The exhibiting manufacturers and design houses at the Signature Club this year flexed their creative

muscle by presenting new ideas in their collections – and this, despite a lacklustre sentiment in the jewellery market. Their earnest efforts paid off as exhibitors worked around a host of problems – the high price of gold, difficulties in procuring raw material, the fall in the rupee and more.

Rushabh Jain of Trident Corporation, Mumbai, got orders for his 22-karat designer mangalsutras from clients in Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, and Gujarat. “Lightweight mangalsutras in the range of 10 gm to 25 gm are the hottest sellers at the show,” Jain remarked. As always, this year too, he had a new line-up of jewellery that incorporated gokhak (hollow gold beads made in Kolhapur) featuring nakashi work. The antique-style mangalsutras also feature enamelling and bead work.

Signature Club Showcases Design Prowess

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A lavish pink and yellow gold gem-set necklace with an elephant motif by Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers.

Kama Schachter Jewellery Pvt. Ltd. invests a lot of time to research and develop a product line. This year, the company introduced some outstanding 18-karat white and yellow gold openwork cuffs embellished with floral designs accented with diamonds and stylised chand baalis and C-clip earrings that have global appeal. Managing director Colin Shah informed that at times, it takes them up to six months from conceptualisation to fabrication. “This is a show where we test new concepts and receive customer feedback as it helps us prepare for the next IIJS edition. Market trends and the design dynamics keep changing swiftly and it is important to keep our ear to the ground.”

Shah also informed that jewellery in the price bracket of Rs.10,000 to Rs.1 lakh was affected as it was difficult for an average, middle-class buyer to indulge in luxury. The price segment that stayed unaffected was Rs.2 lakh and upward. “Either way, the sentiments

for buying jewellery are not that strong; even the well-heeled are holding back their purchases,” he stated.

Some extraordinary and grand jewellery was showcased at Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers of Jaipur. It introduced several new pieces under its Amer sub-brand Hunar, which celebrates the arts and crafts of Rajasthan. Creative director Yash Agarwal explained that traditional mandnas (chalk decorations) and tevatas (silver tribal jewellery motifs) had got exalted in fine jewellery as did parrots, peacocks and pillar decorations on the forts. The resplendent 18- and 22-karat jewellery articulated in yellow and pink gold (with an allusion to the Pink City of Jaipur) looked every bit royal – from distinguished elephant motifs on rani haars, elephant bracelets, parrot necklaces, to the earrings featuring elaborate jaali (trellis) work.

Shailesh Sangani, owner of Priority Jewels, was happy to receive a steady stream of buyers from across

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The loose diamond and gemstone section registered lower footfalls compared to previous years. However, those who did visit were there

to make serious purchases. Mehul Dungrani, partner, Varni Gems is happy with the response he has got from Signature 2014. “The show has been good for us. We got a huge number of clients from Mumbai followed by Delhi this year. Although, we have not met our usual visitors from Chennai and Bangalore.” Varni Gems deals in small sized diamonds below Rs.65,000 per carat and got a good response for taper and baguette cuts below 20 cents, rose cuts below 20 cents and round brilliant cuts below 7 cents.

Anish Achary of Dimexon admitted that due to Signature’s close proximity to the Bangkok and Hong Kong show, it witnessed fewer international buyers. “The show is pretty laidback, but overall there is some movement in larger goods from 90 points to 1.5 carats in G, H and I colours.”

For Twinkle Diamond Exports Pvt. Ltd., Signature 2014 is better than the previous edition. “There have been enquiries for diamonds from 1 carat to 10 carats in VVS-SI colours,” commented Rushabh Shah, a partner at the firm.

Pinkesh Modi, executive-sales, KP Sanghvi said that though footfalls have been low, serious buyers have made enquiries for dossier diamonds. “Due to the recent reports of undisclosed synthetic diamonds being detected, buyers have become cautious and are approaching companies that enjoy goodwill in the market, which is a plus point for us.”

Multi Future/Excel Overseas Pvt. Ltd., one of the few international booths at the show, was offering a 2% discount as part of their marketing strategy. “There are fewer visitors this year. Those who have approached

us have enquired for 1 carat-plus diamonds. Overall the market is good, though supply is constrained,” said a spokesperson from the firm.

“I have interacted with new visitors from Surat, New Delhi, Kolkata, Bangalore and Hyderabad,” said Ashish Gandhi, director, Osia Gems Pvt. Ltd., who added that the enquiries were for small diamonds below 10 points of VS & SI quality.

