Savour Life May 2012

Are Private Liquors Stores

Doomed? Vote for Remi’s Burger

It’s Cherry Blossom Time Winemaker Dinners

Profile: The Hollows Restaurant

Mark’s Beer Picks for Summer

On The Menu Fresh and Flavourful

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MAY ISSUE 3 Our Columnists 4 EDITORIAL/FEATURE Don’t Abandon Our Specialty Liquor Stores 7 SAVOURY BITES Profile: The Hollows Vote for Remi Cousyn’s Lentil Burger, Cherry Blossom Tours, the menu for the Royal Visit, Winemaker Dinners, Upcoming events, and more. 13 RECIPES Fresh and Flavourful: recipes to welcome in the sunshine 17 WINE He Said, She Said Wine Review, The Back Label: Private Liquor Stores: Should they be Saved? 22 BEER From Grain to Glass: Spring into Summer with Beer

Who We Are Publisher, Editor

CJ Katz

Editorial Rob Dobson Mark Heise

Theo Phillips Steve and Tracy Hurlburt

Photography

CJ Katz Tamara Klein iStockPhoto

How to Reach Us

Advertising cj.katz@sasktel.net

Mail

3706 Selinger Cr. Regina, SK S4V 2H1

(306) 761-2032

Savour Life Magazine is owned by CJ Katz. All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced by any means, in whole or in part,

without the prior written consent of the publisher.

Savour Life Magazine is available monthly.

Subscribe! Get the best of Saskatchewan food and drink every month direct to your in-box! Subscriptions are free. Drop me an e-mail at cj.katz@sasktel.net and I’ll sign you up! Savour Life Magazine currently reaches more than 10,400 subscribers. We operate with a dedicated team of writers who work to bring you the best editorial every single month.

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Rob Dobson – The Back Label Rob shares his thoughts (and hopes) on the future of private wine stores in Saskatchewan. You can drop

Rob a line anytime at savourlife-wine@hotmail.com.

Mark Heise – From Grain to Glass Summer heat, barbecues and backyard get together are getting into gear. Mark shares his picks for summer quaffing.

You can reach Mark at mark.heise@alesclub.com.

Theo Phil l ips – Saskatoon Correspondent Theo paid a visit to The Hollows, a new dining spot in

Saskatoon. If you have a favorite spot you want noted, drop Theo a line at theophillips@sasktel.net.

Steve and Tracy Hurlburt - He Said, She Said

Wine Review Our dynamic tasting duo is at it again! Agree? Disagree? Drop them an e-mail at:

yumyum@myaccess.ca.

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Bootleg – verb: make, distribute, or sell (alcoholic drink or a recording) illegally. Origin late 19th century: from the smugglers’ practice of concealing bottles in their boots. Source: The New Oxford Dictionary of English, 1998

The events of the past month, since the SLGA decided to pull the franchise license for Cava Wines in Saskatoon, have been nothing short of the stuff of which movies are made. Alleged bootlegging and tax evasion, forensic audits, bounced employee pay cheques, unpaid bills to Revenue Canada and bank foreclosure. It sure makes for some juicy reading and plenty of water cooler gossip but it’s also sending rumblings through the industry. Questions are flying: Is this the end of specialty liquor stores in Saskatchewan? Before you get on the e-mail and start blitzing my in-box, I want to be clear. I do not in anyway condone what transpired at Cava Wines. Breaking the law by systematically bringing in unauthorized and undeclared wines from a neighboring province to the tune of more than half a

million dollars deserves punishment. When Cava signed the franchise agreement with the SLGA, they agreed to abide by the laws and stipulations associated with that agreement — whether they agreed with them or not. The very sad aspect to this messy affair is the tremendous loss to Saskatoon, and to Saskatchewan. Cava Wines truly understood what today’s consumer was looking for when they purchased wine. Here are some of the ways Cava made a difference. • They provided wine customers with an

experience. If you ever had the opportunity to visit the store, located just across the street from the Farmer’s Market, you were in for a treat. On weekends there was always something happening — a winemaker in for a visit, or a table set up with three or four fabulous wines for tasting. Their Cellar Room with its full working kitchen presented regular gourmet dinners with

Don’t Abandon Our Specialty Liquor Stores

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wine pairings and guest chefs. Corporate businesses regularly booked the room to entertain clients or to reward employees. And it all happened in a hip space with walls the colour of a great burgundy, muted lighting the hue of a golden chardonnay, and cool jazz music.

• They empowered their customers and employees with knowledge. Cava knew wine. They helped expand the wine knowledge of its customers with wine dinners, tastings, and wine education. They ran a successful wine club that opened a whole new world of wine to people. It offered access to difficult-to-source wines, discounts on wine and services, loyalty points, and front-of-the-line access to attend winemaker

dinners and other events. It was also affiliated with the International Sommelier Guild to run certified wine classes.

It is profoundly disheartening to hear of the closure of Cava Wines. Stupid, misguided, and cocky decisions destroyed a valuable asset to the city. Cava may have been filling a need within the wine community but Mr. Rizos’ method of execution, it seems to me, was ill considered. In the end, disrepute was brought upon him, Cava Wines, and to some degree, the industry as a whole. A deep sense of betrayal no doubt has been felt by every person and business associated with Cava.

