sn ebook june

7/30/2019 SN eBook June

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/sn-ebook-june 1/18

presents

1 2 3 4

1 Purse Fundamentalsby Stephanie Kimura

2 Patch Purseby Pam Archer

3 Brocade Bagby Rebecca Kemp Brent

4 Decorator Double-Takeby Pam Archer

EASY

HANDBAGS

FREESEWINGGUIDES4



EASYHANDBAGS

FREESEWINGGUIDES4

1 Purse Fundamentals........................................PAGE 1

2 Path Purse................................................. PAGE 5

3 Brocade Bag.............................................. PAGE 8

4 Decorator Double-Take ...............................PAGE 12

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Beth BradleyAssociate Editor, Sew News



A handful of hardware, used

creatively, is all that’s needed for

sumptuous style. Purse hardware

can double as embellishment

when it’s combined with attractive

elements that perform a function.

purse

fundamentals

1 sew News



@HS: Highlight Sub

An ongoing series explaining the basics of sewing—clip and save each one for easy reference.

To help purses keep their shape, use thick

fusible interfacing or plastic cross-stitch canvas

behind a layer of batting. Fuse or glue them

together and use as one layer.

handles & closuresHandles highlight a purse’s style and

should be functional.

A metallic-buckle belt makes a great

adjustable strap. Cut the belt so the

buckle isn’t near the shoulder, and then

secure the ends in the purse side seams.

Carved wood and rope handles add ethnic

flavor (1). Attach them to the purse

with fabric or leather ties so they

can be removed for laundering.A crystal chain combines the function

of a strap and necklace. Make a small

pouch just big enough for glasses or

a cell phone and attach a decorative

chain (2). Add a sprinkling of hot-fix

crystals to the pouch to coordinate the

chain with the fabric.

Create a one-of-a-kind handle with wire

and beads (3). Find beads with large

holes and use 16-gauge wire to keep

the handle in a stable curved shape.

Line up enough beads to create thedesired handle length. Feed the wire

through the beads. Use needle-nose

pliers to bend the wire ends into small

loops.Wrap the excess wire around the

top of the loop a few times, and then

cut away any excess.Attach a small

lanyard to each loop, and then clip the

handle to fabric or metal loops at each

purse side seam.

Metal purse frames, as shown on the

purse on page 17,provide style, shape and

closure. The frame size determines the

size of the purse opening, but the purse

body can be any design. Frames usually

have attached handles or small metal

loops to attach chain handles.The

frame perimeter has a filigree of tiny

holes to stitch through when attaching

the purse body. Use seed beads when

stitching the body to the frame to

camouflage the holes.

Grommets (4), a current trend, providea channel for a drawstring handle.

Insert ⅞” (1.1 cm) grommets near the

purse opening and use leather strips,

rayon cording or chain for the draw-

strings. Insert more grommets of any

size on the bag body allowing the

lining to show through the holes.

snaps, hooks& bucklesMagnetic snaps (5) provide security and

can be set in the purse lining for aneasy-access closure. Purse flaps with

snaps add even more privacy.

Use snaps to help organize your purse

contents. Place one side of the snap

on the lining, a few inches below the

opening.Attach the other side of the

snap to a ribbon that’s sewn to

a key ring. Snap your keys in place. Do

the same with a cell phone case.Apply

snaps to a loop on the case, place the

loop through a purse handle or belt

loop and secure. See “Snap to It!” on

page 20 for instructions on inserting

magnetic snaps.

Swivel hooks (6) are the latest rage in

purse hardware.They’re available in

myriad sizes, shapes and tones and

perform a multitude of tasks. Use them

on handles or strap ends to make straps

interchangeable. Use a small swivel hook

as a zipper toggle on a coin purse and

then hook it to the inside of a purse or back pack.Add chains, decorative

embellishments or a cell-phone holder

to the swivel hook and attach it to a

belt loop.The hooks can also be used as

closures on outdoor gear.

Plastic buckles create a secure

closure (7). Use them for backpacks,

computer cases, camera cases and fanny

packs.

get stableStabilization is a key component

in purse construction. For a

soft-sided purse, adhere batting or craft

fleece to the purse body using spray

adhesive or fusible web. For more shape,

add batting or craft fleece to the body

and lining.

