VOLUME 1 ISSUE #4

SURVIVOR LOGSPOT-AND-STALK

TACTICS FOR BIG BRUINS

Field to Fork:Spring Black Bear

SHAPE YOUR OWN BLADE

Railroad Spike Knife

A FIRST-TIME BUYER’S GUIDE

How to Choose theRight Gasmask

DIY Focus• CROWBAR GRAPPLING HOOK

• HERBAL SLEEP AID

• CHILI JAR EGGS BATTLE OF THE BELTS

GearReview

CONTENTSFEATURES/COVER STORIESSO MUCH TO READ! HERE’S WHERE YOU START...

VOLUME 1/ISSUE 4

CHOOSING A GAS MASKFirst-Time Buyer’s Guide

08A Spicy Trailhead TreatCHILI JAR EGGS

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SURVIVOR LOG DirectorCharlie Deleon Guerrero

EditorDante Zuniga-West

DesignersPaul John Bongares

Metodi Kolev

ContributorsKate Stover

A.M.B. SteventonBear Canelo

Bronwyn DeanJosh Lutje

Nadia Lutje-TortHunt Haldeman

Address1863 Pioneer Pkwy E Ste 222

Springfield, OR 97477

Websitewww.PrimitiveSurvivors.com

DIY HERBAL SLEEP TINCTUREHerbal Sleep Aid

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Shape Your Own BladeDIY RAILROAD SPIKE KNIFE

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FIELD TO FORK: SPRINGBLACK BEAR HARVESTSpot-And-Stalk Tactics For West Coast Bruins

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FIRE PISTONPrimitive Fire Starting

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Easy Access With Everyday Tools

DIY CROWBARGRAPPLING HOOK

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Reinforced Instructor Vs The PeacekeeperBATTLE OF THE BELTS

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Chili Jar EggsBy Kate Stover

Materials:Eggs • Soy Sauce • Brown Sugar • Black Pepper • Whole Bay Leaves • Whole Cloves • Hot Sauce • Ice

Note: You will also need a pot and a quart-sized Mason Jar.

When you’re spending the day on a fishing boat, in a tree-stand or sitting around a campfire,

having protein-rich snacks allows you more recreation time and makes everything far

more enjoyable. Chili jar eggs are great to take along on any outdoor adventure. They can be easily stored in a Tupperware container or a jar, to be eaten with very little prep while you are in the field.

Directions1. Start by hard-boiling the eggs in the pot. Keep them in the boiling water for 5-7 minutes, then remove them from the heat.

2. Put the eggs in ice water to cool them quickly and stop the cooking process.

3. Bring the following ingredients to a simmer: 20 ounces of soy sauce ½ cup of brown sugar 2 tablespoons black pepper 3-5 bay leaves 5-7 cloves

While you are waiting for the soy sauce mix to simmer, start cracking the shells on the eggs and place them in the pan. Don’t peel the shells off entirely; just crack them enough to allow the flavors to soak into the eggs. Using the flat end of a butter spoon works well for this task.

4. Place eggs in the pot and cover the pot. Allow the eggs to simmer for 3 minutes.

5. Put the eggs in the quart-sized jar and pour ½ the sauce into the jar as well.

6. Add hot sauce of your choice. 1 tablespoon if you don’t want the eggs to be real spicy, increase the amount based on your desired spice preference.

7. Pour the rest of the soy sauce mix over the eggs.

8. Gently shake the jar to mix the hot sauce into the soy sauce.

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9. Place the jar in the refrigerator for 24 hours, shaking the jar gently a couple times to ensure all eggs soak in the mix.

10. When you are ready to eat them, peel the shells off and enjoy. You should have a salty, spicy and flavorful snack that is both rich in protein and delicious. Perfect for a day in the woods or on the water.

