sapphire internship report

Sapphire Finishing Mills

Internship Report

By

Arslan Shaukat 05-TE-15

B.Sc Textile Engineering, 5th Semester,

2005-2009

University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University,

Multan

Internship Report - 1 -

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

None, however great can lay claim to absolute originality in any branch of knowledge. No one can deny it. Every one is indebted to their precursors in the particular field in which they are working. I am indebted to many individuals within my branch of knowledge and outside it. At first, I am grateful to Almighty ALLAH, The most Beneficent and Merciful, Who gave us mind to think and all physical abilities to work out problems and obstacles faced in life, and for giving us enough courage and commitment to complete this internship successfully. At Sapphire, we found people very cooperative. During our internship in Sapphire we learnt a lot and found it as an excellent learning place. I am very thankful to Mr. Tariq Jameel who allowed me to work under his supervision. At this place I would also like to thank Mr. Shahzad Qamar for his guidance and warm support throughout the internship period. I would also like to thank Mr. Salman Zulqadar, Mr. Nadir, Mr. Zia-U-Din, Mr. Ghaffar, Mr. Habib Ullah for helping me through thick and thin and guiding me in best possible way. I would specially like to thank Mr. Hafeez and Mr. Mumtaz for taking keen interest to help me out in problems. With best wishes and regards, Arslan Shaukat B.Sc Textile Engineering, 5th Semester (2005-2009), University College of Textile Engineering, BZU, Multan

University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan


HISTORY OF SAPPHIRE GROUP

The foundation of Sapphire Group was laid by four brothers named as Shahid Abdullah, Nadeem Abdullah, Aamir Abdullah and Yousuf Abdullah. Mr. Muhammad Abdullah is the Chief Executive of Sapphire Group. The conceptualization of the Sapphire was started until 1960 in East Bangal. However, the first Sapphire’s spinning mill was planted in 1970. Sapphire Electric Company is being started in December 2009. Until now, there are 24 units in Sapphire Group.

DIVISIONS OF SAPPHIRE GROUP Spinning Units 11 Weaving Units 3 Processing units 4

(1 for woven, 1 for knits, 1 for fiber dyeing, 1 for yarn dyeing)

Stitching Units 2 (1 for knits, 1 for home textiles)

Power Generation Units 3



SAPPHIRE FINISHING MILLS Sapphire Finishing Mills is a woven dyeing and finishing plant of Sapphire group. It started production in 2003. The machinery here is most modern and updated made by leading textile machinery manufacturers. The combination of machinery and strong professional experience has enabled Sapphire make state of the art finished fabric. Sapphire has currently geared up to produce 2.73 million meters of quality dyed and finished apparel fabric per month. It is also catering to the ever-growing demand of bottom weight fabric in narrow width upto 70%. The area of Sapphire Finishing Mills is about 67 Acres. COMPANY PROFILE Chairman: Mr. Mohammad Abdullah Chief Executive: Mr. Muhammad Yousuf Abdullah General Manager: Mr. Azhar Naseem Pasha Processing Manager: Mr. Tariq Jamil Total number employees of Sapphire group: 12500 Total no. of employees in SFM: 800 Total managerial staff: 70 Monthly production Achieved: 3 million meters Monthly production Target: 4.5 million meters Normally, cost/ meter for processing: 15-20 rupees Email: [email protected] Website: www.sapphire.com.pk Mills Location: 3.5 km Manga Raiwind Road, Kasur Head Office: 7-A/K, Main Boulevard, Gulburg ΙΙ, Lahore

(Pakistan)


mailto:[email protected]

http://www.sapphire.com.pk/


MISSION STATEMENT “THERE ARE NO SHORT-CUTS TO LONG-TERM SUCCESS” To build flexible manufacturing capabilities in the textile industry to cater to the growing and evolving global demands, keeping a lead position in our business, maintaining our values based on good business ethics, and at the same time to contribute in the development of the community in which we work and live in. Why more Quality at Sapphire?

Quality lab is equipped to conduct all type of tests in accordance with American & European testing standards.

Complete range of testing equipment from James H Heal & Atlas is available in lab.

Some of the properties for which fabric is tested in house are strength, light fastness, pilling, abrasion, color fastness, crocking, stretch & durability press rating.

MANAGEMENT The management of Sapphire Finishing Mills is divided into 4 departments, which work under the supervision of Director. Their respective managers manage these departments

1. Manager Administration 2. Chief Accountant 3. G.M Plant 4. DGM Marketing

Further, these departments are divided into sub-departments, which are managed by their respective managers. Like production department,

1. Manager engineering 2. Manager processing

Marketing management,

1. Area wise (6 Managers) 2. Customer Wise



AREAS OF WORK DURING OUR INTERNSHIP During our internship at Sapphire Finishing Mills Ltd., we work on the following areas of different departments.

1. GREIGE INPUT Process Flow Inspection Procedures Introduction Of Faults And Samples Issuance Lab Testing

2. PRETREATMENT

Process Flow Machine & Steamers Specifications Block diagrams of Machine Procedures For Each Process And Machine Chemical Recipies Testing and Chemical Titration

3. DYEING

Process Flow and Machine Specifications Block Diagrams Of Machines Procedures For Each Process And Machine Machine Conditions Testing + Online Testing Process Types And Conditions

4. FINISHING

Process Flow+ Machine Specifications And Usage Line Diagrams Of Machine Chemicals And Their Usage+ Chemical Making Machine Conditions Testing + Online Testing

5. FOLDING

Inspection system and Inspection Procedure Packing & Labeling and Storage

6. QUALITY CONTROL

Shading Online Inspection Online Testing Inspection

7. TECHNICAL LAB

8. UTILITY



DEPARTMENT WISE LAYOUT

GREIGE INPUT

PRETREATMENT

DYEING

FINISHING

FOLDING/PACKING



PRODUCTION SHED LAYOUT



GREIGE INPUT DEPARTMENT



GREY INPUT DEPARTMENT It is the first department in the textile-processing mill. It is called Greige Department because greige fabric (from weaving mill) is first brought in this department. As the cloth is received from weaving mills, it is given a “lot” number and other data in the receiving register. A computer record of the received cloth is made and the cloth is stored according to the lot number. Lot number and quality of fabric along with the supplier name are mentioned on the LOT STATUS CARD.

When Production and Planning Department requires the specific quality and type of fabric, the desired quality and type of fabric is issued to the production department. TYPES OF PACKAGES The woven fabric comes in three types of packages which are as follows;

1. Bale form 2. Roll form 3. Palette form

These three types of packages differ in length, shape and type of packing. The outermost layer of the packing is composed of polypropylene sheet and under it is polythene sheet.



INSPECTION OF GREY CLOTH Before the loom state or greige cloth is set for processing it has to go through a number of inspections which would help to overcome any defects and faults caused by inefficient weaving or mishandling of fabric during its course of life from Weaving shed to Processing zone. The greige cloth is inspected at two places

1. In weaving unit after weaving 2. In processing unit before processing

The purpose of inspections is the detection of faults and their removal (incase the faults are mendable) caused by inefficient spinning or weaving and mishandling of the fabric during the period from weaving to processing zone. It also help to estimate the fabric quality and grade and it also assists to consider the possible difficulties, which may come during the processing of the fabric.

SAMPLES OF DIFFERENT FABRIC QUALITIES



DEFECTS IN GREIGE FABRIC The defects in the greige or loom state fabric can be divided into the following categories.

1) Spinning faults

2) Weaving faults

a) Mechanical faults

b) Material Faults

3) Handling faults

Faults can also be divided according to their mend ability. 1. Mendable Faults 2. Non-mendable faults

SPINNING FAULTS Those faults, which are caused due to improper spinning e.g.

Fat yarn Slubby yarn Thick yarn Thin yarn Uneven linear density Count variation Over or under twisted Mixed yarn Contaminated yarn

WEAVING FAULTS The faults in the fabric, which are caused due to inefficient weaving

Short pick Miss pick Double pick Short end Loose end Reed marks Starting mark.

HANDLING FAULTS These faults become the part of fabric during its weaving, transportation and storage e.g.

Water stains Color stains Oil stains Soil stains Holes



GREY INPUT DEPARTMENT OF SFML Greige Department Incharge: - Mr. Javed The greige department can be summarized under following headings:

1) Purpose 2) Layout & Machines 3) Process Flow 4) Receiving 5) Sampling 6) Inspection 7) Introduction Of Faults 8) Quality Of Fabric 9) Storing 10) Issuance 11) Lab Testing

1. PURPOSE OF GREIGE DEPARTMENT The purposes of the greige department are

1. Receiving 2. Inspection 3. Storage 4. Issuance

Initially the fabric from all customers received here. Before it is stored, inspection is done and results from QC Lab are considered. If the inspection results of greige and quality control lab are satisfactory then it is stocked by given its all identifications, i.e., lot no., bin no. type of fabric total no of meters etc. and then according to the queries from PPC, fabric is issued.



2. LAYOUT OF GREIGE DEPARTMENT

1- Office 2- Rolling machine 3- Inspection frames 4- Storage bins 5- Unrolling machines 6- Receiving gates 7- Entrance from pretreatment

MACHINE USED IN GREIGE DEPARTMENT Inspection Frames No. of machines: 5 Company: AL-HADDID ENGINEERING

WORKS Made in: Faisalabad, PAKISTAN. Three of them are in use. Rolling Machine No. of machines: 01 Company: Hsing Cheng Model: HC-EW-2000mm-A8931-1 Made in: TAIWAN Un-rolling Machine No. of machines 02 Company: Hsing Cheng Model: HC-gim-2000mm-A8931-2 Made in: TAIWAN



3. PROCESS FLOW

Merchandiser

Greige department Q.C Lab. Customer satisfaction

Order of Fabric

Receiving

Greige Department

Whole Inspection

Whole Treatment

Prepared Sample to Customer

Accepted or Rejected

Q.C Lab.

Send to Stock

PPC

Pretreatment

Status Card

Unrolling Issuance of Fabric as per PP

Rolling

Inspection

Lot No. and Bin No. Given

Sample From Weaving

Procurement Manager

Customer



4. RECEIVING OF FABRIC First the fabric conducts into greige department, gate pass and list of packing is provided by the supplier for greige department. This list contains the whole information about fabric inside packing. It will be in the form of bales, rolls and pallet. Then bales and roles are counted measured and tally with the packing list. After clearance bin and lot no are allotted. RECEIVING REPORT Lot no.

Contract no.

Quality Width Weave Blend Su

pp

lier

No. of

B/R

Lo

t Len

gth

Receiving report prepared against packing list is sent to marketing department. Here contract no is given to this report and sent back to greige department.



RECEIVING REPORT Lot received 10 JULY 2007

Lot no.

Contract no. Quality Width Weave Blend Supplier

No. of

B/R

Lot Length (mtr)

3013 O/NA/290/07 20*16+70d, 128*60

67” H.B CTN +LYCRA

DFL 23 R 9164

3014 O/SP/5864/07 16*12 ,105*56

63” 3/1 satin CTN DFL 01 361

3015 O/SP/6034/07 16+156dtex+16*10+10+112dt

ex

67” 4/1 satin CTN DFL 02 432

3016 C/Eu/1277/07 40*50+40d , 200*138

80” Dobby CTN+ LYCRA

DFL 59 R 10082

3017 C/Eu/1276/07 50*40+40+40d , 183*190

69” 4/1 satin CTN+ LYCRA

DFL 98 R 25970

3018 O/FE/606/07 21*202 , 118*55

63” 3/1 satin CTN Fatima 2 B 1000

3019 O/BB/169/07 10*6 ,64*48 67” 2/2 satin CTN DFL 12 P 17025 3020 O/Eu/1317/ 07 30cm*24cm+70

d , 121*73.5 74” Dobby CTN+

LYCRA DFL 8 P 14805

3021 C/Eu/1306/07 24cm(SL)+24cd*20cdSL+ 70d+20cd+70d ,102*66

74.2” Dobby CTN+ LYCRA

DFL 7 P 10158

3022 C/Eu/1316/07 20cd*20cd+70d , 104*68.5

69” Dobby CTN+ LYCRA

DFL 7 P 10550

3023 O/sp/6047/07 8SL*10SL+40d ,67*54

67” 3/1 Z-twill

CTN+ LYCRA

DFL 1 70

3024 O/LM/1940/ 07

16*10 , 108*56

63” 2/2 Mat CTN DFL 29 R+1P

9512

3025 / / / 07 40*40 , 120*110

63” 1/1 plain CTN Masood

13 R 4109

3026 O/SA/308/07 40*40 ,120*110

63” 1/1 plain CTN MTM 18 R 4488



SUPPLIERS OF FABRIC FOR SFML

Ahmed Fine Masood Fabrics Roomi Fabrics Dimond Fabrics Ltd. Fazal Rehman Nishat Weaving Shafi Textiles Fatima Enterprises Sapphire Textiles Mills

5. SAMPLING When a lot is received in greige, samples are taken for Q.C lab and one for greige record also. Length of sample is usually 1-1.5 meters. No. of samples taken depends on type, quality and length of the fabric received.

1. For lycra-cotton, blend 6-8 samples are taken. Usually from 2500-3000 meter length, one sample is taken. If lot length is greater, we can take one sample from 5000 meters.

2. For pure cotton of coarser count (upto 8-20Ne) only two samples are taken. One sample for lab testing and other for greige record. Sample siz is 4/3 meter.

3. For fine cotton, samples equal to cotton-lycra blend are taken.

6. INSPECTION The fabric comes in SFML is A grade as a whole so Inspection of about 10 to 15% of whole fabric takes place in greige department. Inspection percentage may vary depending upon the quantity of fabric. If the amount of fabric is less then inspection percentage may increases from 10% to 50%. There are five inspection frame out of which 3 in working form. The main purpose of inspection is to count faults in type of fabric. In sapphire finishing mills 4 point grading system is used for inspection of fabric. 4 Point System

Length of fault Points 1-3 inches 1 3-6 inches 2 6-9 inches 3 9- above 4



This is called four point American systems. This system is considered as a best grading system all over the world. It was developed to create an understanding between customer and supplier. Average Point: Average point is calculated by following formula. (Total Points) X (3937) Total Average Points Per 100 Meter2 (Total length in Meters) X (Width) (Total Points) X 3600 Total Average Points Per 100 Yards2 (Total length in Meters) X (Width) Based on above calculation inspection report is prepared. If fabric contains fault less then 15 or equal to 15 faults /100m2 then it considers as ok or pass. If 18 faults/100m2 are detected in fabric then it is under discussion. If more then 18 points are found/100m2

then it is rejected and tagged as hold or rejected.

Inspection frame

Daily Inspection Report Then daily inspection report is made in which total fabric inspected, total faults, faults per 100m2, rejection or acceptance of fabric in the whole day is written and then feed it into the computer.



6. FAULTS IN GREIGE FABRIC These faults are discussed in detail here as

1. Yarn faults 2. Mechanical faults 3. Mending faults

1. YARN FAULTS

1. Contamination In fabric any material other then the fiber of fabric is called contamination. Mainly polypropylene, hair, jute etc. are some common contaminations. 2. Cockled yarn Fluff or any material pressed by machine in warp more end is called cockled yarn. It forms hard surface. 3. Color variation Due to the variation in the lot used in weaving. At some places color is found different than the actual one. Some times, it is due to the variation in the color of raw material used for yarn formation. 4. Oily weft When weft or pick yarn is oily then it is called oily weft. 5. Black end When end or warp is black may be due to oil is called black end. 6. Count variation In this case warp or weft may be thick or thin then the count shown in the construction. In this case cloudy like appearance occurs. 7. Short end Any warp or end may be missing.



8. Double end

In this case, double yarn is found in end or warps rather then the single one. 9. Miss pick Any pick or weft may be missing. 10. Double pick Double yarn in pick or weft is missing.

2. MECHANICAL FAULTS

1. Short miss pick

If pick or weft is missing at any point than it is called short miss pick. 2. Short double pick

In this case two yarns in pink are found for short distance. 3. Starting mark

When loom stops and then restarts it gives a stain (crease) on fabric in weft angle. 4. Wrapping mark It is just like starting mark but here surface become very hard on weft side. 5. Oil stain It is the spot of oil in circular shape and mostly yellowish in color. 6. Kinks

When new yarn is knocked either on warp or weft side it is pressed and become hard and swollen.



7. Loose ends

Warp or end comes out of fabric and not properly stitched, so it does not look straight and forms in zig zag way. 8. Sizing Stain

It is like oily stain but more opaque than oily stain.

3. MENDING FAULTS

1. Hanging thread Any thread hanging in the fabric is called hanging thread.

2. Mending Mark

If slub is taken out or kink is pulled out then a space appears in fabric and called mending fault.

3. Courses pick

One thick pick or weft is called course pick.

7. QUALITY OF FABRIC (CONSTRUCTION) Lets for example, 20*16+70D/120*54-67//

Here 20 and 16 are count number on warp and weft side of fabric respectively. Count no is a Japanese system, which depends upon the weight of warp or weft yarn. 70D is elastic material quantity (D= denier) which depends upon Lycra thickness as 40D is less thick then 70D. Here 16+70D means 70D lycra+ cotton blended on weft or pick side. no of warp per square inches and no. of weft per square inches is 54. 67// is the total width of fabric including selvedge. SELVEDGE Selvedge is present on both sides of fabric. It is strong hard and saves fabric from the pressure of stitching during processing.



It is of two types

• Leno (L): It has free yarns on weft. • Tuck-in: It has not free yarns on ends.

8. STORAGE OF FABRIC Re-Rolling After inspection, the whole fabric is re-rolled and put in the respective bin. Storage conditions

Fabric must be kept in dry place and away from rain, tog, acid, base, oil, and all other fiber damaging material.

Storage Capacity

Storage capacity of department is 6 to 7 lack meters. Bales or roles are placed up to 7 feet height approximately.

Identification

If we want to find any type of fabric we have to see the stock report. On the wall bin number and in front of each lot its lot number shade total meters etc. (STATUS CARD) are attached, so that it is identified easily. Status Card It is attached at one bale or roll in front of whole lot. It contains the lot number, construction (quality), and number of pieces, total meter, selvage type, party name, or textile mill name. Production planning (P.P.) Production planning comes from PPC department to greige department. It tells about the construction ,lot number, number of meters etc. so, according to PPC lot is taken out, then roles are un-rolled and fabric is stitched and loaded on trolleys having an identity number. During stitching keep in mind that stitching of different rolls should be on the same side so, front to front, and back to back.



Stock Report It contains the whole information related to stock in greige department. It tells us the total number of lot, types of construction, weave type, contract number, supplier, total bales and roles, meters etc. 9. ISSUANCE According to PPC the fabric is issued. Daily issuance report contains the whole issuance record of the day. It also shows the balance and then it is fed in the computer, at the end side of report C or O is written which means commercial or own respectively. Then fabric is send to pretreatment department with its route card which contains the whole information of process which should be done on fabric. Unrolling Fabric from the store is un rolled with the unrolling machine in the trolley, before issuance. Stitching Procedure Stitching machine is used for this purpose. Two yarns are used for stitching in this stitching machine. During stitching keep in mind that front of fabric will stitch on the same side of other fabric. Also on every fabric piece, its quality and quantity is written by textile marker. Its ink is not removed during pretreatment process.