A selection of specialty wines sold at Cava Wines

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But, perspective is needed as we move forward. One bad egg doesn’t spoil the whole bunch and we hope that this mishap doesn’t mean that the specialty liquor store model is dead. We hope the SLGA keeps an open mind going forward. First, it’s clear that the public is profoundly disappointed at the closure of Cava. In the last decade, a new consumer has emerged who is demanding better quality wines. To illustrate, take a look at wine sales at SLGA stores: wine is the only category with uninterrupted growth. That speaks volumes. Second, consumers want to be better educated about wine. They are seeking out stores with knowledgeable staff, spending money on wine courses, wine maker dinners, and memberships in wine clubs. Third, with this new emerging demographic, we encourage the SLGA to re-examine not only the specialty wine store model, but also how and in what environment they market product in all their stores. Cava Wines understood this demographic and catered to them in a way that the SLGA, with its outdated approach to creating value and uninviting warehouse-style stores, does not. They added to the cultural fabric and sophistication of the province. Most liquor stores across the provinces (the 180 rural franchisees and the 79 SLGA run stores in mostly urban areas) are in desperate need of upgrading. Perhaps some inspiration can be taken from the LCBO in Ontario, which several decades ago realized that their customers were no longer content to shop in dusty, impersonal warehouses. Stores were

upgraded with inviting interiors, staff became better educated, wine writers were was invited to attend regular tastings of new product, and wine and spirit education was provided to the consumer. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, from forward thinking comes huge social benefit since revenue from liquor sales is funneled to hospitals and schools, and other infrastructure. By investing in upgrades, sales will increase. To illustrate, take Melfort. When a new SLGA retail store was built there, sales increased by 25%. There is no denying that the liquor industry in Saskatchewan is an important provider to non-revenue generating services like hospitals and schools. If the province wants more money for these sectors, then one way is to upgrade liquor stores and train staff. It’s time to move ahead and provide the consumer of today with the best shopping experience, which in turn can benefit many. The Cava saga is instructive for the SLGA and the provincial government. Please don’t let the avarice of a few ruin a good thing for many. Until next month,

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Cast Your Vote for Saskatchewan Lentils and Chef Remi Cousyn’s Burger ACROSS CANADA - May is Love Your Lentils Canada month and top chefs across Canada, including Saskatchewan’s own Remi Cousyn from Calories along with celebrity chef Michael Smith, are celebrating! Lentils are versatile, delicious, and healthy, making them a perfect fit for Canadian families. Canadian Lentils have paired up with Chef Michael Smith and Food Day Canada, an annual summer event to celebrate Canada’s finest ingredients and culinary talent, for the Love Your Lentils Canada campaign. Chefs participating in Love Your Lentils Canada have come up with their own mouth-watering lentil dishes to serve forth in their restaurants for the entire month of May. Restaurant diners can go online to www.loveyourlentils.ca and vote for their local chef and the lentil dish they sampled to recognize their hometown lentil hero. Be sure to log on and vote

for Chef Remi’s burger (pictured below). Love Your Lentils Canada is also encouraging Canadians to try some of the dishes at home by providing restaurant quality recipes, straight from the chefs! Anyone can take part by visiting www.loveyourlentils.ca to cast a ballot for your favourite lentil dish/recipe. And by going online to vote, you will be entered to win a trip for two to Prince Edward Island to celebrate Food Day Canada on August 4th with Chef Michael Smith and the chef who collects the most votes online for their lentil dish. Deadline to vote is June 4.

Savoury Bites

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Restaurant Profile THE HOLLOWS By Theo Phillips, Saskatoon Correspondent SASKATOON - Immerse yourself in an Emily Carr painting and imagine rummaging for fiddleheads, mushrooms and whatever provisions you can ascertain. Now, transplant yourself to Saskatoon and enter into the Hollows (334 Ave C South, www.thehollows.ca). Chefs Christie Peters and Kyle Michael have traveled the globe, creating in-the-moment and seasonable menus, and have brought their vision to Riversdale. Located in the former Golden Dragon restaurant, the eclectic decor is anything but posh (there are still remnants of the former Chinese restaurant). Instead, it is the menu that shines and makes each high quality ingredient the star of the show. Their goal is to create a casual, innovative and sustainable dining experience. How sustainable you may ask? They have created partnerships with many local food producers along with a unique barter arrangement with Happy Bug Farms: they trade compost for fresh herbs and produce. Everything in the restaurant is compostable from the corn-based straws to napkins and take out containers and cups. Even their deep fryer oil has a bio-diesel afterlife. Christie and Kyle purchase whole animals and do all of the hanging, carving and creating from scratch. Christie is currently working on a charcuterie board to serve her homemade venison, salami, chorizo and duck liver pate. Open since November 2011, their menu will shift with the seasons approximately four to six times a year with occasional

feature items. I was able to experience their outgoing winter menu where I indulged in perfectly cooked spicy green beans, and textured gnocchi coloured with seasonal vegetables. Their spring menu features local lamb, steelhead trout, peas, fava beans, asparagus, hummus, and rabbit. Also in cue are fir-tips, which are highly aromatic and can be infused into cocktails and entrees. “When made into a vinaigrette, fir-tips make an amazing addition to our smoked steelhead trout,” explains Chef Christie. Also apparent is both Christie and Kyle’s passion for quality and craftsmanship. There are no short cuts to their food preparation making their tight menu a work of art. It is the small details of the homemade pickles and pear butter that make this menu uniquely Saskatchewan.

