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Catalogue 2010 - 2011Books on Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances

and Their Ingredients

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Harry’s Cosmeticology

by Dr Martin RiegerRevised eighth edition, now in two volumes.

Vol. 1; 2009; 522 pages185 x 260 mm/ 7¼”x 10¼” hardbackISBN: 978-0-8206-0000-0 £118.00

Vol. 2; 2009; 444 pages185 x 260 mm/ 7¼”x 10¼” hardbackISBN: 978-0-8206-0001-7 £118.00

Sold complete in two volumes for:ISBN: 978-0-8206-0002-4 £236.00

After a long period of being unavailable Harry’s Cosmeticology is back. This is the same edition (the eighth) as before but the book has now been split into two volumes.

Ralph Harry published Modern Cosmeticology in one modestly sized volume in 1940. Harry was an analyst, a cosmetic chemist and a founder member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Great Britain (later to be called The Society of Cosmetic Scientists). The book covered, in less than 300 pages, almost the whole of cosmetic science with the deliberate exception of perfumery materials. It was not, however, the first or only book to cover cosmetics comprehensively: in the USA Maison G. deNavarre published his The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics in 1941 and in Britain Poucher’s Perfumes & Cosmetics had first appeared in 1923. Less well known, but even earlier was Askinson’s Perfumes and Cosmetics: Their Preparation and Manufacture, which had first appeared In 1892 in the USA and by 1922 had reached a fifth edition.

1.

International Color Handbook

4th edition, 2008; 220 x 260mm/8 1/2” x 10”ISBN: 978-1-882621-46-0£350.00

Includes master lists of approved colour additives that are used in cosmetic products throughout the world, cross-referenced by their Colour Index (CI) numbers or INCI names, Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS) numbers, Colour Index names, and their official names in the European Union, Japan and the United States.

International Regulatory Resource Manual

6th edition, 2007; 220 x 260mm/8 1/2” x 10”£340.00; ISBN: 978-1-882621-37-8

The sixth edition of this book provides an updated overview of cosmetic regulations in 74 countries. It is an invaluable tool for experienced professionals dealing with legal, regulatory, technical and marketing issues for the industry.

Cosmetology - Theory and Practiceby Karlheinz Schrader and Andreas Domsch

2005; 1100 pages 150 x 230 mm/6”x9”3 volumes hardbackBoxed set; £100.00ISBN 978-3-87846-245-3

Cosmetology – Theory and Practice represents a symbiosis of twostandard works and provides a comprehensive overview of the field ofcosmetology. Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika (Schrader) and Die Kosmetischen Präparate (Domsch) have been combined into atextbook and reference work in one. Each volume is profuselyillustrated, mostly in full colour. Volume 1: Hair and skin –research update; Text methods – compatibility, efficacy, safety evaluation; Outlook; Analytical test methods. Volume 2: Hair, cosmetics; Skin cleansing; Soap and syndets; Solvent-based formulas; Oral hygiene. Volume 3: Skin care; Sunscreen formulas; Color cosmetics; Aerosols; Preservation; Antioxidants for product protection; Cosmetics production technology. The three volumes are sold only as a set.

18.

Personal Care Products Council (Formerly CTFA)

Micelle Press is the UK distributor for the trade society now known as the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) of the United States. Before 2008 the PCPC was known as the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association).

This society was first organized in 1894, and known from 1935 until 1971 as the Toilet Goods Association. Its task is to look after the interests of the Association’s members, and in the 1940s it developed standards for cosmetic ingredients. Later it generated a comprehensive list of cosmetic ingredients and distributed a master list, compiled from the memories of twenty companies to a request by CTFA, which was then sent to all CTFA members for comment. Eventually, under the chairmanship of James Akerson, CTFA was able to publish the first edition of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary in 1973. It consisted of just over 250 pages.

This first edition became recognized officially in the USA as the controlling compendium to be used by manufacturers preparing ingredient labels for their products. When the fourth edition was published (1991), CTFA acknowledged the growing international popularity, particularly in those countries considering labelling legislation, and changed the title to the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. Now, combined with the previously separately published Handbook, the compilation has become the standard reference on ingredient names for cosmetic companies throughout the world.

International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook

13th edition, 2010; 220x260mm/8 1/2” x 10”; 4 vols.ISBN: 978-1-882621-43-9; £650.00

This publication provides the most comprehensive listing of ingredients used in cosmetic and personal care products. It contains more than 15,000 International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) labelling names for the United States, the European Union and other countries. These are cross-referenced to nearly 63,000 trade and technical names and 3,400 suppliers from 104 countries. The 12th edition contains over 1,800 new INCI names.

Also available are three guidelines: QA Guidelines, Microbiological Guidelines and Safety Evaluation Guidelines. Prices on application. The PCPC have also recently produced electronic titles, which are available to download. These are not available from Micelle Press but we can provide details. They include the 2009 CIR Compendium (a PDF file), wINCI Web Based International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, the 2009 International Buyer’s Guide (a PDF file) and the 2008 Scientific Regulatory Reference CD.