Documents At the grey store following documents are prepared and maintained,

1. Daily receiving report 2. Daily inspection report 3. Daily Issuance report 4. Stock report 5. Fabric transfer report 6. Route cards (provided by R&D) 7. Production plan (provided by PPC) 8. Fabric transfer report



PRETREATMENT DEPARTMENT

Pretreatment Incharge Mr. Zia-U-Din



INTRODUCTION The pretreatment stage includes a series of operation to prepare the textile product for subsequent processes such as dyeing, printing and finishing. These operations vary according to

Type of fabric on which they have to be carried out

The structure of textile material (staple ,sliver ,yarn, fabric)

Also depend upon subsequent treatment to be carried out, which may change according to various factors such as

Market demand Customer requirement Staff experience Availability of machines

Pretreatment operations are also regarded as pre-dyeing stages. Pre-Dyeing Stages includes Singeing, Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching And Mercerization. Some of these operations are considered as preliminary operation or finishing treatments. Besides uniform and high degree of absorption, the textile material should have adequate degree of whiteness. Usually 70-80% whiteness is the target. TARGETS OF PRETREATMENT OPERATION

A good preparation is necessary for the production of quality product; also, the prepared substrate should meet the following targets

• High degree of whiteness (60o-65o for dying & 70-75o for white)

• Absorbency should be good and uniform • Neutral pH of the substrate or pH as per required for

dyeing • Complete removal of all kinds of impurities • Minimum loss of the properties of material • Complete removal of chemicals used in pre-treatment • Material should be treated evenly throughout the lot



IMPURITIES IN THE FABRIC

Approx. 4 % Upto 10 % Upto 20 %

Fats Oils Waxes Abraded

metal

Fibre impurities Hemi- cellulose Pectins Proteins Seed husks Colored substances Salts

Size

MACHINES FOR PRETREATMENT IN SFML The pretreatment plant consists upon three portions; 1- Perble Pretreatment Range 2- Mercerizing Machines 3- Osthoff – senge STAGES IN PRE-TREATMENT

The major operations involved in the pre-treatments of fabric at PERBLE are mentioned as; STAGES OBJECTIVE PROCESS Singeing/Shearing Removal of projecting fibers By Burning/ Cutting Desizing Removal of starches By Extraction Scouring Removal of Natural/Artificial

impurities By Extraction

Bleaching To provide whiteness By oxidizing Mercerization To increase luster &

Absorbency By Swelling



SINGEING Singeing treatment is done to burn off the fuzz and fibre ends in order to highlight the fabric weave. Singeing is generally done by passing the fabric through a burning flame at a high speed followed by quenching in water or desizing bath to extinguish the smoldering fibers. After singeing the fibers that protrude from the fabric are burnt away to give the fabrics a smoother surface. And on the other hand some fabrics are valued for there smoothness. Singeing is almost essential for goods intended for printing. OBJECTIVES OF SINGEING OF WOVEN FABRICS

1. Surface hair help to entrap air in the fabric when immersed in water it takes longer for water to enter the fabric since it must first displace the air. Singeing therefore helps to increase fabric wet ability.

2. It creates a smooth surface for printing. It may be possible to print fine details on a hairy surface but once the hair move again after printing, fine details becomes fuzzy.

3. To emphasize the woven structure of the fabric if that is considered desirable.

4. To prevent from a frosty appearance after dyeing. The projecting dyed hairs give the fabric surface the appearance of being poor than rest the body of the fabric.

5. To prevent or minimize the tendency of blend fabrics to form Pills. Pills are the little balls of the Fiber that arise on the surface of some fabrics because of abrasion that occur during Usage.

FABRIC SAMPLES

Extreme care should be taken when singeing fabric containing thermoplastic fibers in order to avoid dyeing problems. The thermoplastic fibers such as polyester melt when singed and fiber ends form beads on fabric surface. Therefore, pure polyester is not signed as these beads have greater dye affinity than the polyester fiber.



TYPES OF SINGEING Following are the types of singeing

1. Plate singeing 2. Roller singeing 3. Gas singeing (present at SFM)

SINGEING POSITIONS

Three positions for singeing are used depending upon the fabric quality:

1. Singeing “onto the free-guided fabric” 2. Singeing “onto a water-cooled roller” 3. Tangential singeing position

In Sapphire, there are two type of singeing machines

1. OSTHOFF singeing 2. Perble singeing

OSTHOFF SINGEING MACHINE

COMPANY Osthoff –senge 42327 Wuppertal, Germany

YEAR OF MANUFACTURING 2006 MODEL VP 99/H SERIAL # 6899



Singeing Zone

Control Panel OSTHOFF-SENGE



PARTS OF MACHINE The OSTHOFF machine consists of the following major parts, Entrance Zone Entrance zone consists of different free and stationary guide rollers to guide the fabric and to open its width. Cloth Guiders Cloth guiders are used to guide the cloth to its respective position and to open the width of the fabric by removing any creases present in the fabric. Pneumatic pressure is used to operate these guiders. In Sapphire cloth guiders of ELTWIN are installed on the OSTHOFF. Drying Cylinders

These are two large surface polished drums, which are heated internally by steam. These drums are used to dry the moisture gained by the fabric during storage.

The upper heating cylinder is motor driven and lower one is fabric driven. 1st Brushing Zone In the brushing chamber two brushes are used to remove any loose thread/yarn, fluff and to raise the fibers so these can easily be burnt off. The brushed-off fluff or threads are then taken away from the chamber by a suction fan. Specifications for 1st brushing chamber

No. of brushing rolls 2 No. of motors 2 Brushing Roll Speed 120

Singeing Zone Singeing zone consists of two burners. Burners singe the fabric from both sides (face and back). LPG or natural gas+air mixture is used as fuel. Flame intensity is adjusted according to the quality of the fabric. It is observed that singeing is carried on freely moving



fabric at 90o. Exhaust fan is used to remove burnt gases and ashes from the chamber.

2nd Brushing Zone Brushing zone consists of two brushing rollers and each brushing roller comprises 3 brushing piles. The purpose of this zone is to remove burnt projecting fibers and fire sparks. A suction fan is used to remove the burnt fibers from the brushing chamber. Desizing saturators After brushing, the fabric is guided to the desizing saturators. In this machine, usually enzymatic desizing is carried out. There are two desizing saturators in osthoff senge. In each desizing trough, seven top rolls and 8 bottom rolls are there. Top rolls are driven by 3 motors and bottom rolls are fabric driven. As fabric exits from the saturators, it is squeezed out by padder to remove excess amount of desizing liquor. The temperature of each saturator is 80oC . DESIZING RECIPE

Quantities (g/l) Chemicals

Functions For light

wt. cotton

For medium

Wt. cotton

For heavy wt.

cotton

Desizer JRL α-amylase/enzyme 0.5 0.75 1 Rocogen WBL

Wetting agent 1 1.5 2

Rocowet VL detergent 1 1.5 2 Sirrix Antox 1 1.5 2 Actic Acid pH 5-6 pH 5-6 pH 5-6



Important Instructions

1. For PC and Pc lycra, always use recipe 2. Do complete m/c cleaning once in 24 hours from 7-9 am in

morning 3. Prepare new desizing saturator after 15000 meters. 4. Do not use torn polythene for wrapping of desized batcher. 5. During batcher rotation, rpm should be 12-15 max. 6. Downtime during batcher change should not be more than 5

minutes. BATCH MAKING

After desizing batch of the fabric is prepared and covered with ploythene bag and rotated for 6-8 hrs. Then further processed on PERBLE RANGE.



LINE DIAGRAM OF OSTHOFF-SENGE



MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS

Steam pressure in Drying rollers 0.2 bar Temp. of steam cylinder 100-105oC 1st brushing zone 2 brushing rollers Brushing angle 3-5 (from the fabric surface) Singeing zone 2 burner (ceramic) Flame intensity 13-23 mbar Gas used for singeing LPG or Natural gas Air Gas mixture ratio 65-35 Flame Length 40-70 mm Flame distance 10-30 mm 2nd brushing zone 2 rollers (contain piles, driven by separate motor) Fabric speed 90-180m/min Saturator temp 70-80oC Saturator liquor capacity 1000 liter Saturator fabric capacity 13-15 mtrs Squeezing pressure 1st 2.51bar, 2nd 0.9-1.0 bar Pressure on batcher 3.2 MPa Batcher Capacity 3000-5000m Rpm of Batcher 10-12 Time for batch rotation 6-8 hrs Steam pressure in Drying rollers 0.2 bar 1st brushing zone 2 rollers (brush shape flat, driven by separate motor) Brushing angle 3-5 (from the fabric surface) Singeing zone 2 burner (ceramic) Flame intensity 8-23 mbar Flame distance 10-30 mm 2nd brushing zone 2 rollers (contain piles, driven by separate motor) Fabric speed 90-150m/min Saturator temperature 75-85oC Saturator water capacity 900 liters Saturator fabric capacity 13-15 mtrs Squeezing pressure 1st 2.51 bar, 2nd 0.9-1.0 bar



PRETREATMENT PLANT IN SAPPHIRE FINISHING MILLS NAME Perble Pretreatment Range MODEL 2002 MANUFACTURER Sando Iron Works, Japan OPERATIONAL WIDTH 200cm (70-80 inches) MAXIMUM OPERATIONAL SPEED 150 m/min



PROCESS FLOW AT PERBLE RANGE

FABRIC INPUT

DRYING

BRUSHING

SINGEING

QUENCHING

OPTIONAL EXIT

4 WASHING BOXES

DESIZING SATURATOR

DESIZING STEAMER

3 WASHING BOXES

SCOURING SATURATOR

SCOURING STEAMER


Internship Report


- 37 -

5 WASHING BOXES

CHLORITE SATURATOR

CHLORITE STEAMER

5 WASHING BOXES

H2O2 SATURATOR

H2O2 STEAMER

WASHERS

DRYING CYLINDERS

EXIT

MERCERIZING

WASHING & NEUTRALIZING

DRYING CYLINDERS

EXIT


GAS SINGEING AT PERBLE RANGE The PERBLE Singeing Machine assembled by Sando, Japan has the four burning flame with variable/ adjustable flam intensity and flame width. The machine has good results just because of its four fire flames and their adjustable intensity, which gives the best singeing results in minimum flame to fabric time. PARTS OF MACHINE

Fabric Entry

Fabric entry comprises of different free and stationary guide rollers, to guide the fabric and to open its width.

Metal Detector A Metal detector is there to sense the presence of the iron particles and to stop the machine if any iron particles are found to prevent damage of machine. Cloth Guiders Cloth guiders are used to guide cloth to its respective position and to open the width of the fabric by removing any creases present in the fabric. Pneumatic pressure is used to operate these guiders.



Drying Cylinders There are two large surface polished drums which are heated internally by steam. These drums are used to dry the moisture gained by the fabric during storage.

Brushing Chamber In the brushing chamber six brushes are used to remove any lose thread/yarn, fluff and raise the fibers so these can be burnt off easily. The brushed off fluff or threads are taken away from the chamber by a suction fan. Singeing Zone Singeing zone consists of two burners. Burners singe the fabric from both sides (face and back). LPG or natural gas+air mixture is used as fuel. Flame intensity can be adjusted according to the quality of the fabric. Fresh water is circulated in the burner jacket and in the singeing cylinders to remove the extra heat and to prevent form fire risk. Exhaust fan is used to remove hot air and burnt fibers from the chamber.



Quenching Box (Pull out mangle) This box contains water. Fabric coming out of the singeing chamber is passed through this water to lower the temperature of the fabric and to extinguish any sparks.

Squeezing Rollers Fabric is passed through the nip of the two squeezing rollers. Lower roller is run by motor, upper roller is rubber coated and is pressed against the lower roller by pneumatic pressure to squeeze out the water and to ensure even uptake.



FLAME INTENSITY The flame intensity is can be controlled by the changing the speed of air feeding motor, the single pipe of air is divide into four pipes and feed to the burner, for this purpose separate valves are provided for each burner, The inlet pressures are as mentioned against their functional key, FLAME SELECT AIR PRESSURE (KPA) HZ F1 100 23 F2 150 27 F3 200 30 F4 250 34 F5 300 37 F6 350 37.5 Low Combustion 50 19

Fine qualities and qualities with lycra are singed usually at the pressure of 150 kpa where as medium and heavy qualities are singed at the pressure of 250 kpa-300 kpa. MACHINE SPECIFICATION Fuel LPG+Air Mixing Ratio 1:3-1:4 Total # of burners 4 Drying roller 0.13 MPa (maximum capacity 0.198 MPa) Brushing zone 6 rollers (brush of spiral shape, driven by one Motor) Brushing angle 0.5(from the fabric surface, fixed) Flame distance 10-50 mm Flame width 1250 to 2000 mm (40 to 80 inches). Burners 4 burners (silica alloy) Burner turn speed 45 M/min Fabric speed:- Machine is usually run at 50-60 m/min for heavy qualities and 70-80 m/min for light qualities and for lycra too Quenching box:- 4 rollers squeezing pressure:- 0-0.5Mpa (normally used 0.15 Mpa)



Block diagram of section A

SINGEING DEFECTS

The most common singeing faults are:

1. Uneven singeing effect a. Across the fabric width b. Along the fabric length c. In the form of horizontal and/or vertical stripe.

2. Thermal damage of the fabric or individual fiber types within the fabric.

1. Uneven singeing effect (Across the fabric width)

The uneven singeing effect across the fabric width may be caused by:

1. An uneven distribution of the mixture of gases in the burner, i.e. by an uneven energy content of singeing flames.

2. An uneven moisture content of the fabric. 3. Uneven smoke evacuation. 4. Inaccurate adjustment of the guide rollers which determines

the position of the fabric in relation to the burner may also cause irregular singeing effect across the fabric width.

5. Inaccurate distance between the Flame and fabric surface.

2. Uneven singeing effect (Along the fabric length)

The main cause of irregular singeing effects along length:

1. Variations in fabric speed during the singeing process caused by defective drive mechanisms also impair the singeing effects, as the effect is determined by the speed when the flame is constant.

2. Variation in the moisture content between the beginning and end of the length of fabric may also cause irregular singeing effects.



3. Uneven singeing effect (Horizontal or Vertical Stripes)

Horizontal singed stripes may cause due to:

1. Constantly alteration in the distance between the fabric and burner.

2. By sudden increase in tension of drawn fabric due to sudden change in speed of drawn- off.

4. Thermal Damage Singeing faults caused by thermal damage are as much more serious matters, as they extremely difficult to recognize and are permanent. Pre-Wash boxes After the squeezing padder, the fabric goes to a series of four washing boxes called pre-wash boxes where fabric is impregnated in hot water for the removal of the burnt fiber ash from the surface of the fabric and to soften the size material. There are four pre wash boxes. Their temperatures are given below

First box is 55-60°C Second and third boxes are at 95-97°C Fourth box is again cold

Each box has a fabric capacity of 11-12 meter and fabric passes through the alternative top and bottom rollers and gets several dips in water. At the exit, fabric is showered with water and then squeezed by padder at pressure of two tons. Steam is supplied to washers to heat up the water.



DESIZING The Desizing treatment is carried out on woven fabric to remove the sizing substance from the warp yarn. The size must be totally eliminated since the fabric must absorb the liquor of subsequent processes homogeneously. Nature of Sizing material Sizing materials are mostly hydrophobic in nature and prevents the yarn and fabric from wetting quickly and results in very poor pickup of fabric. Types of Sizes There are two types of sizes;

• Water insoluble sizes • Water soluble sizes

Water-soluble sizes can be easily washed out by hot water. Starch is also common in sizing formulations. It is not very soluble in water so, it is removed chemically by degradation. All size formulation contains lubricants derived from synthetic or natural sources like fats and waxes. These lubricants are much difficult to remove then the size itself. Fabric containing only water soluble sizes can be desized by using hot water containing wetting agent and mild alkali. OBJECTIVE OF DESIZING

1. To eliminate the water repellent nature of sized cloth 2. To increase the absorbency 3. To reduce the consumption of chemicals in subsequent

process

DESIZING TECHNIQUES

Desizing technique used in the Sapphire Finishing Mills is

• Pad batch (on OSTHOFF-SENGE) • Continuous (on PERBLE RANGE)



DESIZING PROCESS Desizing, involves impregnation of the fabric with the desizing agent, allowing the desizing agent to degrade or solubilize the size material, and finally to wash out the degradation products. There are many types and ways of removing size material. Some of them are listed below;

Enzymatic Desizing Acid Desizing Oxidative Desizing Desizing with warm water (in case of CMC)

But the major desizing processes in practice at Sapphire Finishing Mills are as given:

• Enzymatic desizing • Oxidative desizing

Enzymatic Desizing Enzymatic desizing is the classical desizing process of degrading starch size on cotton fabrics using enzymes. Enzymes are complex organic, soluble bio-catalysts, formed by living organisms that catalyze chemical reaction in biological processes. Enzymes are quite specific in their action on a particular substance. A small quantity of enzyme is able to decompose a large quantity of the substance it acts upon. Enzymes are usually named by the kind of substance degraded in the reaction it catalyzes. The enzymes generally employed for desizing are:

• α – amylase • β – amylase • Amyloglucosidase

Amylase is the enzyme that hydrolyses and reduced the molecular weight of amylose and amylopectin molecules in starch, rendering it water soluble enough to be washed off the fabric. Effective enzymatic desizing requires strict control of

pH temperature water hardness electrolyte addition choice of surfactant



Enzyme sources are either from animal origin (slaughter house waste – pancreas, clotted blood, liver etc.), vegetable origin (malt extract – made from germinated barley), and bacterial (produced by growing cultures of certain micro organisms). Bacterial enzymes are preferred because of their activity over a wider pH range and tolerance to variations in pH. Since desizing is carried out on grey fabric, which is essentially non-absorbent, a wetting and penetrating agent is incorporated into the desizing liquor. Wetting agent employed during desizing has to meet the following requirements;

High Wetting power

Compatibility with Enzyme

High Emulsifying and Dispersing power

Low foam formation CHEMISTRY OF ENZYMATIC DESIZING The chemistry of desizing is simply hydrolysis of insoluble starch polymer into water soluble glucose in which the de-polymerization of 1, 4 – glucosidal linkage of the starch takes place. The process can be schematically represented as:

INSOLUBLE STARCH POLYMER

SOLUBLE GLUCOSE MONOMER

DESIZING



At Sapphire Finishing Mills enzymatic desizing is carried out for fine quality fabrics to prevent any damage to fabric in case of oxidative desizing. Continuous desizing consists of application of the enzyme solution and digestion period to allow the hydrolysis to take place.

PROCESS OF ENZYMATIC DESIZING The steps of enzymatic desizing are as follows;

1. Before impregnation the fabric is squeezed by a padder at

pressure of 7/7 tons, padder not only squeezes extra water but also ensure the even pick up of chemicals

2. After fourth pre-washer, fabric goes to the desizing saturator,

where it is impregnated with enzymatic desizing chemicals. These chemicals are prepared usually in tanks installed at the back of machine but these can also be prepared in saturator.

3. Saturator is usually small in size than the washers usually

contains 600 liters. water and 9 meter fabric. It has no heating arrangement.

4. Fabric after the impregnation and squeezing goes to the

desizing steamer, Recipe of enzymatic desizing is given earlier and steaming conditions are as given below.



DESIZING RECIPE FOR PERBLE

Quantities (g/l) Chemicals

Functions For light

wt. cotton

For medium

Wt. cotton

For heavy wt.

cotton

Desizer JRL α-amylase/enzyme 0.5 0.75 1 Rocogen WBL

Wetting agent 1 1.5 2

Rocowet VL Detergent 1 1.5 2 Sirrix Antox 1 1.5 2 Actic Acid pH 5-6 pH 5-6 pH 5-6 Streamer specifications Fabric Capacity 77 m Temperature 90 - 100 °C Time 1 - 2 min pH 6 – 7



OXIDATIVE DESIZING In oxidative desizing, the risk of damage to the cellulosic fibres is very high, and its use for desizing is increasingly rare. Oxidative desizing is carried out by using some oxidising agents like sodium or potassium persulphates. At sapphire finishing mills oxidative desizing is carried out by using sodium persulphate as an oxidizer.

