seesick issue one

A C R E A T I V E C O L L E C T I V E

A V I S U A L P U B L I C A T I O N O F S O R T S

A R T S U R F P H O T O I N S P I R E

\\ DEDICATED TO //

// THE WORLD’S CREATIVES \\

\\ CARRY ON //

EDITOR LETTERREAD AND TAKE NOTES

See Sick is a visual publication of sorts, operating as a platform for emerging artists, surfers, photographers, illustrators, and designers.

As aspiring artists See Sick believes art is a means of true expression of the

inner self: For us, surfing is where it all began. The magazine is an-chored in the surf culture, but is not, by any means, just a surf mag-azine. Although much of the mate-rial is surf related, it is the essence of the ability to express a personal passion and creative thinking for art, while presenting it in its natu-ral form for others to view. See Sick magazine strives to be what we call ‘A Creative Collective:’ A group of aspiring individuals who find peace of mind creating, in-novating, and inspiring while ex-pressing the importance of finding truth in everything they do.

“A magazine for creative minds a like.”

We’d all like to get better at what we do, and that the most efficient way to do that is to crawl out of our many separate bunkers, stop giving each other suspicious looks, and share our best ideas, tools, and practices.

So that’s what we’ve come here to do.

Editor in ChiefAustin Marvin

Creative DirectorMatthew Snell

Director of PhotographyAaron Harriss

F E A T U R E S

PAGE 6

VIR AMBLINGS

YOUR DAILY DOSE OF EVERYTHING

PAGE 7

VIIIT GOES ON

LIFE IN A NUT SHELL

PAGE 12

XIIDREDGE TO WEDGE

THE IMPACTS OF THE ST. AUGUSTINE DREDGING PROJECT ON THE ENVIRONMENT

AND SURFING

PAGE 8

VIIILET IT FLOW

BOHEMIAN ARTIST DOCTORA QUINNFLOW AND BALANCE OF ART & MIND

PAGE 52

LIISESSIONSThe Other InletNOT ONLY A BREEDING GROUND FOR SHARKS ASYOUNG TALENT EXPLODES OUT OF FLORIDA

PAGE 32

XXXIIINFINITE BLISSIsle of Enchantment: Puerto RicoA GUIDE TO MAKE THAT DREAM TRIPAN AMAZING REALITY

PAGE 24

XXIVGET DIRTY &

MAKE SHIT HAPPENA FULL INTERVIEW AND ‘DAY IN THE LIFE’ OF

LOCAL ST. AUGUSTINE SURFER/ SHAPER AUSTIN MARVIN (MLMC)

Y E P ! B U L L S H ! T

Life is

a series

of natural

and spontaneous

changes. D

on’t resist

them

- that

only creates

sorrow. Let

reality be

reality. Let

things flow

naturally

forward

in w

hatever w

ay they

like.

La

o T

zu

I don’t

believe people

are looking

for the

meaning

of life

as m

uch as

they are

looking for

the experience

of being

alive.

Jo

se

ph

Ca

mp

be

ll

While

there’s life,

there’s hope.

Ma

rcu

s Tu

llius

Cic

ero

VI // 6

AARON HARRISS//

AARON HARRISS//

// //RAMBLINGSYOUR DAILY DOSE OF EVERYTHINGfrom aaron harriss

THIS MONTHS Rx

a list to remember, to remember ...

To look forward to success.

To see our destiny as a sunny place where we may not get what we think we want, but we are

still happy.

To see how things, even devastating things, work together to bring something better.

To be honest.

To be fearless, even when I am afraid.

To breath deep breaths as often as I can.

To centre myself in the moment and realize that things are not only okay, but that things

are good.

To hope for spirit and to pray for the ability to find it in everything that I see.

To love fearlessly.

That ‘the only way out is through’.

That my beliefs are not based on other peoples’ certainties.

To believe that the world can be better and so can I.

That I am not responsible for managing anyone’s feelings and beliefs but my own.

That I should nevertheless be as gentle as I can without compromising who I am.

To laugh, loudly and often.

That touch brings healing.

To live now, while I can.

\\SIDE EFFECTS//

A slightly lifted spirit; a small sense of drive and ambition; the ability to break boundries

and innovate.

If you don’t feel a rushing sense of greatness consult your green leafy friend

Y E P ! B U L L S H ! T

IT GOES ON/ / l i f e i n a n u t s h e l l / /

When I stand before God at the end of my life, I would hope that I would not have a single bit of talent left, and could say, 'I used everything you gave me'.

E r m a B o m b e c k

Don’t go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first.

M a r k Tw a i n

I have a simple philosophy: Fill what’s empty. Empty what’s full. Scratch where it itches.

A l i c e R o o s e v e l t L o n g w o r t h

All the art of living lies in a fine mingling of letting go and holding on.

H a v e l o c k E l l i s

Go

confidently in

the direction

of your

dreams.

Live the

life you

have im

agined.

He

nry

Da

vid

Th

ore

au

Life is

really sim

ple, but

we

insist on

making

it com

plicated.

Co

nfu

ciu

s

Remem

ber w

hen life’s

path is

steep to

keep your

mind

even.

Ho

rac

e

Most people have never learned that one of the main aims in life is to enjoy it.

S a m u e l B u t l e r As long as the world is turning and spinning, we’re gonna be dizzy and we’re gonna make mistakes.

M e l B r o o k s

Use your health, even to the point of wearing it out. That is what it is for. Spend all you have before you die; do not outlive yourself.

G e o r g e B e r n a r d S h a w

Life is

a series

of natural

and spontaneous

changes. D

on’t resist

them

- that

only creates

sorrow. Let

reality be

reality. Let

things flow

naturally

forward

in w

hatever w

ay they

like.

La

o T

zu

I don’t

believe people

are looking

for the

meaning

of life

as m

uch as

they are

looking for

the experience

of being

alive.

Jo

se

ph

Ca

mp

be

ll

While

there’s life,

there’s hope.