17.

In the early 1940s, in wartime Britain, many cosmetic companies were diverted to making goods more essential to the war effort, and the British Government, recognizing the psychological value of “beauty” products, encouraged pharmacies to prepare skin creams and other such products. Companies that we now call surfactant manufacturers, saw the chance to supply blended products (or “proprietary emulsifying agents” as Harry described them): blends of fatty alcohols and esters with soaps and other anionic or nonionic surface-active materials. These materials contained all the components, except water, necessary to make an emulsion. It is easy, then, to understand the popularity of Harry’s book, which gave people with some scientific training, but not nessesarily in cosmetic science, the background of, and the knowledge to prepare a variety of cosmetic creams.

Further editions of this book followed, and in 1982 the seventh edition was published, now edited by two people (J.B. Wilkinson and R.J. Moore) and with seventeen contributors. The seventh edition is now very much out of date and a totally new edition, under the editorship of Dr Martin Rieger, has been prepared. The book has been written by an international team of experts in different fields and describes the latest developments in cosmetic chemistry and its industrial applications. Ralph Harry always provided background information on the body part before suggesting formulations, and this style has been continued in this book.

Contents

Volume 1, Part 1 is headed The Substrates and deals with the skin, hair, nail, eye and mouth.

Part 2 is titled Formulation Approaches and Requirements.

Part 3 deals with Common Ingredients and Processes, with chapters on surfactants, emulsions, preservatives, botanicals, and many other types of material.

Part 4 on Formulation and Performance discusses many skin care products, for example sunscreens, skin-cleansing products and shaving preparations.

Volume 2 continues with Part 4.

Part 5, which concludes the main section of book, is called The Manufacture of Cosmetics.

An index completes the book.

2.

Personal Care Products Council (Formerly CTFA)

Micelle Press is the UK distributor for the trade society now known as the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) of the United States. Before 2008 the PCPC was known as the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association).

This society was first organized in 1894, and known from 1935 until 1971 as the Toilet Goods Association. Its task is to look after the interests of the Association’s members, and in the 1940s it developed standards for cosmetic ingredients. Later it generated a comprehensive list of cosmetic ingredients and distributed a master list, compiled from the memories of twenty companies to a request by CTFA, which was then sent to all CTFA members for comment. Eventually, under the chairmanship of James Akerson, CTFA was able to publish the first edition of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary in 1973. It consisted of just over 250 pages.

This first edition became recognized officially in the USA as the controlling compendium to be used by manufacturers preparing ingredient labels for their products. When the fourth edition was published (1991), CTFA acknowledged the growing international popularity, particularly in those countries considering labelling legislation, and changed the title to the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. Now, combined with the previously separately published Handbook, the compilation has become the standard reference on ingredient names for cosmetic companies throughout the world.

International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook

13th edition, 2010; 220x260mm/8 1/2” x 10”; 4 vols.ISBN: 978-1-882621-47-6; £650.00

This publication provides the most comprehensive listing of ingredients used in cosmetic and personal care products. It contains more than 17,000 International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) labelling names for the United States, the European Union and other countries. These are cross-referenced to nearly 65,000 trade and technical names and 3,800 suppliers from 98 countries.

Also available are three guidelines: QA Guidelines, Microbiological Guidelines and Safety Evaluation Guidelines. Prices on application. The PCPC have also recently produced electronic titles, which are available to download. These are not available from Micelle Press but we can provide details. They include the 2009 CIR Compendium (a PDF file), wINCI Web Based International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, the 2009 International Buyer’s Guide (a PDF file) and the 2008 Scientific Regulatory Reference CD.

17.

Perfumes of Yesterdayby David G. Williams

Perfumes of Yesterday provides a fascinating account of the development of perfumery as it progressed mainly from the seventeenth to the twentieth centuries. It focuses particularly on the Victorian and Edwardian eras in Britain, but also follows the parallel development of perfumery in other countries in Europe.

The book’s purpose is to provide a study of the old and mostly simple examples of the perfumer’s art in order to gain some insight into the ancestry, and therefore a better understanding, of the more complex fragrances of today, themselves already the progenitors of the perfumes of tomorrow.

The historical approach of the first part of the book gives context to its main section – formularies of perfumes and toilet waters that have been gathered from published articles and books dating from or before the 1920s and which relate mainly to perfumes of much earlier origin, some from as far back as the eighteenth century, when chemistry had yet to become an exact science and the possibility of its application to perfumery quite beyond imagination. One recipe for an Eau de Cologne dates from 1700.

Following each formula is a discussion of various aspects of the perfume: its composition; the geographical and botanical sources of its ingredients and the method of extraction of its essential oils; its odour properties and the fragrance effects resulting from its particular combination of ingredients – and, here, an analysis of the composition of some of the apparently simple perfumes reveals a staggering complexity of major, minor and trace components. The discussion may also cover the historical context of a perfume’s use; the history behind its name; and the counterparts of its ingredients in modern perfumery.