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Choosing aGas MaskBy Bear Canelo

T o most “civilized” folk, owning a gas mask is a bit extreme, but then, I find it odd that anyone would want

to be unprepared. Especially for a California resident, the Golden State is prone to a host of natural disasters where smoke, chemical exposure, or radiation can be a severe issue. There are a lot of misconceptions out there about what one needs, and there are certainly barriers of entry that need to be negotiated. First, it is important to understand that the term “gas mask” is rather inaccurate. If one is misinformed, one could easily walk into their neighborhood hardware store and pick up some standard painting masks and think “these will work.” They will not, and they are not “gas masks.”

They are simply particulate masks, designed to protect only against very coarse material like dust. They will not protect your lungs from exposure to smoke, chemicals, or biological material. For home, bunker, or bug-out-bag, you want to make sure that you have a respirator of some variety ready to go. There are a whole host of options, and it’s easy to get distracted by the many types and subclasses, but in broad strokes, you should look at standard respirators, full-face, powered respirators (FFPR), and self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA). Each comes with its own advantages and disadvantages, but it is important to know what your gear’s limitations are before committing any resources.

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Standard Respirators These “gas masks” rely on filters to scrub the air as you breathe, and they are by far the lightest, cheapest, and most widely available option. The filtration system is powered by your own breathing. This design allows them to be lightweight and there is no need to worry about a battery pack or air tank. It also means that they can be used disposably without losing a large investment. They are the fastest to utilize as there is no need to correctly assemble multiple pieces. They can be transported easily and stored with minimal investment of space. It is important to note that even these simple respirators are still going to protect your lungs against most threats as the most common biological weapons have spores of about 1 micron. This means that so long as the filtration system is rated at .3 microns or more (not uncommon), your lungs are safe. The problems here are that these masks are taxing on the body.

Half-masks also leave your eyes exposed, so you are still vulnerable to numerous chemical and biological hazards.

Full-Face SystemsThese are a great alternative to the standard respirator, unless you are claustrophobic. Filtration is powered by your own lungs, so this means that even with a clean filter, your lungs have to work harder to draw in oxygen. For children, the elderly, or those with chronic breathing issues, that can be difficult. There is a psychological factor as well, and chances are if you need a respirator, you are already in a heightened stress environment, so having an extra layer of physical and mental stress can be too much for some. Lastly, these respirators require an excellent fit as they are susceptible to leaks, so you have to try them on, and if you do order online, be sure to order from a reputable vendor with a customer-centric return policy.

Powered RespiratorThis is pretty much exactly what it sounds like: a respirator that filters air through a powered mechanism, often utilizing a hood over a mask. There are a host of advantages here, the first being that powered respirators offer more protection. With your head completely covered, malicious agents do not have an easy pathway into your bloodstream, and since the system has positive air-pressure, even with a leak, air is expelled out of the leak rather than drawn into the system. As the powered respirator draws in oxygen on its own, your lungs do not have to work excessively, and so there is far less strain on your system. Most powered respirators are still relatively light,

and especially with a full hood, they are not too difficult to properly don in an emergency situation. They are also far more generous in terms of fit, so there is not as much need to test different models to see which works best for you.

The limitations of powered respirators are that they are reliant on their power-supply, and so a bad battery means that the entire system becomes useless. This does require that you have a solid stockpile of these batteries, which is an additional cost and storage concern to keep in mind. Also, if a battery fails during a survival situation, you will have to expose yourself to harm to change the battery. A powered respirator is also tactically more

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vulnerable as there are several points of failure, namely the hose between the filter and hood can become damaged as can the battery pack, and with a hose connected to your body, the chance to snag is present. As with any filter-based system, you are limited by the life of the filter but now also by the battery, this is worth remembering. They are also considerably more expensive than a standard respirator in terms of money.

Self-Contained Breathing Apparatus(SCBA)This is the pinnacle of protection. Using its own oxygen tank, there is no need to worry about filters as it directly supplies you with clean air. This is what firefighters wear when entering a burning building as it offers the highest level of protection. Like a powered respirator, leaks and fit are less of an issue as the system has positive pressure, so any leaks will expel rather than draw material in, and like a powered respirator, there is no strain on the lungs as oxygen is directly supplied. If you are concerned about airborne threats, then the SCBA offers the best solution in terms of efficiency.

