singer 320k2 user manual -...

Singer 320K2 User Manual

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S I N G E R 320K(XubmatijC/ -

S W I N G - N E E D L E M A C H I N E

Straight stitching machineof highest quality

Automatic zigzag machinewith built-in stitchdesigns

Convertible bed for tubularand flat work

-orm K6336(1159) *A Trademark of the SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY

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2 w

THE NEW SINGER CONVERTIBLE AUTOMATIC

iYou can be confident that this extraordinarily versatile machine is built with the expert care andknowledge that have made SINGER the best-known and respected name in sewing machines theworld over for more than a century. With it you can do beautiful ornamental stitches automatically !This amazing machine will speed through your straight sewing and then, by simply raising one or

more levers, you can do decorative stitching in no more time or with no more effort than it takesto do straight stitching.

The 320 K has all of the conveniences of built-in stitches, yet all of the versatility of interchangeableChange the Disc on the front of the machine and you have added not one but many new

Designs are simply controlled by single lever operation or by the use of a combinationDiscs,stitches,of levers.

-IThe convertible bed enables you to sew articlesof a curved or cylindrical shape and flat work withequal facility. The tubular bed is quickly con-verted to a flat bed by adding the Flat WorkTable, shown here. The two push buttons Arelease the Flat Work Table for removal whenthe tubular bed is required.

*110« * ‘

*1 A

£27995J

Machine 320K withFlat Work Table Attached


3

tSINGER SERVICE

Wherever you go you will find expert, dependable SINGER* Service close at hand. SINGER isinterested in helping you keep your SINGER Sewing Machine in top running condition. That iswhy you should always call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE if your machine ever requires adjust-ment or repair. When you call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE you can be sure of obtainingthe service of a trained SINGER repair man and can be assured of warranted SINGER* partswhen needed! Look for the famous red "S” Trade Mark on your SINGER SEWING CENTREand the ever ready SINGER Service Car.

X

IEVERYTHING FOR THE WOMAN WHO SEWS

The answer to your sewing needs is at your SINGER SEWING CENTRE. There you will find awide choice of sewing necessities and notions, sewing instructions and guidance and services forcovering buttons, hemstitching, making belts and buckles, to mention a few. Look in your telephonedirectory under SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY.

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i4ADVANCED FEATURES OF THE SINGER 320K

6. ROTARY MOTION sewing hooksmooth, quiet performance.

7. FULL VISION BOBBIN CASE facilitatesremoval and replacement. Time-saving,extra capacity round bobbin.

8. GRADUATED TENSION — within a singleturn, needle thread tension is regulatedfor type of fabric, thread and stitching.

9. REVERSIBLE FEED for sewing eitherforward or backward —easy to back stitchand fasten ends of seams.

10. STITCH LENGTH INDICATOR withfingertip regulator.

11. SMOOTH, SEAMLESS THROAT PLATESensure snag-free performance.

12. PERFECT CONTROL whether sewing athigh or low speeds, the pick-up and stopare quick and effortless.

13. LIGHT illuminates working area—preventseye strain, lamp easily renewed.

14. ONE- WAY NEEDLE CLAMP makes italmost impossible to place needle in clampincorrectly.

1. SIMPLICITY—makes machine easy tooperate.

2. V E R S A T I L I T Y — produces beautifulstraight stitching, zigzag and automaticdecorative stitching.

assures

3. CONVERTIBILITY—can be used as aflat bed machine or as a tubular bed ma-chine for stitching articles of a curved orcylindrical nature. See pages 90 to 107for Tubular Bed applications.

4

4. AUTOMATIC STITCHES—By means oflevers—scallops, blind stitched hems, de-corative designs, simple mending areautomatically accomplished. An amazing

A

number of lovely designs result from usinga combination of levers. For a greater

more than youvariety of stitch designshave ever thought possible —merely changethe disc.

i5. TWIN NEEDLE STITCHING can be doneby using the SINGER Twin- Needle, espe-cially sturdy and accurate because the twoneedles are bonded in metal.

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1


5IELECTRICAL INFORMATION

The SINGER* Electric MotorXis located at the back of the machine, and canbe supplied for operation on alternating ordirect current. Orders must state thecatalogue number of the motor, or thevoltage, and in the case of alternating current,the number of cycles.

i Before Inserting Electric Plug —be sure that voltage and number of cyclesstamped on motor nameplate are within rangemarked on electric meter installed by electricpower company.i

Electrical Connections for MachinePush 3-pin safety plug A, Fig. 1, into 3-pinterminal block at right of machine and connectplug at other end of oord to electric outlet.

Speed ControllerThe speed of machine is regulated by amountof pressure on foot controller or knee con-troller. Fig. 1. ElectricalConnection for Machine


6 f

AUTOMATIC STITCHING

tTwenty-five addit ional Discs are furnished withthe machine. Each of these Discs is inter-changeable with the one on the front of themachine. With each disc, a new variety ofcombinations can be produced, through theuse of one or more levers.

When all st i tch levers, shown in Fig. 2, areat their lowest posit ion and the bight controllever T, Fig. 26, in “0” posit ion, highestquali ty straight sti tching is done.

An amazing number of lovely useful st i tchesare produced automatically when you raiseone or more of the sti tch levers.For the most attractive of these combinationdesigns not more than three levers should beused.

Attached to the outside of the machine is theBlind Stitch disc, which is engaged by the firstlever.

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Fig. 4. Blind Stitch Disc No. 3Fig. 3. Stitch Lever Ein "Up” PositionFig

. 2. Stitch LeversI


7I

AUTOMATIC STITCHING

l Five automatic stitch designs are built into the machine. Merely lift the designated lever toproduce the stitch indicated on the lever. The maximum width of the stitch is achieved whenbight is set at 5. Narrower designs result from setting the bight at less than 5. An almost zerostitch length gives a solid design, while a longer stitch length gives an open pattern. Twin needlestitching is done at 3 bight or less.Zigzag Point—Lever D

Applique of bandsor lace

Decorative applique

Zigzag—Lever AFor: Buttonholes

Sewing buttonsReinforcing seamsHairline seamsCording seamsInvisible seams on lace

AppliqueSatin stitchScript stitchShadow appliqueSatin stitch scallop

For: Decorative edgingDecorative borderi

MMMNNNlBall—Lever EFor: Motif designsBorder designsDecorative applicationsMonograms

V Multiple Stitch Zigzag—Lever B / Vy' \For: Reinforcing

PatchingMendingDecorative stitching

Overlapped seamsAbutted seamsElastic seamsBinding blankets innnnniBlind Stitch—Disc 3I For: Hems

FacingsZippersOveredging seams and facingsDecorative stitchingApplying bands and lace

%Scallop—Lever C SFor: Faced scallops

Decorative stitching

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lNOTE: To change the direction of pattern produced by Discs 5, 10, 15, 16, 17 and 18the disc on the shaft. , reverse

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8

AUTOMATIC STITCHING

Twenty-five additional Discs are included with this machine. (Discs 14 and 19 are built intothe machine as Levers D and E, respectively, and produce designs as shown on page 7.) The 25additional discs produce the following designs:

Three Step (18)

Curved Mending (20) \ / \ /Thunderbird (21)-Semaphore (22)

Solid Pyramid (23) —Open Pyramid (24) — /\/\/\/\/\/\/Spiny (25)—Block (26) —Fagoting (27)

Comb (28)—Pavilion (29)

Platform (30)

Arrowhead (5) ^ ^ JH*J"\A»AIAIAIADomino (6)A A A A/ \ / \ /Shell Edge (7) ' V—/ V ySolid Scallop (8) —

Icicle (9) —Banner (10)

Key (11) —Walls of Troy (12)

Solid Diamond (13)

* L-WN/X/NNJN/Nwnwrwnwriwr^

1m

\VvWv\VAWvYv\YALong Oblique (15) *•*

Shingle (16)\\..-- v-

AAA/WWViAAA/’ tm mI I !m m m m mi \ i i / » i \ i \

f HW M M M WV IMPennant (17)

Crescent (31)


3

9iCOMBINATION STITCHES

( With Levers)

The following stitches result from using at one time two or more of the levers which engage thebuilt-in Discs:

Levers A and B Levers B and E

A

Levers A and C Levers C and E

iLevers A and D Levers D and E

71Levers A and E Levers A, C and E */" /1

Levers B and C Levers B# C and D

Levers B and D Levers B, D and Eb


10

COMBINATION STITCHES(With Levers and Disc) i

The following stitches are produced by using at the same time one or more of the levers whichengage the built-in Discs and Discs 5 or 6:

rrmLever A, Disc 5 Levers B and E, Disc 5

Lever B, Disc 5 Levers A, B and E, Disc 5®|gggg

\Lever A, Disc 6Lever E, Disc 5

Lever B, Disc 6Levers A and B, Disc 5

Lever D, Disc 6 iLevers A and E, Disc 5I mmm warn m

Levers A and E, Disc 6Levers B and D, Disc 5


11

COMBINATION STITCHES( With Levers and Disc)

£The following stitches are produced by using at the same time one or more of the levers whichengage the built-in Discs and Discs 7, 8, 9 or 10:

Lever A, Disc 7 Levers A and D,Disc 7

iLever B, Disc 7 Levers B and C,Disc 8

rTTTTT'P n||1iLever C, Disc 7 Levers B and D, Disc 8

wwmw' . . .. . .... • - .... a i . * . . . - . . . . . . 4 4Lever D, Disc 7 Levers B and D, Disc 9

Lever E, Disc 7 Lever A, Disc 1 0• : m J

4 ,g..% . . , .nrrrirTTTnrn*Mi®i i; :

. _ • 1m iit IF rr nsLevers A and B, Disc 7 Levers D and E, Disc 10

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12

COMBINATION STITCHES(With Levers and Disc)