Ma

rcu

s Tu

llius

Cic

ero

KEEPONKEEPINON//

KEEPONKEEPINON//

// //INSPIR ATIONAL Q U O T E S :H E L P I N G KEEP THOSE W H E E L S T U R N I N G

You have succeeded in life when all you really want is only what you really need.

V e r n o n H o w a r d

The greatest discovery of my generation is that a human being can alter his life by altering his attitudes.

W i l l i a m J a m e s

In three words I can sum up everything I’ve learned about life : it goes on.

R o b e r t F r o s t

7 \\ VII

FLOW

// artwo

rk : He

athe

r Laure

n Q

uin

n

VIII // 8 D O C T O R A Q U I N N

L E T I T flowb a l a n c e b e t w e e n a r t & m i n d

W / H E A T H E R L A U R E N Q U I N N

My art is a daydream. I get lost in the process of painting and drawing; it is the only part of my life that has never had rules. Every person that sees my work has a different interpretation of the meaning and I like it that way.

Heather Quinn was born in California and grew up between San Diego and Orange Counties. Art became a part of his life at a very young age, after hours of play, he wo.uld recreate his experiences of the day by drawing them with crayons. Later doodling became Andy’s escape from the classroom; he dreamed of being on his skateboard, or at the beach surfing. After high-school he was accepted to art school and attempted to play by the rules, however, he felt trapped all over again. This time he was old enough to do things his way so he made the unconventional decision to leave school for good. After years of drawing freedom on paper, Andy had his first real taste and the truth is, he liked it.

Soon after leaving art school, he took his college savings and started his first clothing company named after his newfound independence: “free.” His success was swift, the brand quickly pulled on talent such as Brad Gerlach and Donavan Frankenreiter. However, the popularity of the clothing was dwarfed by Andy’s youth & in-experience at running a business. “Free clothing” closed its doors in 1996 but served as a launching pad for Andy’s career as an artist which has been a dreamy one. He is designing a collection today for Billabong. His brand supplies beach wear to the thousands of cult followers who have remained loyal to Andy’s clothing since the 90’s. Wearing Andy’s clothing makes one feel like they are part of something. Some say “When I wear an Andy Davis t-shirt, I not only tell the

FLOW

// artwo

rk ( left &

righ

t) : He

athe

r Laure

n Q

uin

n

9 \\ IXD O C T O R A Q U I N N

world that I am free & and easy going but I also make a small statement that I, like Andy, stand for something . . . something simple and good.

Andy’s mom, Jane Davis is a practicing artist in Santa Fe, NM and his brother Zack Davis, in brooklyn NY, is a master sculptor; art just runs in Andy’s blood. Davis currently lives in Encinitas, CA with his wife, Ashley and son Noah. He is a devoted surfer who spends his days at the beach, designing clothing, traveling and preparing for art shows around the world.

Solo Exhibitions

2003| Andoland a Freebyrd Concoction - The Surf Gallery - Laguna Beach, CA

2005| Dream On - Beams Store -Tokyo, Japan

2007| Summer Love -The Surf Gallery - Laguna, CA

2007| Doctora Quinn Art Show - Mollusk Surf Shop - San Francisco, CA

2008| A Night at the Mollusk - San Fran-cisco, CA

2009| Stay Casual, six-month pop up store solo exhibit - Ebb & Flow - Cardiff, CA

CLIENTS

BillabongAndo & Friends Clothing

PatagoniaNorthface

Thomas CampbellThe SeedlingThe Sprout

The Present MoviesHydrodynamica Movie by Richard Kenvin

Surfer MagazineNalu Magazine

Amsterdam WetsuitsSanuk Sandals

Josh Hall SurfboardsOn the Board Magazine

Blue MagazineCaptain Fin

Joel Tudor SurfboardsFree ClothingByrd Clothing

Toes On The NoseRoxy/Quicksilver

Surfrider FoundationThe Gap

Vans ShoesRuca Clothing

SimaThalia Surf Shop

Mollusk Surf ShopTS Restaurants, owners of Kimo’s & Duke’s

2K by GinghamBeams T’s Japan

Material ClothingKane Garden Surfboards

The Tyde, the bandMandala Surfboards

Swami’s Japan

FLO

W /

/ ar

two

rk :

He

ath

er

Lau

ren

Qu

inn

X // 10 D O C T O R A Q U I N N

FLO

W /

/ ar

two

rk :

He

ath

er

Lau

ren

Qu

inn

11 \\ XID O C T O R A Q U I N N

D R E D G E W E D G E

D R E D G I N G P R O J E C TI N S A I N T A U G U S T I N E , F L O R I D A

W h a t s o m e m a j o r o c e a n i c r e n o v a t i o n s d i d f o r s u r f i n g i n t h e O l d e s t C i t y .

D R E D G E t o W E D G E

D

S

A

W

XII // 12


D r e d g i n g f o r a n e n v i r o n m e n t a l c l e a n u p c a n b e v e r y c o n t r o v e r s i a l [[

VERDICTMAYBE, PROBABLY, EH..YEA, BUT THESURF HAS NEVER LOOKED SO GOOD

Dredging is the process of excavating or removing sediments from the bottom of lakes, rivers, estuaries, or

marine (ocean) locations. Sediment excavation or dredging is conducted for multiple purposes. These purposes include navigation, mineral extraction (mining), construction activities (e.g., laying underwater pipeline), and the environmental cleanup of polluted sediments.

Dredging is generally conducted by floating construction equipment and is accomplished by mechanical, hydraulic, or hydrodynamic (agitation) processes. Mechanical dredges generally employ draglines, open or closed clam shell buckets, or an endless chain of buckets to excavate the sediment and place it in a container such as a barge or scow. The dredged sediment is then transported in the barge or scow for beneficial use at a location on land or in the water (e.g., construction material, fill or habitat enhancement), to a nearby disposal site, or in some cases, to an aquatic disposal site at a lake, river, estuary, or ocean.

