silwan - the story behind the tourist site

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    Wadi Hilwah Inormation Center

    The Story Behind

    the Tourist Site

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    in the heart o Wadi Hilwah neighborhood as ancient Jerusa-

    lem, and called it City o David.

    Ever since, many archaeologists o dierent nationalities have

    conducted excavations in the area. The locals never initiated

    the excavations, but they were always conducted with respect

    or them, and the residents enjoyed the visits o tourists. In the

    70s Israeli archaeologists began to excavate in Wadi Hilwah,

    led by the renowned Pro. Yigal Shilo.

    Wadi Hilwah 1967 - 1987

    Soon ater the 1967 War, Israel ormally annexed East Jerusalem

    into the municipal borders o Jerusalem. Silwan grew rapidly

    and welcomed many Palestinian reugees rom the 48 and 67

    wars. However, development in Palestinian neighborhoods in

    East Jerusalem was little compared to in other parts o the city.

    Wadi Hilwah in the 70s, looking from Shiloah/Silwan Pool

    Once upon a time, where youre standing

    right now, there was a small valley called

    Wadi Hilwah, part o the large Silwan village.

    Hilwah was the wie o the mukhtarSiyam.

    She was killed during armed clashes in the

    valley. Beore her death, the valley was

    called Wadi Al-Nabah, Valley o Wails. They say that at nights

    one could hear among the hedges o cactuses the wails o the

    innocent girl who was viciously murdered by her brother.

    The Muslim village o Silwan started to develop in the 16th

    century. The village was amous or its quality agricultural pro-

    duce, and served as a resting point on the way to the old city.

    Today the village counts 55,000 people. 5,500 live in Wadi

    Hilwah neighborhood, which lies on the Old Citys southern

    slopes. Here, evidently, is where ancient Jerusalem was estab-

    lished. The Gihon Spring (Ein Silwan) is the reason why peo-

    ple settled on the spur more than 5000 years ago and built the

    city which became holy to the three monotheistic religions.

    Many cultures let their mark on the spurs slopes and valleys

    that set the boundaries o Wadi Hilwah: the Canaanites, who

    established the city and built the impressive underground wa-

    ter system; the Judeans, who expanded the city; the Assyrians,

    who besieged it; the Babylonians, who destroyed it and ban-

    ished its people; the Persians; the Greeks, the heralds o Hel-

    lenism; the Romans; the Byzantines; and nally the Muslims,

    who ruled the city or 1300 years.

    In the 20th century, the villagers lived under our dierent

    rules: Ottoman, British, Jordanian, and, since 1967, Israeli, un-

    der which the Palestinian residents have no citizenship a vul-

    nerable and dangerous status.

    Archaeology

    Archaeological excavations in Wadi Hilwah

    started during the late Ottoman rule. Charles

    Warren discovered the underground water

    system at the close o the 19th century (a site

    known as Warrens Shat), identied the site

    Silwan Village - Wadi Hilwah neighborhood is seen on the slopes of

    the Old City

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    In the 80s, the young residents rustration, ear and resentment

    caused by the state o Israel translated into their participation in

    the frst Intiada, in which Silwan became known or its strong

    involvement. This marked the end o the age o innocence.

    The Israeli Settlement in Silwan

    In the beginning o the 90s, a private organization called Elad

    (El Ir-David, To City o David) started to operate in the village.

    In Elads mission statement it is written that its mission is to

    strengthen the Jewish connection to Jerusalem, and this in the

    means o tours, guidance, populating, and publishing mate-

    rial. In practice, Elad everishly worked to gain ownership o

    houses and lands in the village and particularly in Wadi Hilwah

    neighborhood.

    Guard booth above a settlement house, in the heart of Wadi Hilwah

    neighborhood

    Nevertheless, the 70s and the beginning o the 80s were also a

    period o hope or the village, and especially or the residents o

    Wadi Hilwah neighborhood, which was the closest to the old

    city walls. The village was teeming with visitors. The archae-

    ology attracted many tourists, who the residents welcomed

    heartily: with them came somewhat nancial stability.

