scenes from the market - columbia · introducing us to new items. and as summer gets under way, the...

Scenes from the market Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season begins Karola Saekel, Chronicle Staff Writer

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

Saturday morning at the Alemany Farmers' Market. A man spotting an acquaintance: "I didn't know you shopped here."

The answer: "Well, you know, we're supposed to eat locally."

The message preached by environmentalists, Slow Food followers, junk-food-fighting nutritionists and other adherents of the local/sustainable and organic food movement is obviously spurring the growth of farmers' markets.

Not only are they growing in numbers -- the Bay Area alone offers close to 90 -- but they are educating our taste buds, giving us exceptional examples of familiar produce and introducing us to new items. And as summer gets under way, the market stalls are fuller than ever.

They've become a force to be reckoned with in the American marketplace.

For proof, just look at the number of conventional supermarkets that have started to carry some organic produce, tout its origin if it's local ("From Sebastopol!") and even give their produce departments more of an outdoor market look, says Sibella Kraus of the Berkeley-based organization SAGE (Sustainable Agriculture Education).

Kraus, a pioneer of the Bay Area farmer-to-consumer movement, was instrumental in organizing the event A Tasting of Summer Produce, which was first staged at the Oakland Museum in 1983, with several repeat performances over the years.

For many consumers, these events were eye-openers: They had never known that there were more kinds of potatoes than russets and red boiling potatoes, or more salad greens than iceberg and romaine. They discovered that many of these interesting fruits and

vegetables taste far better than their supermarket cousins and are grown within a few hours' trucking distance of the Bay Area.

Though a 25th anniversary observation is being planned for next year, Kraus says the proliferation of farmers' markets has eliminated the need for events like those tastings.

Boost in sponsors

The nationwide trend, experts agree, is still gathering momentum, but nowhere has it found more fertile ground than in Northern California, where climate, soil and the philosophical inclinations of a large number of consumers combine fortuitously.

Along with the growth of farmers' markets is a growth in the number and nature of organizations or civic entities sponsoring them.

Markets like Alemany and Old Oakland operate under the auspices of their respective city governments; the Ferry Plaza market is staged by CUESA (Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture); the Berkeley markets by that city's Ecology Center; Copia, the American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts, facilitates and partially funds the Napa markets.

Kaiser Permanente supports nearly 20 Bay Area mini markets on hospital sites under the California Farmers' Market Association umbrella. There are markets sponsored by merchant associations, at schools and in shopping malls.

All these latter markets typify a new approach, says publicist Priscilla Coe, who has long been associated with sustainable and organic farming. Instead of waiting for people to seek out the market, Coe says, these new enterprises bring the market to the people. Who would have thought 15 years ago that a farmers' market could blend into an upscale shopping environment like the Crocker Galleria, she asks.

The concept of direct sales from farmers to urban consumers of course is anything but new. It was the norm rather than the exception in Old World countries for centuries. This area's oldest market, the Alemany Farmers' Market, was founded during World War II, when produce from so-called Victory Gardens was sold in an empty lot at Duboce and Market streets. Farmers have trucked their wares to the current location, on Alemany at the Highway 101/280 split, since Aug. 4, 1947.

In photos of that wartime market, almost everybody, male and female, wears a hat, and it's a fairly safe bet that most shoppers were of the middle or lower middle classes. Affluent folks, even in wartime, still had cooks and maids then, and upscale grocery stores delivered to the door -- the back door, of course.

By contrast, today's farmers' market draws shoppers from every segment of society. At Ferry Plaza on a Saturday morning, you may encounter young couples pushing infants in strollers and elderly people carefully selecting just a couple of peaches or half filling a

plastic bag with five potatoes. You may also run into celebrity chefs like Gary Danko, cultural icons like maestro Michael Tilson Thomas and food mavens like Peggy Knickerbocker.

Shopping at these venues is a lifestyle choice, including a commitment to support local agriculture. It's also chic to clutch a canvas bag or a basket and fill it with organic Chioggia beets, amaranth and olallieberries.

Of course, Ferry Plaza is nothing if not chic, to the point that some critics call it elitist.

Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini caused a tempest this spring when he said as much in his latest book, "Slow Food Nation." He and the offended farmer/vendors have since kissed and made up -- sort of -- but the controversy definitely brought the issue of price to the fore.

There is no denying that produce at some markets is costlier than at others, with Ferry Plaza in the lead and other markets in high-rent communities, like Berkeley, not far behind. The reasons are complex. None of the organizations or civic entities controlling these markets dictate prices, so pricing is self-regulating: Vendors can charge what the market will bear.

Demand drives prices

The cost of renting stalls varies from market to market and by the season, but is generally in the $20-$45-a-day range, according to the Pacific Coast Farmers' Market Association, which oversees about 45 markets from San Jose to Vacaville. Generally, farmers are assessed a flat fee while vendors of prepared foods often pay the market a percentage of their take.

Farmers who sell both at the high-end markets and some less high-profile sites won't deny that they charge different prices, generally insisting that they reserve the choicest produce for markets where people don't flinch at higher prices. Some of the outlying markets, say, in the South Bay or Contra Costa County, may also be closer to their farms, thus reducing time and gasoline costs, so they can afford to charge less.

Kristie Knoll, who with her husband, Rick, operates Knoll Farms in Brentwood, has been a farmers' market vendor since the '80s. She says she has seen growing public awareness of the importance of eating unadulterated food, in part because of educational programs organized by groups such as CUESA or the Berkeley Ecology Center in conjunction with markets.

A good example is the annual peach tasting at the Berkeley market (this year, July 14). Kirk Lumpkin of the Ecology Center says the free comparative tastings are generally a big draw for the regulars, but also attracting a few newcomers. He adds they are a boon to participating farmers. Since tastes vary, customers flock to all stalls selling the featured item: "When we taste strawberries, every strawberry grower sees sales go up."

An expert cook, who started cooking in Texas when she was just 11 years old, Knoll does her own consumer education by handing out some of her favorite recipes, including one for cross-cut green garlic topping fromage blanc on sliced baguettes. It couldn't be simpler, she says of this seasonal spring dish, yet if you bring it to a party, "people think you slaved over it."

Other farmers do the same. Heirloom Organics of Hollister has a hand-lettered sign on the bin with golden and striated beets at the Sunday Menlo Park market, suggesting that the beets be roasted and served with arugula, pine nuts and goat cheese -- very trendy, very good.

No two the same

Knoll loves the dynamic of different markets (in the early years, the Knolls went to markets in Marin, Livermore and Stockton), and it's undeniable that no two markets are alike. Take Friday's Old Oakland market, where both vendors and shoppers are predominantly Asian, so Asian vegetables are the stars of the produce bins. Nearby Restaurant B and Caffe 817 offer outside seating on nice days, so market shoppers can make a day of it.

As a bonus, there is musical entertainment, a feature of many markets (Concord's Todos Santos Plaza market has weekly concerts at noon on Tuesdays and in the evening on Thursdays in the summer).

On Sundays, scenic Jack London Square is the setting for an Oakland market, with views of the water and lively fountains (great for cooling feet on a hot day). The fare here is eclectic, from berries to barbecue, honey to home-made soap. One gets the impression that many customers combine a Sunday stroll with a little shopping and a bite or a sip, with choices ranging from Breton crepes to organic prepared Tibetan food.

Diversity of offerings

Meanwhile, the Saturday Grand Lake Farmers' Market, which almost succumbed some years ago until the powers-that-be pulled it out from under the freeway, is also thriving. Complete with a food court, it is a big draw for families, featuring many activities for kids. Three Oakland markets, three different personalities.

Cross the bay and examine the Alemany Market. This granddaddy of them all is truly the people's market, says manager and city employee Gary Gentry. In his eight years at the helm, he has beautified the once-drab market with landscaping and colorful murals in the permanent stalls. He has also managed to diversify the market's wares, so in addition to a pan-Asian panoply of fruits and vegetables, there are farmers and their crops with roots in Afghanistan, the Middle East, the Philippines, Mexico -- you name it. On a really good Saturday, the market may attract up to 8,000 shoppers.

