SKININC MAGAZINE

Top 5 Hair Removal Trends

Posted: October 12, 2012

Leading waxing specialist Katherine Goldman has over 10 years of experience as a licensed esthetician. She is the founder of Stript Wax Bar, a modern waxing boutique that has five locations across Los Angeles and the Bay Area, and offers the top 5 hair removal trends.

1. Brazilians are here to stay! The Brazilian wax is truly a phenomenon and is not going away anytime soon. More and more people are falling in love with this waxing and consider it an important part of their beauty routine.

2. Vajazzling. Vajazzling is the application of Swarovski Crystals to the skin, usually in a pattern such as a heart or a star to adorn the area in an attractive way. Vasparkling is similar to a temporary tattoo in that a template is placed on the skin and a medical grade skin adhesive is applied. Afterward, this multicolored glitter is added to glue to form the pattern and complete the look. *Stript offers both Vajazzling and Vasparkling to enhance the look of any body area that has been waxed.

3. Quality is in. As waxing becomes more popular, people are looking to make sure they are receiving the highest quality of service. There is a lot that can go wrong at a waxing appointment so people are now making sure they go to a salon that specializes in quality waxing services. That means no double dipping the wax sticks!

4. Hair reduction treatments. Combine your waxing with a hair reduction treatment such as the Depilar System. This product, when combined with waxing, reduces the amount of hair that grows and is completely painless for the client

5. Hard wax. Hard wax is great for sensitive body areas such as the face and bikini. This wax adheres only to hair and shrink-wraps around it, lifting it cleanly out of the root. It can minimize irritation and is better for sensitive skin.

9 Tips to Attract Laser Hair Removal Clients

By: Elise Oberliesen

Posted: October 27, 2010, from the November 2010 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

Women are hard-pressed to give up pricey lipsticks, even during hard times, and this mindset migrates into other beauty realms, as well. Even during the recent recession, thriving laser hair removal spas and clinics reported back-to-back appointments, little time for lunch and additional staffing needs.

Consider the following tips that will have clients tossing their razors and frequenting your spa.

1. Save clients money

Debbie Kenney, RN, owner of Affordable Laser, LLC, in Broomfield, Colorado, is a master of providing creative pricing models and referral incentives. She advertises savings in real money. With each $25 referral bonus, it’s clear why daughters bring their mothers and mothers bring their co-workers to her clinic. “One of our biggest sources of business is personal referrals,” Kenney says. “It is about exceeding expectations and letting your client do your referrals for you.”

Twice a year, she offers a buy-four-get-two-free option, and that means hundreds in savings that drives increased client appointment bookings, she says. Clients patiently wait and cheerfully anticipate the cost savings. “They are real deals; it’s not $5 off,” Kenney explains.

2. Upfront pricing

Although some may consider it a risky move, Kenney divulges her price list online. Some believe too much information could scare clients away, but if they cannot afford multiple treatments, Kenney knows that in six months time, they likely will disappear. Upfront pricing allows clients to determine whether six or eight treatments

fit their budgets, and that helps them plan for desired services. “Some spas want clients to come in because they know they are ready to do it now. If the prices are too high, the clients will still pay because they are excited, even though they perhaps cannot afford a total package of six treatments,” says Kenney.

3. Spend advertising dollars online

Elaine Greenberg, owner of Charlotte, North Carolina-based Ageless Remedies Med Spa and Laser Center, considers innovative ways to enhance her growing business. From blogging about the latest trends in laser hair removal to Facebook updates, she is convinced that the cyber landscape is vital to reaching new clients. After hiring a marketing expert with search engine optimization (SEO) expertise, Greenberg then enlisted price-per-click advertising with Google AdWords. Shortly after, her phone began to ring and appointment bookings increased. Greenberg estimates Google AdWords costs her business in the ballpark of about $2,000 per month.

As for sales volume, she says it’s beyond her expectations. “The return-on-investment is so huge, it is worth every penny. It is targeted advertising,” Greenberg says. Although she would not disclose her actual sales revenue, she did say she has doubled—if not tripled—her client volume, and attributes the growth directly to her website and new online advertising strategy.

4. Hire a marketing professional

Nick Zivolich co-owns Florida-based No Limit Marketing & Advertising, a business that helps clients grow their businesses with marketing and advertising campaigns. Armed with his strategic advice, Zivolich helps laser hair removal business owners zap the competition by suggesting low-cost and no-cost advertising ideas. Although it requires upfront spending, he says that when done correctly, marketing and advertising investments often help spas recoup those dollars through the acquisition of new clients.

Is it necessary to work with an ad or marketing agency with spa-specific experience? “If an agency has experience bringing results to other similar businesses, then it absolutely makes sense,” Zivolich says. With two medical spa clients, he was able to create turnkey marketing plans that adjust to his other medical spa clients, as well. But finding such experience isn’t always possible. Trust is the most vital component when working with a marketing professional. Pick a professional who presents a sound game plan, has done the homework and makes you feel as though they will help you maximize your return on investment, says Zivolich.

5. Opt for low- or no-cost ads

Who said nothing in life is free? That was before social media. “There’s no question that all businesses should take advantage of social media. Anything you can do for free to promote your business should be done,” Zivolich says.

When establishing a Facebook page, he recommends weekly updates. Entice clients into the spa with free laser hair removal giveaways, such as free eyebrow or bikini wax touch-ups, contests or $20-off online coupons. “Do not offer percent-off coupons; hard numbers are the way to go. People are using coupons more than ever,” Zivolich says. In the past, Kenney has offered each client $40 off a laser hair removal service for contributing 15 canned good items during a holiday food drive.