The following stitches are produced by using at the same time one or more of the levers whichengage the built-in Discs and one of the discs numbered from 11 to 21:

fLever A, Disc 17Lever D, Disc 11

1

Levers A and E, Disc 1 8Lever A, Disc 1 2

Lever A, Disc 20Lever A, Disc 1 3

mwwwwwvLever A, Disc 21Lever E, Disc 1 5

Lever B, Disc 21Lever E, Disc 1 6Jc


13i

COMBINATION STITCHES( With Levers and Disc)

The following stitches are produced by using at the same time one or more of the levers whichengage the built-in Discs and one of the discs numbered from 21 to 30’

Lever D, Disc 21 Lever D; Disc 26J

^mtYWTYmYYYWYmtrin Lever E, Disc 21 Lever A, Disc 29r

Lever E, Disc 22 Lever A, Disc 30

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Lever B, Disc 25 Lever B, Disc 30•f

WVVVVYYYVVriLever A, Disc 26 Lever D, Disc 30


14

TWIN NEEDLE DECORATIVE ST ITCHING

"CrThe following sti tches are produced by using one lever at a time or one of the Discs as listed,bight is l imited to 3 and the sti tch length is set between 25 and 0. The satin sti tch foot is used forclosed designs. Scalloping and running sti tches are done with the general-purpose presser foot :

The

Disc 5Lever A

Disc 6Lever B1 HMHMMHj

*&&&**&*•"-* W

Lever C Disc 7gBBBaaafflffi a&am&ga:

Disc 8j*

Lever D

MM mmri:/Lever E Disc 9

WU WM

m- -^>M<

Disc 3 Disc 10

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15

TWIN NEEDLE DECORATIVE STITCHING

-Y - The following sti tches are produced by using one or more levers and one Disc at the same time aslisted. The bight is limited to 3 and the sti tch length is set between 25 and 0. The satin sti tch footis used for closed designs and the scalloping and running sti tches are done with the general-purposepresser foot.

Levers A and D Lever A, Disc 6

Levers A and E Lever D, Disc 6

i 111 mvLevers B and C Lever B, Disc 7

Levers A, C and E Lever D, Disc 7lii

'M'.Lever E, Disc 5 Lever A, Disc 1 0

Levers A and B, Disc 5 Levers D and E, Disc 1 0y


16 V

FABRIC, THREAD, NEEDLE AND STITCH LENGTH CHART

MACHINE STITCH SETTINGSFOR STRAIGHT SEWINGTHREAD

SIZESNEEDLE

SIZESTYPES OF FABRICS TOPINSIDESEAMS STITCHING

50 Embroidery100 Cotton

50 SilkNylon Thread

Filmy materials comparable to Net, Marquisette, Chiffon,Silk and Chiffon Velvets, Voiles, Ninon 15 to 209 15 to 20

50 Embroidery80 to 100 Cotton

50 SilkNylon Thread

Sheer materials comparable to Lawn, Dimity, SyntheticSheers, Paper Taffetas, Pure Silks, Gossamer Silks, Silk orSynthetic Tricots,Synthetic Velvets,Satins

15 to 2011 1 2 to 15

Lightweight materials comparable to Gingham, Cham-bray, Pique, Poplin, Percale, Cretonne, Chintz, Faille, Benga-line, Wool Flannel,Wool Jersey, Wool Crepe, Cotton Velvetsand Velveteens, Lightweight Suitings

1450 Mercerized60 to 80 Cotton

50 Silk15 to 1 812or

16

Heavy Duty Mer.40 to 60 CottonNylon Thread

Medium heavy materials comparable to Corduroy,Crash,Gabardine, Rep, Heavy Suitings and Coatings 1216 10

30 to 40 CottonThread

Heavy materials comparable to Sailcloth, Denim, Ticking,Overcoatings

1018 8

50 EmbroideryNylon Thread

50 Mercerized1211 or 14 10Plastic materials

When ordering needles, always specify "Class and Variety 206 x 13” and state the size and quantity required.See page 43 for ordering TWIN NEEDLES.


17r

NEEDLES AND THREAD

4 This machine uses a 206x13 Needle—available in Sizes 9, 11, 14, 16 and 18.

For best stitching results, thread should beselected according to fabric to be stitched. Needlemust be of correct size for thread to pass freelythrough eye of needle. Select correct needleaccording to table on page 16. Be sure thatneedle is not blunt or bent.NOTE: Thread breakage is sometimes caused byvariations in the diameter of thread. Such break-age is overcome by using the next size largerneedle.Use like threads for needle and bobbin. Do notuse silk on bobbin and mercerized thread inneedle, or vice versa.

LONG GROOVETOWARD YOU

TO SET THE NEEDLE

Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen needle clamp thumb screw B, Fig, 5.Insert needle into clamp as far as it will go withflat side to the back and long groovetoward you. Then tighten thumb screw B.

*

Fig. 5. Set Needle, Flat to Back ,Long Groove Toward You


18

U P P E R T H R E A D I N G —S I N G L E N E E D L ERaise take-up lever 5 to its highest point.Place thread on spool pin and hold with right hand.Lead thread into self-threading guide 1 from under side,Down and from right to left behind or in front of centretension disc 2 (Centre disc separates threads for twinneedle sewing.)Into the loop of the take-up spring 3,Under the slack thread reg’ulator 4,Up and from right to left through hole in take-up lever 5,Down through guides 6 and 7 on face plate,Into guide 8 on needle clamp,From front to back through eye of needle 9.Draw about two inches of thread through eye of needlewith which to start sewing.

*

8

9

Fig. 7. Threading Tension Fig. 8. Threading Needle fromFront to BackFig. 6. Upper Threading m


19

TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN

lowest point.P iever to itsBring take-u

3. Open bobbin case latch C.

tFig. 11

4. Lift case and release latch to remove bobbin.2. Swing open the hinged bed cover.


1. Place bobbin on bobbinwinder spindle and turn untilpin enters slot in right side ofbobbin.

2. Lock bobbin in place bypressing bobbin winder down-ward until latch D engages.

machine and pass thread down and from left to rightunder tension F on bed. Lead thread up to bobbin andthread from inside, through slot in left side of bobbin G.


21J

i Allow tension discs F, Fig. 14, to controlflow of thread so that it winds on bobbin inuniform, level rows. Do not guide or holdthread when winding bobbin.

The bobbin winder will stop automaticallywhen the bobbin is filled. When less than a fullbobbin is desired, lift latch D. Remove bobbinfrom spindle and retighten screw J, Fig. 15.

4. Hold hand wheel H with left hand, andwith right hand, loosen stop motion screw Jto release hand wheel from stitching mecha-nism as shown above.

NOTE: If bobbin does not wind evenly, loosenscrew which holds tension bracket F inposition and move bracket to the left if bobbinwinds high on the right ; move bracket to theright if bobbin winds high on the left. Whenbracket is properly centered, thread will windevenly across bobbin. Retighten tensionbracket screw.

*5. Hold end of thread and press controllerpedal as for sewing. End of thread must beheld until it breaks off.

Bobbin can be wound while machine is sewing.

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22

TO REPLACE BOBBIN CASETO THREAD BOBBIN CASE

I\\r\ \IE, PJFl3ft I

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(OS***'

171. Hold bobbin so that thread will unwind indirection shown.Hold bobbin case as shown above and placebobbin into it.

Fig. 203. Grasp bobbin case between left thumb andforefinger at latch hinge point as shown.Tilt right edge of bobbin case slightly to en-gage post. 7

k2. Pull thread into slot K, under tensionspring L and into slot M at end of spring.Allow about three inches of thread to hangfree from bobbin case.

4. Release bobbin case and press forefingeragainst bobbin case until it snaps in place asshown.


It 23

F O R G E N E R A L- P U R P O S E S T I T C H I N GThis SINGER Class 320K machine comesequipped with five buil t-in sti tch designs, oneremovable Disc, a General-purpose ThroatPlate 173303, and a General-purpose HingedPresser Foot 105250. This throat plate and

presser foot have theaccommodate the swing of the needle,the equipment listed below, the machineperform straight, zigzag or open ornamentalst i tching.

same wide opening toWith

can

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o© o Fig. 24. General-purpose

Hinged Presser Foot1 3 4 5 6 7 8r oJ

E27996

Fig. 23.General-purpose Throat Plate with guidelines for seam width gauged from centreof needle hole and cross lines for gaugingsquare corners.

Fig. 25. Stitch LeversA, B, C, D, EFig. 22. RemovableFASHION Disc.i

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24

T O P R E P A R E F O R S E W I N G

ZIGZAG STITCHING—Set bight lever asdesired between 1 and 5 as shown in Fig. 28,and lift Zigzag Lever A, as shown in Fig. 29.

STRAIGHTSTITCHING—Set needle posi-tion lever S and bight lever T as shown inFig. 26. Set stitch levers in downward posi-tion, as shown in Fig. 27.

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25*

T O P R E P A R E F O R S E W I N G (c o n t i n u e d)

g/ *£5«naI!

li1|--4 sU-

/cif

:4I§|? O'v?3If'

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32Fig . 31

2. Pull up needle thread and bobbin threadwill come with it, as shown in Figs. 30, 31and 32.

3. Lay both threads backunder presser foot diagonallyacross feed to the right or leftdepending upon which side ofthe needle the material is to belocated. See Fig. 33. Whenthe presser foot is lowered thethreads will be firmly held be-tween the feed and the presserfoot.

1. Hold end of needle threadwith left hand and turn handwheel toward you until needlegoes down and up again, andtake-up lever returns to itshighest point.

— J :/ \ 1 !\: *£» s1 * V «s I las jU;

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Fig. 33

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26

TO REMOVE THE WORKTO START SEWING

riL$2§LT "II

1. Bring take-up lever toits highest point. Place ma-terial under presser foot.2. Position needle in thefabric.

fh. cm i

Fig.-34

'w--'11 / r rr.3. Lower foot. Hold threadswhich have been drawn tothe back toward the rightunder the foot. Press con-troller pedal to start ma-chine. The speed dependsupon the amount of pressureon the controller pedal.

i *4\mrc,K

4. Stop machine wTith take-uplever at its highest point.5. Raise foot, draw fabric towardthe back and left and severthreads on thread cutter.