1. Carved wood

and rope

2 sew News



In place of adhesives and for a handmade

look, quilt the layers together. If more

structure is needed, add a heavyweight

stabilizer inside the seam allowance.Stabilize a loose-weave fabric with fusible

stabilizer.To maintain a soft drape, apply

fusible tricot.To stabilize stretchy fabric,

use a fusible woven interfacing. If the

interfacing isn’t available with a fusing

agent, apply paper-backed fusible web

to the interfacing, remove the paper,

and then fuse the interfacing to the

stretch fabric.

To stabilize the purse bottom, use plastic

cross-stitch canvas cut to size. Useseveral layers for extra stabilization and

anchor them in place with hand stitches.

The flexibility and plastic properties

allow for easy laundering, just don’t

machine dry. Plastic canvas is usually

inserted between the purse and the

lining, but consider keeping it separate.

Cover the plastic with fabric that’s glued

or hand stitched in place.Then glue or

hand stitch the covered canvas to the

purse bottom.Glues are readily available. For a

temporary bond, consider fabric-basting

glue or sticky adhesive strips. For a

permanent bond, use fabric glue with

a tacky consistency that dries clear.Test

glues on a fabric scrap.

4. Grommets

7. Plastic buckle

5. Magnetic snap

6. Swivel hook

EMBELLISH IT

A monogram or machine-embroidery design adds weight

and stability to the fabric. Apply embroidery to the purse fabric

prior to cutting. Check embroidery sources for applications

suitable to your fabric and embroidery design.

Create interchangeable embellishments. Cut a leather oval to

use as a base. Glue or sew embellishments to the leather. Baste

or pin the finished embellishment onto the purse.Pockets are a practical embellishment. Embroider or monogram

the pocket before cutting it. For a tailored pocket, add a zipper.

Purchase a rhinestone buckle and add it to the purse flap,

handle or pocket for extra sparkle.

2. Crystal chain

3. Wire and bead handle

3 sew News



@HS: Highlight Sub

An ongoing series explaining the basics of sewing—clip and save each one for easy reference.

SNAP TO IT!Magnetic snaps come in different strengths.

Round gold snaps have an average-to-strong

bond. Square silver snaps have an extra-strong

bond and work well with heavy or stiff fabric.

9 To apply magnetic snaps, first mark the

placement with a dot.

9 Center a snap component over the dot and

mark where the prongs touch the fabric (A).

9 Cut through the slits with sharp pointed

scissors or a seam ripper, and then push

the prongs through the slits from the fabric

right side. Place the washer over the

prongs on the fabric wrong side (B).

9 Bend the prongs toward the center if space

is limited, or bend the prongs away from the

center for more leverage (C).

9 Purse feet are inserted similarly to snaps.

Mark where each foot will be inserted, punch

a hole through the mark, insert the prongs

from the fabric right side, and then push the

prongs outward on the fabric wrong side to

secure.

A Mark prong placement

B Place washer over prongs

C Bend prongs outward

tip: Easily change your

purse’s personality

by simply swapping

embellishments: Attach

one side of a magnetic

snap to your purse and

the other side to a silk

flower, button or bow …a new look in a snap!

sources

Bullard Designs, (530) 333-1964, www.bullarddesigns.com, carries embroidery designs and Swarovskihot-fix crystals and crystal chains.

Fabric.com, (888) 455-2940, www.fabric.com, has a variety of fabric, faux fur, velvet and trim.

Hartsdale Fabrics, (914) 428-7780, www.hartsdalefabrics.com, features fabric, faux fur, trims and purse handles.

Jackman’s Fabrics, (800) 758-3742, www.jackmansfabrics.com, carries fabric, faux fur, trims and purse handles.

Nancy’s Notions, (800) 833-0690, www.nancysnotions.com, sells embroidery designs and purse components.

Robin Place Fabrics, (907) 262-5438, www.robinplacefabrics.com, carries purse handles, patterns and embellishments.

Sewing Studio Fabric Superstore, (800) 831-1492, www.sewing.net, features feathers, trims, fabric and metal purse frames.

The Sewing Workshop, (800) 466-1599, www.sewingworkshop.com, sells plastic slide buckles, fabric and trims. Z

Purse feet

4 sew News



patch pouch

Think “beyond the elbow”with this new use forleather and suede patches.

{in-an-eveningproject}

sew News 5 Celebrating 25 Years! 5 F G E GO D G T " 4 2 2 7 21

PAM ARCHER

5 sew News


http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/sn-ebook-june 8/18sew News 5 Celebrating 25 Years! 5 O Q P V J " 4 2 2 7 00

TRY EXPANDINGYOUR CREATIVE PURSUITS with a precut

notion. Use suede elbow patches to create these mini pouches.

