shampoo how to formulate solutions. lesson topics shampoo market overview consumer problems...
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Shampoo
How to formulate solutions
Lesson Topics
• Shampoo Market Overview
• Consumer Problems
• Surfactant Science
• Formulating a shampoo
• Testing
Lesson Objectives
• Shampoo Market Overview– Introduce the shampoo market
• Consumer Problems– Explain the problems shampoo formulas are designed to fix
• Surfactant Science– Discuss surfactant properties– How they are relevant to cosmetics
• Formulating a solution– Dissect a shampoo formula– Explaining what ingredients are used and why
• Testing– Explain how to test a shampoo
Shampoo
Shampoos
• Solution cosmetic designed to clean hair and leave it a more manageable state
• Solutions - one of the simplest types of cosmetic formulas
Shampoo Market
• Overall Market– Hair care market estimated ~ $40 Billion
worldwide
– Amount of money spent in US on Shampoo/conditioner
• $2.26 billion (Food, Drug, Mass market)*
*Does not include Walmart
US Top Brands
BRAND
• Pantene – P&G• Head & Shoulders – P&G• Herbal Essences – P&G• Suave - Unilever• Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal• Tresemme – Alberto Culver• Matrix (Biolage) – L’Oreal• L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal• Dove - Unilever• Private Label• John Frieda - Kao
$ MARKET SHARE
• 16• 7.6• 7.5• 6.9• 6.6• 4.0• 3.9• 3.8• 3.3• 3.3• 3.2
*Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009
US Top Brands
BRAND
• Suave - Unilever• Pantene – P&G• VO5 – Alberto Culver• Herbal Essences – P&G• Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal• Head & Shoulders – P&G• L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal• Tresemme – Alberto Culver
Units sold (millions)
• 20.9• 19.5• 11.8• 11.5• 10.6• 7.5• 5.4• 5.2
*Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009
Shampoo Market
• Types of shampoo (marketing)– Normal– Extra body (volumizing, thickening, etc)– Moisturizing (smoothing, shine, restore)– Strengthening– Curl– 2 in 1– Color treated– Color Enhancing– Baby (tear-free)– Natural
Shampoo Market
• Specialty– Anti-dandruff– Anti-lice– Hair loss treatments
• Significantly Different– Powdered shampoos– No-rinse shampoo– Co-washing
Consumer Problems
• Clean hair / oil removal• Moisturize• Easier to comb• Prevent frizz• Shine• Volume• Medicated
– Anti-dandruff– Anti-lice– Hair loss
Addressing the problems
Problem• Clean hair / oil removal• Moisturize• Easier to comb• Prevent frizz• Shine• Volume• Medicated
– Anti-dandruff– Anti-lice– Hair loss
Technology• Surfactants
• Conditioning agents
– Anti-dandruff agents– Acaracides– Minoxidyl
Surfactant Science
Surfactants
• Defined– Molecules compatible with water & oil– Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
Surfactant Molecule
Hydrophilic = Lipophobic
Hydrophobic = Lipophilic
Surfactant in solution
• Reduces surface tension
• Helps disperse oil in water (or water in oil)
• Forms micelles to suspend particles
Surfactant
• Typical surfactant mixture– Surfactant is mixed with oil– Lipophilic tails orient with oil– Polar heads orient with water– Micelles are created
• Micelle formation
• Critical Micelle Concentration
Surfactant Solutions
• Depending on concentration different structures are formed
• Simple shampoos are basically surfactant solutions (no oils)
Surfactant Structures
Surfactant Functions
• Key in Shampoos– Cleaning / Detergency– Wetting– Dispersing– Foaming– Thickening– Conditioning
• Other functions– Emulsification– Solubilization– Penetration enhancement– Antimicrobial activity– Opacification
Detergency
• Two types of “dirt” in hair– Solid particulate– Oily deposits
• Solid particulates– From pollution, hair products– Adhere via Van der Waals forces– Anionics & non-ionics increase hydrophylicity of
surface
Detergency
• How surfactants remove liquids– Remove dirt & grease from surfaces– Mechanism
• Surfactant orients along oil/water interface• This lifts oil off surface suspending in solution• Rinse water removes the oil micelle
Wetting
• Breaks down the inherent surface tension of water
• Water with surfactant can spread better on the hair
Without Surfactant With Surfactant
Dispersing
• Particles are suspended in the shampoo / water solution
• They are removed upon rinsing
Foaming
• Air is dispersed in a continuous liquid medium
• Air bubbles are surrounded by thin layers of liquid films
• Foam doesn’t contribute much to removal of dirt– Consumers like foam but it doesn’t really
mean the product cleans better
Thickening
• Viscosity of surfactant solution can be affected by – Concentration of surfactant– Salt concentration– pH
Types of Surfactants
• Anionic – Negatively charged
• Amphoteric (Zwitterionic)– capable of both positive & negative charges
• Cationic– Positively charged
