Pixel PeepingImage Sharpness

2015 ISSUEAUGUSTGUIDE

PHOTOGRAPHYSLR

AUGUST EDITIONDIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY MAGAZINE EDITOR TANYA PUNTTISLRPHOTOGRAPHYGUIDE.COM

2015

Student image © Lee Ann Richardson Patterson (USA)Aperture f/2.8 | Focal Length 70mm | Shutter Speed 1/20 sec | ISO 250

Our online photography course now comes with four e-books: Aperture Explained, Mastering Shutter Speed, Understanding ISO and Going Manual. If you are yet to download them, look under the ‘Files’ link beneath our facebook group header image (students only).

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in this issue

Student image © Rita Rainey (USA) Shutter Speed 20 Seconds | Aperture F16 | ISO 100

Student image © Carmen Harriman (USA)Aperture F/8 | Shutter Speed 1/320 | ISO 100 | Exposure Compensation -0.3 step Focal Length 24mm

Student image © Jan Hoskin Hay (Australia)This is Grace photographed with a Canon EOS Rebel T5iISO 6400 | Focal Length 40mm | Aperture f/5 | Shuer Speed 1/50

Student image © Terry Stormon (Australia)ISO 800 | Aperture f5.6 | Shuer Speed 1/50

Why your photos are not sharp at 100% zoom

“I keep getting frustrated when I blow my images up to 1:1 and see they are not as sharp as I’d like”

Sound familiar? This is a question I receive often from beginners who are Sound familiar? This is a question I receive often from beginners who are misinterpreting the sharpness of their images based on how they look at 100 percent zoom (also referred to as 100 percent crop). In some cases images are being zoomed in as much as 300 percent or more!

Many are so hung up on how things look at 100 pecent that they are earth Many are so hung up on how things look at 100 pecent that they are earth shatteringly disappointed with either their gear or technique. The truth is, at 100 percent most images aren't as sharp as 50-70 percent zoom, this is normal for DSLR cameras.

Let’s face it, if we were to walk up close to a famous painting in a museum and Let’s face it, if we were to walk up close to a famous painting in a museum and study it pixel by pixel, you’d find irregularities in the brush strokes, problems with color and skewed lines. So why do we do it with photographs? Similar to paintings in a museum, photographs are meant to be viewed as a whole, and from a certain distance. Hence I have learned to never go beyond a 50 percent crop when judging the sharpness of photos on my monitor.

If you were wanting to fairly judge an image at 100 percent zoom, you’d need to If you were wanting to fairly judge an image at 100 percent zoom, you’d need to also change the resolution of your monitor to match that of the image so you can view the photo as a whole on your screen. The problem being, there is no monitor I can think of that could actually do that! The largest my desktop monitor goes to is 2560 x 1600 pixels and my laptop 1440 x 900. On September 5, 2014 Dell unveiled 'the world's first' monitor with 5K resolution, shortly followed by Apple when they released a new iMac with same size and 5120 x 2880 resolution. With many entry model DSLR cameras now utilising 24MP 2880 resolution. With many entry model DSLR cameras now utilising 24MP sensors, you’d need a monitor resolution of 6000 x 4000 pixels to display images at 100 percent, yet still enable you to view them as a whole. Only then could you judge the sharpness at 100 percent.

Pixel Peeping

If we were to walk up close to a famous painting in a museum and study it pixel by pixel, you’d find irregularities in the brush strokes, problems with color and skewed lines. So why do we do it with photographs?

Let’s pretend there are monitors that could display an image as a whole at 100 percent zoom, there are still countless reasons why an image may not appear sharp. Many of which have nothing to do with your technique or camera gear.

For starters, the sharpest of images need clean air and good lighting. Even at For starters, the sharpest of images need clean air and good lighting. Even at reasonable focal distances, heat shimmer, fog and haze are some of the biggest barriers to sharpness! This is often referred to as ‘atmospheric conditions’. The harder the light, the sharper an image will appear. By hard, I’m referring to shadows that have a very defined edge between the shadow and the light, like what you’d see if you shot in the middle of the day. Wheras this lighting is great for sharpness, it’s often regarded overall as being the less desirable light for photography. Colors are usually washed out and the photographer needs to deal photography. Colors are usually washed out and the photographer needs to deal with the harsh shadows. Sharpness also equals the amount of local contrast seen in any particular subject. For example, it's hard to perceive sharpness in dark areas such as a tree trunk for instance. At times like this, it is important to know that there is nothing wrong with your image for the conditions.