Starch and cellulose have almost same structures but differ in their composition. That is why when oxidative agent breaks down the long molecular chains of starch polymer to shorter chain, there is probability that oxidative agent will damage the cellulose chain too, and convert it into oxi-cellulose, which will damage fabric or reduce its tear strength. So, we have to use oxidative agent as per requirement according to the quality of fabric. For the oxidative desizing, the oxidizing agent (sodium persulphate) is added at concentration of 5-20 % to the scouring recipe. The liberation of persulphate ions is stabilized in alkaline solution. As caustic soda is used for scouring, it also provides stability to persulphate ions. By the decomposition of oxidizing agent the persulphate ions act on the fabric and break down the starch chains. Purpose of Oxidative Desizing Dwell time required for the enzymatic desizing is hard to achieve by fully continuous process so some sizing material remain on the fabric after desizing chamber. This remaining size is removed by oxidative desizing in scouring chamber. For light count enzymatic and oxidative desizing takes place while for heavy count double oxidative desizing takes place. Conditions In case of oxidative desizing along with scouring the process conditions are as given,

Time 40-45 min Temperature 95-100ºC pH 4-6

After the scouring steamer fabric goes to the washers to wash out the degraded size material.



SCOURING For cotton fabrics, this treatment refers to the removal of impurities (fatty substances, softening motes etc.) by wet treatment so that these impurities do not interfere or disturb the dyeing and finishing process. The amount and types of impurities present depend on the type of fiber in the material. Materials containing only synthetic fibers usually contain only the lubricants, which are added during manufacturing of the material and soil deposited on the material in manufacturing process and handling. OBJECTIVE OF SCOURING

To remove impurities including remaining starches dust soil marks protein waxes & pectin seed coat leaf particles husks etc

make it ready for subsequent process (bleaching, dyeing or printing) with out any resistance or hurdle.

IMPORTANCE OF SCOURING

1. All mentioned impurities present in cloth must be removed in order to avoid the interference with forthcoming processes.

2. Fats prevent the penetration of water and dyestuff to the fabric so they must be removed.

3. Some cotton qualities have very high mineral substances as Ca, Mg, Na, K which rapidly increase the degree of hardness of water when goods passes through the liquor so we have to remove these mineral substances in Scouring.



REMOVAL OF IMPURITIES

1. Removal Of Remaining Size Materials Some sizing material remain on the fabric surface due to improper Desizing which must be removed in scouring process. The sizing material is absorbed by scouring liquor in presence of NaOH and soap.

2. Removal Of Dust There is always some dust on the fabric. NaOH and soap remove the dust.

3. Waxes & Proteins Waxes are high molecular weight compound and react with NaOH to give fatty acids. This process is known as saponification. Protein are broken by NaOH and soap and are converted into soluble product which can be removed by washing.

4. Pectin Materials Pectin material are present in fibers as an impurity which react with NaOH producing formaldhyde which is then converted into Pectic Acid by action of salt which is then removed by washing.

5. Mineral Oil NaOH and Soap remove mineral oils in a process known as Emulsification.

6. Fats, Lubricants & Greasy Materials These materials when react with boiling water and NaOH are saponified and soap is formed Scouring at SFML Scouring at SFML is of continuous type and the machine, which is used for this purpose is known as PERBLE. The PERBLE RANGE machine is the continuous type of scouring having number of washers, which help to remove impurities from the fabric. There are six washing chambers, which just do the washing purposes.



RECEIPE FOR SCOURING CHEMICALS FOR LIGHT

QUALITY FOR HEAVY QUALITY

FOR STEAMER

Castic Soda 80 g/l 40 g/l 80 kg Sodium per Sulphate

18 g/l 9 g/l 40 kg

Cottoclarin BL 5 g/l 5 g/l 1.5 kg Invatex CS 3 g/l 2 g/l 1.3 kg

Ph is maintained at 9-10.5. NaOH is the main scouring agent, which remove fats, waxes and dirt from the fabric. It is the saponification agent, which converts insoluble fatty esters to soluble alcohols and fatty acid salts. COTTOCLARIAN BL is the detergent, which is used as Wetting agent and Soap for the removal of impurities. MAJOR PARTS Scouring Saturator Fabric coming from the washers goes to the scouring saturator where it is impregnated with the scouring chemicals as mentioned above, after impregnation fabric is passed through a padder, which



squeezes out the extra liquor and ensures the even pickup and penetration of liquor. After saturator, fabric goes to the scouring chamber. Scouring Chamber Scouring Chamber can be divided in five Zones;

Entry Zone Gas Phase Zone Boil Off Zone Under Liquor Zone Out Zone

Entry Zone In saturator, the fabric picks the chemical and inter in the scouring chamber. Gas Phase Zone In this portion the temperature of he fabric is uniform by saturator steam otherwise if dry steam is use then the moisture of fabric dry. The temperature of metal inside the chamber is about 140c it mean temperature of metal is very high. Because of this when the fabric is fall on the metal plate immediately layers are produce on the fabric by high temperature of plate. Chemical showering is also done in gas portion. There is a loading plate. Loading Plate There is a loading plate that is use to load the fabric in the chamber and give the complete timing in the chamber. This plate is use to give the full time in the scouring chamber. Boil Off Zone In the boil off portion the fabric is fall on the Conveyor and chemical action is complete on the fabric and remove all the waxes and lubricants by sponification. There are also desizing is done. Under Liquor Zone After showering the liquid of chemical is collect in the base of he chamber this portion is called under liquid portion. The Fabric is dip in this chemical liquid for some time. Dry steam is passed through the under liquor.



Outer Zone In this portion fabric is passed under tension there are a semi padder to squeeze the chemical solution. The beater roller is use to beat the fabric for removal of chemicals to the fabric. STEAMER SPECIFICATION

• Fabric Capacity 4000-6000 meter • Dwell time 35-50 min • Temperature 95-100 °C • Under liquor level 6 ton maximum

Pull out mangle

The fabric is pulled out from the scouring chamber .

Multi cloth Guider

It is use to remove the crease of fabric after scouring chamber. It also provides tension on the weftwise.

Washers After scouring the fabric is passed through the washers so that all chemical are neutralize. Washing is done so that these scouring chemical not create any problem. There are four washing tanks. The parameters of steamer are as given, Block diagram of Perble section B



BLEACHING

Bleaching is the process of degrading the colouring component of textile fibres by oxidation or reduction to obtain a white substrate. BLEACHING PROCESS Scouring generally removes all impurities from the cotton except coloring matters therefore bleaching is done after scouring. Cotton fabric contains natural coloring matters (like chlorophyll, xanthophylls & carotene) these coloring matters are degraded by treating it with oxidizing & reducing agent solution.

OBJECTIVE OF BLEACHING

1. To degrade the natural coloring matters 2. To provide maximum whiteness to fabric with minimum

damage on textile materials 3. To improve the brilliancy and evenness of the dyeing shade

IMPORTANCE OF BLEACHING It is necessary to produce white finished product for end uses and white fabric for the dyeing of light shade. Although the coloring matters are present in very small amount (usually less than 0.5%) but they considerably affect the appearance of fabric. Note If cloth is to be finished white or is to be given surface ornamentation, all natural colors must be removed by bleaching. This is also necessary if discoloration or stains have occurred during the previous manufacturing process. Bleaching can be done in yarn stage as well as in the constructed fabric. When cloth has been bleached for finishing, it is called bleached goods. All bleaching processes reduce the strength of the fiber.



Selection of Bleaching Agents

Selection of bleaching agent to be used on particular fiber or blend is depending upon the following factors;

a) Effectiveness of bleaching agents b) Degree of whiteness required c) Risk of fiber/fabric damage d) Cost controlling and economy e) Environmental factors

There are some commonly used bleaching agents. Reducing bleaching agents

• SO2 • NaHSO3 • Na2S2O4.

Oxidizing bleaching agents

• NaOCl • NaClO2 • BaO2 • Ca(OCl)2 • H2O2



BLEACHING WITH SODIUM CHLORITE (NaClO2)

In Chlorite bleaching, treatment of the fabric is carried out with the help of Sodium Chlorite. The bleached fabric is then subjected to dechlorination or antichlor treatment. H2O2 or HT antichlor enzymes are used as an antichlor in Sapphire Finishing Mills. the best antichlor is H2O2. After antichlor treatment, material is washed and dried. Sodium chlorite prepared by passing chlorine dioxide through strong solution of sodium hydroxide. 2ClO3 + 2NaOH NaClO2 + NaClO3 + H2O. Sodium chlorite can be use as a bleaching agent for both cotton and synthetic fibers. But here sodium chlorite is only use for light qualities such as 40 x 40 etc. Sodium Chlorite bleach is not permanent; the whiteness of chlorite bleach is less than peroxide bleach. Sodium chlorite is available in powder form. Sodium chlorite Saturator The steps of sodium chlorite saturator are

1. At the back of the chlorite saturator dosing tanks are placed for the recipe preparation and dosing.

2. bleaching Recipe is prepared in the dosing tanks, different chemicals are fed in different tanks and then pipe lines connect these tanks to the metering pumps, filters and to the saturator.

3. Fabric to be bleached (coming continuously from the scouring chamber and after passing through different washers) is impregnated with the sodium chlorite solution and squeezed by a padder to remove the excess liquor and to ensure an even pickup.

4. After impregnation, fabric goes to the chlorite steam chamber.

Recipe for Sodium Chlorite For 10g/l saturator Sodium chlorite 15 kg

Formic acid 3 kg

Alcohol 2.5 kg



Sodium Chlorite Chamber

1. Chlorite chamber is slightly different from scouring chamber. It is completely closed chamber having no drainage for chemicals, no recycling of liquor. This is because chlorine dioxide is highly toxic in nature. Capacity of this chamber is less than that of scouring chamber.

2. Chlorite chamber is coated from inside with titanium to prevent any damage due to the corrosive nature of chlorine compounds.

3. Excess of chlorine gas is produced in this chamber, which is collected and shifted away from the working area through ducts, where it is processed.

4. Chlorite chamber has no plate for piling the fabric but it has wings, which control the movement of fabric. After completion of required dwell time fabric goes to washing baths for washing.

Steamer Specification

• Fabric Capacity dwell time x fabric speed (meter)

• Dwell time 30-40 min • Temperature 97-100 °C • Under liquor level 3.5-4.0 ton

After treatments A few after treatments are also necessary when bleaching is done with hypochlorite bleaches.

• Anti-chlor treatment

Antichlorination plant This treatment is necessary to remove the traces of chlorine. The bleached so that chloride gas is more dangerous . For the Cl2 removal purpose, fabric is treated with NaOH maintain pH 13 and H2O2 maintain pH 4 solution in antichlor plant and following reaction take place.



Washers After chlorite chamber fabric enters into washers. In first washing bath we add antichlor HT enzyme or H2O2 which removes the excessive chlorine from the fabric. After steam chamber an open water trough is installed, 1st washing trough( we can also add H2O2 or anti chlor enzyme here) 2nd washer (temp 60, padder pressure 0.3MPa water showering) 3rd washer (temp 85o c,) 4th washer (temp 68o c) Block diagram of PERBLE section C

BLEACHING WITH HYDROGEN PER-OXIDE

Why H2O2 Bleaching? H2O2 is a universal bleaching agent and very suitable for all types of fibers. Bleaching with hydrogen per-oxide has many advantages over any other processes. Hydrogen per-oxide gives permanent whiteness affect. Furthermore, hydrogen per-oxide bleaching can take place concurrently with scouring at the boil. In addition, the



presence of the impurities has a desirable effect because it has a stabilizing action on the per-oxide. Hydrogen per-oxide is a colorless liquid soluble in water in all proportions. It is reasonably stable when the pH is below seven, but tends to become more unstable as the alkalinity is increased. Commercial hydrogen per-oxide, therefore, contains small quantities of organic or inorganic stabilizers to prevent decomposition during storage. Traces of certain metals or their salts act as catalysts causing rapid decomposition of hydrogen per-oxide. Particularly active in this respect are copper and iron. If they are present in the cotton before bleaching the promoted oxidizing action will cause degradation or disintegration of the substrate and pin holes are produced in fabric.

Conditions of bleaching with hydrogen per-oxide Some conditions of bleaching with hydrogen per-oxide are as follows, Concentration Concentration depends upon the degree of whiteness and nature of the material. Hydrogen per oxide is marketed in solution form with water in strength of 35% and 50%. pH Hydrogen per-oxide is highly stable in acidic solution while decomposes when pH increases. The range of pH within 10-11 is desirable and can be set with the help of NaOH and Na2CO3 which are called buffer or stabilizer. Temperature At ordinary temperature and acidic conditions hydrogen per-oxide is stable. Bleaching with hydrogen per-oxide can be done in both conditions in cold bleaching well as hot bleaching.

Effect of stabilizer It is impossible to adjust to the optimum pH with alkali alone and it is necessary to add a stabilizer that will keep the pH within limits. The most commonly used stabilizer is sodium silicate which has the advantage that it protection against those metallic contaminants which can cause catalytic decomposition. A number of reactions can



also occur, particularly in presence of metallic catalysts, to convert it into water and molecular oxygen.

This break down is more rapid in highly alkaline solution. The molecular oxygen escapes from the bleach solution reducing the bleaching effect and intermediates in its formation are very active and can cause fiber damage. Effect of metal ions All metal ions have catalytic effect but copper and iron strongly decompose hydrogen per-oxide. So water should be free from metal ions. Some sequestering agent like “Securon 540” can be used to make metal ions ineffective. Chemical is applied in saturator and fabric is store in bleaching chamber for 20-25min the temperature inside the chamber above 100oC. PEROXIDE RECIPE WITH AUXILIARIES Recipe NaOH Securon

540 Sifa H2O2 Cottonclorin

HE 1 3 1 2 6 1.5 2 3 1 3 10 1.5 3 5 1 3 15 1.5 4 6 1.5 4 18-20 2 5 6-7 1.5 5 22 2 6 6-7 2 5 25-28 2.5 7 8 2 6 30-32 2.5 8 10 2.5 7 35 3 9 10 3 7 38 3.5 10 10 3 8 40 4

BLEACHING CHAMBER This chamber is same as chlorine chamber. There is nascent Oxygen liberate by H2O2 that bleach the fabric. Bleaching Chamber can be divided in five portions.

• Entry Portion. • Gas Phase Portion. • Boil Off Portion. • Under Liquor Portion. • Exit Portion.



Entrance Zone

In saturator the fabric pick the chemical and inter in the bleaching chamber. Gas Phase Portion In this portion the temperature of he fabric is uniform by saturator steam otherwise if dry steam is use then the moisture of fabric dry. The temperature of metal inside the chamber is about 140c it mean temperature of metal is very high. Because of this when the fabric is fall on the metallic conveyor and tough with cylinder immediately layers are produce on the fabric by high temperature of conveyor and cylinder. Chemical showering is also done in gas portion. There are a loading plate. Boil Off Portion In the boil off portion, the fabric is fall on the Conveyor and chemical action is complete on the fabric and remove all the coloring matters. Under Liquor Portion After showering, the liquid of chemical is collect in the base of he chamber this portion is called under liquid portion. The Fabric is dip in this chemical liquid for some time. Dry steam is passed through the under liquor. Outer Portion In this portion fabric is passed under tension there are a semi padder to squeeze the chemical solution. The beater roller is use to beat the fabric for removal of chemicals to the fabric.

Reaction of hydrogen per-oxide

H2O2 --- H2O + O

Pull out mangle The fabric is pulled out from the bleaching chamber .



Washers To remove the applied chemicals fabric is passed by washing tanks. The last tank is use as neutralize tank in this tank INVATEX CS is applied to neutralize the fabric.

Drying cylinders In the last of the Perble plant there are three groups of drying cylinder for dry the fabric. Each group has 12 hot cylinders but last one has 10 hot and 2 cool cylinders. First 12 cylinders are Teflon coated. Steam is passed inside the cylinders and heated them. The condensate is also out from this point of entrance of steam. Last two are cooling to normal the temperature of fabric. The water is passed inside enter from one side and out from other.

Outlet Fabric is come out from machine by plaiter in trolley and come to the next machine. Block diagram of Perble section D

TITRATIONS

At the Perble, different titrations are performed to counter check the feeding of chemicals, these are as given below

1. Sodium hydroxide titration.(NaOH) 2. sodium chlorite titration (NaClO2) 3. Hydrogen peroxide titration.(H2O2)



NaOH TITRATION Apparatus

1. Pipette 2. Burette 3. Titration flask

Chemicals 1. Hydro Chloric Acid 2. Phenolphthalein

Chemical reaction . NaOH + HCl NaCl + H2O In case of Sulphuric Acid

H2SO4 +2 HCl Na2SO4 + 2H2O Procedure

Take 5 ml sample from saturator in conical flask. Add water and make up 100 ml volume. Add 3-4 drops of phenolphthalein Titrate it against 0.1N Sulphuric acid. End point is Light pink color.

Calculations NaOH = HCl N2V2 = N1V1 N2*5 = 0.1*V1 N2 = 0.1*V1/5 NaOH (100%)g/l 40*V/10==4*V TITRATION RESULTS OF NaOH .1 N HCl Titration value .1 N HCl Titration value 15 60 5 20 16 64 6 24 17 68 7 28 18 72 8 32 19 76 9 36 20 80 10 40 21 84 11 44 22 88 12 48 23 92 13 52 24 96 14 56 25 100



SODIUM CHLORITE TITRATION Apparatus

Pipette, burette and titration flask Chemicals

1. KI 2. H2SO4 3. Na2S2O3. 4. Starch solution

Chemical reaction

Take 3 ml of sample from saturator in flask. Add water and make up 150 ml volume. Add 10 ml of 10% H2SO4 Add 10 ml of 20% KI solution. Titrate it against 0.1 N of Na2S2O3 solution. When light pink color appears add 2-3 drops of 1% starch solution and continue titration with Na2S2O3

End point is blue color . Calculations Na2S2O3 == NaClO2 N1VI == N2V2 0.1*V1 == N2*3 N2 == 0.1*V1 /3 NaClO2 (100%) g/l 22.61*V/30=0.754*V NaClO2 (25%) g/l (0.754*V)/0.25=3*V TITRATION RESULTS FOR NaClO2

.1 N Na2SO4 Titrate value .1 N Na2SO4 Titrate value 30 22.61 10 7.536667 32 24.11733 12 9.044 34 25.62467 14 10.55133 36 27.132 16 12.05867 38 28.63933 18 13.566 40 30.14667 20 15.07333 42 31.654 22 16.58067 44 33.16133 24 18.088 46 34.66867 26 19.59533 48 36.176 28 21.10867 50 37.68373



H2O2 TITRATION Apparatus

1. Pipette 2. burette 3. titration flask

Reagents 1. 0.1N potassium permanganate 2. 10%V/V sulphuric acid.

Reaction

Procedure

Take 1 ml sample in flask Add water to make up 100 ml volume Add 10 ml of 10% sulphuric acid Titrate with 0.1N KMnO4 End point is Light pink color.