The book concludes with a discourse on the perfumes of today and tomorrow. The main sections are followed by five appendices, a glossary of some technical terms, a reading list and an index.

2004; 400 pages160 x 240 mm/6 ½’’ x 9 ½’’Hardback; £22.50ISBN 978-1870228-27-5

The Chemistry of Essential Oils: An Introduction for Aromatherapists, Beauticians, Retailers and Students.

by David G. Williams

Second edition, 2008189 x 246 mm/ 7½’’ x 10’’ Hardback; 408 pagesISBN: 978-1870228-312

£37.00

The first edition of this work was the first textbook of its kind to bring to the reader an introduction to the subject from first principles. It was addressed primarily to practitioners and students of aromatherapy, again the main intended audience. It should also appeal to beauticians wishing to extend their knowledge into the fragrance area of cosmetics science, to retailers of essential oils and perfumes and to cosmetic scientists wanting to learn more about the chemistry involved.

The first two chapters are Some Basic Chemistry and Hydrocarbons. In Chapter 3, Functional Groups Containing Oxygen, Nitrogen and Sulphur, the main chemical types of constituents of essential oils, are discussed.

Chapter 4, Essential Oils and Carrier Oils, is concerned mainly with the sources and properties of essential oils; Chapter 5, The Odour Properties of Essential Oils, gives many profiles of well-known essential oils.

Chapter 6 is entitled Quality Control of Essential Oils. Although every chapter has been revised, this one has been dramatically changed since the first edition. A total of 49 chromatograms of essential oils are provided, mainly in pairs using different columns, and with many component ingredients identified.

Chapter 7, Isolated and Synthetic Fragrance Materials, leads to a discussion of the latest research into the composition of the scents of living flowers. Chapter 8, Perfumery - The Fragrant Art, is devoted to perfumery and includes suggestions for simple fragrance experiments with essential oils.

Chapter 9, Personal Fragrances, lists many famous fragrances, along with their date of introduction, their fragrance notes and their type. The final chapter, Burning the Midnight Oil, is intended to help students approach examinations with confidence.

A glossary lists over 450 technical terms associated with essential oils and an extensive index completes the book.

3.

No. 6 – Antiperspirants and Deodorants: Principles of Underarm Technology 1998; 74 pages; £13.50, ISBN 978-1870228-19-0 Contents include: General introduction to underarm technology; governmental regulations; understanding of underarm actives; antiperspirant active salts; clinical evaluation methods; andformulation and delivery systems.

No. 7 – Microemulsions in Cosmetics 2001; 106 pages; £20.00, ISBN 978-1870228-20-6 Contents include: Phase behaviour of amphiphile, water, oil system; HLB of amphiphile; solubilization, microemulsions and emulsions; formation, structure and preparation conditions of microemulsions; ultrafine emulsion preparation; control of droplet size; and stability.

Monographs on Cosmetics Raw Material Analysis and Quality Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters

Edited by Hilda Butler 1994; 156 pages; A4/8½”x 12” Paperback; £25.00 ISBN 978-1870228-11-4

Analytical chemistry has played an important role in the development of the cosmetics industry, and continues to do so. It is an essential aspect of quality control and product safety and has led to the discovery of new cosmetic ingredients. This volume summarizes the many technologies employed by both analytic experts and cosmetic scientists in general, for the analysis and quality assessment of certain cosmetic raw materials.

Analysis of Polymers for Cosmetics by Janusz Jachowicz

2004; 308 pagesA4/8½’’x 12’’Paperback; £39.25 ISBN 978-3-87846-244-6

The objective of this monograph is to review the methods of characterization and analysis of polymers used in cosmetic products. The book is not designed to provide an exhaustive, up-to-date analysis of the field, but rather to give cosmetic researchers a basic overview of the types of analysis carried out for new and established products. Each method is illustrated with one or two examples of analysis in order to demonstrate the basic capabilities of each technique.

16.

No. 1 – Principles of Product Evaluation: Objective Sensory Methods1987; 70 pages; £13.50, ISBN 978-1870228-05-3 Designed as a laboratory aid to cosmetic scientists who require an overview of product evaluation, the monograph presents a framework, illustrated by examples, of the principles of product evaluation. The examples aim to help the nonstatistician and nonexpert to understand and use the techniques described. Contents include: General introduction to product evaluation; subjective and objective evaluation; and examples of speciality product testing.

No. 2 – The Fundamentals of Stability Testing 1992; 30 pages; £9.00, ISBN 978-1870228-06-0 This monograph deals with the practical rather than the theoretical aspects of stability tests on cosmetic products. It is intended to provide guidance for the chemist or technician in the laboratory. It particularly recommends clear identification of the precise objectives and thoughtful planning of each test so as to achieve major economies of time and effort. Contents include: General introduction to, and objectives and principles of, stability testing; test conditions; selection of samples; and product shelf-life.