Did you know most cameras on the market today use a low-pass / anti-aliasing filter (blur filter) to help combat problems with moiré (strange-looking wavy patterns seen in man made objects).

In this video, Fro is totally bown away by the quality of an image that was taken with a Canon 5DS R when zoomed in at 1:1. The point being, unless you own a camera that has the low-pass / anti-aliasing filter removed, there really is no point in scrutinising an image at 100 percent zoom. It’s simply not what your DSLR camera was created for.

The anti-aliasing filter impliments a slight blur before the image reaches the sensor. Therefore, purely by design, DSLR cameras were not created to have every inch of an image scrutinised pixel by pixel.

There are now several DSLR cameras There are now several DSLR cameras aimed directly at landscape and nature photographers that have had the anti-aliasing filter removed from the hardware. For example, Nikon D800E and Canon 5DS R. I highly recommend watching a video from FroKnowsPhoto over at over at http://froknowsphoto.com/the-canon-5dsr-quality-just-blew-me-away/

Student image © Julie Berglund (USA)

Student image © Romin MovoldStudent image © Laurie Kjosness (USA)

Student image © Patricia Coulson (USA)

Minimalism

Student image © Malini Majithia (UK)

Student image © Jenna Ward (UK) Student image © Christopher Bye (Canada)

Student image © Amanda Franklin (USA)This eagle was in a reserve as a rescue. She was found almost starved to death because of the deformity of her beak, she couldn't eat correctly. The eagle is in a cage behind a very small mesh fencing. I used my zoom lens and focused on her, using the largest aperture my lens allowed, completely blurring out the fence in front of her.

Student image © Liz Hart (UK)

Student image © Pat Wray (Canada)

Student image © Sue Osborne (USA)ISO 250 | Focal Length 62mm | Aperture f/2.8 | Shutter Speed 1/80

(student profile)

http://gaylinlyons.weebly.com

My interest in photography began a few years ago when I was creating a web site My interest in photography began a few years ago when I was creating a web site for a client who took her own photos of her horses. She always caught the personality of the horse, their grace, majesty, strength and intelligence. Well, I came into a bit of money and bought myself a Canon Rebel XT. I used it mainly in auto mode since I knew nothing about manual. That was the start of my love affair with photography.

Gaylin Lyons

What do you enjoy most about being a photographer?

I love being behind the camera and I love capturing a moment in time. For me, I love being behind the camera and I love capturing a moment in time. For me, currently, this means coming upon a bug in the garden and getting it on "film", ha, well not film, you know, but on a ‘card’. I have found that being a photographer has given me a new perspective on how I look at life, I notice all kinds of things that I didn't 12 months ago. I see beauty in insects, even spiders (ugh!) Lol! I can appreciate storm clouds, raindrops, dew, morning fog. Everything I see I now look at with a view of being behind the lens of a camera.

I love it! I crave it! I need it!I love it! I crave it! I need it!

I also have found that my photos have been giving a lot of friends much joy. So being a photographer has given me an outlet for creativity that extends to giving joy to others.

How has our photography course helped you?

This course has given me the opportunity to learn how to use a camera properly. I knew nothing about my camera or shooting in manual mode before joining this course. I had never taken any photos using manual mode, always sticking to automatic.

I find that the way the course is presented actually draws me into wanting to know I find that the way the course is presented actually draws me into wanting to know more. The lessons are easy to understand, there is a lot of opportunity to get out and practice the assignments.

Each lesson builds on the previous lesson. There is no pressure to have a lesson completed by a certain time, which was important for me as I work shifts and I wouldn't be able to do the course otherwise. Doing this course in one's own time was a huge draw for me.

Having input from Tanya and the other students has been very helpful. I have learned much from seeing what others post and "listening" to comments and suggestions. I keep a "notebook" on my computer of various experiments that I would like to try one day. Now that I have upgraded my camera, I am also able to go back and review the lessons as many times as I need.

I could not have asked for a more detailed, easy to learn, content oriented course. I could not have asked for a more detailed, easy to learn, content oriented course. Tanya has really outdone herself! It's educational, fun to work through, with lots of explanation and plenty of help. This course is helping me to take "Ahhhhh..." photos, sharp photos, in focus photos, knock your socks off color photos, and wow b&w photos.

I'm learning what lenses are best for certain photos. I knew nothing about lenses I'm learning what lenses are best for certain photos. I knew nothing about lenses before I started. I had a Macro lens and the kit lens. I now have a Tamron 150-600mm telephoto lens and am learning how to shoot with it.

This course is a Godsend. Where once I would spend hours just watching movies or reading books when I wasn't working, I now pick up my camera and I go out. I am loving my life, and photography as well as this course is a huge part of that.