Spill

Fig. 35


27

TO GUIDE AND SUPPORT MATERIAL

To avoid uneven tension, length of stitchingand distorted seams, never pull the ma-terial when sewing. Never operate themachine without material under the presserfoot.

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Fig. 39. Supporting Miracle FabricsSynthetic fabrics such as nylon, and blendswith rayon, puffed weaves, sheers, jersey andtricot which by their nature require light pres-sure, require support while stitching. Thissupport is given by holding the material taut inback and in front of the foot as the machinestitches and assures a smooth even seam, asshown above.

Fig. 38. Guiding Material While Sewing

Most materials require only guiding for bestsewing results, as shown above.


28

TO REGULATE LENGTH OF STITCH

Straight Stitching—The numerals on theleft of the stitch indicator scale denote theapproximate number of stitches per inch.Zigzag Stitching—The lengthwise distancebetween needle penetrations is controlled bythe stitch regulator.

To Reverse the Direction of Feed —Tofeed the material toward you, raise the leverQ, Fig. 40 as far as it will go. The machinewill then stitch in a reverse direction, thusmaking it easy to "back stitch” and to fastenends of seams.

STITCH LENGTH FOR SATIN STITCHING

Fig. 40.Stitch Length RegulatorTo lengthen stitch, loosen limit screw Renough to allow top of stitch regulator leverQ to he lowered just below number desired.Turn limit screw R until top of stitch lever Qrises to setting desired.

Fig. 42. Satin StitchingSatin stitching, Fig. 42, is done with stitchregulator lever Q set between 25 and 0position and with the Satin Stitch FootFig. 41.

Stitch Foot


29

SATIN STITCHING— { Continued ) TO START AT GIVEN PLACE IN A DESIGNStitch on a scrap of material until that pointin the design is reached which is to be repro-duced. Remove scrap from under the foot.

While stitching on a scrap of material, setstitch regulator lever at 25, then carefully andslowly turn limit screw R until stitches areplaced closely together, allowing material tofeed smoothly and evenly without irregularity.\

The exact setting of the stitch length forclosed satin stitching will vary with the tex-ture of the fabric, the amount of needle andbobbin thread tension, and with the operatordepending upon whether she holds the fabricfirmly or lightly. A light tension and light evenhandling are recommended for satin stitching.Foot 105251 provides a channel for satinstitching and gives smooth uniform results.

Fig. 44Loosely woven or soft fabrics give best resultswhen backed with crisp lawn. This backing iscut away close to the stitching when work iscompleted. Place work under needle. Position needle,

hold thread ends, drop presser foot and stitch.This procedure is recommended for scallopingand precise design stitching with all Discs.

Where satin or design stitching is to be doneon a single thickness of the garment, a backingis essential on most fabrics.


30

BIGHT CONTROLSTRAIGHT STITCHING only is done withstraight stitching presser foot 105248, Fig. 46, andthroat plate 161242, Fig. 45. For straight stitchingwith these fittings, set needle position lever S incentral position, bight lever T at "0” and all stitchlevers in "down” position.

ZIGZAG AND STRAIGHT STITCHING aredone with general-purpose throat plate 173303,Fig. 48, and general-purpose presser foot 105250,Fig. 49, or any of the special feet which have a wideopening. For Zigzag Stitching, lift lever A and setbight control lever T at 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, depending uponthe width of stitch desired. Needle position lever Smay be set at right, left or centre, as shown in Fig. 49A.

i£ 27996

To lock bight lever T for straightstitching bring "0” mark W

Fig. 49opposite indicator V, loosenM A X I M U M B I G H T S T O P Fig. 49ASCREW X, then retighten. Loosenand move intermediate bightregulator screw U until it en-gages the notch, then retighten.

AUTOMATIC STITCHING requires the same throatplate and presser feet as for zigzag stitching.Levers B, C, 1), FI or any of the added Discs maybe used. In addition combinations of levers maybe used to produce an unlimited variety of com-bination stitches.

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\ 31

sI N T E R M E D I A T E B I G H T R E G U L A T O RSCREW U, Fig. 51, acts as an intermediate spring-stop for a desired minimum bight. This spring-stopcan be passed over to zero bight if desired.

I

'A\These stops allow you to operate the bight levermanually between set positions without continualreference to the dial while sewing. For example: Tolimit zigzag stitching between "1” and "4”, set bightlever at "4”, loosen MAXIMUM BIGHT LEVERSTOP SCREW X, then tighten. To set minimumposition "1”, set bight lever so that arrow V is at "1”,loosen INTERMEDIATE BIGHT REGULATORSCREW U and

U

\ o

/w\ move it up or down until you feel the

notch engaged, then tighten screw U. The bight leveris now set to limit the maximum bight at "4” and theminimum at "1”. Other limits such as "1” and "3”or "2” and "3” can be obtained in the same manner,see Fig. 51.

Fig. 50 Fig. 51BIGHT LEVER T, Fig. 50, regulates the width ofzigzag stitch or stitch pattern.

BIGHT SCALE is marked "0” to "5”. Each linebetween "0” and "5” denotes the width of stitch pat-tern obtainable up to a maximum of approximately% inch.BIGHT INDICATOR. Arrow V is the mark towhich the desired point on the bight scale is set.ZERO BIGHT indicates setting for straight stitching.MAXIMUM BIGHT. The machine will sew themaximum width of stitch or stitch pattern when bightlever is set at "5”, approximately ^6 inch.MAXIMUM BIGHT STOP SCREW X restrictsthe movement of the bight lever to a maximum widthof stitch less than 5 when set at a given position.

IWhen free movement of the bight lever is desiredbetween zero and a given bight, screw U should bemoved down as far as it will go and then securelytightened. Screw X is used to limit the maximumbight.CAUTION: When Straight Stitching Throat Plate161242 and Straight Stitching Presser Foot 105248 areused, bight lever T must be set at 0, needle mustbe set at central position, and all stitch leversmust be down.Do not make any zigzag stitch, needle positionor stitch lever adjustments while needle is inmaterial.

I*•


32

NEEDLE POSITION CONTROLI

RIGHT

CENTRAL

'iZi-A!'-.

Fig. 54AFig. 54Fig. 53 Fig 53AFig. 52 Fig. 52AWhen needle position lever S isset to the left on the dial, asshown in Fig. 52, the machinesews at the extreme left forstraight stitching and, as thebight is changed from "0” to"5”, the needle swings fromthe extreme left, as shownin Fig. 52A for zigzagging.

When needle position lever Sis set at the central position, asshown in Fig. 53, and as thebight is changed from " 0 ” to" 5,” the needle swings equallyto the left and right of centre,as shown in Fig. 53A.

When needle position lever Sis set to the right, as shownin Fig. 54, and as the bight ischanged from " 0 ” to " 5,”the needle swings from theextreme right, as shown inFig. 54A.

CAUTION: Left needle position, right needle position and stitch levers in "up”position are used only with the all-purpose throat plate, for straight stitching as well as zigzagstitching.Raise needle out of fabric before changing positions of bight control , needle positionand stitch levers.


33l

T O C H A N G E D I S C SRaise needle out of material. Place new Disc on shaft so that pin A2 engages

at slot B2.Replace nut Y and tighten securely. To avoidvariation in sti tching, Disc must be held inposit ion firmly.Set bight and needle posit ion levers to desiredsett ings and proceed as for regular sewing.

Set st i tch levers in “down” posit ion.

Remove knurled nut Y.

Grasp edges of Disc Z and draw it off shaft.

1

iFig. 56. Step 2. Changing DiscFig. 55. Step 1. Removing Knurled Nut


34

TO REGULATE PRESSURE ON PRESSER FOOT

The amount of pressure influences the easewith which you achieve a straight seam anduniform stitching. The pressure should beheavy enough to prevent side creepage ofmaterial and light enough to carry the materialwithout marking.

The surface finish on fabrics, as well as theirweight, determine amount of pressure to beapplied. The glazed surface of chintz and pol-ished cotton, the loose nap surface of satin,the deep piled surface of velvet, the delicateand broken surface of lace and brocade, allrequire a lighter pressure.

To set a light pressure, turn thumb screwA2, Fig. 57 upward until fabric moves easilyunder presser foot without slipping and with-out showing feed marks.

To set a heavy pressure, turn thumb screw A2downward until the fabric moves easily andthe seam edges are carried evenly by the footand the feed. Heavy, spongy fabrics like towel-ing, chenille, coating, etc., require heavierpressure.

KSI°%mf \\JiIi : !|@! I

% /

I I fdFig. 58

Thumb ScrewAdjusted for

Heavy PressureThumb ScrewAdjusted for

Light Pressure


35*TO REGULATE PRESSURE ON PRESSER FOOT

I -s S3 Ats* _I_

*7ya

i

Medium HeavyV


36

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

Thread Tensions for Straight StitchingFor perfect stitching, the tension on needleand bobbin threads must be heavy enough topull threads to centre of material and make afirm stitch.

To Regulate Needle Thread TensionThe tension on needle thread can be testedonly when presser foot is down.

.. y\V\\V\\,y k\vm^7rT77777mM^v\

The numerals "0” to "9” on dial B2 indi-cate different degrees of tension that can beobtained. The higher the number the greaterthe tension. The numbers do not denote sizeof thread.

When tension has been correctly set for aver-age sewing, note number at indicator line C2.This setting may be quickly regained shouldthe tension be altered for special work orchange in size of thread.


37

N E E D L E T H R E A D T E N S I O N (c o n t i n u e d )

In the unbalanced tensions of Fig. 59, theneedle thread lies straight along top side ofmaterial, caused by too heavy tension onneedle thread.

LVJ

U9q

In the unbalanced tensions of Fig. 60, thebobbin thread lies straight along under side ofmaterial, caused by too light tension on needlethread.