Anil Punjabi, partner at Tahilram Tirthdas Jewellers, said that while the first day was fairly good, the second day of the show proved to be better. At his booth, white sapphires in rose cuts saw a large number of enquiries. “We introduced these about eight months ago as an affordable substitute for rose-cut diamonds. When set in jewellery, they look very similar to diamonds, but at one-tenth the cost. Apart from white sapphires, multi-colour sapphires, emeralds and invisible set gems have also received a positive response. Punjabi stressed that there were no international buyers at the show and there was also a drop in domestic buyers as retailers planned to visit the Bangkok and Hong Kong shows.

Mamta Punjabi of Lal Gems had no complaints about the show. “South Sea pearls, tanzanite and white sapphires were moving well. We have also received a positive response for our fancy items like stone-studded bangles, brooches and buttons.”

Abhishek Bhargava of Tank, Jaipur noted that the show has been quite slow. “We received few enquiries, mostly for tourmalines. We participate in all the Hong Kong shows and Baselworld, so our major buyers prefer to meet us there instead of coming to Signature; that seems to be the case this time as well.”

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Cover Story

Fewer Footfalls But Serious Buyers For Loose Stones

cut diamonds and coloured gemstones was received well. Marquise and pears are the hot favourites,” Jain said, adding, “We are happy with the demand, but it could be better.”

CVM’s two new two sub-brands, the Chocolate and the Moon under the famous JUD parent brand, found many takers. Jugal Choksi, partner of CVM, said that although it was too early to comment on the show, the Chocolate line was clearly a winner.

India. The firm had done its homework and cleverly balanced price points and design elements to showcase necklace sets conceptualised with melees, pearls, gemstones, beads and rubies. “Buyers want more value and so, we introduced detachable jewellery. Most of our multi-row necklaces have diamond and gem-set clasps and pendants that can be worn as per the occasion.” Priority also presented a range of ombre-shaded bead and pearl tassel earrings mimicking the current fashion trend of asymmetrical hemlines. Sangani informed that earrings in the range of Rs.1 lakh to Rs.2 lakh were popular, while necklace sets in the Rs.5 lakh to Rs.6 lakh bracket were selling well.

Jitendra Jain, director, KGK Group, was happy with the quality of buyers and according to him, market sentiments were better than last year. The firm had brought in a huge inventory to cater to different segments and price points. “Jewellery set with fancy-

Diamond-studded open cuff by Kama Jewellery.

Necklace from the Chocolate line by CVM.

Detachable multi-row pearl and diamond necklace and asymmetrical tasseled earrings by Priority Jewels.

Uni-Design’s new platinum collection showcases the firm’s versatility to create unique creations with this precious metal. Featured here is a leafy platinum

necklace studded with diamonds and matching earrings that can dress up any outfit. The various platinum love bands symbolise an eternal promise, while the simple yet elegant floral diamond and platinum ring adds sparkle to your day.

Myra, The Diamond Studio of Mumbai presents their latest collection of diamond jewellery that seamlessly blends Indian motifs with European design elements.

Featured here is an enamelled bangle centred on a diamond-studded floral clasp; diamond jhumkis accented with kundan and enamel work; and a contemporary pair of chand baalis studded with diamonds and laced with pearl droplets.

Uniquely

Diamond

Platinum

Studded Jewellery

Mumbai-based Sensuel Jewels’ new mesmerizing collection of fusion jewellery is a passionate blend of luxury, finesse and

elegance. The fresh and vibrant range takes inspiration from the Victorian and Art Deco eras. Rubies, tanzanite, tourmaline, emeralds, full cut and uncut diamonds are patterned to add flamboyance to every piece. Achieving the right balance between modern and traditional, each piece is exclusively crafted to suit every mood.

Fusion Art

4

Brand Watch

SIGNATURE CLUB

Dazzlers

Studded Jewellery

Brand Watch

Fabulous Unrounds showcases the magic and brilliance of fancy cuts in contemporary designs. Featured here is an elegant diamond bracelet with

a rose gold petal flower with a princess-cut diamond in the centre. The same design flows over to the rose gold ring. Radiants, pears and marquise are carefully strung together to make this resplendent necklace, which resembles a waterfall of fancy diamonds.

Bridging the lines between delicate daily wear and heavy bridal wear, Mirella introduces its latest collection of micro pave-set diamond jewellery. Featured

here are open work diamond pendants, floral danglers and white gold bangles and bracelets that can take you from day to night with élan.

Luxurious

Diamond

Decadence

Deluge

Krown Jewels Pvt. Ltd. of Mumbai presents its latest gold jewellery collection that showcases a variety of

textures and colour. Filigree, gold accents, enamelling and various textures add a new dimension to the floral patterns. Encompassing necklaces, bangles and cuffs, the collection entices women with its innovative elements.

