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TRANSCRIPT
Plan Your Trip 1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Damian Harper, Dai Min
Shanghai
ContentsContents
Welcome to Shànghǎi ..........................4
Shànghǎi’s Top 13 ...........6
What’s New .................... 15
Need to Know ................ 16
First Time Shànghǎi ...... 18
Getting Around ............. 20
Top Itineraries ...............22
If You Like .......................24
Month by Month ............27
With Kids ....................... 30
Like a Local .................... 31
For Free ..........................32
Eating ���������������������������33Drinking & Nightlife �� 43Entertainment ������������ 45Shopping ����������������������47
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Shànghăi 213
Survival Guide 251
Shànghăi Maps 294
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Shànghăi 50
Transport .....................252
Directory A–Z .............. 261
Language ..................... 274
Index ............................ 284
Shànghǎi Today ........... 214
History .......................... 216
Arts .............................. 230
Architecture in Shànghǎi ................. 239
Religion & Belief ......... 248
Neighbourhoods at a Glance �����������������������52The Bund & People’s Square ............54
Old Town ........................78
French Concession .......93
Jìng’ān ..........................126
Pǔdōng ......................... 143
Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi ...........156
Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi ...........164
West Shànghǎi .............171
Day Trips from Shànghǎi �������������������� 178
Sleeping ���������������������199
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Jìng'ān
Hóngkǒu &North Shànghǎi
Xújiāhuì &South Shànghǎi
FrenchConcession
Old Town
West Shànghǎi
Pǔdōng
The Bund &People'sSquare
p54
p93
p171
p164
p78
p126
p156
p143
(left) Noodles Casual street dining in Shànghǎi
(above) Chinese New Year Celebrations in the Yùyuán Gardens shop-ping area (p80)
(right) Traditional Chinese Door
Top ItinerariesDay OneThe Bund & People’s Square (p54)
M Follow the sweep of architectural pomp along the Bund and savour
the art deco grandeur of the Fairmont Peace Hotel, before walking along the riverside promenade to view the Pǔdōng skyline across the river. Art lovers can swoop upon the Rockbund Art Museum, while architecture fans enjoy the highlights of Yuanmingyuan Road. Head west along East Nanjing Rd past shoppers to People’s Square.
The Bund & People’s Square (p54)
R Immerse yourself in the collection of the Shànghǎi Museum before
choosing between the Shànghǎi Urban Planning Exhibition Hall or discovering a pocket of greenery in People’s Park. For views, shoot up in the lift to the lobby of the JW Marriott on the 38th floor of Tomorrow Square.
Pǔdōng (p143)
N Hop on the metro (or a sightseeing bus) from People’s Sq to Lùjiāzuǐ to
wander round the walkway in front of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Select between the observation towers of the Shànghǎi Tower, Jinmao Tower and the Shànghǎi World Financial Center, or settle for even-ing cocktails at Flair.
Day TwoFrench Concession (p93)
M View the architecture and bou-tiques of Xīntiāndì and explore the
Shíkùmén Open House Museum for a lowdown on shíkùmén (stone-gate house) ar-chitecture before tracking down St Nicho-las Church, the whimsical Moller House or taking a seat to watch locals relaxing in French-designed Fùxīng Park.
French Concession (p93)
R Admire the dazzling glass creations at the Liúli China Museum before
disappearing among Tiánzǐfáng’s warren of lanes. Boutique window-shop around Tiánzǐfáng; take your hat off to the collec-tion in the Propaganda Poster Art Cen-tre; and hunt down contemporary art at James Cohan, Art Labor and Space.
The Bund & People’s Square (p54)
N Zip up the day in style by sipping cocktails and dining on the Bund,
but most of all enjoy the mind-altering neon views. Select from a long list: the Glamour Bar, New Heights, the Long Bar, Bar Rouge or Captain’s Bar – or don your best togs for views, booze and moves at M1NT. Die-hard traditionalists can lend an ear to the jazz band in the Fairmont Peace Hotel Jazz Bar.
Dinner Bāguó Bùyī (p153): top-notch Sìchuān classics in a smart setting.
Lunch Lost Heaven (p71): all the flavours of far-off Yúnnán province.
Dinner Jian Guo 328 (p106): Home-style Shànghǎi cooking on a fab menu.
Lunch Din Tai Fung (p105): classic, moreish Shànghǎi dumplings.