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New Lunch Spot: Simmer REGINA - Simmer Hot Pot (2201 Broad St, Regina) is now open for lunch (11:30 - 2 pm Mon to Fri). The lunchtime menu is fabulous. No complaints here. You'll need a kleenex when you eat the Dumplings with Spicy Sauce! They are extremely flavourful with a well seasoned filling and slightly sweet but hot sauce. If you don't like your food too spicy, ask for it milder. The Chicken Meatball Vermicelli Soup (pictured front cover) comes in an ultra-flavourful broth with loads of meatballs and long, squiggly sweet potato noodles. Try the Grilled Beef Roll, a Chinese version of sausage rolls. The meat is prepared with onions, celery, and spices. Yum. The Simmer Roll reminds me of a cinnamon bun but not too sweet. This is a great spot. Dishes mostly run about $9.99 each. Lunch menu does not feature any hot pots so you can get in and out quickly. An excellent addition to Regina!

It’s Cherry Blossom Time!

LUMSDEN – Over the Hill Orchards is celebrating a special springtime event – the blossoming of its cherry trees! They will be offering tours this weekend (May 19 and 20) at 1 pm both days. Cost is $10 and includes a piece of cherry pie and a coffee. Call to let them know you’re coming at (306) 530-9133. The orchard will be spectacular! Also, Over the Hill is near completion of their new processing plant. Their grand opening is June 2.

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Royal Visit has Chef on 24-Hour Watch

Photo: Wikimedia Commons REGINA – As of Tuesday May 22, Executive Chef Milton Rebello of the Hotel Saskatchewan will be on 24-hour watch, eating and sleeping at the hotel to be ready at a moment’s notice to serve HRH Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall. With the Governor General and Prime Minister Stephen Harper also flying in, the coming week promises to be a busy one. Cooking for royalty comes with specific guidelines and Chef Rebello has been in regular touch with the palace planning the perfect menu based on the Prince and Duchess’ preferences. “Prince Charles is very passionate about local and organic ingredients. The seafood should be sustainable and regional,” says Rebello. All recipes and a list of suppliers and

producers had to be submitted for approval. Some interesting facts when cooking for Prince Charles and Camilla: no onion, garlic or chives; no chicken or pork but do serve game meat; and all meat should be braised or cooked to well done. Dinner upon arrival will include local beet and Gruyere soufflé, flax tuile, organic microgreens, cheese sauce on wilted spinach, poached salmon, twelve grain pilaf, steamed organic vegetables, apple tart tatin with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce. Breakfast the following morning will be fairly simple with fresh carrot and apple juice, fruit, organic yogurt, and Dr. Alis cereal and porridge. Dinner later that day will be an asparagus and saffron tart, mushroom lasagna, beetroot, cucumber and sweet corn salad, and fruit. We hope to get some photos of the meals to show you in next month’s issue. Meet Chef Jonathan REGINA – Crave Kitchen + Wine Bar (1925 Victoria Ave) wants to introduce you to their new Executive Chef, Jonathan Thauberger and celebrate summer. They are hosting an Endless Summer Wine evening on Wednesday May 30th featuring a 5-course meal with paired California wines including Joel Gott, Menage a Trois and Trinchero Family Estates. To read about Chef Jonathan, a Regina boy who has returned to the city after 20 years away cooking in some very impressive

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kitchens, read my article from the Leader-Post here: http://www.leaderpost.com/life/Taste+Regina+Chef+Thauberger+always+craved+career+chef/6624885/story.html Cost is $99/person including tax and gratuity. Cocktails at 6 pm, dinner at 6:30. To reserve, call (306) 525-8777. Winemaker’s Dinner REGINA – Gilles Nicault, winemaker at Long Shadows Winery (see last month’s article by Rob Dobson) will be in Regina for two days at the end of this month. The Willow on Wascana boys have been busy planning some great menus and wines for two days of fun. Wednesday May 30th will be a 3-course lunch paired with wines (still to be determined), and an evening 6-course dinner. The following day will be a mix and mingle, plus a 6-course dinner with wine. To reserve a space at any one of these events, contact the Willow at (306) 535-5334. Food, Music and Art with Chef Jenni PRINCE ALBERT AND AREA – Jenni Willems wound down the New Ground Café in the spring and has launched Chef Jenni. She’ll be touring around the province with her food, great music and art. One of her first stops is on May 26 in Prince Albert where she’ll be celebrating with al fresco appetizers and music by Zachary Lucky, art by Michelle Balych and a post dinner presentation by Barefoot Mick. On June 16 she’ll be in Melfort celebrating rhubarb. Music by Carrie Catherine and Hal Schrenk, and art by Gordon Bland. A month later on July 26 she’ll be in Waskesiu cooking with