• Nonionic– No charge
Anionic Surfactants
• These are the primary shampoo surfactants
• Alkyl Sulfates– Examples - SLS
• Alkyl Ether Sulfates– Example – ALES
• Alpha – Olefin Sulfonates– Examples
Anionic Surfactants
• Other types– Sulfosuccinates– Alkylbenzene Sulfonates– Acyl Methyltaurates– Acyl Sarcosinates– Acyl Isethionates– Acyl Polypeptide Condensates– Monoglyceride Sulfates– Fatty Glyceryl Ether Sulfonates
Anionics
• Why use them?– Excellent detergency– Relatively inexpensive– Good foaming– Highly stable
• Drawbacks– Can be irritating– Drying to hair
Amphoteric Surfactants
• Can have a positive or negative charge depending on the pH of the solution
• Zwitterionic
• Types– Cocamidopropyl Betaine– Cocoamphopropionate– Sodium Lauraminopropionate
Amphoteric Surfactants
• Why use them?– Good Detergency– Less Irritating than anionics– Helps thicken system– Helps improve foam
• Drawbacks– More expensive– Do not foam well enough on their own
Non Ionic Surfactants
• Surfactant molecules with no charge
• Types– Fatty Alkanolamides
• Lauramide DEA• Cocamide DEA
– Amine Oxides• Lauramine Oxide• Stearamine Oxide
Non Ionic Surfactants
• Why use them?– Foam enhancer– Reduce irritation– Increase viscosity– Conditioning effect– Anti-static effect– Solubilize fragrances– Baby Shampoos
• PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate
• Drawbacks– Safety issues– More expensive– Do not foam well on their own
Cationics
• Positively charged surfactant molecules
• Types– Cetrimonium Chloride– Stearylalkonium Chloride
• Not used for shampoos – Don’t clean as well– Don’t rinse as well– Don’t foam as well
Shampoo Formulations
Shampoo Characteristics
• Aesthetics– Appearance
• Clear• Pearlized
– Thickness (Viscosity)
• Foam– Creamy, rich to thin & loose
• Harshness• Conditioning effects
Basic types of Shampoos
• Normal
• Volumizing
• Moisturizing
• 2 in 1
• Baby
• Natural
Shampoo Type Comparison
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10
Norm
al
Extra
Body
Mois
turiz
ing2
in 1
Baby
Natur
al
Ra
tin
g (
10
be
st)
Foam Quality
Conditioning
Harshness
Shampoo Performance
Shampoo Formula
• Water• Surfactant• Secondary Surfactant• Preservative• Conditioning agent• Color• Fragrance• Feature Ingredients• Specialty ingredients
Shampoo Formula
• Secondary Surfactant– Modify viscosity– Improve foam– Reduce irritation
• Aesthetic ingredients– Opacifying agent– Clarifying agents– Colorants
Shampoo Formula
• Conditioning agents– Silicones– Cationic polymers
• Preservatives• Fragrance• Feature Ingredients• Formula Adjusters
– Acid– Chelating agents
Cosmetic Formula sheet
Normal Shampoo Formula
Activity of Ingredients
• Many raw materials are sold diluted• % Solids = Raw material – water
• Eg. ALS sold as 28% solids
• 32% of the supplied raw material is only ~9% solid ALS
• % Active is usually synonymous with % Solids
Volumizing Shampoo Formula
Volumizing Shampoo
• Higher level of surfactant
• Volumizing polymer (optional)– Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
Moisturizing Shampoo Formula
Moisturizing Shampoo
• More gentle detergents
• Added conditioning ingredients– Polyquaternium-7– Dimethicone Copolyol
• Pearlized – (optional)– Glycol Stearate
2-in-1 Shampoo Formula
2 in 1 Shampoo
• Added conditioning ingredients– Dimethicone– Polyquaternium-10
• Pearlized– Glycol Stearate
• Stabilizing agent (optional)– Carbomer
Baby Shampoo Formula
Baby Shampoo
• More mild detergent system
• Compromise qualities for mildness– Foam– Detergency– Conditioning
• Minimize fragrance
Natural Shampoo Formula
Natural Shampoo
• Sulfate free detergent
• “Gentle” preservatives– No Parabens– No DMDM Hydantoin
• Natural extract ingredients
• Synthetic fragrance free?
Making the batch
Equipment
• Beakers• Mixers• Thermometer• Stand• Hot plate• Scale• Weigh boats• Plastic wrap
Formulating Equipment
Shampoo Batching tips
• Cover batch with plastic wrap
• Record time, temp, changes
• Pre-weigh ingredients
• Weigh container prior to making batch– Compensate for water loss
• Take specification readings at the end– Adjust as needed
–
Shampoo testing
• QA/QC Tests
• Performance Tests
Shampoo testing
• QA/QC Tests
• Specifications– Viscosity– pH– Appearance– Odor
Shampoo testing
• Use Tests– Try product yourself– Panel testing
Shampoo testing
• Tress testing– Combing– Feel / Softness– Shine
Shampoo testing
• Foam testing– Blender– Shake test
Shampoo testing
• Safety testing– Patch testing– Irritation tests
Shampoo Stability testing
Shampoo Summary• Shampoo Market Overview
– Big compared to other cosmetics
• Consumer Problems– Cleansing, conditioning primary problems
• Surfactant Science– Makes oil & water more compatible– Responsible for cleaning hair
• Formulating shampoos– 6 types of shampoos
• Testing– Use tests, lab tests, and QC tests
Shampoos