Hydraulic pipeline dredges use a suction pipe connected to an excavation device (like a huge vacuum cleaner hose with a digger at its end) for removing the dredged sediment from the bottom. In the process, the removed sediment mixes with the overlying water to form the resultant dredged material. The sediment is then pumped hydraulically by a pipeline to a location intended for beneficial use (e.g., beach nourishment

or construction fill), to an adjacent aquatic placement location, or to an upland placement facility for storage for later beneficial or commercial uses. Contaminated sediments may be transported to off-site treatment or disposal facilities or to a contained aquatic disposal site. The nonaquatic disposal alternative for contaminated sediments is much more environmentally complex when plant, animal, air (volatile), and surface and groundwater (leachate) pathways for contaminants must be controlled.

Hydraulic dredging may also be accomplished by a self-propelled ocean-going dredging vessel (e.g., hopper dredges) that will store the sediment and entrained water in a large hopper for transport to an ocean disposal site, for beneficial-use placement in the near shore zone for beach nourishment, or for transport to a land-based containment facility. A special-purpose self-propelled hydraulic dredge known as a side caster excavates the sediment (e.g., entrance channel sand) and immediately pumps the material to a location adjacent to the channel, but down drift of near shore natural prevailing currents. The currents rapidly disperse the sediments down coast, beneficially adding to the normal coastal sand movement.

Hydrodynamic dredging (agitation dredging) is a process whereby the bottom sediment is physically

13 \\ XIII


Its just raw surfing. More than half those guys could not give two fucks who’s out in the water. They find a wave and shred the LIFE out of it, paddle back out, and do it again.

D R E D G E W E D G EXIV // 14


TURNING HEADS: THE ESSENCE OF

SURFING IN THE OLDEST CITY

D R E D G E W E D G E 15 \\ XV

Watching this guy surf is similar to watching the bulls run in Spain.

D R E D G E W E D G EXVI // 16

GABE KLING

D R E D G E W E D G E 17 \\ XVII

D R E D G E W E D G ED R E D G E W E D G EXVIII // 18

GABE KLING DIGS IN AT THE DREDGES

t. Aug

ust ine, FL // Pier N

orth // sur fer : G

abe K

l ing // p

hoto

: M. S

nel l

D R E D G E W E D G E 19 \\ XIX

D R E D G E W E D G EXX // 20

D R E D G E W E D G E 21 \\ XXI

N O R T H S I D E O F T H E P I E R S H O W I N G T H E L E F T S I D E O F I TS N E W S A N D B A R S . SURFER UNKNOWN // PHOTO - M.SNELL // ST. AUGUSTINE, FL

D R E D G E W E D G EXXII // 22

N O R T H S I D E O F T H E P I E R S H O W I N G T H E L E F T S I D E O F I TS N E W S A N D B A R S .


Everyone is stoked for everyone, regardless. Someone pulls in or lets those fins loose, everyone is hootin and hollerin. It’s always a good time.

23 \\ XXIII

So we called up Austin Marvin, owner of MLMC (marvin limitied manufacturing comapy) out of Daytona, FL just to catch up with him and see how shit’s coming along.

YO IS THIS AUSTIN?

Yeah this is Austin Marvin. May I ask who’s calling?

HEY MAN, ITS MATT FROM SEESICK MAG.

Yo it’s been a while man, everything going well on your end homie?

YEAH THANKS, BUT THE REASON I CALLED

WAS TO SEE IF HAD SOME TIME TO DO

SOME INTERVIEW SHIT.

Uh, yeah sure..umm this doesn’t have to be all formal and shit right?

NO WAY, WE’LL KEEP IT SIMPLE, JUST FOR A LITTLE PIECE IN THE MAG.

Fuck yeah I’m down man. COOL, WELL START OFF BY TELLING US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF.

My name is Austin marvin...Uhhh. As far as jobs go it would be owner of MLMC custom surfboard line. Where I shape, do all the lamination, sanding, and finish work. I also do photography under Marvin Photography. Full time student graduating this year. Uh. I Guess theres really not that much.

//barking in the background//

IS THAT A DOG I HEAR?

Yeah, Lola go lay down. I happen to be the pround owner of a stupid ass bulldog.//growling//Speak!//bark//Oh yeah, Speak!//bark louder//There you go.

SOUNDS LIKE A PRETTY DOPE DOG.

Yeah, she’s fucking awesome.

G E T D I R T Y &M A K E S H ! T H A P P E N

I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN INTERESTED IN THINGS THAT HAVE A LIFE OF THEIR OWN.

It’s in my stubborn bones to build with my hands and learn the process that it takes to build some-thing. Marvin Limited Manufacturing Company

as a business is about bringing the emphasis back to the process of the product, rather than the profit. What drives and influences the company is not quite as easy to pinpoint, as I put my personal influences into my products. My influences change day to day even min-ute to minute. From the photography, the style in and out of the water, the craftsmanship, everything was better back then. Everything is done by hand. From surfboards to processing and printing film photography to burning screens and printing shirts and hats, every process, every step, done by hand. The goal is not about quantity but rather quality. Rather than focus on a profit, focus on a product. Products range from surf-boards, alaias, paipos, hand planes, skate decks, screen printed t-shirts, hats, and photographic film prints.

// AUSTIN MARVIN \\

G E T D I R T YXXIV // 24

HOW’S THE SHAPING GOING?

It’s moving along. Got a shit load of boards to get done. Im actually in the shop now.

SO WHAT GOT YOU INTO SHAPING? I KNOW YOU RIDE,

BUT WHAT CLICKED FOR YOU?

Well when I get a new board from someone else or off the rack ya kind of got to figure out its quirks. Like what you can do with it and what it cant do. Like what kid of wave it does, but when you make your own board you kind of already know what you want it to do. Just doing ½ of and inch here and like an 1/8 of an inch thicker here the board totally changes. And it’s a totally different ride.

//sanding//

DAMN, I CAN SEE HOW EASY IT IS TO GET INTO

THAT. PARTICULARLY SOMEONE LIKE YOU

CAN RIDE ANYTHING.

Haha, I wouldn’t go quite that far.

SO WHAT REALLY MOTIVATES YOU

TO SHAPE?

Well, I guess I see it as a neverending tale.

UH, COME AGAIN?