boreal forest ingredients and the music of Gabe Penna and the Rising. Photography by Nathalie Matheson. Cost for each dinner is $50 per person. Call (306) 749-7051 for information on how to reserve space. Traditional Maritime Lobster Feast INDIAN HEAD – The Bell Barn Society will be holding their 2nd Annual Maritime Lobster Supper in the loft of the historic Bell Barn in Indian Head on Saturday May 26th. Tickets are $50/person, advance tickets only. Cocktails 6 pm, 5-course dinner at 7 pm. For tickets, call Connie at (306) 695-3456. For more information, including a map to the site, go to www.bellbarn.ca. Spargelfest: A Celebration of Spring REGINA – Germans love asparagus and even have a special festival to celebrate this early spring delicacy. Spargelfests happen all over Germany from mid-April until June 24. The German Club recently held a celebration to a packed house. Everything for the excellent 4-course meal was prepared in the kitchen at the club. The menu featured a cream of vegetable soup with asparagus, zucchini, carrots, potato and chicken; a green salad with asparagus, spinach broccoli, and cucumber; salmon with a delicate beurre blanc, rice pilaf, and pencil thin asparagus wrapped in a moist crepe; and finally plum cake with asparagus and finished with an asparagus sauce. A few Jägermeisters were also thrown in for good measure! It was an excellent evening and definitely a must-attend event next year.

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Food Photo Exhibition REGINA – I’m holding my first photo exhibition of my food photos and documentary food photography at 13th Avenue Coffeehouse (3136 13th Ave) from now until the end of the June. Drop in to view them and try some of the coffee shop’s amazing dishes. The rice bowls are fabulous as is their coffee! They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesday to Friday from 9 am to 9 pm. Saturday from 9 am to 8 pm. Closed Monday. They also have a liquor license. Farmer’s Market News

Linda Schropp shows off some spring asparagus at the Regina

Farmers Market • REGINA - The Regina Farmer’s Market

has moved outdoors to their new and permanent location on the new City Square adjacent to Victoria Park. They are now open on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 9:30 am to 1:30 pm. This is a great location with loads of room to browse. There are several new vendors this year: Rusty’s Wild Rice from Hudson Bay is selling premium wild rice, wild rice flour (gluten free), and wild rice flour pancake and waffle mix (not gluten free). Auntie Meme’s Cakes is selling a variety of cakes from large two and three tier iced varieties, to smaller mini Bundt ones. No additives or

preservatives — just the same ingredients you’d put into a scratch cake. The market will be at this location until October 6th.

• SASKATOON – May 19 is Food Revolution Day at the Saskatoon Farmer’s Market. The event is being held in support of Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution. Meet local farmers, enjoy a sample product and find out where your food is produced. There will also be interactive activities for the kids.

• Friday lunch buffets are back at the Saskatoon Farmer’s Market. Reservations recommended. Call (306) 370-0033 or (306) 975-2010.

Eatery Feedback Here is what some readers had to say about some of the Regina dining spots they’ve eaten at recently. • Michelle and Michael were at Tangerine

Food Bar on 14th Avenue for lunch. “The soup of the day was parsnip, apple and brie. “My husband couldn’t stop raving about it,” says Michelle. “I had the hummus, roasted red pepper and artichoke wrap.” It was their second time eating there and they are still very impressed.

• Keith T. ate at the little hut on 13th Avenue called La Cucaracha, which just reopened after the winter. “Two tacos for $7.50. Their buffalo spring rolls are nice.” Juris and his wife also ate there for the first time and say “it’s delicious. It’s a great little hole in the wall diner.”

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Bits and Bites • REGINA - Mosaic Festival of Cultures

starts on May 31 and runs until June 2. For information on pavilion locations, go to http://reginamulticulturalcouncil.ca/

• PRINCE ALBERT – Two by Dahlsjo is teaming up with Creekside Orchard in Melfort to present multi course dinner on the weekend of May 24, 25 & 26. Cost is $35 per person plus GST. To book a ticket, e-mail creeksideorchard@sasktel.net.

• REGINA – On May 31 from 6-9 pm at the Bushwakker will be the annual Soul Sisters Dinner and Concert. For tickets, contact The Room at (306) 757-7025 or the YWCA.

• REGINA – Slow Food (2124 Albert St) has opened an offsale in the restaurant. This is a much-needed service in an area with no nearby opportunity to purchase alcohol. They have a selection of wine, vodkas, whiskey, imported and domestic beers. They are open 11 am to 3 am.

• SASKATOON – Ryan Marquis has left his position as Executive Chef at the Delta Bessborough and has taken on a new position at Tabasco Canada. Replacing him is Executive Sous Chef Drew Hornell.

• SASKATOON – Chef Mike Link has left Soulieo Foods and has teamed up with Western Concessions at Credit Union Centre. He will be responsible for all the catering, kitchen renovations and VIPs.