The downside to an SCBA system is logistical, in more than one way. First, these systems are

expensive. Outfitting a family of four with a SCBA system is going to set you back about the cost of a decent used car. Second, these systems are complicated, and properly assembling, donning, and activating one in a high-stress environment is daunting without constant training. Third, they are physically demanding as the system is by far the heaviest, so a weaker team member may struggle to carry the oxygen tank on their back for even a short time. Another issue is that most tanks only have 20-40 minutes of supply, far less than any other, so it limits your operational window. Lastly, storage can become an issue as you need to have the oxygen tanks stored with backups, and of course, the means to refill these. If you can overcome these logistical issues, then by all means, the SCBA offers the best protection that money, time, space, and physicality can buy.

In short, if you do not have much experience, a standard respirator is enough protection to manage most issues that you are likely to encounter. But make sure to try these masks on first. If you have team members like young children or aged parents, a powered respirator is a good investment to help keep them safe with minimal strain, and if you have the means, the SCBA is the most effective.

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By A.M.B. Steventon

DIY Crowbar Grappling HookClimbing a tree with high branches, clearing a wall or gaining access to a building through the roof can be a challenge. A grappling hook would make any of these tasks a feasible endeavor. However most of us do not keep a grappling hook on hand, and finding one or buying one in a pinch is easier said than done. But, most of us do already have the all makings for a grappling hook in our garage or the back of our truck. All you really need is a crowbar (or two) and a stout rope. Climbing rope would be preferable, (anywhere from 500 lb. to 800 lb. tensile strength). In terms of the crowbar(s), I’d recommend a gooseneck model about as long as the distance from your wrist to your armpit. That is about anywhere from 20 to 24 inches in length. The most important part of this grappling hook apart from the crowbar itself is the knot used to attach the rope to the crowbar. The last thing you want to happen is to have the knot slip and slide along the shaft, which would cause the weight to shift, cause the grappling hook itself to shift and potentially come free from its points of purchase.

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The best and strongest option would be to use a rope twice as long as the height that one intended to climb. For example, if you were to climb 30 feet you would want 60 feet of rope. That way you would have a double rope to climb, effectively doubling your tensile strength. Using a “Cat’s Paw” knot you would have the added benefit and security of knowing that if one rope should accidentally break, the other will take the load and the knot will still hold. If you only had enough rope to make the climb (30 feet of rope for a 30-foot climb) you could still use the Cat’s Paw as it is designed to hold should one line break, however you would just fold the rope over on itself with about a one-foot length at the end you were using to tie the knot. There is another knot that can be tied using a single strand of rope, designed to hold even if the rope is wet and slippery. It’s called an “Anchor Bend.” It is essentially a round turn and two half hitches. The more you pull on it, the tighter it bites.

Now, if you happen to have two crowbars you can lash them together to form an “X” which will give you a larger surface area and greater holding power as well as reduce the possibility of slippage. The drawback of this design is that it will be heavier and may be harder to throw to the same height/distance that you can throw a single crowbar. Depending on the situation you could also lash crowbars parallel to each other with the hooks facing away from each other.

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Battle of the Belts

By Hunt Haldeman

While a normal belt will keep your pants from falling down if you’ve loaded

up your pockets with the everyday essentials, survivalists require a bit more. When you need to have more than your wallet, phone and keys on you but a standard store-bought belt just won’t do it…you need to get tactical. We decided to take a leap into the world of tactical belts and review two options out there on the market that are available to anyone looking to keep their britches up and then some.

Reinforced Instructor vsThe Peacekeeper

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Uncle Mike’s is a brand that needs little introduction to those who frequent outdoor sporting goods shops. Almost anywhere in the lower 48 states, as well as in Alaska, you can find Uncle Mike’s holsters, bags, and other accessories. A company known for producing a great deal of decent quality gear at affordable prices for the working man, the folks over at Uncle Mike’s have done it again with the Reinforced Instructor Belt.