Fig. 60. Needle ThreadTension Too Loose

m-Ni

38

T O R E G U L A T E B O B B I N T H R E A D T E N S I O N

The tension on bobbin thread is regulated bythe larger screw nearest the centre of the ten-sion spring, as shown in Fig. 61.

When adjusting bobbin thread tension, a slightturn of the screw is all that is needed to makea fine adjustment, because the full range oftension from zero to a maximum is madewithin 114 turns of tension regulating screw.

To increase tension, turn this screw graduallyover to the right.To decrease tension, turn this screw graduallyover to the left.

39

B O B B I N T H R E A D T E N S I O N (c o n t i n u e d )

Wind bobbin withsilk thread .

a 50 yard spool of fine

Thread bobbin caseand adjust tension sothat weight of bobbincase with a bobbin of50 yards of fine silkwill cause the case toslide slowly, when helds u s p e n d e d b y t h ethread. See Fig. 63.

big .62 , Bobbin ThreadTension Too Tight

For correct tension,its downward move-ment should be veryslow .

Balanced TensionsFig.63


40

N E E D L E T H R E A D T E N S I O N

Soft fabrics should bebacked with crisp lawnor organdie to preventcording and the dialshould be set at 2 or less,as shown in Fig. 66.

Satin StitchingSatin stitching and solid, closed design stitch-ing require a lighter needle thread tensionthan for straight stitching or open designstitching.

Wide satin stitching re-quires the lightest sewT-ing tension. Set the ten-sion dial so the indica-tor line is between 0 and2, as shown in Fig. 64.

At "0” there should be a very slight pull onthe thread to indicate there is a minimumtension.

U ..a

mggass£2ES5BE5

For n a r r o w e r s a t i nstitching, slightly moretension may be used. Setthe dial between 2 and 4,as shown in Fig. 65. Fig. 68.Smooth Satin

Stitching Producedwith correct

tension

Stitching resultingfrom excessive

tension


41

SHOULD IT BECOME NECESSARY TO REMOVEAND DISASSEMBLE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

Turn thumb nut E2 to the left (counter-clockwise)until "0” on dial G2 stops at centre line on indicatorL2. To separate pin F2 in thumb nut E2 from dial

G2, press in dial, unscrew thumb nut and remove it.Then remove tension parts from stud N2, as shown inFig. 69. Do not remove stud N2.

TO REASSEMBLE AND REPLACE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

Make sure that tension releasing pin R2 is in place instud N2. Replace the tension parts on the stud N2 asfollows: Replace the three tension discs M2 with thethick flat disc separating the convex surfaced discs.Then replace the indicator L2, open side out, on studwith plus and minus signs at top, then insert tensionspring K2 in indicator with the first (half ) coil of thisspring straddling the lower half of the stud. Place stop

washer on stud with extension J2 above stud, so thatit clears the first (half ) coil of tension spring. Next,place dial G2 on stud with No. 2 opposite stop washerextension J2, then push dial to compress tensionspring and at the same time screw thumb nut E2 onstud, inserting pin F2 on nut in one of the holes indial G2. Then lower presser bar and turn thumb nutE2 to left until '0’’ on dial G2 stops at centre line on

indicator L2. Thread the tension andpull thread through tension discs totest amount of tension on thread at"0” position.At this point there should be a slightpull on the thread to indicate thatthere is a minimum tension whichgradually increases with the turningof thumb nut E2 to the right, pro-viding a full range of tensions withone revolution of the thumb nut. Ifthe pull is too strong for a minimumtension, press in dial G2 to disen-gage pin F2 on nut from dial, and

02 P2 Q2

Fig. 69. Needle Thread Tension Assembly


42

To remove the throat plate. Using screwdriverfurnished with machine, raise the left front cornerof the throat plate enough to clear the pins B3 andfeed dog, as shown in Fig.70A.Then draw the plateto the left.

reset pin in one of holes at left of previous setting.This resetting will produce less tension at "0”. Repeatthis process until minimum desired tension isobtained.

if

M/ - 1 MirIf s lumMr

If there is no tension at "0”, press in dial G2 andreset pin F2 on nut in one of holes at right of previoussetting, repeating this process until a slight minimumtension is obtained. The tension on thread take-upspring 02 and stroke of this spring should be justsufficient to take up slack of needle thread until pointof needle reaches fabric in its descent.

; 1i

! " IH i / /

To adjust tension on thread take-up spring 02, removetension disc assembly, disengage end of spring fromgroove in tension stud, revolve spring and place itsend in the groove which produces correct tension.

Fig. 70. Removing Throat PlateTo insert the throat plate, slip the screw C3which is underneath the plate under the edge of thebed plate, as shown in Fig. 70A. Push the plate tothe right as far as it will go, then press it down into

feed dog enter theTo regulate stroke of thread take-up spring 02 loosenscrew Q2, Fig. 69, and turn the thread take-upspring regulator P2, Fig. 69 until correct strokeis obtained, then tighten screw Q2.TO CHANGE THE THROAT PLATEWhen changing from General-purpose Throat Plate toStraight Stitching Throat Plate or Embroidery Plate,FIRST raise needle to its highest point, set the needleposition lever at its central position and set bight leverat "0”. Remove presser foot.

position so that the pins B3 andholes and slot in the plate.

Fig. 70A. Replacing Throat Plate


43

TO SET TWIN NEEDLES

This machine uses a Twin Needle 306 x 1 or306 x 3 in size 3/14.needle indicate the spacing (3) and size of theneedle (14).

The markings on the

Follow procedure described for setting singleneedle (see page 17) .CAUTION—Before stitching with Twin Nee-dles be sure the needle position lever is set atcentral as shown in Fig. 26, page 24 andthat the machine is operated at a bight notexceeding 3. Set bight limit screw X, Fig. 50,page 31 to lock the bight lever at the pointdesired but not to exceed 3.For Twin Needle work the wide slotted throatplate 173303, and the wide slotted general-pur-pose presser foot 105250 or the satin stitchfoot 105251 must be used. Heavy, closelystitched, solid patterns require the satin stitchfoot while straight stitching, scalloping or run-ning stitch designs are more effectively donewith the general-purpose presser foot. Failureto use the proper throat plate or presser feetwith the wide openings will blunt or breakneedles.

h

LONG GROOVESTOWARD YOU

j

-i

!I

I

I

Fig. 71. Inserting Twin Needles IntoNeedle Clamp


44

U P P E R T H R E A D I N G —T W I N N E E D L E SPlace a spool on each of the two spool pins.

Thread each point with one thread at a time in the samemanner as for single needle threading with exception of thetension. Pass one thread between the rear and centretension discs and the second thread between the centreand front tension discs. Thread theeye of each needle from front to back.Threads must not cross or bind eachother.Start to sew with threads positioned inthe same way as when stitching withsingle needle.1'

4


45TWIN NEEDLE STITCHING

Use : General-purpose Throat PlateGeneral-purpose Presser FootTwin Needle

Central Needle Position0 Bight12 to 25 Stitch

Simple decorative stitching is effective whenused to produce a design of straight or diagonallines of stitching. The two threads carried bythe twin needles interlock with a singlebobbin thread and when the tensions areincreased the fabric between the lines ofstitching is raised.When stitching parallel lines, spacing shouldbe such that foot does not ride over apreviously stitched row, unless when using aspecial air tucking foot (see Form K6071) withparallel clearance grooves in its sole providedfor the air tucks previously sewn.

Fig. 75. Twin Needle Stitching

Make the second eighth turn of the fabric.Allow the inside needle to enter for the thirdtime into the corner stitch penetration. Con-tinue to stitch in a straight line. When designis completed draw threads to the undersideand tie.Select thread of a size appropriate for the sizeof needle being used as well as a thread appro-priate for the fabric. The Fabric, Thread,Needle and Stitch Length Chart on Page 16is a helpful guide.

Square corners are made by turning twicewhile the needles are out of the fabric.Stitch until the inside needle has reached thecorner. Raise presser foot when needles areout of the fabric. Make a one-eighth turn ofthe fabric, allowing the inside needle to enterfor the second time into the corner stitchpenetration. Turn hand wheel until theneedles go down and up again and rise out ofthe fabric.


46

SEWING SUGGESTIONS

2. Bobbin thread tension too tight — see pages 36 to42.

3. Bent Bobbin.4. Damaged Bobbin Case.Skipping of stitches might be caused by:1. Wrong setting of needle—see pages 17 and 43.2. Needle blunt or bent.3. Needle too small for thread—see page 16.4. Damaged presser foot.5. Damaged throat plate.Looped stitching might be caused by:1. Wrong threading—see pages 18 and 44.2. Tensions set incorrectly—see pages 36 to 42.3. Needle too fine for thread used.4. Improper presser foot.Gathering or Puckering of materialmight be caused by:1. Failure to use crisp lawn or organdie backing

when zigzag stitching with a very wide bightand /or on sheer materials.

2. Excessive needle and bobbin thread tensions.3. Improper presser foot.If machine runs heavily after standing idle for along period , apply a few drops of paraffin at alloiling points, run the machine for a few minutes,then wipe clean and apply SINGER* Oil as describedon pages 47 , 48 and 49.

If the suggestions offered here do not correct your sewing problems, call your local SINGER SEWING CENTRE.

Breaking of needles might be caused by:1. Wrong size of needle for thread and material—

see page 16.2. Wrong throat plate or presser foot for the type of

work being done.3. Wrong setting of needle position lever and/or

bight lever—see pages 24, 30, 31 and 32.4. Pulling of material when stitching—see page 27.5. Loosely fastened presser foot or special fittings.6. Wrong class of needle—see page 16.Breaking of needle thread might becaused by:1. A knot in thread.2. Thread too coarse for needle—see page 16.3. Wrong threading—see pages 18 and 44.4. Upper tension too tight—see pages 36 to 42*5. Needle blunt or bent.6. Needle set incorrectly—see pages 17 and 43.7. Roughened hole in throat plate.8. Wrong arrangement of threads when starting to

sew—see page 25.9. Needle thread tension too light.10. Damaged sewing hook.