Yeah, I feel how shaping is kinda like an art. I think its just like photography you can’t ever really master it. You can just kinda hone youre skills and just get beter and better and better.

SO WHAT’S NEXT? YOU’RE ALMOST

DONE WITH SCHOOL.

Well I’m still learning but, I see

its potentinly down the road as far as keeping me sane and right now it keeps me grounded. I mean I know im not going to be able to make this a full time paying job right now.

I think that’s where I’m at now.

I’ve got atleast 10 years till that and thats if I kinda just keep plugging away at it. Maybe itll be a businees, but I dunno. You cant really be in it to make it a business. Its passion and ambition that drives this vessel.

Well, that’s my rambling.

I LIKE THAT. AUSTIN, ITS BEEN A PLEASURE TO CATCH UP. WE’LL LET YOU GET BACK WORK.

Thanks Matt, it’s been rad. You got to come down to Daytona and ride a few logs soon.

ILL DEFINITELY TAKE YOU UP ON THAT. TAKE CARE MAN.

You too homie.

G E T D I R T Y 25 \\ XXV

What drives and influences the company is not

quite as easy to pinpoint.

It ’s pure love.

ITS IN MY STUBBORN

BONES TO BUILD WITH MY

HANDS..

ITS IN MY STUBBORN

BONES TO BUILD WITH M

Y

HANDS..

G E T D I R T YXXVI // 26

ITS IN MY STUBBORN

BONES TO BUILD WITH MY

HANDS..

ITS

IN M

Y ST

UBBO

RN

BONE

S TO

BUI

LD W

ITH

MY

HAND

S..

G E T D I R T Y 27 \\ XXVII

Making shirts and shaping boards

has never been so fun.photo : Aaron H

arriss

G E T D I R T YXXVIII // 28

Photo prints made with film that is hand processed and printed on archival paper, to various forms of printing from screen prints to wood block prints. Our surfboards are all 100% handmade. No machine shapes, therefore production numbers are limited. We also offer custom glasswork, in case you have the itch to shape, hand it off to us and we will take care of the rest. Everything we do is done with passion and detail.

Marvin Limited Mfg. Co. was started by Austin Marvin, home based on the East

Coast of Florida, with beginnings in a small shed and since then into a full glass shop and studio. The core element of MLMC is hand made surfboards and photographic art, where the emphasis on traditional materials and hands on manufacturing, we create unique surfboards and art pieces that give a nod to the past generations.

What drives and influences the company is not

quite as easy to pinpoint.

It ’s pure love.

G E T D I R T Y 29 \\ XXIX

CHAOS

ORDER

I T S A L L R E L A T I V E , I T M E A N S N O T H I N G .

I T S M E R E L Y M Y F O R M U L A F O R C R E A T I V I T Y .

G E T D I R T YXXX // 30

G E T D I R T Y 31 \\ XXXI

after planeload of (mainly) American surfers to PR’s wave-soaked shoreline, quickly earning it the title of the “Hawaii of the Atlantic”.

Indeed, the traditional wintertime Puerto Rico pilgrimage is still the first place many East Coasters get their first taste of powerful surf. (Other names for Puerto Rico include Borinquen, and La Isla del Encanto.) The first Puerto Rican surfer to make a name for himself was Jorge Machuca, who blew a few minds as a 14-year-old in the ‘68 World Champs. Edwin Santos, Alberto Licha, and Juan Ashton were well known Puerto Rico competitors through the ‘70s and ‘80s. Today, there are

another dozen or so sponsored and/or internationally known surfers,

including Pipe chargers Carlos Cabrero and Otto

Flores, and world traveling competitors

Brian Toth and Dylan Graves.

No

rth

ern

Pu

ert

o

Ric

o /

/ S

prin

g 2

01

1 /

/ p

ho

to :

M.

Sn

ell

INFINITE BLISSTHE EVERLASTING BEAUTIES OF PUERTO RICO

I S L E o f E N C H A N T M E N T

W ITH ITS CRYSTALLINE BLUE WATER, GENTLE TRADE WINDS BLOWING OFFSHORE ON THE NORTHWEST COAST, PALM TREES SWAYING

OVER WHITE SAND BEACHES, AND HUNDREDS OF REEFS, POINTS AND BEACHES, IT’S ALMOST SURPRISING THAT SURFING DIDN’T REALLY START IN PUERTO RICO UNTIL THE LATE ‘50S.

Local boys Jose Rodriguez, Guille Bermuda and Rafy Viella are credited as being the first to surf the north and northwest coasts; the first surf shop was opened in San Juan in 1960 by American surfer Gary Hoyt, and dozens of locals started taking to the waves around the city and on the northwest coast in the early part of the decade. But it was the 1968 World Surfing Championships -- won by Fred Hemmings and Margo Godfrey -- that really put Puerto Rico on the surfing map. Worldwide exposure -- right at a time that surfing was itself really expanding -- sent planeload

I N F I N I T E B L I S SXXXII // 32

I N F I N I T E B L I S S 33 \\ XXXIII

L O C A T I O NPuerto Rico, traditionally known as “Borinquen” to the native Taino Indians, or “La Isla Del Encanto” (Isle of Enchantment) to tourists, is located in the Central North Atlantic at 18°N latitude 67°W longitude.

GEOGRAPHYUsing the Puerto Rico Trench (one of the ocean’s deepest points) as a catcher’s mitt, the island is a swell magnet for any bump in the North Atlantic. Put on the international surfing map by the 1968 World Championships, held in Rincón and won by Fred Hemmings, Puerto Rico has since had a growing flow of surf tourism as well as a burgeoning local surf industry.

W I N D O W of OPPORTUNITY

October to March is prime time for surf in P.R. That said, September can be epic depending on tropical activity, and April and even May can sometimes deliver the goods. Generally, cold fronts blow off the East Coast of the U.S. and their howling north and northwest

winds blow over a large

fetch of ocean pointed directly at Borinquen. By the time they reach the island’s north and northwest coasts these swells are either clean and glassy and best caught on the north coast, or accompanied by strong northeast trade winds and best taken advantage of on the island’s two west facing stretches of coast in Aguadilla and Rincón.

