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Development ofquality and safetymanual for infant

essential garments

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OBJECTIVES

To develop a quality and safety manual for

infant essential garment and to study theproducts catered by different brands in the

same segment.

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OBJECTIVES SECONDARY OBJECTIVES

To study and standardize the elements, lawsassociated and Safety of the garments accordingto the govt. set safety codes and parameters.

To understand the infant garment , product

available in the market and best practices forinfant essential wear.

To develop the quality and safety manual andmake recommendations on products studied.

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NEED OF PROJECT

With the increase in demand of branded Kidsapparels in the market, the infant wear segment

has seen a boom in past 3 yrs.[1]

Though there is a hike in terms of sales andawareness, the market for infants wear remain

mostly unorganized and fragmented.[2]

Few big names have entered in India in past sixyears catering to organized infant wear.[3]

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NEED OF PROJECT There are few Indian brands which offers infants

wear, Mom n me, Cucumber, Karrot ,Zero to name a

few.[1]

With the increase in disposable income of India*,new parents want to up bring their child with best

they can provide.[2]

Clothing is one of the main attribute of infants careand should comply to various laws andregulations.[3]

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NEED OF PROJECT

An infant essential wear requires lot of attention,as the end-user is a baby, the garments areintended for daily use and comfort andfunctionality is most important aspect of infantessential wear.[1]

The need arises is to standardize the quality andsafety of the product while taking care ofmaximizing the functionality of the garment.[]

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COMPANY PROFILE SHOPPERS STOP

Setting up its first shop in 1991 with its flagship store inAndheri, Mumbai, Shoppers Stop is a member of the K.Raheja Corp. of Companies. Shoppers Stop is the firstretail venture by the K. Raheja Corp.

Expanding its operations to Bangalore, Hyderabad,Jaipur, Delhi, Chennai, Mumbai (Andheri, Bandra,Chembur, Kandivli, Mulund), Pune, Gurgaon andKolkata, Shoppers Stop is today recognized as Indiaspremier shopping destination.[1]

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COMPANY PROFILE Customer Profile: Shoppers Stops customers fall

between the age group of 0 years to 35 years.

Range of merchandise: The stores offer acomplete range of apparel and lifestyle accessoriesfor the entire family. From apparel brands for kids

like UCB, Nauti Nati, Ruff, Mothercare, Gini n Jony,for adults like Provogue, Color Plus, Arrow, Levis,Van Huesen, Zodiac to cosmetic brands like Lakme,Chambor, Le Teint Ricci etc, Shoppers Stop catersto every lifestyle need. [1]

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COMPANY PROFILE

Shoppers' Stop retails its own line of clothingnamely Stop, Life , Karrot(INFANT WEAR)Kashish, Vettorio Fratini, Mario Zegnoti, life, I-jeans.[1]

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KARROT

This is an inhouse brand of Shoppers stop.

It was launched in 2011.

Its targeted customer are those who are wellknown and are ready to pay for the good qualitythey are getting.

This brand deals in essential wear for infantsand toddlers.[1]

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INDIAN KIDS WEAR MARKET According to the India

Apparel Report, 2012

(Images Year Book, Vol IV),the size of Indian kidswearmarket is estimated to be atRs. 45, 000 crore.

The volume of market shareof kids apparels in the totalapparel market is at 24.9%,as against a 15% share in2005. [1]

Market Share

KidsWear

MensWear

Womens Wear

34.8 %

40.2 %

25%

Figures by India Apparel Report,2012

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GROWTH OF KIDS AND INFANT WEARMARKET Kids segment is considered by industry analysts

as one of the fastest growing segment, due to

increase in child population.

A research states that more than 30% of thecountrys population is below 15 years of age.

The density of population makes kids wear to beone of the fastest growing segments in theIndian market scenario.[1]

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OVERVIEW OF UNORGANISED ANDORGANISED RETAIL MARKET According to the National Accounts Statistics of India the

unorganised sector includes units whose activity is notregulated by any statute or legal provision and/or those,

which do not maintain regular accounts. [1]

Thus, unorganised retailing refers to the traditional formats oflow-cost retailing, for example, the local kirana shops, ownermanaged general stores etc.[2]

Unorganised retailing is characterized as unstructured andhigh degree of fragmentation with street markets constitutesform peddlers, street vendors, neighbourhood stores andconsumer durable stores to manufacturer owned retailoutlets.

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OVERVIEW OF UNORGANISED ANDORGANISED RETAIL MARKET Organised retailing refers to trading activities

undertaken by licensed retailers, that is, those

who are registered for sales tax, income tax, etc.