22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Day ThreeOld Town (p78)
M Reach the Old Town’s Yùyuán Gardens early in the day, before
the crowds arrive. Sift through the handi-crafts on sale in the Yùyuán Bazaar before tracking down bargain collectables along Old Street and Dongtai Road An-tique Market. Head east past Dǒngjiādù Cathedral to the Cool Docks for its fetching blend of shíkùmén, riverside warehouse architecture and views.
Jìng’ān (p126)
R Weave some Buddhist mystery into your afternoon at the Jade Bud-
dha Temple before sprinkling contem-porary art into the mix at the fascinating galleries of M50. Consider a cruise along Sūzhōu Creek or explore the Jìng’ān Temple before seeking out the lǐlòng lanes
of the Bubbling Well Road Apartments and shopping along West Nanjing Rd.
French Concession (p93)
N Round off your day in some of Shànghǎi’s best bars, all handily
located in the French Concession: chill out at Bell Bar; seek out specialist beers at Kaībā or Boxing Cat Brewery; sink a
Day FourXújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi (p164)
M Spend the morning admiring the former Jesuit sights of Xújiāhuì,
in particular the St Ignatius Cathedral and the Tousewe Museum. Pay your re-spects to the Buddhist Lónghuá Temple & Pagoda; the green-fingered can explore the foliage of the Shànghǎi Botanical Gardens.
Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi (p156)
R Pay a visit to the Ohel Moishe Synagogue and the surrounding
former Jewish neighbourhood; walk up Duolun Road Cultural Street; track down some of the neighbourhood’s best architecture and relax in Lu Xun Park. In the late afternoon, head back south to
the North Bund area of Hóngkǒu, near the Bund.
Pǔdōng (p143)
N Get haggling at the AP Xīnyáng Fashion & Gifts Market before
closing time, or get a handle on local his-tory at the Shànghǎi History Museum. Follow up with an evening walk along the Riverside Promenade, gazing over to the Bund. For fine Pǔdōng views, jump on a
Dinner Fu 1088 (p138): fine Shànghǎi cuisine in dapper villa surrounds.
Lunch Nánxiáng Steamed Bun Restau-rant (p89): celebrated dumplings.
Dinner Guǒyúan (p161): superduper spice-infused dishes from Húnán.
Lunch Kota’s Kitchen (p169): superb Japanese dishes meets the Beatles.
23PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
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Lu Xun Park (p160)
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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/MTR/MRT station
Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
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Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
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Sleeping
Eating
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Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Shànghǎi Maps
294 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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æ Top Sights (p56) 23 Food Republic............................................. C5 1 Shànghǎi Museum......................................C6 24 Huanghe Road Food Street ...................... A4 2 The Bund......................................................G3 Jean Georges .....................................(see 21) 25 Jiājiā Soup Dumplings ............................... A4 æ Sights (p65) 26 Kebabs on the Grille................................... A6 3 Bund History Museum ............................... G1 Lobby, Peninsula .............................. (see 86) 4 Bund Sightseeing Tunnel...........................G2 27 Lost Heaven ................................................G5 5 Custom House ............................................G3 28 M on the Bund.............................................G4 6 East Nanjing Road ......................................E3 Mercato ..............................................(see 21) 7 Former British Consulate ...........................F1 29 Mr & Mrs Bund............................................G3 8 Great World .................................................D6 Nánxiáng Steamed Bun 9 Hongkong & Shanghai Bank Restaurant...................................... (see 64) Building .................................................... G4 30 Nánxiáng Steamed Bun 10 Huángpǔ Park..............................................G2 Restaurant................................................ C5 11 island6......................................................... G4 31 Shànghǎi Grandmother.............................G4 12 Jardine Matheson.......................................G2 32 Shěnjiāmén Lánsǎo Hǎixiān 13 Madame Tussauds .....................................B4 Miànguǎn.................................................. E5 14 Meteorological Signal 33 Shook!..........................................................G3 Tower.........................................................G5 34 South Memory............................................ E3 Monument to the 35 Spicy Joint................................................... D7 People's Heroes............................... (see 3) 36 Táishèngyuán Restaurant......................... A4 15 Park Hotel ....................................................A4 37 Tock's .......................................................... F4 16 Peace Gallery...............................................G3 38 Wagas .......................................................... E3 17 People's Park...............................................B5 39 Wáng Bǎohé Jiǔjiā...................................... D5 18 Rockbund Art Museum..............................F2 40 Wǔ Fāng Zhāi ..............................................D6 Shanghai Gallery of Art .....................(see 21) 41 Xiǎo Jīn Líng ................................................D6 19 Shànghǎi Museum of 42 Yang's Fry Dumplings................................ A4 Contemporary Art 43 Yunnan Road Food Street.........................D6 (MOCA Shànghǎi)....................................B5 44 Yúxìn Chuāncài........................................... E4 20 Shànghǎi Urban Planning