6. Offer value-adds

With the sensitive bikini and underarm areas, a little pain relief goes a long way during laser hair removal treatments. That’s why Greenberg makes topical pain relief available to all her clients at no extra charge. “We try to make it as painless as possible,” Greenberg says.

7. Extend hours and staff

Realize the cyclical demands of laser hair removal. In February, try to plan ahead for the high volume experienced from March through August. Kenney races the clock to meet demand before the summer months. She says there are never enough hours in a day during bikini season. Greenberg used to operate with three full-time medically trained estheticians, but due to increased client volume, she had to hire a part-time esthetician to help meet the demand. Increasing staff allowed her to increase sales volume and meet the needs of clients who required evening appointments. Now Ageless Remedies remains open until 7 pm twice a week.

8. Consider radio advertising

Radio ads can help the audience dial into your laser hair removal concept in a unique way. For one of Florida’s large hair removal clinics with operations in other states, Zivolich has seen strong success in the use of engagement ads. An example of this type of ad is having a DJ schedule a laser hair removal procedure on his back—while on-air. Then he incorporates his experience into regular programming. Although DJs take on the brunt of jokes during air-time, all that talk about smooth skin, or why manscaping is in vogue, gets listeners excited, says Zivolich.

But radio isn’t cheap. “If you’re in a top-20 market, such as New York, Los Angeles or Miami, broadcast media is going to cost more. The minimum monthly fee should be about $2,500, at least,” Zivolich says.

9. Tap into new clients

Spa owners and laser clinics that begin targeting previously overlooked populations may be in for more clients. Zivolich suggests designing ad campaigns and marketing plans that target specific demographics—age, gender, race and cultural norms. “If your competitors are not talking to them, then you could have 100% of the market share,” he says.

Sun spots may not matter much to the 20-something crowd, but 40-somethings may perk up when they hear about or see the dramatic results achieved from laser technology. People from cultures that take special care to beautify the body may be another source of target marketing, says Zivolich.

An adaptive mindset

Consumer demand will continually shift. Methods for capturing new laser hair removal clients can seem hard to pin down, but having an adaptive mindset will help you manage all the changes, and even create new opportunities. Business growth rarely happens by accident. Knowing which trends to pay attention to can help you reach the right audience, and lead with the kind of knowledge that will make you successful.

Elise Oberliesen is a health writer from the Denver area who writes for major newspapers, magazines and websites.

The Evolution of Hair Removal

By: Terri Wojak

Posted: January 5, 2011, from the January 2011 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

Retail Tips: The Evolution of Hair Removal

History demonstrates that hair removal methods have been around for a long time. When most people think of evolution, they automatically picture a hairy caveman; however, hair removal has been around since the Stone Age, approximately 10,000 BC, from which there are ancient paintings showing cavemen using two seashells as tweezers.

As far back as 30,000 BC, flint, a hard form of mineral quartz with sharp edges, was used as a shaving device. Technology has come a long way since then. One example is laser hair removal systems that have been developed to permanently reduce the amount of hair that grows. According to the American Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, laser hair removal is the third most popular nonsurgical cosmetic procedure performed in the United States,and according to www.surgery.org, the organization’s website, there were 1,280,031 laser hair removal procedures performed in 2009. Even though hair removal has evolved since the Stone Age, it still has a long way to go. New devices are constantly being developed that are more effective and easier to use than what was available as recently as several years ago.

Hair removal in society

There are many times when society has made hair removal popular. In a 1915 edition ofHarper’s Bazaar magazine, a model was featured showing bare shoulders and underarms. This prompted the Wilkinson Sword company, which made razor blades for men, to design a campaign convincing women that underarm hair was neither feminine nor hygienic. Within two years, the sales of razor blades doubled, and now removing underarm hair has become the norm for North American women. In the 1920s and 1930s, Hollywood starlets were removing their

eyebrows so they could draw thin, exaggerated brows with makeup pencils. Taking their fashion cues from the movies, many women followed suit, and having arched eyebrows is still popular today. These are only a few examples where removing hair has made its mark in history.

Shaving

One of the most ancient and popular methods of hair removal is shaving, which is a relatively easy process, especially with today’s shaving devices. Similar to ancient times when flint was used, most consumers use disposable razors, replacing them often as the edges become dull. In 1901, Gillette, with help from a Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) engineer, developed the safety razor with blades that were disposable and replaceable. The company received a patent for it in 1904, and left its mark on history as the company to use for shaving when, during World War I, it made a deal with the U.S. Armed Forces to provide the safety razor and blades to all enlisted men going to Europe. In 1927, the first electric dry shaver with oscillating blades was invented by Colonel Jacob Schick, and was made available in 1929 to consumers. Despite the low cost involved upfront, shaving is time-consuming. On average, a woman who shaves her legs will spend a total of 225 hours—nine days and nine hours—on the task during a five-year span.

Depilation

The use of chemical depilatories dates back to 4,000–3,000 BC when people used the first chemical depilatory called rhusma. This blend contained harsh chemicals, such as caustic lime and arsenic. Other depilatories used in the past contained resin, white vine or ivy gum extracts. Many of today’s depilatories contain the powerful ingredient calcium thioglycolate, which works by destroying the protein structure of hair, reducing its texture and strength. Because of its widespread marketing campaign in the mid 1980s—“If you dare wear short shorts, Nair for short shorts”—Nair remains the best known hair removal lotion. Chemical depilatories are still widely used today, but their results don’t last long, and they can be irritating to the skin, especially in sensitive areas.