Sure to be among them are Peter Jonas and his wife, Kathleen Anderson, who come down from their Bernal Heights home without fail, rain or shine. Jonas says it's not just the healthful, well- priced food that attracts them, but the feeling of community, which he laughingly compares to attending church. Anderson chimes in that they have learned to cook many previously unfamiliar foods and that the market lets them "mark life by the seasons."

Gentry, who not only knows his vendors by name but inquires about the career plans of someone's son who just graduated from high school and about the health of another vendor's spouse, stresses the values of community and connectedness. He tries to tease Victor Molinari into finally planning that long-discussed visit to his ancestral home in Italy. Molinari, 75, first helped his father sell vegetables here from their farm (then in Colma, now in Morgan Hill) when he was 12. He has hardly missed a market day since.

Old-timers are no rarity behind the farm stands. Arthur Davis, a retired military man, is a fixture at Berkeley's Tuesday and Saturday markets and he can usually be found at the tiny but lively relatively new Sunday market in the parking lot of the Kensington Ace Hardware store. Davis admits with a laugh that he has lost track of how long he has been coming to the East Bay from his Arthur Davis Ludwig Street Eggs farm in Santa Rosa, "but it's a long time," he says. As he winds a rubber band around a carton of pale green eggs from his Araucana hens, the 5-year-old daughter of a market shopper exclaimed, "Mommy, mommy -- real green eggs!" Farmer Davis is 83.

A mix of generations is a common feature of many Bay Area markets. In Vallejo, the Saturday market that closes three long downtown blocks of Georgia Street (two blocks for food, one for crafts and other merchandise) attracts a cross section of residents with both organically and conventionally grown produce, prepared food stands (the aroma of sausages grilling is deliciously pervasive), flowers, cheeses, breads and spreads. Many Latino families, often with kids in strollers or seniors in wheelchairs, wander the street at a leisurely pace, with frequent meet-and-greet stops along the way.

A community feeling

On Thursday evenings in San Carlos, there is a lot of interaction between shoppers and diners at the outdoor tables of restaurants lining the block of Laurel Street between aptly named Cherry and Olive streets where stalls are set up. The demographics and the prevalent language are different from Vallejo, but the feeling of community is strikingly similar.

And that's what makes farmers markets such a vital force, Kraus of SAGE and other organizers and supporters agree. In addition to the benefits to both farmers and consumers, they cement communities and can give previously withering downtown areas new focus and new life.

What is a certified farmers' market?

According to the California Federation of Certified Farmers' Markets, a CFM is a location approved by the county agricultural commissioner where farmers offer for sale only those agricultural products they grow themselves.

California Certified Farmers' Markets are operated in accordance with regulations established in 1977 by the California Department of Food and Agriculture.

Only a handful of CFMs were in the California direct marketing program back then. There are nearly 500 Certified Farmers' Markets in the state now, and the number is growing every year.

Finding farmers' markets

Here are some online sources for farmers' market information.

SFGate. www.sfgate.com/food/farmersmarkets. A list of Bay Area farmers' markets.

Planet Drum. www.planetdrum.org/gc_farmers_markets.htm. Information about farmers' markets and local agriculture.

Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture. www.cuesa.org. Information about seasonality and the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.

California Federation of Certified Farmers' Markets. www.cafarmersmarkets.com/search. Information about markets throughout the state.

KQED. www.kqed.org/topics/home/cooking/farmers-markets.jsp. A market guide.

The Green Gate. www.nrdc.org/greengate/guides/markets.asp. National Resources Defense Council's Bay Area guide.

Mariquita Farms no longer sells produce at farmers' markets, but the organic farm's newsletter is entertaining and informative. Find it at www.mariquita.com.

What to buy when

The CUESA Web site includes a listing of produce by season. However, these projections can be a little off, says Maggie Gosselin of CUESA.

What can you expect to find at or near its peak this week and in the next few weeks at almost any farmers' market?

-- Stone fruit has been fairly early this year, which means that apricots have another week or two to go, and plums are already excellent and plentiful. Nectarines are getting there, as are peaches.

-- Figs are just getting to the high-sugar stage, and all the berries are ripe for the picking, especially raspberries and boysenberries.

-- Other summer treats are beginning their annual run: Field-grown tomatoes (look for the sweet Sungolds), potatoes and cucumbers.