Suede’s cut edges don’t ravel, so explore the variety of edge finishing

options. To bind the edges, topstitch, or lace ribbons, cord or beads through

the holes. Test the hole size with your choice of trim. Too-small holes

require a lot of push and pull to weave the trim through. Too-large holes can

leave the pouch misshapen and unable to close properly.

However you decide to create and decorate your pouch, you’ll have fun

sharing it. It’s small enough to tuck inside another bag or to wear around the

neck, over the shoulder or as a belt. And it’s a cinch to sew!

Taupe Pouch

This larger pouch employs two patches, which are stitched together with the

added ease of perforated holes. The approximate finished size is 3”x 4”.

MATERIALS7 2 taupe suede patches with perforations

7 1 yard of black rattail cord

7 23 ⁄ 4”-long beaded appliqué

7 Matching all-purpose or beading thread

7 Beading needle or fine, sharp needle (test for fit through bead)

7 Black seed beads

7 Marking pencil

7 Small hole or leather punch

1.With a ruler and marking pencil, draw a line across one patch 2½” from

the upper edge. Cut along the line and use the larger portion to form the

pouch front.

2. Place the cut pouch front on the remaining patch, matching the lower

edges and perforations.

3.With a double-threaded needle, whipstitch the edges together, threading

the needle through nine seed beads between each hole.

4. Mark two holes ¾” from each side,

just above the front pouch cut edge.

Punch the holes.

5. Thread each cord end through the

holes from the back to the inside. Tie

the ends in a square knot between the

holes.

6. Stitch the cord ends to the cord,

wrapping the ends to secure (A).

7. Center the appliqué on the front

flap, ¾” from the upper fold; hand

stitch in place.

These quick and

simple pouches provide

the ideal canvas for

embellishments.

Consider small-scale

beading, printing or

appliqué.

A Stitch cord ends together.

Stitch together.

6 sew News



RedDrawstringPouch

Approximate finished

size is 2”x 3”.

MATERIALS

7

1 non-perforated red suede elbow patch7 2 yards of navy rattail cord

7 2 yards of variegated yarn

7 2 yards of silk ribbon

7 Small hole or leather punch

7 Marking pencil

7 White craft glue

7 Transparent tape

1. Fold the patch in half lengthwise. Place the pattern on the fold,

trace the cutting lines, and cut.

2. Mark the hole placements, and punch them out.

3. Tape the cord and yarn together at one end. Braid the entire

length and loosely knot the remaining end.

4. Dip 4” of the taped end into white craft glue, wiping off the

excess, and allow to dry.

5. Beginning with the glued cord end, weave the cord over and

under through the holes (B).

6. Pull the cord through and

wrap a piece of tape around the

cord just above the glue line.

Trim off the glued end below

the tape.

7.Adjust the cord length

according to preference, tie the

ends together, and remove the

tape.

8. Pull up the cord to form a

pouch and fold down the flap. Z

B Weave braid through pouch holes.

Braid your own custom

drawstring with scraps

from your fiber stash.

RedDrawstring

Pouch

Cut 1.

P l a c e

on

f ol d .

1 ⁄ 8”

1 ⁄ 2”

7 sew News



CHINOISERIEChinoiserie is the term used to describe the 18th century

fascination with all things Asian. Create a bit of

Chinoiserie yourself with this embroidered brocade bag.

B R O T H E R , C A R D 7 3 ,

D E S I G N # 4 6

REBECCA KEMP BRENT

8 sew News



MATERIALS

73 ⁄ 8 yard of at least 45”-wide brocadefabric

7 3 ⁄ 8 yard of 45”-wide satin lining

71 ⁄ 4 yard of 45”-wide organza

7 Tear-away stabilizer (such as Heat N Sta)

7 Fusible water-soluble stabilizer(such as Wet N Gone)

7 Single-sided fusible stiff craft interfacing(such as Stitch N Shape Lite)

7 Thread: embroidery and all-purpose

7 4 large (1 ⁄ 4”) 2-piece eyelets

73 ⁄ 4” purse handle loops

purse body All seam allowances are ¼” unless

otherwise noted.

