sew invisible zippers

8/12/2019 Sew Invisible Zippers

1/4

Threads

staff

seamstress

sharesher

technique

B Y N O R M A B U C K O

40 THREADS


2/4

allothers,ScottPhillips.Stylingcredit

s:earrings

JessicaSimpson(Macys.com)

Invisible zippers are the sweethearts of all garment

sewers, and they deserve the perfect finish at the

neckline, too. After a good many years of altering

ready-to-wear garments professionally, Ive settled on a

method for installing an invisible zipper and finishing thegarment at the zippers top edge.

My method minimizes bulk at the top edge and gives a

clean finish on the wrong and right sides. It couldnt

be easier because there is no hand sewing with this

methodit can all be done with your machine. Once

youve mastered this technique, youll never want to use

traditional zippers again.

Norma Bucko is Treadsstaff seamstress.

Put your best foot forwardTo sew the best invisible zipper possible, you need the right foot on your machine.

Use the invisible zipper foot made specifically for yoursewing machine. This foot is generally available through your

local dealer. Avoid using generic plastic invisible zipper feet,as they are not stable enough to produce good results.

You also need the standard zipper foot and yourregular multipurpose sewing foot. Use theseto close the seam below the zipper and toattach the lining to the garment.

If an invisible zipper footis unavailable, you can use astandard zipper foot. Beforesewing, open the zipper and

press the coils flat and awayfrom the tape. Stitch closeto the coils, but do not sewon top of them, as thishinders the zipper fromclosing smoothly.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT

STANDARD ZIPPER FOOT

MULTIPURPOSE F

The invisible zipper foot has

two grooves for the zipper

coils to glide through.

Using a standardzipper foot, sewclose to the invis-ible zipper coils.

From the zippers wrong side, pressthe coils flat.

Zipper coil

WS

RS

AUGUST/SE PTE MBE R 201 1w w w . t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m


3/4

Apply the zipperNow you see itnow you dont. Follow these steps to sew a truly invisible zipper. Then

follow the instructions on the next page to finish the top edge.

1Sew the seamthat the zipper

will occupy.Sewfrom the hemto 2 or 3 inchesfrom the zipperposition.

2Lay the openzipper over the

seam allowancewith right sidestogether.With topedges aligned, placethe zipper teethalong the seamline.The 58-inch-wideseam allowancewill extend about14inch beyond thezipper tape.

WS

RS

3Use the invisiblezipper foot to

sew the zipper tothe garment.Sewfrom top to bottom.As you stitch, thezipper coils fit intothe foots groove, sothe stitching can stayclose to the coil. To

facilitate this, gentlyroll the coils awaywhile sewing. Repeaton the opposite side.If you have a waistlineseam, go to step 4first.

Sew withthe coils inthe footsgroove.

Position thegarment and

zipper rightsides together,with the teeth

along theseamline.

4Match seamlines before sewing the second side.If you need tmatch a seamline, such as a waistline seam, baste the second

1 inch above and below the intersecting seam. Then close the zippcheck that the seam matches. If it does not, there is only a short pto unsew. When it matches, finish step 3 to sew the zipper in plac

WS WSRS

Basting

Waist seam

Mark the

lower zipper stoplocation.

Stitch from thehem to 2 inches

from the zipperstop.

5Close the zipper.Withthe standard zipper

foot, sew the open seam

section below the zipper.Hold the zipper tapeaway from the foot while

you sew close to thezipper. Open and closethe zipper a few times tobe sure there are no spotsthat catch.

Hold the zipper tapeout of the way.

Close the openingwith a standard

zipper foot.

ZIPPER

RESOURCESAtlantaThread.com

Ghees.com

TheZipperLady.com

ZipperConnection.com

ZipperStop.com

RS

WS

42 T H R E A D S


4/4

Photoc

redithere

Finish by understitchinthe neckline.

Understitching

WHEN THERES A FACING

Facing pieces may be a bit smaller than a lining, but the sewing process is

the same. Simply follow the instructions above for the lining, and substitute

facing for lining for a beautifully finished neckline edge. Remember to

first install the invisible zipper, and then add the facing.

Get a bulk-free finishFor professional results, install the zipper, and then follow the machine-sewn process below.

lining is sewn to the zipper seam before the seam that crosses the zippers top edge is finishe

These instructions describe the neckline seam, but they also can apply to a waistline seam.

1

Assemble the lining.

For the zipper seam,sew the lining from thehem to where it meetsthe zipper.

2With a standardzipper foot, sew the

lining to the zipper.Extend the lining seamallowance 14inch beyondthe garment seam edge.Stitch with a 58-inchseam allowance fromthe lining edge. The

seamline is placed 14inchfrom the teeth so theywont catch the lining.

Stitch the garment andlining together withthe lining extending 14inch beyond the seamallowance.

The 14inch

distance keeps

the lining from

catching in the

zipper teeth.

14inch

3Turn the liningand garment right

sides together with thezipper teeth exactlyat the fold.Sew theneckline seam.

Turn the garmentand lining right sidestogether, with the zip-

per teeth inside alongthe fold.

Zipperteethhiddeninsidethe fold

4Trim, clip, andunderstitch around

the neckline.Carefullypress all the seams.

WS

RS

Smooth and clean,

this bulk-free methodgives your garments

a professional finish

inside and out.

When sewn, the necklines top

edge is smooth and the zipper

teeth are exactly at CB.

AUGUST/SE PTE MBE R 201 1w w w . t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m

sew invisible zippers

Documents