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A warm welcome for Madrid Fusion Manila 2016 rockstar chefs at Malacañang

DAY 1

gazetaTHURSDAY, APRIL 7, 2016

It isn’t just the breadth and width of food choices in the Southern Tagalog Region (Region IV-A) that make it one of the Philippines’ most signifi cant culi-nary centers. It is also the key contribu-tion to Philippine heritage cuisine of this region, which comprises the provinces of Cavite, Laguna, Batangas, Rizal and Quezon.

“Calabarzon can proudly claim to be the cradle of noble cuisines. From our region comes most of the food that our heroes, Jose Rizal, Emilio Aguinaldo, and Apolinario Mabini, among others, partook of and enjoyed,” says Depart-ment of Tourism Regional Director for Region IV-A Rebecca Villanueva-Labit. “Calabarzon off ers food tourism to com-plement cultural and heritage tourism.”

Of late, slowly but on point, Calabar-zon has been emerging as a food desti-nation, much like Pampanga or the Ilo-cos region. Labit says that Calabarzon’s residents including its food and hospi-tality entrepreneurs, are seeing culinary

Just as the Philippines connected East and West in the Galleon Trade more than four centuries ago, today it is again a historical melting pot, using its unique food heritage to make it the perfect host for Madrid Fusion Manila 2016.

The 2nd year of Madrid Fusion Ma-nila, the biggest international gather-ing of some of the most revered names in the world of gastronomy, opened in Manila on Wednesday. The only Asian edition of Madrid Fusion, celebrated in Madrid yearly since 2003, ranks among the world’s most high-profi le gastrono-my events.

“Welcome to the new face of modern gastronomy in Asia,” a proud Tourism Secretary Ramon R Jimenez said at the opening reception at the Malacanang Palace Wednesday evening.

This year’s theme for Madrid Fu-sion Manila is ‘The Manila Galleon: East Meets West’.

This is in keeping with the celebra-

Drink up: Flavors of the Philippines, the Calabarzon Experiencereasons as a major come-on for people to visit.

Despite the urbanization that Cala-barzon has seen due to its proximity to the national capital, its local culture remains very much alive. Historical landmarks, monuments, old churches, and shrines dot the region’s landscape. Laguna is known for its embroidery, wood carving, and papier-mâché (local-ly known as taka). Quezon has harvest festivals and fl amboyantly decorated houses. Rizal has artisan villages and art galleries. In 2014, Calabarzon hit the 10 million mark in terms of daytime tourist arrivals, accounting for about 46 percent of the country’s daytime visitor arrivals.

“We are the region of heroes, and food historians are seriously looking into, reviewing, investigating these heri-

tion of the 450th anniversary of the Gal-leon Trade, which was the trade route that Spain ran from 1565 to 1815 be-tween Acapulco and Manila, outposts in its two colonies of Mexico and the Phil-ippines. The galleon ships were laden with silk, spices and other goods from China, bringing them to Mexico through the Philippines in voyages that lasted six to nine months.

tage foods which we are rediscovering more and more and now sharing to oth-er people,’’ Labit adds.

To push the region’s food tourism further, DOT Region 4A once again par-ticipates in Flavours of the Philippines, a DOT initiative celebration of April as National Food Month. This is also a co-located event of Madrid Fusion 2016.

“Our chefs, our food entrepreneurs, our hotel and restaurant industry are all the more inspired this year because they have proven that our region has a lot to show to the world in terms of unique delicacies and culinary delights,’’ en-thuses Labit.

Indeed, 10 select culinary destina-tions and dishes were showcased as part of the Calabarzon Experience in this year’s Flavors of the Philippines.

“Philippine cuisine will share the spotlight with the diff erent cuisines of the world, as foreign celebrity chefs bring the infl uences of their culture to the table this year at Madrid Fusion Ma-nila,” Jimenez added.

❑ ❑ ❑DINNER WITH THE STARS

A two-night ‘Dinner with the Stars’ with 2-Michelin star chef Dani Garcia was held at the grand ballroom of the New World Manila Bay Hotel.

Inside, diners were transported to three rooms for a multi-sensory experi-ence that elevated their dining experi-ence.

The fi rst stop was the audio-visual room, which had been transformed into an underwater virtual-reality en-vironment through a wall-to-wall LED screen that showed the deep blue ocean and its rich marine life. In this make-believe seascape, Michelin-star Chef Garcia demonstrated his innovative cu-

“We expect this to be every bit as suc-cessful as the one before,” Jimenez said. After all, as he pointed out: “Good food has always played a big part in the fun element of our culture and a vital com-ponent of Filipino hospitality.”