Cut one 9”x 22” rectangle and one

7”x9” rectangle each from the brocade

fabric and the fusible stiff craft inter-

facing. Fuse the interfacing to the

fabric wrong side using a press cloth.

Stitch diagonal lines 1” apart on each

fabric rectangle. Repeat in the oppo-

site direction to form a grid, covering

the entire surface of each rectangle (1).

Trim the larger rectangle to 7½”x 20½”.

Pin the base pattern (on page 31) to

the smaller rectangle and cut. Zigzag

or overcast the rectangle and base

edges to reduce fraying.

Transfer the notches from the pattern

piece onto the quilted base. Mark the

large rectangle as shown (2).

Fold the large rectangle in half wrong

sides together, matching the short

ends. Stitch the ends, and press the

seam open to form the bag body.

Right sides facing, position the bag

body on the base, matching the

notches and seam on the body to the

circles on the base. Make shallow,⅛”

clips on the bag lower edge every ⅜”

to ease the seam allowance around

the base’s curved shape.

Stitch the body to the base. Stitch a

small distance at a time; remove the

work from the machine and

reposition it as necessary.

Turn the bag right side out. Stand it

upside down on the ironing board

and steam the bottom to shape it.

From the lining fabric, cut one

7½”x 20½” rectangle and one base.

Mark and assemble the pieces as

detailed for the outer bag to makethe lining.

With wrong sides together, place the

lining in the bag, matching the seams

and notches. Baste the upper edges

together.

Set the machine for a 2.5 mm-long

stitch, and thread the needle and the

bobbin with matching thread. Starting

at the bag upper edge, stitch 1” along

the four marked pleat lines.

purse flapFuse a 9” square of fusible, water-

soluble stabilizer to an organza square,

and hoop.

Stitch the embroidery design on the

stabilized organza. To minimize knots

1 Stitch grid on fabric. 2 Mark large rectangle.

41 ⁄ 4” 41 ⁄ 4”

51 ⁄ 4”51 ⁄ 4”

8”

5”5”

1” 1”

Pleat Lines

Notches

9 sew News



from showing through the sheer fabric,

turn off the machine’s automatic thread

cutter. Hold the needle thread gently as

the machine begins to stitch, and trim

jump stitches carefully from the right

and wrong sides when the embroidery

is complete.

Rinse the embroidered organza to

remove the stabilizer. Smooth theorganza into shape on a clean towel

and allow to dry.

Trace the flap pattern, including the cir-

cle, onto tear-away stabilizer. Fuse the

stabilizer to the wrong side of a 9”

brocade square.

With the stabilizer facing up, stitch

around the circle with contrasting

thread. Turn the square over so the

brocade is on top, and position the

embroidered organza right side up on

the circle; pin in place.

Turn the square back over so the

stabilizer is on top. Stitch around the

circle again, through all layers. Use a

1.8 mm-long stitch and matching

thread, and sew just inside the first

stitching line. Repeat, sewing just out-

side the first stitching line.

Tear away the stabilizer only inside the

circle. Trim the brocade inside the

circle, being very careful not to cut

the organza.

Working from the right side, trim the

organza just outside the stitched circle.

Set the machine for a 5.5 mm-wide,

1.4 mm-long zigzag stitch. Stitch

around the circle using matching needle

and bobbin thread. The stitches should

cover the straight stitches and the fabric

raw edges.

Change the stitch to a 7.0 mm-long,

0.3 to 0.4 mm-wide satin stitch. Test

the stitch on scrap fabric to make sure

it’s wide enough to cover the fabric

but doesn’t hang or bunch under the

presser foot. Stitch around the circle

again to finish the edges.

Cut a 9” square from the lining fabric.

Right sides together, place the square

on the brocade flap; pin.

Set the machine for a 2.0 mm-longstraight stitch, and thread the needle

and bobbin with matching thread.With

the stabilizer on top so the pattern lines

are visible, stitch along the scalloped

outer line. Backstitch at each end and

pivot frequently to make smooth, even

curves. Leave the flat upper edge

unstitched.

Cut through all layers along the pattern

line at the upper edge; the pattern

includes a ¼” seam allowance at this

edge only.

Remove the stabilizer, taking care not

to pull or distort the stitches. Trim

the curved seam allowance to a scant

¼”. Clip into the corners and notch

the curves.

Turn the flap right side out and press.

Match the raw upper edges and serge

or zigzag the edges to prevent fraying.

purse strap

Cut a 2”x 44” strip from the brocadefabric. Press under ½” on each short

end.