P U R P O S EIn the dead of winter, even Florida can be downright frigid, let alone areas north. Putting on that damp 5mm hooded wetsuit day after day can become a drag. Also, despite Puerto Rico’s location in the midst of dozens of island nations considered international destinations, Puerto Rico is part of the good ol’ US of A. The island uses the same currency as the rest of the states, and you don’t need a passport to gain entry. Likewise, you’ll find all the Stateside conveniences you’re accustomed to having at home, including fast-food chains and retailers like K-Mart and Walgreens. Of course, you’ll also find an endless supply of Latin flavor and culture, which reminds you that you’re not on the mainland.

D IRECT IONSWell, it’s still America, dude, so no, you don’t need a pass-port or anything. (Though you should bring one in case you get the opportunity to travel to some neighboring Caribbean islands.) It’s a pretty quick flight from the East Coast and pretty far from California. If you’re on a full surf mission, ideally you should try to fly into Aguadilla Airport, on the northwest corner.

M E A N S ofT R A V E L

Most major airports along the East Coast have nonstop flights to San Juan, and many have them straight into Aguadilla, which is smack dab in the middle of the most highly surfed coasts. From the West Coast there are nonstops to San Juan on American Airlines from LAX for about $700. Once you touch down you’ll need wheels, and it’s completely safe to just rent from Hertz, National, or Avis and head on your way. If you want to save a few bucks, check out Charlie Car Rentals (charliecars.com) for the best deals. If you plan to be around for more than a couple weeks, you might as well buy a used car and save yourself some cash. Check out clasificadosonline.com for a used beater.

S H E L T E RThere is no shortage of places to stay on the island’s northwest coast from Isabela to Rincón. The best bet is to find someone who lives there and ask that person for referrals to other residents with rental properties. If you get dialed in, you can find places for as little as $50–$75 a night. If you’re a high roller and keen to stay on the island’s most consistent coast for surf, check out Villa Montaña (villamontana.com) at Shack Beach in Isabela. Want to be right on the water at Shacks? Check out Villa Tropical (villatropical.com) or Casa Azul Villas (casaazulvillas.com) for killer apartments with a view of the peak. Over in Aguadilla, El Faro Hotel is a good, affordable, centrally located option, as is La Cima Hotel and Suites (lacimahotel.com). Out in Rincón, accommodations also abound. Some of the best places are The Fisheye View Guest House (rinconview.com) with an amazing view of the lighthouse, Desecheo Island, Indicators, Maria’s, and Tres Palmas; Pools Beach Cabanas (poolsbeach.com) just across the street from Pools Beach and home to The Pool Bar, one of Rincón’s best hangouts; and Tropic Cabañas

San Juan, Puerto R ico // is tock // Ruth Peterk inm

I N F I N I T E B L I S SXXXIV // 34

(tropicabanas.com) right across the street from Sandy Beach and Parking Lots.

G R U BThere’s plenty of fast food, but if you can’t stomach that, you’ll be fine. In Isabela don’t miss Pedro’s Pescado, just down the road from Jobos, for fresh sushi to go on Friday and Saturday nights. Right in Jobos, Happy Belly’s is a great place for a burger or some fresh fish overlooking the peak at this famous beach. In Aguadilla be sure to check out Cocina Creativa right on Route 110 and just outside the old Ramey Base’s Gate 5 for killer breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee, and smoothies. In Rincon The Tamboo Tavern and The Calypso are classic surfer hangouts. If you’re looking for something a little more local, check out El Rincon Tropical, just south of town on Route 413.

B E A U T Y( Y E A H T H AT K I N D )

There’s a reason that Puerto Rico has taken home five Miss Universe titles—second only to the USA with seven. In a word, the women on this rock are hot. Aguadilla is home to a campus of the University of Puerto Rico where women outnumber men two to one. Rincón traditionally attracts lots of cute lassies chasing surfers. And San Juan? Well, let’s just say that when it comes to the ladies, most of the nuggets are here.

C R O W D SIn a word: yes. P.R. is home to an ever-increasing population of wave riders. Most all surf spots in Puerto Rico have a cadre of local and expat surfers who are on it when conditions are good and/or on weekends and holidays. The only chance you’ll be surfing alone is if you find an out-of-the-way spot, of which there are many and some quite good. But many of the best and most accessible ones are spoken for. If you roll with someone who knows their way around, you may still get some waves to yourself.

H A Z A R D SSure, cabrón: Sea urchins, sharp, shallow reef, jellyfish and strong currents are the most common threats; sharks are out there but most locals don’t pay ‘em any mind and there’s never been a shark attack on a surfer. There’s the annoying little “pichu-pichu”, like sea lice that pinches your skin and can cause a rash all over your body -- but most of the time, you’re too busy with the surf to pay attention to such trifling matters. Sticky fingers. Keep a close eye on your things.

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I N F I N I T E B L I S S 35 \\ XXXV

W I N T E RP E A K S E A S O NThis is when surfers from all over the world (though mainly East Coasters) make their pilgrimage to the juice. November through February sees a near constant string of low-pressure systems off the Eastern Seaboard, most of which generate some kind of surf for PR -- some of it quite large, too.

S P R I N GSTILL BREAKINGThis can be a time for the beloved vientos alisios (offshore winds). It’s a time of transition, and while swells aren’t as bomber as wintertime, they can be reason-ably consistent and fun, in the shoulder- to head-high zone with the occasional overhead swell, even into May.

I N F I N I T E B L I S SXXXVI // 36

S U M M E RTRY AND CATCH MESchool and Colleges are out -- and so is the swell, usually. July-No-vember is hurricane season, sure, but they’re pretty fickle through the dog days of summer, when the water temps reach 85 and air temps vary between the high 80s and low 100s. Most people are just searching for shade or an occa-sional wave from a passing South American Cold Front or tropical wave on the South Shore.

F A L LTOP OF THE WORLDTime to get your quiver ready. Steady North Atlantic storms start kicking into gear in late Septem-ber; the super-deep Puerto Rican trench amplifies the resulting north swells, which brings con-sistent -- not giant -- surf to the North Shore of the Atlantic.