No. 3 – An Introduction to Rheology1997; 44 pages; £11.00, ISBN 978-1870228-16-9 Contents include: Introduction to rheology; using cosmetic rheology; rheological additives; instrumentation; and interpreting rheological profiles.

No. 4 – Introduction to Cosmetic Emulsions and Emulsification1997; 70 pages; £13.50, ISBN 978-1870228-17-6 This monograph describes methods of preparation and basic properties of cosmetic macroemulsions. It deals with the basic principles and practice rather than the theory of emulsification, and recommendsmethods for overcoming many of the problems encountered during formulation. Contents include: Sections on the nature, creation, preservation and stability of emulsions.

No. 5 – An Introduction to Cosmetics Microbiology 1999; 68 pages; £13.50, ISBN 978-1870228-18-3 Contents include: Microbial contamination; plant sanitation; GMPs and house organisms; preservatives; efficacy test methods and acceptance criteria; cosmetics that counteract conditions caused by micro-organisms; effects on skin physiology; harmonization of test methods; and self-preserving cosmetics.

SCIENTIFICM NOGRAPHS

Monographs on cosmetics science published on behalf of the IFSCC (A5 paperback).

15.4.

A recent review of Chemistry of Essential Oils, 2nd edition.

“The writing is unusually good for a reference book, and indeed could be held as a model of what serious nonfiction for the general reader can be. The graphic design and presentation of the tables and figures is exemplary.....The heart of the book has long chapters on the odor properties and quality control of the oils.....The book is so full of useful information, imparted in graceful prose, that it can be recommended unconditionally and with pleasure.”

Steve Hermann, Diffusion LLC -- Journal of Cosmetic Science, Dec 2009

Aroma Scienceby Salvatore Paul Gimelli

2001; 250 pages180 x 240mm / 7’’ x 9 ½’’Hardback; £10.00* ISBN 978-1870228-25-1

This book is an expanded version of the lecture notes and handouts compiled by the author and presented to students attending a course on aroma chemistry as part of a Master’s degree programme in cosmetics science at Fairleigh Dickinson University, New Jersey.

Written for the novice as well as the practitioner in the field, the textbook is intended to teach the science involved in the study of aroma materials. Examples and problems are provided and explained, and practice problems with answers are available for study and review. The book is divided into four sections. The first section on odour sensation deals with olfaction theories, the correlation of odours and molecular structures and the properties, sources and uses of natural aroma materials. Part 2 deals with synthetic aroma products – the sources, properties, uses and syntheses of such aroma compounds as aromatics, heterocyclics, aliphatics, alicyclics and terpenes. Part 3 covers aroma analytical methods and describes the procedures used for the evaluation and identification of aroma compounds. Part 4 deals with the creation of perfumes, the application of fragrances in cosmetic formulations and the aging and stability of aroma compounds and their use as therapeutic agents.

*For calculating the postage charge, regard the book as costing £20.00








15.

Perfumes of Yesterdayby David G. Williams

Perfumes of Yesterday provides a fascinating account of the development of perfumery as it progressed mainly from the seventeenth to the twentieth centuries. It focuses particularly on the Victorian and Edwardian eras in Britain, but also follows the parallel development of perfumery in other countries in Europe.

The book’s purpose is to provide a study of the old and mostly simple examples of the perfumer’s art in order to gain some insight into the ancestry, and therefore a better understanding, of the more complex fragrances of today, themselves already the progenitors of the perfumes of tomorrow.

The historical approach of the first part of the book gives context to its main section – formularies of perfumes and toilet waters that have been gathered from published articles and books dating from or before the 1920s and which relate mainly to perfumes of much earlier origin, some from as far back as the eighteenth century, when chemistry had yet to become an exact science and the possibility of its application to perfumery quite beyond imagination. One recipe for an Eau de Cologne dates from 1700.

Following each formula is a discussion of various aspects of the perfume: its composition; the geographical and botanical sources of its ingredients and the method of extraction of its essential oils; its odour properties and the fragrance effects resulting from its particular combination of ingredients – and, here, an analysis of the composition of some of the apparently simple perfumes reveals a staggering complexity of major, minor and trace components. The discussion may also cover the historical context of a perfume’s use; the history behind its name; and the counterparts of its ingredients in modern perfumery.

The book concludes with a discourse on the perfumes of today and tomorrow. The main sections are followed by five appendices, a glossary of some technical terms, a reading list and an index.

2004; 400 pages160 x 240 mm/6 ½’’ x 9 ½’’Hardback; £22.50ISBN 978-1870228-27-5

5.