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THE FLAVORFUL ROAD TO MFM 2016

Among the Madrid Fusion chef presenters at Madrid Fusion Manila 2016 presscon at SMX, Pasay City are Kevin Cherkas, Romy Dorotan, Nordin Topham, Leah Cohen, Jung-sik Yim, Myke Sarthou, Jordi Butron, Miko Aspiras, Fernando Arellano, Enrique Olvera and historian Antonio Sanchez de Mora

Tourism Secretary Ramon Jimenez Jr. welcomes chefs to Manila for Madrid Fu-sion Manila

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Aside from the list of re-nowned chefs presenting at Madrid Fusion Manila2016, the MFM 2016 Trade Expo boasts an international exposition un-like any other in the country today.

TRADE SHOWAs a gastronomy-themed

expo, it boasts a wide array of exhibitors that feature food ingredients and crops from the different regions of the country. The trade show in-tegrates lifestyle destinations with food tourism and takes the visitors through flavors both familiar and peculiar. In-digenous crops, heirloom rice, local delicacies, Philippine ex-port champions are just some of the interesting finds in the Madrid Fusion Manila trade show.

The huge Spanish pavilion is back with some of the coun-try’s best offerings. Featured are some of the Spain’s best wine and liquor brands, jamon, cheeses, olives among many others.

Of course, top brands, both local and foreign, are also rep-resented on the expo floor that cater to the various needs of the food service industry. From in-gredients to foodservice equip-ment to finished products, the Madrid Fusion Manila Trade Expo offers supply solutions to the growing foodservice indus-

AN EXPOSE ON MFM TRADE EXPOtry of the Philippines.

Apart from the booths, other highlights of the trade expo in-clude the following :

FOOD TUNNELThe Food Tunnel brings

its visitors along a a journey of tastes, smells and textures. Patterned after the galleon, this special setup serves as a fitting highlight of the event. Today, the tunnel features tasting sessions on Philippine Coffee and Sweets; Philippine Dairy, Mangoes and Spanish Quesos. During these ses-sions, visitors will get a taste of the different flavors and varieties of these food ingredi-ents. There are limited num-bers of available slots for at-tendees, so be sure to register early on the same day.

SEMINARSMadrid Fusion Manila

serves up in-depth discussions and learning opportunities to visitors. During the opening day of Madrid Fusion Manila, attendees can select to attend any of the following lectures : Philippine Herbs and Spic-es; Spanish Ham and Tapas; Ribera Del Duero and Rueda Wine and Emperador Group of Brandies. These seminars offer a deeper understanding of the history, the process, ap-plication and market position-ing of these featured products.

This is a great chance to learn from industry experts.

CHEF’S HOURThe world’s best chefs are

coming to Manila, but unless you are a delegate to the con-gress, there are not many op-portunities to meet them. But this year, non-delegates have the chance to watch these fa-mous chefs through the Chef’s Hour Stage. At certain peri-ods of the day, the chefs will be presented to the press in the Chef’s Hour Stage within the expo floor. Be sure to check the schedules so you don’t miss your favorite Michelin-star kitchen celebrities.

HAPAG KAINANFinally, a point of interest is

the Hapag Kainan, a curated area that features Philippine-themed dining options. Here, the focus is on the artistry of the Filipino designer. Creative tables, chairs, light fixtures, even plates and cutlery that are worthy of any 5-star estab-lishment anywhere around the world will be displayed. Visi-tors will find inspiration in the table settings, and hotels and restaurants may just find sup-pliers for their interior design needs.

On April 7 and 8, the expo is strictly for trade participants only. The Trade Expo is open to the public on April 9.

linary techniques. He torched the seemingly suspended-in-midair fatty portions of Iberico ham and, while the oil dripped down the tuna tartar, fished out of a mysterious box the nitro-popcorn of Yuzu or Japanese lemonade and garnished it on top of the tuna tartar.

The next chamber led to An-toine de Saint Exupery’s ‘The Little Prince’ landscape, which is the theme of Chef Garcia’s 10-course menu. Guests were transported to recreation of the Sahara desert and mountainous area, with a showcase of Impy Pilapil’s modern abstract sculp-tures representing nature. Din-ers enjoyed freshly-sliced Iberi-co ham and tapas of sweetened olive hanging like fruits on one of Impy Pilapil’s modern artworks, which had branches made of stainless steel; “egg or not an egg” white gazpacho

with red pepper gel and lychee puree.