Based on the classic riggers or rescue-belt design, the Reinforced Instructor Belt is sturdy enough to mount heavy-duty, full-sized pistols, as well as other equipment like magazine cases, flashlights and dump bags. This belt is the ideal width (1 to 1-1/2-inch) for

khakis, jeans and standard-issue military BDUs. The polymer reinforcement between layers of rigid nylon makes it a winner in terms of being a functional belt for basic-level operators.

When it comes to matters of a potential force-on-force engagement, self-defense scenarios or prepper needs, this is a fantastic belt…especially for the money. The only drawback this belt has is that it’s Velcro, which makes it less than desirable as a hunting belt, because taking it on and off can be very noisy. Aside from that, the Reinforced Instructor Belt is an excellent entry-level tactical belt for any survivalist.

Black Beard belts is a newer company that has stepped onto the scene with a strong line of tactical belts. The Peacekeeper is no exception. The frustrations of contemporary tactical belt owners, such as limited adjustability, rollover, stretch, and lack of flexibility in cold-weather environments have all been addressed by the folks at Black Beard. One of the most notable things about this belt is the polymer material that makes slippage virtually impossible. If you are looking for a sturdy, American-made tactical belt that can handle everything from extra mag pouches to dump bags, heavy-duty pistols or pepper spray, this is it. We particularly love the ratchet feature, which allows for perfect ¼” incremental adjustments.

The only drawback to the Peacekeeper belt, similar to the Reinforced Instructor Belt, is the noise that is made when operating the belt. The loud clicking of the ratchet system makes for a dead giveaway if you must take it on or off in the field.

When it comes to choosing a tactical belt for law enforcement officers, private security contractors, or tactically minded preppers, the Peacekeeper is a solid bet. Black Beard also has other belts that stem from this flagship model, such as the Warfighter. We suggest checking out their whole product line at blackbeardbelts.com.

Specs100% Nylon • 0.2″ High • 3.7″ Wide • Heavy Duty Precision Stitching • Styled After Traditional

Rescue/Riggers Belts • Polymer Reinforcement, Sandwiched Between Two Layers Of Nylon 1.5 Inches Wide • Weight: Approx. 12Oz. • Msrp: $30.00

Specs1.5” wide • 5/32” Thick • Aluminum/Steel Ratchet Buckle • High Tensile Strength Ladder Strap

Super Durable Polymer Coated Nylon • Polymer Material • MSRP: $95.00

The Reinforced Instructor Belt The Peacekeeper

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Materials:Crockpot • 16 Oz Mason Jar • Food Grade Vegetable Glycerin • Valerian Root • Hops Flowers

Chamomile Flowers • Dark Glass Bottle/Vial For Storage

DIY Herbal Sleep TinctureBy Bronwyn Dean

This is a quick method to make your own cost-effective sleep aid. It is an excellent project for homesteaders

and naturalists who are interested in solving the modern-day plight of insomnia. If you have more time, or don’t have a Crockpot, you can steep the herbs in the glycerin for

6-8 weeks, shaking the jar at least once a week. The longer method possibly makes the tincture more potent. I recommend leaving your jar somewhere where you can see it and won’t forget to shake it, but many herbalists swear by leaving it in a dark cabinet during the infusion period.

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Step 1Pour 1 oz. finely chopped valerian root, 1 oz. chamomile flowers and .5 oz hops flowers in 16 oz mason jar. Unpacked, this should fill your jar about ¾ full.

Step 2Add boiling hot waterto just cover herbs.

Step 3Add your vegetable glycerin(note: this comes out gloppy)to fill jar, will take approx. 14-15 oz.

Step 4Cover jar with lid and place in Crockpot ¾ full of water (note:you can wrap the mason jar with a towel to ensure glass doesn’t crack).

Step 5Keep in Crockpot on high for 24 hrs, make sure to keep water filled.

Whenever possible, I prefer gathering my own chamomile and hops flowers, but you will most likely have to purchase the valerian root. You can also use valerian flowers, but the root has more potency.