These include the corporate-backed

hypermarkets and retail chains, and also theprivately owned large retail businesses. In other

words, it is a network of similarly brandedstores with an element of self-service.[1]

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UNORGANISED TO ORGANISED MARKET

Unorganised players have always dominated themarket. Manufacturing cheap, big volumes of

products in a myriad of styles, these players havespread their distribution across the country,reaching every nook and cranny.

Branded apparel sector in India is still in its nascent

stage and larger part of the market is stillunorganised. But, with more and more companiesdiverting their revenues towards branded kids wearsector, branded category will supercede theunorganised sector in coming days.[1]

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REASON BEING

Rising disposable income of Indianmiddle-class: The Indian middle-class is

the consuming class and the prime targetsegment for retailers in India. In 2005, itconstituted around 6.4 per cent of total

households in India but accounted for 20 percent of the disposable income.

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REASON BEING By 2015, the middle class is expected to constitute

around 25 percent of total households and account

for 44 per cent of the total disposable income, andby 2025, the respective figures are likely to go up to46 per cent and 58 per cent.

The Indian middle-class population and their

growing disposable income levels will drive thefuture growth of organised retail for infants in India.

Current Disposable income of India is $1,577,692.1US million.[3]

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REASON BEING Increase in working population: India is the second-

largest country in the world in terms of population, andis the largest consumer markets in the world owing to its

favourable demographics.

In 2012 Indias working population (in the 15-49 years agegroup) constituted around 63 per cent of the population ascompared with 48.6 per cent in the UK, 49 per cent in the US,and 53 per cent in Russia.

Further, the increase in the number of working women hasfuelled the growth in sales of infant and kids products. Therehas been a 20 per cent increase in the number of workingwomen in the last decade.[1]

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REASON BEING

Branded kids wear players have entered the marketand shown their worth. Raymond has ventured in

with its kid's brand Zapp. Gini & Jony was broughtin by the country's biggest corporate houses.

Shoppers Stop has brought Mothercare UK to the

country. Amongst international brands, WaltDisney, Barbie, Hot wheels, Okaidi have already setup their base and are happy to be in India.Refreshingly new is Oyo by Spykar. [1]

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REASON BEING As government has allowed 51 per cent FDI in Indian

industry, there are many international players entering

the junior wear market. Entry of these internationalbrands has accelerated national brands in producingbetter products at best prices to beat the competition.

Today, international firms are striving hard to survive

for Indian junior wear industry is complex. Only brandsthat know minds of Indian consumers well can win.Thus, this is creating healthy competition betweennational and international brands by making nationalbrands more powerful.[1]

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REASON BEING

Nowadays, people prefer to shop at familystores, rather than going to three different stores

for purchasing men's wear, women's wear andkids wear.

The reason why brands are getting into lineextensions can be need for grasping a largermarket share and increasing their revenues. [1]

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Classification of children on the basisof age.The market for kids wear is classified as

follows:[1]

Infants (0 - 6 months)

Toddlers (7 months - 2 years)

Kids (3 - 8 Years)

Pre-teens (9 - 12 Years)Teens (13-19 years)

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Infant Essential Garments Essential wear as name defines is a necessary

minimum clothing which is required to cover ones

body to keep it warm, safe from externalenvironment and temperature.

Essential wears are generally daily wears which are

meant to be more functional and comforting ratherthan being fashionable and attractive.

Essential wear generally fit snugly to body and takesthe shape of the body part.

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Products in infant essential garment

The products which fall in this category areBody suits, Rompers, Sleeping suit, Front open

tee, tee, slips, UGs, Shorts, pyjama, Bibs,booties, mittens, Jhabla, caps, Vest, Body wraps,Beddings, Pyjama with booties of variousbrands. [1]

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BRAND OFFERINGS FOR KIDS APPARELS

Market of infants wear is increasing day by day,many players have entered the market and

offering variety of products in essential wearrange.

The major players in this field are Mothercare,

Mom n me, Shoppers stop, Ruff, Westside,Disney, Fisher Price, Zara, Gini n jony , NaughtyNati, Tommy Hilfiger , Me n moms, mee mee,Baby Oye, UCB kids.[1]

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Differentiation of brands

Brand offering product for 0-2yrs.

Brand not offering products for0-2 yrs.

