sojourn summer 2009

GAGA FOR THE GUNKSResources for hiking the Shawangunk Ridge

GRAPE ESCAPETouring the Hudson Valley’s wineries

HUDSON QUADRICENTENNIALA guide to the summer’s celebration

BUS INESS

TOURISM EDUC

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NEW PALTZREGIONALCHAMBERCOMMERCE

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NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCEwww.newpaltzchamber.org

A SEASONAL GUIDE TO THE MID-HUDSON VALLEY

SUMMER 2009

MinnewaskaLodge

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SOJOURN SUMMER 2009 1

Come visit us at: 134 Main St. New Paltz, NY 12561

845-255-9400westwoodrealty.com

“Now is the time to buy” The real estate professionals at Westwood are here to help you.

Call, or stop in when you are in the neighborhood.

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2 WWW.NEWPALTZCHAMBER.ORG THE NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

How can I begin to describe sum-mer in New York’s Hudson Valley? Living here, there is so much that I

take for granted. Taking in the cool Hudson River breeze, lazy days on our sand beaches or swimming in our glacial lakes, bicycling on our rail trails, soaking up our region’s rich history and culture, sampling the bounty of our farms and orchards, enjoying the sights and scents of our flowering gardens, deli-cious meals eaten al fresco, bracing hikes and breathtaking views…This is just some of the good stuff Hudson Valley residents enjoy ev-ery day, all summer long.

Sojourn can help you find the good stuff too. Whether you’re seeking rest and relax-ation or an outdoor adventure, the historical perspective or agricultural delights, Sojourn will give you what you need to get started dis-covering the Hudson Valley. In this issue, we’ll give you an inside look at the sustainable and delicious relationship between local farms and regional restaurants, along with highlights of the Shawangunk Wine Trail, itineraries and suggestions of what to see or do, a calendar of exciting summer events, and much more!

You’ll also learn more about the sixth annual New Paltz Regional Garden Tour, which this year will celebrate the Hudson Quadricentennial by featuring gardens on or near the Hudson River, and get a sneak peak at the 19th annual Taste of New Paltz, a Hudson Valley festival of food and fun. Both events are projects of the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce. The Cham-ber is proud to serve as a resource for visitors to our region, providing literature, tips, and advice year-round in our visitor center and through our popular website, www.newpaltzchamber.org. We hope you stop by to see us at 124 Main St., New Paltz, or drop us a line through the Contact Us section of our website.

Best,

Joyce M. Minard

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Letter from

Joyce Minard

Front Cover Hikers traversing Bonticou Crag atop the Shawangunk Ridge in the Mohonk Preserve. Photo by Teresa Horganwww.teresahorgan.com

Sojourn is published quarterly by the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce in collaboration with Luminary Publishing.

Information in this publication was carefully compiled to ensure maximum accuracy. However, the New Paltz Regional Chamber cannot guarantee the correctness of all information provided herein. Readers noting inaccurate information should contact the Chamber with corrections and updates.

© 2009 New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce and Luminary Publishing is strictly prohibited.

The New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce is located at 124 Main Street, Suite 8, New Paltz, NY, 12561. 845-255-0243. Fax: 845-255-5189.


6 History: Street of Dreams Take a stroll down one of the county’s oldest thoroughfares at Historic Huguenot Street.

11 Suggested Hikes Spectacular vistas await hikers of every level along the trails of the Shawangunk Ridge.

12 Antiques: Trolling for Treasures The Hudson Valley is an antiques destination, with shops for collectors in every town and hamlet.

15 Wine Trail: Grape Escape Discover what the buzz about Hudson Valley wine is all about along the Shawangunk Wine Trail.

18 Dining: Eating Farm Fresh Taste the area’s bounty at the numerous restaurants that showcase locally grown fare.

22 Hudson Quadricentennial In 1609, an Englishman sailing for the Dutch found a river. The rest, as they say, is history.

26 Event Listings There is always something going on in the Mid-Hudson Valley. Sojourn’s humble suggestions.

34 Lodged in the Mountains The summer is all about the outdoors, and where you stay should give you quick access.

40 Culinary Itinerary Take a cooking class, tour a winery, or just chow down—the Mid-Hudson Valley is foodie country.

43 Cultural Itinerary A guide to some of the summer season’s best bets, from theater to historic sites to museums.

46 Information Resources you might need during your visit.

48 Regional Map Who says you can’t get there from here?

SUMMER 2009

8 Gaga for the Gunks

It’s easy to understand why the Nature Conservancy calls the Shawangunks “One of the

Earth’s Last Great Places.”