Threading

Threading is an ancient method of hair removal that has been around for hundreds of years; most often referenced in what is now modern-day Iran, Turkey and India. There are many thoughts as to where this method of hair removal originated, the most popular being in ancient Persia and Turkey. In ancient Persia, body hair removal was a rite of passage and signaled passing from girlhood to womanhood. Only married women were allowed to do it, and it was a significant ritual. This service is performed by looping a cotton thread around multiple hairs at a time to remove them from the follicle. If done correctly, this method can provide results that last around 4–6 weeks, similar to waxing. Some prefer this service to others because there is little-to-no irritation on the epidermis. It can still have some of the same side effects as other methods of hair removal, including folliculitis, which is inflammation of the hair follicle. Clients who prefer threading to other methods typically have it done on facial areas such as the eyebrows, lips and peach fuzz. Threading can remove an entire row of hair at a time resulting in a straighter line than tweezing, so it is a great treatment for shaping the eyebrows. If done by a trained professional, it truly is an art.

Waxing

Waxing dates back to the ancient Egyptians, where the wives of the pharaohs removed hair with sticky emulsions made of oil and honey. This technique is similar to a form of waxing called sugaring that is still commonly used. South American women would wax hair using secretions from the coco de mono tree. In the 1960s, waxing was rediscovered with the invention of the bikini wax, and in 1994, the Brazilian bikini wax was introduced by The J. Sisters International Salon in Manhattan, and is one of the most requested waxing services today. Waxing remains a good treatment, and it is effective for those who want longer-lasting results, but are unable to receive other hair removal procedures.

For example, in the case of eyebrow waxing, laser is unable to be performed because it is too close to the eye, and it is not possible to shape the eyebrows effectively given the size of most laser hair removal tips. Waxing as well as dermaplaning are also great methods for removing vellus hair, commonly called “peach fuzz.” When waxing is done properly, the hair should not grow back for about four to six weeks. The downside of waxing is that it can be time-consuming, expensive and frustrating because of the need to let the hair grow out between treatments.

Electrolysis

Electrolysis is a form of hair removal that was developed in 1875 by Missouri ophthalmologist Charles E. Michel, MD, when he started using a surgical needle with galvanic current to treat ingrown eyelashes. Electrolysis is still performed by many licensed individuals, although after the invention of laser hair removal, this method is not preferred by most. Electrolysis still has its place for those that require a couple of hairs to be removed from a particular area, including unwanted hairs on the chin. It is the only method available for permanent removal on nonpigmented hair, since there is no laser yet available that can treat blonde, red or gray hair effectively. The treatments can be very tedious because the technician can only treat one hair at a time, which can be painful for the client. Also, there are some risks associated with this method that can deter patients from considering the procedure, including hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, infection and even scarring.

Laser hair removal

In 1995, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved the first laser hair removal device, the Nd:YAG. This device is still an effective laser for hair removal, but now is most often used for patients with darker skin because the light travels deeper into the dermis and reduces the chances of hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation, a possible complication with clients with darker skin tones. Later in the early 2000s, many other laser devices were cleared for the use of laser hair reduction including ruby, alexandrite and diode lasers. Intense pulsed light (IPL) is also widely used for hair removal, although visible light lasers have been proven to be more effective because there is more energy directed at the target—the pigment in the hair follicle.

Although there have been many effective hair removal devices, traditionally there have been drawbacks to all of them. Some lasers have very small spot sizes, resulting in laser hair removal sessions that can take up to four hours, depending on the size of the area being treated. Comfort has also been a big issue—with the older laser devices, patients would often need a topical numbing agent to ease the pain of the treatment. Although there are cooling tips on many of the devices now, it can still be painful to some, especially those with dark, coarse hair. Now, there are hair removal lasers that have larger spot sizes, so treatments can be done in minutes as opposed to hours, and there are new ways to reduce the amount of pain as well. One such device utilizes suction to effectively eliminate blood, allowing the energy to focus on the melanin in the follicle. It also distracts the nerve so the patient doesn’t feel the sharp heat normally associated with these treatments. (Editor’s note: In most states, physicians are required to perform laser hair removal services, or be on site when laser hair removal services are taking place. Before offering these treatments in your spa, be sure to check your state’s requirements. Click here for each state board’s direct contact information.)

At-home hair removal systems

There are now even at-home hair removal systems using laser light. One option uses a diode laser, but there are other devices available including one that uses pulsed light enhanced by an acoustic effect. These systems must be sold by a physician with strict instructions for the patient. One drawback is that the amount of energy used in these devices does not compare to what can be administered in a medical office, so there is some controversy about whether or not they are effective. If there is not enough energy deposited into the follicle, the hair will not be destroyed. There are also risks associated with patients having these devices at home. Some may overdo it and others may use it when inappropriate, such as after tanning.

Continued growth

The future of hair removal is unknown, but it is continually evolving. There will always be a place for hair removal in society, including the methods that have been around since the Stone Age. It is a billion-dollar industry that is expected to enjoy continued growth. Even in the down economy of 2009, nearly 1.3 million laser hair removal treatments were performed, at an average national cost of $331 per treatment. What this means is that hair removal technology can be a strong investment to bring into your spa or medical spa. Consider making one or many of today’s hair removal options available to your clients.

GENERAL REFERENCES

KC Gillette, The People’s Corporation, Boni and Liveright, New York (1924)

www.harpersbazaar.com/magazine/140-years/bazaar-140-0307

inventors.about.com/library/inventors/blrazor.htm

www.naircare.com

www.docshop.com/2010/07/19/the-evolution-of-laser-hair-removal

www.beautyworlds.com/cultureofirantext.htm

(All accessed Oct 19, 2010)

Terri Wojak is a licensed esthetician with more than 14 years of experience and has knowledge of all aspects of the skin care industry, including education, sales, medical aesthetics, management and ownership. She is the director, as well as an educator, at True University Esthetics in Chicago.