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I N F I N I T E B L I S S 37 \\ XXXVII

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I N F I N I T E B L I S SXXXVIII // 38

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I N F I N I T E B L I S S 39 \\ XXXIX

W I L D E R N E S Sf e e l i n g L O S T i s n o r m a l h e r e .

Wildo (as it’s commonly known) is a fairly wild place, both on land and in the water; many surfers have had that lost-in-the-woods feeling while at-tempting to hunt down a shifty, double overhead Wilderness wall without getting caught inside. When it’s small, it’s a bunch of scattered little peaks,

with short, bowly lefts and slightly longer, more facey rights; when it’s really on, though, it’s a steamrolling right reef, perfect for carving with a bigger board -- which you’ll need just to get into the beasts with the 20-knot NE trades blowing side-offshore up the face as you’re blindly trying to drop in. The reef is also fairly broad and sweeping, and can (almost) hold the dozens of surfers that are out here on any day there’s swell. There’s a semi-channel at the

south end of the reef; try not to get swept too far down on your way out.

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I N F I N I T E B L I S SXL // 40

H O W I T W O R K SA G L O R I F I E D B R E A K D O W N

BEST TIDEANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTIONNE - NW

BEST SIZEHEAD HIGH - 2X OVERHEAD

BEST WINDE - NE TRADES

N -SSE WINDS ARE ONSHORE

PERFECT-O-METER6

BOTTOMREEF

ABILITY LEVELBEGINNER TO ADVANCED

BRING YOURQUIVER

BEST SEASONWINTER - SPRING

SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESSPRIME PARKING

LONG BUMBPY ENTRANCEDONT GET STUCK

CROWD FACTORSURE.

LOCAL VIBENOT BAD

IT IS SPREAD OUT

BICEP BURN8

POO PATROL2

HAZARDSSWEEPING CURRENTS

Perfect-O-Meter(1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay)

Bicep Burn(1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach)

Poo Patrol(1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

I N F I N I T E B L I S S 41 \\ XLI

J O B O SC O N S I S T E N C Y a t i t s b e s t .

Jobos is a sweet Puerto Rican fruit with a little almond-like nut inside. The main wave breaks right next to the small rock headland at the east end of the beach and pinwheels into the broad, sandy bay. It actually looks kinda like a pointbreak ‘cause it’s so down-the-line and racy, but like almost every other wave in Puerto Rico, it’s really

a reefbreak. The Locals take off as close to the rock as possible, making it difficult for guys like you and me to actually get a wave. But fortunately, if you’re patient and show respect -- and stay on your lineups -- you won’t be disappointed. Luckily, Jobos also happens to be one of PR’s most consistently rideable waves, as it picks up all manner of north swell and is somewhat protected from the incessant trade winds by the rock headland. There’s also a left that breaks in the middle of the beach and assorted other scattered mediocre peaks as

you head west down the beach.

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I N F I N I T E B L I S SXLII // 42


BEST TIDEANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTIONNE

BEST SIZEHEAD HIGH - 2FT OVERHEAD

BEST WINDSOUTH

PERFECT-O-METER7

BOTTOMREEF, URCHINS AND SAND


BRING YOURFAVORITE SHORTY


SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESSPARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTORYEP.

LOCAL VIBEFAIRLY HEAVY

SHOW RESPECT, YOU’LL BE FINE

BICEP BURN4

POO PATROL2

HAZARDSHIT BOTTOM AND END UP WITH URCHINS SPINES ANDSOME BRIGHT RED GRAZES FROM SHARP LAVA REEF




I N F I N I T E B L I S S 43 \\ XLIII

M I D D L E SP R ’ s b a c k d o o r y o u s a y .

If Tres Palmas is PR’s Sunset Beach, then Middles is surely its Backdoor -- it’s a shallow, bowly, close-to-shore, brilliant blue right tube. Take off behind the crease, stay high, keep your eyes open, and you’re in for one of Puerto Rico’s best and most coveted views. The reef itself is an irregular coral/rock shelf that juts out from the golden sand

beach; any kind of north swell hits the thing straight on, and depending on direction, can bend into a short intense bowl or a longer, slightly less intense wall. The rock at the east end of the beach blocks the trades for a few moments -- and can build up a nice little sandbar in its lee. Even when it’s under head-high it can be shifty, steep, and fast. Don’t be surprised to see PR’s hottest pros, Brian Toth or Dylan Graves, out there ripping -- they both live in

nearby Jobos.

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I N F I N I T E B L I S SXLIV // 34


BEST TIDEANY


BEST SIZEHEAD HIGH - 2X OVERHEAD +

BEST WINDSOUTH

PERFECT-O-METER7

BOTTOMREEF

ABILITY LEVELINTERMEDIATE - PSYCHO

BRING YOURFAVORITE GREEN ROOM BOARD


SEPTEMBER -MARCH


CROWD FACTORYEP.

ONE OF THE MOST PHOTOGRAPHED WAVES

LOCAL VIBEPERFECT SWELL - INTENSEAVERAGE SWELL - MELLOW

BICEP BURN7

POO PATROL2

HAZARDSSHALLOW, IRREGULAR REEF, BREAKS CLOSE TO SHORE




I N F I N I T E B L I S S 35 \\ XLV

D O M E SA p l a c e f o r h u g e A I R S .

Based solely on its name, Domes is probably the easiest surf spot in the world to find. You can’t miss the giant cement (yes, cement) dome as you head down the hill into Rincon. The dome itself used to house a nuclear power plant with the ironic acronym BONUS, which was optimistically opened in the late ‘60s and

closed by the early ‘70s. Duh. So much for building a nuclear power plant next to giant waves in an area that’s had tsunamis and about 200 (small) earthquakes per year. There’s talk about making it a museum. It’s the first sorta-protected spot as you head around the corner at Rincon, and as it’s the furthest one out, it’ll pick up some trade wind swell and is always bigger than the other spots as you head south. The main bummer is that it doesn’t really handle size too well, generally, due to the fact that it’s in a small bay; the water flushes in and around and creates an undesirable “toilet bowl” effect. The wave itself is a sectiony right wall (with a shorter left) that can throw the occasional tube; there are a couple differ-ent takeoff spots -- inside and outside -- depending on the swell, which spreads the crowds

out a bit. .