I congratulate Mr Hunting.... The encyclopedia will make a worthwhile addition to the cosmetic library and should prove to be a very valuable reference guide. Cosmetics & Toiletries

Fills a gap in the needs of the shampoo formulation chemist and will be useful to both experienced and novice shampoo formulators. Journal of the American Chemical Society

An authoritative, interesting book, one containing an assortment of information useful to shampoo manufacturers, formulators and raw material promoters. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

What’s in a shampoo, indeed? A lot of different kind of things, as this fine book reveals....This is about as definitive as one can get in this field.... Chemical Marketing Reporter

The Concise Surfactant Reference by Eric Lomax1998; 142 pages; A4/8 1/2”x 12”Softback; (bound with a clear cellophane cover); £90.00ISBN 978-1870228-22-0

This reference work explains, with the help of coloured diagrams and many black and white illustrations, the structure, preparation and properties of the common surfactant types - anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric. The book concludes with a discussion of toxicological and environmental aspects, an extensive glossary of surfactant terms and an encyclopaedic list of surfactant types.

Surfactants in Personal Care Products by Eric Lomax 2007, 212 pages, A4/8 1/2”x 12”Softback (bound with a clear cellophane cover); £90.00ISBN: 978-1870228-329

Surfactants play a major part in most personal care applications. In many formulations, such as those for hair, shower, bath and oral hygiene products, their purpose is to clean. In other products, such as creams and lotions, surfactants provide the necessary emulsification. A final section contains formulations and another an extensive glossary and index.

Surfactant Dictionary & Encyclopedia by Eric Lomax1997, 330 pages; A4/8 1/2”x 12” Loose leaf (in a ring binder); £90.00 ISBN: 978-1870228-237

The author’s aim has been to produce “a reference book on surfactants in easy-to-understand form, which would answer commonly encountered questions quickly and succinctly”. The sturdy, loose-leaf binder format enables the reader to add his or her own material.

14.

Encyclopedia of Shampoo Ingredients by A.L.L. Hunting

1983; 480 pages215 x 280mm; Hardback; £10.00*ISBN 978-0-9608752-0-7

Encyclopedia of Conditioning Rinse Ingredients by A.L.L. Hunting

1987; 506 pages 215 x 280mmHardback; £10.00*ISBN 978-1870228-02-2

Together, these books form a complete encyclopedia of surfactants, covering between them the major types -- e.g. foaming agents and anionic surfactants, principally used in shampoos, and emulsifiers and nonionic and cationic surfactants, mainly used in conditioners. Other ingredient types are dealt with in depth (e.g. natural ingredients, preservatives, viscosity control agents), and details regarding the manufacture and properties of all these materials, as well as the reasons for their use in hair products, are provided.The chemistry of each ingredient is discussed in detail, as are the requirements of each marketing segment (“protein” shampoo, “baby” shampoo, “moisturizing” rinse, etc.) Very few new major ingredients have been developed since these books were compiled. They contain, in order of use, the ingredients used in nearly every shampoo and conditioning rinse on the market at that time.


Some reviews of Encyclopedia of Shampoo Ingredients and Encyclopedia of Conditioning Rinse Ingredients:

Although a few years old now, the books are not dated because most shampoos and creams use the same basic chemicals. For the lay person, the books give information about what goes into these toiletries, and why, and for the professional they provide a complete background on anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, as well as much other information on all types of ingredients. No laboratory involved in preparing emulsions or foaming preparations should be, as they say, without these books.

Amazon website, dated 23 Feb 2002, (article accessed 3 Feb 2010)

13.

Some reviews of Perfumes of Yesterday

“Perfumes of Yesterday is an excellent review of the history of perfumery from a master of the subject who has taught and inspired many of those who work in the industry today…. This treasure trove of a book will prove a valuable source of introduction and inspiration for those in the fragrance industry and could have a wider appeal as a record of social and technological history.”Charles Sell – Chemistry World, January 2005

“Having read this very fine book, which I commend to all students of perfumery and also their master perfumer mentor and tutors, and indeed to the many lovers of good books about the fascinating subject of perfumery history, I consider that the book is a ‘must have’ and should be bought from the publisher without delay.”John Bailey – Founder, The Perfumers Guild, Ltd.

“The introduction to the chronicle of the 18th-20th centuries provides a… 75-page tour de force of the transition from art-and-craft tradition to science and technology…. those seriously interested in perfumery will find a unique collection of what appears to be quite carefully prepared formulations for perfumes and toilet waters drawn from history…. With surprisingly useful appendices and index… Summing up: Highly recommended.”L. W. Fine of Columbia University – Choice: Current Reviews for Academic Libraries, April 2005

6.

Overseas stockists of Micelle Press books:For USA and Canada:

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Tel (+1) –516 767 7171Fax (+1) –516 944 9824

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Email: [email protected] or [email protected]

We have a large stock of used, shop-soiled and out-of-date new books for sale. Please ask for a copy of the list if such books are of interest.





Together, these books form a complete encyclopedia of surfactants, covering between them the major types -- e.g. foaming agents and anionic surfactants, principally used in shampoos, and emulsifiers and nonionic and cationic surfactants, mainly used in conditioners. Other ingredient types are dealt with in depth (e.g. natural ingredients, preservatives, viscosity control agents), and details regarding the manufacture and properties of all these materials, as well as the reasons for their use in hair products, are provided.The chemistry of each ingredient is discussed in detail, as are the requirements of each marketing segment (“protein” shampoo, “baby” shampoo, “moisturizing” rinse, etc.) Very few new major ingredients have been developed since these books were compiled. They contain, in order of use, the ingredients used in nearly every shampoo and conditioning rinse on the market at that time.