Men's Waxing is Big Business

By: Andy Rouillard

Posted: August 29, 2012, from the September 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

Author Andy Rouillard performs an eyebrow wax on a male client.

How-to: Male Back Waxing

Editor’s note: As always, it is imperative for skin care professionals to receive the proper training before adding any new services to their spa menu. This article is based on Rouillard’s upcoming class, “Men’s Intimate Body Waxing,” taking place during the Advanced Education Conference Program at Face & Body Northern California, at the McEnery Convention Center in San Jose, California, on October 6. To register, log on towww.FaceandBody.com/california/register. Also, check out the companion video from the authordemonstrating a male nostril wax!

Throughout the globe, male waxing is increasing in popularity as men turn to skin care professionals in the fight against unwanted body hair. From wayward brows to hobbit toes and everything in between, guys have been shaving, creaming, plucking and trimming unruly hair in the privacy of their own homes for years.

The fact remains, however, that all of these methods can be time-consuming and only provide smoothness for a few days before the dreaded itch of regrowth sets in.

Fortunately, male waxing is a quick and easy way of temporarily removing unwanted body hair without the mess and fuss of creams or razors. The results not only last longer, but also provide a built-in bonus for technicians since hair has a habit of growing back.

The demographic

Although waxing has always been prevalent within various sectors of the sporting community, the past few years have seen its popularity rocket outside of this arena among guys of all ages and backgrounds. Spurred on by media interest in fuzz-free celebrities—from film stars to sports personalities—chaps throughout the Western world are increasingly taking the plunge and booking themselves in for a spot of hair removal. The trend appears set to continue as more and more men realize that good grooming extends beyond the hair on their head, with waxing becoming one of the most sought-after spa services by male clients.

From builders to bankers, the personal reasons for waxing are as many and diverse as the guys who get it done.

Many guys find that being hair-free feels cleaner, cooler and more comfortable, especially during the summer months.

Other clients are embarrassed about their body hair, or they or their partners may simply prefer the smooth look.

On a practical level, a hairless body often has sports-related benefits for swimmers, athletes and cyclists, making waxing a great add-on service for personal trainers, massage therapists and sports therapists. Make connections with these professionals to provide male waxing services for their existing clients.

Guys with piercings and tattoos are also a captive audience, because waxing allows them to show off their artwork to its full potential, rather than hiding it under a bushel of hair.

Waxing of intimate areas heightens sensitivity … say no more.

Although hairy backs and furry shoulders are still the most popular areas chosen for deforestation (SeeHow-to: Male Back Waxing), an increasing number of men are opting for more extreme hair removal in the form of Brazilian waxing. This eyebrow-raising treatment has never been more popular ... but one step at a time. If you rarely work with male clients, the thought of slathering hot wax over a hairy back might fill you with trepidation; however, a little insider knowledge goes a long way in making the whole experience less painful for both you and your clients.

Whether you are a seasoned pro or just starting out and don’t know your strip from your spatula, hands-on training in male-specific techniques is available from several providers. Always look for trainers with commercial experience in providing hair removal services for men, because they will be able to give advice not just on technique, but also on pricing, marketing and retailing. In the meantime, here are a few tips to get you started.

The essentials

Your basic waxing technique will stay the same, regardless of the client’s gender or body part, but some extra considerations should be kept in mind for male clients.

Most areas of the male body can be waxed safely, with the exception of the scalp and the beard. Although it is okay to remove the odd stray hair on the throat and upper cheeks to create a tidy beard line, men’s facial hair is particularly coarse and strong. In addition to the process being extremely painful, there is a real risk of infection and scarring if you try to wax the beard area. For these reasons, it is not recommended.

If this is your client’s first wax, take time to explain the procedure and answer any questions he may have before slapping on the goo. Remember that most new male clients are likely to feel nervous—especially if their only point of reference is the film The 40-Year-Old Virgin—so those few extra minutes can really make a difference to the client’s comfort, confidence and expectations.

Trim long hair with electric clippers or scissors before you start. You’ll be able to see the direction of growth much easier, and this will also prevent the hair from becoming matted in the wax. Approximately 1 cm long is ideal.

Tell the client what you’re doing every step of the way. You know when and why you need to cleanse the skin, how hot the wax feels, and why oil and after-wax lotion is applied, but most first-time waxees won’t know any of this, so don’t leave him guessing.

When it comes to hair, all men are not created equal. Consider having a flexible price that allows you to adapt it according to how hairy the client is and how long the treatment takes.

Finally, a plea on behalf of the brotherhood: Please be nice. Yes, we know that womankind have been waxing their legs without complaint for years, but girls get colds and boys get man flu. Men’s hair is generally denser and coarser than female counterparts and, whichever way you cut it, waxing hurts. A little “tea and sympathy” goes a long way toward making men feel at ease and persuading them to come back for more.

Marketing

Whether women or men are your target demographic, marketing is a must. Following are some marketing must-haves to appeal to male waxing clients.

Think about your male market in the widest possible terms: Ask yourself who might prefer to be hair-free for comfort, confidence, improved aesthetics or sports-related reasons, and then, go where the men are.

Advertise with and offer client incentives to local gyms and sports clubs, swimming pools, piercing and tattoo studios, wedding outfitters, barbers and hairdressers, sports retail outlets, health centers and dance studios.