The New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce is a distinguished member of:

American Chamber of Commerce Executives (ACCE)

Chamber Alliance of New York State (CANYS)

The Business Council of New York State, Inc. (BCNYS)

Mid-Hudson Pattern for Progress

Southern Ulster Alliance

Business Marketing Association—Hudson Valley Chapter

New York’s Tech Valley Chamber Coalition

Hudson Valley Regional Coalition (One Valley—One Voice)

Who We Are

The New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce, organized in 1900, plays a vital role in nurturing our community and forging strong relationships between businesses and residents in the Hudson Valley. The Chamber’s efforts promote growth, prosperity, a sense of local pride, and a high quality of life. For businesses, the Chamber offers a variety of benefits, including rewarding networking events, cost-ef-fective promotional opportunities, professional development seminars, a full range of insurance prod-ucts, presence on a highly-visible website, and many opportunities for community involvement. The Chamber is a trusted resource for regional information, providing an online calendar of events and lit-erature to area residents and visitors, as well as offering relocation information to those moving to the area. The New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce is the only Chamber in the Hudson Valley with a regional Visitor Center, providing a wealth of information and welcoming visitors year-round.

The Regional Chamber of Commerce Foundation at New Paltz aids and augments the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce’s current slate of successful educational programs. The Foundation envisions a comprehensive program of educational activities and scholarships, all geared toward educating and supporting the community.

Connect. Communicate. Collaborate.

PHOTO By TERESA HORGAN


BOARD OFFICERS

Chair Ernie VanDeMark Central

Hudson Gas & Electric Corp.

1st Vice Chair Chris Drouin Beyond

Wealth Management

2nd Vice Chair Craig Shankles PDQ Printing

and Graphics

Treasurer Sue VanVoorhis M&T Bank

Financial Advisor Jerry Luke Fox Hill B&B

Legal Counsel Paul O’Neill Attorney at Law

Past Chair Robert Glemming

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

Frank Curcio Clear Channel Radio of the Hudson Valley

Chris Drouin Beyond Wealth Management

Kay Hoiby FreeFall Express/dba Blue Sky Ranch

Dr. David Ness Performance Sports & Wellness

Kathleen Packard KathodeRay Media

Craig Shankles PDQ Printing and Graphics

Shelley Turk Rocking Horse Ranch

Connie Harkin Ulster Savings

Richard Heyl de Ortiz Historic Huguenot Street

EMERITUS MEMBERS

Robert Leduc Mohonk Mountain House

Rick Lewis Riverside Bank

Margaret McDowell Bermac Home Aides, Inc.

Off. Scott Schaffrick New Paltz Police Department

CHAMBER STAFF

President Joyce Minard

Director of Marketing and Communications

Christine Crawfis

Membership Director Cathy Hyland

Communications and Programs Administrator

Janet Nurre

Assistant Director of Finance & Membership

Lucy Paradies

LUMINARy PUBLISHING

Publisher Jason Stern

Editorial Director Brian K. Mahoney

Art Director Jason Cring

Production Director Lesley Stone

Business Development Director Maryellen Case

Director of Operations Amara Projansky

Business Manager Ruth Samuels

Sales Associate Erika DeWitt

Designers Eileen Carpenter, Mary Maguire

Interns Kristopher Konyak, KellyAnne McGuire,

Kerry Puorro, Rachel Carey

Production Director Emeritus Teal Hutton


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To understand New Paltz, pay a visit to Huguenot Street. At the foot of the hill, beside the Wallkill River, very near the

bustle of Main Street and yet somehow in a world of its own, is a swath of history so vital that one can nearly feel the ancestors passing to and fro, going about their daily business.

The preservation and cherishing of this centuries-old legacy is itself an old tale by now. It was in 1894 that the descendants of the earli-est settlers organized, establishing the Hugue-not Patriotic, Historical and Monumental So-ciety. Five years later, they purchased the Jean Hasbrouck House. In the 1950s, Director Ken-neth Hasbrouck saw the potential for an act of unique preservation—an entire street with its original stone houses intact, serving as a cen-tral gathering spot for the treasure trove of his-toric and genealogical artifacts that the fami-lies had been preserving.

Today, Historic Huguenot Street includes 49 properties (museum houses, outbuildings, and staff housing), 11 Family Associations, and over 2,000 members. In 2008, over 18,000 people visited Historic Huguenot Street and Locust Lawn, the 1814 Federal-style home of a gentle-man farmer. And although many descendants of the first families remain active in HHS affairs, the focus has been broadened and deepened to create a sort of people’s history of the 1700s.

