smart garment design - laboratory of fashion...
TRANSCRIPT
Sungmin Kim
SEOUL NATIONAL UNIVERSITY
Smart Garment Design
3. Materials
Conductive Material Conductive Textile Material In the early stage...
Manufactured primarily for medical and industrial purposes
– Antimicrobial, antistatic, EMF (electromagnetic field) shielding purpose
Not sold in smaller quantities
Aesthetic aspects have not been well considered
Nowadays...
Available for consumer products
– Gloves for touch screen devices
– Sensors for heart rate or brain wave
– Conductive flexible electrodes
Wide range of aesthetic options are available
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Conductive Fiber Metal Fiber
Characteristics
Powerful raw material that can be used in a variety of projects
Soft and light weight
It can be spun, felted, and more
Example
Beknix, e-Thread
– Stainless multifilament fiber
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Stainless steel fiber
Conductive Fiber Metallized Fiber
Characteristics
Fiber coated with metal
Example
Organza
– Silk filament wrapped with thin gold foil
AmberStrandQ (Sycom)
– PBO (Polybenzoxazole) fiber wrapped with metal
ContaX (Nobel Biometerial)
– Fiber containing silver
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Embroidered Antenna
Conductive Fiber Fiber from Inherently Conductive Polymer
Conductive Polymer
Studied since 1977
Won Nobel prize for Heeger, MacDiarmid, Shirakawa (2000)
Example
Polyaniline (PANI)
Polypyrrole
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Conductive Fiber Conductive Carbon Nano Tube Fiber Characteristics
High tenacity
High conductivity
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Conductive Yarn Cotton-Wrapped Nichrome Yarn Structure
Combed cotton yarn wrap the nichrome wire
Wrapping is carried out by braiding technique
Characteristics
Coarser count yarn would be better
– Provides better wrapping with high surface area
– Better heat dissipation for preventing thermal shock
Use
Heating fabric
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BraidedYarn
Conductive Yarn Copper Core Yarn Structure
Core-sheath type yarn
Copper core filament is wrapped by cotton fiber by friction spinning
Use
Electrically Conductive fabric
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Conductive Yarn Copper Core Yarn Industrial Importance
Used to develop sensor wears and signal-transferring applications
– Defense, medical, and technical textiles
Can be woven and knit into special fabrics
– Antielectrostatic fabric
– Electrostatic dissipating fabric
– Telecommunication textile device
– Electromagnetic shielding fabric
– Body temperature control jacket
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Conductive Yarn Optical Core Conductive POF Yarn Structure
POF (plastic optical fiber) is wrapped by cotton sliver using friction spinning system
Use
Communication fabric
Illuminated fabric
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Conductive Yarn Working with Conductive Yarn
Hand Sewing
Needle with a larger eye is needed
Secure knot is needed
– Conductive yarn can be a bit slippery
– Fabric glue is sometimes required
Machine Sewing
Use the conductive yarn in the bobbin
Prevention of Shorts
Most conductive yarns are uninsulated
Keep the circuits neat, trim, and organized
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Conductive Yarn Properties of Conductive Yarn Thickness
Determines the type of needle and the availability for sewing machine
The more plies, the less resistive the yarn will be
Resistance
One of the most important factors to consider when choosing a conductive yarn
Affects how they can be used in a circuit
Material
Different materials have different conductivity and physical properties
Insulation
Insulated conductive yarn does exists
However, there are no insulated conductive yarn available in small quantities
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Conductive Fabric Characteristics of Conductive Fabric Lower Resistance than Conductive Yarn
Do a better job in circuits with higher-current demands
Working with Conductive Fabric Sewing
Conductive fabric can be sewn just like any other fabric– Quilting and applique techniques can be used
Prevention of Shorts
Yarns from frayed piece can wander and inadvertently
create shorts
Can be mitigated through hemming, serging, or other traditional
sewing techniques
Iron-on Adhesive
Conductive fabric can be purchased with iron-on adhesive already applied
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Conductive Fabric Properties of Conductive Fabric Substrate
Non-conductive base layer affect the care and comfort of the final product
– Nylon, polyester,...