Breaking of bobbin thread might becaused by:1. Wrong threading of bobbin case—see page 22.


47

PROTECTION AGAINST RUST DAMAGEYour sewing machine was built to exacting standards of precision and workmanship. Its perform-ance depends on the care and treatment it receives when in use and especially before storing away.

Lint and fluff, if not removed prior to storage will, during humidperiods, absoro and hold moisture, and thus accelerate rust damageto highly polished thread handling and other exposed parts. Theextent of rust damage would depend upon the length of time themachine remained in idle storage in an unventilated closet, attic orbasement room.

hCLEANAND

IS %si mII OILUuis3BV.Iif1 SI

ii I111 Sudden drops in temperature will cause moisture to form on parts,which if not protected by a film of oil, would rust and damage whilein storage.

Hik

CLEAN\ •1

CLEANAND

i Proper storage care suggests thorough brush-cleaning to remove alltraces of lint and fluff, followed by swabbing of all the exposed partswith a lint-free brush, saturated with SINGER oil. See Fig. 75A forthe areas which should be cleaned and coated with a protective coatof oil.

CLEANif *...OIL

1i\r\ iv>

Fig. 75A


48

TO OIL THEPreparationRemove face plate and throat plate and swing backcover plate toward hand wheel.Remove dust and lint with brush.CAUTION: Do not brush sewing hook with finebristle brush. (Fine bristles break off and clog thehook.) Use only brush with stiff bristles.

Fig. 77. Rear View, Showing Oiling PointsOilingApply a drop of oil to all points indicated in Figs. 76,77, 78 and 79.The Motor Requires No Lubrication.Fig. 76. Front View, Showing Oiling Points


49

Remove face plate S2, Fig. 76 by taking out thumbscrew T2 and slipping plate up and off screw at U2. Oil thepoints indicated in Fig. 78 and then replace plate S2.

Apply a drop of oil to race of bobbin case holder as shownin Fig. 79.

— MAMA,Fig. 78. Face Plate Removed,

Showing Oiling PointsFig. 79. Oiling Point in

Bobbin Case Holder


DISC FOLLOWERSTITCH PATTERNLEVERS DISC

NEEDLE POSITION LEVER KNURLED THUMB NUT

PRESSURE REGULATINGTHUMB SCREW LATCH

THREAD TAKE- UP LEVER BOBBIN WINDER"HAND WHEEL

BIGHT INDICATOR SCALE3- PIN TERMINAL

MAXIMUM BIGHT STOP SCREW•BIGHT CONTROL LEVERSTITCH REGULATOR ANDFEED REVERSING LEVER

STITCH INDICATORBOBBIN WINDER

THREAD TENSION

FACE PLATETAKE- UP SPRINGNEEDLE THREAD TENSIONTENSION REGULATING

THUMB NUTFACE PLATE

THUMB SCREWTHREAD CUTTERPRESSER BARNEEDLEPRESSER FOOTTHUMB SCREW STITCH REGULATOR

LIMIT SCREWPRESSER FOOTFEED DOGTHROAT PLATE

NEEDLE BAR

NEEDLE CLAMP THUMB SCREWNEEDLE CLAMP

HINGED BED COVER

Fig. 80. Names of Principal Parts of 320K Machine


51

LIGHT

To turn light on reach over machine arm and turn switch X2,Fig. 81 , to right. To extinguish turn switch to left .

Y2 X2rii

4 1}iHI. I !' 1L I—wm 12A3Fig. 82. Removing

and Replacing the BulbLOCKS jftbiMBHioinwoarr /

j.Fig. 81. Light

itTo remove the BulbGrasp light socket so that thumb extends over switch X2. Then pressshade with thumb at Y2 to release shade from two catches and slide ithalfway out of shade holder A3. Then press bulb into socket and atsame time turn bulb over from machine as far as it will go to unlockpin Z2 (see Fig. 83) . Withdraw the bulb.

UNLOCKSFig. 83. Locking orUnlocking Bulb Pin

f r r lT U !To Insert a New Bulb

Press bulb into socket and turn it over toward machine until pin Z2enters notch in socket (see Fig. 83) . Return shade to its normalposition as shown in Fig. 81. Fig.

84. InsertingBulb in Socket


52

APPLICATION OF SINGER AUTOMATICTO CONSTRUCTION OF GARMENTS AND FURNISHINGS

1STRAIGHT STITCHINGweave or finish causes the fabric to cling to theneedle, either on its upward or downwardstroke.The Straight Stitching Presser Foot isconvenient for stitching curved seams, follow-ing the edge of a lapped seam, the fold of apleat or when placing an edge-stitching on ayoke or collar. The narrow right toe affordsan excellent view at the right of the needlefor such work.To Lock Bight Control for StraightStitching. When straight stitching, set needleposition lever S at central bight lever T atzero and set maximum bight stop screw X asshown in Fig. 85. Then bring the inter-mediate bight regulator screw U upward ordownward until you feel the notch engaged.

Test Stitch. It is a good practice to teststitch on a scrap of fabric before stitching agarment to determine the correctness of ten-sions, length of stitch and pressure. TheFabric, Thread, Needle and Stitch LengthChart on page 16, is a useful guide to thecorrect needle, thread and stitch length for awide variety of fabrics.

Straight stitching is accomplished with allstitch levers in a downward position and withthe bight set at zero as shown in Figs. 85 and86.Central needle position is used for straightstitching except in the unusual situation whenit is desirable to alter the location of theneedle in relationship to the centre of thepresser foot.The Straight Stitching Throat Plateand Straight Stitching Presser Foot (seepage 30) are designed to accommodate allfabrics, but especially delicate, soft fabrics,sheers, crepe weaves and all fabrics where the


53

FITTED DARTSDarts are conveniently stayed at the points by stitch-ing beyond the fabric about one-half inch to form athread chain. Tie these chained threads into a plainknot. The last three or four stitches of a dart must bevery close and parallel to the fold, resulting in asmooth shaping of the garment.TORSO OR SHAPED DARTSTorso and shaped darts are stronger and more flexiblewhen stitched with a shallow zigzag. Stitch the pointsfor a distance of one inch with straight stitching.Zigzag centre portion.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot

Central Needle PositionlA to 1 Bight25 Stitch for Zigzag and 12 Stitch for Straight

StitchingLever A

CONTOUR DARTS IN INTERFACINGSContour darts in interfacings provide perma-nent shaping without bulk when cut, lappedand zigzag stitched along raw edges as inFig. 89. The dart is often cut away, edgesabutted and stayed with straight grain stripof muslin as in Fig. 90.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot

Central Needle Position5 Bight25 StitchLever B

II{

r

* i

iFig. 87. Dart ThreadBeing Tied

Fig. 88Torso or Shaped Darts

%

I- i

mssMsm-1

' I' -X

f' ' „ kv'li - 'mm IMP)

- '

-

|gjp|ezms

nilHHIFig. 89. Contour Dart

Along Raw Edges Fig. 90. Contour Dartwith Abutted Edges


54

ZIGZAG SEAMING

After seams have been basted and fitted, markoutline of seam on both sections of garmentwith hand basting. Remove basting that joinedseams and lay one section over other with seamlines matching and hand baste. Remove mark-ing stitches. Satin Stitch Foot 105251 is usedto follow outline of lace motif that runsthrough seam lap.Cut away excess seam up to stitching on bothright and wrong sides, using curved em-broidery scissors.

1

1Fig. 91. Invisible Seam for All-Over Lace

Use: General-purpose Throat Plate andSatin Stitch Foot 105251

Central Needle PositionVA BightAbove 25 StitchLever A

Fig. 92. Invisible Seam for All-Over Lace Embroidery


55CORDING SEAM WITH SATIN STITCH FOOT 105251

Place a thread through the eye at the front of the foot andlead it underneath the foot. Cover thread with closelyspaced zigzag stitches.Use: General-purpose Throat

Plate and Satin Stitch Foot105251Central Needle Position2 BightAbove 25 StitchLever A

Fig. 93. Cording a Seam withSatin Stitch Foot 105251

HAIRLINE SEAM IN SHEERSFor a dainty hairline seam in sheers that is' also fray-proof, follow shaped seam line with a fine cording stitch,then cut surplus seam away close to line of stitching. Thistype of seam may be used either inside or outside.

RIP- PROOF SEAM FOR LINGERIEFig. 94. Hairline Seam in Sheers

For rip-proof seams in lingerie, first straight stitch fittedseam on wrong side and press both edges to one side.Use: 0 Bight

15 Stitch for Straight StitchingOn right side of garment, top stitch with a fine zigzagstitch allowing needle to enter alternately channel ofseam and seam thickness.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and General-purpose

Presser FootCentral Needle Position2 Bight25 StitchLever A for Zigzag Stitching.

2t?m

Fig. 95. Rip-proof Seam for Lingerie


56

INVISIBLE SEAM FOR HORSEHAIR ORNET BANDINGS

Use: General-purpose Throat Plate andGeneral-purpose Presser Foot

Central Needle PositionVA Bight25 StitchLever A

Guide braid or banding so that edges are abutted as they meetwhen passing under slot of foot.