Some reviews of Encyclopedia of Shampoo Ingredients and Encyclopedia of Conditioning Rinse Ingredients:


Amazon website, dated 23 Feb 2002, (article accessed 3 Feb 2010)

13.

I congratulate Mr Hunting.... The encyclopedia will make a worthwhile addition to the cosmetic library and should prove to be a very valuable reference guide. Cosmetics & Toiletries

Fills a gap in the needs of the shampoo formulation chemist and will be useful to both experienced and novice shampoo formulators. Journal of the American Chemical Society

An authoritative, interesting book, one containing an assortment of information useful to shampoo manufacturers, formulators and raw material promoters. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

What’s in a shampoo, indeed? A lot of different kind of things, as this fine book reveals....This is about as definitive as one can get in this field.... Chemical Marketing Reporter

The Concise Surfactant Reference by Eric Lomax1998; 142 pages; A4/8 1/2”x 12”Softback; £90.00ISBN 978-1870228-22-0

This reference work explains, with the help of coloured diagrams and many black and white illustrations, the structure, preparation and properties of the common surfactant types - anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric. The book concludes with a discussion of toxicological and environmental aspects, an extensive glossary of surfactant terms and an encyclopaedic list of surfactant types.

Surfactants in Personal Care Products by Eric Lomax 2007, 212 pages, A4/8 1/2”x 12”Soft-back (bound with a clear cellophane cover); £90.00ISBN: 978-1870228-329

Surfactants play a major part in most personal care applications. In many formulations, such as those for hair, shower, bath and oral hygiene products, their purpose is to clean. In other products, such as creams and lotions, surfactants provide the necessary emulsification. A final section contains formulations and another an extensive glossary and index.

Surfactant Dictionary & Encyclopedia by Eric Lomax1997, 330 pages; A4/8 1/2”x 12” Loose leaf (in a ring binder); £90.00 ISBN: 978-1870228-237

The author’s aim has been to produce “a reference book on surfactants in easy-to-understand form, which would answer commonly encountered questions quickly and succinctly.” The sturdy, loose-leaf binder format enables the reader to add his or her own material.

14.





Together, these books form a complete encyclopedia of surfactants, covering between them the major types -- e.g. foaming agents and anionic surfactants, principally used in shampoos, and emulsifiers and nonionic and cationic surfactants, mainly used in conditioners. Other ingredient types are dealt with in depth (e.g. natural ingredients, preservatives, viscosity control agents), and details regarding the manufacture and properties of all these materials, as well as the reasons for their use in hair products, are provided.The chemistry of each ingredient is discussed in detail, as are the requirements of each marketing segment (“protein” shampoo, “baby” shampoo, “moisturizing” rinse, etc.) Very few major ingredients have been developed since that time. They contain, in order of use, the ingredients used in nearly every shampoo and conditioning rinse on the market at that time.

*For calculating postage charges, assume each book to be £30.00.

Some Reviews of Encyclopedia of Shampoo Ingredients and Encyclopedia of Conditioning Rinse Ingredients:


Amazon website, dated 23 Feb. 2002, (article accessed 3 Feb 2010)

13.

Introduction to Perfumeryby Tony Curtis and David G. Williams

Second edition, 2008; 800 pages189 x 246 mm/ 7½’’ x 10’’Hardback; £42.00ISBN: 978-1870228-24-4

First published in 1994, this book has become the standard reference work for students of cosmetics and perfumery science throughout the world. Intended to be ideal for all introductory undergraduate courses in perfumery, it provides a wide-ranging introduction to the art, science, technology and business of perfumery without assuming any prior knowledge of perfume chemistry or business concepts. The process of perfume creation is discussed from the artistic, technical and business viewpoints, and the key concepts of fragrance chemistry and business needed to understand the creative process are presented.

The power of fragrances to communicate is strongly emphasized and an explicit framework of odour vocabulary provided. Detailed discussion is included of the development process of new products and the central role of the perfume brief. For this second edition, all chapters have been revised, some considerably, and the book will be of great value to any writer or researcher wishing to consider any issues relating to fragranced products.

Tony Curtis, Principal Lecturer in Business Policy and International Business at the Plymouth Business School, Plymouth University, has many years of experience in the aroma trades industry in research, development, production, application, creative perfumery, evaluations and marketing. He lectures on international business with special emphasis on the aroma trades. David Williams is a consultant and author of books on essential oils. He has taught and developed the teaching of perfume technology in both further and higher education, in industry and by distance learning.

Some reviews of Introduction to Perfumery

...Intended as a first-year university text, (it) provides information on aspects of the business of perfumery, from the properties of the materials used to the techniques used to market the finished fragrances. .... I firmly believe this is the best text book anyone can buy who wants to know about the perfumery industry.... it is highly recommended.... this book has been a great help to me throughout my university course in perfumery... – Based on reviews in Amazon

“This will be a very useful tool for those looking for a comprehensive text on the business of perfumery.”– Felex Buccelato – Perfumer & Flavorist, May 2002

7.