Calculation KMnO4 = H2O2

N1VI == N2V2 0.1*V1 == N2*1 N2 ==0.1*V1/1 H2O2 (100%)g/l 17*0.1*V== 1.7*V H2O2 (35%)g/l 1.7*V/0.35=5*V Titration results for NaOH & H2O2

.1 N HCl

Titration value

.1 N HCl

Titration value

.1 N KMnO4

Titration Value

.1 N KMnO4

Titration value

2 8 2 9.71 7.5 36.43 1 4 2.1 8.4 2.5 12.14 8 38.86 1.1 4.4 2.2 8.8 3 14.57 8.5 41.29 1.2 4.8 2.3 9.2 3.5 17.00 9 43.71 1.3 5.2 2.4 9.6 4 19.43 9.5 46.14 1.4 5.6 2.5 10 4.5 21.86 10 48.57 1.5 6 2.6 10.4 5 24.29 10.5 51.00 1.6 6.4 2.7 10.8 5.5 26.71 11 53.43 1.7 6.8 2.8 11.2 6 29.14 11.5 55.86 1.8 7.2 2.9 11.6 6.5 31.75 12 58.29 1.9 7.6 3 12 7 34.00 12.5 60.71



COUNTER FLOW OF PERBLE In Sapphire, 200-250 ton of water per hour is being consumed. To maintain water consumption Counter Flow system has been developed among the washing range of Perble. As shown in the diagram, Counter flow after per-oxide bleaching

Counter flow after chlorite bleaching



Counter flow after scouring

Counter flow after desizing

Counter flow after singeing



MERCERIZATION Mercerization is the process of treating the cotton substrate with aqueous solution of caustic soda of high concentration to impart better properties in it. Mercerization of cotton materials though technically a simple and uncomplicated process, makes profound changes in the structure of cotton fibres, both at molecular and macromolecular levels. Treatment of cotton fibres with the solution of sodium hydroxide of known concentration under controlled tension alters their molecular orientation, crystal structure, degree of crystallanity and morphology. These changes increase sorption, tensile strength extensibility, lustre and roundness of fibres and also affect the handle and drape of the material made from these fibres. Treatment of cellulose with caustic soda forms soda cellulose.

Cell — OH + NaOH ——> Cell — ONa+ + H2O Subsequent neutralization of soda cellulose regenerates cellulose forming hydrated cellulose which when dried has a slightly different arrangement of the glucose units in the crystal structure and is responsible for difference in properties of mercerized and mercerized cotton. MERCERIZING MACHINE Mercerizing -1 Machine Name: Sando Mercerizing Range Model 2002 Manufacturer Sando Iron works, Japan Operational Width 200 cm (78-80 inches) Max Speed 150 m/min Operational Speed 50-70 m/min Mercerizing-2 Machine Name Red Flag Mercerizing Range Model 2007 Manufacturer Red Flag Dyeing and Printing Machines, China



PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL CHANGES

Fibre volume increases after this process

Moisture absorption becomes high (40%-50 %).

Fabric length decreases (1%-2%).

Tensile strength increases.

Luster is increased.

Better dimensional stability

Decrease in twist per unit length.

Increase in dye-ability (25%).

The effect of acids and oxidizing agents increases.

Mercerized fiber is more resistant to light and

weather.

Fabric obtains more density and compact

appearance.

The lumen of fibre disappears



PROCESS FLOW

FABRIC INPUT

IMPREGNATING IN WATER

FIRST LYE TANK

FABRIC STRETCHING

SECOND LYE TANK

FABRIC STRETCHING

STENTER CHAIN

SHOWERING

WASHING BATHS

pH CONTROL BATH

DRYING

FABRIC EXIT



PARTS OF MERCERIZING MACHINE Important parts of the machine are as given below, Fabric Entry Zone Fabric can be entered by trolley or batcher then guided by guide rolls and pneumatic fabric guiders, to the impregnator. Impregnator It contains water to impregnate the fabric for wet on wet treatment. Padder

Padder consists of a steel roller and a rubber coated roller. Rubber coated roller is pressed by pneumatic pressure against the steel roller to squeeze the extra liquor. Saturators Saturators are actually troughs containing caustic solution of different concentrations. It is also called caustic pot and it is used to impregnate the fabric with alkali. There are two saturators and four dips are given to fabric in each saturator. The temperatre of the saturator is 30oC. Trough capacity 1000 ltrs Caustic Strength 28o Be At the exit of the trough, the fabric is squeezed out by three bowl padding mangle. Caustic filter and Chiller Caustic coming form the saturators is filtered in the filter and then it goes to the chiller for cooling. After cooling it is mixed with fresh lye and fed again to the saturators. Tensioning and Timing Zone After saturators, fabric goes to the timing Tensioning and Timing Zone, which provides time for the lye to react with cellulosic substrate. There are 4 small cylinders, eight large cylinders after first saturator and 3 small cylinders, five large cylinders after second saturator. There is a dancing roll and braker before clip stentor.



Feed mangle After the braker fabric is guided by 2 guide rolls to the feed mangle. It is a 2 bowl mangle which feeds the fabric to the chain. Stenter chain with clips Machine Chain is clip type and used to adjust the width of the fabric by stretching it. At the entry the chain or fabric width is smaller which is gradually stretched. e.g. Entry width 60” Chain full width 65” Exit width 61” Chain length 27 meter Showers and Suctions As the fabric is clipped on the chain it is subject to caustic showering by 5 showers. The strength of caustic solution is 3-5 Be. Showers removes alkali from the fabric and five air suctions are provided with showers which sucks the liquor showered by showers and ensure efficient removal of lye from fabric.

First showering temp is 30oC Second showering temp is 30oC Third showering temp is 30oC Fourth showering temp is 75oC Fifth showering temp is 75oC

Exit Mangle At the end of chain the clip open and the fabric is entered in to exit mangle and fed into washing range. Washers Washers are used to wash the fabric at elevated and low temperatures and to neutralize the alkali by sulphuric acid.

Total number washers 11 Temp of first 4 washers 80oC Temp of next 3 washers 40oC Temp of 3 washers is 90oC Tamp of last one is 40oC

Dryers 12 Bowl cylinder Dryers is used to dry the fabric and are exactly same as that of Perble.



Platter/ Batching arm After drying fabric can be loaded on trolley by platter for dyeing and for emerising (peaching) it can be batched on batcher. At mercerizer both options are available.

The Process

Fabric enters from entry platter in mercerizing machine and enter into the impregnator or wet mangle for wetting. Then fabric enters into the first saturator after passing from 8-ton padder having pad pressure of 7-ton. Saturator contains sodium hydroxide having concentration of 22 – 28 Baume at temperature of 35ºC. After first saturator fabric is squeezes by 10-ton pad roller with pad pressure 6- ton and passes over 8 draw rollers or timing drums which give tension to the fabric for the improvement of warp wise dimension of the fabric. There is a tension meter which is used to adjust the tension of fabric over these draw rollers. After passing through these draw rollers, fabric enters into the second saturator having sodium hydroxide of concentration 28º Baume at temperature of 30ºC. After saturator fabric again goes to the six timing/draw rollers. There is a chiller at the back of m/c used to cool the sodium hydroxide. Chiller is a shell and tube heat exchanger. In tubes brine solution is present and in shell NaOH is present. There are gauges for temperature indication of brine. For chilling purpose Freon 12 gas is used which cool down the temperature of brine and brine cool down the temperature of sodium hydroxide. After saturation from



second saturator fabric moves from 10-ton padder roller with pad pressure 8-ton. Then fabric moves over a chain. On the start of this chain feed mangle is present and its pressure is 2 MPa. The purpose of chain is to control the width to fabric. For this purpose chain adjusting rod with a meter is present by which we can adjust width of fabric. Length of chain is 27 meters having 525 clips. First 12 meters of chain functions to maintain the fabric dimension weft wise. The last part of chain which is around 15 meters in length contains the solution of sodium hydroxide of 2º Baume. Its purpose is to stabilize the warp and weft wise dimension of fabric. In between the showers 5 vacuum suckers are present, which suck the extra solution from the fabric and this sucked solution is dropped into 5 pits, which are present underneath the chain. The motor pumps recycle the solution of pits.

At the start of the chain a sensor is present to check the selvedge of the fabric to keep it on the chain if it is out, sensors close the chain to catch the selvedge back .

After chain, fabric passes over different rollers and enters into the first washer. There are total 11 washers in a series. First 3 washers have nearly the same pH around 11.2-11.4, and the pH of 4th washer is 10.9 the 5th and 6th washers are neutralizes. Here, we neutralize NaOH with the help of 10% H2SO4, so the pH of thee washers fall down to 2 and then the fabric moves to 7th and 8th washers, where pH of the fabric is maintained at 2 - 2.5 and then fabric passes from 9th and 10th washer, where it is neutralized with water and its pH is 7-7.5. Now in last 11th washer, we finally neutralize the fabric by 20% Neutra acid NVM which decreases pH of the fabric from 7.5 to 5.4, finally we rinse the fabric with normal water. After washers fabric goes to dryers where it is dried by steam heated cylinders exactly same as that of Perble range. After drying fabric is loaded on trolley by platter or batched on batcher for Peaching. Now the fabric is ready to transfer to next depart.



Block diagram of mercerizing machine

COUNTER FLOW OF MERCERIZATION



DYEING DEPARTMENT



DYEING It is defined as under; The application of solid color to the textile material from dye liquor, is called as dyeing.

OR The process that produce chemical or physical changes in the substrates that the reflection of light appears as colored, is called as dyeing. DYESTUFF The organic molecules that are responsible for bringing the color on textile material are called as dyestuff.

DYESTUFF CLASSIFICATION It can be classified on four parameters;

I. Base on ionic structure. II. Base on application or use.

III. Base on water solubility. IV. Base on chemical constituent.

DYEING PROCESS The coloration of textile material in a dyeing solution. The dyeing solution may contain;

1. Dye stuff 2. Water 3. Auxiliaries

STAGES OF DYEING PROCESS 1. Preparation of dyeing solution 2. Actual dyeing 3. Soaping and washing 4. Drying

STEPS OF DYEING PROCESS

1. Migration 2. Adsorption 3. Absorption 4. Diffusion 5. Fixation



DYE LIQUOR

1. Dye stuff 2. Water 3. Electrolyte (sodium chloride or sodium sulphate) 4. Heat

FORCES I. Force of repulsion is developed between dye molecule

and water. II. Force of attraction is developed between dye molecules

and textile material. BINDING FORCES OF DYE MOLECULE

1. Intermolecular forces a) Vander-wall forces b) Hydrogen bonding c) Covalent bonding d) Dye molecule aggregates

DYEING METHODS 1. Batch method 2. Semi-continuous method 3. Continuous method

DYEING MACHINES FOR BATCH METHOD

1. Fiber Dyeing

Loose stock dyeing m/c 2. Yarn Dyeing

Spindle package dyeing m/c

Hank dyeing m/c 3. Fabric Dyeing

Beam dyeing m/c

Winch dyeing m/c

Jigger dyeing m/c

Jet dyeing m/c

Soft flow dyeing m/c 4. GARMENT DYEING:-

Peg dyeing m/c i. Rotary drum dyeing m/c.



DYEING M/C FOR SEMI-CONTINUOUS METHOD

Fabric dyeing

Pad-batch pad thermo sol dyeing machine

DYEING M/C FOR CONTINUOUS METHOD

FIBER DYEING

Continuous fiber dyeing machine

YARN DYEING MACHINE

Slasher dyeing machine

Rope dyeing machine

FABRIC DYEING

Pad- thermo sol dyeing machine

Pad steam dyeing machine

Dyeing Stenter

SELECTION OF DYEING MACHINE Basic Considerations

1. Dye molecule and fabric contact should be done. 2. This contact should be in minimum possible time. 3. This contact should get uniform penetration of color.

How We Can Achieve this?

1. By circulation of dye liquor (raw stock dyeing m/c) 2. By circulation of fabric(jigger dyeing m/c) 3. By circulation of both liquor and fabric (jet dyeing machine)



Factors Affecting The Design Of Dyeing Machine

1. Area of coverage 2. Cost 3. Production 4. Dyeing method 5. Time 6. Temperature and pressure 7. Casing requirement 8. Heating system 9. Cooling system 10. Chemical impact 11. Display 12. Shade matching 13. Inlet / outlet 14. Automation arrangement 15. Maintenance at optimum temp 16. Utility

BATCH WISE DYEING

1. Liquid ratio = 5: 1-30:1 2. Through circulation of liquor is required particularly for

substantive dyes. 3. If rate of circulation is inadequate, it will cause uneven

dyeing. 4. When there is insufficient force then liquid on the surface of

fiber forms a hydrodynamic layer. Since further dye can reach the fiber surface except diffusion, so the rate of dyeing is reduced. Increasing the flow to maintain the effect of hydrodynamic layer eliminates this problem.

5. Two ways: - First material is in circulation. Second is, liquor is in circulation.

LOOSE FIBER DYEING

1. Dyeing of staple fiber and continuous tow. 2. Hot liquor is circulated into the packages of fibrous mass by

use of pumps. 3. Mechanical devices are used for loading and unloading. 4. This method is widely used by quality of dyeing is

disappointing.



YARN DYEING

1. Packages are mounted on hollow spindles 2. Packages can be cheeses, cones , muffs 3. Capacity is one ton of yarn at a time 4. Pumps for circulation of liquor 5. The whole system in a cylindrical dome shaped vessel having

lid on it HANK DYEING

1. Suitable for yarns like wool, acrylic, and knitted carpet yarn. 2. Hanks are mounted on spindles and liquor is circulated around

them with the help of pump. 3. Dyeing is uniform with reversing flow of liquor.

FABRIC DYEING

BEAM DYEING: -

1. Fabric is wounded on a perforated beam. 2. liquor is circulated through pumps. 3. Fabric is in open width form. 4. Any dimensional instability leads to uneven

dyeing.

JIG DYEING: -

Jigger dyeing machine

1. Direction of movement of roll is automatically reversed when one is completed

2. Capacity in open m/c 500-1000 m , closed machine 5000 m

3. Close lid to maintain the pressure and temperature losses

4. Liquor ratio 5:1 and temperature 130oC 5. Economical method , easy to install, less energy

consumption.



Pressure jigger machine

WINCH DYEING

1. Suitable for woolen and knitted fabrics 2. Deep draught machine is circular. 3. The rope of the fabric is winched in reel. 4. Wool and heavy types area suited to deep draught

machine. 5. Filament acetate are suited to shallow winch.

JET DYEING

1. This machine uses jet of dye liquor 2. Low liquor ratio can be used 3. The size of jet may also regulated to match the best

requirement for particular fiber


http://www.alibaba.com/catalog/11155096/Pressure_Dye_Jigger.html


SUB DEPARTMENTS OF DYEING IN SFM

1. Dyeing laboratory 2. Dyeing kitchen 3. Dyeing floor

1. DYEING LAB

Incharge: Mr. Yaseen

Equipments in dyeing laboratory The first and foremost place where a shade can be prepared and examined against standards. Dyeing lab is the place where we develop recipies for different color/shades as per customer provided sample. Lab shade is developed on such parameters that it can easily be adopted for bulk production on dying floor. Actually dying lab acts as a foundation for bulk production because selection of dyes according to the customer requirements and matching of the shade under recommended light sources is primarily carried out here to facilitate the bulk production. This lab is well equipped by dye application padder, IR dryer, curing machine, chemical pad steam for reactive and vat dyes separately. In lab the most important equipments are Data Color, Auto Lab Dispenser and auto Lab Solution Maker. PURPOSE OF DYEING LAB Following are some important purposes of dying lab.

1) To make lab dips as per requirements of customer. 2) To analyze new dye stuff i.e. its tone, light and color

fastness etc. 3) To calculate the cost of every shade on any specific

fabric. 4) To maintain Lab/ Dying production record customer and

shade wise. 5) To dye the fabric on small scale and observes its hue

and matching before bulk production on dyeing floor. 6) To prepare solution of different dyes for Auto Lab

Dispenser. 7) matching the color and shade 8) developing the recipies for lab scale and bulk dyeing

.



PROCESS FLOW Standard receiving

Fabric arrangement

Dye stuff selection

Chemical selection

Dye stuff combination with dispenser

Selection dyeing method

Lab dip

Application of finish

Sample to Customer

SELECTION OF DYES To make a shade of any type following points should be taken in account:

1. First we have to know the customer’s requirements mentioned in the ‘Lab Dips Request’ i.e. type of dyeing, fastness requirements and the light sources. This information will help us to choose the dyes, e.g. a customer want to dye the fabric in reactive dyes and require very good light/washing fastness then we will select the proper dyes from the range which will full fill the requirements.

2. Usually the customers require light fastness between 3-4, Washing fastness around 4 and crocking 3 to 5 from light to dark shades.

3. Another case when the customer not mentioned the type of dyes but only the fastness requirements then the lab in-charge will to select the dyes according to the shade depth, dullness/brightness and which will fulfill the fastness requirements, e.g. for light shades like Khaki, Light Grey, light



pink etc. Vat dyes are first priority because their washing fastness is very good and the light fastness is better.

4. Light fastness of orange is better than red. Running behavior of orange in production is better than red because red will create problems above 10 g/l. Red has also very poor crocking value.

5. Crocking of Reactive dyes better than Vat. 6. Light fastness is better in Vat. Light fastness is an issue in

case of light pink shade. 7. Rem. Navy RGB has very poor light fastness so avoid it to

use. 8. In navy shades of Black B washing fastness is an issue. 9. We have to know the running behavior in production of every

dye e.g. Rem. Black B will create problem below 15 g/l recipe. 10. Remember avoid to select opposite dyes (different

tones) like Red & Turq. Blue, Red and Green, Red and Lemon Yellow.

11. In Vat dyes secondary & tertiary dyes are preferred and to avoid primary dyes e.g, we can use Brown in place of Red, Olive in place of Yellow and Grey in place of Blue.

12. For navy shades avoid to use Rem. Black B in recipes below 15 g/l because in small quantity its behavior in production is not good.

13. Rem. Navy RGB has poor light fastness so it is used conditionally.

14. If the customer’s requirement is to dye the fabric in Pigments then we first develop 50% shade in reactive dyes and then apply pigment on the remaining shade.

METHOD OF APPLICATION For the application of different classes of dyes to the fabric different application methods are used which are as listed below,

1. Pigment colors. 2. Reactive PDC. 3. Reactive PDCPS. 4. Vat dyes. 5. Sulfur dyes. & 6. Disperse dyes. 7. Disperse and Reactive (one bath). 8. Disperse + reactive/vat (two bath).



Complete details of these application methods are as given 1. PIGMENT COLORS

Recipe for pigment dyeing

1. Pigment color x g/l 2. Binder ET 5-25 g/l 3. Wetting Agent HS or NF. 2 g/l 4. Anti-migrant.(solidikoll p35) 10-15 g/l

Process conditions 1. Pad Pad pressure 1.5 bar, speed 1.5 m/min. 2. Dry 3.0 min at 150oC (IR Dryers) 3. Cure 160-170oC for 1.5 min.

2. REACTIVE DYES

Reactive dyes are applied by two ways

1. PDC (Pad+ Dry+ Cure) 2. PDCPS (Pad+ Dry+ Chemical Pad Steam)

1. PDC for Reactive Ciba P Dyes

This process is only used for cibacron-P dyes. For P class dyes

a typical recipe is as given

1. Dye x g/L 2. Urea 60-100 g/L 3. Wetting Agent HS 2 g/L 4. Anti-migrating Agent (solidikoll p35) 10-15 g/L 5. Soda Ash/sodium hydrogen carbonate 10-25 g/L

Process Conditions

1. Pad : Pad pressure 1.5 bar, speed 1.5 m/min. 2. Dry 3.0 min at 150oC (IR Dryers) 3. Cure 160-170oC for 1.5 min. 4. Wash with water

2. PDCPS for Reactive (Remazol, Levafix, Ciba.C, &Drimarene)



This process is used for all reactive dyes except Ciba P.