Fig. 96. Invisible Seam in Horsehair

HEAVY DUTY REVERSIBLE SEAM

Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and Presser FootCentral Needle Position2 BightAbove 12 StitchLever A

For heavy duty, strain-proof seams, use double interlockedseam, zigzagged on both sides. Turn under raw edge of onesection, and turn up raw edge of joining section. Interlock tworaw edges and zigzag across one seam on right side andother seam on wrong side, producing a double fell, doublyreinforced, with elasticity against strain when wearing.

across

Fig. 97. Heavy Duty Reversible Seam


57

STAYED SEAM FOR JERSEY OR CREPESeams in fabrics that stretch or bias seams in firm fabricsare often stayed with seam tape for durability. Positionseam tape with edge exactly on seam line. If seam iscurved, shape seam tape by steaming at the ironing board.Hand baste if necessary. Stitch with fine zigzag stitching.Press seam open, after clipping on curve.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot

Central Needle PositionVi to 1 Bight12 to 25 StitchLever AFig. 98. Stayed Seam in Jersey

OVERLAPPED SEAM FOR INTERLININGThe seams of an interlining are always overlapped toavoid excessive bulk in a garment. Care must be taken touse the full seam allowance. Stitch in the centre of theoverlap with multiple stitch zigzag. Trim excessive widthfrom seam edges. This seaming is durable, flexible andfree of bulk.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot

Central Needle Position5 Bight12 StitchLever B Fig. 99. Overlapped Seamfor Interlining


58

SEAM FINISHES

TO OVERCAST OPEN SEAMS

Turn raw edge toward wrong side and, while stitching, let it passover flanged toe of General-purpose Presser Foot and throughslot. Guide material so that needle, when swinging to the right,pierces material exactly at edge.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot

Central Needle Position2 Bight15 StitchLever A

TO FINISH SEAMS IN TRICOT OR SHEERS

Step 1. Stitch seam with short straight stitchingusing Straight Stitching Throat Plate and StraightStitching Presser Foot. Support material whenstitching as described on page 27.Step 2. Finish seam edges together with stitchingcontrolled with the Blind Stitch Disc No. 3. Trimseam allowance close to stitching. This finish pre-vents fraying and provides a fine smooth edge.Use: (for seam finish) General-purpose Throat

Plate and Presser FootCentral Needle Position1 or 2 Bight25 StitchBlind Stitch Disc No. 3

Fig. 100. OvercastingOpen Seams

Fig. 101. Finishing Seam in Iricot


59i

TO OVEREDGE SEAMS

Seam edges support the garment and should always carry a durable finish if fit is to be maintainedafter long wearing. The stitch made with the Blind Stitch Disc is especially durable and free ofbulk when used as a seam finish.

I

When seam edges are pressed in the same direction, theypressed open, they are overedged separately. overedged together, and whenare

Use: General -purpose Throat Plate and Presser FootCentral Needle Position4 or 5 Bight25 StitchBlind Stitch Disc No. 3

i

l

Fig. 103. Overedging OpenSeams in Process

Fig . 104. Overedged OpenSeams—Completed

Fig. 102. Overedging Seam Edges Together


60

TO SEW ON BUTTONS

Use: Darning and Embroidery Throat Plate 161238Button Sewing Foot 189648Left Needle PositionApproximately 3 Bight0 StitchLever A

Fig. 105. Sewing on ButtonsWith Light at 0, position button, drop needle through centre of left hole.Then lower button sewing foot. Turn hand wheel over toward you untilneedle rises. Set bight at approximately 3 or so that needle, on its rightswing, enters centre of right hole. Then stitch. Needle should enter eachhole six times. To fasten stitch, set bight at 0 and take 3 stitches in lefthole of button.

TO SEW ON BUTTONS WITH THREAD SHANK

Follow steps outlined above and in addition, hold pin or needle betweenholes in button to deepen stitches and provide thread shank. A long threadshank results when the heavy end of sewing machine needle is used in

die thread tension if stitches appear to beplace of a pin. Tightloosely set.

en nee

Fig. 106. Serving on Buttons withThread Shank


61

TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES

MARKINGLINES

LENGTH OFCUTTING SPACE

BAR TACKS ANDSIDE STITCHING MARKING THE MATERIAL

Mark the position and length of buttonholes with bastingstitches or marking chalk. The length of the finishedbuttonhole will be the cutting space plus }/% inch forbar tacks. The length of the cutting space, the openingthrough which the button passes, is measured by thewidth plus the thickness of the button.

7 ^II

iIIl1I iiI iiI

ilSETTING THE MACHINE

Use: Lever ALeft Needle Position (See page 32)General-purpose Throat PlateButtonhole Foot (See Fig. 107, page 63)Stitch Length Above 252 Bight for Side Stitching (Use intermediate

bight regulator screw) (See page 31)4 Bight for Bar Tacks (Use maximum bight

stop screw X) (See page 31)

NOTE: Bight settings of 23^ for side stitches and 5 forbar tacks make slightly heavier buttonholes. Fabricweight will determine the selection.Test stitch length and bight setting on a double fold ofthe same fabric as the garment. Include interfacing ifthis has been used.I


62TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES

1

S

<

STITCHING PROCEDUREPlace work under needle, aligning centre marking of buttonhole with point of buttonhole foot. Turn hand wheeltoward you so that needle enters fabric at point A.SIDE STITCHING: Lower foot and stitch to end of marking, leaving needle in fabric at point B.PIVOTING: Raise foot and using needle as a pivot, turn work. Lower foot and take one stitch without changingbight setting, thus bringing needle to point C. Leave needle in fabric.BAR TACK: Adjust bight lever to 4 and take no less than six stitches. Stop at point D, needle in fabric.SIDE STITCHING: Return bight lever to 2 and complete work to point E, approximately six stitches from end ofbuttonhole. The end marking will appear at lower edge of opening in buttonhole foot.BAR TACK: Move bight lever to 4 and duplicate tack previously made, ending with needle in work at point F

.


63'

TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES

Raised or Gimp Buttonholest

i Fig. 107. MakingGimp Buttonholes

Insert No. 8 perle cotton or buttonhole twistthread through eyelet in front of buttonholefoot, as shown in Fig. 107 and proceed as forregular buttonholes as instructed on pages61, 62 and at the left.

I

©FINISHING: To secure stitching, set bightlever at 0 and take three stitches. Removework and draw thread to underside, fasten andtrim. With sharp embroidery scissors cutopening for the button.

XMl

Fig. 108. Gimp ButtonholesL


64

BLIND STITCHED AND DECORATIVE HEMS

BUND STITCHED HEMS WITH FOLDED EDGE

Blind Stitched hems are appropriate for curtains, draperies,table linens and fabric furnishings. Fold, press and bastehem, keeping basting stitches at least lAn from upper foldof hem.Place hem against feed, turning the bulk of the work backin a soft fold. Position needle into folded edge of the hemnear this soft fold. The Blind Stitch Disc produces fourstraight stitches separated by a single sideward stitch to theleft. The sideward stitch should pierce the soft fold, result-ing in a Blind Stitched hem. The bight is regulated at 2 or 3,depending on the weight and texture of the fabric.

Blind Stitched Hem in Process

The length of stitch regulates the distance between theBlind Stitches.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and

Zipper Foot 161127Central to Left Needle Position2 or 3 Bight12 to 25 StitchBlind Stitch Disc No. 3

CAUTION: Left needle position must be used when bight3 or 4 is used with Zipper Foot at right of needle.

iiiftiit-

- --'v

£23727

Fig . 110. Blind Stitched Hern Completed


65t

BLIND STITCHED HEM FINISHED WITH SEAM TAPE

Hems in skirts, dresses or coats have extra width at the topof the hem which must be considered. When the garment isflared or circular, there is more fullness in the hem than instraight cut styles. This fullness must be controlled beforethe hem is finished, if a smooth hem is to result.After the length of the garment is marked, pin and bastewith silk thread one-quarter inch from crease of hem. Press,to shape hem allowance, then measure and cut hem todesired width.Control fullness by placing a line of straight stitching one-quarter inch from top edge of hem and draw bobbin thread,easing fullness and shaping top of hem to garment. Steamto shrink excess fullness.

Fig. 111. Seam Tape Basted to HemEdge Before Blind Stitching

Baste and stitch seam tape along this quarter inch controlthread. Hand baste through centre of seam tape in prepara-tion for Blind Stitching.Position hem against feed with inside of garment rolled tothe left to form a soft fold at basting line. Blind Stitch hemwith the machine equipped as follows:Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and Presser FootCentral to Left Needle Position

1 to 3 Bight12 to 25 StitchBlind Stitch Disc No. 3

Fig. 112. Blind Stitching HemFinished with Seam Tape


66

BLENDED CIRCULAR HEM

Circular hems in heavy coatings are smoothlyfinished, when the fullness is removed, by cut-ting away narrow wedges at regular intervals toallow the hem to conform exactly to the shapeof the garment. The cut should not extendbeyond one inch from the lower fold of thehem. Garments where this treatment is usedare usually lined and the lining is carried toone inch from the edge.Bring cut edges together and stitch withMultiple Stitch Zigzag Disc. Should the fabricbe loosely woven, an underlay of thin lawnmay be used as a stay on the underside.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and Zipper

FootCentral Needle Position5 Bight25 StitchLever B

The edge of the hem is finished by overedgingwith Blind Stitch Disc No. 3, 5 bight, and25 stitch, as described on page 59.Hand baste hem to garment three-eighths inch

i

Fig. 113. Blended Circular Hem

from top edge of hem. With Zipper Footadjusted to right of needle, place hem againstfeed and turn garment to form a soft roll atbasting line as in Fig. 112, page 65.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate

Zipper Foot 161127 (set at right of needle)Needle Position, slightly left of Centre2 to 3 BightBlind Stitch Disc No. 3


67t>

APPLIQUE SHADOW HEMSShadow hems are lovely for table linens of crisporgandie or fine linen, and for dresses or aprons ofsheer, crisp fabrics. Baste hem to full depth of design,corners mitred where necessary. Mark design on rightside. Draw filler cord through opening in front ofSatin Stitch Foot and follow design with fine, closelyspaced zigzag stitching. When applique is complete, cutaway surplus edge from wrong side close to stitching.See Fig. 115 for threading of cord. Note that cord is

carried from the first threadguide down between centre andfront tension discs, but notinto take-up spring. Carrycord into needle clamp threadguide and then through theopening in the front of theSatin Stitch Foot.Use: General-purpose Throat

PlateSatin Stitch Foot 105251Central Needle Position1 BightAlmost 0 StitchLever A

*

Fig. 114. Applique Shadow Hem in Processi

3}

Fig. 116. Applique Shadow Hem Completed .Fig. 115. Threading SatinStitch Foot with Filler Cord