Exhibition Hall...........................................C5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p74) 21 Three on the Bund..................................... G4 45 Bar Rouge....................................................G3 Tomorrow Square ............................ (see 77) 46 Barbarossa.................................................. B5 47 Captain's Bar ..............................................G4 ú Eating (p69) Glamour Bar...................................... (see 28) Ajisen..................................................(see 34) Long Bar ............................................ (see 89) 22 Cafe at 1........................................................ F2 48 M1NT ............................................................ E4 Charme...............................................(see 34) 49 Muse..............................................................F2
298
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uArE New Heights .......................................(see 21) 76 Jinjiang Inn ..................................................C4 50 Sir Elly's Terrace .........................................G2 77 JW Marriott Tomorrow Square ............... A5 78 Les Suites Orient........................................H5 ý Entertainment (p75) 79 Marvel Hotel................................................ D7 Fairmont Peace Hotel Jazz Bar .......(see 71) 80 Mingtown E-Tour Youth Hostel................ A6 51 House of Blues & Jazz............................... G4 81 Mingtown Hiker Youth Hostel....................F2 52 Peace Cinema .............................................C5 82 Mingtown Nanjing Road Youth Hostel..... D3 53 Shànghǎi Concert Hall ...............................C7 83 Motel 168..................................................... D7 54 Shànghǎi Grand Theatre ...........................B6 84 Motel 268 .....................................................F2 55 Yìfū Theatre .................................................C5 85 Pacific Hotel ................................................B4 Park Hotel........................................... (see 15) þ Shopping (p76) 86 Peninsula Hotel...........................................G2 56 Annabel Lee................................................ G4 87 Phoenix ........................................................D6 57 Apple Store..................................................E3 88 Sofitel Hyland Hotel ...................................D4 Blue Shànghǎi White ........................(see 67) 89 Waldorf Astoria...........................................G4 58 Duǒyúnxuān Art Shop................................E3 90 Westin Shanghai..........................................F5 59 Foreign Languages Bookstore..................E4 91 Yangtze Boutique Shanghai .....................C4 60 Raffles City...................................................C5
61 Shànghǎi Book Traders Used Books .......E4 ï Information (p261) 62 Shànghǎi Museum Art Store.....................B6 92 Bank of China..............................................G2 63 Shànghǎi No 1 Department Store.............B4 Goethe Institute................................ (see 48) 64 Shànghǎi No 1 Food Store.........................C4 93 Shànghǎi No 1 Pharmacy ..........................C4 65 Shiatzy Chen .............................................. G4 94 Tourist Information & Service Centre .....D4 66 Silk King........................................................ F3 95 Tourist Information & Service Centre.....G3 67 Sūzhōu Cobblers ....................................... G4 96 Watson's......................................................C4
Ø Sports & Activities (p77) ï Transport (p252) 68 Huángpǔ River Cruise ................................H5 97 Bund Train Ticket Office ............................F2 98 Bus 925 to Hóngqiáo International ÿ Sleeping (p202) Airport Terminal 1.................................... C7 69 Blue Mountain Bund...................................D2 99 Jinling Road Ferry.......................................H5 Captain Hostel................................... (see 47) 100 Night Bus 316 to Hóngqiáo 70 Central Hotel Shanghai..............................D4 International Airport ...............................G5 71 Fairmont Peace Hotel ................................G2 Night Bus 320 to Hóngqiáo 72 Fish Inn Bund...............................................E2 International Airport ................... (see 100) 73 Grand Central Hotel Shanghai..................D4 101 Pu'an Rd Bus Station................................. C7 74 Home Inn......................................................F4
75 Jinjiang Inn...................................................E5
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Wenmiao Rd
Zhizaoju Rd
Hubin Rd
E Ninghai Rd
Dalin Rd