Weight and Thickness
Important to consider in the context of the product
– Lightweight fabric for light t-shirt
Stretch
A stretch fabric can be helpful for a garment that needs to shape-shift or bend frequently
Surface Resistance
Many conductive fabrics have an extremely low surface resistance
Color
Most fabrics are in silver or copper
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Other Conductive Material Conductive Felt How to Make
Combining conductive fiber or conductive wool with sheep's wool
Use
Tactically pleasing variable resistor or electronic switch
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Other Conductive Material Conductive Ribbon Type
Single conductor type
Multiple conductor type
– Uninsulated– Insulated
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Other Conductive Material Conductive Velcro Use
Act as a secure and sensible electronic switch for clothing
Conductive Paint Use
Paint, draw, or silk screen circuits
Works best on a nonporous substrate
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Textile based Sensors Textile Sensors Definition
A sensor in which fiber itself acts as a sensor
Types
Fiber Type
– Optical Fiber» Trouble-free transfer of information even at a high electric field» Can be used to temperature measurement by monitoring the refractive index of cladding» Can be used to pressure measurement using micro bending effect
Yarn Type
– Used to detect the stress caused due to the influence of mechanical abrasion or UV
2D or 3D Fabric Type
– Bind multiple sensors to create a single sensor module– Fabricated by weaving or knitting process.
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Textile based Sensors Development Stages
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Material selection Select suitable material for the delivery of signal energy
Measurement parameter decision
Determine the physical values to be measured as signal and develop
Prototype making Make a prototype using sewing, knitting, weaving, coating, embroidery
Connectivity test Solves the problem for the connection of the sensor and other electronic components
Data analysis and evaluation Check the characteristics of the sensor by measuring the linearity of data, for example
Range determination Check the characteristics of the sensor by measuring the linearity of data, for example
Textile based Sensors Examples Capacitive Sensor
Principle
– Two opposing electrodes are separated by an insulating material
– When voltage is applied to the circuit, the electrode is charged to positive and negative
– The insulator prevent the electron current and an electric field is generated between electrodes
– The energy storage capacity is dependent on the distance between the electrodes
– Therefore, flexible textile electrodes can convert the change in pressure into electrical signals
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Textile based Sensors Examples
Temperature Sensor
Can be made in various structures unlike electronic sensors
– Can cover a large area and measure the distribution of temperature over a large area
– Can measure the temperature of skin close to the body
– Can be used for physiological and medical monitoring
Prepared by coating, weaving, knitting, embroidery, printing, etc.
– Operates on the principle of the thermocouple, resistance, and conductivity
Special fiber optic type sensor
– Implementation FBG (Fiber Brag Grating) and the functional coating
– A single fiber can measure the temperature distribution over a large area
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Textile based Sensors Examples
Moisture Sensor
The amount of water vapor in the air is very important in many manufacturing processes
– Monitoring and control of moisture is critical in the medical, industrial and domestic applications
Sometimes the measurement over a wide area is necessary
– A fabric type sensor may be most appropriate
Pressure Mapping Sensor
A sensor for quantifying the pressure between two surfaces
– Based on a capacitive sensing element or piezoresistive element
Applied to mat or socks to read the pressure acting on thigh, hips, feet, etc.
Fabric made of pressure-sensitive filament may sense the pressure in all parts of the body
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Textile based Sensors Examples Pressure Mapping Sensor
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Smart socks (Alpha-Fit)
Textile based Sensors Examples Pressure Mapping Sensor
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Project Jacquard (Google)
Textile based Display Color Changing Interactive Fabric Judit Eszter Karpati (Hungary, 2014)
Interactive fabric using computer programming, engineering and electronic devices
Slow moving textile ‘displays’ to show the content, which react to environmental changes
It changes color and pattern when heated up or pressed
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Textile based Battery Textile Battery Volvo (Sweden, 2013)
Turn body panels into batteries
Same output with 50% reduction in battery weight
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Textile based Battery Textile Battery KAIST (2013)
Polyester fiber based battery
Flexible, foldable, rechargeable (solar powered)
Can have various form factors
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Flexible Solar Cell Solar Cell Importance
Infinite source of energy prior to the nuclear fusion technology
Most renewable energy device cannot repay the energy to make during their lifetime
– Hydro, wind, etc.
Photovoltaic (Solar) cell generates more energy than they consumed
– Alsema (2009), Lind (2015)
Current Problems
Solar cells are put between glass/polycarbonate plates due to weak nature
– Glass is fragile and polycarbonate glass is heavy
– Durable and lightweight material is needed
Application of thin flexible plastic or metal films has been studied
– Lighter than polycarbonate glass but still fragile
Textile-based solar cell has many advantages
– Light, durable, flexible, ...