Chemical Specialties: Domestic and Industrial by Louis Chalmers and Peter Bathe

Volume 1: 2nd edition1978; 219 pages 160x240mm/6 1/2”x 9 1/2”Hardback; £10.00*ISBN 978-1870228-00-8

Volume 2: 2nd edition1979; 382 pages160x240mm/6 1/2”x 9 1/2”Hardback; £10.00*ISBN 978-1870228-01-5

This book discusses, in two volumes, the chemistry, manufacture and application of a range of household specialities, and thus brings together, from a variety of sources, data on widely differing products that have as common ground their type of market and their dependence upon quite specific, though varying, user requirements and expectations. *For calculating the postage charge, regard Vol. 1 as costing £15.00 and Vol. 2 as costing £20.00.

Volume 1: Soap; Synthetic detergents; Laundry syndets; Enzymes in the laundry process; Fabric conditioners; Laundry bleaches; Optical brightening agents; Household pests and their control; Moths, wool-digesting insects and mothproofing. Volume 2: Polishes; Disinfectants; Adhesives; Abrasives; Paints; Aerosols; Household toiletries.

Detergent Analysis: A Handbook for Cost-effective Quality Control by B.M. Milwidsky and D.M. Gabriel

Longman 1982, Micelle Press 1989 160 x 240mm/6 1/2”x 9 1/2”Hardback; 310 pages; £10.00*ISBN 978-1870228-03-9

Detergent Analysis is a handbook for the industrial laboratory, where time and costs are crucial to efficient and economical processing.*For calculating the postage charge, regard this book as costing £20.00

12.

Carbohydrates: Fundamentals and Applicationsby Salvatore Paul Gimelli

2006; 226 pages 160 x 240 mm/6 ½’’ x 9 ½’’Hardback; £15.00*ISBN 978-1870228-29-9

The author’s expectation is to introduce to the novice and the practitioner the structures, reactions and applications of a group of compounds known as carbohydrates.

Carbohydrates play an important role in our lives and in life itself. Nature provides us with a plentiful supply of glucose, which is produced by the simple reaction of carbon dioxide and water under special conditions. Glucose can then polymerise to form glycogen, which is stored as the energy supply for humans and other mammals or is polymerised to form cellulose which serves as a structural material in plants.

This study of carbohydrates, therefore, includes topics such as the reactions, structural determinations, laboratory syntheses, analytical procedures and their use in cosmetics and other products. A question-and-answer session is also provided for those who wish to use the book as a self-study text.


Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics II edited by Petrina Fridd

1996; 190 pagesA5/5½”x 9” Hardback; £15.00ISBN 978-1870228-13-8

This book is based on a symposium entitled ‘Naturals’, organized by theSociety of Cosmetic Scientists. It records some of the papers presented at that meeting on 23-24 November 1992. The chapters are entitled: The true meaning of “natural”; How safe is“natural”; Natural colours for cosmetic and related applications; Natural lipids: valuable raw materials in cosmetics; Vegetable fats for cosmetic applications; New opportunities for the application ofshellac in cosmetics; Algae-derived proteins: their extraction andaction; Function and substantiation of some natural plant materials; Herbal complexes with proven efficacy; and The changing role of plantextracts in drug discovery and personal care.

11.








15.

Cosmetic Science MonographsSeries editor Hilda Butler

No. 1: Fundamentals of Human Hair Scienceby J. Alan Swift

1997; 96 pages 170 x 240mm / 7’’ x 9 ½’’Paperback; £9.00 ISBN 978-1870228-14-5

This book describes the structure, chemistry and some aspects of the biology and physical properties of human hair as a basis for the scientific understanding of toiletry process marketed to treat and maintain healthy hair. Its content is essentially the same as the information that the author has presented at approximately 18-month intervals over the last 25 years to students attending the postgraduate course organized under the auspices of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Great Britain. Over this period the information has been updated progressively in the light of new knowledge.

No. 2: Hair Colorants - Chemistry and Toxicology by John F. Corbett 1998; 62 pages170 x 240mm/ 7”x 9½”Paperback; £9.00ISBN 978-1870228-21-3

The desire to change the natural colour of hair appears to be an innatehuman characteristic. In this book, John Corbett discusses the chemicals, both natural and synthetic, used to produce this change. Chapters are devoted to permanent, semipermanent and temporary hair colourants and to progressive or metallic hair colourants. The toxicology of these materials is discussed in a final section.

Hair colours are complex chemicals and have to be understood to beformulated properly and safely. This book will explain the chemistry ofthese materials and enable chemists working on colour shampoos and hair dyes to choose the correct colourant for the effect required.

Both books may be bought together for just £16.00

8.