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Book Review Foodshed: An Edible Alberta Alphabet Journalist, chef, poet and storyteller, dee Hobsbawn-Smith has taken on the monumental task of travelling the province of Alberta, speaking with producers, chefs and just about anyone connected with food and telling their story. Through her narrative, she has taken the concept of local eating past the very limiting 100-mile radius to make it far more inclusive. As she says “We do live north of the 49th, and our geography imposes limits, so I practice selective, pragmatic self-indulgence instead of self-deprivation. Fair trade coffee, tea, chocolate, olives, vanilla and citrus remain part of my pantry.” With that focus in mind, Hobsbawn-Smith, who now lives just outside Saskatoon, asks, “You know your doctor, you know your lawyer, you know your accountant. Who’s your farmer?” Foodshed takes you on a delicious and enlightening journey to from A to Z, from Artichokes to Zizania and all the culinary letters in between – think G for grass fed beef, I for icicle radishes, Q for Quackers, and U for unsalted butter. It puts a face to the food we eat with stories about more than 75 growers and producers, like Doug and Elna Edgar, growers of 28-acres of asparagus; Paul and Hilda de Jonge who own Broxburn Vegetables and Café and a strawberry u-pick and greenhouses stuffed with spicy hot jalapenos; and Gerwin and Esther Van Deuveren who raise Pekin ducks to supply chefs. Scattered throughout are lots of photographs as well as 26 of Hobsbawn-Smith’s favorite recipes such as Smoked

Fish Chowder with Chives, Pork Two Ways, and Tomato, Walnut and Cilantro Bruschetta, just to name a few. Each offers an invitation to help you make the most of what farmers, orchardists, fishers and ranchers have to offer. And while the stories are about Alberta growers and producers, their stories are relevant to anyone interested in sustainable eating. Foodshed is sure to take you on a journey beyond your local farmers market and into the heart of local living.

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Fresh and

Flavourful

On the Menu Ricotta Pesto Spread with Crispy Crackers

Green Salad

with Sweet Basil Poppyseed Dressing and Prosciutto Crisps

(pictured)

Coconut Crusted Fish

Vanilla Ice Cream with Flambéed Apples

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Ricotta Pesto Spread with Crispy Crackers Serve this spread on its own in a bowl with crackers on the side, or be a little fancy and sandwich it between crackers and garnish with fresh sprouts, as pictured. Serves 4 to 6

Spread ¾ cup (185 mL) ricotta cheese ¼ cup (60 mL) plain yogurt, preferably thick style ½ cup (125 mL) very finely grated fresh parmesan cheese 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tbsp (15 mL) basil pesto salt and pepper, to taste Crackers 1 package egg roll wrappers 1 egg white 2 tbsp (30 mL) water

anise seeds, for sprinkling fleur de sel, for sprinkling Garnish 1 tomato, seeded and diced spouts, such as spicy radish, pea shoots or broccoli Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, mix together the ricotta, yogurt, parmesan cheese, minced garlic, basil pesto, salt and pepper. Mix well and chill until serving time. Lay several egg roll wrappers on a clean counter. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg white and the water with a fork until slightly foamy. Using a pastry brush, brush both sides of each wrapper with the egg white mixture. Sprinkle one side only with the anise seeds and the fleur de sel. Using a pizza cutter, cut each wrapper diagonally in four to create four triangles from each wrapper. Place the triangles, seed side up, about ½ inch (1 cm) apart on the cookie sheet. Bake for about 10 minutes, or until lightly browned around the edges. Transfer the crackers to a cooking rack. Continue to make as many crackers as required. Serving Options: #1 – Party Dip and Crackers: Transfer the spread to a serving bowl, garnish with a mound of diced tomato and a few sprouts. Serve with the crackers. #2 – Sit Down Appetizer for 4 to 6: You will require 2 crackers per servings. Lay one cracker on a serving plate. Top with a mound of the ricotta pesto spread. Top with a few sprouts and about ½ tsp (2 mL) diced tomatoes. Top with another cracker, a mound of spread, sprouts and tomatoes. Serve immediately.

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Green Salad with Sweet Basil Poppyseed Dressing and Prosciutto Crisps (pictured on page 14) This lovely salad speaks of springtime! Serves 4 Prosciutto Crisps 4 slices prosciutto Dressing 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) orange juice 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely sliced fresh basil 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tbsp (15 mL) poppyseeds 12 spears asparagus, blanched or marinated 5 oz (142 g) mesclun greens or other delicate spring greens 8 dried figs, or fresh when available, sliced 1 orange, rind cut off with a knife and cut into segments 1 small block Parmesan cheese, for shaving Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper to prevent sticking. Lay the prosciutto slices on the paper, being careful not to overlap them. Bake, uncovered, for about 7 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. The slices will crisp as they cool. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, orange juice, lemon juice, basil, garlic and poppyseeds. Set aside. On a plate, lay three spears of asparagus and three orange segments. Top with a handful of mesclun greens and some fig

slices. Finely shave over some fresh parmesan. Drizzle over some dressing and top with parmesan crisp. Repeat for the remaining three portions. Coconut Crusted Fish The coating on this fish creates a delicious change from ordinary breading. Serve the fish with a side salad and baguette for a quick weeknight meal. Serves 6 2 lbs (1 kg) pickerel, bass or other firm fleshed white fish fillets 2 eggs ½ cup (125 mL) plain yogurt ¼ cup (60 mL) milk 1 cup (250 mL) shredded sweetened coconut ½ cup (125 mL) panko breadcrumbs ½ cup (125 mL) potato starch ½ cup (125 mL) unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tsp (5 mL) salt canola oil, for frying Rinse and pat the fillets dry. Cut each fillets into thirds. Set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, yogurt and milk. In another medium bowl, whisk together the coconut, breadcrumbs, potato starch, flour and salt. Heat a large frying pan over medium heat; add canola oil to lightly cover the bottom of the pan. Dip the fish pieces in the egg-milk mixture and then into the coconut-flour mixture. Fry on both sides until golden brown and cooked through.