Mothercare , Mom and me , Karrot ,Disney , Zara , Zero , Local and onlineBrands, UCB kids, Nauti Nati

westside, little kangaroos , little,moms pet

Pantaloons, Ruff, gini and jony,catmoss, Zapp, liliput, Weekender,Tommy hilfiger, Stop, life,

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Differentiation based on fashion and

essential garment in the above agegroup

Essential Fashion

Mothercare , Mom and me , Karrot ,Disney , Zara , Zero , Local and onlineBrands

Mothercare , Mom and me , Stop ,UCB , Zara , Nauti nati , littlekangaroos.

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Product offering by different Brands inessential section Product offering

Price list[1]

http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/Final%20presentation/infant%20products.xlshttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/Final%20presentation/Price%20range.xlsxhttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/Final%20presentation/Price%20range.xlsxhttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/Final%20presentation/infant%20products.xls

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PRODUCTS OFFERED IN MARKET AS AWHOLE The major offering in Infants essential wear are

Body suits, Rompers, Sleeping suit, Front open

tee, tee, slips, UGs, Shorts, pyjama, Bibs,booties, mittens, Jhabla, caps, Vest, Body wraps,Beddings, Pyjama with booties.

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Garment required to study

Sleeping suit

T shirt with full sleeve

Bibs

Pajama

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PRODUCT OFFERING BY BRANDSSTUDIED

http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/garment%20study.xlsxhttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/garment%20study.xlsxhttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/garment%20study.xlsxhttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/garment%20study.xlsx

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PRICE RANGE

http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/Price%20range.xlsxhttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/Price%20range.xlsx

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Analysis of Testing Reports

BIBS

Fibre Content of all the Four Brands (Zero,karrot, Mom n Me, Disney)*is 100% cottonexcept mothercare.

Mothercare has used blend of Cotton-Polyesterin two different ratio i.e (80.6% Cotton-19.4%Polyester and 77.2 % Cotton-22.8 % Polyester).

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Varied construction has been used for makingthe Bibs, Mothercare has used French Terry

Disney, Mom n me and karrot has Double jerseyConstruction while Zero has single jerseyconstruction.

Yarn count for cotton in mothercare Bibs are 43Ne and 20.6 Ne , For disney it is 41.3 Ne, 41.8 Neand 42.2 Ne, for Zero it is 51.9 Ne, For Karrot itis 50.9 Ne and Mom n me it is 44.4 Ne.

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The wales and courses per inch haveconsiderable variations from brand to brand.

All the bibs meet the standards for minimumbursting strength with mothercare having the

least bursting strength of 60 psi.

Disney bib crosses the limit of Accepted pHvalue.

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Analysis of Testing Reports Sleeping Suit

Fibre Content of all the Five Brands (Zero, Mom nMe, Disney, Zara, Mothercare)* is 100% cotton.

The bursting Strength is more than the requiredminimum strength.[1]

All sleeping suits have interlock structure with countvarying from 40.5 Ne[2] to 46.3 Ne.[3]

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Density of fabric is similar as wales and coursesper inch does not vary much.

The GSM of the fabric varies from 172.6[1] to218.8[2].

The ph according to standards should be acidicbut mothercare crosses the limit with the ph of7.5.

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Analysis of Testing Reports PYJAMAS Cotton dominates the fibre content with 3-4

percent of Elastane and Spandex in Mom n meand Mothercare pyjamas respectively.

Type of construction used are Single Jersey nad

interlock fabrics.

The count for interlock fabrics is 30s , 40s and50s

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The count for single jersey fabrics are 20s.

The variations in wales and courses per inch arequite evident.

The lowest GSM being 143.5[1] and highest being

199.7[2] of the same brand.

The lead content was detected in Mom n me Pyjama. The pH of the Zero, Mom n me and karrot pyjamas

exceeds the limit and fall in alkaline pH.

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T-Shirt

The only fiber used in making of T-shirts is

100% Cotton.

The two constructions used for knitting are

Interlock and Single jersey.

Wales and Courses per inch vary considerablyfrom brand to brand.

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The bursting strength meets the standardrequirement of 55 psi.

Formaldehyde is not detected .

Except two pyjamas of mothercare and zero all

other pyjamas exceed the limits of standard pH.

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Recommendations

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FABRICPRODUCT PROBLEM RECOMMEND

ATION

REASON

T-shirts - Fabric used ismostly 100%cotton, with tracesof lycra and

spandex in some

- T-shirt with snap button shouldbe replaced withthe one having

more neck girthso there is noneed of SnapButtons.

- Extra cloth onone of shouldermakes it difficultfor infant to wear

it for long timeand one of theside is alwaysheavy.[1]

Bibs - Velcro Shouldnot be used

- Velcro used insome of the bibs

should beupgraded to SatinVelcro.