    In Haj Musa Hamada Siyams Coeehouse (today, only the en-

    trance sign is let...) one could oten nd local Palestinian resi-

    dents, Israeli archaeologists and tourists sitting together. Also,

    at that time several young Israelis lived in the village and had

    good neighborly relationships with the Palestinians.

    The entrance sign of Haj Musa Hamada Siyams coffeehouse

    Building is Not Permitted!

    During the 80s, the residents started to realize that their status

    as non-citizens was problematic. The municipality did not in-

    vest in the development o East Jerusalem, in the improvement

    o the education system, or in the municipal planning o East

    Jerusalem. Silwan was neglected. Most o the young residentshad to take low-paying jobs. The once pastoral village sunk

    into poverty and neglect. Concerning construction, since 1967,

    not a single building plan has been approved in Wadi Hilwah.

    This means that the residents cannot build or expand their

    homes. As amilies grew, the residents were compelled to build

    without permits. Hundreds o amilies ound themselves in an

    impossible situation. In addition to poverty, a decient edu-

    cation system and poor physical inrastructure, the state also

    turned the residents into criminals who had to pay hundreds

    o thousands o Shekels in nes, and issued demolition orders

    to many homes.

    activestills.org

    activestills.org

    A recently demolished house in Silwan

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    In the rst years, Elad gained control on several additional

    properties in dierent means:

    1. Properties were located by Elad and declared Absentee Prop-

    erty according to adavits written by Elads people. Then

    they were conscated and transerred to Elad without a tender

    and in return or minimal ees. For instance, Abbasis house

    was transerred this way. The court ruled that the house was

    declared absentee property based on a perjured adavit.

    2. Properties owned by the Jewish National Fund beore 1948

    were transerred to Elad without a tender and in return or

    minimal payment.

    3. Purchasing o properties rom local residents using middle-

    men. Residents who knew these men, say that they have used

    dubious means and pressure in order to achieve the deal.

    A special report (Klogman) rom 1992 that was commissioned

    by the state to investigate the methods o property-transer

    in East Jerusalem, showed that some o the means to transer

    properties to the hands o settler organizations who operated

    in East Jerusalem were ineligible.

    By the mid-90s, Elad had managed to transer to its control

    only several properties. The turning point was in 1997, and is

    explained in the next section.

    Ghozlans house - the Ghozlan family, who had rented the house for

    decades, was removed as the JNF rented it to Elad instead

    The Story of a House

    One o the rst houses Elad entered was Musa Abbasis house.

    The house lies next to the amous Warrens Shat. Elads

    ounder, David Beeri, impersonated a tourist guide and gained

    Abbasis trust by bringing groups o tourists to his house. Resi-

    dents riends o Abbasi remember that Abbasi saw in David

    Beeri, who brought tourists to purchase his lemons, a true

    riend. Beeri collected inormation about the property in his

    visits and used it in a legal procedure to declare most o Ab-

    basis house Absentee Property. This means that the legal

    owner lives in an enemy state and that, according to the Absen-

    tee Property Law, the state o Israel can conscate the property

    without compensation. It appears a contract was signed be-

    tween the state and Elad without a tender and without Abbasis

    knowledge, and so, in the dead o night in October 1991, Elads

    people entered the house and removed Musa and his amily.

    Elads people in Abbasis house after the takeover, October 1991

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    Many o the excavations are done rapidly and in a manner that

    archaeologists in Israel and abroad fnd unacceptable. In some

    sites archaeological strata have been removed with no public

    discussion: in Elad-sponsored excavations next to the old city

    walls, skeletons were removed by the Antiquities Authority

    rom tombs rom the Muslim period without the Ministry o

    Religion being notifed, according to the Haaretz newspaper;

    this is ag ainst the regulations o the Antiquities Authority itsel.