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Orange Chutney Chicken Add some exotic flair to a long week with this easy chicken dish. It takes about 10 minutes to throw together, and then the oven does the rest. Serve it with rice and a green vegetable. Serves 6 2 lbs (1 kg) chicken drumsticks or thighs 1 orange, skin on ¼ cup (60 mL) chicken broth ¼ cup (60 mL) white wine 1 tbsp (15 mL) Indian-style curry paste, or curry powder 4 tbsp (60 mL) mango chutney 1 tsp (5 mL) ground cinnamon ½ tsp (2 mL) each salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Lightly grease a shallow dish large enough to fit the chicken pieces. Cut the orange in quarters. Then cut each quarter crosswise into thin triangular slices. Tuck the slices around the chicken pieces in the pan. In a large measuring cup whisk together the chicken broth, wine, curry paste, mango chutney, cinnamon, salt and pepper. Warm slightly in the microwave and then pour the mixture over the chicken. Cover with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil, baste the chicken and bake another 15 minutes, uncovered. Basting the chicken several times so the chicken becomes lovely and brown.

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Vanilla Ice Cream with Flambéed Apples Everyone needs an amazing dessert they can make on the fly. This one uses very common ingredients most of us have in our pantry and freezers – apples, brown sugar, butter and ice cream! Serves 4 4 to 5 medium apples, preferably Gala or Spartan 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter 1/3 cup (80 mL) brown sugar ¼ cup (60 mL) dark rum Vanilla ice cream, for serving ¼ cup (60 mL) toasted sliced almonds, for garnish

Peel and core the apples. Cut each apple into 8 wedges. Heat a skillet over medium heat. Add the butter, brown sugar and the apples. Stir well and cover with a lid. Simmer for about 5 minutes, or until the apples are tender. Remove the lid and stir gently until the liquid had reduced slightly. Add the rum and flambé (be sure to stand back). Continue to cook until the flames die down. Scoop the ice cream into individual serving bowls. Top with the warm apple mixture. Garnish with toasted almonds. Serve immediately.

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What’s in a Name? If you have been reading our tasting columns in Savour Life over the years you will have noticed our less than supportive views on so called ‘Critter Wines’. Seldom more than a vapid and soupy excuse of a wine they struggle graphically on the shelves to win our fleeting attention by plastering the front label with a cute animal while explaining how we are going to love the vinous experience contained within through the use of a two sentence world view/lifestyle statement on the back.

All that being said, Critter wines do have the dual advantages of being cheap and omnipresent. So when we spotted a $40 version of the ubiquitous [yellow tail] Cabernet Sauvignon that was in a regular 750 ml bottle and not some 2 litre plus monster bottle/box, we figured that something quite unusual was inside. Our second wine choice came from a very different source. The Robert Mondavi winery has become one of the most recognized wineries worldwide but most people who follow the wine business assume that the name and all it represents have been sold to a massive multinational beverage giant. Well, that view is only partially true; the Mondavi family still own/produce the Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Reserve wines and their share of Opus. So instead of trying one of the more common Mondavi value wines we figured that we would try a Reserve Chardonnay that is definitely not cheap by any definition. So what did we find when we tried these two wines who’s names carry very different reputations?

He Said, She Said Wine Review By Steve and Tracy Hurlburt

Yum Yum Scale Mmmm Amazing stuff, legendary, cannot be

missed! Yum Yum! Really good. Go buy some before we get it

all. Yum! Good. Let’s have another glass. OK but… It’s alright but don’t we have a Yum wine

in the fridge? Blah! Blah, humbug, underwhelming Yuck! Assault and battery of your taste buds

and olfactory senses.

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2008 Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Reserve, Napa Valley California 14.5% $49.88 per 750 ml bottle (SLGA specialty listing) She said: “Light/medium gold in colour. This wine has a viscous consistency that makes it dance in the glass. The bouquet is exotic and somewhat unusual for a Napa chardonnay in that it has light orange notes and very little oak at first. Melons, pears, toasted bread and mineral notes/wet stones are coaxed out after a bit of time in the glass. On the palate this wine is creamy smooth with a long silky finish. The fruit and acid are somewhat restrained but the more you try it the more evident it becomes that this wine balances sophistication and hedonism at the same time and does it well. So what about the price? In the words of Rudyard Kipling ‘If you don’t get what you want, it’s a sign that either you did not seriously want it, or that you tried to bargain over the price.’ This wine is worth the price; silky, seductive, sophisticated yet restrained it reminds me of a Grand Cru Chablis with a touch of French Oak added.” Rating: Yum Yum! He said: “Light gold in colour. Big legs in the glass. Subtle notes of French Oak on the nose with delicate pear and peach aromas. The flavours in the mouth are delicate, flowery and balanced. This is a Napa Chardonnay? Seriously, if I had tried this blind I would have declared it to be a