The culinary voyage contin-ued at the main banquet recep-tion, where the rest of the dish-es inspired by The Little Prince were served.

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A TASTE OF THEPHILIPPINES

What’s a better way to im-merse oneself in a new place than by visiting the local market? That’s exactly what some chef presenters and delegates to Ma-drid Fusión Manila 2016 did on the morning of Apr. 6, when they went to Farmers’ Market in Ara-neta Center, Quezon City.

No less than Chef Margarita Forés, recognized as Asia’s Best

owners or brought from the vari-ous regions of the country.

At the seafood section, the live jumping shrimps dipped solely in piquant vinegar elicited “oohs” and “aahs” among the participants, proof of how fresh these were.

Chef presenter Fernando Pérez Arellano, for his part, gamely caught some live fish in some of the fish tanks.

The tour ended with a delec-table buffet of traditional Filipi-no breakfast fare, which includ-ed, among others, kesong puti from Laguna with pan de sal, fried milkfish, beef tapa, gar-lic fried rice and a selection of fresh fruits. Participants were also able to try steamed diwal (angel wing clams), kinilaw (fish prepared with vinegar, onions, ginger and chilli) and laing (pork, shrimp and taro leaves in coconut milk).

For Forés, the market tour provided the chefs and del-egates a bird’s eye view of Philippine culinary cuisine. “It

allows them to discover the beauty and richness of our pro-duce. It’s a quick way to help them understand and appreci-ate our culture and what’s be-hind our cuisine,” Forés said.

For chef presenter Jordi Butrón, his favorite part of the market tour was tasting the fruits, since these are the princi-pal ingredients in his cooking. “As a pastry chef, I don’t use sea-food or meat. My favorites here were the lanzones, the jackfruit and the pomelo. The pomelos in Spain are very acidic and bitter but the ones here are wonder-fully sweet!” Butrón shared.

Drink up...From page 1

Female Chef for 2016 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, welcomed the participants as they made their first stop at the fruits section, bursting with the vibrant colors of the fresh produce. Forés, as-sisted by a team from the Ara-neta Group, offered the excited guests a sampling of the Phil-ippines’ well-loved fruits such as Latundan bananas, purple mangosteen, marang, duhat and pomelos.

From the fruits section, the group then went to the vegeta-bles area where they tried fresh hearts of palm, the main ingre-dient in lumpiang ubod (Fili-pino fresh spring roll served with a rich peanut sauce), pako or fiddlehead ferns and also, freshly grated coconut milk or gata, which is used in a wide variety of dishes from the Bicol region.

Afterwards, Forés and her team brought the participants to the expansive meat section and showcased local sausages or longganisas made by the stall

Chef Dani Garcia at New World Manila Bay

Jordi Butron Margarita Fores and Fernando Perez Arellano at Dampa sa Farmers Market

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10:30 to 11:30 — Coriander or parsley?European and Asian influences in Mexico

Country:MexiCo

Restaurant: PujolIn the year 2000, after grad-

uating from the Culinary Insti-tute of New York, the 14-year-old Enrique Olvera opened his restaurant, Pujol, in Mexico City. Since then, he has explored and created dishes based on local ingredients and recipes, experimenting with both contemporary and ancestral techniques and consolidating his own culinary style focused on a dialogue with tradition, quality ingredients and at-tention to detail.

Intent on sharing his distinct perspectives and interpretations, he has opened other estab-lishments in Mexico – Eno, a gourmet lonchería or snack bar with three branches in Mexico City; Moxi, in San Miguel de Allende; and Manta, in Los Cabos, a restaurant that delves into the best ingredients on the coast.

Enrique Olvera is the author of several books – Uno (2010), En la Milpa (2013) and most recently, the gastronomic notebook Boomerang (2015) and his first international publication, Mexico from the Inside Out (Phaidon, 2015). He is an active promoter of Mesamerica – the principal organizer of multidis-ciplinary gastronomic encounters in Mexico and the Colectivo Mexicano de Cocina, among other projects.

15:30 to 16:30— The world from El Celler de Can Roca

Country: Spain

Restaurant: El Cellar de Can Roca

Joan Roca is known as “The Lord of the Kitchen” and “The Bastion of Contemporary Cuisine Par Excel-

lence.” Roca has mastered the perfect combination of the the traditional classic cuisine from his region with the most advanced techniques today. This chef embodies two fundamental ingredients to the dishes he serves at El Cel-ler de Can Roca, namely love and affection in the form of approachability. Roca’ restaurant lives in complementar-ity, elegance, precision, demand, technology, art, knowl-edge and culinary concepts.