A website is a must. Men will often perform a web search for services before making an initial inquiry. In this day and age, any skin care facility or professional that isn’t on the Web is pretty much invisible to the majority of potential male clients.

List your male grooming services separately from your female treatments. This simple distinction will make male clients feel more catered to and more welcome, as a result.

Consider adding treatment codes to your price list, like a carry-out menu. This allows male clients to book an appointment without the embarrassment of others overhearing what they are having done.

Don’t forget to advertise your men’s waxing services to female clients … the power of female persuasion is not to be underestimated.

After-care

Your usual home-care advice applies, and it is good practice to provide all clients with written instructions to take home and read. Following are some pointers to remember in regard to after-care for your male waxing clients.

The back and chest areas are particularly prone to infection and may experience acnelike breakouts in the days following treatment, especially with first-timers. Make your clients aware of this possibility, and retail an antibacterial cleanser or lotion to help prevent and treat any pimples.

Men generally perspire more than women. Freshly waxed follicles, sweat and friction from clothing are not a happy combination, so definitely recommend against gym, sport or other vigorous exercise for the 24 hours following the service.

A quick buff with an exfoliating mitt or body scrub twice a week will help prevent ingrown hair. For stubborn spots, a product containing salicylic acid is an excellent retail opportunity, and your clients can also use this to treat any razor bumps in the beard area.

Remember to book clients in advance for their next appointment in 4–6 weeks. Explain the importance of keeping to a regular schedule and, if you’ve done all you can to make this a first-class experience, he could become a waxing client for life.

The future of male waxing

With no sign of waxing waning in popularity, what does the future hold? One thing is certain: Male waxing is big business, and guys are currently traveling many miles to find a skin care professional who is willing and able to perform the service. Once they discover for themselves the benefits of having smooth, hair-free skin, men become very loyal clients and will return year-round for their monthly de-fuzzing.

For skin care professionals with an open mind, a steady hand and a healthy sense of humor, male waxing can be an extremely lucrative and rewarding profession, and is a valuable addition to many a treatment menu. Of course, you should never feel pressured into offering a particular service if you really don’t want to. However, it is worth asking: If your existing male clients, or the partners and friends of female clients, are currently going elsewhere to get their hair removal treatments—whether this be another spa or their own bathroom—are you missing a trick?

Andy Rouillard is an award-winning international educator, ambassador for Perron Rigot waxes and owner of Axiom Bodyworks in England. As one of the United Kingdom’s leading authorities on the art of male waxing, Rouillard is a regular contributor to the trade and consumer press, a beauty awards judge, an industry consultant, and the author of several published articles and textbook chapters about hair removal. Additional waxing tips and tricks from Rouillard are available on Twitter: @wax_daddy orwww.facebook.com/learnmalewaxing.

Hyping Up Hair Removal

By Cathy Christensen

Posted: June 20, 2007

Body hair is a prevalent issue for the spa-going public, and its removal translates into one of the most lucrative services available. Practicing under the “if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it” concept, hair removal methods basically have remained the same for some time, with the most popular ones usually being waxing, electrolysis and laser hair removal. This isn’t breaking news—in fact, most spas offer at least one of these techniques due to their high demand and amazing return-on-investment. “Hair removal is a huge part of esthetics and cosmetology,” explains Lori Nestore, otherwise known as The Wax Queen. “All the methods—new and not so new—have only made hair removal bigger due to simple exposure to the joy of being hairless.” Because of the increasing popularity and presence of these techniques, you must identify ways to distinguish your business and its hair removal treatments from the spa’s down the street. Bottom line: The extras make all the difference. From cooling devices to ceiling-hung TVs, spas are making hair removal a better encounter every day.

Waxing Waxing is a temporary hair removal method that involves pulling hair out from the root, resulting in hairless areas for three to eight weeks. Most of the body can be waxed, including the back, bikini area, legs and eyebrows.1

Comfort amenities can be provided to waxing clients in order to transform what many view as an uncomfortable-yet-necessary experience into an almost enjoyable one.

Comfort amenities. From pain-relieving creams to waxes featuring aromatherapeutic benefits, the waxing experience is becoming more pleasant. Over-the-counter and professional topical numbing creams and sprays are available containing lidocaine and benzocaine, which help take the sting out of waxing if applied 15–20 minutes before the service.2

Many waxes are beginning to include specific ingredients to address skin issues, as well. For example, soy is becoming more popular in wax formulas due to its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties. Waxes also are available in an ever-increasing variety of fragrances—from floral to fruity—fostering aromatherapeutic benefits based on the power of scent. Also, consider the environment in which your waxing services are provided. Is it utilitarian, or is it a room that creates an experience? “Make hair removal a ‘treatment,’ not a simple, quick, uncomfortable experience that a person has to do,” encourages Michelle D’Allaird, CIDESCO diplomate and owner of the Aesthetic Science Institute in Latham, New York. Consider referencing feng shui and incorporating elements into the room that inspire a sense of peace—running water, fireplaces, a stone path, calming music. Another route is the more modern, more utilitarian one that New York’s Completely Bare subscribes to: TV. Ceiling-hung televisions provide a great distraction for hair removal clients.3

Electrolysis and laser hair removal Electrolysis is electrical epilation for the purpose of permanently removing hair. In this method, an electrologist places an extremely thin metal probe into a hair follicle to deliver electricity that damages the hair-generating areas, either through the galvanic method, which forms caustic lye, or the thermolysis method, which utilizes overheating. These two methods also can be administered separately or blended.4

The most recent introduction into the hair removal market is laser hair removal. Its popularity continues to grow with the increase of medical spas around the country. In fact, the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS) recently identified laser hair removal as the third most popular noninvasive cosmetic procedure for women and the second most popular one for men in 2006.5

The method provides permanent hair removal and, because a large area can be treated at once, it can be cost-effective. A low-energy beam is absorbed by melanin present in the hair follicle shaft. Because hair cycles as it grows, repeated treatments must occur in order to destroy approximately 80% of hair. Ruby, alexandrite and diode were the first lasers approved for hair reduction, and intense pulsed light (IPL) systems also are used, though mainly on light-skinned, dark-haired individuals. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), this is

because dark pigments in the skin cannot absorb the light they emit. Lasers with longer wavelengths, such as the Nd:YAG laser, can treat darker skin types.6

Specific relief for clients who endure permanent hair removal methods comes in the form of cooling devices and time-savers.

