shed build1391scribd

7/28/2019 Shed Build1391scribd

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shed build

Modular construction and inexpensive materials make this shed easy to build and easy to afford.

We'll show you how to build this shed and provide you with the plans and materials list you need

to get started. Don't be intimidated by the size of this project. We use simple construction

m e t h o d s t o m a k e t h e b u i l d i n g p r o c e s s a s e a s y a s p o s s i b l e .

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We designed this shed with money saving in mind. Even the dimensions are designed to make

the most efficient use of lumber. Here are some of the ways you'll save with our shed design.

OSB siding

Siding panels made from oriented strand board cost far less than solid wood or plywood panels,

and come preprimed, saving you money and labor. Since the panels are also structural, you don't

need an additional layer of sheathing under the siding. You'll save about $500 over the cost of

cedar plywood siding.

Wood foundation

Hiring a concrete contractor to pour a slab for this shed could cost you $1,000, but the materials

for this wood foundation will set you back only about $250. Plus, a wood foundation is easy to

build even on sites that slope or have difficult access.

Cost-cutting custom door

Materials for this door cost about $140. A similar style prehung exterior door can easily cost morethan $1,000. Of course, this door isn't as weather-tight as a prehung door, and it wouldn't work on

your house, but it's perfect for a shed. You get the look of an expensive custom wood door

without the cost.

Easy arch-top windows

If you've ever priced arch-top windows, you know how expensive they can be. Even windows that

don't operate are likely to cost $400 apiece. But you can simulate the look of an expensive

window without spending a ton of money. These windows cost about $60 each and are easy to

build with materials you'll find at any home center or lumberyard.

Composite trim

Composite trim saves you money and time right away. It's less expensive than solid wood (you'll

save up to $160), it doesn't have knots or other defects to work around, and it comes preprimed

and ready for paint. And it'll save you time and money in the long run since it holds paint better

and longer than even the best-quality exterior wood.

Arch-top windows and a custom door give this shed a high-quality look that belies its low cost and

simple construction. The panelized construction technique means you could build the parts in

your garage on a rainy weekend and then haul them to the site for assembly. Modest finishes like

OSB siding and composite trim and fiberglass shingles help keep the materials cost low. And
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you'll save hundreds of dollars by providing your own labor to build the door and windows. The

modular construction and wood platform foundation mean you can construct this shed almost

anywhere, even on remote or sloping sites. In this article, we'll show you the basics of how to

build the shed and install the windows and doors.

We found all the materials to build this shed at our local home center. Most of the construction is

straightforward and requires only standard carpentry tools and a circular saw. To build the

windows and door, you'll also need a table saw, power miter saw and router. We used a Kreg

pocket hole jig and pocket hole screws to assemble the door and windows. With a helper or two,

you could have the platform and shell built in two or three days. Then expect to spend four or five

more days completing the siding, trim, doors, windows and roofing.

A few weeks before you start, check with your local building department to see whether a permit

is required and to find out how close to the lot lines you can build. Then call 811 for instructions

on how to locate buried utility lines. The first step is to set a pair of treated 6x6s on gravel beds as

a foundation for the shed platform.

When you've decided on a shed location, dig two trenches 16 in. wide, 12 in. deep and 13 ft. long.

Center the trenches 66 in. apart. Fill the trenches with a 3-in. layer of gravel and compact it with a

hand tamper. Repeat this process until the trench is full. Use a level and long board to level the

top layer of gravel. If the ground is flat, also make sure the gravel beds in the two trenches are

level with each other.

Cut the treated 6x6s to 12 ft. and set them on the gravel so they're parallel and the outside edgesare 6 ft. apart. On sloped ground, you'll have to raise the 6x6 on the low side until it's level with

the adjacent 6x6. Do this by stacking treated 2x6s, 4x6s or 6x6s on top of the treated 6x6 to reach

the right height. Use a 4-ft. or longer level to make sure the 6x6s are level and level with each

other. Finally, square the 6x6s by adjusting the position of one 6x6. Slide the 6x6 back and forth,

not sideways, until the diagonal measurements from opposite corners are equal. Build the

platform with treated 2x6s, 24 in. on center, and cover it with treated 3/4-in. plywood.