Even purchasing all of the ingredients for the tincture brought me to about $1.50-$1.75 cost per ounce compared to the prepared bottles of the same product that go for anywhere from $10-$15 an ounce.

If you have Oatstraw or Skullcap and wish to add even more potency to your tincture, either one is a great addition, I recommend only using about a half ounceof either.

Lavender is also an ingredient commonly used in sleep aids, and can be added, but I don’t care for the flowerytaste and leave it out.

NOTE: You can order the glycerin and herbs in bulk,I use Mountain Rose Herbs because I trust the quality, and their herbs are untreated.

https://www.mountainroseherbs.com/

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Step 6Remove from heat and let jar and contents cool completely, I generally just leave it out overnight.

Step 7Strain the tincture from the spent herb material. For this, I find the easiest thing to use is a French press, but you can use a strainer or cheesecloth if you have it.

Step 8Pour your finished tincture into dark glass bottles for storage, so it won’t break down in the light. A small funnel is helpful here. I prefer one-ounce tincture bottles with droppers for this. Bottles can also be ordered from the herb store, or repurposed from your old medicines –just make sure to clean them well first. Be sure to label your bottles so someone doesn’t take your sleeping potion by accident.

Directions for Use:Typically, a half-dropper full about a half hour before you are ready to go to sleep does the trick. Some folks need more. This is safe to take if you wake in the middle of the night as well. The glycerin formula (as opposed to alcohol tincture) is safe for older children and a bit milder. It’s still pretty bitter, so some people prefer to take it mixed in a drink.

Please use common sense here! Valerian is a sedative, and hops and chamomile serve as calmatives, so don’t use any of this before operating machinery. Any leftover herbs can be mixed in equal parts to make a sleep aid tea, even furthering your value. I steep one tea strainer for 5 minutes to really get the valerian properties. It’s a light-colored, bitter tasting brew, so be sure to add some sweetener to get it down. The tea mix can be stored in an air-tight jar.

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DIY RailroadSpikeKnife

By Josh Lutje

The glowing hot steel slowly takes shape with each glance of the hammer until what was only an idea is now formed in

cold, hard alloy. Shaped and heated, quenched and sharpened, a raw rusty thing of burden is now a fine, beautifully honed tool. Why forge a knife from a railroad spike? For the same reason a fisherman might make his own fishing pole or a woodsman might delight in lighting a fire with stick and bow rather than with matches. The more aspects of your adventures that you take part in shaping, the more intimate your experience. Forging a railroad spike knife may seem like a huge task, after all, you need to heat it glowing orange, then pound, grind, sharpen, and harden it to finish. But what it takes to pull this off is not extraordinary. Using the right set of tools and a bit of old-fashioned grit, you can create a knife that is both sturdy and attractive.

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The SpikeRailroad spikes are an ideal starter medium for knife making as they are typically cheap, if not free. While nostalgia may tempt you to go pick one up from your local railroad track, be warned, the tracks and areas around them are private property. You are much safer stopping by your local railyard and asking for any old or bent spikes. Most yard managers will be more than happy to send you home with a few. If you are able, look for spikes that are stamped “HC” on the heads, this stands for “high carbon.” While this is still a relatively low carbon steel by a knife maker’s standards, it will give you a better edge than a standard spike. Don’t bother worrying about the rust, the forging process will take care of that for you.

The ForgeThere are many local companies and farm suppliers that offer small farrier forges for those who wish to really get into the art, however if you’re just scratching an itch, there are many ways to make your own using household materials. I highly recommend looking up D.I.Y. plans for a coffee can forge online. Propane forges work quickly and leave very little mess, while coal or briquette air forges offer a more old-timey feel. Either way your goal is to get the spike as hot as possible.

The HammerA heavier hand sledge as well as a lighter ball peen hammer will be ideal for this build. The heavier the hammer, the faster progress. You will want to be able to control your swing as much as possible to aid in the shaping process. The smaller hammer will help with the finer touches and will smooth out some of the gouges left from the roughing of the heavier hammer.