Cooling devices. A variety of cooling devices are available, depending on the type of equipment purchased. According to Kile Law, owner of the Skin Inc. magazine Best of the Best award-winning Blue Water Spa in Raleigh, North Carolina, cooling devices are vitally important for improving hair removal offerings. If utilizing a system that doesn’t include a cooling method, a thick layer of cooled, clear gel can be applied before the laser pulses occur.7 Following are a variety of cooling methods available.

Dynamic cooling. This type of device delivers short bursts of cryogen to the skin’s surface automatically every 5–80 milliseconds before the laser pulse occurs.6

“One of the most important things that can be done to make hair removal more pleasant for the client is to use systems equipped with dynamic cooling devices,” says Law. “This method of cooling the skin is safe, consistent and comfortable.” Contact cooling. This utilizes a sapphire-cooled handpiece that is in direct contact with the skin. Before the laser pulse occurs, this device is pressed firmly against the skin. After the laser pulse is delivered, the handpiece is removed and placed firmly on an adjacent site until the entire desired area has been addressed. When using this method, it is crucial to clean the cooling tip every five to ten pulses in order to remove debris, as well as to disinfect the device between clients.7 Cold airflow. Also using a cooling handpiece, this method delivers a constant flow of chilled air to the treated area of the skin’s surface.7

Time-savers. “The truth is, people look forward to the results of their hair removal treatment, but even the most comfortable service is not pleasurable, like a facial or a massage,” Law realistically explains. Because of this, a technician needs to make decisions in order to make the process as pleasant—and usually, as quick—as possible. When it comes to laser hair removal, Blue Water Spa does this by utilizing a larger spot size for the laser pulses. “This results in a more comfortable treatment because it is over more quickly,” says Law.

Technique and time-savers One detail that sets a spa apart time and time again in all hair removal techniques is the quality of the skin care professional administering the treatment. “The biggest advantage is technique,” confirms D’Alliard, and from consultation to treatment to post-care, the professional can make or break a service. “The technician must be skilled in the art of waxing,” emphasizes Nestore. This specialist needs to be aware of a client’s needs in order to take the treatment above and beyond the normal hair removal session. Along with great technique, an overriding knowledge of the procedure, as well as the ability to establish a certain comfort level, is crucial. “To make it more comfortable, estheticians must talk with their clients,” explains Debbie Merhar, owner of Deborah’s Esthetics in Reno, Nevada. “I usually have a story of the week—it takes their mind off the waxing. If you are truly interested in your client and their life, they will know it and want to come back to see you.” Stacy Vinz, CME, of LaserClinic1.com and board member of The Society for Clinical Hair Removal agrees. “Friendliness, a listening ear, and time are what people need,” she confirms.

Post-care Whether experiencing waxing or permanent hair removal, one way to ensure a better overall experience for the client is to be diligent about caring for the skin after the service. One of the most common complaints from clients is how their skin suffers following hair removal treatments. “The technician must educate the client on normal and expected reactions, and how to minimize them with home care,” says Nestore. D’Alliard agrees, “Home care prolongs the effects and makes the results better.” She recommends encouraging before and after exfoliant use, as well as the use of face and body creams, smoothing lotions, AHA products to prevent ingrown hairs and creams that prevent red bumps. Make all of these products available in your spa’s retail area, and be sure to refer clients to them after a service in order to keep these valuable dollars in your business.

Hook, treat and pamper Like all professional spa services, a major point of difference from one spa to the next is the level of training and quality of technique that is being performed by the team members who provide these treatments. “What makes you better than the spa down the street? Because of you. Don’t be afraid to let them know you work for them and are doing the best you can on their behalf,” says Merhar. Along with this, make the hair removal experience as pleasant as possible by incorporating a variety of enhancements, whether through the use of devices and creams to remove the sting or by incorporating soothing environmental touches to help the client escape. It is crucial to be better than the competition in order to continue making your customers—and your accountant—happy. “Our hair removal clients are even more dedicated than our facial clients,” exclaims D’Alliard. “Hook them, treat them and pamper their skin, too.” Remember, it is the little extras that go a long way.

References1 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waxing (Accessed April 30, 2007)2 Get a Perfect Bikini Line, Cosmopolitan,http://magazines.ivillage.com/cosmopolitan/style/features/articles (Accessed April 20, 2007)3 Beauty Black Book: High-Tech Hair Removal, InStyle,http://www.instyle.com/instyle/shops/beautyblackbook/print/0,24155,1166727,00.html(Accessed April 16, 2007)4 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrology (Accessed April 30, 2007)5 11.5 Million Cosmetic Procedures in 2006, The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, http://www.surgery.org/press/news-release.php?iid=465 (Accessed April 30, 2007)6 Laser Hair Removal, American Academy of Dermatology,http://www.aad.org/public/Publications/pamphlets/laserhair.htm (Accessed April 16, 2007)7 Laser Assisted Hair Removal, http://www.emedicine.com/derm/topic562.htm (Accessed May 4, 2007)

New Study Shows Laser Hair Removal Effectiveness

Posted: October 27, 2008

Laser therapies to remove unwanted hair may be safer and more effective when used separately rather than in combination, according to an Iranian study.