You can build the walls on any flat surface, but the shed platform is ideal. Snap chalk lines on the

plywood deck, 3-1/2 in. from the edges of the platform, to indicate the inside edge of the walls.

Measure to make sure the lines are parallel and 89 in. apart. Then chalk a line down the center

(Photo 1). You'll use this line to make sure the angled top plates meet in the center.

Use dimensions from Figure C (in Additional Information below) to snap lines for the peak. Then

cut 2x4s to fit inside the lines and toe-screw them to the plywood to hold them in place while you

fill in the center studs (Photo 1) and nail on the siding (Photo 2). Toe-screw from the outside so

the screws will be accessible after the siding is installed.

When you nail on the siding, make sure it overhangs the framing on each side by 3-1/2 in. and

that you've trimmed off the top corner to follow the slope of the angled top plate (Photo 2). Attach

the siding with 2-in. galvanized or stainless steel ring-shank siding nails placed 8 in. apart along


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studs and 6 in. apart along the edges of the sheets. You'll have to nail blocking between the studs

to support the top edge of the siding and the Z-flashing.

Complete the siding, then remove the toe-screws and move the wall aside to make room for

constructing the opposite wall. Use the same chalk line template and process to build the

opposite end wall. Figure C (in Additional Information below) shows framing details for the front

wall. Mark the curves on the 2x10 header pieces using the trammel setup shown in Photo 12 and

Figure G (in Additional Information below). Cut them with a jigsaw. When you're done building the

front and back walls, set them aside so you can use the platform to build the roof sections.

It's unconventional, but building the roof upside down on the platform has advantages. First, you

avoid a lot of ladder work. And second, you can nail the soffit material to the overhangs easily

without having to work overhead and in cramped spaces. You do have to take a little extra care to

make sure the framing is square and the perimeter 2x4s are perfectly straight before nailing on

the soffit, though. Start by cutting out the rafters using the pattern in Figure D (in Additional

Information below) as a guide.

Omit the bird's-mouth from four rafters and use these on the ends. Cut the 2x4s for the ridge and

subfascia to length and mark the rafter positions on them. Line up the rafters with the marks and

nail through the ridge and subfascia with 16d nails to secure them. When the roof frame is

complete, line up the subfascia with the chalk line on the platform and tack it in three or four

places with toe screws to hold the frame straight while you install the soffit.

Also square the frame by making sure diagonal measurements from opposite corners are equal.Then tack one corner to hold it square. Finally, nail the soffit to the roof frame with 6d galvanized

box nails. We used 12-in.-wide fiber cement siding for soffit material. Mount an inexpensive

carbide blade on your circular saw to cut the fiber cement. Set the roof panel aside and build the

other half of the roof using the same techniques.

Start by moving one of the end panels into place and resting the bottom plate of the wall on the

platform. Tip the wall up and secure it with a temporary angled 2x4 brace. Line up the bottom

plate with the chalk line and drive a few 3-in. screws or 16d nails through the plate to hold the

bottom of the wall in position.

Don't worry about getting the wall plumb yet. It'll be automatic when you stand the back wall and

connect the corners.

Stand the back wall. Then align the corner of the side and back walls and nail them together. With

a helper on the outside of the shed to push if necessary, line up the inside edge of the bottom

plate with the chalk line and nail it to the platform. Continue around the building, standing the

opposite end wall and finally the front wall. Nail the corners together, making sure that the top

plates of adjoining walls are flush with each other.

The roof panels are heavy and a bit awkward, so round up three strong helpers for this part of the


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job. Move the panels into position and lean them against the front and back walls. Then set up

ladders inside the building for two helpers and push one of the panels up to them. Slide the panel

up the roof until the bird's-mouths drop over the top plate of the wall.

Make sure the 2x4 ridge is perfectly aligned with the peak of the wall. Then secure the roof panel

with a pair of toenails through each bird's-mouth into the top plate of the wall. Repeat the process

on the opposite side (Photo 6). Complete the roof framing by nailing the 2x4 ridges together and

adding two 2x4 collar ties, 4 ft. apart.