“It only makes sense that the Huguenots founded a town that’s known for its tolerance and open-mindedness,” says Richard Heyl de Or-tiz, director of public programs at HHS. “They

were never the mainstream in the first place. They were refugees, people who’d faced persecu-tion for questioning the status quo. And archae-ological studies that have been taking place are unfolding a context for these stone houses that keeps getting more exciting. There were French-speaking folk who’d finally found a haven, native people, and Africans—it’s a 300-year-old story. Not a perfect story—a story of humans in early America, and the more we come to understand, the more relevant it becomes to our lives today. We had a teacher from [New York’s Chinatown bring her class here to talk about the experience of being from a family that had come here recent-ly—she’d heard of Huguenot Street, a historic site where people had come to create new lives.”

“There’s not much written about the rela-tions between the patentees and the people who were already living here, but we do know that they never came to blows. Everyone in-volved was creative enough to find a way to suc-ceed without that. That, to me, is extremely rel-evant history,” says Heyl de Ortiz.

Relevant programming brings that his-tory to vivid life. In the summer, archaeology camps for all ages and a special Time Travel-ers Week for kids coexist with the modern New Paltzonians walking dogs, riding bikes, and en-joying HHS’s nature preserve. There are art ex-hibits and Moonlight Magic Tours and croquet on the lawn of the Deyo House over wine and lemonade. There are educational programs for the kids—they can even spend the night living the 1700s life—and for the adults, there are spe-

Street of DreamsBy ANNE PyBURN

HISTORy

The Abraham Hasbrouck House at Historic Huguenot Street. Built in 1722, this is one of seven colonial stone house museums open to the public at this National Historic Landmark District in New Paltz.

Photo by Charles Lyle


cial tours geared to antique lovers, genealogy buffs, gardeners, and restorers of historic homes. There are evenings of candlelight and others of baroque music in the Old French Church, and special reservations-required opportunities to explore the vast archives. You can marry at the church, or arrange a company or family picnic on the grand lawn of the Deyo House.

Or just take a walk through the neighbor-hood, any old time. You’ll see the simple stone homes that first replaced the late-17th-centu-ry huts once the Huguenots realized they were home to stay, and the Dubois Fort, little changed since the 1830s. You’ll see a reconstructed 1717 church and the churchyard where loved ones were laid to rest.

Continue your exploration—get inside with a guided tour, available on a walk-in basis from May through October, or by appointment al-most any time. The museum houses are fur-nished with period and heirloom pieces. Guides immerse themselves in the lore of 18th-centu-ry Die Pfalz (as the ancestors called it) but do not work from a set script; they are trained to re-spond to each individual guest’s questions.

Interested in learning about a particular as-pect of history or a particular Huguenot family? Let the HHS folks know and they’ll customize a tour just for you and/or set up an appointment for you to browse their vast archives. Historic Huguenot Street—just moments (and centuries) from Main Street—welcomes all comers.

INFORMATION

HISTORIC HUGUENOT STREET81 Huguenot Street, New Paltz 845-255-1660; www.huguenotstreet.orgTours daily (except Wednesday) from 10:30 a.m.–5 p.m. from the Dubois Fort.

Warm smiles and period costumes greet visitors to special events at Historic

Huguenot Street in New Paltz. Photo by Stefan Thalemann


Just west of New Paltz a geologic wonder-land arises. A tree-filled ridgeline settled atop a stone pedestal that is surrounded

by verdant green underbrush creates an aston-ishing tricolor horizon.

Informally known as the Gunks, the Sha-wangunk Ridge is home to glacial lakes, massive rock formations, and 35 unique ecological com-munities. It is such a diverse and yet connected habitat that it’s easy to understand why the Nature Conservancy has deemed this area “One of the Earth’s Last Great Places.”

From the south, where wind-blown pitch pines seem to defy gravity as they branch out over rock-filled summits, to the north, where hardy evergreens create lush, forestlike condi-tions, the quiet beauty and easy access of the Gunks are unparalleled.

From its early days as refuge to the Lenape Indians, to its current role as sanctuary from the everyday pressures of living in the 21st century, this area lures people. Year-round recreational opportunities exist, and in the summer, when the cool glacial lakes and breezy sunset nights beckon most strongly, visitors truly descend on the area.

The cliff-hanging quartz walls attract expert mountain climbers from throughout the world, and at the same time, its 100 miles of groomed carriage trails make for a leisurely family stroll

or exhilarating bike ride. Clear glacial lakes, nat-ural streams, and seasonal waterfalls also wind through the Gunks.