The researchers at the Baqiyatallah University of Medical Sciences in Tehran compared the removal of hair on the legs of 15 people using either long-pulsed 755-nanometer alexandrite lasers (12- and 18-millimeter spot sizes), long-pulsed 1,064 nanometer Nd:YAG laser (12-millimeter spot size), or a combination of alexandrite and Nd:YAG 12-millimeter spot size lasers.

The participants received a total of four treatment sessions at eight-week intervals. Average hair density was measured with a hair counting device and special software, and hair reduction was assessed by comparing digital photographs taken before treatment and at eight- and 18-month follow-up sessions.

Average hair reductions 18 months after final treatment were 75.9% for the 12-millimeter spot size alexandrite laser, 84.3% for the 18-millimeter spot size alexandrite laser, 73.6% for the Nd:YAG laser, and 77.8% for the combination therapy. Leg areas that received the alexandrite laser treatments had higher average pain severity than those treated with the Nd:YAG laser. The highest amount of pain occurred in areas that received the combination treatment. Those areas were also most likely to have hyperpigmentation.

"Despite other studies showing more efficacy of the alexandrite rather than the Nd:YAG laser, our trial results showed no significant difference between them," the study authors concluded. "The use of alexandrite or Nd:YAG laser systems alone for at least four treatments sessions and with eight-week intervals have long-term persistent efficacy in hair reduction with acceptable and transient adverse effects."

The study was published in the October issue of the Archives of Dermatology.

More information

The American Academy of Family Physicians has more about excess hair growth and removal.

HealthDay News, October 20, 2008

Hair Removal in Hard Times

By: Abby Penning

Posted: March 27, 2009, from the April 2009 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

Book, wax, repeat—if only hair removal treatments nowadays were so simple. Fierce competition, economic effects and at-home treatments are all factors that have to be considered when weighing those hair removal services on your menu. Add to that the sanitation and training needed to perform waxing, laser, electrolysis, threading or tweezing, and it might just have you wondering whether hair removal offerings are worth keeping.

A look at the client desire for these professional treatments, however, still shows an immense demand. “Hair removal is something that a lot of women aren’t willing to let go by the wayside,” says Nona Daron, co-owner of Flying Beauticians, which has locations in San Francisco and Mill Valley, California. “And it’s women from all different cultures and generations who want that smooth skin and to feel feminine in that way—basically, they want that hair gone.”

The need for multiple, recurring hair removal maintenance treatments is something that is still driving the sales of these services, too. “People want to maintain what they’ve started,” says Ann Derenne, owner of the Skin Tight Medi-Spa & Salon in Colgate, Wisconsin. “If you just let it go, that’s like money out the door.” But more than that, hair removal services tend to be affordable for spa clients, as well as for the spas themselves, and they can easily make a large impact on both. Mandy Ford, operations team leader for the Nuovo Salon Group, three Aveda Lifestyle salons in Sarasota, Florida, says, “Something as simple as a brow waxing and shaping can really help boost morale and confidence for such a small expenditure.” There are a few keys to keeping your hair removal services at the height of demand, and knowing what to watch out for can keep your clients coming in again and again.

Keep clients close

Knowing your clients and the hair removal options they need are the first steps to staying relevant. Ford, whose facilities are in Florida, a popular tourist destination, explains that Nuovo keeps its main local clients in mind at all times. “Although we’re happy to have seasonal clients, the people we see on a regular basis are key for consistency,” she says.

Understanding each and every client, as well as their needs and issues, also comes in handy when creating that all-important relationship of trust, so slacking off on critical questions is a bad idea. “At times, estheticians forget to ask clients if they are taking any medications or using topical ointment treatments that might affect hair removal. Intake forms should be completed each and every time,” Ford says. “All it can take is one bad experience to create a negative impression. As a service provider, you work to build and maintain a high-trust relationship, and finding out the clients’ needs is really part of that. Listening is something that is so essential—consulting with each client is crucial and, believe it or not, spending that one-on-one time with clients creates a point of difference from the rest. The client feels heard and a relationship is created.”

Being aware of how your clients are reacting and responding to economic issues gives you a leg up, too, and helps you prepare better options for your target demographic. “Some clients might be considering trying waxing rather than laser because of the cost per session, or sometimes the pain level differences can cause someone to try something different in hair removal. Some are looking to maintain smaller areas, and that can often be better done with electrolysis,” notes Daron. “It’s still wise to shop around. For some, laser works best, and for others, it’s waxing or electrolysis. It depends on the time, pain tolerance and budget a client has.”

Of course, in order to reap the benefits of clients’ willingness to come in, you have to be both prepared and flexible with your schedule, and new technology can be greatly helpful in this regard. “We are creating and implementing online booking as a service to our clients,” Ford says, explaining how Nuovo consistently informs clients about appointment openings and updates. “Convenience is such a huge factor for everyone, and we are creating a template that will allow us to send out daily e-mails to our client base, letting it know about appointment

opportunities available that day. Then we can tie-in value-added services or incentives if a client schedules an appointment.”

Keeping your clients and their interests close can only benefit you. As Julie McGinn, director of skin education for Gadabout SalonSpas in Tuscon, Arizona, explains, “We try to make all clients know we appreciate that they have chosen us for their personal services and do everything we can to ensure they receive five-star service. We are here for our clients and are happy to see them every time they come in.”