Ordering a prehung wood door like this from the lumberyard could cost as much as $1,000, but

you can build one suitable for a shed at a fraction of the cost. We purchased clear pine at a home

center and spent $120 for the boards. Photos 8 - 10 show how to build the door and mount it to a

trim piece with hinges. The door consists of two layers of 3/4-in.-thick boards that overlap at the

corners to add strength. Rip 1x6 boards to 4-1/2 in. on a table saw for the outside layer (Figure F,

Additional Information below).

We assembled each layer with pocket screws before gluing the two layers together, but if you

don't own a pocket hole setup, you could simply screw through the overlapping boards instead.

Complete the door frame. Then cut the 4 x 8-ft. grooved plywood to fit the lower recess, and cut a

piece of 1/4-in. acrylic sheet to fit the upper recess. Secure the plywood and acrylic sheet with

1/2-in. x 1/2-in. moldings nailed to the inside. Sand the edges of the door flush.

We've simplified the door-hanging process by mounting the door to a 1-1/2-in.-thick trim piece and

then screwing the trim to the wall. An easy way to mark and cut matching hinge recesses in boththe door and the trim is to clamp the trim alongside the door, making sure it extends 1/8 in.

beyond the top of the door. Then mark the hinge cutout on both the door and the trim at the same

time.

If you have a router, use a hinge-mortising bit (or straight bit) to cut the hinge recesses (Photo

10). Otherwise, use a sharp chisel. Screw the hinges to the door and trim. To hang the door, line

up a temporary 2x4 with the bottom of the siding and screw it to the wall. Then rest the door on

the 2x4 and drive 3-in. screws through the trim into the framing to hold the door in place (Photo

11). Finish the door installation by adding the top and side trim pieces.

This is a good rainy day project since you'll build these parts in your garage or shop. Photos 12 -

14 show how to cut the curved window top and how to assemble the window.

Figure G (in Additional Information below) shows details for the marking jig. Photo 12 shows how

to use this setup to draw the curves for the window pieces. Next cut the side pieces (Figure F, in

Additional Information below). Set the side pieces in place over the top of the header and mark

the angled cuts (Photo 13). Finish the curved trim piece by first cutting the angles on each end,

and then sawing the curves with a jigsaw and sanding them smooth. Use the marking jig to lay

out the curved brace, too (Figure G, in Additional Information below).


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Cut the sill piece and assemble the windows with pocket screws. Using a router with a 3/8-in.

rabbet bit, rout a 3/8-in.-deep recess on the back of the window to receive the 1/4-in. Plexiglas

acrylic sheet (Photo 14). Set the window frame, recessed side down, over a piece of acrylic sheet

and trace the shape with a permanent marker. Cut the curve with a fine-tooth jigsaw blade and

the straight sections with a fine-tooth blade in a table saw or circular saw.

Prime and paint the window and let it dry. Then apply a thin bead of clear silicone in the recess

and embed the acrylic sheet in it. Secure the acrylic sheet with glazing points. Let it set up

overnight. We cut the grid pieces from 3/4-in. x 1/2-in. parting stop and glued them to the acrylic

with clear silicone caulk.

A temporary support makes it simple to install the window. Level a 2x4 and screw it to the wall 2

in. below the window opening. Then rest the window on the 2x4 and center it in the opening

before driving screws to secure it (Photo 15). Use caulk to fill the gaps left by the grooved siding.

Install the exterior trim

Figure A (above) and Figure E (in Additional Information below) show the exterior trim details.

Start by mounting the brackets. Line up the outside edges of the lower brackets with the face of

the siding, push them tight to the soffit and screw them to the wall. Center the top bracket on the

peak and push it tight to the soffit. Starting with the pieces that go under the brackets, wrap the

corners with the corner board. Overlap the front corner board onto the side corner board (Figure

E, in Additional Information below).

Get ready for roofing by adding the fascia boards and shingle molding. Photo 7 shows how tonotch the fascia boards to fit around the brackets. Keep the 1x2 shingle molding flush to the top of

the roof plywood.

Roof, stain and paint the shed

Complete the shed by installing shingles and finishing the exterior. For information on how to

install shingles, go to thefamilyhandyman.com and search for roofing."

Prime and paint the doors and windows before installing them, then you only need to caulk and fill

nail holes before rolling an additional coat of paint onto the flat surfaces. The LP SmartSide panel

siding, the composite fascia and corners, and the fiber cement soffit were all preprimed and

required only two coats of paint to finish.

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