GoldenStrokes

Studded Jewellery

SIGNATURE CLUB

GoldJewellery

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Jadau jewellery has been an eternal favourite right since the Mughal era. Krish Jewels of Mumbai showcases its collection of fine jadau

jewellery that can be treasured forever. Right from bracelets, necklaces to rings, the collection beautifully incorporates coloured gemstones and uncut diamonds in floral and paisley motifs. Celebrate history with these timeless jewels.

Timeless

Jadau

Brand Watch

Studded Jewellery

Kiran Jewels (India) is one of the largest jewellery manufacturing houses

in India, and is known for its diamond jewellery that employs an array of fancy-cut diamonds such as rounds, princess, tapered baguettes, marquise and pears. Varun Lakhani, Partner, Kiran Jewels (India) talks about their latest designer collections in basic, bridal, and fashion categories displayed at Signature.

How many collections is Kiran Jewels (India) introducing at Signature this year?We are introducing three high-end fine jewellery lines this time.

What is the inspiration behind the themes? Will they be set with fancy-cut diamonds and colour gemstones? Yes, they will be studded with colour gemstones, as market trends are again veering towards diamonds juxtaposed with colour stones.

How often do you release your new collections in a year?We present our collections twice in a year.

How much time does the design and research team take to bring out each line?We take about 45 days to conceptualise and create the lines.

Which are the markets you cater to for your jewellery?We cater to retailers across India.

How important is Signature for Kiran? The Signature show is very important for us as lot of retailers look up to this show for their respective purchases. Yes, we are growing at a phenomenal rate in percentage terms.

Given the bleak economic conditions in India, what are your expectations from the show?I believe that trade buyers will be more confident and positive this time, and we are expecting a high turnout of domestic buyers at the fair this year.

Sunaina Jain of Adore Jewels, Jaipur, was determined to pursue a career as

a jewellery designer. Her formative years in one of the most prestigious jewellery houses based in the Pink City laid the foundation for her jewellery designing career. There, she not only honed her designing skills but also met her future husband, Sandeep Jain. Together Sunaina and Sandeep dreamt of starting their own jewellery house and in 2003 established Adore Jewels, a jewellery manufacturing, exporting and retail house that supplies jewellery to many companies in Australia, Europe, East Asia, America, the Middle East as well as within the country.

“It’s always nice to be around well-designed jewellery that is bursting with colours,” says Sunaina, who has been designing jewellery for the last 15 years. Drawn by India’s rich arts and crafts heritage and the country’s fascination with jewellery, Sunaina finds her inspiration in vintage Indian jewellery. Even when she designs contemporary pieces for exports, she manages to incorporate some Indian elements.

At the firm, her designs range from traditional kundan-meena and textured and studded gold jewellery, to contemporary silver and gold-plated silver jewellery. “I love working with silver as it gives me immense joy,” says the young entrepreneur-cum-designer. When it comes to gemstones, her designs are bridled with aquamarine and sapphires.

At Signature this year, Sunaina is presenting a unique collection of handmade jewellery inspired by Indian mythology. Using gold-plated silver, the collection is enhanced with gold thewa work. The necklace is enhanced with symbols of Ram, Krishna and Shiva, while the crown-shaped armband is inspired by the ceremonial crowns placed on goddesses. The gold-plated pair of silver earrings titled Shakti, is inspired by the Goddess of Power, while the peacock feathered crown is inspired by Lord Krishna.

Excited about her latest works of art, Sunaina looks forward to gaining a good response for this collection that is close to her heart.

‘I’m Inspired by Vintage Indian Elements’

‘We are 100% Positive About Signature’

Sunaina Jain Adore Jewels, Jaipur

Varun LakhaniPartner, Kiran Jewels (India)

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Design Corner

The HRD launched a jewellery grading lab in Mumbai last November. Could you elaborate on the services that it provides?To increase its reach in the retail sector and enhance its brand visibility, HRD Antwerp has forayed into jewellery certification. We intend to work with top jewellery retailers across the country and facilitate jewellery certificates for high-end jewellery. HRD Antwerp-certified jewellery will stand for the highest quality assurance.

The recent couple of cases where synthetic diamonds have been mixed in parcels of natural stones, has put the Indian diamond industry on edge. How is the HRD’s Mumbai lab equipped to deal with such instances of “diamond doping”? Has the HRD come across similar cases in the country?HRD labs have the latest equipment for the detection of treated and synthetic diamonds. All the diamonds submitted to the lab go through a series of screenings to ensure that they aren’t treated or lab-grown. There should be strict disclosure

‘We Need Strict Disclosure Norms For Synthetics’

GSI Launches Mobilab™ At Signature

Alon MoolemanManaging Director and Country Head – India, HRD Antwerp

norms for synthetics to discourage people from indulging in such practices.