- Soft satin Velcroshould be used

because the hooksin it are very smalland Smooth ascompared tonormal Velcro.

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PRODUCT PROBLEM RECOMMENDATION

REASON

T-shirts - One-sideOpening at theshoulder withattached snapbutton is bulky

and uneven inthickness.

- T-shirt with snap button shouldbe replaced withthe one havingmore neck girth

so there is noneed of SnapButtons.

- Extra cloth onone of shouldermakes it difficultfor infant to wearit for long time

and one of theside is alwaysheavy.[1]

Bibs - Velcro Shouldnot be used

- Velcro used insome of the bibsshould beupgraded to SatinVelcro.

- Soft satin Velcroshould be usedbecause the hooksin it are very smalland Smooth ascompared tonormal Velcro.

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PRODUCT PROBLEM RECOMMENDATION

REASON

Sleeping suit -Side opening

should not beused much.[1]

- Sleeping Suitmeant forchildren above 1

yr doesnt havegrip at feet.

-Front opening

should be usedreplacing the sideopening.

- Rubber gripshould be given at

the feet for infantabove 1 yr.

-Ease of Diaper

changing andComfort to a Babyare two importantreasons for it.[2]- Grips arerequired above 1

yr because a childtries to standfrom this age andthus need an gripto stand withoutslipping.[3]

Pyjamas - All pyjamas doesnot have enoughspace toaccumalate adiapercomfortably.

- An extra panelshould be addedat crotch area sothat diaper can fitin comfortably.

- Addition of such

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Seam Analysis Seam is defined as the application of series of

stitches or stitch type to one or several thickness of

material.(BS: 3890)

Seam Strength depends on:

1. Fabric type and weight2. Thread type and size3. Stitch and seam construction4. Stitches per inch

5. Stitch balance

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Significance in Infants Garments Seam engineering, the determination of the best

stitch type, seam, and thread type which should

be used for particular assembly, requiresthrough knowledge of many variables.

The characteristics of a properly constructed

sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability,security and appearance. All of these parametersare to be taken care of while selecting the properseams for the garments studied.

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Requirements for Infant Essentials Seam strength is and important factor which has

to be taken care of while selecting the seam for

the products. Essential wear requires good seam strength as

they are daily wear garments and are thoroughlywashed.

The strength of the seam should depend on thestrength of the fabric as it should be less thanfabrics bursting strength.

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Requirements for Infant Essentials Elasticity is the most important factor and it has

to be taken care due to following reasons:

With the growth of baby, its movement starts toget rigorous and rapid.

The seam should be such that it provides the

maximum elasticity so that no movement of aninfant be restricted because of the rigidness inthe seam configuration.

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Elasticity Elasticity of any seam depends on the following factors:

1. Fabric type and strength2. Seam type3. Stitch type4. Thread tension5. Thread elasticity Elasticity involves two factors, elongation and recovery.

Seam elasticity is the degree that a seam recovers to itsoriginal length immediately after elongation.

If seam does not elongate as much as fabric the threadand stitches usually break.

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Elasticity Highly elastic stitches include 103, 401, 406,

503, 504, 512, 514 and 516. The 504 three thread

over-edge stitch provides maximum attainableextendibility.(Carr & Latham)

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Security of Seams Security of the seam is must in infants garment

as unravelling may pose threat to their life.

Many a times poorly secured seam get tangled infingers of a baby thus restricting the bloodcirculation and leading to fatal injuries.

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Flexibility Seam flexibility affects the comfort and abrasion

resistance of apparel. Flexible seams allow for

more body conformity and movement. Rigid seams can cause body discomfort and

irritation.

A flexible seam is able to bend, shift and foldwithout damage to the seam or distortion to thesilhouette of the garment.

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Type of Seams Recommended for the

products studied BIBS:

Bibs are the essential garments which are hung

from the neck of the baby. It generally has two ply of fabric which is

stitched together.

Front part of the bib should be over-locked with3-thread over-lock, preferably 504.

A binding must be given through out edge whichshould be stitched with chain cover-stitch, 406.

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The satin velcros attached should be stitchedwith SNLS, 301 and should be rounded in shape.

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Sleeping Suit

Sleeping suit is meant to be worn at night butmothers sometimes use it as a body suit to cover

their babies. The best sleeping suit is one with minimum

seams.

Since the fabric used is knitted fabric, seams aredone by sergers.

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Sleeping Suit

514 for the side seams, shoulder, sleeve andbooties attachment and using the multi needle

chainstitch i.e. coverstitch for hemmings andsewing the binding all over the raw edges,preferably 406.