What’s your favorite photograph that you’ve taken and why?

My favorite photograph. Wow, this is such a difficult question. I love Macro photography. I will never grow tired of getting in close to my subject. So my favorite would be the image of a leaf from a tree. It was raining when I took the photo ... I find it amazing that I can take a photo and find incredible beauty within, and be able to bring it out in a cropped photograph.

When I saw this photo on my computer, I realized that I could capture ‘a moment When I saw this photo on my computer, I realized that I could capture ‘a moment in time’. Never again, when it rains, will the raindrops fall as they did when I was out in the yard that day. Every photo is different, unique and it's a thrill for me when I see that I've got a good one, that ‘I did it’.

And I did that with this photo. I love rain drops ... I love Macro photography!

I guess I'm saying that this photo for me was the ‘Ahhhhhh’ moment.

What plans do you have for the future of your photography?

I am not sure at this time about the future of my photography. I am such a novice and am rather enjoying the "moment". Having said that, I do find myself wishing to see my photos in a book, or on someone else's wall. So, I guess, somewhere deep down I would like to be good enough to sell my photos.

From Tanya: There is no doubt in my mind that photography changes the way you see the world. As Gaylin found, it’s actually quite an incredible transformation to experience. Suddenly you notice light, shapes, colours and textures you’d not have seen before. It’s been a pleasure to watch on as Gaylin rediscovers the beauty in the every day, and start living again in the present. Being a photographer simply means ‘you really love photography’. This in itself has to put Gaylin up there with the best of them! with the best of them!

Any other thoughts you’d like to share with us Gaylin?

I never thought that I would ever own a "professional" camera, nor that I would be able to take really good, to great, to awesome photos.

Being able to do so is a combination of knowing my camera, learning how to use it, doing the lessons, listening carefully to critiques and re-adjusting the ‘how to’ as one goes along.

I would like to thank Tanya for putting this course together and offering it. I've met I would like to thank Tanya for putting this course together and offering it. I've met great people who take awesome photos because of this course. I think you are all brilliant, and I'm thrilled to be a part of this course with you.

Thank you for your suggestions, advice, comments and photos. I have been inspired by every photo I've set my eyes on.

Gaylin Lyons - http://gaylinlyons.weebly.com

Student image © Daniela Luquini (UK)Focal Length 28 mm | Aperture f/ 1.8 | ISO 800 | Shutter Speed 1/6400 sec

Student image © Carey Rhyne (USA)Sony a7 II + Sony 24mm-240mm lensISO 250 | Focal Length 134 mm | Aperture f 8.0 | Shutter Speed 1/200

Student image © Allison Taylor (Australia)ISO- 200 | Shutter Speed 1/125 | Aperture f/10 | Focal Length 55mm

Student image © Leonie Morris (Australia) Aperture f/14 | Shutter Speed 1/100 sec | ISO 100 | Focal Length 60 mm

Image SharpnessAre your images not as sharp as you’d like? Listed below are several reasons you may have overlooked!

1. If shoong in RAW, the image will not be sharpened unl you post process it. JPGs are sharpened in camera, RAW files are not. The amount of sharpening is up to you!

2. The more you crop an image in post processing, the more sharpness you’ll lose. ie a cropped image is never as sharp as the original. Similarly, straightening a horizon in post processing also affects sharpness. Therefore you should strive to compose the image as well as possible in-camera.

3. Ditch the UV filter! You are not going to capture the sharpest shot 3. Ditch the UV filter! You are not going to capture the sharpest shot possible by adding an eighty dollar filter over the top of your thousand dollar plus lens. Experience has taught me that shots taken with filters are soer than those without. Those who are worried about protecng their glass need to ask themselves one simple queson, ‘how oen have you replaced your UV filter’?

4. When shoong long exposures, don’t expect every image to be sharp. 4. When shoong long exposures, don’t expect every image to be sharp. Even with 10 second exposures, just a gentle breeze shiing the camera a ny bit can soen the focus. When using a tripod, always turn off vibraon reducon / image stablisaon on the side of your lens, and use mirror lockup for long exposures.

5. Did you know at 100 percent focal length, most lenses aren't as sharp 5. Did you know at 100 percent focal length, most lenses aren't as sharp as 50-70 percent zoom? It’s not unusual for me to use my 100-400mm telephoto lens at 370mm focal length for this very reason.