very good Viognier. Where are the typical Napa buttery/tropical fruit flavours tied to strapping Oak flavours? The finish is Napa Chardonnay but very, very well balanced and it last way longer than you would think it could without big toasty oak. This wine shows how seriously the Mondavi family has taken the journey from being simple grape growers in the 1930s to the makers of world class wines today. This is a balanced sophisticated wine that more than justifies its price.” Rating: Yum Yum! 2005 [yellow tail] Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Release by Casella Wines, Wrattonbully Limestone Coast, Australia 15.5% $39.99 per 750 ml bottle, at the SLGA (specialty listing) He said: “Deep, deep red. Even the air bubbles are red. Chocolate, spices and coffee (big time chocolate) with a bunch of eucalyptus and just a touch of dangerous volatility on the nose. This is not your Uncle Fred’s Jug-O-Roo-Red, not remotely close. This is serious stuff. The tannins on your palate are proof positive of that; they are obvious, dry and fully ripe. Unlike its cheaper cousins and label mates the tannins come from how the wine was made and finished in real oak barrels as opposed to a dollop of liquid oak or the infamous bag of oak shavings treatment. This wine is light years away from the flaccid Cabernets that make up the vast majority

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of Aussie ‘value priced’ wines. This wine’s balance is great with just the right amount of acid to define the tight black fruit flavours and a spicy plum flavoured finish that lasts for a fair while. There is structure here that could see this wine get even better over the next 3 to 4 years and last another decade. I wouldn’t dare to try that with a regular critter wine. This [yellow tail] wine carries the burden of a critter wine pedigree and a label that is usually associated with quantity and low prices but I can also say that at $39.99 it is a real bargain.” Rating: Yum Yum! She said: “ I never thought that I would fork out $40 for a [yellow tail] wine. Not for a 750 ml bottle which ranges from $12 to 16 normally. A 3 litre box maybe but a 750 ml? Anyways this wine is an intense red that reminds me of the colour of Red Velvet cake. A serious bouquet of eucalyptus, mint, black olives, pepper, spices, cassis and herbs. Wow, this is a [yellow tail]? On the palate my first impression is also Wow! This 2005 has plenty of velvety tannins that are

softening nicely and as such are starting to reveal its age but in a good way. Prominent legs run down inside the glass. The fruit and acid are hidden behind the tannins at first but they are very well balanced and together with those tannins they give me the feeling that this wine could last another 15 years or more. Concentrated flavours and soft oak accent the medium length, polished finish and the overall impression is of a premium Aussie Cabernet in the mold of Lindeman’s Pyrus. So does this wine’s label/name define it you ask? Sometimes you have to think outside of the box (or in this case the bag-in-box) and go for it. Casella wines did it when they made this wine and so did we when we bought it. Forgive the Australian pun but sometimes you have to take a leap of faith, even on a [yellow tail].” Rating: Mmmm!

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I’ve always hoped that Saskatchewan’s private wine stores would be front-page news one day. Well, they are, but certainly not for the reasons that I hoped. I’m sure you’ve all seen the recent headlines announcing the closure of Saskatoon’s Cava Secreta wine store. Just before this happened, I had planned to write a Back Label column rating the province’s two private wine stores. I was going to give Cava Secreta an A+ for their efforts at consumer education, tastings, wine-themed dinners, impressive wine selection and an outstanding monthly newsletter. Unfortunately, this star pupil has not only been caught cheating, but is being expelled for a whole range of unethical conduct. It is my fear that the government’s decision to allow private wine stores has suffered a serious setback. We can only hope that the actions of Cava’s former CEO will not result in a rethinking of the move towards privatizing wine and beer sales in Saskatchewan. It is entirely possible that these recent events will cause stricter oversight of the private

stores by the SLGA and an increased reluctance to expand the privatization initiative. Cava Secreta certainly seemed to be succeeding based on the comments Savour Life has received from Saskatoon’s wine consumers. Cava’s dinners and tastings were well attended, if not regularly sold out. Wine and beer sales were brisk, with an established clientele that returned regularly, willing to try something new. Sales staff were knowledgeable and new products were constantly being added to Cava’s inventory. Cava Secreta showed the government and the public that the private wine store model does work in Saskatchewan. Regrettably, some of this apparent success seems to have been achieved by violating the store’s agreement with the SLGA along with other questionable business practices. Apparently, a large debt is owed to the Canada Revenue Agency and Cava Secreta’s secured creditors are moving to place the operation into receivership. Employee paychecks are bouncing and

The Back Label

Privatized Liquor Stores: Should they be Saved? By Rob Dobson, CWE

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there appears to be no hope of Cava Secreta ever opening again. I recall that there were five or six applicants for the Saskatoon private wine store franchise. Let’s hope that one of those applicants or another entrepreneur will be willing to step quickly into the void left by the closure of Cava Secreta. Cava’s former manager has shown that the private wine store concept can succeed and Cava has developed a market for the products they sold and the events they offered. However, he has also shown that there are frustrations involved in having to rely on the SLGA for supplying product and complying with regulatory requirements that tended to fetter the operation of this private wine store. Hopefully these hurdles and the possibility of additional scrutiny by the SLGA won’t dissuade a prospective replacement from stepping into Cava’s shoes. This debacle should also provide some insight to the government and the SLGA. The vast majority of Saskatchewan wine consumers view the two private wine stores as a step in the right direction and support further privatization of wine and beer sales in this province. Hopefully, they have learnt that there are ways that they can improve their role in these partnerships with the private sector. Rather than viewing the closure of Cava Secreta as a failure, they should view this as an opportunity to review and improve this important initiative rather than using it as a reason to impose stricter constraints on these businesses. Cava Secreta in Saskatoon and Willow Park Wines and Spirits in Regina have been in

operation for two and a half years. Both have shown that there is a demand for the products and services they provide and that private wine stores provide economic and cultural growth in Saskatchewan. This is a market segment that will keep growing as Saskatchewan consumers continue to become more knowledgeable and selective. The government must continue to support and encourage the growth of private wine and beer sales in Saskatchewan.