    Archaeological excavations are also

    planned and carried out beneath pri-

    vate residences without the residents

    being consulted. In the last couple o

    years, parts o houses have collapsed,

    land has subsided and roads have caved

    in. In one case, the walls o a kindergar-

    ten collapsed next to an excavation. As

    a result the municipality closed-o two

    rooms in the kindergarten but oered no alternative or the

    children. More encouragingly, one o the lateral diggings was

    temporarily stopped as a result o the residents petition to the

    Israeli High Court.

    In contrast to the excavations o the 70s, led by Pro. Shilo,

    which were part o the village and to its benet, todays excava-

    tions are done under a mantle o heavy security: armed guards,

    24-7 surveillance cameras, ences and locks.

    Dozens of security cameras are installed in the neighborhood - some

    intrude on the residents privacy

    Turning Point

    In 1997, Elad received rom the Israeli Land Administration the

    responsibility or the preservation and maintenance o City o

    David national park, which lies in the heart o Wadi Hilwah

    neighborhood, the internationally signicant site o ancient

    Jerusalem. Perhaps that is why the Israeli Antiquities Author-

    ity opposed handing responsibility to Elad, a private body with

    a clear political agenda or the area. Following an appeal to the

    Israeli High Court, the contract with Elad was annulled. How-

    ever, the contract was reenacted in 2002 by the Israeli Parks and

    Nature Authority. Surprisingly, the Antiquities Authority did

    not oppose the move in its second round.

    Archaeology in Elads Era

    Since Elad received responsibility or the national parks man-

    agement, the rate o archaeological excavations has doubled

    and tripled. Mobilizing millions o dollars, Elad initiates many

    controversial excavations that are carried out by the Antiquities

    Authority. It is important to understand that almost all excava-

    tions in Wadi Hilwah are dened as salvage excavations.

    In contrast to excavations licensed and executed by academic

    institutes, salvage excavations are authorized by an internal

    process o the Antiquities Authority in order to rescue and doc-

    ument ndings beore uture construction. In Wadi Hilwah,

    however, building is completely prohibited, and thereore, it

    is not clear under which provision and authority these salvage

    excavations are carried out.

    Excavations are conducted behind fences, security and curtains, which

    stress the estrangement between the residents and the archaeology in

    the village.

    activestills.org

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    Wadi Hilawhs streets are closed off during Jewish holidays

    In contrast, settlers houses in Silwan are strongly connected

    to the tourist site. Security arrangements are shared between

    settlers and site, and tours sometimes include private settlers

    compounds. However unintentionally, visitors to the City o

    David have become an active part o the settlement o East Je-

    rusalem in the eyes o the local residents.

    Soldiers enter a settlers compound as par t of their tour in City of David

    History as Told by Elad

    The City o David is one o the most amous tourist sites in Is-

    rael. More than 400,000 tourists visit the site annually, with

    many Israeli students and thousands o IDF soldiers among

    them. A percipient tourist will probably notice that the ocial

    guides ocus almost exclusively on the King David and Jewish

    periods. Poor signposting in the national park tells the Jewish

    narrative o Jerusalem while neglecting the stories o many

    other cultures whose part in the citys history is no less signi-

    cant than the Jewish one.

    It is worth examining the decision to design an important na-

    tional park in the context o a Jewish heritage while ignoring

    all other cultures. Ironically, ndings that prove unequivocally

    the existence o King David and his city remain to be ound. A

    balanced history would tell a story that relates to most o the

    worlds population: Muslims, Christians and Jews.

    Such a multi-cultural narrative o the chronicles o Jerusalem

    might encourage tolerance and reconciliation in a split and con-

    tested Jerusalem. Instead, today the site is used by Elad as an

    educative tool to promote an agenda o exclusively Jewish set-

    tlement.

    A Visit to a National Park or a Settlement?

    The common visitor to the City o David begins his tour on

    cobbled foors in a closed compound guarded by armed person-

    nel. The tour continues into a closed construction that in part

    emulates a tunnel. In this ashion the tourist is denied contact

    with Silwan, a lively Palestinian village with a pastoral past and

    a troublesome present. Village lie - and the residents - are con-cealed rom the visitors as i they have no signicance. From

    the site guide or the lm, the tourist learns that he is in the his-

    torical City o David.