MaDriD FuSion ManiLa

What will you present? I want to demonstrate how the different projects that

enrich our daily activity and the research and investiga-tion in our restaurant, which are based in the humanist and creative values that we are committed to, converge in one dish; how we reconcile our intangible commitment to sustainability at all levels through concrete actions that have social impact and are at the same time of tangible creative value that can be savored in our culinary propos-als.

What do you look forward to at Madrid Fusion Manila?Fusion, certainly. Inspiration, association, interchange.

What do you hope to accomplish with your presenta-tions at MFM2016?

I hope to transmit what we do, and show how it is possible to cook from a creative and innovative stand-point that is at the same time committed to a sustainable environment.

What are your impressions of the Philippines? This is the first time that I will visit the Philippines.

Filipinos are known for their natural hospitality and gen-erosity, something that is frequently overlooked but very stimulating to those of us in this profession.

Message for people who will attend MFM2016Let us hope that once more, this year, the intercultur-

al dialogue that is Madrid Fusión will nourish kitchens worldwide with ideas and new endeavors.

16:30 to 17:30 — Do you know Kim?

Country:South Korea

Restaurant: Jungsik

This 33-year-old chef is a man

of his time, times that reflect both globalization and cultural inter-change. He is both an interesting and revealing example of what both culinary crossbreeding and fu-sion are capable of delivering. Born in South Korea and trained in the West, he is considered the most brilliant representative of New Ko-rean Cuisine.

In 2009, he opened his first res-taurant in Seoul, Jung Sik Dang. In 2011, together with four other Kore-an youngsters, he opened Jung Sik in New York. Today, it is an estab-lishment in the heart of the TriBeCa side of town which has made an impact among New York’s foodies and at the same time captured mass media attention.

His point of view about cuisine as something which is both global and integrating is what makes all the difference. He starts from both the traditional Korean cuisine and its ingredients, and then he applies avant garde techniques and con-cepts —most of them Spanish— ob-taining results which are character-istic of highly technical, conceptual cuisine. He doesn’t hesitate in de-constructing the bibimbap (Korean traditional dish) and converting it into a salad or in transforming the omnipresent kimchi (a dress-ing made of soya paste fermented and mixed with chilli paste) into a glamorous dressing. But he can also walk the path the other way around: choosing western ingredi-ents and cooking them using Ko-rean techniques.

17:30 to 18:30 — The EspaiSucre Method applied to cocoa

Country: Spain

Restaurant: EspaiSucre

Sweet mathematics

Jordi Butron opened an extraordi-nary restaurant – Espaisucre – in Bar-celona 15 years ago. It offers sweet cui-sine, a branch of contemporary cuisine that has seen an authentic revolution in recent decades. Butrón has introduced countless dishes and new techniques in a synoptic explanation. His ideas re-main strong in each of the creations he presents through his culinary dialogue, a geometric coherence.

It is worth recalling some of those commandments that underpin his work on restaurant desserts.

1. Flavor is the top priority. The other variables (technique, plating, aesthetics) are vehicles, means and not ends.

2. Contrasting flavors, flavor points, are distinguished to tone down the dif-ferent sugar components. The range of tasty possibilities is widened (sweet, salty, bitter, acidic, spicy, sweet and sour). Sugar’s monopoly is a thing of the past.

3. The introduction of new tech-niques, products and tools allows greater control over flavor. These should be used alongside traditional baking techniques.

4. The arrangement of food is an es-sential variable as flavor may differ ac-cording to ingredient placement. Flavor, not aesthetics, is the main priority.

5. Immediacy is a new approach in restaurant desserts, with all that entails in terms of preparation and temperature.

6. Relationship with the world of sa-vory cuisine: synergy.

7. Not only is the perfect combination of taste, technique and plating crucial in a restaurant dessert, but there are also intangible elements that can turn it into something more complex.

09:30 – 10:30 — Flavors that Sailed Across the Seas

Country: Spain

De Mora is an archivist (Career Civil Servant) at the Archivo Gen-eral de Indias (Seville). He is also an assistant professor in medieval history at the Pablo de Olavide University and a guest professor, Mas-ter Documentos y Libros, Archivos y Bibliotecas at Seville University.