-- Green garlic is pretty much gone, but bulb garlic is at its freshest. And to season all this bounty, all the herbs of summer, from the various basils to the sages, are in full swing.

Turnip & Leek Vichyssoise

Serves 6

Riverdog Farm in Guinda included this recipe in a recent newsletter. It is adapted from "The Political Palate" by the Bloodroot Collective (Anomaly Press, 2007). This is a sturdy soup, not as smooth as conventional vichyssoise.

INGREDIENTS:

2 medium leeks

1 small onion

3 medium Yellow Finn potatoes

8 white turnips

1 quart milk

Freshly grated nutmeg to taste

1 teaspoon salt

A pinch of sugar (optional)

Chopped scallions or chives for garnish (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS:

Instructions: Split leeks lengthwise and rinse thoroughly. Coarsely chop leeks and onion and place in a pot. Peel the potatoes, cut in half and add to the pot. Dice the turnips and

add to pot, along with 2 cups water. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat to a simmer until the vegetables are tender.

Using a food processor, puree the soup (keep lid slightly ajar, since hot liquids tend to splatter). Return soup to the pot and add milk, nutmeg and salt. Bring to a boil and taste for seasoning, adding sugar if you like.

Serve this soup hot or cold, garnished with scallions or chives. If you serve it cold, it will require more salt.

Per serving: 185 calories, 8 g protein, 32 g carbohydrate, 3 g fat (2 g saturated), 12 mg cholesterol, 501 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.

Braised Chard with Balsamic Reduction

Serves 4

This is adapted from a recipe published by the Pacific Coast Farmers' Market Association. It was developed by the group's chef, John Silva.

INGREDIENTS:

2 bunches chard

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

Cracked black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

Instructions: Rinse the chard in cold water to remove any dirt; drain and transfer to a cutting board. With a sharp knife, remove the stems and the rib that runs the length of each leaf. Thinly slice the stems into small disks; set aside.

Shred the leafy greens. Heat 1/2 cup water in a large saute pan over high heat. When simmering, add the stems and cook 1 minute. Add remaining greens and cook 1 minute longer. Drain, then toss the chard with the olive oil and salt.

Meanwhile, bring vinegar to the boil in a small pan. Cook until reduced by half. Add garlic. You can leave the garlic slices in the dressing; if you like a milder garlic presence, remove them after steeping a few minutes. To serve, divide chard among 4 warm plates; dress with the vinegar reduction and top with cracked pepper.

Per serving: 90 calories, 4 g protein, 13 g carbohydrate, 4 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 586 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.

Zucchini Gratin

Serves 4 as a side dish

This dish, from Chronicle Food writer Karola Saekel, was inspired by a similar gratin she enjoyed years ago at a Berkeley restaurant. She's been making her version ever since.

INGREDIENTS:

1 pound small to medium zucchini

1 1/2 teaspoons salt + more to taste

1 clove garlic

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1/3 cup toasted and chopped walnuts

1 cup grated Gruyere

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

A couple gratings of fresh nutmeg

1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs (see note)

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan

2 tablespoons butter

INSTRUCTIONS:

Instructions: Grate zucchini on medium holes of box grater or with shredding disc in food processor. Place in a colander over a bowl and add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Allow to macerate 20-40 minutes. Squeeze as dry as possible. The easiest way to do this is to turn the zucchini into a potato ricer and squeeze, using moderate pressure. Discard liquid.

Heat oven to 375°. Spray a shallow gratin dish with nonstick spray, then rub with cut garlic clove. Combine zucchini, cream, walnuts and Gruyere. Season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Turn into gratin dish.

Combine the panko and Parmesan in a small bowl. Add the butter and rub into panko mixture until it forms large crumbs and spread on top of zucchini. Bake on middle rack of oven until bubbly and golden brown, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.

Note: Panko breadcrumbs are available in the Asian section of most supermarkets


Very Berry Pudding with Lavender Cream

Serves 8

You can use any combination of berries, but avoid overripe strawberries, which turn mushy. Egg bread or sweet French bread are particularly good in this favorite of Karola Saekel's family. Be sure the lavender you use is labeled for culinary use, not the kind intended for sachets, which may have been chemically treated.