    The parks design represents a choice to value the interests o

    the past over those o the present inhabitants. The separation

    between the residents and the tourists osters eelings o alien-

    ation and bitterness in the locals. The residents have become

    a disturbing element in the City o David oreigners in their

    own village.

    activestills.org

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    Today the Jewish settlement in Silwan constitutes around 5%

    o the population o Wadi Hilwah. However, the presence

    o these 400 people is endangering the way o lie o Wadi

    Hilwahs residents. While on the one hand many o their hous-

    es are slated or demolition by the municipality, on the other

    Elad initiates numerous projects that limit their living space to

    urther its agenda o changing the demographic reality in Wadi

    Hilwah. Residents eel unwanted and as i they are being sys-

    tematically expelled rom their homes in the name o archaeol-

    ogy, history and Elads crusade or Jewish settlement.

    Behind the scenes o the tourist site live people. They should be

    seen, heard and helped to oppose the injustices they ace.

    The residents o Wadi Hilwah ask the people o Israel and the

    world to support their struggle or the right to live in their vil-lage as part o a multi-cultural Jerusalem based on principles o

    equality and peace.

    National Park: Private Property!

    Elads stewardship o the national park has heralded a new era

    o change in the neighborhood. Ater decades o neglect, the

    authorities have started a project o regeneration undertaken

    without the consultation o local people. The work is carried

    out at the expense o the locals quality o lie and living space.

    Public and private spaces used by residents or hundreds o

    years have been blocked o and incorporated into the national

    park, and the municipality wishes to expropriate those remain-

    ing or public needs. And what are the public needs according

    to the Jerusalem municipality, in a neighborhood where there

    are no playgrounds, no public gardens, no sport acilities, ew

    classrooms and no clinics? Answer: parking lots or the sites

    visitors.

    The neighborhood streets have also been suddenly changing

    their names: Wadi Hilwah street is now City o David As-

    cent. Dozens o security cameras and armed guards have been

    installed in the streets and alleys. Palestinian residents have no

    protection rom the settlers activity in the neighborhood, and

    episodes o increasing violence occur between residents and

    guards who see themselves as law-enorcers.

    An armed guard walks in Wadi Hilwah

    activestills.org

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    Wadi Hilwah Information Center - Silwan

    www.silwanic.net

    Additional InformationHuman Rights in East Jerusalem

    www.acri.org.il/pdf/eastjer2009.pdf

    Alternative Archaeological Tours in Silwan

    www.alt-arch.org

    Video Articles

    ELAD co-funds municipal construction plans in East Jerusalem

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNS6k-TUWzc

    Digging for Trouble - Israel/Palestine

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRNAJCHxa7w

    Articles

    Archaeology in Jerusalem 1967 - 2008

    alt-arch.org/jerusalem.php

    Parks Fortify Israels Claim to Jerusalem

    www.nytimes.com/2009/05/10/world/middleeast/10jerusalem.html?_r=2

    Court orders state to explain construction in Jerusalems Holy Basin

    www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1036990.html

    Islamic-era skeletons disappeared from Elad-sponsored dig

    www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/988803.html

    Elad accused of withholding donor information

    www.haaretz.com/hasen/pages/ShArt.jhtml?itemNo=926546City of David tunnel excavation proceeds without proper permit

    www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/821774.html

    Digging too deep?

    www.jpost.com/servlet/Satellite?cid=1204214000979&pagename=JPost%2FJPArticle%2FShowFull

    Land Lords (concerning the Absentee Property Act) news.haaretz.co.il/hasen/pages/ShArt.jhtml?itemNo=530047

    The very eye of the storm

    www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1076058.html

    New Tensions in Jerusalems Arab Neighborhoods

    www.nytimes.com/2008/12/07/world/middleeast/07jerusalem.html?_r=2&hp

    What Lies Beneath

    www.thenation.com/doc/20080818/hoffman

    Archaeologists for Hire

    www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2008/may/01/archaeologistsforhire

    A Separate Peace

    www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/973870.html