Recipe for reactive dyes

1. Dye x g/l 2. Anti reducing agent (Revatol S) 10 g/l 3. Wetting Agent NF 2 g/l 4. Anti-migrating Agent (Solidokol- p35) 10-15

g/l 5. Soda Ash/sodium hydrogen carbonate 10-20

g/l

Process Conditions 1. Pad Pad pressure 1.5 bar , speed 1.5 m/min. 2. Dry 3.0 min at 150oC (IR Dryers) Developing on pad steam can be carried out by two ways.

• By using sodium silicate 50 % (42 baume) • By salt method as given,

1. Common salt /G.salt 200-250 g/L 2. Caustic soda 5-15 g/L 3. Soda ash 10-20 g/L

Temperatures of chemical pad steamer are adjusted at,

Temperature of chamber = 100°C Temperature of 1 wash bath = 40°C Temperature of 2 wash bath = 70°C Temperature of 3 wash bath = 80°C Temperature of 4 wash bath = 90°C Temperature of 5 wash bath = 80°C Temperature of 6 wash bath = 40°C

After developing washing chambers are used for soaping and washing. 3. VAT DYES

Recipe for vat dyes is as 1. Dye x g/l 2. Wetting Agent HS 2 g/l 3. Anti-migrant (solidokoll p35) 10-15 g/l



4. Dispersing agent (setamol BL) 2 g/l

Process condition

1. Pad pressure 1.5 bar, speed 1.5 m/min. 2. Dry 3.0 min at 150 oC (IR Dryers)

Developing Light shade Medium Dark

shade 1. Sodium hydroxide (48°Be) 38g/l 48g/l

70g/l 2. Sodium hydrosulphite 38g/l 48g/l

70g/l 3. Glauber salt 5g/l 5g/l

5g/l 4. Dextrose (Glucose) 10g/l 10g/l

10g/l 4. SULPHUR DYES

Recipe for sulphur dyes 1. Dye xg/l 2. Sodium sulphide yg/l 3. Wetting Agent NF 2g/l 4. Soda Ash 10-20g/l 5. Sodium Chloride 10g/l 6. Urea (not necessary) 40-60g/l

Process condition

1. Pad: Pad pressure 1.5 bar, speed 1.5 m/min. 2. Dry 3.0 min at 150 oC (IR Dryers) The ratio between dye and sodium sulphide should be 1:1.5 respectively and we have to use nearly boiled water to dissolve the recipe. Complete the process and then oxidize the sample with hydrogen peroxide and then wash it with hot and cold water.



5. DISPERSE DYES These dyes are only use for the polyester fabric

Recipe of disperse dyes 1. Dye x g/l 2. Wetting Agent NF 2 g/l 3. Anti-migrating Agent (Solidokol- p35) 10-15 g/l 4. Dispersing Agent (Setamol- BL) 2g/l

Process condition

1. Pad: Pad pressure 1.5 bar, speed 1.5 m/min. 2. Dry 3.0 min at 150 oC (IR Dryers) 3. Cure 160-170 oC for 1.5 min. After curing the reduction clearing is done with the help of,

1 Sodium hydrosulphite = 20-30 g/l 2 Caustic(48°Be) = 20-30 g/l

6. DISPERSE /REACTIVE OR VAT (One Bath) This process is used for PC (Polyester Cotton Blend) dull &light shade. Take the recipes of disperse and reactive/vat in single bath and pad the fabric after padding first we develop disperse dye for polyester portion which is mentioned above then we use PDCPS for development of reactive/vat for cotton portion which is also discussed earlier then skeleton out polyester part. For this purpose we use sulphuric acid. Sulphuric acid dissolves cotton, but polyester fiber remain un-affected. Now dry the sample and check the shade manually and on data color program if it is not ok then retrial with revised recipe and if ok then proceed further 7. DISPERSE/ REACTIVE OR VAT (Two Bath) This process is used for PC (Polyester Cotton Blend) bright & dark shades. Recipes of disperse reactive and vat are discussed earlier so first prepare disperse recipe and proceed for polyester as mentioned above then skeleton out polyester part and match the shade if yes then proceed for cotton fiber and if not ok then retrial for polyester fiber by another sample. When polyester will ok according to shade then we evaluate at least 10 samples and do complete process as above and then make the recipe of reactive/vat, which discussed



earlier and develop the shade of the cotton fibers. If we are working on reactive then the two processes PDCPS or PDC any one is applied depending on dye type and if we are working on vat then we use vat PDCPS. For both reactive and vat we complete the process then check the shade manually and data color program if not ok then retrial with change of recipe and if ok then proceed further. SPECIFICATIONS OF LAB EQUIPMENTS

PADDER Manufacturer Mathis Pad pressure 0-10 bar Speed 0-10 m/ min Trough capacity 300-350 ml Comp. air pressure max 100 psi/7 bar

IR DRYER

Model MH-6 IR heaters 6+6 = 12 Speed 5 sec – 10 min. Temperature 0-399 oC

PAD STEAM + WASHERS

Model Mathis (Switzerland) Speed 0-5 meters/ min Pad pressure 0-10 bar Trough capacity 1 ltr Each washer capacity 15 ltrs Winding tension 0-100 %



CURING MACHINE

Model PT -1 Manufacturer Tsuji Japan. Co. Japan Belt width 100- 500 mm Temperature max 399 oC

DATA COLOR (Auto Lab Dispenser)

Model GT 36/72 Total bottles 108 Positions 03 Position 01 vat & disperse dye Position 02 reactive dye Position 03 not in use

SPECTRAFLASH (SPECTROPHOTOMETER)

Model SF 600 + CT Soft ware colortools



‘DATACOLOR’ AUTO DISPENSER When we want to make any shade then we have to mix some colors/dyes in specific ratios. For this we have to make the dye solutions of specific concentration and mixed these solutions in a specific ratio. This work is very sensitive and need great care because bulk production in processing unit is totally based on the Lab Recipe. So there are two options that this work is done by manual pipetting or through by the automatic dispensing machine viz. ‘DATA COLOR’ Auto Dispenser. It is automatic (computerized) dispensing machine through which we can dispense out 20 different color recipes at the same time with great accuracy. In this machine the dyes/chemical solutions of desired concentration are already prepared and connected with automatic dosing system. We feed our recipes in the computer and allow the machine to dispense out these recipes. All the functions can be shown on the computer in case of any troubleshooting. When any solution becomes empty then an Herewith and we can easily make any solution. How to use Dispenser?

1. First of all take complete round of dispenser and check its Conditions.

2. All parts including Bottles, Injector, Anti dipping plate etc working in proper way.

3. Switch on the main power and press button “ON” from the Dispenser.

4. Agitation Button should be ON For A and B portion.

5. Switch on computer. 6. Double click on Auto Lab TFDP. 7. Double click on Auto Lab TF Ctrl.

How to dispense Recipe?

1. Open Auto Lab TFDP window 2. Click on Recipe Modify Icon. 3. Column and now save it and close it. 4. Click on batch management Icon. (Batch

arrangement management window open)

5. Alert List open it show us about 6. *Low level of Bottles 7. *Expire date of solution. 8. Recipe transferred



9. Now click Auto Lab TF Ctrl. 10. Window open of Auto Lab TF-80 Tube Free

Dispenser system. 11. Click on RUN ICON.

A message display on Window

Waiting for Dye Pot Tray to be loaded How to make solution for Dispenser?

1. Switch on the computer. 2. Switch on the solution maker. 3. Open the software Auto Lab SPS. 4. Double click on green bottle I-con make solution. 5. Window open .write bottle no and press Enter. . 6. Write volume you want to make in specific bottle. 7. Placed the bottle on scale in Auto Lab SPS. 8. Click enter button (scale stabilize and amount of

dyes required show on computer. 9. Add the dyes within tolerance. 10. Click enter button OR press the Confirm

button from the Auto Lab SPS. 11. Wait until the Auto Lab SPS fill fix amount of

water and a message come on window about accuracy of the solution.

12. Replace the bottle from the scale and close the bottle .place it on the mixer station.

13. Give at least 10 minutes for stirring. Points to Remember

• Make sure (concentration & dyes) data is same for a specific Bottle no. in Solution Maker and Dispenser.

After making solution place every dyes and chemical on its proper place.

Keep Scale neat and clean. How to use Mixer Station?

1. Switch on the Mixer Station 2. Place the Bottle on the Mixer Station in a specific whole No

with Magnet in the Bottle. 3. Adjust the speed of Stirrer according to specific whole No. 4. Give 10 minutes to Mix the solution.



5. After stirring Remove the bottle from Mixer. 6. Switch off the Mixer station.

PADDER Padders are used for application of dye on the fabric .Speed and pressure of padders is adjusted according to required pickup of fabric. There are two types of padders

Vertical Padder Horizontal Padder

Manufacturer

Mathis Corporation How to use Padder?

1. Switch on the padder. 2. Adjust speed 4.5 m/min. 3. Adjust the pressure 3 Bar. 4. Switch ON the pressure. 5. Adjust the padder on single mode. 6. Press the start Button (fabric Run). 7. Wash the padder with water. 8. Rotate the padder Roller at Vertical Position. 9. Attach dye Bath Larger OR Smaller Trough. 10. Rinse the padder 11. Dye your dip and proceed it . 12. Open the outlet from lower side of padder. 13. Wash the padder with shower. 14. Stop the padder from button fabric Run.



‘DATACOLOR’ SPECTROPHOTOMETER The practice of color measurement with instruments is called spectrophotometery. Although the instruments used may be very different, the basic principles of visible spectrophotometry are the same as those applicable to infrared, near infrared, ultraviolet, microwave and other type of spectrophotometry. Spectrophotometers have three essential parts, a light source, a monochromator, and a detector. An output device such as a chart recorder, CRT or printer is often present. This ‘DATACOLOR’ Spectrophotometer is internationally acceptable shade evaluator system which follows the computer software of CIE Color Order System and gives us the deviation of shade from L*, a*, b*, C*, h*, which will explain latter. Some customers checked the shade visually and some demand “PASS” report of the DATACOLOR spectrophotometer. There are three options when we evaluate any shade:

1. Pass Report when the *CMC DE is below 0.5 2. Warn Report when the CMC DE is less than 1. 3. Fail Report when the CMC DE is above 1.

*CMC DE (Color Measuring Committee Deviation) 444 By the help of this instrument, we can get some major advantages like

1. We select a range of dyestuff and the light sources under which we want to evaluate the shade, and then this equipment will give us different options with different set of dyes under recommended light sources with minimum metamerism value. Therefore, we have to select one of these options.

2. Another advantage of this equipment is that we can evaluate two samples of same shade and the color difference (CIE L*a*b* Color Difference) between these two can get. This difference is shown numerically and graphically and we can print out easily by printer.

METAMERISM When two object, fabrics for example, match in color under one set of lighting conditions but fail to match under other lighting conditions, the object are said to be a metameric pair. This means



that the two objects have different spectrophotometric curves. Metamaric pair has different spectrophotometric curves but identical color space coordinates for one set of conditions. Conversely, nonmetamaric pair has identical spectrophotometric curves. Metamerism is a common problem in textile because the dye used to formulate color usually has different light absorbing characteristics from the colorants in the object being matched. Therefore, formulating an exact, nonmetamaric match of the desired color in a textile material may not always be possible. The problem of metamerism cannot be removed completely but can be minimized by selecting a set of such dyes which have close spectrophotometeric curves.

How to use DATA Color Spectrophotometer?

1. Switch on spectrum 2. Switch on computer, enter pass word . 3. Double click on Data Color Tools. 4. Small window appear .Enter dci and press OK. 5. A window of Data Color Tools appear click ON. 6. “CIE P/F” and click on “CMC P/F” a small window open . 7. Click on List Std . 8. Select your required Std. 9. Place the Std in front of aperture according to size of

specimen. 10. Select your light source from Illum/Obs option. 11. Click on [Batch Insert ] option OR press F8 from the key

board. 12. DE values and l,a,b, values appear on the screen. 13. Observe them and take decision about your addition .

How to feed New Standard?

1. Place the Standard at the aperture of spectrophotometer. 2. Be sure no crease or effected fabric in front of aperture

area. 3. Click on new standard I.con. 4. Write name of new standard with shade and customer

identification . 5. For example if you want to feed standard shade :Raven

Customer Springs and quality 60.60/180.106. 6. >>>…. “ Raven SPG 60.60/180.106”……..<<<<< 7. Now click on Std:Inst.

How to Store standard?

1. Click on store std Icon.



2. Window open Select folder in which you want to store standard.

3. Click OK. How to store Batch?

1. First of all store standard 2. Click on store all Batches 3. Select folder in which you stored standard. 4. Click Ok. 5. How to Retrieve Standard 6. Click on Retrieve Std 7. A window open move your mouse and click on Browse

Data. 8. Select folder. 9. Select sample. 10. Click Ok and then Click Ok.

How to Use Light Box?

1. Switch on the Light Box. 2. Switch off all other lights in dark room. 3. Remove all things from Light Box. 4. Press Button to require light source (CWF, D-65,

UV etc). 5. Place the Sample in light Box and observe it at

45 angles. 6. After use press button to Light off.

VARIOUS LIGHT SAUCES There are various standard light sources under which a shade(object) can only reflect light waves which shine on the object, the color of the object depends on the intensity of the various wavelengths which are present in the light source. The Commission International de I’Eclairage (CIE) defines several light sources. Having standard light sources is important so that standard conditions can be established for viewing, comparison, acceptance and rejection of colors in commerce. CIE sources A, B and Care all incandescent. Source A is a tungsten filament lamp operating at a color temperature of 2854 oK. Source B & C are filtered tungsten filament sources operating at color temperature of 4800 oK and 6500 oK respectively. Source B is intended to simulate noon sunlight while source C is intended to stimulate over-cast sky daylight. Various Light sources which are commonly used are:



1. D65 (color temp. of 6500 oK) Day Light 2. F02 (CWF) Cool White Florescence 3. TL84 or Horizon Tube Light 4. A or INCA Bulb Light 5. UV Ultra Violet 6. U3000 (TL 83) 7. F11 (TL 84)



DYEING KITCHEN Dyeing kitchen is divided in to two parts

i) Sub Store Area ii) Dyes and Chemicals mixing area

i) Sub Store Area Here dyes and chemicals are temporarily stored after taken from main store. The purpose of sub store is that frequently used dyes and chemicals are available at any time. Dyes and chemicals are arranged with their brand names; in different racks i.e. pigment dyes are present on one side, while reactive days are placed on the other side. During storage, liquid and powder form dyes and chemicals are stored separately to minimize contamination chances. In sub store for weighing three weighing balances are also present having capacity of 8,000 Gms, 64.000 kg and third one of more then 315 kg. ii) Dyes and chemical mixing area There is a pair of platform for dyes and chemicals mixing along with three mechanical mixers (pre mixers). Platform No1 Contains seven tanks, having capacity

1. One 300 Ltrs 2. One 750 Ltrs 3. Two 1000 Ltrs 4. One 1500 Ltrs 5. Two of 1900 Ltrs

Platform No. 2 Contains six tank, having capacity

1. One 300 Ltrs 2. One 750 Ltrs 3. One 1000 Ltrs 4. One 1500 Ltrs 5. Two 1900 Ltrs

Tanks of 300 Ltrs capacity contains stream heated water, that is used to clear the dosing pipes when the dyeing shade is changed from dark to light shade and that of 600 Ltrs capacity contains normal temp water for line washing. Steam heated water also used for mixing of such dyes which required higher temperature then the normal one i.e. vat dyes.



DOCUMENTATION OF DYING KITCHEN Following seven documents are made during daily work in dying kitchen area.

1. Matching Recorded Register. 2. Dyes and Chemicals Issue Slip. 3. Daily Consumption Register. 4. Chemical Stock Register (for dyes) 5. Chemical Stock Register (for chemicals) 6. List of Dyes and Chemical with their minimum stock

level. 7. Topping Record Register.

Documentation procedure of dying kitchen First “Shade Record Profile” taken into dying kitchen form dying lab with its final recipe in mg/l and sample, quality and quantity of fabric to be dyed. These details are written in “Matching Record Register” then recipe is recounted for bulk quantity and redefined as per requirements of final approved shade. The quantities of dyes and chemicals are also written in this register. In the second step, store staff, record all the details of issued chemical and dyes in “Dyes and Chemical Issue Slip”. On each issuance a new slip is formed. Dyes and chemicals issued are sum up in “Daily Consumption Register”. Then consumption of dyes and chemical are recorded in “Chemical Stock Register” (for dyes) and (for chemical) on daily basis. In chemical stock register there is identified page for each dye and chemical. Then in the last chemical and dyes with their available balance in sub store stock is written in “List of Dyes and Chemical with Their Minimum Stock Level”. Topping record is maintained by “Topping record register” Daily Stock taking Store supervisor collect all the “Dyes and Chemical Issue Slips” which are issued to dying department during the same day and recorded their quantities (dyes / chemical) in “daily consumption register” and then sum up their quantities. Then summarized quantities of dyes and chemicals are recorded in a chemical stock register separate for dyes and chemicals. In this



register total quantity of dyes or chemical issued is recorded date wise. Then actual balance is calculated as. Previous balance – Issuance = Present balance. Meanwhile, if chemical/dyes received in sub store then balance is calculated as. Prev. Balance + Quantity received – issued quantity = Present balance. STORAGE CONDITIONS Store’s own conditions are much important for storage of dyes and chemicals. Proper circulation of air, exhaustion, suitable light arrangement, smooth floor, and racking are some prime conditions for a store, and most important he temperature should be suitable for dyes and chemicals. However following things should be kept in mind during storage. 1. Powdered and liquid dyes should be placed at suitable

distance from each other. 2. For easy identification dyes and chemicals should be placed in

racks with their brand names and separated by their types i.e. reactive, disperse, vat etc.

3. During storage dyes and chemicals should be stored in such a way that they do not contaminate their surrounding chemicals and dyes.

4. Dyes and chemicals should be stocked separately. 5. Storage conditions recommended by manufacture/supplier

should be kept in mind during stacking. 6. To avoid any short circuit use branded electrical wires. Handling of chemicals & dyes Following precautions should be kept in mind for proper handling of dyes and chemicals. 1. Handling instructions should be strictly followed as

“mentioned on each chemical or dye” or on SDS of that chemical / dye, provided by manufactured.

2. During weighing dyes / chemicals should be taken in such a way that they do not contaminate, floor, and balance or surrounding chemicals.

3. Wear personnel protective equipment i.e. gloves, goggles, dust mask during handling.



4. In case of any accident the following precautions should be kept in mind.

If any dangerous chemical fell on cloths or body, remove cloths and wash that part of body with plenty of water and keep the patient calm.

After first aid patient should be taken to doctor. DYES AND CHEMICALS MIXING PROCEDURE Colour man weight out different dyes / chemicals according to recipe. These dyes and chemicals are put into different plastic drums. Add about 20 – 25 Liters water either hot or cold according to the chemical nature of dye stuff. Now these dyes and chemicals are mixed in mechanical mixer for certain period of time. Then color maker transfer this chemical / color mixture to feeding tank and remaining chemicals are added into it. Then water is added to make volume up to the mark. Then tank stirrer is started and before feeding to pad dry colour maker take a spot of dye mixture on white piece of fabric to check out shade. This process can be explained by few examples. Example No. 1

Shade = khaki Quality = 402*402

132*84 Blend Ratio = 100% Cotton

Dye/ Chemical Recipe g/l Recipe for 500

Ltrs. Ind. Yellow 3R 0.33 170 gms. Ind. Olive CT 5.60 2800 gms. Ind. Brown BR 3.0 1500 gms.

