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Table of Contents

Expert Edition 2

Armhole/Sleevecap (Expert Edition Only) 3

Reshape Curve (Expert Edition Only) 5

Measure Specs (Expert Edition Only) 6

Create Binding (Expert Edition Only) 8

Grading of Binding (Expert Edition Only) 10

Multiple Slash and Spread (Expert Edition Only) 11

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Expert EditionThe Expert Edition of PDS 2000/Silhouette 2000, contains advanced features to speed up yourproduction. These include macros, managers, and charts. There are also advanced tools forworking with pieces. Ask your Gerber Sales Representative about availability and specificfeatures.

What do you want to do?

Add tapered fullness on multiple stacked pieces.

Add parallel fullness on multiple stacked pieces.

Armhole/Sleevecap Modify armhole and update sleevecap simultaneously.

Reshape Curve Change the shape of a curve that spans multiple pieces.

Measure Specs Create a spec sheet with all graded values for a specific model or style.

Create Binding Create binding pieces, such as binding tape for a seam.

Grading of Binding

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Armhole/Sleevecap (Expert Edition Only)AccuMark = New

MicroMark = New

The Armhole/Sleevecap function is used to modify an armhole while updating the sleevecapsimultaneously. Curves that span across multiple pieces for the armhole or the sleevecap can alsobe modified (as with Reshape Curve). The function uses the different Move Smooth functions togive the user control over the affect of the function.

The function options specify whether any individual curve spans multiple pieces, what functionshould be used to modify the armhole, what function should be used to modify the sleevecap, andwhat percentage of the armhole movement should be applied to the sleevecap.

The function can be used without the pieces placed next to each other in the work area, however,it’s easier to see the affect on the curve with the pieces placed together. Define and Use Positioncan be used to place the pieces together.

The function is divided into two sets of prompts. The first set lets the user specify the groups oflines to be modified for the armhole and the second set lets the user specify the groups of lines tobe modified for the sleevecap.

Modifying an Armhole/Sleevecap

1 From the Point menu, choose Modify Points, and then select the armhole/sleevecap function.

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2 Specify which function should be used to modify the first group of points for the armhole in thefunction options area. Check ‘Create Composite Line’ if the curve to be modified spans multiple pieces.Multiple lines on one piece may also be selected for modification.

NOTE: If Move Smooth Line is selected, then the options ‘Move along 1st line’ and ‘Move along 2nd

line’ are used to indicate the clockwise direction of movement around the piece.

3 Select the lines that include the first group of point(s) to be modified for the armhole, end selection tocontinue.

4 Select the first group of points or point to be moved, end selection to continue.

5 Position the thumbtacks at the desired locations to specify the range to be modified, left click tocontinue.

6 Continue steps 1 through 4 for any additional groups to be modified for the armhole.

7 End selection to continue.

8 Repeat steps 1 through 5 to identify the points to modify on the sleevecap. Also, specify a value for ‘%of Distance’ for the amount of the armhole movement that should be applied to the sleevecap.

9 End selection to continue.

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Reshape Curve (Expert Edition Only)AccuMark = New

MicroMark = New

Reshape Curve is used to change the shape of a curve which spans across multiple pieces. Forexample, to change the shape of the armhole of a 4-panel jacket.

The function can be used without the pieces placed next to each other in the work area, however,it’s easier to see the affect on the curve with the pieces placed together. Define and Use Positioncan be used to place the pieces together.

Reshaping a curve:

1 From the Point menu, select Modify Point and then choose Reshape Curve.

2 Select lines in clockwise order to reshape curve. End Selection to continue

3 Select point(s) to move, End Selection to continue. The system will display, “Select lines to reshape inclockwise order, end selection to continue”. The system displays a single set of thumb tacks at bothends of the composite line and displays all of the lines highlighted.

4 Reposition the thumb tacks to establish a blending point, and left click to continue.

5 The cursor is attached to the first point selected if in Cursor mode or the X and Y value input fieldbecomes active if in Value mode. Specify the amount of movement and the pieces are updated.

Currently the endpoints along the composite line that are moved (end of princess and side seams)are moved and blended to the next intermediate point on the princess and side seams.