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BIBS Fabric : Knit terry, 80% cotton 20% polyester.

100% PEVA (polyethylene vinylacetate)waterproof sheet should be used

Bibs, an indispensable part of babies' and toddlers' wardrobes, keepthe clothing clean when feeding.

The best fabrics for bibs are soft, absorbent types, includingterrycloth, flannel and medium to heavy cotton. Fabrics used in bibsneed to be easy to wash and dry.

Shoulder strap should be wide to make it stand on the shoulder.

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BIBS

Knit terry cloth is similar to French terry cloth, but Frenchterry cloth can be knit or woven.

To make knit terry cloth, interlocking loops of one or morestrands of yarn are bound together. That being said, knitterry is otherwise identical in its properties to French terry.

It is soft, stretchy and absorbent.

Typically, it is made of 100 percent cotton. However, it canalso be made of bamboo, polyester or linen, or have anelement of added stretch with a Lycra or spandex blend.

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Reasons for choosing Terry Cloth Terry cloth is more absorbent than other knitted clothes.

It is easy to wash and dry.

One of its sides is flat, while the other side is with cross loops. It iseither 100% cotton or contains polyester with elastaine (lycra). It isoften warp knitted, and the term French Terry is colloquially usedfor all warp knitted Terry.

It is the length of loops that determines how much fluid is absorbedby the cloth as longer loops provide more surface area to absorb andcome in contact with the fluid.

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Bibs Trim : Rib 1*1

Thread: T 24

Velcro : Satin , soft hook and loopfastner ( satin velcro).

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Sleeping suit Fabric : Interlock fabric, 70% cotton 30% viscose. The booties

attached should be made with single jersey fabric

-Interlock have an identical appearance on front and rear surfacethey are double surfaced.

-It provides a better heat insulation since there is a layer of air

between front and rearsurfaces. It keeps warmer compared to other single yarn knittedfabrics.

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Sleeping Suit -Humidity removal property of interlock knitted

fabrics is higher since it has a bulk

structure.

-Along with this, binding on the neck should begiven.

- Grips on the booties for the size above 1year

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Sleeping suit Trim : Rib 1*1 or interlock for binding

Thread: T 24 (for overlock

and for flatlock texturedmonofilament thread

Snap Button: Nickel free snap

fastners from ykk

Mobilon tape: for shoulder support

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Pyjama Fabric : 65-35 cotton viscose blend, Single

jersey.

Stretch value is highest in single jerseys which isrequired in pyjamas for infants because of theirrigorous movements.

Cost effective

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Pyjamas Trim :

Thread: Perma Kool T 24 (for overlock andflatlock monofilament thread and for

snls z twisted thread)Elastics : Shrink Resistant, BHT free

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T-shirts

Fabric : Interlock fabric, 70% cotton 30% viscose.

- Interlock have an identical appearance on front andrear surface they are double surfaced.

- Humidity removal property of interlock knitted fabricsis higher since it has a bulkstructure.

- Binding on the neck should be given.

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Pyjama Fabric : 65-35 cotton viscose blend, Single

jersey.

Stretch value is highest in single jerseys which isrequired in pyjamas for infants because of theirrigorous movements.

Cost effective

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Pyjamas Trim :

Thread: Perma Kool T 24

Elastics : Shrink Resistant, BHT free

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T-shirts

Fabric : Interlock fabric, 70% cotton 30% viscose.

- Interlock have an identical appearance on front and rear surface they are doublesurfaced.

- Humidity removal property of interlock knitted fabrics is higher since it has a bulkstructure.

- Binding on the neck should be given.

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T-shirts Trim : Rib 1*1 or interlock for binding

Thread: Perma Kool T 24

Mobilon tape: for shoulder support

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STUDY OF FEDERAL LAWS Each and every product made in most of the

western countries has to comply with the

countries laws.

Adherence to meet the standards for thatparticular product is strictly regulated and manyrecalls of products had been there for theproducts not meeting the standards or posingany safety hazard.

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STUDY OF FEDERAL LAWS In India, there are no such laws made for

apparels excluding the few such as size

designations for infant and child clothing,Guideliness on care labelling etc.

Safety issue is of high importance in infantsgarment and their have to be some sorts of lawstaking care of the subject.

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STUDY OF FEDERAL LAWS In absence of Indian standard we have

thoroughly gone through the standards and

guidelines by the British Government, CPSC,and have used it as a basis of the Safety/Qualitymanual developed.

Some laws which are studied are directly relatedto infants and childrens apparels while some arein general.

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THANK YOU