Dollars and deals

Even with the opportunity and desire for hair removal services, some clients still need a little push. This is where you need to get creative, like Blue Water Spa in Raleigh, North Carolina, did. When clients brought in canned goods to donate to the Inter-Faith Food Shuttle, a local anti-hunger organization, the spa offered them discounted treatments. “Our clients, even in this economy, still want to spend money on themselves, still want to look good, but they feel a little bit of guilt about it,” says Kile Law, president and co-owner of Blue Water Spa. “But when they are doing something for others as well as for themselves, it encourages more people to come in. We found that being able to do these little things that add up to something big really enhanced the loyalty of our clients..”

Customizing enticing pricing and packages can be beneficial options for hair removal offerings, and a way to market maintenance treatments. “We offer package deals. If they buy a package for waxing services, they prepay for five sessions and then the sixth is free,” says Daron. “To attract new clients, we sometimes offer 15–20% off for someone’s first service, and people can also come in and do a trial electrolysis session. This helps when someone isn’t sure about the pain or commitment level. First-timers also get free little underwear that say, ‘I Survived My First Brazilian,’ which is fun.”

Keeping your spa and services at the top of clients’ awareness by providing discounts or deals also ensures that they will likely be coming in more often. “I have been continually running specials that help get our name out there. The more consistently these run, the more our name gets out there, the more people see us as an option. It reinforces our visibility and continues to encourage referrals to come in,” says Derenne.

However, package deals and discounts aren’t always for everyone, and it’s important to consider what your goal is when you begin putting them together. In fact, the initial cost of packages may lead some clients to pause. Law says, “It’s a really big upfront investment, and no two people will experience hair removal the same. I like to go treatment by treatment, and if you are confident with your technology and your provider, clients will come back.”

Special pricing and packages aren’t the only money savers you can offer though, and there are techniques that can be used in order to heighten clients’ awareness of different treatment options. For example, employee downtime in the spa doesn’t have to be wasted time. “We encourage our staff to cross-promote to other departments, so giving a hair technician some cards to pass out for a complimentary brow wax is a great way to introduce a new client to a different service,” says McGinn. “We also have skin interns—estheticians who are in our education program—offer complimentary makeup touchups to our hair clients. While doing their makeup consultations, the skin interns are encouraged to speak about facial waxing, and even offer a complimentary brow wax and shape to a client.”

Additionally, Derenne notes, “I do see more add-on services, and that’s a trend with the economy. It’s keeping us all rolling, and everyone is still kind of waiting to get back in a groove. The economy has a lot of people in a holding pattern, waiting to see what’s going to happen, so add-on services do encourage those people to come in and see what’s going on here in addition to their usual treatments.”

Repeat business

A definite positive of hair removal services is the need for maintenance. Derenne explains, “We encourage maintenance for outgrowth. Those are considered spot touchup treatments, so the price is lessened quite a bit, too, but I like to explain to everyone at the start of a treatment how outgrowth can appear in certain areas, and that everyone is on different cycles, so the frequency that they need to come in can be different. It’s best to be upfront with clients about the possibility of spot touchups.” Letting clients know at the outset they will likely need to make follow-up visits to maintain quality results helps further develop an esthetician-client bond.

Rebooking can’t be a decision left entirely to clients, though. “We consistently coach and train our team to focus on prebooking as one of the sales drivers we look at,” Ford explains. “Too many times, clients either just walk out or are left to make up their own minds about booking another appointment, so now we take it upon ourselves to make sure we see them again in four to six weeks. We’ve really had to train our staff that, especially in this economic climate, nothing is left unsaid. Every opportunity needs to be taken to remind clients to rebook.”

Daron focuses on the same rebooking needs and also encourages clients to return in the instance they have any issues from a treatment, which can result in follow-up services and sales opportunities. “We also send people home with products to help them maintain smooth skin and prevent ingrowns,” she explains. Referral programs can be capitalized on by sending other things home, too. “We offer refer-a-friend cards to our clients to give their friends a referral to their technician,” says McGinn. “It works out great, because it builds loyalty from the client and builds the technician’s clientele.”

Reminding clients about the sensitive nature of these treatments can be to your benefit, as well. “For what we do, it’s important to have licensed professional estheticians who specialize in hair removal services, because the client then knows the service is going to be performed by a highly trained esthetician in a sanitized environment,” says Ford. “It’s just smart to have a professional who knows what they’re doing.” Daron agrees, saying, “We just like to show people they’ve come to the right place. This is our specialty—we aren’t offering it because it’s trendy.”

In the end, quality treatments are the key. Offer good results, and you will have good clients. Law says sharing information about hair removal treatments with fellow owners is important for this reason. “I’ve always felt that other medical spa owners and physicians in the laser hair removal business are colleagues. If someone is performing laser hair removal and offering good treatments with good results, that’s a good thing. There is plenty of business to go around. But if somebody isn’t providing effective treatments and is unsafe, that’s damaging to all of us,” she explains. So staying safe and effective—no matter the method or information channel—is the surest path to dependable success.

Hair removal, the right way

Hair removal can be a tricky offering. Sensitivities, repeat visits, fickle clients and safety considerations can all be challenging. Although a continued effort is necessary on the clients’ part for the results to be maintained, spas can also create their own opportunities to encourage patronage and provide quality professional care. Knowing clients, staying safe and being willing to learn are some of the most important details to remember, and that kind of attention and helpfulness is exactly what has clients coming in every few weeks for appointments—and telling their friends about your services.