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Jingxiu Rd
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Ji'an Rd
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æ Top Sights (p80) 1 Yùyuán Gardens & Bazaar...........................B6
æ Sights (p82) 2 Báiyún Temple .............................................. A2 3 Chénxiānggé Nunnery..................................A6 4 Confucian Temple ........................................B4 5 Cool Docks..................................................... F4 6 Dàjìng Pavilion............................................... A2 7 Dǒngjiādù Cathedral .....................................F5 8 Fǎzàngjiǎng Temple ..................................... A4 9 Flower, Bird, Fish & Insect Market ............. A3 10 Peach Garden Mosque.................................C3 11 Sunny Beach ................................................. F3 12 Temple of the Town God.............................. B7
ú Eating (p84) Char ...................................................... (see 30) 13 Dragon Gate Mall .......................................... B7 14 El Willy .............................................................C1 15 Element Fresh ............................................... A3 16 Kebabs on the Grille ..................................... F4 17 Nánxiáng Steamed Bun Restaurant ..........B6 18 Quánmiànshèng Gàiniàn Miànguǎn ........... B5 19 Sōngyuèlóu.................................................... B6 Table No 1 by Jason Atherton ............(see 31) 20 Wúyuè Rénjiā................................................. B6
û Drinking & Nightlife (p90) Char Bar............................................... (see 30) 21 Húxīntíng Teahouse .....................................B6 22 Mid-Lake Pavilion Teahouse .......................B6 23 Old Shanghai Teahouse............................... A7 Yawaragi ...............................................(see 14)
þ Shopping (p91) 24 Dongtai Road Antique Market..................... A3 25 Fúyòu Antique Market.................................. A7 26 Old Street....................................................... A7 27 Shíliùpù Fabric Market.................................D2 28 South Bund Fabric Market .......................... D5 29 Tóng Hán Chūn Traditional Medicine Store ...........................................B6
ÿ Sleeping (p209) 30 Hotel Indigo ................................................... E2 31 Waterhouse at South Bund......................... F3
ï Information (p261) 32 Australian Chamber of Commerce ............ A3 33 Body and Soul TCM Clinic ........................... B5 34 Tourist Information & Service Centre.......................................................... B6
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Nanchang Rd
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Zizhong RdHubin Rd
Dongtai Rd
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Danshui Rd
Middle Jinling Rd
Middle Huaihai Rd
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æ Top Sights (p95) 31 Origin............................................................ E6 1 Tiánzǐfáng ....................................................E6 Shànghǎi Min .....................................(see 21) 2 Xīntiāndì .......................................................G2 32 Southern Barbarian ................................... B2 33 Spicy Joint................................................... A4 æ Sights (p97) 34 T8..................................................................G2 3 Beaugeste....................................................E6 35 Vegetarian Lifestyle ....................................G1 4 Christ the King Church............................... B1 36 Wèixiāng Zhāi.............................................. E2 5 Cité Bourgogne ...........................................C7 37 Yè Shànghǎi ................................................G2 6 Deke Erh Art Centre ...................................E6
7 Fùxīng Park..................................................E3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p111) 8 Liúli China Museum....................................E6 38 Bell Bar......................................................... E6 9 Moller House ............................................... B1 39 Boxing Cat Brewery ................................... E4 10 Shíkùmén Open House Museum..............G2 40 Burdigala 2 .................................................. C7 11 Site of the 1st National Congress of 41 Café des Stagiaires .................................... B5 the CCP .....................................................G2 42 Citizen Café................................................. B2 12 St Nicholas Church.....................................D3 43 Dean's Bottle Shop ....................................C6 13 Sun Yatsen's Former Residence ..............E4 44 Dean's Bottle Shop .................................... B5 14 Zhou Enlai's Former Residence................E4 Dr Bar................................................. (see 34) 45 Geisha .......................................................... C5 ú Eating (p101) 46 Kāibā ............................................................ E6 15 Ā Dà Cóngyóubǐng......................................C4 47 Lòushì...........................................................C3 16 Bankura........................................................C2 48 TMSK ...........................................................G2 17 Cha's.............................................................D3 49 Vienna Café.................................................C6 Crystal Jade .......................................(see 21) 50 YY's...............................................................C3 18 Dà Máo Cóngyóubǐng................................ G4