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I N F I N I T E B L I S SXLVI // 36


BEST TIDELOW


BEST SIZESHOULDER HIGH - FEW FT OVERHEAD

BEST WINDSE

PERFECT-O-METER4

BOTTOMREEF


BRING YOURFAVORITE SHORTY


NOVEMBER -MARCH

ACCESSLOOK FOR THE...UH...DOME

PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTORSERIOUS SHIT

LOCAL VIBEAND YEP.

BICEP BURN7

POO PATROL4




I N F I N I T E B L I S S 47 \\ XLVII

C R A S H B O A TA g u a d i l l a ’ s S U N K E N t r e a s u r e .

Yet another super fickle-yet-magical wave. Crash Boat is a happy accident, as they say: a sand-bottomed right created by rusting navy docks that halfway sank into the sand and ended up creating a killer bank. The wave comes in from pretty deep water and bends in and rolls all the way into shore, looking like a

Latin version of Kirra with more bodyboarders or something. It’s named after Air Force rescue boats that used to be kept here and is now a super popular beach area for Aguadilla

residents and surfers alike.

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I N F I N I T E B L I S SXLVIII // 48


BEST TIDEANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTIONWEST - NW

BEST SIZEFEW FT OVERHEAD

BEST WINDANY

PERFECT-O-METER8

BOTTOMSAND

ABILITY LEVELINTERMEDIATE TO ADVANCED

BRING YOURFAVORITE SHORTY OR LOG


SEPTEMBER -MARCH


CROWD FACTORSURE

LOCAL VIBEOH YEAH.

BICEP BURN4

POO PATROL4




I N F I N I T E B L I S S 49 \\ XLIX

G A S C H A M B E R SR a d i c a l R I G H T S o v e r r o c k s .

Another super fickle, almost mythical wave -- inarguably, PR’s best right tube. It’s super radical, breaking right in front the sharp and hungry cliff. Ideally, you want the first wave of set, ‘cause the backwash goes under the subsequent waves and creates giant warbly barrels over the super hard-packed sand that covers

a rocky bottom. Imagine if the dredging a-frames at Puerto Econdido turned into a close-to-shore right pointbreak. Tons of pros and lots of photographers here when it’s on, and Alberto Licha, ruler of the peak and a permanent fixture, will be there before you and stay long after you’re gone, which means you’ve got a snowball’s chance in hell of getting a wave. Super protected although SW through WNW winds are onshore; NW winds are sideshore.

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BEST TIDEANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTIONWEST - NW

BEST SIZEFEW FT OVERHEAD

BEST WINDSUPER PROTECTED

S - SW WINDS ONSHORENW WINDS SIDESHORE

PERFECT-O-METER8

BOTTOMHARD PACKED SAND OVER REEF

ABILITY LEVELINTERMEDIATE - PSYCHO

BRING YOURFAVORITE GREEN ROOM BOARD


SEPTEMBER -MARCH


CROWD FACTORSURE.

LOCAL VIBEYEP

BICEP BURN6

POO PATROL4

HAZARDSBLIND SPOT

BAD BACKWASH WHEN INSIDE TOP-BOTTOM BARREL




I N F I N I T E B L I S S 51 \\ LI

THE OTHER INLETWHITE SANDY BACKWOODS

S E S S I O N S

LII // 52

S E S S I O N S N E W S M Y R N A

FLORIDA HAS A COAST THAT BREEDS YOUNG TALENT

53 \\ LIII

Like the Coolie Kids or Pipeline Posse or any other homegrown surf clique, New Smyrna Beach surfers regularly spray-paint the acronym on their boards, indulge inside jokes about outsiders, and defend patronizing aliases like “the other Inlet” and “Porno Beach” with a feeding frenzy of world-class surfing talent.

Unknown surfer takes a hack of the top, just wating for a good insider.

If you’ve ever been to a contest, tradeshow,

or freesurfing hotspot in Florida, you’ve probably seen the “NBK” graffiti. It stands for one of two things: “New Burna Konnection” or “No Body Knows.”

Like the Coolie Kids or Pipeline Posse or any other homegrown surf clique, New Smyrna Beach surfers regularly spray-paint the acronym on their boards, indulge inside jokes about outsiders, and defend patronizing aliases like “the other Inlet” and “Porno Beach” with a feeding frenzy of world-class surfing talent. In the last few years, New Smyrna Beach has overtaken Sebastian Inlet as the East Coast’s hottest performance cauldron, but it took a while for people to

notice. Maintaining a heavy presence here since the ‘90s, …Lost mocked the surfing world’s ignorance about what this hardcore surf town was holding with their “NoBody Knows, Nobody Cares” ads, even granting NSB a section in every movie since 1998’s Lost Across America.

And make no mistake – this quaint backwoods Southern retreat is a surf town before anything else. In fact, it could be argued that if not for waveriding, this 13-mile-long patch of white-sand Volusia County real estate might be just another untapped fishing hole with a little more lightning… and a lot more sharks.

New Smyrna Inlet is the only real surfbreak in town,

but that’s okay because it’s the most consistent spot along the Sunshine State’s 1200 plus miles of surfable coastline – if not the entire East Coast.

On a good day, there’s no better set-up for a nimble air guy with a lot of back-foot tweak than here: triangular rampage galore. Feathery liplines, steep transitions, reforming wedges, and the odd suck-up tube collide and disperse like a saltwater Burnside.

Even if it gets any bigger, you’re probably gonna end up driving a half-hour north over the bridge to Ponce Inlet, which turns those odd longer-interval south swells into a legitimate righthand pointbreak thrill.

NEW SMYRNA INLET // white sandy backwoods

NOW YOU KNOW.