The AnvilFor some reason, anvils have gone from being $5 yard-sale finds, to several hundred-dollar collectables in the last ten years or so. Unless you are fortunate enough to have your own, an old piece of railroad track works great for getting started. This can also be acquired by going to the railyard and asking politely.

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The ProcessDraw out your concept if you’re a planner. First, determine your handle length and whether or not you would like to put a twist in it. If a twist is to your liking, insert only the handle (the head of the spike) into your forge and heat it until it is glowing orange. When working with hot metal, you’re on a clock that starts the moment you take it off the heat source. The key is not to rush, and to know when it’s too cool to work it anymore. Take the spike out and insert the cool side into a bench vice. Use a pipe wrench or vice grips, attach to the top of the spike and twist the metal. Twist until the ideal visual is achieved, this should be done in one motion without having to reheat the handle.

Next, insert only the blade end into the forge. Make sure it is glowing up to the intended hilt. Remove, and begin to shape your blade. This may take several sessions depending on your experience and satisfaction. It will look misshapen and downright ugly at first but keep it hot and keep pounding and you will see your vision take shape.

Now that you have a blade shape that makes you smile, it is time to grind the edge. It is important to grind off equal material from each side and check the straightness of the edge as you do. When you are satisfied with your ground edge, it is time to harden your steel.

To harden your steel, reheat your blade until red, but not quite orange. Next, quench the blade into a bucket of water or oil. For low carbon steel, like a railroad spike, repeat this process two or three times. This process will harden your blade to the point of being brittle, so be sure not to drop the knife, as this will likely shatter the blade. Now, polish your blade using sandpaper to your desired look. This will allow for a rustic, hand-forged look. Once that is finished you can temper the knife.

To temper your blade, that is to keep its hardness, use a small propane torch and watch for coloring on the polished steel. At a lower temperature you will see a brownish “straw” color, then a rose and blue color as the temperature rises. You need only

heat to the straw color. This will keep your blade hard enough to hold an edge but strong enough to survive a fall. If you overheat your piece too far and begin to see the blue color, don’t fear, just reharden your blade and re-polish.

Lastly, hone your knife just as you would a hunting knife that has never been sharpened. Start with a coarse grit stone and work your way up. Often, a really sharp blade will be finished off with a leather strop or diamond imbedded stone. You should now have a unique and usable knife, a work of art, made by your own hands and by the sweat of your own brow. Use it to field dress your next deer or prep the next riverside catch.

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Field to Fork: Spring Black Bear Harvest

By Hunt Haldeman

There is absolutely no other hunt quite like spring bear. It gets in your blood and stays there. Not only is hunting spring black bear a great way to test your skills in the outdoors, it is also an excellent way to put food on the table. An average-sized black bear can provide a great deal of meat that can be prepared many different ways.

If you live in or frequent one of the states where an over-the-counter spring bear tag can be purchased, consider yourself lucky. States like Alaska, Idaho, Oregon and Montana all bless their huntsmen with over-the-counter tags that make the administrative end of a spring bear harvest pretty easy to navigate. That being said, there is very little about bear hunting in general that is easy. In choosing to hunt bear, you are electing to match wits with a creature that is sneaky, elusive and well-adapted to its

environment. Native Americans called bear “man without fire,” and highly revered the creature for its perseverance, strength and stealth. Hunting bears on their own turf and being successful is no small feat, but it can be done consistently if you apply yourself and put in the work.

As with any adventure, everything begins with proper planning. If you are seriously considering going after a spring bruin, the first thing you need to do is find out the regulations in the state you intend to hunt in. Some states, such as Idaho, permit hunting with dogs. Other states, such as Alaska and Utah allow for baiting bears. But for the most part, when it comes to hunting out west, spot-and-stalk is the name of the game. Given that this will likely be the method of harvest for you, you must tailor your gear to this particularity.