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Flexible Solar Cell Textile based Solar Cell Using Organic Photovoltaic Fiber (Bedeloglu, 2010)
Mass production of polymer film attached fabric is possible
– Solar cell film can be attached to fabric but it can be damaged by the bending of fabric
Direct deposition of solar cell on the fabric is most desirable
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Cover Film
Transparent conducting oxide
Silicon film
Metal film
Organic conductor
Fabric
Flexible Solar Cell Textile based Solar Cell Solar Cell Fiber (Japan)
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SphericalSolar Cell
1.2mm
Flexible Solar Cell Future of Textile based Solar Cell
Most Suitable Power Sources
Fashion products
– Conceptual products of solar powered jackets and backpacks have been made
– Most of them using the costly method of the integration of conventional silicone based solar cells
Low-energy electronic devices
– Personal health status monitoring devices
– Sensors for wearable devices
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Flexible Solar Cell Future of Textile based Solar Cell Wide Coverage
Wide area textile based solar cell can be used for shade or canopy
– Solar tent that can supply power to various electronic equipment (PowerFilm Solar, Inc., USA)– Personal solar panel for a soldier with radio communication, GPS, laser rangefinder, etc.
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Energy Harvesting Material Piezoelectric Material
Piezoelectricity
One of the most important discoveries in 19th century
– Pressure applied to a material is converted in to electric energy
Natural piezoelectric material
– Quartz, bone, tendons, enamel, dentin, etc.
Synthetic piezoelectric material
– Some ceramic and polymer materials show piezo electricity
– Piezopolymers have some advantages over Piezoceramics such as piezoelectric performance or flexibility
– Polyvinyliden fluoride (PVDF) is knows to be the most suitable piezoelectric material
– Nanowire and Carbon nano tubes are also suitable for piezoelectric applications
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Energy Harvesting Material Applications of Textile-based Piezoelectric Material Human Powered Wearable Devices
Modern electronic devices require only a few mW of power
Human motion would be sufficient for providing power to those devices (Stamer, 1996)
– Electricity from the change in the chest circumference due to respiration (Zieba (2010), Wang (2012))
– Driving a pace maker using blood pressure and heart beat
– Electricity from heel-attached piezoelectric material (Kymissis, 1998)
– Piezoelectric energy harvesting device for finger joints and elbow (Yang, 2012)
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Energy Harvesting Material Applications of Textile-based Piezoelectric Material
Military Applications
Light weight energy devices is required
Even flexible solar cells cannot be used without sun
– Piezoelectric energy harvesting can be continued in the dark
Medical Applications
Uninterrupted power supply is required
– ECG (electrocardiogram), sleep monitoring, breast cancer detection underwear, etc.
– Energy harvesting is the most desirable solution considering the weight of battery
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Energy Harvesting Material From Body Temperature Human body generates a few mW of heat energy
Micro heat-electricity converter can harvest those energy
– Usually made by expensive bismuth telluride semi conductors and unsuitable for wearable devices
– Silicon based flexible chip can be considered to be an alternative material
Heat-Electricity converter chip should be integrated into fabric itself
– To obtain maximum temperature difference between inner and outer surface of the chip
– One surface faces the body and the other surface faces the outer air
– Generates about 1.6µW/cm2 of electricity, which is sufficient to power a wrist watch
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More Issues Laser-Cut Fabric PCB Fabrication Process
A heat activated adhesive is attached to a conductive fabric and covered with a paper Place this fabric, paper side up, into a laser cutter where a circuit pattern is etched
– The adhesive and paper backing are cut, but the fabric is only scored
Once the circuit is cut, the backing paper is removed from underneath the circuit The circuit is then carefully aligned on its fabric substrate and ironed into place
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e-Textile Component Laser Cut Fabric PCB Solder Joint Treatment
Fabric PCBs are subject to abuses such as the twisting, folding and stretching of cloth
Solder joint must be covered with an inflexible coating to prevent possible breakage
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e-Textile Component Insulation Importance
Electrical traces may come in contact with one another as a fabric flexes
Traces on textiles must be insulated and protected to prevent short circuits
The insulation must preserve the qualities of the textile - soft, flexible, and stretchy
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Couching Embroidery Iron-on Patch Puffy Fabric Paint
e-Textile Component Flexible-Stretchable Electronics Fundamental requirements for electronics to be integrated into clothing
Many promising demonstrations have surfaced
– There is no real ‘go-to’ solution up to now
Viable Solution
Using a zig-zag stitch for conductive lines between electronic components sewn onto textiles
– The robustness of this technique is not that great – Additional layers of fabric is needed for wear and wash protection
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e-Textile Component String Battery LG Chem
Li-Ion battery in string form just a few millimeter thick
Bendable and can even be knotted without compromising it’s battery function
A reasonable power supply completely integrated in garments and bags.
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e-Textile Component Flexible Battery Jenax J-Flex (2019, Korea)
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