19 Dī Shuǐ Dòng................................................C2 ý Entertainment (p118) 20 Diǎn Shí Zhāi Xiǎo Yàn ...............................A6 51 Cathay Theatre...........................................C3 21 Din Tai Fung.................................................G3 52 MAO Livehouse........................................... F6 22 ElEfante........................................................A3 53 Shanghai Culture Square.......................... C5 23 Fēngyù Shēngjiān .......................................D3 UME International Cineplex.............(see 21) 24 Food Fusion .................................................B3
25 Funk a Deli ...................................................B5 þ Shopping (p118) Hǎijīnzī................................................(see 42) 54 100 Change & Insect..................................C4 26 Jian Guo 328................................................B7 55 100 Change & Insect.................................. A3 27 Kabb .............................................................G2 56 Annabel Lee ................................................G2 28 Kommune ....................................................E6 57 Apple Store ..................................................G1 29 Lánxīn Cāntīng ............................................B2 58 Chouchou Chic ........................................... E6 30 Madison........................................................A4 59 Chouchou Chic ........................................... B2
304
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EAst 60 Eblis Hungi...................................................D2 Xīntiāndì................................................(see 2) Esydragon...........................................(see 31) 78 Xīntiāndì Style.............................................G3 Even Penniless ..................................(see 60) 79 Yě Huǒ Hùwài Yòngpǐn Diàn .....................D2 61 Fó Guāng......................................................C7 80 Yúnwúxīn ..................................................... E3 62 Garden Books..............................................B2 81 Zhēnchálín Tea ........................................... E6 Gift Zen...............................................(see 78)
Happy Clay.........................................(see 22) Ø Sports & Activities (p125) Harvest................................................. (see 3) 82 Centre of Jewish Studies Shànghǎi......... E2 Heirloom ............................................ (see 55) 83 Double Rainbow Massage House.............C6 63 Huāyàng Niánhuá .......................................C3 84 Green Massage...........................................G2 64 Huìfēng Tea Shop .......................................C4 85 Lóngwǔ Kung Fu Center.............................C1 65 IAPM Mall .....................................................B4 Wǔyì Chinese Kungfu Centre.............(see 3) Joma................................................... (see 77)
66 La Formaggeria...........................................C5 ÿ Sleeping (p205) La Vie..................................................(see 78) 86 88 Xīntiāndì .................................................G3 La Vie..................................................(see 28) 87 Andaz ...........................................................G2 La Vie..................................................(see 79) 88 Hàntíng Hotel..............................................C6 67 Link Shanghai..............................................E6 89 Héngshān Moller Villa .................................B1 Liúli China Museum Shop.................. (see 8) 90 InterContinental Shanghai Ruijin 68 Lomography ................................................C2 Hotel..........................................................D4 69 OOAK Concept Boutique...........................A7 91 Langham Xīntiāndì .....................................G2 70 Parsons Music.............................................A4 92 Motel 268 .................................................... F6 71 PCS (Pop Classic Sneakers).....................E3
Pilingpalang ..........................................(see 1) ï Information (p261) Pottery Workshop............................. (see 77) 93 Arrail Dental ................................................G2 72 Shànghǎi 1936.............................................E6 China Post......................................... (see 96) Shànghǎi 1936 Men's Store .............. (see 3) 94 European Union Chamber of 73 Shanghai Code............................................E6 Commerce in China .................................G1 74 Shànghǎi Museum Shop............................G2 95 Ruìjīn Hospital............................................. E5 Shanghai Tang ..................................(see 48) 96 Shanghai Information Centre for Shànghǎi Trio .................................... (see 78) International Visitors ..............................G2 75 Simply Life ...................................................G3 97 Shànghǎi Qìgōng Institute.........................D3 76 Thing.............................................................D2 98 Shǔguāng Hospital......................................H1 Tiánzǐfáng .............................................(see 1) 99 Tourist Information & Service Unique Hill Gallery ............................(see 28) Centre ....................................................... E2 77 Urban Tribe..................................................E6 100 Watson's......................................................C3 Xi Su....................................................(see 78)