Spot-and-Stalk Tactics forWest Coast Bruins

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GearSpot-and-stalk tactics require that you see the bear before he sees you. This is crucial, as it provides you the time needed to judge the size of your bear, as well as set up a proper shot. In order to do this, you’re going to need serious glass. The majority of bear habitat out west is steep, canyon country. Clear cuts and grassy benches drop down into thick vegetation and old-growth sanctuaries. To find a bear in all this, before he finds you, is going to require some serious glassing. Buy or borrow the best binoculars you can. You may want to invest in a spotting scope, but you most definitely will need a good rangefinder. By good, we mean something that can give you a solid, consistent reading. It is extremely important that you have the ability to gauge the distance of your shot. The other two essential pieces of gear that must be accounted for are your boots and your backpack. Spring bear hunting out west is sometimes jokingly referred to as armed hiking, and for good reason. To get to where the bears are usually requires going miles on foot, beyond the locked gates of the local timber barons. Make sure you have comfortable footwear to meet the occasion.

RifleChoosing a bear rifle is a topic of debate among almost all who have ventured after Ursus americana. While some folks prefer to use the biggest caliber they can, in order to produce a legitimate anchoring shot, other hunters choose slightly smaller and faster-moving bullets in order to produce an exit wound and blood trail. While the author is a fan of the former, not the later school of thought, it is important to note that using a bigger

bullet also means damaging more meat. That said, a bear has an incredible will to live, and unless you achieve a precise shot that drops him in his tracks, the creature will likely run fifty yards or more before stacking up. What must also be taken into account is that a bear’s fur is thick and prone to matting when wet. This makes following their blood trails difficult, as the animal’s pelt tends to absorb a great deal of blood even if a healthy exit wound is present. A good compromise between zip and power for a bear gun would be the 30-06, or a .308. Look to take a broadside shot that passes through both of the animal’s lungs. It would also be prudent for a hunter to carry a decent sidearm, given that black bears are potentially dangerous when threatened…and being shot or shot at is pretty threatening.

The author’s preferred bear gun is a Ruger American, chambered in 30-06, fitted with Richard Buss muzzlebreak, Leopold VX-2 scope, Karsten Adjustable Cheek Piece, and Harris bipod.

TacticsHunting West Coast bears is all about following the food. While it is true that black bears are both omnivores and opportunists, the beginning of the spring season effects their diet quite specifically. As their stomachs have not yet adjusted to eating meat quite yet, the bears look to graze on the softer ruffage. At the very beginning of the season, focus your efforts on swampy areas or grassy banks near water. This is when you can get the drop on bears in small creeks, given that they often go after skunk

cabbage, dandelions and tubers. Using hip waders and quietly creeping along the creekside is a solid tactic. Then, toward the middle and later portion of the season, take to the canyons. Look for south-facing slopes, preferably with old growth on the edges and water in the bottom. As a rule of thumb, you want to make sure you are hunting spring bear as close to the end of the season as possible. This is because the end of the season, usually around late May, is when the rut begins. Which means you can find old Yogi looking for love in all the wrong places, like in your crosshairs, which is right when you can capitalize on his state of distraction. Most importantly, whichever tactic you choose, it is utterly imperative that you seek to outwit the bear’s sense of smell. A black bear has a sense of smell that is about 7 times greater than a bloodhound. Play the wind. Go to great lengths to do so, or you will see nothing but the backside of bears as they high-tail it away from you.

NOTE: Carrying a small wind checker is a good way to ensure that you keep track of where your scent is blowing. You can make your own using a small plastic squeeze bottle and some corn starch. Check out this tutorial here: primitivesurvivors.com/diy-wind-checker/

HarvestOnce your spring bear is down, the real work begins. Most hunters come to bear hunting from a deer-hunting background and quickly find out how different the field dressing element is. This is primarily because of how much fat is on a bear. A good-sized boar can have up to an inch or more of fat layer beneath his fur. This makes for a slippery time when trying to get your quarry out of his bear suit. Logic would indicate that you should go as slowly as possible, so as not to risk slipping and cutting yourself, however time is not often a luxury for the spring bear hunter. Getting the pelt off as soon as possible is crucial to preserving the meat. The warmer the spring day, the quicker you need to get that pelt off. Also, take note of your local laws, states such as Oregon have a mandatory check-in for bear skulls. Meaning, you are required by law to bring the skull back to the local wildlife biologist for age testing.

