shefali gattani

PORTFOLIO

SHEFALI GATTANI 1st YEAR DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECHNOLOGY

Project Report on

Women's Western Wear

Submitted to

Dezyne E’cole College

Towards the Partial Fulfillment for

Award of Diploma in Fashion Technology

As Technical Knowledge Development to

Women’s Wear

Included With Diploma Program Of

Fashion Technology

By

Shefali Gattani

Dezyne E’cole College Ajmer

Address, 106/10, civil lines, Ajmer

Tel. no.0145 2624679

www.dezyneecole.com

2014-2015

http://www.dezyneecole.com/

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of

tremendous value and enabled me to complete this project

successfully.

I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’ cole who

gave me an opportunity to show my abilities by working on this

project on the esteem organization.

SHEFALI GATTANI

1ST Year diploma in Fashion Technology

1. Fashion as a Person’s Image

2. Fashion Industry

3. Learning Experience

4. Foundation Design

5. Corel Draw

6. Fashion illustration

7. Pattern Engineering

8. Measurement techniques

9. Draping

10.Fabric Manipulation

11.Element and Principle of

Design

CONTENT

Fashion is a more then wearing good clothes it is about presenting a

person’s image in Society , we generally see people accepting

fashion due to pee pressure, Image in the society and when a

person wants a change to brighten his life. There are many reasons

behind what we wear.

• Protection from cold ,rain and snow :- Mountain climbers wear

high – tech outwear to avoid frostbite and over – exposure.

• Physical attention :- Many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”.

• Emotions :- we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when

we’re upset.

• Religious expression :- Orthodox Jewish men wear long part of

their body except their eyes.

• Identification and tradition :- Judges wear robes ,people in the

military wear uniform, brides wear long white dresses.

Fashion as a Person’s Image

Within the sphere of Technology Industries , design technology is

perhaps the fastest growing today. with new technologies emerging

rapidly and industries changing complexion, more and more job

opportunities are up for the taking .It is estimated that India will have

a shortfall of five lakh people in the design sector by 2010-11 but not

all gradates will be employable .Thus bringing the gap between talent

and the skills required by the industry is important. only Today, one in

every four designers is employable and only 10% of the design

graduates manage to get employment in the design industry. Hence

the student should understand the basic requirement of the industry

and exhibit that ability .

Fashion Industry

This is what I learn here at Dezyne E’cole college creating fashion

doesn’t entail a vivid imagination and instinct for creativity. It also

involve many decisions and myriad techniques , focus on a central

idea. Dezyne E’cole Fashion design made me build a strong

foundation in terms of design sence, Conceptualisation

independent research ,creative application and artistic experience

Learning Experience

As a part of fashion industry I am training my self through

formal education in Diploma programme in build with this

study. During the course duration of diploma programme I had

an exposure towards practical working in fashion design.

FOUNDATION DESIGN

Colour is a most vital tool in the hands of fashion

designer. It is the most perceptible and hence is a

central to success and failure of a designer

scheme.it is therefore very important designer that

a designer has a full knowledge and understanding

of its tool.

COLOR IMPACT IN DESIGN

Variation in Cool Color Blue

Variation in Cool Color Yellow

Variation in Cool Color Red

Warm and Cool Color

COLORS

The Yellow is lighter

value then Red

The Blue color is

Darker value then

Orange

The Green is lighter

value then Brown

The Dark Green is

equal in the value to

the Brown

Compare the Blue and Red Rectangles to the Grey

Rectangles or either side of each color. Which Grey is equal in

value to the color ? It may be helpful to stand at a distance

and blur your eyes. If the edge between the two area

disappears, the values are equal.

Comparing Value of Color

Simultaneous Contrast

Corel Draw

COREL DRAW

ILLUSTRATION

Bertha deep

neckline Bertha Tie

Bertha Buster

Brown Style

Bertha Knotted

Ends

Bertha Yoke

style

Bertha - Braid

Edge Trim

COLLARS

Bellow Cargo

Cargo front

Kangaroo Flap Shape

Stitched

Patch Button Flap

POCKETS

Layered Sleeve cap Sleeve

Tulip Sleeve

Bushirt Sleeve

Puff Sleeve

SLEEVES

PATTERN ENGINEERING

Fashion Designing runs the garment from eveningwear to

sportswear, Women’s wear to Men’s wear and Kids wear to

knitwear. Garment Construction is popularly called Pattern

Engineering has a great importance in fashion design industry. The

Companies like van heuson,dockers levis, adidas etc. are the

providers of perfect fit and this is what we learn at Dezyne E’cole

through the art of pattern making.

A slop pattern [ home sewing ] and block pattern [ industrial

production ] is custom – fitted basic pattern from which pattern for

many different styles can be developed.

The Draping method involves creating a Maslin mock up by

pinning fabric directly on a form then transferring the muslin outline

and makings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern

it self.