What role can labs play in making synthetic diamond detection easily accessible and allaying any future threat to consumer confidence in diamonds?HRD Antwerp has already introduced two machines – ‘D Screen’ and ‘Alpha Analyser’ – for detection of treated and synthetics. Many diamond manufacturers and traders across the globe have already purchased these machines and are using them extensively to ensure that their stocks are free of synthetics. To help the trade, clients can even make use of screening services offered by our lab at very nominal rates.

Do you feel the need to promote diamond certification at the consumer level?Awareness concerning the importance of diamond grading standards is growing significantly as consumers are gradually starting to prefer diamond certificates from internationally renowned labs. We notice that this change in certification preference and buying behaviour is steadily developing throughout the Indian market which makes it very important to educate consumers about diamond certification.

Does the HRD plan to introduce any more services in India in the near future? In order to fulfil the specific needs of the Indian market, HRD Antwerp recently introduced various new services. These include the removal of laser inscriptions, condition grading (customers can submit single or multiple stones with a predefined colour, clarity, cut as a selection condition) and the screening of diamonds for treatment detection. All of these services are getting a very positive response from the diamond industry.

Any other thoughts that you would like to share with our readers?Looking at the future, HRD Antwerp plans to expand its presence in India with new ventures. We will open a second office, with a showroom for diamond equipment and a drop-off point for diamonds in Surat.

The new team at Mumbai with Rahul Jauhari as commercial director and Siddarth Parui as commercial head jewellery lab will increase commercial efforts towards diamond manufacturers, diamond dealers and jewellers (retail). All these steps will lead to the further strengthening of the HRD Antwerp brand in India.

Interview Of The Day

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Online Buyer-Seller Matching ProgrammeA Buyer-Seller Interface allows exhibitors to preview products and companies and connect with their partners. This interface allows exhibitors to get automatic matches based on their profiles and offers greater convenience in scheduling appointments.

Elite Club Privileged retailers can enjoy several facilities at The Elite Club at Signature 2013. Special mezzanine lounges have been created where select visitors can enjoy a quiet moment, network with industry colleagues, access the internet, and enjoy light refreshments while taking in a bird’s-eye view of the show floor.

Shuttle Bus ServicesBus shuttles will be provided to exhibitors from the official hotels to the venue, from 7.30 am to 10 am. Shuttles to the respective hotels will be available from 5 pm to 8 pm. Buses will be available every 30 minutes.

Cafeteria & Coffee ShopsAll types of vegetarian food, including Jain fare, will be provided at the cafeterias in the exhibition venue. Breakfast, lunch and snacks will be available at all cafeterias and coffee shops on all days. Please note that breakfast will be available from 8 am to 10 am at the cafeterias.

Foot Massage Enjoy a relaxing foot massage by students of the Victoria Memorial School for the Blind. Since 2008, the school has been training visually handicapped people to give therapeutic massages as a means of employment. Rejuvenate your tired feet and lend your support.

First AidBasic First Aid facilities are provided in all the Halls. An ambulance will also be present at the venue outside Hall 1, in case of an emergency.

IDEX KioskThe IDEX Kiosk in Hall 1 enables you checkthe stocks and pricing of all the loose diamondexhibitors at the fair.

Scan the QR code with your smartphone to download the Signature Mobile App. Now receive up-to-the-minute show updates, locate a booth via the interactive floor plan, or connect to the Help Desk – all in a matter of seconds. The Signature Mobile App is available for Android, iPhone and BlackBerry.

Signature 2014 At Your Fingertips

DAILY HIGHLIGHTS

Editorial, Design and Production

www.spentamultimedia.com

The inauguration ceremony was attended by Nitin Khandelwal, a director of the All India Gem & Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF); Dilip Lagu, secretary of Maharashtra Saraf & Suvarnakar Mahamandal; Shantibhai Patel, president of the Gem and Jewellery Trade Council of India (GJTCI); and Ajit Pendurkar, president of the Dadar Saraf Association.

GSI CEO Mark Gershburg said, “Mobilab™ will greatly reduce the cost and turnaround time of the gem identification process, while making it more accessible and attractive to high-volume merchants. Our skilled gemmologists fully understand and have an in-depth working knowledge of how each piece of equipment works and operates, which gives customers an extra level of confidence and additional reason to come back to us.”

SIDELIGHTS

Gemological Science International (GSI), a New York-headquartered independent

gemmological laboratory, introduced a range of professional mobile lab equipment at Signature. Mobilab™ enables access for on-site identification and grading, bringing full-fledged laboratory capabilities to the field.