Alginate 10 5 Kg S-BL 2 1000 gms Procedure Weight Ind. Yellow 3R, Ind. Olive CT and Ind. Brown BR respectively. Now take 20 – 25 Ltrs normal water in a plastic drum of about 60 Ltr capacity, and put mechanical mixer into it, add dyes, S-BL, N.S 100 (anti-foaming agent) and Alginate into it during stirring for about 5 minutes. Then carried to feed tank No.4 having 1000 Ltr capacity, stirred and finally send to pad dryer.



Example No.2 Shade = metro green Quality = 402*402

128*72 Blend Ratio = 100% Cotton

Dye Stuff g/L for 750 Ltrs. Levafix yellow 7.9 5925gms. Levafix blue CA 7.0 5250 gms. Levafix red CA 2.1 1575 gms. Alignate 30 22500 gms Revatol S 5.0 3750 gms Procedure First Weight dyes. Now take 100 Ltrs normal water in the dosing tank of about 1000 Ltr capacity, and add dyes, R-s, N.S 100 (anti-foaming agent) and Alginate into it during stirring, finally send to pad dryer. Example No.3

Shade = Peach – 122 Quality = 20 x 20 / 94 x 60 Blend Ratio = Cotton 65 % Polyester 35 % Dyestuff g/L for 200 Ltrs Dianix Y-Brown S2 R 0.77 154 Dianix Rubine S2 G 0.35 70 Dianix Blue Ice 0.12 24 IND. Yellow 3 R 1.15 230 IND. Blue CLF 0.33 66 IND.Red FFB 2.16 432 FFAM 15 300 Setamol BL 1 200 IND 2 400 Procedure Weigh amounts of dianix blue ice, rubine S2G, Y-brown S2R, IND.blue CLF, yellow3 R, and red FFB sequentially in a ploythene bag. Take approx 20 Ltrs steam hot water & add 5-10 Ltr of Normal water into a plastic drum. Stir into it by mechanical stirrer and add all dyes and setamol BL 200 ml approx continue stirring for about 15-20 min. Take dye mixture into feeding tank of 1000 Ltr capacity, add FFAM and IND and finally add to pad dry 2



CONDITIONS FOR DYES AND COLOR MAKING There are some conditions which are applied for dyes and colour making. Few of them are discussed here. Condition for dyes Different dyes required different conditions depending upon their nature (class) DYE CLASS TEMPERATURE AND TIME CONDITIONS Reactive Mixed at 30-35 Co of water 5 min. Vat Mixed in normal tap water for 5-10 min. For dark

shades slightly hot water is taken. Disperse Mixed in water of temp 50-60 C fro 15-20 min Pigment Mixed in normal temperature water for 5-10 min There are some exceptional cases in each dye class for temp and mixing time i.e. Reactive turquoise blue disperse Rubine take more time for mixing. Conditions for chemicals Chemical conditions are also important. Some are as follows.

i) More dense chemicals mixed for more time then other i.e. solidokol P-35.

ii) As kollasol IND “Wetting agent” is much denser so certain amount of steam hot water is added in it for proper mixing, into dyes.

iii) Powdered form chemicals should be thoroughly mixed to dissolve solid contents property.

iv) Chemicals should be filtered before transferring into feeding tanks.

Feeding System & Line Washing System Feeding Tanks of different capacity are installed for pad Dry 1 and 2, in such a way that they can easily feed dyes and after feeding, lines are washed properly. For this purpose last two tanks of capacity 300 Ltrs having steam heated water and 600 Ltrs having normal tap water are installed. The remaining 3 or 4 feeding tanks are used for dye solution preparation. For dye feeding respective valve is opened so that dye from main supply line feeded in to pad dry after maintaining proper presser through pumps. Pad dry is rinsed with dye, 2 to 3 times to take actual concentration in it.



As water feeding tanks for washing are installed at the end of main supply line, so when dye feeding is completed then water tank value is opened to main supply so that whole line is washed properly. For line washing either hot or normal water is fed into main line depending upon the nature of dye i.e. for disperse dyes steam hot water is used with normal water. In case of dark shades of vat dye sodium hydroxide and sodium hydro-sulphite in certain amount is added into steam hot water for proper washing as vat dyes are soluble in water in the presence of these chemicals. Note

i) After volume make up of dyes solution keep in mind that all the values of water in feeding tank i.e. normal water supply, chiller water supply and showering pipe values are completely closed to avoid any further dilution in dye solution.

ii) Before feeding into pad dry remember that all adjoining values to main supply line are close properly especially of hot.

iii) To avoid from mixing due to leakage normal water tank is emptied during feeding of dyes.



Most frequently used brands of dyes/pigments in dyeing department

Brand Name Class Manufacture 1 Remazol Reactive Dye Star 2 Levifix Reactive Dye star 3 Cibacron Reactive Ciba 4 Drimarine Reactive Clariant 5 Indanthrene Vat Dye Star 6 Cibacron Vat Ciba 7 Dianix Disperse Dye Star Pigments 1. Halizrin Pigment BASF 2. Imperon Pigment Dye Star List of most frequently used chemical in dyeing

Sr. No.

Brand Name Purpose / Usage Manufacturer

1 Primasol NF Wetting Agent BASF 2 Ciba Floe PAD Wetting Agent Swisstex 3 Calsolin Oil HS Wetting Agent ICI 4 Kollasol IND Wetting Agent CHT 5 Primasol FFAM Migrating Inhibitory BASF 6 Solidikol 35-P Migrating Inhibitory Clariant 7 Irgapadol MP Migrating Inhibitory Ciba 8 Revatol-S Anti Reducing agent Clariant 9 Sitamol BL Dispersing Agent BASF 10 Globperse-DA Dispersing Agent Glob Chem 11 Antifoam SI-2 Antifoam ICI 12 Albatex FFC Antifoam Ciba 13 Chemrite NS Antifoam Imporient Chem 14 Globperse RWA Washing Agent Glob Chem 15 Dekol SNS Washing Agent BASF 16 Acetic Acid PH Controller Local 17 Invatex AC PH Controller Ciba 18 Neutracid NCS PH Controller CHT-Pak 19 H2 O2 Oxidizing agent Taiwan 20 Pot.Di Chromate Sulpher dying Local 21 Sodium Acetate Sulpher dying Local

22 Sodium bi Carbonate

Reactive topping Local

23 Soda ash Dye Fixing agent ICI 24 Urea Moisturizing agent FFC



25 Sodium Sulphide In sulpher dying Local 26 Acetone For cleaning Local 27 Glauber Salt For Dye Exhaustion Tufail Chem 28 Refined salt For Dye Exhaustion Al-Noor Trading 29 Caustic (Flakes) For Dye Fixing Sitara Chem 30 Sod. Hydro Sulphite Reducer Clariant 31 Hel Binder Binder Clariant 32 Binder MTB Binder Clariant 33 Binder ET Binder Clariant 34 Binder FWT Binder Clariant 35 Dexter.

Monohydrate Binder Clariant

36 Ladiquest Sequestering agent Clariant 37 Penetrant HF Penetrating agent Clariant

LIST OF DYES / PIGMENT USED IN DYING AREA Reactive Dyes REMAZOL LEVAFIX DRIMARENE CIBACRON Black CA Scalet CA Black Cl-Grpen Red C-2BL Golden Yellow RGB

Rubine CA Yellow k-2R Yellow C-RG

Navy RGB 150%

Yellow CA Turquoise Cl-BN Turquoise H-GN

Deep Black RGB Fast Red CA Blue Cl special Red E-48 Black B-A 133% Red CA Red 4-BL Yellow C-RG Brilliant Blue BB 133%

Orange CA Orange k-GL Blue CR

Turquoise Blue G 133%

Blue CA Blue k-2RL Blue GFJ-MD

Red RGB Navy CA Yellow K-2R Orange BR Brilliant yellow 150%

Olive A Red Cl-SB 150 Red RBN

Black B 133% Brown P-6R GR 150%

Brilliant orange 3RN 133%

Grey PT-GE

Brilliant Blue RN Red-BHI Red Run Vat Dyes

INDANTHRENE CIBANON Deep Blue 5508 Navy Blue DB-



01 MD Blue RS Olive S-01 MD Blue RCL Blue GFJ MD Blue CLF Blue BC Brown RN Brown LBG Brown BR Red FFB Red FGL Direct Black KB Brilliant Green FEB

Yellow F3GC Yellow 3R Brilliant Violet RR

Orange 3G Olive C-T plus Olive T Olive T (china) Grey 5607

Disperse Dyes

DIANIX FORON Yellow S-6G Yellow S6GL Yellow brown S-2R 150% Yellow S-6G

Y. Brown S2RFL L-Yellow 10G

Y.Brown S2R Y. Brown XF Red 5GRL Red AM 86 Red S-4G L-Red G Blue RDGLN Blue BG Blue SE2RL

Turq. Blue SBLN Blue XF

R-Blue CC Turq. Blue SBG Navy S2GRL Navy S2G Navy XF Black S2BLN



Black AMB Black SR Rubine S2GFL Rubine S2G Orange 2GFS Violet S3RLN B. Violet R

Pigment Dyes

HALIZRIN IMPERON

Yellow FFG Yellow K-R Yellow FFGR Red K-GC Red FFGT Red KB Blue FFN Blue KB

Turq. Blue K-3G Black FFBr

Violet FFBT D. Brown KRT Green FFBT White FFRT

Acid Dyes

DENIM Black Brown Yellow Olive Red Blue

DYEING FLOOR MACHINES ON DYEING FLOOR

Pad dry -1

Company Monforts (Germany)

Model E.U.A KOMB

Year of manufacture 2002

Pad dry-2




Model E&A KOMB


Pad Thermosol (under erection)


Model EIN-/ AUSLANF


Pad steam-1

Company Sando Iron Works, Japan


Operational width 200cm Machine speed 150m / min

Pad steam-2

Company Sando Iron Works, Japan


Operational width 200cm Machine speed 150m / min

Pad steam-3 (under erection)

Company Red Flag Dyeing and Printing machines (China)


Padder

Company Kusters (Germany)

Model 22212-1800

MAIN PARTS OF DYEING MACHINE 1. Pad dryers

Two pad dryers on dyeing floor are working and third pad thermosol is under erection. If we stand in dyeing kitchen then on our left hand side there is pad dry # 1 and on right hand side there is pad dry #2 pad dryer consists of following parts.

1. Feeding section 2. Pad mangle 3. Wetting unit 4. Thermex hot-flue 5. Measuring and control unit (chamber atmosphere) 6. Steam injection unit



7. Outlet section

2. Scray There is scray in front of pad dry # 2 and not in front of pad dry # 1 through which we can get fabric in pilling manner in order to give enough time for stitching of fabric. The capacity of the scray is about 400-600 meter depend upon quality.

3. Cooling rollers There are two cooling rollers and from scray, fabric flows from these cooling rollers. The function of these rollers are,

1. Moderate the temperature of fabric, so that it will not raise the temperature of trough. 2. Because the temperature of trough should not be raised or varied. As the temperature of trough raised, if we are using reactive dyes, then it will may react with OH- of water which should be avoid also, this exchange of heat will may cause LCR problems .



4. Trough Line washing is done from dyeing kitchen up to the trough of pad dryer. Then according to the lab dip recipe, the dye stuff is pumped into the rough of pad dryer. But first we stitch the fabric to be died with the leading fabric and when the leading fabric passed the trough of pad dryer we fill the trough with dyestuff up to 55 to 60 liter. Line washing is some times done by not water or with 2% hydro and caustic.

5. Kusters Padder These padders are used to avoid the LCR problems i.e. shade difference in left, center and right sides of fabric. Central pressure of padder is hydraulic pressure and left and right side pressure of padder are pneumatic pressures. A graph is provided in the panel which shows that what pressure should be adjusted at left and right sides of padder with respect to central pressure. Here we have fixed the central pressure at 2 bar and then we adjust the left and right pressure according to requirement. If left or right side of fabric shows more depth then we increase the pressure. If it shows lighter depth then we decrease the pressure of that side of fabric. The kuster's padder should be adjusted here in such away that pickup should be 65%. 6. VTG It consists of vertically placed guide roller. Their purpose is to give aeration to fabric to some extent and to give reasonable penetration time of the dye into fabric. Also these rollers are Teflon coated to avoid stains on the fabric due to rusting and stickiness of chemicals. If these rollers are not placed in the flow of fabric and directly sent to IR chamber, the dye will remain at the surface and will not be present at the center of fabric. So, poor wash fastness will be resulted. 7. I.R Chambers There are two IR chambers in each pad dryer. These are the pre-dryers which are used to remove approximately 40% of water from the fabric.



The purpose of pre drying is to avoid the migration of dye stuff. I.R have more penetration power than an ordinary dryer and can evaporate water molecules from the inner core of fiber without coming out on surface.

Thus in this way evaporation of water is done from inner side of fabric without coming out on the surface and thus die will remain inside the fiber.

In I.R chamber gas is mixed with air. Mixing is done by sucking air with the help of blower and then mixing it with constant ratio. Gas air mixer flow in I.R Fuel gas carried from a in supply to I.R. chamber. Before entering into I.R chamber there is a filter which filters the gas then ahead of filter there is a gauge which is showing pressure of gas in mbar. At this point pressure is 10 mbar. Then there is a pressure reducing valve, which reduces pressure which indicates on next gauge. At this point the pressure to 80 mbar then again pressure reducing valve reduces pressure from 80 mbar to 60 mbar. Then after this guage there is a pair of solenoid valve which regulates the flow of fuel gas. For air there is a blower which sucks air from the atmosphere and filter it. There is damper in the flow of air, which will control the vibration of this equipment. After damper, there is a butterfly valve, which regulates flow of air, and then ahead of it solenoid valve is present which indicates the air pressure by giving signal on the panel. Then air and gas mixed in a ratio of 4/1. for proper mixing in mixing chamber swill plates are present which mixed the gas and air properly then this gas air mixture is carried to the I.R chamber, where it further divided into six parts i.e. three on each side of I.R chamber. The pressure of gas air mixture at burning point is 12 mbar. When this pressure reduces less then 10 mbar then the burner will automatically trip. The temperature range of I.R. chamber is 750ºC – 1200ºC.



Drying Chambers There are three drying chambers. In each chamber there is a radiator in which steam is flowing. Besides there is a blower which sucks air from the atmosphere and circulates this air by centrifugal action in whole chamber. Therefore it will result in heat transfer from steam in radiator to the air circulating in the chamber. And the condensed steam is collected at the other side of chamber. In each chamber there is a dancer for compensating the tension of the fabric. In 2nd and 3rd chamber there is a special roller before the compensator, which is used to shutdown machine if there is problem in the machine i.e. whether the compensator is not working properly or tension is becoming out of order. There is a indicator instrument attached to this roller and it will give signal to the panel when this roller change its position and machine will shutdown. In 1st chamber, rollers are Teflon coated to avoid sticking of chemicals to the rollers which will effect the fabric. Also PLEVA is present in each chamber which shows %age humidity within the chamber on the panel. There is a gauge on each dryer which is showing the balance of air inside the chamber. If it is at 0 (neutral), it means air in upper and lower side is same. If positive + , then it means air in upper side is more then lower side and if it is negative- it means air in lower side is more then air in upper portion. However, here the neutral condition is desirable.

One more lever is present which is used to adjust the air to be exhausted from the chamber. A filter is present on the bottom of



chamber, which collects the fluff and is time to time remove from chamber.

Cooling drums If the fabric is not to be cured then it should be cooled down to at least room temperature to get the fabric in the trolley. For this purpose, in these cooling drums, cooling water or normal water is flowing which lower down the temperature of the fabric. However, if fabric is to be cured then water is not circulated in these drums because in curing hot fabric is required rather then cold fabric. Outlet Section The fabric comes out after dry from pad dry

Pad dryer specifications

Model Thermex C - C – C Height: 5.5 m Length 31.7m Fabric speed 6 – 120 m/min VTG 12m of fabric Gas air mixer pressure 60-80 mbar No. of dryers 3 Rollers 40 + 40 + 40 = 120 Nominal width 200 cm Working width 180 cm Fabric (48 + 48 + 48) = 144 meter Width among transport rollers of dryer = 960mm Diameter of transport rollers = 140 mm



CURING MACHINE: Following are the parts of curing machine Inlet section This section is used to enter the fabric to the machine, by means of guide rollers, tension rollers. Hot drums Steam is directly insert inside the drums from one side of each drum. After hot the drum condense out from other side. There are four hot drums. The purpose of hot drums is to hot the fabric so that when fabric inter in the hot chamber the uneven dyeing may be occur.

Curing Chambers There are two curing chambers. These chambers are use for the high temperature dyes fix up specially for polyester. Polyester required a high temperature for pick the dyes particles. Above 200c polyester molecules are convert in their vibrating form so when they are vibrate dyes particles goes inside the polyester fibers so that disperse dyes molecules have very small molecular size. These chambers are same as drying chambers of pad dry machine but there are difference of heating system. There is use thermo oil for heating purpose but the mechanism is same as pad dry.

Cooling drums After drying chambers fabric is out in hot condition cooling drum are use to normal the temperature of the fabric. There are four cooling drums of stainless steel. Water is use to cool the drums by continuous passage of water. Water is enter from one side and out from the other side.

Curing specification

Model Thermex B-B No. of chamber 2 Nominal Width 200 cm Working Width 180 cm Fabric (34 + 34) = 68m Fabric speed 5 – 100 m/min Rollers (28 + 28) = 56 Demeter of transport rollers = 140mm Width among transport rollers of dryer = 960 mm



PAD STEAM MACHINE Parts and portions of pad steam are following. INLET SECTION

Inlet consists on following parts. a) Plaiter b) Tensioner rollers c) Free guide roller d) Stationary rollers.

Plaiter In case of trolley fabric inter into the machine with help of the plaiter. It working motion is to and fro . Fabric is uptake by plaiter.

Tensioner roller It consists of the two rollers that are combined with each another. Fabric is passed through these rollers and tension can be set by change the angle of rollers. Free guide rollers These rollers are use to save the fabric to tough the machine and flow of fabric from one place to another. These rollers are not driven by any motor but run with the tension of the fabric. Stationary rollers These rollers are not move but only give a low tension to the fabric. Scray It is a j shape box which use to store the fabric in the form of piling. Fabric is pull by the draw roller and store in the scray. Capacity of the scray depend on the quality of the fabric. Light quality like 40 x 40 can be store 600 meters and heavy quality like 7 x 7 can be store about 250 meters. Scray is only use in pad dry 2 machine not in pad dry 1 machine.



PADDER Pad steamer is used for the fixation of dye on to the fabric. There are two pad steamers i.e. pad steam 1 and pad steam 2. Addition of chemicals for developing or fixation of dye is held in the trough of padder. This addition of chemicals into the trough is done by the dosing pumps. The level of the trough should be maintained. The padder are LCR as in the pad dryers. The central pressure is the hydraulic pressure and on left and right there is pneumatic pressure. After padding fabric flows to the steamer. All dyes and chemicals are mixed overhead mixtures. There are two pad steam machine for each there are four mixtures.

STEAMER Here in steamer temperature required for the fixation is given to the fabric. This temperature is achieved by saturated steam. This saturated steam is made by desirer pump. This pump mixes steam and water under pressure. The purpose of using saturated steam is that the chemicals used for developing should not dry on the surface of fabric preventing fabric from stains. Its temperature is kept at 101ºC. The main purpose of steamer is fix the dyes stuff and chemicals on the fabric and give a proper time for fixation. This steamer is same as desizing steamer but there are some differences

• Less no. of rollers than desizing chamber. • Saturator steam is use in this steamer. • Water dropping for lubrication.