Days of rideable surf a year: 300Length of coastline in city limits: 13Speed limit on beach: 10mphBeach driving access fee: $5Shark attacks in new smyrna in 2008: 32Shark attacks nationwide in 2008: 41Extension to ponce inlet south jetty: 1000Local surfers supporting extension: 0

NEW SMYRNA BEACH IS ARGUABLY THE EAST COAST’S MOST CONSISTENT WAVE.

So a recent public meeting set the New

Smyrna Beach surfing community ablaze with rumors that an extension of Ponce Inlet’s south jetty is looming and bound to kill the surf.

The reality is that proponents are making a last-ditch effort to find funding for the project before a deadline that would require it go through the federal re-authorization process and a lengthy and politically competitive gauntlet of a process called the Water Resources Development Act (WRDA).

More than five years ago, New Smyrna locals and the Surfrider Foundation got wind of plans to build a 1000-foot dogleg jetty off the southeast tip of Ponce Inlet’s south jetty. Joe Nolin, Manager of the Ponce de Leon Port Authority, explained that the goal of the project has always been to move the channel away from the north jetty, to make the inlet safer to navigate.

“We want to move the channel which is now hard up against the north jetty, into the middle of the inlet,” Nolin said. “That will also flatten the tidal bore that creates violent standing waves on the outgoing tide,

made worse by the trade winds.”

Because of its geographical location at the south end of the South Atlantic Bite, and because of Cape Kennedy’s influence, sand “backpassing” from south to north occurs, when along most of Florida’s East Coast the movement of sand is mostly north-to-south. The backpassing causes shoaling in the inlet, and engineers hope that the jetty extension will stop the northward flow of sand into the inlet and keep more sand on the south-side beach. (However, on the right swell perfect waves spin along inside the inlet.)

“You can’t put a thousand feet of rocks into a unique configuration of bars and not have an effect on the waves they produce.”

-- Longtime NSB local Randy Richenberg

Unfortunately, the project, as it was originally designed, would have blocked the surf from reaching New Smyrna Beach sandbars, which

provide more than 300 surfing days a year for local and visiting surfers, and generate more than $6 million -- according to a four-year-old economic impact study -- in the community.

Michael Walther, a coastal engineer with Coastal Tech Corp and former Chair of the National Surfrider Foundation, along with local shaper Randy Richenberg, reached out to Volusia County on behalf of the surfing community. They noted that neither the U.S. Army Corps of Engineer’s project design nor its economic impact analysis factored in effects of the project on surfing or the local economy. The County and the Corps listened, and hired Taylor Engineering to come up with alternative designs, including one that would extend the jetty northeast, keeping it in the existing northeast swell shadow caused by Ponce Inlet’s

SO MUCH TALENT

This place is not only a surf mecca, but also a frenzy for tiny bikinis and beautiful babes. The proofs in the picture. (left)

It’s as if this place will never stop

growing.

Surfing is a huge piece of this town.

much longer north jetty. The models showed that this configuration would have less impact on the surf at New Smyrna Beach, and move the channel to the center of the inlet.

“Going with that design was a no-brainer,” said Nolin, who grew up in New Smyrna and said he understands full well what surfing means to that community.

But there was never sufficient funding, especially on the local level, so the project never proceeded. Leaders in the New Smyrna surfing community quietly hoped that it would just go away, and it likely will.

Granite is the only rock that will last in such rough environment, but it is now so expensive that the project costs have escalated from $7 million to $17 million. Unless the federal government ponies up, and the local cost-share costs can be met, the

project is dead in the water. “We may be right back

at square one,” said Nolin. Again, local surfers won’t be too upset.

“You can’t put a thousand feet of rocks into a unique configuration of bars and not have an effect on the waves they produce,” said Richenberg.

And Nolin said that engineers expect the beach immediately south of the south jetty to grow seaward several hundred feet. While that may be good for nesting sea turtles and beach driving, it is unknown how such accretion would affect surf near the jetty.

Richenberg and fellow local Greg Arnette both pointed out that given the current state of the economy, it doesn’t make much sense to spend that kind of money on a project that may not succeed and that may damage a reliable and growing economic engine -- surfing.

“If there’s money to spend, shouldn’t we be cleaning up the estuaries or investing in artificial reefs to benefit the fishing industry?” asked Arnette.

NOW YOU KNOW.

Days of rideable surf a year: 300Length of coastline in city limits: 13Speed limit on beach: 10mphBeach driving access fee: $5Shark attacks in new smyrna in 2008: 32Shark attacks nationwide in 2008: 41Extension to ponce inlet south jetty: 1000Local surfers supporting extension: 0

EVANGEISELMAN

DEEP IN THE CAVES

EVAN GEISELMANFinding some shade at the inlet

BIRTH DATE: August 31st, 1993BIRTH PLACE: New Smyrna Beach, FloridaRESIDES: San Clemente , CaliforniaHEIGHT: 5’11”WEIGHT: 150 lbs.

‘Surfing has evolved.

It’s all about the huge radical aerial rotations now’

-Evan G.

EAST COAST SURFING

Younger brother of Nils Schweizer, Noah, is proof the inlet breeds young talent.

Its a watering hole.

NOAH SCHWEIZER Showing off his roundhouse

BIRTH DATE: October 1995BIRTH PLACE: New Smyrna Beach, FloridaRESIDES: New Smyrna Beach, FloridaHEIGHT: 5’1”WEIGHT: 87 lbs.

F O R E V E R P R E S E N TLXVI // 66

SEESICKISSUE ONE VOLUME ONE

Editor in ChiefAustin Marvin

Creative DirectorMatthew Snell

Director of PhotographyAaron Harriss

DesignMatthew Snell

ArtworkMatthew Snell

Contributing PhotographersAaron HarrissAustin MarvinVictoria Hardina

ProofreadingDalton LangilleChase Bennett

MarketingAustin Marvin

DistributionAustin Marvin

OnlineJim McNeil

AdvertisingEduardo Rodriguez

Content ManagerMatthew Snell

Guest EditorHeather Quinn

CoverAaron Harriss

F O R E V E R P R E S E N T 67 \\ LXVII

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[email protected]

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