MaDriD FuSion ManiLa 2016

What will you present? Philippine gastronomy today has its roots in the cultural encounter among Filipi-

nos, Spaniards and other communities during the colonial period. My dissertation will reflect upon ‘Flavors that Sailed Across the Seas’. My intervention in Madrid Fusión Manila will present this exhibition, which will be inaugurated in October 2016 at the National Museum of Manila and will focus on the dissemination of documentary heri-tage as a means to understand the Spanish-Filipino gastronomic traditions.

What do you look forward to at Madrid Fusion Manila?The aforementioned exhibition is an important cultural milestone that aims to ap-

proach gastronomy today through documentary and cultural heritage, very much in line with the theme of MFM 2016, ‘The Manila Galleon: East Meets West’.

What do you hope to accomplish with your presentations at MFM2016?I expect that there will be a coming together of East and West and that the public will

become aware that behind the recipes and gastronomic traditions that exist in the coun-tries along the Galleon Route. There is whole history of encounters and interchange among diverse cultures.

What are your impressions of the Philippines? I consider the Philippines a unique country, a meeting point between Spain and

Asia.

What is your message for people who will attend MFM2016?The best way to understand the present is to know and appreciate our past. In the

context of Madrid Fusión Manila, this means learning about the background and his-tory of Spanish and Philippine cuisine, analyzing the coincidences shared and focusing on their differences as valuable assets that enrich their gastronomy.

11:30 to 12:30 Nutrition& Gastronomy Country

Country:hong Kong

Restaurant: NurNur restaurant opened in

Hong Kong in April 2014 with the vision of serving a holistic food experience with consid-

eration of nutrition and exploration of ingredients within the region. The restaurant is now one of Hong Kong’s leading dining destinations, offering creative, inventive and intelligent gastronomy.

The restaurant is named after its founder and executive chef, Nurdin Topham. The first syllable in his name means “light” in Arabic, a meaning that also resonates with his dishes.

Nurdin came to Hong Kong with over 19 years of experience working as a chef. Most of these were spent with Raymond Blanc at Le Man-oir Aux Quat’Saisons. Nurdin worked two years in the two- Michelin-starred kitchen, five years as the personal development chef to Raymond Blanc. He was then entrusted to run The Ray-mond Blanc Cookery School as Cookery School Head Tutor for three years. It was there that he studied nutrition and qualified as a nutritional therapist.

Nurdin has also spent time at the Nordic Food Lab (NOMA), Copenhagen in a research and de-velopment capacity exploring the deliciousness of foods with a focus on natural fermentation.

14:30 to 15:30 — An exploration of Tanguis from Mexico to Philippines

Country : uniteD StateS

Restaurant : Pig & Khao

A graduate of the Culinary Insti-tute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Leah has brought the bold fla-

vors of Asian street food to New York. She combines a culinary technique honed in New York’s top kitchens with the bold flavors found in the restaurants and food stalls of Hong Kong, Thailand, Vietnam, Philippines and Malaysia. Leah’s cooking is innovative and strik-ingly authentic, and is on display daily at Pig & Khao restaurant on the lower east side of NYC. Pig & Khao has been voted the Best Asian Restaurant in NYC by Zagat, and the Best SE Asian Restaurant in NYC by the ‘Epoch Times’.

MaDriD FuSion ManiLa 2016

What will you present? I will be preparing Bellychon ( a modern version of

lechon) served with my version of Filipino Paella.I will be discussing the influences Spain and Mexico had on these dishes and also how to make sure you get the belly skin extra crispy etc. And I will also prepare Crispy Quail Adobo (a new spin on a classic).

What do you look forwardto at Madrid Fusion Manila?

I am really excited to meet all the chefs from all over the world who are participating!

What do you hope to accomplish with your presenta-tions at MFM2016?

My goal is to showcase what I do at my restaurant and incorporate how my childhood influenced and shaped the chef I am today.

What are your impressions of the Philippines? I have been visiting the Philippines since I was 4

years-old and I absolutely love coming home. I feel es-pecially honored this time around to come to Manila and be a part of Madrid Fusion.

Message for people who will attend MFM2016Filipino cuisine is finally being recognized all over

the world, after the MFM2016 people will have a better understanding why.

ENRIQUE OLVERA

JoaN ROcA JUNgsIk YIM JoRdI ButRÓn

aNtoNIo SAnchEz dE MORA

NURdIN tOPhAM

LEaH cOhEn

MEEt tHE chEfS