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Measure Specs (Expert Edition Only)AccuMark = New

MicroMark = New

The regular Measure functions, such as Measure/Line and Distance 2 Point, can be used to create aspec sheet with all of the graded values for a specific model or style.

Creating the measurement template:

A measurement spec template can be created using Notepad to specify the names of all of themeasurement objects. Save the chart in the directory Userroot. Once the file is created and saved,use MS Explorer to change the file extension from .txt to .mct. Using File/Open, retrieve the blankspec sheet into PDS

Creating the garment specs:

1 Open a style or model into a workarea.

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2 In File/Open, change the file type to ‘Measurement Chart’ and retrieve the template.

3 Select a row of cells by clicking the name of the item to be measured.

4 Using any of the Measure functions, take a measurement from one or more pieces. End selection tocontinue. The row of cells is filled in for all sizes.

5 Continue taking measurements until complete.

6 When the style or model is saved, the system also saves the garment spec. Measurement specs are savedwith a .mcp extension.

Opening the garment spec:

1. If a garment spec has been saved with a model or style, it will automatically be opened when the model orstyle is opened. It can be minimized while working. If a chart is CLOSED when making patternmodifications the measurement information will not be updated.Hiding the measurements and dimensioning lines:

1. The function Hide Measurements is used to hide the display of the measurements on the pattern piece inthe work area.Clearing the measurements from the model or style:

1. The function Clear Measurements is used to remove the dimensioning information from the current styleor model.Updating the values in the chart:

1. The names of the measurement objects can be changed, and rows may be inserted or deleted from thechart by using the right mouse button menu in the object name area of the form.

2.

When piece geomerty is modified in PDS, the values in the chart will be updated to reflect thechanges in the measurements. If a chart is CLOSED when making pattern modifications themeasurement information will not be updated.

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Create Binding (Expert Edition Only)AccuMark = New

MicroMark = New

The Create Binding function is used to create binding pieces, such as binding tape for a seam. Thebinding tape is a rectangle, of a specified width, with notches placed along the length to indicateseam positions and notches. Grade rules are generated for the four corners of the rectangle and thenotches so that the binding fits for all graded sizes.

Create a binding:

1 From the Piece menu, choose Create Piece and then select Create Binding.

2 Set the values for the function options.

3 Select the perimeter lines for the binding. The lines can be on different pieces. Some pieces may needto be flipped to the same relative position that they will be in during assembly before lines are selectedEnd selection to continue

4 The system generates the piece and attaches it to the cursor. Place the piece in the work area.

The system creates a rectangle the length of the sum of the selected lines for the base size. Thewidth of the rectangle is the width specified in the ‘Binding Width’ field. Notches are createdalong the length of the rectangle at each seam and notch position. In the illustration below, notchesare created at locations B through G.

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Grading of Binding (Expert Edition Only)AccuMark = New

MicroMark = New

The piece should have the same base size, rule table/size line as the other pieces in thestyle/model.

The differences in the graded line lengths from each end-of-line to the next notch or end-of-linebecomes the X value for each rule. The Y value is always 0.

For the illustration below, the grading at point A is 0,0. For point B, the X growth from size 2 to 4is X=.3, Y=0. The growth from size 4 to 6 is X=.39, Y=0. The grading at point C is compoundedon top of the grading of point B.

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Multiple Slash and Spread (Expert EditionOnly)AccuMark = New

MicroMark = New

Use this function in the Piece menu to add tapered or parallel fullness on multiple pieces. Theinput box is used to enter the fullness amount.

Adding Fullness to a group of pieces:

1 Select all of the pieces to be modified, end selection to continue.

2 Create slash line(s) across all selected pieces, end selection to continue.

3 Select location to hold on the piece which has the beginning of the slash line.

4 Select any internal lines to move, end selection to continue.

5 Enter fullness in Cursor or Value mode.

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Index

A

Armhole/Sleevecap......................................................................................................................................... 3

C

Create Binding ................................................................................................................................................ 8

E

Expert Edition................................................................................................................................................. 2

G

Grading of Binding ....................................................................................................................................... 10

M

Measure Specs ................................................................................................................................................ 6

R

Reshape Curve ................................................................................................................................................ 5

S

Slash and Spread........................................................................................................................................... 11