The flat pattern Draping method is the most commonly used

method in Menswear.

Garment Construction

The Flat pattern method where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat

surface from measurements ,using the ruler and curve and straight

Edges. As a fashion designer I use various tools and measuring

devices to create a toil pattern on dummy.

Measuring Tape

Seam Ripper Scissor

Drafting Scale Tailoring Chalk French curve

Tools and Equipment

Pattern Making Symbol

Various sign and symbols of pattern making which I generally use on pattern:-

Notches :- • Seam allowance

• Center Line

• Ease $ Gather Control • Dart Legs

• Identification of Front & Back • Identification of Joining Parts • Zipper Placement

• Facing

• Hemline

• Waistline

• Shoulder Tip

• Sleeve Cap

Punch / Circle :- • Dart intake

• Corners

• Buttons / Buttonholes

• Trimmings

• Pocket placement

Jog Seam :- A jog seam is used to indicate a change

in the seam allowance. ¼ inch : • All faced areas

• Narrow spacing

• Extreme curve

• Sleeveless armhole ½ inch : • Side seam

• Waist line

• Center line

• Styline

1inch : • Shoulder 2inch : • Straight Hemline

Notches

Number refers to both front & back

wherever indicated :-

1. Center Front Neck Center

Back Neck

2. Center Front Waist Center

Back Waist

3. Bust Point

4. Center Bus Level

5. Center Front [Princess line] Center

Back [Princess line

6. Mid Armhole front Mid Armhole

Back

7. Shoulder Tip

8. Shoulder at Neck

9. Armhole Ridged or Roll Line

10.Plate Screw

11.Armhole Plate

Landmarks

The flat- pattern method is where the entire

pattern is drafted on the flat surface measurement

. Under garment construction we learn about the

measuring techniques on the dress form. That can

be seen here:-

Different ways to taking measurements:-

• Circumference measurements

• Horizontal measurements

• Vertical measurements

Measurement

CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENT

Round Bust

measurement

Round Waist measurement

Round Abdomen measurement

Size=34”

Circumference Measurements

Vertical Measurements

Front length Measurement

Shoulder Slope Measurement

Full length Measurement

Vertical Measurements

Size=34”

Horizontal Measurement

Across shoulder Measurement

Across Chest Measurement

Abdomen Arc Measurement

Size=34”

Horizontal Measurement

Women’s basic bodices Block

Women’s basic Sleeve Block

KAMEEZ

BLOUSE

CHURIDAAR PYJAMI

BETTED KALIDAR SALWAR

FOUR PANNEL PETTICOAT

SIX PANNEL PETTICOAT

Dart Manipulation is a slash spread and pivotal transfer making

technique to transfer dart excess to one location to another for

design variation .It is a beginning of pattern manipulation for

generating design patterns. It require both artistic and technical

skills to manage and control the pattern.

PRINCIPLE 1

One Dart Series

Two Dart Series

A Dart may be transfer to any

location around the pattern

outlines from the designated

pivotal point without affecting

the size or fit of the garment.

PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullness

To increase garment to an amount

greater then that provided by the

dart excess of working pattern.

The length and the width within

the pattern’s outline must be

increased.

PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring

To fit the contour of the upper torso closer then the basic garment

the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension of

the body above, below and between the bust mounds and shoulder

blades.

Dart Manipulation

SALWAR

KURTA

GARMENTS

HAULTER NECK

BETTED KALIDAAR SALWAR

GARMENTS

CHOLI BLOUSE

SIX PANNEL PETTICOAT

GARMENTS

NIGHT SUIT

BASIC BODICE BLOCK

SAREE BLOUSE

GARMENTS

FOUR PANNEL PETTICOAT

Front view

Side View

Back view

FRENCH DART

SINGLE DART SERIES

Front View Side View

Back View

SINGLE DART SERIES

Mid Shoulder Dart


Back View

SINGLE DART SERIES

Mid Armhole Dart


Back View

SINGLE DART SERIES

Mid Shoulder and Waist Dart


Back View

SINGLE DART SERIES

Mid Armhole and Waist Dart


SINGLE DART SERIES

Side and Waist Dart

Back View


Tuck Dart

Back View


Pleat Dart

Back View

Front View

Radiating Dart

Back View

Neck Radiating Dart


Back View

PARALLEL DART


Back View

PRINCESS PANEL

Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (Waist)


Back View

PRINCESS PANEL

Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (Torso)

Side View

Back View

PRINCESS PANEL

Mid Armhole Princess Panel (Torso)

Front View

Side View

Back View

DART CLUSTERS

Front View

WAIST DART CLUSTER

Side View

Back View

GATHERS

Front View

Gathers at Neck

Side View

Back View

GATHERS

Front View

Gathers at Princess Line

Side View

Back View

Front View

HAULTER NECK LINE

FABRIC MANIPULATION

TRIBAL ART

TRIBAL ART IN GUJRAT