68 o

EMBROIDERED LACE OR VIENNA WORK

Embroidered Lace or Vienna Work is charac-teristic of high-priced lingerie. Yet it may be veryquickly and easily accomplished with Satin StitchFoot, using fine rayon or silk crochet thread asthe filler cord to be covered. See page 67 forthreading of cord.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate

Satin Stitch Foot 105251Central Needle Position1 BightAlmost 0 StitchLever A

Fig. 117. Outlining Lace Motif withSatin Stitch Foot 105251

Use wide lace edging with a definite floral design,and baste into position, where desired, on rightside of fabric. First follow upper lines of motifnearest edge, covering filler cord with tinystitches along lines of motif, and continuing inan unbroken, continuous line. Then choose asection of the motif nearest edge and fully outlinethis separate motif, repeating at evenly spacedintervals for length of the lace. Finally, removebastings, cut away surplus lace close to stitchesof corded outlines and, from wrong side of gar-ment cut away surplus satin along edge, close tolines of cording.

mf&ltzI

* ' ‘ •

i M )£ >V|j

Fig. 118. Lace Motif Embroidered Into Satin


69

SHELL STITCHED HEMS

Shell stitched hems provide a soft, ornamentalfinish for delicate fabrics, particularly whenmaterial is cut on the bias.Lower shell hemmer over raw edge of fabric onwrong side of material. Take one stitch, raise shellhemmer. Draw the work back and cut threads.Holding both ends of attached needle thread, leadraw edge of fabric lightly into scroll of hemmer,drawing on threads to carry it through. On reach-ing slot of hemmer, lower the needle into hem, thenlower hemmer and stitch.

B*.jj

BZ7946

Leading Raw Edge Into Scroll of Shell Hemmer

Use:General-purpose Throat PlateShell Hemmer 189653Central Needle Position5 Bight8 StitchLever A or B, Blind Stitch

Disc No. 3 or Shell EdgeDisc No. 7

Many variations of the softscallop may be obtained byusing different stitch settingsand threads.

The automatic stitch designs lend further variation and interest toshell hems.The shell hems illustrated are stitched with Blind Stitch Disc at 3 bightand 25 stitch ( Fig. 121 ), and with Multiple Stitch Lever B at 5 bightand 25 stitch (Fig. 122) .

Fig. 120Shell Stitched Hem in Process

Fig. 122Completed Shell Hems

Fig. 121


70i

THE BINDER

BIAS BOUND EDGES

The Binder is used to apply commercial binding as well as self -fabric bias to anunfinished edge.This colourful trim is attractive when applied to children’s wear, aprons andfabric furnishings. It is a practical finish for seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams.The oval needle hole of the attachment will accommodate both straight andzigzag stitching.

r**

'HI£2800/

Fig. 123. BinderNo.161233

THREADING BINDER

Pre-folded commercial bias is inserted from the rightinto the outside slot in the binder scroll.Cut the binding diagonally to form a long point. Insertthe pointed end into the slot and pull through the scrolluntil the evenly folded edges are under the needle. Fig.

124. Inserting FoldedBinding in Binder

Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and BinderStraight Stitch0 Bight10 to 15 Stitch LengthCentral Needle Position

Lever A Zigzag Stitch2 to 5 Bight8 to 12 Stitch LengthCentral Needle Position

or|


71O’.

BIAS BOUND EDGES

ADJUSTMENT AND OPERATION OF BINDERThe edge to be bound is guided into the centre ofthe scroll. Stitching is positioned close to the edgeof the binding by adjusting the scroll portion of theattachment. Loosen the adjusting screw and movethe scroll to the right to bring the stitching closerto the binding edge, and to the left for a wideradjustment. Care should be taken to see that thescrew is well tightened after making an adjustment.Never pull the binding as it feeds through thescroll. Allow the attachment to do the work,merely guide the edge to be bound well into thecentre of the scroll as you stitch.

/1

11181111Fig. 125. Adjusting the Binder

SELF-FABRIC BINDINGSelf-fabric bias binding should be cut 1%" wide onthe true bias. Insert the unfolded binding directlyinto the two folds at the end of the scroll and drawit back under the needle. As the binding passesthrough the scroll the raw edges are turned in. Useeither straight or zigzag stitching. Adjust the posi-tion of the scroll, being sure that the needle entersthe double fold of the binding on both sides of thework.Fig. 126. Applying Unfolded Bias

Binding With Zigzag Stitch-**T


72BINDING CURVED EDGES

Curved edges can be bound as easily as straightedges, but require slightly different fabric handling.Inside curves are straightened as they are fed intothe binder. If the fabric is soft and has a tendencyto stretch, reinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding.Outside curves tend to lead away from the centreslot of the scroll and should be guided so that a fullseam width is taken at the needle point. Do notattempt to pull or straighten fabric into the fulllength of the scroll.Zigzag stitched binding affords a particularly elasticand durable flat finish for curved edges. Whenusing a straight stitch a wider adjustment of thebinder scroll is required than is necessary whenbinding a straight edge.

Fig. 127. Binding Curved Edge

BOUND SEAMS

Two seam edges may be bound together to form adurable seam that is especially useful in householdarticles, such as cushions or simple slip-on coversof fabric or plastic. The seam edges are first joinedwith straight stitching (wrong sides together) , theseam allowance trimmed to a scant A" , and theninserted into the scroll of the Binder, and boundas a single edge.

Fig. 128. Binding a Seam


73

NET BOUND SEAMSDelicate fabrics that fray easily, like chiffon, velvets, sheermetallics, etc., may have seam edges bound with nylon net. Cutnet into strips a half-inch wide, and insert, unfolded, into out-side slot of binder.Use: Central Needle Position

12 to 25 Stitch LengthFeed seam edges into binder scroll with right side of fabric up.This finish will insure against fraying without adding bulk.

Bight 2Lever A

Fig. 129. Net Bound Seam onVelvet with Zigzag Stitch

DECORATIVE BOUND EDGESBindings are given added interest when stitched with decorative automatic designs. Merely select the disc, regulatestitch length, bight and needle position and stitch as easily as if straight stitching.

Use: General-purpose Throat PlateCentral Needle PositionStitch Length Above 25Stitch Pattern (Select desired disc)BinderBight 3 to 5

Fig. 130. Binding with Designmade with Disc No. 5

i i£20057

Fig. 131. Binding with Designmade with Disc No. 8

Fig. 132. Binding with Designmade with Disc No.12

Fig. 133. Binding with Designmade with Lever D

4


74

CORDED EDGES WITH FABRIC COVERED CORD

Use: General-purpose Throat Plate, orStraight Stitching Throat PlateCentral Needle Position0 BightZipper Foot 161127

To cover Cord, cut bias strip twice the width of the seamallowance plus cord, adjust Zipper Foot at left of needle,fold bias over cord, raw edges even, and position needleclose to cord, but not into it, and lower the foot. Stitch,guiding the edge of the foot next to the cord, but do notcrowd the foot against it.Machine Baste Cord to right side of garment usingZipper Foot adjusted to right of needle.

Fig. 134. Covering Cord with Zipper Foot

Apply facing and position under needle, with facing nextto feed and garment next to foot, so that basting stitch willbe in view. Stitch, this time crowding the foot againstthe cording and making stitches between the basting andthe cording.Before turning work, blend seams by cutting away seamallowances, the bias to Vs" and the garment and facingto H' .Corded seams and edges lend smartness to tailored gar-ments. Cushion covers and slip covers are usually finishedwith corded seams. The Zipper Foot is essential for makingcorded seams and edges and has many applications inaddition to stitching zippers and hems.

Fig. 135. Machine BastingCovered Cord to Garment


75SCALLOPING

When the Scallop Disc is in use, the needle moves toform a scallop while the fabric moves in a straight lineunder the presser foot. The depth of the scallop is con-trolled by the bight setting. A 5 bight produces a scallopapproximately deep and each bight setting of lessthan 5 produces a correspondingly narrower scallop.The length of scallop varies with the stitch length. A12 stitch and a 5 bight produce a scallop approximately134" in length, a 25 stitch and 5 bight give approxi-mately a. H " scallop, while a stitch length above 25produces a scallop of 34 " in length or less dependingupon the stitch.A single straight stitch separates each scallop providingspace for cutting when the seam edges are trimmed andturned to form the finished, faced scallop edge.Scalloped edges are used extensively on blouses, dressesand on children’s wear.

SCALLOPED EDGES

PHI

£23624

Fig. 136. Scalloped Edge in ProcessUse: General-purpose Throat Plate and

General-purpose Presser FootCentral Needle Position5 Bight12 to 25 Stitch, as desiredLever C

Stitch in the same way as when making a straight seam.The garment section will pass straight under thepresser foot while the needle follows a scallop pattern.Trim seam allowance to less than Vs " and clip into eachpoint between scallops.Blend this narrow seam by clipping small wedges atregular intervals. When the scallop is turned, theseamed scallop edge will have a smooth even contour. Fig. 137. Scalloped Edge Completed


76

MONOGRAMS

Attractive variation is given simple mono-when one or more automatic stitchgrams

“atterns are introduced. Select a monogram_ rom the many transfer designs available orsketch one to suit your purpose.IBack fabric with tarleton, crisp lawn oroigandie. Trace or stamp design on right sideof material. Cut away backing when stitchinghas been completed.

The monograms on this page are suggestive ofthe wide range and many variations which canbe achieved.

Fig. 141


77

SCRIPT STITCHUse: Darning and Embroidery Throat Plate No. 161238

Darning and Embroidery Foot No. 161236Darning and Embroidery Hoop No. 161240

or Conventional Embroidery HoopsCentral Needle Position

mmf Hrm11

3-5 Bight 0 Stitch Lever AScript stitch is most effective for marking baby blankets,children’s wear, household linens, lingerie or accessories.After tracing or marking lettering on right side of fabric,place in embroidery hoops with right side up. (See page88 for assembling hoops.) Place work under needle, lowerthe presser bar, position the needle and follow the outline

traced. Should thread breakage occur, check setting of needle, decrease tension andlawn or organdie as an underlay.