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Taiyuan Rd
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Yongjia Rd
Julu Rd
Donghu Rd
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Qingzhen Rd
Yixueyuan Rd
S M
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Fumin Rd
Yueyang Rd
Yanqing Rd
Xinle Rd
N Xiangyang Rd
Yongjia Rd
Dam
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S X
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S W
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W Jianguo Rd
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Hengshan Rd
Changshu Rd
Jiashan Rd
Zhaojiabang Rd
SouthShaanxi Rd
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æ Sights (p100) 30 Organic Kitchen ............D4 68 Culture Matters............. E5 Art Labor.............. (see 56) 31 Pho Real ..........................F2 69 Factory Five ...................B4 1 Ba Jin's Former 32 Pho Real ......................... E4 70 Kava Kava ....................... F1 Residence ...................C4 33 Pǐnchuān ........................ E4 71 Lolo Love Vintage .........D4 2 Chinese Printed Blue 34 Shànghǎi Min..................F2 72 Madame Mao's Nankeen 35 Shintori Null II ................. F1 Dowry ...........................F2 Exhibition Hall..............F2 36 Sìchuān Citizen .............G2 73 Mayumi Sato .................D3 3 Community Church.......E5 37 Simply Thai .....................F5 74 NuoMi ..............................F2 4 James Cohan..................F6 38 South Beauty................. E4 75 Paramita......................... E2 Leo Gallery............ (see 15) Vedas.................... (see 42) 76 Pilingpalang ...................D3 5 Propaganda Poster 39 Wagas.............................G2 77 Pottery Workshop..........F2 Art Centre ................... C3 40 Whisk Cafe......................F3 Propaganda 6 Russian Orthodox 41 Xian Yue Hien ................C4 Poster Art Mission Church .......... G2 42 Xībó................................. E2 Centre...................(see 5) 7 Shànghǎi Arts & 43 Zen Lifestore & Cafe......F5 78 Simply Life ......................F5 Crafts Museum ..........G4 79 Source ............................G2 8 Song Qingling's û Drinking & Nightlife (p115) 80 Spoiled Brat....................F3 Former 44 390 Bar .......................... A6 81 Urban Tribe....................D4 Residence ...................C6 45 Abbey Road ....................F5 82 XinleLu.com................... E3 9 Wukang Road Tourist Apartment............ (see 54) Yányè Míngchá.....(see 77) Information 46 Beaver .............................F5
Centre.......................... C5 47 Boxing Cat Brewery......D4 Ø Sports & Activities (p125) 48 Camel ............................. F4 83 Dragonfly.........................F2 ú Eating (p106) 49 Constellation .................G2 Subconscious Azul ........................ (see 15) 50 Cotton's.......................... E6 Day Spa ............. (see 52) 10 Baker & Spice................ D3 51 Dada................................ A5
11 Bǎoluó Jiǔlóu ..................F2 52 Dr Wine............................ F1 ÿ Sleeping (p205) 12 Coconut Paradise .......... F1 53 Eddy's Bar......................C6 84 Āntíng Villa Hotel .......... E6 Coffee Tree........... (see 15) 54 El Cóctel .........................D4 85 Dōnghú Hotel..................F2 13 Da Marco........................ B2 55 Enoterra ......................... E3 86 Héngshān Picardie Dī Shuǐ Dòng.........(see 37) Glo Lounge............(see 18) Hotel ............................ D7 14 Element Fresh ...............G2 56 Lola ..................................F5 87 Hilton Hotel.....................E1 Farine..................... (see 15) People 7................ (see 35) 88 Kevin's Old House......... D2 15 Ferguson Lane............... C5 57 Sasha's ............................F5 89 Le Sun Chine..................B4 Fortune Cookie.... (see 42) 58 Shànghǎi Brewery ........ E5 90 Magnolia Bed & 16 Fu 1039........................... A2 59 Shànghǎi Studio............C6 Breakfast......................F2 17 Garlic .............................. E6 Shelter.................. (see 54) 91 Quintet............................ E2 18 Glo London .....................E5 60 Time Passage................ B3 92 Yuèyáng Hotel ................F5 19 Grape Restaurant ......... G2
20 Green & Safe ..................F4 ý Entertainment (p118) ï Information (p261) 21 Gǔyì Húnán 61 Cotton Club.................... E4 93 British Council............... E2 Restaurant................... F1 62 JZ Club ...........................D4 94 German Consulate........D4 Haiku..................... (see 22) 63 Shànghǎi 95 New Zealand 22 Jesse............................... E4 Conservatory of Consulate.................... E2 23 Jesse...............................C6 Music ...........................G3 96 US Consulate................. E4 Kagen.................... (see 22) 64 Shànghǎi Gǔqín