A view inside Cava Wines.

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Summer on the prairies is always a special time. We look forward to it all year long, and it lasts only a short while, so it is important to make the most of it. There is nothing quite like the combination of warm weather and a cool (not ice cold!), refreshing beer. Whether it is a family reunion at the lake, an after work get together at a downtown patio, or maybe just you and a good book in the backyard shade, a great beer can enhance all of these experiences. While it is not quite summer here on the prairies, some patios have already opened and I have seen many people in shorts and flip-flops.

Here are a few tips and suggestions to successfully incorporate beer into your summer activities. Drink Water: My first tip might sound a little odd, but here it goes. Drink lots of water! Yes, beer tastes great in the summer, but nothing is more refreshing than clean water. I drink lots of water year round, but I make a point to drink even more in the summer to help with hydration. When you come in from a hot day in the sun, you might be tempted to grab a beer right away. However, you need to quench your thirst first with a glass or two of water, then crack open that beer. If you are planning a “session” (drinking multiple beers over multiple hours), have a glass of water between every beer.

From Grain to Glass

Spring into Summer with Beer By Mark Heise

Barley Field in late summer

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Avoid UV Rays: Another important tip is to keep your beer out of the sunlight. Just like our skin, beer is very sensitive to the damaging UV rays of the sun. Ever heard of skunky beer? When UV rays hit the hop compounds in beer, this causes a chemical reaction that produces mercaptans, the exact same compound excreted by skunks. Beer can become skunked with just a few minutes of sun exposure. When drinking a pint on the patio, try to keep your beer out of direct sunlight. Clear and green bottles provide the least protection against UV rays; it boggles my mind why any brewery that cares at all about their product would use them. Cans provide the best protection, and are lightweight, making them perfect for camping and hiking. Kegs also keep out the UV rays, and are a great choice for summer parties, available uber-fresh at Paddock Wood in Saskatoon, and at Brewsters and Bushwakker in Regina. Summer demands beers that are light and refreshing, but this does not mean bland and boring! The big industrial brewers always come out with a “hip” new product every summer, hoping to cash in on the latest craze. The first one out the gate this year is Coors Light Iced Tea beer. I have not had the pleasure of sampling it, but from what I can gather, it is made of mostly cheap sugar and artificial flavouring. The term “beer” seems to be loosely applied to this product; the term “alco-pop” is likely more appropriate. The artificial flavouring must be expensive as they have priced it like a craft beer. They certainly wouldn’t take a cheaply made product and try to market it as a premium product, would they?

Let’s just move on, and take a look at some summer beers that might be more pleasing to the palette. Wheat beer is the perfect place to start. Light, crisp and lively, hazy pale yellow in colour, with a soft doughy wheat character, it is the ultimate summer beer. I am a big fan of German-style wheat beer (aka hefeweizen), which is known for its banana and clove flavours that come from a unique yeast. We get some imported bottles at the SLGA and specialty stores, but this is not a beer that travels or ages well, so check the bottling dates. The best I have found locally is Konig Ludwig on tap at the German Club (and occasionally available at other fine establishments). Belgian wheat beer (aka witbier) relies on yeast and spice additions to produce a

Brewster’s Farmer Tan Photo: JAL – Jill A. Lanigan

Photography

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perfumey, orange and spice flavour that again is best served fresh. Hoegaarden is the classic witbier and is available at many pubs on tap. In the bottle, the best option is Unibroue Blanche de Chambly from Quebec, available at SLGA stores. My favourite witbier option in Regina is Brewsters Farmer Tan; they use an authentic Belgian yeast, and is always fresh. There is also American-style wheat beer, which uses a clean yeast, putting the focus squarely on the wheat character. Wheat beer is supposed to be hazy/cloudy, this is due to the high protein content of wheat, which also gives the beer a creamy, luxurious mouthfeel without being heavy. You may be familiar with the heavily filtered, crystal clear, Grasshopper wheat beer from Big Rock in Calgary. Another Calgary brewer, Wild Rose, produces the appropriately named Velvet Fog, which is usually available on tap at Beer Bros in Regina. Give it a try to truly appreciate all that wheat can offer in a beer.

The final word on wheat beer is in regards to serving with a slice of fruit. In my opinion, a great wheat beer does not need additional fruit flavour, and the fruit also destroys the magnificent fluffy white head (thanks again to all that protein). Try it without the fruit and see what you think. Check back next issue for more summer beer suggestions, things should really be heating up by then, so you’ll want to have your fridge well stocked! Cheers!