Fold the strip in half lengthwise with

wrong sides together; press.

Unfold the strip and press in the long

edges to meet the center crease. Fold

again along the centerline; press.

Edgestitch the strap along both long

edges.

finishingWith right sides facing, center the flap

on the purse back, matching the raw

edges; baste.

Cut a 13 ⁄ 4”x 201 ⁄ 2” binding strip from the

organza. Fold the strip in half, meeting

the short ends. Stitch the short ends to

form a circle.Wrong sides together,

fold the strip in half, matching the raw

edges; press (3).

Right sides together, position the

organza on the purse upper edge,

matching raw edges; stitch.

Fold over the organza, encasing the

seam allowances and meeting the

seamline on the purse interior.

Slipstitch the organza in place.

Press the flap up and over the binding

so it folds to the purse front.

Lining sides facing, fold each side of

the purse along the two outer stitched

pleat lines. Press each line to set a 1”

crease. The purse will fold inward, right

sides together, on the middle line.

Position an eyelet on each pleat fold,

just below the purse upper edge. Use

an eyelet or hole punch to make a

starter hole at each eyelet location

shown (4), making sure the flap is out

of the way. The holes are placed ⅝”

below the bound edge and ⅜” from

the stitched pleat line. Take care to

ensure each pair of holes aligns when

the pleat is folded.

If the starter hole isn’t large enough,

use sharp scissors to make a few tiny

clips around the hole, enlarging it just

enough to accommodate the eyelet.

Don’t enlarge the hole too much;

instead, try removing a sliver of

interfacing around the hole.

10 sew News



Purse Base Pattern

Enlarge 200%.

tip: Use pinking shears to trim

and notch the seam allowances

in one operation.

sources

Heat N Sta, Wet N Gone Fusible and Stitch N Shape Lite areavailable from RNK Distributing, www.rnkdistributing.com.

4 Position eyelet starter holes.

3 ⁄ 4” Between Holes

3 ⁄ 8”

5 ⁄ 8”

Stitched

Pleat Lines

Purse foldsinward here.

Purse Flap

Enlarge 200%.

1 ⁄ 4” seam allowance at this edge only

Center Back

3 Fold strip in half.

Set the eyelets following the manufac-

turer’s instructions. Each eyelet will

extend through two bag layers, holding

the pleat in place. The eyelets on the

front pleats should face the bag front,

while the eyelets on the back pleats

face the bag back.

Insert the purse handle loops through

the eyelets and tighten the screws.Thread each strap end through a

handle loop. Turn under each strap

end 1”; hand stitch to secure.

11 sew News



DECORATOR FABRICS CAN

BE REPURPOSED. They have the

possibility to become something new

and look entirely different.

Sometimes, it’s just a matter of

how you look at things. Border

prints can be used vertically, horizon-tally or even diagonally. Often a

single motif can become the focal

point of a smaller project or repeated

on a larger one. This new perspec-

tive enhances a borderline fabric,

whether the fabric reappears as a

detail on a lapel or becomes the

focus of a bag or pillow.

Window ShoppingTo jump-start your creative juices,

try this easy trick.Make a template by drawing the

shape or outline of your project on

paper. Then cut along the lines,

leaving just the paper frame. Place the

frame on the fabric, and move it

around to play with its placement.

Try it vertically, horizontally or

diagonally. It’s amazing how different

the fabric can look when you narrow

your field of vision. This is one time

where thinking small yields big

benefits.

If you don’t see the look you want,

grab your scissors and create a new

fabric. Cut a striped fabric to either

eliminate or expand a color. Sew the

fabric pieces back together in adifferent order or direction to achieve

a distinctive new look.Whether you

create a new stripe, square or chevron

design, use the template again to

determine the most appealing look

for your finished project.

Cutting RemarksConsider these key points before

transforming your fabric into a

completed project.

Weave—How the fabric was woven

impacts its ability to morph into

something new. For example, decora-

tor fabrics with a chenille yarn will

ravel. To combat the dreaded “shreds,”

apply a fusible knit interfacing to the

fabric wrong side just before or after

cutting. This stabilizes the weave,

preparing the fabric for further

stabilization and easier sewing.

Pattern direction bears repeating—

Look at the fabric carefully. Notice

the pattern direction and repetition.