Fig. 143. Script Stitching with Hoops

use crisp

SHADOW MONOGRAM

Shadow monograms have a dimensional appeal accomplishedwith threads of different colours or shades and with twin needles.Proceed as for script stitch. Limit bight to 3 or less and usea needle thread tension slightly lighter than for script stitch.Stitch more slowly when crossing one line of stitching overanother. Where lines cross, stitch the first line less dense andallow the second line of stitching to be more prominent.Move embroidery hoops in forming letters so that most of themotion is away from you. Move hoops with the stroke of theneedle, taking care not to bend or deflect needles.Shadow monograms are equally appropriate for linens andwearing apparel. Fig. 144. Shadow Monogram


78 )DESIGNS AND MOTIFS


79BORDER DESIGNS

::v


80

APPLIQUE

to dull crepe to create beauty and interest bycontrast in texture. Print fabrics are some-times applied to plain fabrics in dresses,children’s clothes, play clothes or linens, foraccent. In draperies, motif and border printsmay be applied to plain fabric of similar tex-ture. When large motif designs are used in.applique, the lines or sections of the designare frequently accented by continuing thestitching around these sections to bring outthe design. In fabric furnishings such designsections are frequently padded to furtheraccent the design and to give it a dimensionalquality. Shadow applique on sheer fabrics is animportant variation of plain applique and isdescribed on page 67 .After stitching, portions of the design are cutaway giving shadow contrast between portionsof the design having double and singlethickness.Bold monograms of contrasting fabrics may beapplied to bedspreads, blanket covers or otherfurnishings for the home.

Fig. 156

Applique is effective on many types of appareland fabric furnishings. Fabrics of like textures,as well as fabrics of different textures andweaves, are often used in appliqueing. Forexample, in lingerie, lustrous satin is appliqued


81

Fig. 157. Child' s Appliqued Train MotifA closely spaced satin stitch is usually used forapplique making it unnecessary to turn rawedges to underside. The width of the satinstitch may be varied to accommodate theweave. Fine fabrics are appliqued with anarrow satin stitch, while coarse fabrics re-quire a wide satin stitch. In many cases thedesign is stitched to the garment with a satinstitch and the edges are trimmed away later.An alternate procedure is often used wherethe design is stitched to the fabric with a short

straight stitch, the raw edges trimmed, and thesatin stitch used to complete the outline,resulting in a smooth, lustrous edge. A trialsample is always made to determine themethod most appropriate for the particularwork being done, since applique is appropriateon such a diversity of fabrics.Gay motifs from everyday life are spirited andsmart for resort wear, play clothes or furnish-ings in children’s rooms or recreation rooms.


82

C OIL E

iTHE RUFFLERUse: Straight Stitching Throat Plate

Ruffler 86642Central Needle Position0 Bight

PRINCIPAL PARTS OF RUFFLERA—Foot—attaches ruffler to presser bar.B—Fork Arm—straddles needle clamp.C—Adjusting Screw—regulates fullness of

gathers.D—Projection—engages slots in adjusting

lever.Adjusting Lever—sets Ruffler for gath-ers or pleats.

F—Adjusting Finger—regulates depth orsize of pleats.

G—Separator and Seam Guides—sepa-rates ruffle strip from fabric and facing—guides seam edges evenly.

H—Ruffling Bladblade with teeth.

J—Separator Blade—lower blue bladekeeps Ruffling Blade Teeth separate fromFeed Dog Teeth.

TO OIL THE RUFFLERThe ruffler requires oiling at the beginning of

DB 'i\

F

f OILOIL/Bs,

r

83:

To Adjust Ruffler for Gathering, swing ad-justing finger F away from needle. Raise adjustinglever E and move it until projection D can beentered in slot marked “1”. Insert material tobe ruffled between two blue blades and underseparator guide following the line marked 2 inFig. 159. Draw material slightly back of needle,lower presser bar and sew. For fine gathering, turnadjusting screw C upward to shorten stroke. Setmachine for a short stitch. For full gathering, turnadjusting screw C downward to lengthen stroke.Set the machine for a longer stitch.

RUFFLING2MATERIAL

Fig. 159. Correct Position for Materialto be Ruffled

To Make a Ruffle and Sew It toa Garment in One Operation, insertmaterial to be ruffled between two blueblades and under separator guide. Placematerial to which ruffle is to he attachedunder separator blade and under separatorguide. Proceed the same as for plaingathering.

\

Fig. 160. Making a Ruffle and Attaching It in One Operation


84

To Adjust Ruffler for Pleating, raise ad-justing lever E and move it until projection Dcan be entered in slot marked "6”. Theruffler will then pleat once every 6 stitches. Topleat once every 12 stitches, have projection Denter slot "12” in adjusting lever E. Insertmaterial to be pleated between two blue bladesand under the separator guide.To increase width of pleat, move adjustingfinger F back toward needle and turn adjustingscrew C downward. To make a smaller pleat,turn adjusting screw C upward. The distancebetween pleats is regulated by length of stitch.To make the space between the groups ofpleats, raise adjusting lever E and move ituntil projection D can be entered in small slotindicated by star on adjusting lever E. Theruffler will then stop pleating and plain stitch-ing will be made.

Fig. 161. Group Pleating with Ruffler

When desired space is made, set projection Din either of slots "6” or "12”. Insert materialto be pleated between two blue blades andunder separator guide.


85

FAMILY MAINTENANCE SEWINGMENDING A RENT OR TEARHousehold linens, sheets, towels and pillow cases are quickly mended onthe SINGER Automatic Swing-Needle Machine by holding an underlay ofstraight or bias fabric underneath the tear and stitching with the multiplestitch zigzag over the tear bringing the edges of the tear together and rein-forcing them. The ends or corners are given added strength by using ashorter stitch length.Use: General-purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot

Central Needle Position5 Bight25 to almost 0 StitchMultiple Stitch Zigzag Lever B

MENDING TROUSER POCKETRegulate machine in the same way as for mending a tear, and stitch pockettogether allowing the needle to stitch very close to the edge on its right

stroke, reinforcing the edge andclosing the seam at the same time.

GIRDLE REPAIRSZigzag stitching is well suited foruse on garments of an elasticnature that require firm, flexiblestitching. The multiple stitch zig-zag, as well as the plain zigzag, isappropriate for such repairs. Thestitch length and bight are regu-lated according to the need. Aneedle slightly largeris used for regular stitching is

/Fig. 162. Mending a Tear

in size than Fig. 164. Repairing a Girdlesometimes necessary to accommodate the multiple layers of fabric andelastic. Where both lengthwise and crosswise elasticity is important,Fig. 163. Mending a Trouser Pocket multiple stitch zigzagging is best suited.


861

ELASTIC WAISTBANDSUse: General-purpose Throat Plate and

Presser FootCentral Needle Position2 Bight12 StitchLever A

Stretch elastic while stitching to provide the degree offullness required in the garment. If a waistband, fit elasticfor snugness on the individual and join ends of elastic.Divide both elastic and garment into quarters and pin atthese intervals. Stretch elastic between these points to dimension of garment while stitching. Withtop edge of elastic in line with raw edge of garment, zigzag two rows, following the cords in theelastic. Trim away raw edge of garment near top line of stitching.

REPLACING BLANKET BINDING

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent stitch for apply-ing blanket bindings and affords both a decorative anddurable finish. Remove worn binding. Baste new bindingsecurely in place. Stitch, using the General-purpose ThroatPlate and Presser Foot, 5 bight, 12 to 25 stitch andMultiple Stitch Zigzag Lever B. Increase pressure adjust-ment to accommodate the thickness of the blanket.

i

Fig. 165. Renewed Elastic Waistband

^ ML.

£23579

Fig. 166 . Blanket Binding Replaced


T

87\

D A R N I N G

Stockings, children’s balbriggans, leggings,and knit wear of all kinds as well as householdlinens can be conveniently darned on Machine320K. The area near the worn section mustbe held taut in the embroidery hoops furnish-ed with the machine, or in conventionalembroidery hoops.

Use: Darning and Embroidery Foot 161236Darning and Embroidery Throat Plate

161238Darning and Embroidery Hoop 161240

or Conventional Embroidery HoopsCentral Needle Positjon 0 Bight

l

•

iAttach Darningand Embroidery

WL, Foot to presserD3 bar with thumb

screw E3 so thatextension F3 isd i r e c t l y u n d e rpresser bar lifter,lug D3 is 'aboveneedle clamp andthe needle passesthrough centre ofhole in foot, asshown in Fig.168.

L

Fig. 167. Attaching Darningand Embroidery Throat Plate

Remove presser foot, then remove throatplate as instructed on page 42. Place Darningand Embroidery Throat Plate in position onmachine as shown in Fig. 167, so that screwC3 is underneath the edge of the bed plateand the pins enter the holes B3 in the plate.

Fig. 168. AttachingDarning and

Embroidery Foot


88

DARNING —Con t inuedTo attach Embroidery Hoop J3, Fig.'169 to machine, remove solid ringH3 from split ring J3 and insert studK3 in hole L3 in bed of machine.Place material to be darned over splitring J3 so that hole to be repaired iscentred in the hoop. Then place

Fig. 169. Attaching Embroidery Hoop

solid ring H3 over the material andpress it down firmly on the split ringto clamp material taut between therings.Raise foot lifter G3, Fig. 168 andneedle bar and swing hoops withmaterial under the darning foot, asshown in Fig. 171.

Fig. 170. Attaching Embroidery Hoop


89iD A R N I N G —C o n t i n u e d

With a steady, continuous movement, movehoops backward and forward across hole,keeping the lines of stitching closely spacedand even in length. Slow movement of hoopswill produce a short stitch while rapid move-ment will produce a long stitch. For knit andtricot fabri

singer 320k2 user manual -...

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