sheaffer+snorkel+repair

8/12/2019 Sheaffer+Snorkel+Repair

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Sheaffer Snorkel Repair

I recently repaired a Snorkel (a Special) and thought it would be good idea to share myexperience with everybody. The following is a brief account of the procedure which went ratherwell considering the fact that it was my first snorkel repair. Lacking a digital camera I made a!uick sketch of the Snorkel assembly and various parts of interest. Scanned version of this sketchhas been attached to this post (and also stored on the web "here) for reference.

#$%. Tools and Supplies used by me &

'. ' Thin wall *ubber sac for Snorkel (Source+,ood -in). /"ring and 0oint 1older 2asket (Source+ 3artin 4erguson)5. Silicone 2rease ('667 0ure 4ood 2rade) (Source+ Silicone 2rease for 8ivers). Talc ('667 0ure 9nscented ) (Source+Talc 0owder for -illiards):. ';= ?abinet Tip Slotted Screwdriver (Source+ Local 1ardware Store)>. Shellac (Source+ Local 1ardware Store)@. Sac Spreader tweeAers (Source+Local 1obby Store) (Bote+ 0urchased but not re!uired)


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I then pushed the rubber stopper out of the sac protector using the tip of an ear bud. ,hile doingso I accidentally pushed out the inner rubber feed out of the snorkel tube. I noticed that the feedhad twisted a little when it was pushed out so that the slit on the feed no longer aligned with theslit on the snorkel tube. I then decided to push out the feed completely clean it realign it andpush it back. This was accomplished by slowly and carefully pushing it using a 6$,2 wire.Luckily (beginnerEs luckFF) for me it slid out without breaking. This gave me a good opportunity tostudy this part carefully.

/nce the stopper was out it was !uite easy to clean the remains of the old sac and to shellac thenew sac in place. I spread the shellac in a thin coat using a tooth pick and could easily slip on thenew sac onto the rubber stopper without using the Sac spreader tweeAers. I let the new sac dryfor more than an hour. -efore using the shellac I had pre"tested the shellac for drying time. Thesac received an ample dose of talc and the rubber stopper ;sac assembly was pushed back intothe sac protector. I carefully re"crimped the sac protector and ensured that it slid properly into thesection. The snorkel assembly was allowed to dry overnight.

(ii) /"*ing *eplacement+ This proceeded very fast. The rear cap was unscrewed. I noticed thatthe rubber washer inside the rear cap was intact. Then using the sharp end of the sewing needleI prodded and carefully took out the old /"*ing. I inserted and anchored one end of the new /"

*ing into the slot and then using a wooden skewer I maneuvered the remaining part of /"ring intothe slot.

(iii) 0oint 1older 2asket *eplacement+ This was easiest of all. Initially I found the new gasket verytight. 1owever after a few operations it loosened a little. I avoided using silicone grease as I didnot feel comfortable with the thought of some of it finding its way into the feed gumming it up. Ihope the gasket will loosen up progressively with time and use.

(iv) 4inal $ssembly and Testing+ I applied a thin layer of silicone grease on the spring and on therear end of the touchdown tube Gust below the rear cap. *e"assembled the pen. ?hecked for thetell"tale sounds of puffs on the up and down strokes of the touchdown tube. Tested the pen withwater. S!uirts of water confirmed the air seals in the pen and proper operation. 8isassembled thepen and tested for leaks from the rubber stopper onto the snorkel tube and inside the section.

Satisfied with the results I proceeded to re"assemble the pen and to f ill it with ,atermanEs 4lorida-lue Ink. The pen started laying down a smooth firm and wet line immediately on contact withpaper.

#?%. ?onclusion+

The snorkel is an absolute delight to work on. ,ith patience and careful planning the repair is

possible even for a absolute beginner like me.


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sheaffer+snorkel+repair

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