Motifs often repeat, but not always

in the same direction.While that

may not be a bad thing, it certainly

warrants consideration as to wherethe motif is placed and how it gets

matched up. Knowing in advance

how frequently the motif repeats

also helps when preparing to cut

the fabric.

Allowing for seams—Be sure to

include seam allowances when

planning your new project. Keep in

mind that the required seam allow-

ance may cut into the desired neigh-

boring section of the fabric. Plan

ahead to prevent a cutting shortfall.

GENERAL MATERIALS

73 ⁄ 4 yard of fusible knit interfacing

7 Size 2/0 snap

7 Sleeve ham or board

7 Marking pencil or air-soluble fabricmarker

7 12” clear ruler

7 Matching all-purpose thread

7 Rotary cutter and mat

Does your fabric stash harbor somedecorator fabrics that you’re uncertain about?

Consider recycling them ... right at home.

Double-TakePAM ARCHER

Decorator

12 sew News



tip: If you plan to make more than one bag,

copy the pattern onto see-through template plastic.

13 sew News



SmallRounded Bag

MATERIALS

71 ⁄ 2 yard of 45”-widedecorator fabric

71 ⁄ 2 yard of lining fabric

73 ⁄ 8 yard of single-sided

fusible fleece

72 ⁄ 3 yard of firm nonwoveninterfacing

7 Pinking shears

Stitch all seams right sides together

with a ½” seam allowance unless

otherwise noted. Finished size is

6½”x 8”x 1½”.

Using the bag pattern on page 50,

cut two each from the fusible knit

interfacing, fusible f leece, lining and

decorator fabric, taking care to matchfabric motifs at the pattern sides and

upper and lower edges.

Cut one 2½”x 5” strip from decorator

fabric and fusible interfacing for the

tab closure.

Cut one 2½”x 23” strip of decorator

fabric on the bias for the handle.

Cut one 2½”x 23” strip of fusible knit

interfacing for the handle.

Cut one ¾”x 23” strip of firm,

nonwoven interfacing for the handleinsert.

Following the manufacturer’s instruc-

tions, fuse the knit interfacing to the

wrong side of the decorator fabric

bag pieces, handle and tab closure.

Pin the fusible fleece on the knit

interfacing side of the bag pieces.

Fuse in place, following the manufac-

turer’s instructions.

With right sides together, pin the bag

sides, matching the pattern in the

fabric. Stitch the side and lower

edges.

Trim the fleece interfacing close to the

seam. Pink the entire seam; press

open.

At the lower curved corners, stack the

seams on top of each other. Place a

clear ruler perpendicular to the seam-line, and draw a line 1¼” from the

corner across the seam to box the

corners; stitch (1).

Right sides together, pin the lining

pieces along the edges. Stitch around

the side and lower edges, leaving a 3”

opening in the center of the lower

edge. Pink around the curved seam;

press the seam open.

Box the corners in the lining as

detailed for the bag.

Right sides together, fold the

2½”x 23” handle strip in half length-

wise. Stitch the long raw edge using a

¼” seam. Press the seam open. Turn

the handle right side out, centering

the seam to the back; press.

Insert the ¾”x 23” nonwoven inter-

facing strip, smoothing it into thehandle. Baste the handle short ends,

securing the interfacing to the fabric.

Right sides together, fold the 2½”x 5”

tab closure strip in half lengthwise.

Stitch the long raw edge using a ¼”

seam. Press the seam open.

Center the seam to the tab back.

Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch

across the short ends (2). Clip the

seam corners.

1 Box corners. 2 Stitch across short ends.

11 ⁄ 4”

Stitch.

5”

1”

1 ⁄ 4”

14 sew News



Cut the tab into two parts, one meas-

uring 2¼”, the other 2¾”. Turn the

tabs right side out; press.

With right sides together and matching

the raw edges, pin the handle ends to

the bag side seams; baste.With right

sides together, center the tabs on the

bag front and back upper edges;baste (3).

Right sides facing, slip the bag into

the lining, matching the side seams

and raw edges. Pin and stitch around

the upper edge (4). Trim the seam

allowance to ¼”.

Pull the bag through the lining open-

ing. Pull the lining completely out of

the bag.

Fold in the lining opening edges; press.

Edgestitch the opening closed.

Tuck the lining into the bag. Roll the

upper edges slightly to the inside, and

pin in place.

Using the sleeve ham, press around

the bag upper edges; edgestitch.