INGREDIENTS:

The pudding

1 pound loaf 1- or 2-day-old firm white bread, sliced

4 cups mixed blackberries, blueberries, raspberries and/or strawberries

3/4 to 1 cup sugar or to taste

Lemon juice, to taste

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

The cream

1/2 cup whipping cream

1/2 cup mascarpone

1/2 teaspoon edible lavender blossoms, fresh or dried (see note)

2 tablespoons sugar

A handful of whole berries for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS:

For the pudding: Preheat oven to 300°.

Place bread slices on a baking sheet and place in oven for 10 minutes to dry. Cool slightly; remove crusts.

Wash berries, drain well, mix with 3/4 cup sugar and turn into a nonreactive pan. Cook over medium heat just until sugar dissolves and berries are juicy, stirring gently once or twice. Cool slightly; add lemon juice and sugar to taste, if desired. Add cinnamon.

Spray a 1 1/2-quart round-bottomed glass or ceramic bowl with nonstick vegetable spray. Line the bowl with bread slices, tearing off pieces to plug any holes. Gently pour berry mixture into bowl. Cover with more bread slices, again tearing pieces to plug holes. Cover with a piece of plastic wrap large enough to have a 2-inch overhang. Cover the top with a plate just a little smaller than the circumference of the bowl; weigh down the top with a lidded container filled with cold water or a couple of cans of food.

Refrigerate at least 6 and up to 24 hours. Remove weights and plastic wrap. Cover the bowl with an inverted serving plate and, holding plate and bowl together firmly, flip to invert pudding onto serving platter. If the pudding sticks, place a clean dish towel wrung out of very hot tap water over the bowl for about 10 seconds to loosen and/or run a thin sharp knife around the edges and down the inside of the bowl.

For the cream: Meanwhile, whip cream and mix with mascarpone. In a mortar or a clean coffee grinder, pulverize the lavender blossoms with the 2 tablespoons sugar; fold into the cream mixture. Refrigerate up to 1 hour. Decorate the unmolded pudding with whole berries and serve lavender cream alongside.

Note: Dried lavender is available in the herb section at specialty and health food stores.


E-mail Karola Saekel at [email protected].

This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsThe bounty at Oakland's Grand Lake Farmers' Market includes strawberries. Chronicle photo by Lance Iversen

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsThe bounty at Oakland's Grand Lake Farmers' Market includes squash. Chronicle photo by Lance Iversen

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsThe bounty at Oakland's Grand Lake Farmers' Market includes radishes. Chronicle photo by Lance Iversen

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsArthur Davis of Santa Rosa sells his Ludwig Street Eggs at the Berkeley Farmers' Market on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Chronicle photo by Katy Raddatz

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsRed onions from Happy Boy Farms in Watsonville. Chronicle photo by Darryl Bush

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsHeirloom tomatoes from Happy Boy Farms in Watsonville. Chronicle photo by Darryl Bush

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsMark Gerolymatos of Berkeley sniffs garlic sold at the stand of Firme Farm of Gustine at the San Carlos Farmers' Market on Thursdays. Above right, heirloom tomatoes and red onions from Happy Boy Farms in Watsonville. Chronicle photo by Darryl Bush

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsAt the Grand Lake Farmers' Market, shoppers line up at the Happy Boy Farms stand. At right, Jason Libsch eats a breakfast burrito from the popular food court while his son Felix, 3, bites into a slice of orange. Chronicle photo by Lance Iversen

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsJason Libsch eats a breakfast burrito from the popular food court while his son Felix, 3, bites into a slice of orange. Chronicle photo by Lance Iversen

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsZucchini Gratin. Photo by John Lee, special to the Chronicle

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsVery Berry Pudding with Lavender Cream. Photo by John Lee, special to the Chronicle

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsShopping meets dining at Thursday's farmers' market along Laurel Street in San Carlos. Chronicle photo by Darryl Bush

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Scenes from the market / Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season beginsCarrots from Calderon Organic Farms of Hollister. Chronicle photo by Darryl Bush

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scenes from the market - columbia · introducing us to new items. and as summer gets under way, the...

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