WASHING BOXES After steamer fabric flows from 14 washers. Most commonly first to four washers are used for washing of salt or chemicals which are being applied in trough of pad steamer. In 5th, 6th washer, oxidation is done if required. If oxidation is not required then soaping is done in 5th, 6th washers. Otherwise soaping is done in 8th washer. In 14th washer invatex AC is added if required to control the pH of the fabric. DRYING DRUMS In the last of the pad steam machine, there are three groups of drying cylinder for dry the fabric. Each group has 12 hot cylinders but last one has 10 hot and 2 cool cylinders. All the cylinders are Teflon coated. Steam is passed inside the cylinders and hot them. The condense is also out from this point of entrance of steam. Last



two are cooling to normal the temperature of fabric. The water is passed inside enter from one side and out from other.

OUTLET SECTION Fabric is come out from machine by plaiter in trolley and come to the next machine.

Block diagram of pad steam

DYED SAMPLES



FINISHING DEPARTMENT





In-charge: Mr. Salman Zulqadar The finishing process is carried out to improve the natural properties or attractiveness of the fabric and to increase it's serviceability. Every natural fiber is noted for some properties but lacks some properties which are essential during it's end use. FINISHING TECHNIQUES There are a lot of techniques to finish the fabric which depend on,

• Nature of the fabric • Physical properties of the fabric • End-use • Special effect • Chemical modification

PURPOSE OF FINISHING The purposes of finishing are,

• Improve the appearance • Improve the feel • Special properties (water proofing, flame proofing e.t.c.) • Covering the faults of fabric • Increase the weight of fabric

TYPES OF FINISHING The finishing is divided mainly in two classes,

1. Mechanical finishing 2. Chemical finishing

1. Mechanical finishing

a. Temporary 1. Calendaring: Swizzing, Friction, Chasing, Schriner,

Embossing, Felt 2. Beetling

b. Durable 1. Raising. Sueding or Peach Finish 2. Shrinkage Control Finishes



2. Chemical finishing

a) Temporary

1) For Handle and Appearance: Softening, Weighting, Stiffening, Lustering (other than Mercerizing)

2) Special Effects: Water Repellence, Flame Retardancy, Mildew Proofing

b) Permanent 1. Crease Recovery, Silicone Softening

2. Water Repellence, Flame Ratardancy, Mildew Proofing, Soil Release

Finishing is carried out at Sapphire in different ways,

• After mercerization or bleaching (Peaching) • After bleaching or mercerization (OBA) • After dyeing (required finish)

FUNCTION OF FINISHING DEPARTMENT The functions of finishing department in sapphire are,

1) Equalize 2) Heat-Set 3) Finish 4) Topping 5) Curing 6) Peaching 7) Sanforizing

MACHINES USE FOR FINISHING Stenter-1 Model BF MONTEX 5000 Year of manufacture 2002 Company Monforts (Germany) Stenter-2 Model E & A KOMB Year of manufacture 2003 Company Monforts (Germany)



Stenter-3 Model EIN-/ AUSLAUF Year of manufacture 2006 Company Monforts (Germany) Peaching-1 Name Micro Sand Year of manufacture 2003 Company Lafer (Italy) Peaching-2 Name Micro Sand Year of manufacture 2003 Company Lafer (Italy) Peaching-3 Name Micro Sand Year of manufacture 2003 Company Lafer (Italy) Peaching-4 Name Micro Sand Year of manufacture 2007 Company Lafer (Italy) Sanforizing-1

Model EUA KOMB Year of manufacture 2002 Company Monforts (Germany) Sanforizing-2

Model EUA KOMB Year of manufacture 2002 Company Monforts (Germany)



STENTER In sapphire finishing, there are three stenters,

1. Stenter-1 (needle type with per-drying and curing)

2. Stenter-2 (clip type) 3. Stenter-3 (both clip and needle are

present) Process Flow

INLET SECTION

SCRAY

PADDER

DRYING CHAMBER

MAHLO

STENTER

CURING CHAMBER

OUTLET SECTION

OUTLET SECTION

COOLING DRUM

PROCESS OF STENTER

Trough

Its purpose is to keep the chemicals so that when fabric passes through it, it picks the chemicals present in it. Its level is adjusted on the control panel so that it keeps the same amount of chemicals. When its level goes down, automatic valve starts feeding the chemicals. When it starts going above the required level, this valve stops feeding. Water jacket is present outside the trough. Chilled water from chiller is circulated inside this jacket to keep it cool because when fabric enters in the trough, it increases its



temperature. And due to increased temperature, silicone emulsion will be destroyed and silicone will return to its origin form. When it happens, silicone will give spots of oil on fabric which are not removable. So we have to cool down the trough. Padder

It is an Kusters padder present on Stenter-1. Its pressure of

rying chambers

centre, left and right can be adjusted separately. Its purpose is to squeeze the fabric so that 65% pick up is obtained. In finishing it is adjusted just like nip and no special kind of work is being obtained from it. Pressure of centre is adjusted is by hydraulic pressure and of sides is adjusted by pneumatic pressure. But Monfort padders are present on Stenter-2, 3 in which the sides pressure is adjusted by pneumatic pressure.

D

On Stenter-1, two drying chambers are present but not on the other

Mahlo

Stenter, These are being used as predryers. These are used when we have a large production and we have to rum the machine at high speed. Their specification is same as that of curing.

It consists of 7 rollers. 3 of them are banana rollers and 3 consists of

steel rollers of simple type. Banana rollers are used for bowing and other 3 rollers are used for skewing. 4 small instruments are used for measuring the amount of skew and bow in the fabric and then adjusting the skew and bow rollers automatically. These instruments show reading on control panel and use the mechanism of light transmittance and reflectance. They throw light on the fabric and



measure the amount of light reflected or transmitted. The mechanism of bowing or skewing is that when pressure is applied on any part of the fabric, then that part remains backward and the other part due to looseness goes forward and thus we can get rid of bow or skew can be created in the fabric. Skew is the requirement of some garments companies.

Most often it is run on manual control and we enter the required data

hree rollers between the Mahlo and the Stenter facilitate to change

Stenter hain

and fix the speed of machine so that it remains fix and don’t change during processing. Amount of moisture is shown on the panel. Tthe flow rate of fabric according to our consent. We can change the speed of motors of these rollers to change the flow rate. It facilitates to get proper pinning of fabric.

c

Two types of Stenter are present. One Stenter has pins to hold the

otal no. of chambers in Stenter are eight. Temperature of every

fabric and take it through Stenter chambers. Other Stenter has chains to hold the fabric. On pin system Stenter, fabric is pressed on these pins with the help of small roller fitted with the motor and then pressing by brush like roller to press completely the fabric on pins. A sensor is fitted which sense the presence of fabric. If fabric is not present, it stops the machine immediately. Tchambers can be adjusted from control panel. Every chamber has two motors. Half part of chamber is run by one motor and the other half by other motor. These motors circulates the heat inside the chamber. They are also called blowers. These motors suck air from inside the



chamber and then introduce this air in duck lining to heat up the fabric. Two major exhaust are fitted to exhaust the moisturized gases. Fresh air can only enter in the Stenter chambers from entry and exit points of fabric. A small instrument is fitted in every chamber which has a small rod present just above the fabric to know the temperature of chamber. A Pleva is fitted in the centre of Stenter to measure the humidity of air inside the chambers. Then the efficiency of exhausts can be adjusted according to the humidity of air. For width adjustment of Stenter, we have four points inside the chambers. Stenter chambers are heated by thermoil. Thermoil exchanges its heat by using heat exchanger. Thermoil moves inside the small cylinder like rods and heat up the cylinder. Air moves through these cylinder and gets heated. Then it is circulated by the blower inside the chamber. Speed of fabric in Stenter is so adjusted that dry fabric is obtained. At the end of Stenter chambers, a blower is fitted which sucks the fresh air and through it on the fabric coming out of Stenter chambers to cool down the fabric. Three small rollers are present at the end of Stenter chain. These are collectively called RMS (residual moisture sensor). It measures the amount of moisture in the fabric and gives signal on the control panel. An emergency stop is present at the end of Stenter chain. It consist of thread connecting with the sensor. When we press this thread, machine is stopped. Here, width of Stenter chain can be adjusted as well.

Air circulation



Cooling Drums

Then cooling drums are present. Fresh water is circulated inside these drums. Their purpose is to cool down the fabric. Then this fabric is collected in the trolley.

PEACHING There are four Peaching machine that are use to give soft touch to

e fabric. There are two types of Peaching machines

• Diamond emery rollers on drum (peach 1,2,3) • Brushes on drum (peach 4)

ROCESS OF PEACHING

he process of the Peaching machines are given below.

nlet section

th

P T

I

in machine by plaitor .There are small steam spray

Drum rollers

Fabric is enter pipe that use to give a little amount of moisture so that fabric become soft for next process.

here are rs. These rollers are coated

stain for rub the fabric surface. nd small rollers are driven in two

ifferent directions. 12 are run in clockwise and other in anti fabric and

drum rollers. The Peaching can be increase or decrease by high or een fabric and drum rollers.

One motor is rotating the big roller. Diamond emery is used on the small rollers which are also called Peaching rollers. Maximum speed

Tb

a drum that made by 24 rolley a emery that made by diamond

Big drum drive by a motor adclockwise. The peach is done by the friction between the

low friction betw



of machine is 35 m/min and min speed of machine is 8 m/min. Maximum drum tension is 1.5% while min is 0%. Maximum rpm of drum are 55 rpm while minimum rpm are 20 rpm. Efficiency of delivery brushes ranges from 0 to 100 %. First is fabric sensor

e presence of fabric. If fabric is not present in front of the sensor, then it trips the machine. which senses th

P-4

Brushing and suction

Brush rollers are present, one after the Peaching rollers and with beater above the Peaching rollers. Their purpose is to remove the fluff which is attached with the fabric and is produced due to



Peaching. Purpose of beater is beat the fabric so that it gets rid of fluff. Very strong sucker is present below the Peaching rollers and with the brusher rolls to suck the fluff. Four fans are present above the Peaching rollers to send the fluff downward so that it is easily removed from the fabric or Peaching section.

Specifications

Machine speed 8 – 35 m/min

Drum tension 0 – 1.5%

RPM of drum 20 – 55 %

Efficiency of brushes 0 – 100%

Votlage 400 V

Phases 3

Hz Frequency 50

Power 68.4 Kw

Nominal current 100A

Interruption Capability 35 KA

SAMPLES



SANFORIZING The main purpose of Sanforizing is to shrink the fabric warp wise & weft wise according to customer. It consists of following parts, Inlet Section It consists on the tensioner plaiter and free guide rollers. In the inlet section most important water showers jacket and water plate to wet the fabric for even the moisture. Steam cylinder is use to heat the fabric so that moisture inside the fabric almost same for better shrinkage. This steam cylinder has small holes for liberation of steam. This can produce stain on the fabric. To avoid this a piece of fabric roll on this cylinder so that steam can pass through this rolled fabric and can heat the fabric. Sleeve

Sleeve is the major portion of Sanforizing machine. It consists of a big rubber mounted on two rollers. It is made of special kind of rubber. It was 68 cm in thick when it was installed. As the time passes, it gets thinner and thinner and is used till 40 cm thick. Then it is replaced. Its surface is grinded and is intentionally made because only in this form it can hold and stretch the fabric. For grinding, a special kind of roller is supplied by the manufacturing company. This roller is attached with the sleeve after every 5 lack meters to grind its surface. The central large roller is internally heated with steam. This roller is very hot. Basically fabric is release on the sleeve at this position dry cylinder pressed on fabric for shrink the fabric. The shrinkage can be increase or decrease by increase or decrease the attachment are on the sleeve by adjusting between 0 to +20 or decrease at 0 to -20. Drying cylinder (PAM DRUM)

It consists of a large cylinder and two small cylinders. A blanket is mounted on these cylinders. This blanket is made of wool. The purpose of blanket is to hold the fabric and dry it. If it is not used, then it will not be possible to give overflow of fabric from sleeve section to the drying section. This part is basically for drying. Large cylinder is for drying of fabric and two small cylinder are used for heating and drying of blanket. All these cylinders are internally heated with steam. One special kind of roller is present at the end of this part. Its main purpose is to keep the fabric in centre. Its one side is fix and other side is movable. Movable side moves up and down according to the fabric position. Stamps can also be applied



on the fabric at the end of Sanforizing according to the customer requirement. Cooling drums

At the end of drying part, three cooling drums are present.

Their function is to cool down the fabric. Water is circulated inside these drums to keep these drums cool. Material flow in Sanforizing



CURING

These curing chambers are same as dyeing curing chambers but in these chambers length between upper and lower rollers is greater. These chambers are used to remove the polypropylene contamination. These are also use to fixation of special kind of finishes that are applied at high temperature. However, blend of lycra (polyurethane) can not be cured because lycra will be damaged at such a high temperature. So polypropylene contamination can not removed by curing from lycra blends. It consists of two chambers. The heating chamber is same as dyeing curing chambers. These chambers are heated by thermoil. Heat exchanger is present inside these chambers. Air is passed through this heat exchanger and increase the inside temperature of chambers. Motors are used for circulation of air inside these chambers. Air is fall on the fabric by ducks lining is present above the upper rollers and below the lower rollers. Maximum temperature of 230 is achieved by the curing. Two dancers are present in each chamber. Polypropylene contamination is removed at temperature of 210oC is provided for 3 minutes. Thus all polypropylene contamination is sublimed and fabric becomes free from polypropylene contamination. Outlet section after curing fabric is collect in the trolley under plaiter. Fabric is pull by draw roller.



FOLDING DEPARTMENT



F O L D I N G D E P A R T M E N T

In-charge: Mr. Lashkar

Folding department purpose is to inspection of fabric that process on the floor. Folding is the last department of processing unit in which not only the final inspection of the fabric but also this fabric will be packed and dispatched. Following are duties of the folding department.

Inspection Section Packing Section Dispatch Section

INSPECTION SECTION When the fabric received in the Folding with the document of fabric transfer report, the shift supervisor of the Inspection section. Then the supervisor duties the inspector to inspect the fabric in this way that each inspector will inspect one trolley on his inspection frame. Instructions about inspection are given by the supervisor are following.

Minimum and maximum piece length as customer requirement e.g. in between 30 to 200 meters.

Identification mark for faults e.g. colored or metallic stickers, plastic clip etc.

Average points per 100 m2 Cut a sample from start & end of every roller.

During inspection, three documents are made. Roll inspection report in which nature of faults, given points and meters are mentioned. Inspection summery for A-grade & B-grade in which the details of all rolls are recorded. INSPECTION FRAME

The fabric is inspected on a inspection frames as in grey. In this frames fabric comes from trolley on the table that made by white sheet under and upper sides lights are on. Fabric will be rolled on the other end of the frame. Speedometers (in meters & yards) are also installed for the measurement of the fabric. There are 14 frame.



INSPECTION PROCEDURE Every Inspector inspects the fabric on a special type of inspection frame, observe the faults shown on the fabric, following faults are checked. WEAVING FAULTS

Contamination

Sometimes fiber (other then cotton) of polypropylene, jute or hair mixed in the fabric during weaving. These contaminated fibers remained un-dyed after dyeing.

Cockled Yarn If fluff with starch pressed by machine in warp or weft then it is called Cockled Yarn.

Black End When the end is black due to oil or any other case is called black end.

Short End Any warp or end may be missing for a short length.

Double End In this case double yarn is found in end rather then the single one.

Miss Pick Any pick is missing is called miss pick.

Double Pick Double yarn in pick or weft is missing.

MECHANICAL FAULTS

Short Miss Pick If pick is missing at any point then it is called Short Miss Pick.



Short Double Pick In this case two yarns in pick are found for short distance.

Starting Mark When stops and then starts loom gives a stain on fabric in weft angle

Wrapping Mark

It is just like starting mark but here surface becomes very hard on weft side.

Lose End

Warp comes out of fabric and not properly stitched.

Kinks When new yarn is knocked either on warp or weft side it is pressed and become hard and swollen.

MENDING FAULTS

Hanging Thread

Any thread hanging on the surface of the fabric is called hanging thread.

Mending If slub is taken out or kink is pulled out then the space appear in the fabric and called mending fault.

DYEING FAULTS

Stains

During dyeing some stains are appear on the surface of the fabric may be due to foaming uneven mixing of chemicals etc.

Machine stoppage stain

When stop the dyeing machine due to any case a strip of differ color appear on the fabric surface.



FOUR POINTS INSPECTION SYSTEM

This system is an American standard point system in which

each fault gives numerical point from 1 to 4. This system is developed an understanding between the supplier and the customer. Every customer gives us range of average/penalty points per 100 m2/ y2

The point system is as follows: Point System:

Length of faults Point 1-3 Inches 1 3-6 Inches 2 6-9 Inches 3 Above 9 Inches 4

Penalty Points /100 m2 = Total L-Points x 39.37 Width x length Penalty Points /100 Y2 = Total L-Points x 36 Width x length Inspection summery is also made in which status of each roll is noted. This document shows the whole picture of the fabric inspected by the inspector. PACKING SECTION

In this section pack the rollers after inspection and pasted the “Shipping Mark” on each roll which was sent by the customer. Different customers demanded different style of packing, e.g. some customers demanded to pack the rollers in polyethylene sheet, some want first to pack the rollers in polyethylene sheets and stacked on the pallets (Dale). There are two type of packing style.

Sample packing

In this case rollers are only packed in polyethylene sheets with the help of packaging machine and pasted the “Shipping Mark” on each roll.



Special packing In this case rollers are first pack in polyethylene sheets and then pack it in polypropylene sheet. Shipping marks are pasted on some it. Grading A & B When the inspectors inspect the fabric after a limitation or if a fault continuously remain on the fabric then reject the fabric. This also check to supervisor for rejection if it allow so this roll give grad B and all fresh fabric go as A grad. Following faults are checked. DISPATCH SECTION After rolling the samples that are cut after and before each rollers. When our Quality Control Department separate each rolls in category A, B, C shade with request to standard. Then Packing Section staff mentioned this A, B, C on their respective roll nos. on the document ‘Inspection Summery’. Then this summery is transferred in the computer and a Packing List is developed for the lot. After this, now the lot is ready to go in the dispatch section. In-charge of the Dispatch section received “Order wise Production Summery” from Folding in which details about order; customer, fabric, A/G & B/G fabric, Cut piece etc are mentioned. Then the Dispatch staff updates their stock report after doing physical inspection. The lot is transferred from folding to the dispatch section with its packing list. There are two possibilities, for export order, only A/grade fabric will be dispatched however for commercial order, both A & B Grade rolls will be dispatched. The staff updates their stock daily and made the document in computer. Dispatch Procedure

When the fabric comes in the dispatch go-down, the concerned merchandiser made the dispatch program. First he made a “Gate Pass Request” to the dispatch department in which the details about order, customer, fabric & its construction, transporter & vehicle # are mentioned.



PROCESS FLOW FOR DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC PFGD & PFPD

PFGD means Prepared for Garment dyeing fabric. This fabric comes from finishing to the folding. Here in the folding first the complete inspection of the lot is done. Two small pieces are cut down from start and end from each of the roll, one is sent to the customer and the other kept in own record. After inspection A-grade rolls are separated and packed and will be dispatched on the request of Marketing department. PFPD means Prepared for Printing Dyeing fabric. This fabric comes from mercerizing to the folding. Here in the folding first the complete inspection of the lot is done. Further process will be the same as discussed above for PFGD. PRE-SHIPMENT SAMPLES

Some customers require small samples before bulk production. In this case R&D arranged the samples. Sometimes their inspection in PFD (Prepared For Dyeing) form is required, then these samples are received in the Folding from mercerizer. After inspection, these PFD samples are delivered to the Sample Room.