24 La Crêperie .....................F4 Cultural ï Transport (p252) 25 Lè Shēng ........................ C3 Foundation..................C6 97 French Concession 26 Lost Heaven...................C4 West Train 27 Mia's Yúnnán þ Shopping (p123) Ticket Office ............... E4 Kitchen ........................ E3 65 Avocado Lady................ E3
28 Nepali Kitchen................F2 66 Ba Yan Ka La.................. C3
29 Noodle Bull .....................F2 67 Brocade Country............G1
308
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Anyuan Rd
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S Suzhou Rd
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æ Top Sights (p128) þ Shopping (p140) 1 Jade Buddha Temple .................................B3 Art Deco................................................(see 2) 2 M50...............................................................C2 Espace Pébéo ......................................(see 2)
æ Sights (p130) Ø Sports & Activities (p142) island6.................................................. (see 2) Dark Room ...........................................(see 2) 3 m97...............................................................B2 9 Oz Body Fit ..................................................C3 OFoto.................................................... (see 2) 10 Sūzhōu Creek Boat Tours......................... A2 Other Gallery ....................................... (see 2)
4 ShanghART..................................................C2 ï Transport (p252) 11 Advance Train Ticket Booking Office ...... D2 ú Eating (p131) 12 Bus 941 to Hóngqiáo International 5 Commune Social ........................................C4 Airport.......................................................C2 6 Jade Buddha Temple Vegetarian 13 Bus to Pǔdōng International Airport ....... D2 Restaurant................................................B3 14 Hengfeng Rd Train Ticket Office...............C1 15 Shànghǎi Long-Distance Bus û Drinking & Nightlife (p139) Station .......................................................C1 7 B&C...............................................................B4 16 Shànghǎi Railway Station .........................D2 8 Bandu Cabin................................................C2 17 Taxi Rank.....................................................C2 18 Train Ticket Office...................................... C2
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Wanhangdu Rd
Fumin Rd
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Changde Rd
Xikang Rd
Yugucun
Changping Rd
Tongren Rd
W Wuding Rd
S Wuning Rd
Yanping Rd Jiaozhou Rd
Wuding Rd
Xinzha Rd
Wanhangdu Rd
Zhenning R
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W Nanjin
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Kangding Rd
W Beijing Rd
Middle Yan'an Rd
Jing'anTemple
Changping Rd
ShànghǎiChildren'sHospital27
36
79
14
10
12
231
41
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p306
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æ Sights (p130) 11 Gōngdélín.......................H2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p139) 1 Former Residence of 12 Gǔyì Húnán 24 Big Bamboo ................... E2 Mao Zedong................ G3 Restaurant .................. D3 25 Café 85°C....................... E2 2 Jìng'ān Temple.............. C4 13 Hǎi Dǐ Lāo....................... E2 26 Helen's............................G3 3 Shànghǎi Children's 14 Jen Dow Vegetarian 27 I Love Shànghǎi............. C2 Palace.......................... C4 Restaurant .................. C3 28 Kāibā................................E1 4 Shànghǎi Exhibition 15 Lillian Bakery ................. G2 29 Malone's......................... D3 Centre.......................... E3 16 Lynn ................................ E2 30 Spot ................................D3 5 Zhāng Garden................ G2 17 Méilóngzhèn Jiǔjiā .........F2
Nánxiáng ý Entertainment (p140) ú Eating (p131) Steamed Bun 31 Paramount Ballroom.... C3 Ā Bǎo .................... (see 33) Restaurant ........ (see 23) 32 Shànghǎi Centre 6 Awfully Chocolate......... G2 Pǐnchuān .............. (see 35) Theatre........................ E3 Baker & Spice...... (see 32) Pizza Express ...... (see 32) Studio City ........... (see 52) 7 Bali Laguna .................... D4 18 Sumerian........................ E2
City Shop.............. (see 32) 19 Vegetarian Lifestyle.......F2 þ Shopping (p140) Crystal Jade......... (see 52) 20 Wagas..............................F2 Amy Lin's Pearls.. (see 33) 8 Cyclo................................ E1 21 Wujiang Road Food 33 Han City Fashion & Din Tai Fung......... (see 32) Street........................... G2 Accessories Element Fresh ..... (see 32) 22 Yàkèxī ..............................D1 Plaza ............................H2 9 Fu 1088........................... A4 23 Yang's Fry 34 Jǐngdézhèn Porcelain 10 Golden Pot ..................... C3 Dumplings....................F2 Artware.........................F3
310
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Jinxian Rd
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Weihai Rd
Jiangning Rd
Dagu Rd
Changle Rd
Fengxian Rd
Xinzha Rd
Nanyang Rd
Jiangyin Rd
Middle Yan'an Rd
Julu Rd
Julu Rd
S S
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W Beijing Rd
Qinghai Rd
S Chengdu Rd
Shimen N
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N Shaanxi Rd