6. Don’t smash your shuer buon when taking a shot! All you need do is 6. Don’t smash your shuer buon when taking a shot! All you need do is simply roll your finger across the buon. It is well known, the harder you press the shuer buon, the more problems you’ll have when it comes to sharpness. This is why more expensive cameras like the 5D Mark III and Nikon D810 etc have a rubber coang so the press of the buon does not vibrate the camera as much.

7. Some lenses are sharper than others. For example, prime lenses (non zoom) are light to hold, and fast to shoot. Primes have less moving parts and therefore have a reputaon for sharpness and beer quality. The more focal range between the shorter and longer lengths, the less sharp it will be. For example, a lens that goes from 17-40mm focal length will be sharper than one that goes from 17-300mm.

8. Are you shoong with the sharpest aperture? Many photographers learn that 8. Are you shoong with the sharpest aperture? Many photographers learn that the sharpest aperture on many lenses is f/7.1 or f/8 give and take. The further you go from that aperture, the soer the image will appear.

9. Did you know that increasing the ISO also reduces visible detail, and therefore sharpness seen in a photo? This is usually noceable from ISO 400 onward (depending on your camera brand and model).

10. Depending on where you set your focus, in theory, that should be the 10. Depending on where you set your focus, in theory, that should be the sharpest area of your image, every other area will only be acceptably sharp, or not sharp at all (depending on your aperture se ng).

If you are wanng a landscape to be sharp from the foreground to the mountains on the horizon, and you are expecng to see details in the trees of those mountains, your best opon is to buy a $60 000 medium format camera (Phase One). It’s simply not going to happen with a DSLR.

When viewing the image above in it’s largest size, the trees seen on the mountains along the horizon are not as detailed or sharply focussed as the water in the foreground. Does this mean this is a bad image? Of course not, this is perfectly acceptable and normal for DSLR photography. This image has sold thousands of mes over!

Remember, somemes what we see as not being sharp, is oen perfectly normal for DSLR technology.

It’s not unusual to see photographers open an image and immediately grab the sharpness slider in Camera Raw or Lightroom as the first adjustment they make in post processing. For me it makes more sense to sharpen at the very end of the eding process. Only aer I’ve created duplicate copies, one for each purpose or medium I plan on using it for, do I apply sharpening. Photos used on the web should be sharpened differently than those being processed Photos used on the web should be sharpened differently than those being processed for print. When saving a photo for mae paper, more sharpening should be applied than when prinng on glossy paper. Does it not make sense that a large print would require a different sharpening approach than a 6x4 inch print?

Another problem I see with the sharpening sliders, is that they don’t allow you to Another problem I see with the sharpening sliders, is that they don’t allow you to selecvely sharpen. ie they sharpen the image as a whole, which defeats the purpose of blurring certain aspects of the scene in-camera. A quick look on youtube will explain how to selecvely sharpen images in Lightroom or Photoshop. I highly recommend checking them out.

Image Sharpening

‘There is only you and your camera. The limitaons in your photography

are in yourself, for what we see is what we are.’

~ Ernst Haas

Those who use a dedicated macro lens will understand how hard it is to raise the aperture f/number for a large depth of field, yet keep the shuer speed fast enough to capture an insect on the move. This is especially true when it comes to shoong macros in a shady part of your garden. Listed below is my go to technique for macro photography using a speedlight.

1. Place your speedlight onboard your camera and turn both the speedlight and camera on.

2. Open the camera menu and look for an item called ‘Flash Control’ or 2. Open the camera menu and look for an item called ‘Flash Control’ or something similar. If you have an opon for E-TTL Flash Mode make sure it’s enabled. Set the E-TTL meter to evaluave. While you are there, also change the ‘Flash sync. speed’ in AV mode from Auto to the highest fixed speed available. Normally 1/250 sec. (fixed) or similar. The flash sync speed will then be fixed at 1/250 second, prevenng subject blur and camera shake.

Flash Tips For Macro

3. There are two ways to go about the remainder of the se ngs. You could set Shuer Speed Priority using 1/250 second and let the camera choose the aperture. Or alternavely, you could set Aperture Priority using f/11-f/13. This will ensure a larger area of the bug is in focus and not just the eye. The flash se ng you made earlier will ensure the speed is kept at 1/250 seconds. Now take a couple of test shots. If you find the background is black, increase the ISO to 400 and try again.

That’s all there is to it. Simple right?

Did you know our online photography course

now comes with downloadable cheat sheets?

"If you haven't taken advantage of printing the cheat sheets, I strongly suggest you take time to do so. These alone are worth

the price of the course." ~ John Smith (student)

Check out our online photography course over at

http://www.slrphotographyguide.com/online-courses.shtml