sewing and design tools dictionary

8/2/2019 Sewing and Design Tools Dictionary

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Sewing and Design Tools

Tools DictionaryClick on the pictures to see a larger version

Many of these items are available on-line.For some sources go toNotions: Where to find them on-line.

Awl Wooden handle with sharp metal point. Used forMaking small holes in paper.

Beeswax Thread is drawn through the slits in the plastic caseto coat and strengthen it.

ButtonholeCutter

Flat, sharp blade on a wooden handle and a smallwooden cutting board. The blade cuts the

buttonhole against the board without marking thetable.

C-Thru Rule Transparent ruler with a grid of markings every 1/16"or 1/8", sometimes has a 0-centering marking. Usedto mark seam allowances and draw lines.

Centering Rulers Ruler designed with "0" in the center and measuredout towards both ends. Used to easily find thecenter of a line or equal distances away from apoint.
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Chalk, Tailor's Triangular or square pieces of clay chalk used tomark fabric before cutting or stitching. Comes in avariety of colors to suit different colors offabric. Wax chalk should be used carefully becauseif ironed, it will melt into the fabric. Varieties withdisappearing ink may leave a chemical residue inthe fabric.

Compass Instrument consisting of two legs, one of which hasa sharp point at the end and the other holds apencil. The legs are joined at the top and are heldtogether by an adjustable hinge to provide a varietyof markings. Used to create curves, circles.

Cuff Rulers Rulers made in the exact width of a cuff and usedfor quick and accurate measurements. Comes invarying cuff widths, common are 1-1/2" and 2" wide.

Curved Rulers Also called "French Curves." A set of rulers, plasticor metal, in a variety of sizes, all with differentangles and curves. Used to smooth curved lines onpatterns, typically in the collar, armhole and necklineareas.

Cutter, Rotary This instrument has a round blade like a pizzacutter. It may be used to cut out patterns or forcutting through multiple layers of fabric. Blade sizesinclude: 18mm (about "); 28mm (about 1 1/8");45mm (about 1 "); and 60mm (about 2 3/8"). Mustbe used with a special cutting mat.

Dressmaker'sTracing Paper

Paper with a coating of colored wax or chalk on oneor both sides. Used to transfer markings frompattern to fabric.

Eraser There are various types of rubber erasers. Thekneadable type used for art is preferable as itlessens the chance of ripping the patternpaper. Used to get rid of unwanted lines and "cleanup" the pattern.
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French Curves A set of rulers, plastic or metal, in a variety of sizes,all with different angles and curves. Used to smoothcurved lines on patterns, typically at the collar,armhole, and neckline areas. May also referspecifically to an armscye ruler. See "Metal Rulers,Armscye" and "Curved Rulers."

Metal Rulers,Armscye

Aluminum ruler with strong curve. Used to create orcorrect the neckline and armscye (or armhole)curves.

Metal Rulers, HipCurve

Also called "Curve Stick." Aluminum ruler with slightcurve to create the hip, hem and lapel curves.

Metal Rulers, "L"Square

Aluminum ruler with precise 90 degree angle. Usedto create perpendicular lines and to measure offparallel lines.

Metal Rulers,Straight

Aluminum ruler to precisely mark andmeasure. Comes in a variety of sizes for a variety ofuses, see "Cuff Rulers", "Centering Rulers"

NotcherA tool which creates 1/4" deep square cuts in theedge of patterns. Used to make notches on slopersor patterns.

Oaktag Heavy paper (lighter than cardboard) used to makeslopers. This paper is more durable than patternpaper and will keep longer.

Pattern Hook Metal hook and "T"-bar strung together with 8" ofnylon cord. Used to hold sloper or pattern piecestogether in storage. Also comes in an all metal type
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Pattern Punch A metal tool designed with a stable base and handlethat, when pushed, cuts a circular hole inpaper. Used to make a hole in a pattern or sloper toaccommodate the pattern hook. Tool can makeholes in a variety of sizes.

Pencil,Mechanical

A pencil with a part to turn to extend the lead. Doesnot go into a pencil sharpener. Gives a moreconsistent sharp point than a pencil that must besharpened.

Pencil,Colored

A pencil with colored lead. Used in correcting patternlines.

PinCushion

May be any shape or size. Standard type is tomatoshaped with a strawberry attached at the top. Thestrawberry is filled with coarse sand that will sharpen

pins and needles stuck into it. Some pin cushionsattach to the wrist. Used to hold pins and needleswhile working.

Push Pins A sharp pin approximately 1" long with a plastic ormetal drum-shaped end.Used to hold pattern piecesdown on a cork covered table. Also used to "walk" orpivot pattern pieces to determine correct fit.

Rotary Cutter This instrument has a round blade like a pizzacutter. It may be used to cut out patterns or forcutting through multiple layers of fabric. Blade sizesinclude: 18mm (about "); 28mm (about 1 1/8");45mm (about 1 "); and 60mm (about 2 3/8"). Mustbe used with a special cutting mat.
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Scissors,Fabric

A good quality pair of scissors used specifically forcutting out fabric. Industrial scissors may be 10" inlength, custom sewing may use 8." Good brands areMundial, Wiss, Gingher and others. Never usethese for cutting out paper as it dulls the blade

Scissors,Paper

A pair of scissors used specifically for cutting paper.

SeamRipper

Small handled device with a sharp hook at one endthat can slide under a stitch or a row of stitches andcut them. Used to take out unwanted lines ofsewing.

SewingGauge

A ruler, typically 6" long, with a movable measuringguide. Used to mark hems and make alterations.

Snips Small cutting device which can fit into the palm ofyour hand. Used at the sewing machine to cut offthread at the end of a row of stitching or used wheninspecting a garment to cut off unwanted threads

Straight Pins Standard sewing pins. Pins come in a variety ofstyles, widths, and lengths. Some have large glassor plastic heads. Used to pin fabric to fabric or

fabric to pattern. Selection depends on the type offabric and personal preference.
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Tailor's Chalk Triangular or square pieces of clay chalk used tomark fabric before cutting or stitching. Comes in avariety of colors to suit different colors offabric. Wax chalk should be used carefully becauseif ironed, it will melt into the fabric. Varieties withdisappearing ink may leave a chemical residue inthe fabric.

Tape Measure A 1/2" or 5/8" wide plastic or fiberglass tape in60" to 120" lengths with measurements every1/8." Used to measure the body. May also comewith metric measurements on one side and imperialon the other.One variety of tape measure has a 2"section of cardboard attached for use in themeasuring of the crotch area.

Tape,Transparent

Adhesive tape used to hold paper pattern piecestogether. Opaque tape (also referred to as "Magic"tape by the Scotch brand) is best as it doesn't rippaper when repositioned and you can write on it.

Tracing Wheel,Needlepoint

An instrument with sharp, 1/4" long "teeth" on awheel attached to a handle. Makes pinholes. Used

to transfer pattern markings onto paper oroaktag. Also used in the creation of knock-offs.

Tracing Wheel,Plain Point

An instrument with serrated teeth on a wheelattached to a handle. Makes slottedperforations. Used with or without tracing papertotransfer marking from paper to paper or paper tofabric.

Tracing Wheel,Smooth

An instrument with a smooth wheel attached to ahandle. Used with or without tracing paper totransfer markings from paper to paper or paper tofabric. More often used on fine or lightweightfabrics.
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Triangle RulerA three-sided ruler, typically has two equal sideswhich meet at a 90 degree angle joined to a thirdside at a 45 degree angle. Used to identify true biaslines or to square a corner.

Tweezers Metal instrument for picking up small items. Alsoused for threading the serger.
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