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43 Púlì ..................................D4 47 Shànghǎi Cultural ï Transport (p252) 44 Urbn................................ C2 Information & 53 Hóngqiáo Airport Booking Centre .......... F2 City Terminal ..............D3 ï Information (p261) 48 Thai Consulate ..............G3 54 Jìng'ān Train Ticket American 49 Tourist Information Office ...........................C3 Chamber of & Service 55 Train Ticket Office.........C3 Commerce ........ (see 32) Centre..........................C3
311
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E Lujiazui Rd
Pudong Ave
S Pudong Rd
Century Ave
Zhangyang Rd
E Zhongshan No 2 Rd
Xinjian Rd
Tunnel
Shangcheng Rd
H uangpu Rd
Jimo Rd
Do
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Zhoujin Rd
Pucheng Rd
Qixia Rd
Anren
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Yangshuo Rd
Riverside Ave
Yong'an Rd
Wutong Rd
Changyi Rd
Dongchang RdLuji a zui Ring Rd
Huayuanshiqiao RdLujiazui Ring Rd
N N
anquan Rd
Middle Yincheng Rd
Daming Rd
Dongyuan Rd
Riverside Ave
Fucheng Rd
Mingzhuta Rd
Zhonghua Rd
S Pǔdōng Rd
Shangcheng Rd
Dongchang Rd
Lujiazui
Pudong Avenue
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æ Top Sights (p145) On 56 ...................... (see 4) ÿ Sleeping (p210) 1 Shànghǎi Tower ............ B3 Ramen Play...........(see 14) 16 Beehome Hostel............C3 2 Shànghǎi World South Beauty........(see 14) Grand Hyatt ........... (see 4) Financial Center......... C3 Sproutworks.........(see 14) 17 Mandarin Oriental 10 Yang's Fry Dumplings... B2 Pudong .........................C1 æ Sights (p147) Yi Cafe ...................(see 19) 18 Park Hyatt ......................C3 3 Bund Sightseeing 19 Pudong Shangri-La.......B3 Tunnel.......................... A2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p154) 20 Ritz-Carlton 4 Jīnmào Tower................ B3 100 Century Shanghai 5 Oriental Pearl TV Avenue................(see 18) Pudong ........................B2 Tower........................... B2 11 Camel .............................D4
6 Riverside Promenade... A2 Cloud 9 ................... (see 4) ï Information (p261) Shànghǎi History Flair ....................... (see 20) 21 Tourist Information & Museum ...............(see 5) Service Centre............B2 7 Shànghǎi Ocean þ Shopping (p155) Tourist Aquarium .................... B2 12 City Shop........................B3 Information & 8 Wú Chāngshuò 13 IFC Mall...........................B2 Service Centre...(see 14) Memorial Hall ............. C2 Shanghai Tang .....(see 19)
14 Superbrand Mall ...........B2 ï Transport (p252) ú Eating (p151) 22 Ferry Dock......................B3 Food Opera ...........(see 14) Ø Sports & Activities 23 Ferry Dock.......................B1 9 Kitchen Salvatore 15 Pearl Dock...................... A2 24 Lùjiāzuǐ Train Ticket Cuomo......................... A2 Office ...........................B2
312
CENtury AvEN
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Qindian St
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Huamu Rd
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Beiyangjing Rd
Minsheng Rd
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Lancun Rd
Science &Technology
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4 Hǎi Dǐ Lāo.....................................................A2 ÿ Sleeping (p211) Jumeirah û Drinking & Nightlife (p154) Himalayas Hotel ...............................(see 2) 5 Brew..............................................................D4
313
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319
Damian HarperCoordinating Author, Old Town, Pǔdōng, Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi, Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi, Day Trips from Shànghǎi After graduating with a degree in modern and classical Chinese from London’s School of Oriental and African Studies, guidebook writer Damian has lived and worked in Shànghǎi, Běijīng and Hong Kong, travelling the highways and byroads of China. Fascinat-ed by China’s coming of age, relishing Shànghǎi’s finest xiǎolóngbāo dumplings
and shíkùmén buildings, and while hounded by deadlines, Damian has worked on multiple edi-tions of Shanghai. For this edition, Damian also wrote Need to Know, Top Itineraries, Sleeping, the Understand Shànghǎi section, and the Transport and Directory chapters.
Christopher PittsThe Bund & People’s Square, French Concession, Jìng’ān, West Shànghǎi Chris started his university years studying classical Chinese poetry before a week in 1990s Shànghǎi (en route to school in Kūnmíng) abruptly changed his focus to the idiosyncrasies of modern China. Several years in Asia memorising Chinese characters got him hooked, and he returns whenever he can to im-
merse himself in what is surely one of the world’s most fascinating languages. He’s written for Lonely Planet’s Shanghai since 2005 and also contributes to the Chi-na guide. Visit him online at www.christopherpitts.net. For this edition, Christopher also wrote Welcome to Shànghǎi, What’s New, If You Like, Month by Month, With Kids, Like a Local, For Free, Neigh-bourhoods at a Glance, the Eating, Drinking & Nighlife, Entertainment and Shopping overviews and Sleeping.
Read more about Damian at: lonelyplanet.com/members/damianharper
Read more about Chris at: lonelyplanet.com/members/christopherpitts
Our Writers
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Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9836th edition – April 2013ISBN 978 1 74179 901 9© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
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