When harvesting your spring bear, don’t pass up on taking the liver as well as the heart.

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Food TimeBear meat is a downright backwoods delicacy when properly prepared. There are plenty of ways to cook bear, but if you are looking to maximize your food storage as well as taste and texture, try pressure canning it. Cut your bear into small pieces and load up a set of Mason jars, about three-quarters of the way full with the meat. Next, add a bit of jalapeño juice to the jars, fill about a quarter of each jar with it. Cut a few garlic cloves and add sparingly to each jar. Then, seal your jars and pressure cook them. The natural acidity of the jalapeño juice breaks down the bear meat to a consistency of pulled pork, spicy pulled pork. The meat will be perfect for tacos, enchiladas or stews. The other added advantage of cooking bear like this, is that you will be able to keep it for years without having to worry about it going bad in the freezer. This is particularly wise for the self-reliant meat hunter.

If you’re not a huge fan of spice, or you don’t happen to have access to a pressure canner, try grinding your bear down with bacon ends. There are few things as delicious as a bacon-bear burger on the summer BBQ grill. If you intend to do this yourself, keep in mind that the amount of fat on bear meat makes hand-grinding less than desirable. Look to use an electric meat grinder, or just pay a few extra bucks and take it to your butcher.

For those who feel more adventurous, try chicken-frying your bear liver. You can check out our special recipe online at primitivesurvivors.com/country-fried-bear-liver/

Fire PistonBy A.M.B. Steventon

HistoryThe fire piston is a simple machine of ancient origins, used in Southeast Asia and the Pacific Islands for thousands of years. They were and are commonly found in cultures where blow pipes were used as weapons and tools for harvesting food. Anthropologists suspect that the fire piston developed from blow pipe construction because it requires such a precise method of manufacture. The first fire piston in the Western world was made in 1745 by Abbot Agostino Ruffo of Verona, Italy who had been given the task of making air guns for

the king of Portugal. While testing air gun pumps for leaks by plugging the outlet with a piece of wood, he observed that, after pressurizing the air chamber, the wood became charred. Ruffo made a working model afterward to further observe and study this curious event and discovered that it could light tinder which could then be used to start a fire. Fire pistons or “fire syringes” were everyday household tools throughout Europe in the early nineteenth century and may have been the inspiration for Rudolf Diesel in his creation of the diesel engine in 1892.

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Usage and FunctionThe fire piston works on the same principle as that of a diesel engine by rapid and adiabatic compression of air (or gas), which in turn reaches upwards of 400 degrees Fahrenheit. This causes auto ignition of a carbonized tinder in the case of the fire piston, or old dinosaur bones in the case of the diesel engine.

Note: In thermodynamics, an adiabatic process is one that occurs without transfer of heat or matter between a thermodynamic system and its surroundings.

A fire piston is comprised of a hollow cylinder which is sealed at one end (but with a bleeder valve) and open at the other end to accommodate insertion of the plunger or piston which has an airtight circular seal formed by a greased string, a rubber O-ring or just plain grease. At the end of the piston that is inserted into the cylinder is a small hollow cavity or depression to hold the tinder and prevent it from being crushed as the piston is slammed down.

As soon as the piston is struck it needs to be withdrawn immediately so that the tinder may have enough oxygen to keep the ember alive (it helps to blow on it). Take care to ensure that you have a nest of non-carbonized tinder, a fire bundle such as Jute, dry moss, shredded birch bark or shredded cedar bark on hand to transfer the ember into so that it may be blown into a flame and added to a pre-prepared fire circle.

The key to starting a fire with primitive methods is forethought. All of the steps in the process need to be prepared in advance. Tinder, fire bundle, kindling tepee, larger pieces of wood, etc. It’s imperative that at least the first two steps be kept dry. It also helps to include pitch and/or pitch wood in your kindling tepee because it burns hot and it burns wet.

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