Hand stitch the lining to the bag body

at the lower corners.

Position one snap part on the longer

tab’s underside; stitch in place.

osition the remaining snap part on

the shorter tab’s upper side, adjusting

placement if desired; stitch.

Large Bag

MATERIALS

73 ⁄ 4 yard of 45”-wide decorator fabric

73 ⁄ 4 yard of lining fabric

73 ⁄ 4 yard of one-sided fusible fleece

73 ⁄ 4 yard of 31 ⁄ 4” coordinating fringe

7 3”x10” scrap of heavyweight double-sided fusible stiff interfacing (such asfast2fuse)

7 7 ⁄ 8 yard of firm, nonwoven interfacing

73 ⁄ 8 yard of 3 ⁄ 8”-wide iron-on adhesive(such as HeatnBond Lite)

Stitch all seams right sides together

with a ½” seam allowance unless

otherwise noted. Finished size is9”x 12½”x 2¾”.

Cut five 3½”x 20” strips from

the decorator fabric, or cut one

13½”x 20” rectangle for the bag.

Cut one 13½”x 20” rectangle each of

fusible interfacing and fusible f leece.

Cut one 2¾”x 9¾” strip of heavy-

weight, double-sided, fusible stiff

interfacing for the bag bottom.

Cut one 12½”-long strip of ⅜”-wide

iron-on adhesive.

Cut one 2¼”x 5” strip each of deco-

rator fabric and fusible interfacing for

the tab closure.

Cut one 3”x 30” strip each of decora-

tor fabric and fusible interfacing for the handle.

Cut one 1”x 30” strip of nonwoven

interfacing for the handle.

If you cut strips rather than whole cloth

for the bag, arrange the strips together

to achieve the desired result. Stitch

the strips together along the length-

wise edges; press the seams open (5

on page 00).

3 Baste handles and tabs to bag. 4 Stitch bag and lining.

Make the bag even more functional by

adding an inside pocket to the lining.

15 sew News



Enlarge

250%.

Small Bag

Cut 2 from fabric, lining,

fusible knit interfacing and

fusible fleece.

Interfacing Trim Line

Following the manufacturer’s instruc-

tions, fuse the knit interfacing to the

wrong side of the decorator fabric

bag pieces, handle and tab closure.

Pin the fusible fleece on the interfaced

side of the bag rectangle. Fuse in

place, following the manufacturer’s

instructions.

Right sides together, fold the bagrectangle in half widthwise to

measure 10”x 13½”. Pin the short

edges and stitch. Press the seams

open.

To create a box bottom, use a marking

pencil and ruler to draw a 1” square

at each lower corner. Cut through all

layers along the line (6). Fold the

fabric to bring the cut edges together,

stacking the side seam on the lower

edge fold. Stitch across the cut edge

(7). Trim the seam allowance to ¼”.

Turn the bag right side out, and press

using the sleeve board or ham. Place

the double-sided, fusible, stiff inter-

facing strip in the bag bottom,aligning the corners. Following the

manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the

strip to the bag interior.

Construct the lining using the same

method as for the bag, leaving a 3½”opening on one side seam. Create the

box bottom as detailed for the bag.

Construct the handle and the tab

closures, and apply them to the bag as

detailed for the small rounded bag.

Join the lining to the bag as given inthe small rounded bag directions.

Pull the bag through the lining side

opening. Pull the lining completely

out of the bag.

Fold in the lining opening edges; press.

Edgestitch the opening closed.

Tuck the lining into the bag. Roll the

upper edges slightly to the inside, and

pin in place.

Apply the fringe to the bag upper

edge, starting at one side seam and

keeping the edges even. Position a

strip of ⅜”-wide iron-on adhesive

under the trim band, and follow the

manufacturer’s instructions to adhere.Stitch around the bag upper edge

through all layers, keeping the tabs

free.

Stitch the lining to the bag lower

corners, and attach the snaps as

detailed for the small bag.

sources

Husqvarna Viking Sewing Machines,www.husqvarnaviking.com, provided

the machine used to make this project.

C&T Publishing, www.ctpub.com,provided the heavyweight fast2fusedouble-sided fusible stiff interfacing.

Therm O Web, www.thermoweb.com,provided the HeatnBond Lite Iron-on

6 Cut out square at lower corner.

7 Stitch across cut edge.

1”

1”

5 Seam strips along lengthwise edges.

sn ebook june

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