Carbohydrates: Fundamentals and Applicationsby Salvatore Paul Gimelli

2006; 226 pages 160 x 240 mm/6 ½’’ x 9 ½’’Hardback; £15.00*ISBN 978-1870228-29-9

The author’s expectation is to introduce to the novice and the practitioner the structures, reactions and applications of a group of compounds known as carbohydrates.

Carbohydrates play an important role in our lives and in life itself. Nature provides us with a plentiful supply of glucose, which is produced by the simple reaction of carbon dioxide and water under special conditions. Glucose can then polymerise to form glycogen, which is stored as the energy supply for humans and other mammals or is polymerised to form cellulose which serves as a structural material in plants.

This study of carbohydrates, therefore, includes topics such as the reactions, structural determinations, laboratory syntheses, analytical procedures and their use in cosmetics and other products. A question-and-answer session is also provided for those who wish to use the book as a self-study text.


Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics II edited by Petrina Fridd

1996; 190 pagesA5/5½”x 9” Hardback; £15.00ISBN 978-1870228-13-8

This book is based on a symposium entitled ‘Naturals’, organized by theSociety of Cosmetic Scientists. It records some of the papers presented at that meeting on 23-24 November 1992. The chapters are entitled: The true meaning of “natural”; How safe is“natural”; Natural colours for cosmetic and related applications; Natural lipids: valuable raw materials in cosmetics; Vegetable fats for cosmetic applications; New opportunities for the application ofshellac in cosmetics; Algae-derived proteins: their extraction andaction; Function and substantiation of some natural plant materials; Herbal complexes with proven efficacy; and The changing role of plantextracts in drug discovery and personal care.

11.

The Formulation and Preparation of Cosmetics, Fragrances and Flavors by Louis Appel

1994, revised edition; 464 pages160 x 240mm/6’’x 9 ½’’Hardback; £32.50ISBN 978-1870228-10-7

This book is a revised version of Louis Appell’s well-known work, Cosmetics, Fragrances and Flavors, first published in 1982. An index has been added for greater ease of reference.

The book deals with the many aspects of the formulation of cosmetics, perfumes and flavours, and discusses their chemistry and manufacturing procedures. Chapter I, the main part of the book, is concerned with the formulation of cosmetics and toiletries of every description. The chapter contains over 200 ingredient label declarations of leading cosmetics, and more than 250 formulations are suggested for the preparation of similar products.

Chapter II deals with the physical aspects of odour, summing up the author’s findings. Chapter III discusses the creation of perfumes according to the author’s principle of olfactory equilibrium and equivalent weights. The systematically arranged formulas include 50 French-style perfumes, 30 high-class colognes, 75 floral perfumes, 130 cosmetic perfumes, some imitation essential oils, speciality perfume bases and perfumes for cosmetics and soaps. Chapter IV discusses the formulation of flavours; Chapter V deals with the stability of aromatic chemicals and essential oils in various cosmetic media; and Chapters VI and VII are devoted to syntheses of specific aromatic chemicals.

This concise yet comprehensive formulary contains practical suggestions for the successful formulation of a wide range of cosmetics, toiletries, perfumes and flavours and will be invaluable to formulating chemists in all branches of the personal-care industry.

9.

A Formulary of Cosmetic Preparations

Vol. 1: Decorative Cosmetics Compiled and edited by Anthony L.L. Hunting

1991; 296 pagesA4/81/2’’x 12’’Hardback; £25.00*ISBN 978-1870228-04-6

Vol. 2: Creams, Lotions and Milks Compiled and edited by Anthony L.L. Hunting

1993; 630 pagesA4/81/2’’x 12’’Hardback; £35.00*ISBN 978-1870228-09-1

*For calculating the postage charge, regard Vol.1 as costing £30.00 and Vol.2 as costing £40.00

In both books the suppliers’ sections and the glossaries have been updated, but the recipes are as originally published. The subjects covered in volume 1 are: Face cosmetics; Nail products; Lip cosmetics; Body cosmetics; Eye cosmetics; and Perfumes and colognes. Recipes of existing products are provided.

Volume 2 contains over 570 formulations for cosmetic emulsions. Part I contains general formulations for miscellaneous creams, lotions, milks, and gels and also provides recipes for solubilizing and emulsifying particular ingredients. Part II is devoted to the formulation of the following cosmetic creams: All-purpose products; Moisturizing products; Cleansing masks, creams and lotions; Facial treatment products; Foundation, vanishing and day creams; Hand products; Emollient products; and Baby products.

These volumes contain detailed glossaries of the ingredient names used in the formulations, the addresses of ingredient suppliers and, where applicable, of their agents throughout the world. They include extensive bibliographies and indexes to the formulations, both in alphabetical order of formulation and of formulating company, and to the ingredients recommended in the formulations, both in order of chemical name and of trade name.

10.

Global Ingredient and Formulation Guides

These guides, small in format but containing many pages, are preparedannually. We can supply the Guides for the following years: 2002; 2003; 2004; 2005-6; 2007; and 2008 editions. Prices on application.

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