Sock tutorial

Factory : IL Bangla (Interloop) - NarsingdiVisited date : 31st Oct 2015

Participants : Anuruddha Indatissa along with Howlader Jashim Uddin & Nayan Majumder.

Anatomy of a sock & Shoe size vs Sock size

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Leg

Top welt Sock Size

APPROXIMATE SHOE SIZECHILDREN MENS AND BOYS LADIES

3.0 Baby3.5 004.0 0 - 14.5 1½ - 25.0 3 - 45.5 4½ - 56.0 6 - 76.5 7½ - 8½7.0 9 - 107.5 10½ - 11½8.0 12 - 13 18.5 13½ - 1½ 1½ - 2½ 2½ - 3½9.0 2 - 3 3 - 4 4 - 59.5 4½ - 5½ 5½ - 6½10.0 6 - 6½ 6½ - 7½10.5 7 - 8 8 - 911.0 8½ - 9 9½ - 10½11.5 9½ - 10 10½ - 11½12.0 10½ - 11 11½ - 1212.5 11½ 12½ - 1313.0 12 - 12½14.0 13 - 1415.0 14½ - 1616.0 16½ - 18

Sock Shape / Type

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Standard socks: over-the-calf / dress / long / tall / knee-high / executive / full-length socks mid-calf / crew / half-length socks ankle / anklet / sport / short / quarter-length socksFormal attire traditionally requires long/dress socks (to prevent any flashes of visible skin, and because they're less prone to bunching/falling).

Unseen Socks: no-show / liner / loafer / invisible / ped / low cut/ footie socksThe Naming of unseen socks is wildly non-standard. Socks named "no-show" might be anything from minimal all the way up to the ankle bone.

Right now LF developing 3 socks for customer MEIJER

Crew (Standard Sock)

Low Cut (Unseen)

No Show (Unseen)

Main different between Low cut &

No Show is Top Welt height.

Low cut style Top Welt height is bigger than No Show style

Sock Heel types

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There are varies type of sock heel’s & during our visit we have studied below 3..

“Y” heel = Gives more room for fitting. Real Heel = Straight Pouch Heel

Pouch heel

Real heel = Straight

“Y” heel

Pouch heel

Real heel = Straight

“Y” heel

No show

Low Cut

04

Arch support

Arch support use in order to hold sock in place i/of slide around inside shoe.

No show

Low Cut

Without Arch support style

With Arch support style

Sock Measurements

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1. Most of customer provide original sample & manufacture follow the same.2. Manufacture well aware Shoe size vs Sock size. So they make sure to maintain standard measurements.3. According to Interloop experience they prefer below measurements for the sock.

Without arch No show & Low cut styles

Without arch Crew With arch No show & Low cut styles

With arch Crew

Sock Sizing & fitting

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Sock sizing with range. That range will be Lower end of stretch & upper end of stretch.

Below are the example: Size 9-11 for Young Men‘s Size 10 – 13 for Regular Men's Size 13 – 16 for Plus

For USA customers need to use NAHM (National Association of Hosiery Manufactures) foot form to check fitting.For European customer’s using leg shape forms.

For USA customers

For European customers

NAHM foot form - National Association of Hosiery Manufactures board

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Toe gore

Heel gore

The seams of the sock at the heel & toe should line up in the center of the holes on the NAHM board.

NAHM board fitting

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This is a good fit. The sock is hugging the board & all seams line up with the proper holes. No excess fabric at the toe

This sock is too big for this board. Seams do not align with holes & sock drops off the board.

Another bad fitting. Although seams are spaced in the correct alignment holes, there is too much bulk at the top of the sock.

Important tips to use NAHM foot form

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1. Finished socks should be tested both before & after launderings (following AATCC test method 135).

2. Stretch socks must fit both the lower and upper ends of a specified size range. For example: 10-13 sock must neither fit too loose on size 10 form nor too tight on size 13 form.

3. Each sock can only be sized one time & the order of sizing must always be smaller NAHM first then larger NAHM board.

Finished sock after wash. First check hand feel & then measure.

Then select the NAHM form representing the lower end of the intended sizing range. Pull the sock on the form without stretching the fabric and then smooth out the wrinkles.

Sm

alle

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Big

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ize

After that select the NAHM form representing the higher end of the intended sizing range. Pull the sock on the form stretching the sock fabric to maximum extension without breaking the sock fibers.

Do not measure fitted sock.Do not Fit again. This sock can not use again.

Yarn composition

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Yarn details & fiber composition differ design / style & customer wise.

Example:

Yarn details:• Welt + Body Main Yarn # 20/1 RW spun polyester 100%• Body Plating yarn # 150-20 6% poly cover spandex RW • Rib + Welt Plating yarn # 150D polyester RW• Heel & toe yarn # 20/1 Grey H-12• Elastic # 140-75 15% poly cover spandex RW• Tie down # 70/24/4 DN TXD RAW WHITE NYLON 100%• Linking Yarn # 30/2 DN TXD RW 120101 NYLON 100%• Motif # 70/2 nylon ( Only for SL-7)

Fiber Composition:• 85% Polyester• 12 % Cotton• 2% Spandex• 1% Nylon

Purpose of Plating yarn:

Plating is the process of laying a yarn (usually a spandex yarn) behind the body yarn in a sock to provide a fabric that has stretch properties. Plating provides for a range of fit. Example: Size 9 to size 11 sock.

Main yarn

Sock knitting machine

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There are varies type of knitting machines

Example: Machine Gauge # 9” , Needle 144, Diameter # 4”This machine can perform all type of socks across all the size range.

Quality controlling check point’s in bulk production

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QA inspection table in production floor

Stretch test.Every 8 hours check stretch check & maintain records

Processing Lab:This lab fully dedicate to perform all the necessary test during production.

Toe Joining

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Interloop Bangladesh using automated machine to join Toe.Apart from toe joining this machine will turn right side out.

Toe Joining Sock turn right side out

Key production quality defects

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1) Inside thread can not have any bridge. This is Critical defect..

2) Toe joining can not be way / puckering.

2) Knitting holes.

2) Stain. / Dirt marks

2) Yarn shorts.

Toe joining can not be way / puckering.

Inside thread can not have any bridge. This is Critical defect.

Bridge not acceptable

Thread end not too short or too long

Washing

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It is mandatory to wash sock’s with necessary chemicals & softeners as per the standered

Pressing

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Using polished aluminum leg form to press socks. This aluminum leg form stretch the sock to require size to achieve spec measurement.Then using automated pressing machine to press socks

Comparison

This aluminum leg form is to achieve spec during pressing

This NAHM board using to check fitting of same size sock.

In house Quality Assurance lab

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All the incoming raw martials test from fty in house Quality Assurance lab before issuing to knitting department.Below are some of the test that they perform in in-house lab

1. Wicking test2. Yarn twisting tester (twill per inch)3. Yarn count test.4. Crocking test.5. Color fastness to washing.6. Color fastness to perspiration.7. Yarn count checking.8. Yarn shrinkage test9. Yarn wrapping test.

Vertical wicking test

Crocking test

Training & development in the workplace.

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Interloop Bangladesh management well understand the Importance of Training & Development in the Workplace.

• For new joiners• Addressing Weaknesses• Improved Employee Performance• Consistency• Employee Satisfaction

Thank You