DOCUMENTATION

Various documents are made in the folding department from inspection to dispatching. Some are manual record and most of the record is computerized. Each document is contained the basic information like order (no. & type), fabric (construction, weave), Customer, Process type (Dyed, PFPD, PFGD) etc. Now a short overview of some manual & computerized documentation is mentioned below.

Fabric Transfer Report

This document is always made when the fabric moves from one department to the other. In this document detail of order, fabric, department which delivered, department. Which received and purpose of delivering are mentioned.

Daily Receiving Register

In this register record of all the fabric received in 24 hours are recorded. By this register we can search out any previous receiving by folding on any previous date.



Cancellation Report

Sometime some rollers are rejected due to shade out by the QC so in this case these rolls are considered to be cancelled and returned to folding for topping. Another case when the fabric quantity in dispatch section exceeded from the quantity dispatched then these extra rolls are returned to the folding department as ‘Excess fabric’. In both cases a ‘cancellation Report’ is made in which detail of returned fabric are mentioned.



QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT



QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

In- charge: Mr. Hafeez Quality Control is a system of check & balance for the monitoring of the processes applied on the fabric in our processing unit. They act like an independent body. Quality control can be divided into two parts

1. Quality Control 2. Quality Assurance

QUALITY CONTROL

It is the part of QC, which is responsible for monitoring the fabric on floor during different processes. QC inspectors are independent and standing on every machine and look after the process parameters, faults on the fabric etc. Their main works are

Monitoring the processes apply on the fabric from grey to folding department.

Check out the faults may arise on the fabric during any process

Take samples for Technical Lab for testing after every process this is also called on line testing.

If the inspector noted any problem in process first he informed the shift engineer of the concerned department and then informed his senior staff.

In case of major faults, technical problem or any other mishap then the inspector made a written report and forward to his manager.

ON-LINE TESTING On-Line testing mean to check out the results of the process on the fabric by applying the counter tests in technical lab. For this QC inspectors are monitoring every process and at the end of every process a sample is delivered to the technical lab to apply recommended tests. The results are issued by the lab on PMS (Production Management System). If the tests are OK then the fabric is allowed to go to the next department otherwise fabric is retreated.



QC Inspection Report Sr. # Greige Testing

1. Width 2. GSM 3. Shrinkage 4. Tear Strength

Perble Testing 5. Width 6. GSM 7. Shrinkage 8. Tear Strength 9. Absorbency 10. Remain Size 11. Whiteness

Mercerizing Testing 12. Width 13. GSM 14. Shrinkage 15. Tear Strength 16. Absorbency 17. Remain Size 18. Stretch & Recovery (in case of Lycra Fabric) 19. Skewness 20. pH

Pad Steam Testing 21. Width 22. GSM 23. Shrinkage 24. Tear Strength 25. pH 26. C/F to Laundering 27. C/F to Crocking 28. Skewness

. Stenter Testing 29. Width 30. GSM 31. Shrinkage

Sanforizing Testing 32. Width 33. GSM 34. Shrinkage 35. Stretch & Recovery 36. pH 37. Remain Size for PFGD



38. Absorbency for PFGD 39. C/F to Laundering 40. C/F to Crocking 41. C/F to Perspiration 42. C/F to Dry Cleaning 43. C/F to Water 44. C/F to Chlorine Bleach 45. C/F to non-Chlorine Bleach 46. C/F to Light 47. Pilling 48. Skew ness

QUALITY CONTROL LAB

• It is a sub section of Quality Control department responsible for the quality and shade of the fabric. Their work is started when the lot reaches in folding, where during inspection start/end of each roll is cut down and sent to the QC Lab for shading.

PURPOSE OF SHADING

The main purpose of shading is to give a facility to the customer. It tells the customer that so much rollers are of ‘A’ shade, so much rolls are of ‘B’ shade and in this way for ‘C’ shade. This will help the customer to cutting each shade separately to avoid any shade variation in the same garment. Secondly the customer comes to know that how much variation in shade is occurred in the whole lot. WATER FALL & FABRIC BLANKET

Some customers demand total cutting of the all rolls, some are demand Water Fall & Fabric Blanket. Water fall

In water fall, cuttings of 25x25cm of shades A,B,C of all the rollers are pasted on the cards in this way that all the A shades are pasted on one card and B & C are pasted on separate card. The purpose of water fall is to provide an idea to the customer that how is the ratio of A, B,C shades and how much variations are there among the shades. Shade Blanket



In shade blanket, cuttings of shades of each roll are stitched together in this way to make a blanket. Roll # are written on backside of the shade. Such shape of blanket is a special demand of the customer just to check out the variations among the shades. QUALITY CONTROL DOCUMENTATION Roll Packing Register (order wise) These are manual written register contained order wise information of the fabric inspected in quality. Details that how much fabric given ‘A’, ‘B’ & ‘C’ shade is are mentioned in the register. A register is allocated for one type of order like FE, NA, LM etc. and one page is allocated for one order which contained all details about order and about all shades in the order separately. Bundle Register Start and end of each roll of every lot comes in the QC and after shading, these pieces have to be stored in case of any inquiry in future. These start/ends are tied up in bundles and these bundles are given numbers and made their entries in this register. Shade Evaluation Card This document is actually a written approval from Quality Control to apply finish chemicals on any shade of any order. Actually this stage (after Pad Steam) is very critical because after this stage (in fishing) if the shade will out then it will be a great loss because in this case all the finish chemicals become useless. So that is why QC first apply the finish route on two/three 1 m small pieces and check out the after effects if the effect is close to the standard then the QC issue this document with their comments. Besides , routine details some findings are mentioned in this document as discussed below: WASHING OF DYED FABRIC Some customers applied special washes on the dyed fabric after making the garment to make a change the look after making the garment. These washes are like stone wash, enzyme wash, soft wash etc. In such cases these customers provide us after wash standards and their washing recipes. There are two purposes of these standards i.e.



• We apply the wash on the dyed fabric and standardized with customer’s standard.

• Secondly, sometimes if there is some variation between our shade and the standard then we have a margin to apply the wash and check the after wash effect which may close to the standard, and then we can easily pass the fabric.

STONE WAY SILK TOUCH WIPE OUT

1. Enzyme = 1g/l 2. Stones = 6 Kg 3. Water = 250 L 4. Temp. = 45oC 5. Time 45

min 6. Silicone = 1 L 7. Assisoft = 1 L 8. Time = 45

min 9. Temp. 40 oC

1. Enzyme =1 g/l 2. Water = 250 L 3. Temp. = 40 oC 4. Time 45 min 5. Silicone = 1 L 6. Assisoft =- 1 L 7. Time = 45 min 8. Temp. 40-45 oC

1. Enzyme =1 L 2. Stones = 1 Kg. 3. Water = 100 L 4. Temp. = 45 oC 5. Time 50 min 6. Silicone = 1 L 7. Time = 60 min 8. Temp. 40 oC

SAND STROM WATER LOAD SEA SITE 1. Enzyme =2 g/l 2. Water = 250 L 3. Temp. = 60 oC 4. Time 30 min 5. Silicone = 5g/l L 6. Assisoft =- 10

g/l 7. Water = 60 L 8. Time = 60 min 9. Temp. 40-45 oC 10. pH = 4-5

1. Stones =5 Kg. 2. Temp. = normal 3. Time 40 min 4. Silicone = 5 g/l 5. Assisoft = 10 g/l 6. Time = 45 min 7. pH = 4-5 8. Temp. 40-45 oC

1. Stone (Red) = 10 Kg

2. Water = 250 L 3. Temp. = 40 oC 4. Time 35 min 5. Enzyme = 1 g/l 6. Drain 7. Silicon =15 g/l 8. Assisoft = 10 g/l 9. Time = 45 min 10. Temp. 40-

45 oC



TECHNICAL LAB



TECHNICAL LAB

In-charge: Miss Shabana TESTS PERFORMED IN TECHNICAL LAB Following tests are performed in technical lab during processing of fabric. Grey Fabric Testing

1. Yarn count 2. Ends and picks per inch 3. Fabric weave 4. Fabric GSM 5. Width 6. Tear strength 7. For Lycra fabric Shrinkage test is also done.

Perble Testing

1. Tear strength 2. Width 3. GSM 4. Whiteness 5. Tegwa 6. Absorbency 7. Shrinkage 8. Ph

Mercerized fabric Testing

1. Tear strength 2. Width 3. GSM 4. Absorbency 5. Shrinkage 6. Skew and bowing test 7. Ph 8. Elongation if fabric is Lycra

Dyed Fabric testing

1. Tear strength test 2. Tensile strength test 3. Width 4. GSM



5. Shade 6. Shrinkage 7. Ph 8. Color fastness (light, perspiration, washing, chlorite and

non-chlorite bleach) 9. Pilling 10. Crocking 11. Elongation if fabric is Lycra

Finished fabric testing After finishing all the tests are performed. EXPLANATION OF SOME TESTS Tear Strength In tear strength test take at least one sample of each warp wise and weft wise. Sample should be 100*63mm Then warp or weft sample is put in the clamps of digital tear tester, and note down the reading of fabric torsion. Tegwa This test is done to check the remaining starch in fabric. Drop of tegwa solution is fall on fabric and note the fabric color within 5 seconds. Then check the appearing color and note the tegwa percentage reading by using tegwa scale. Absorbency

1. Strip Method Using a stamp cuts a strip of fabric. The strip of fabric 15cm lengthwise and 2.5cm widthwise perform absorbency test is conducted. 0.5cm mark from bottom and dip into the turquoise blue color solution for 5 minutes. Then immediately dry and measure the length with scale. Length is measured up to the color absorbed point.

2. Drop method A drop of water is fallen on the fabric and checks its absorbency. If drop absorb in 1 second then that fabric



has very good absorbency. And if water drop absorbs in more 5 sec then that fabric has poor absorbency.

pH test

1. Drop method

Usually this method is used to check the ph of white fabric. A drop of indicator is dropped on fabric and compares the color change with ph scale.

2. Boiling method

Usually this method is used for dyed and finished fabric. Takes piece of 10g fabric, cut into small pieces. Take 250ml water in a beaker and raise its temperature upto boiling temperature in 10 minutes. Then enter fabric pieces in boiled water and treated it for 10 minutes. Then keep the water and fabric in normal state temperature to brings the temperature of water at normal state. Then dip litmus paper in used water and note down the Ph.

Crocking test

Crocking test is done after dyeing and finishing to check the rubbing fastness properties of dyed material. Crocking is done with dry and wet sample.



UTILITIES SECTION



UTILITIES SECTION In- charge:-

AREAS OF UTILITIES SECTION

1. R.O.P.(Reverse Osmosis Plant) 2. Air Compressor 3. Steam Boiler. 4. Thermoil Boiler. 5. C.R.P. (Caustic Recovery Plant)

1. R.O.P (REVERSE OSMOSIS PLANT) The transfer of liquid from low concentration to high concentration from a semi permeable membrane is called Osmosis. The transfer of liquid from high concentration to low concentration under pressure from a semi permeable membrane is called reverse osmosis and this plant is called reverse osmosis plant. Purpose of reverse osmosis (R.O) To provide water of less T.D.S. as per requirements of different areas of plant. Procedure Major parts of R.O. plant are as follows,

1) Turbine 2) Sand Filter 3) Chemical dosing system 4) Cartridge Filter. 5) Centrifugal Pump. 6) Membrane system

1st Stage Membrane System 2nd Stage Membrane System

7) Mixing 8) Storage tank

Turbine

There are two turbine for water supply of R.O plant and production plant. The capacity of each turbine is 150 ton/hr.



Sand Filter Two turbines derived from two motors collect raw water from 700 feet depth at the back side of R.O. room. This water is then taken into sand filter tanks. In sand filter tank sand filter is fixed just below the middle which has the capability to filter particles up to 10 microns. The sand filter tank is washed with the counter flow of water to remove fungus collected on the sand filter. Water containing particles less then 10 microns will pass to cartridge filter. Chemical Dosing System Just before entering water from sand filter to cartridge filter, there is automatic dosing system of biocide and anti-scalant. The purpose of biocide is to make water free from bacteria and anti-scalant is to protect machinery from scaling. Cartridge Filter

The cartridge filter chamber contains 18 pieces having length of 36 inches each. This filter will resist particles greater then 5 microns to pass through it .Pressure of water at the inlet of cartridge filter is 48 psi and at out let is 45 psi which is due to some scaling in cartridge filter.

Centrifugal Pump

Pump used here is multistage centrifugal pump. Pressure of water at the entering point of pump is 45 psi approximately which is not enough for R.O. phenomenon. This pump increases the pressure of water from 45 psi to 200 psi. Membrane System There are two stages of membrane system.

1st Stage Membrane system. 2nd Stage Membrane system.

1st Stage Membrane system. First Stage membrane system consists of 6 long cylindrical tubes ranges from 1 to 6. Each membrane system consists of 6 pressure vessels. Water at pressure of 200 psi enters into this membrane system. In this stage certain amount of raw water is entered into the centre, which is called permeate. The remaining water which is



not permeated enters into the 2nd Stage membrane system. The permeate water has T.D.S about 20 to 35 ppm. 2nd Stage Membrane system Second Stage membrane system Remaining raw water from 1st stage enters into 2nd stage. Here the same process undergoes and remaining water goes into drain as rejection. Pressure at the inlet of second stage is 110 to 120 psi and at outlet is 60 to 70 psi. 80 % to 82% is permeate water and 20% is rejection. Mixing Water collected in the membrane system has T.D.S about 20 to 35 ppm. A certain amount of raw water with T.D.S 600 to 635 ppm is blended as a result of which 110 to 150 ppm T.D.S. water is obtained which is carried in product storage tank A. In blending 52 to 54 m3/ h permeate water blended with 6 to 8 meter cube /hour raw water. While 13 to 14 meter cube /hour is rejected water. Storage Tank

Water after store in the storage tanks and use when required. AIR COMPRESSOR Purpose To provide air free from moisture and dust for pneumatic purpose. Procedure

Air compressor consists of two parts.

Filtering system. Refrigerant system.

Filtration system Compressed air is sucked into the filter which is specified for the filtration of air. This filtered air is then enters into the rotary compressor, where oil particles mix into the air. This oil is used for the lubrication of shafts of compressor. Now this filtered air mixed with oil carried into the sump. Here oil particles settled at the base and air containing moisture is send to refrigerant system. The oil



collected at the base of pump is send back into the rotary compressor which is reuse again and again. Refrigerant system The purpose of refrigerant system is to remove moisture from air. The moistened air free from dust particles is collected in refrigerant system, where it is condensed to remove moisture. Now this condensed air free from dust and moisture is used for pneumatic purposes. STEAM BOILER There are three number of boilers in Sapphire two are working having a capacity of 15 ton/hr steam generation and one boiler is under erection which have the capacity of 25 ton/hr steam generation. All these boilers are fire tube boiler. Purpose The purpose of steam boiler is to provide steam as per requirement of different areas of the plant. Procedure Steam boiler contains following significant parts. 1. Water softening plant (not in use) 1. Feed water tank. 2. Steam generation 2. Feed water tank Water from softening plant carries into the feed water tank. Here the water is heated up to 75-85C by steam taken from steam header. Certain chemicals are also added in this water tank. The purpose of addition of chemicals and heating by steam at such temperature is to remove carbon dioxide and oxygen from water. From the side of this tank is the volume level measuring instrument for the identification of water level in tank. The capacity of feed water tank is 25 ton. 3. Steam Generation Boiler used, is shell and tube type heat exchanger. Hot gases are burn in tubes surrounding water in shell. There are about 325 tubes



inside the boiler. Heat is provided by combustion of the gases and combustion is carried by high pressure air. Fuel gases contain 1.8 psi pressure which is too high to catch fire. For this purpose a side small pipe with 0.5 psi fuel gas pressure is provided for ignition. Water is heated and a saturated steam of 150-160°C is formed. This steam is now carried into header from where it is provided to feed water tank and other areas of plant. The pressure of steam generate in the boiler is 10 bar. THERMOIL BOILER There are three Thermoil boilers in Sapphire Finishing Mills. Purpose The purpose of thermoil boiler is to provide heat to such plant areas where steam boiler is not capable to provide such heat. Procedure Thermoil boiler consists of following parts.

1. Cylindrical pump 2. Main boiler chamber 3. Booster pump 4. Thermoil storage tank

1. Cylindrical pump The purpose of these pumps is to carry back oil from plant to main boiling chamber through circulation. Thermoil used is recycled again and again. 2. Main Thermoil boiler chamber Oil from circulation pump is carried into the main boiler unit. It is shell and coil (tube) type boiler where fuel gases burn in shell and oil in coil. Fuel gases have two lines small line with less pressure for ignition and main supply line to go into shell. Burner is of gun type where air from one side and fuel gases from other side saturates and carried into the main burning chamber. Some time we use furnace oil in the absence of fuel gases in shell. Thermoil boiler has the capability to produce temperature of oil up to 300°C. But our requirement is 268°C hot oil.



3. Booster pump Thermoil from main unit is transferred to plant through pressure by booster pumping system. C.R.P (CAUSTIC RECOVERY PLANT) There are two C.R.P. plant in sapphire. One is working having the capacity of 10 ton/hr of caustic recovery and second is under-erection have the capacity of 15 ton/hr of caustic recovery. Purpose The purpose of CRP as the name indicates is to recover caustic from plant and convert it into same quality as per requirement of plant. Procedure To understand the mechanism of CRP we have to go in detail. Caustic recovery plant consists of following main parts.

1. Preheater. 2. Series of evaporator’s and separators & Heat

exchangers 3. Sedimentation tank. 4. Storage tank.

Weak lye is received in weak lye storage tanks from production area (mercerizing). Here it is of about 4-8°Be approximately. Weak lye storage tanks contain filters at the exit point before entering into it. Weak lye contains water and fluff. In filter fluff is filtered out and lye is received in tanks. These tanks are associated with weak lye pump to which it is taken into preheater. 1. Preheaters Preheaters are three in number lying parallel to each other. These are shell and tube type heat exchangers. Main purpose of these pre heaters is to raise the temperature of weak lye. Vapors forming in the next three heat exchangers provide heating media in these preheaters. 2. Heat exchangers (Evaporators and Separators) Weak lye is then entered into a series of four heat exchangers. In first heat exchanger heating media is steam. As a result of heating large amount of vapors are formed due to raise of temperature up



to boiling extent. It will collect in the separator where vapors are separated and will use at heating media in the next heat exchangers. Then transfer of weak lye in next three exchanger is step by step. A vacuum pump is attached to last exchanger and vacuum increase in the ascending odder as 4 to 3 to 2 respectively. At last heat exchanger the required °Be is obtained and this strong lye with 38°Be is taken through heat exchanger A to cool the lye up to 35-40°C. Then this lye enters into exchanger CD 15 from where we pump the condensate into the sedimentation tank and condensate vapor is pump out. 3. Sedimentation tank The prepared lye then enters into sedimentation tank separate remaining fluff at lower surface. The fluff is sort out from lower side of sedimentation tank and prepared lye is send to storage tank for production. 4. Storage tank Strong treated lye is collected in this tank containing fresh lye also. Then it is sent to production again.


sapphire internship report

Documents

history of sapphire

foundation of sapphire

plant of sapphire group

sapphire electric company

sc textile engineering

multan internship report

bahauddin zakariya university

muhammad abdullah