Almost half a million people visit annually. Parking lots on summer and fall weekends fill early, yet the constant claim of successfully con-necting with nature is heard repeatedly. Young and old investigate the area, finding sanctuary

and solace in the 40,000-acre preserve.

But the current organized, calm planning and preserva-tion effort belies the Shawan-gunk’s turbulent past.

More than 465 million years ago, this area was home to a thick, dark sediment that

formed into shale, as the Earth’s plates crashed and the crust erupted and folded into what is now known as the Appalachian Fold. When glacial activity and pressure thrust quartz upon that layer 415 million years ago, and then compressed the covering of tiny stones and rocks into a tight, sturdy white conglom-erate, a truly unique region formed. The Sha-wangunks were born from a perfect geologic storm. The hardness, steepness, and layering of the rock reveal both the strength and beauty of nature’s forces.

Not as tall as the nearby Taconic Moun-tain Range—which once measured as high as the Rocky Mountains, before time and weath-er wore it down—or as clearly defined as the

...in the summer, the cool glacial

lakes and breezy sunset nights beckon

Gaga for the Gunks By THERESA KEEGAN

PHOTO By SUSAN LEHRER

HIKE

Hikers enjoying the view on top of Bonticou Crag at the Mohonk Preserve.


Catskill Range to the north, the Gunks became its own unique ecosystem, which still thrives to-day, thanks to the vision of preservationists and outdoor enthusiasts.

It is home to 1,400 known species, includ-ing 50 mammals, 18 reptiles, and 23 amphibians. There are 200 species of birds that fly in and over the ridge. Within its boundaries live 900 flow-ering plants and hundreds of ferns, mosses, li-chens, and fungi.

Such diversity is not easily maintained. A myriad of jurisdictional boundaries lie atop this land like a patchwork quilt. Preserves, open space and private landowners are all found within the Gunks, bound together by the com-mon thread of monitoring the area not only for preservation, but also for public use.

Although an often contrasting goal in oth-er communities, this combination has been the foundation of modern usage in the Gunks.

One of the earliest proponents of the Gunks was the Smiley family, who established the Mohonk Mountain House 140 years ago. Their aim was to promote health and spiritual-ity. by offering an environment that embraced both reflection and recreation.

It’s a goal that, like the mountains them-selves, stands the test of time.

INFORMATION

SAM’S POINT PRESERVEThe highest point on the Shawangunk Ridge, Sam’s Point’s 5,400 acres are owned by the Open Space Institute, and managed by The Nature Conservancy.FEE: $7 parking fee per car.INFO: 845-647-7989; www.nature.org.DIRECTIONS (From New Paltz): Take Rt. 299 west 6 miles to Rt. 44/55. Make a right onto Rt. 44/55; follow to Rt. 209. Make a left onto 209 toward Ellenville. In Ellenville center, turn left onto Rt. 52. Follow for approximately 4 miles. Make a left onto Cragsmoor Road. Go one mile to the Cragsmoor post office. Make a right in front of post office. Go a short dis-tance and make a right onto Sam’s Point Road and follow 2 miles to the Preserve entrance.

MINNEWASKA STATE PARK PRESERVEThe jewel of Ulster County’s state parks, Minnewaska offers swimming, biking, rock climbing, picnicking and hiking.FEE: $6 per carINFO: 845-256-0579; www.nysparks.state.ny.us/parksDIRECTIONS (From New Paltz): Take Rt. 299 6 miles west to Rt. 44/55. Make a right onto 44/55 and follow for 5 miles. Park entrance on left.

MOHONK PRESERVE New York State’s largest nonprofit natural preserve.6,500 acres, the Mohonk preserve has 70 miles of trails for hiking and biking; rock climbing INFO: 845-255-0919; www.mohonkpreserve.orgFEE: Hiking/Biking - $10; Climbing - $15 DIRECTIONS (From New Paltz): Take Rt. 299 6 miles west to Rt. 44/55. Make a right onto 44/55, the Visitor’s Center is a half-mile on the right.


Ellenville

Shawangunk

Kerhonkson

Accord


SUGGESTED HIKES

The Shawangunk Mountains has a variety of hiking opportunities within its many micro-environments. Three of the most popular are: Sam’s Point Preserve, Minnewaska State Park Preserve, and the Mohonk Preserve.

SAM’S POINT PRESERVEDon’t miss: Ridgetop Dwarf Pine Barrens, Verkeerder Kill Falls, Ice Caves, and the locals’ very own “blue gold”: huckleberries.MUST-DO HIKES:Easy: Ice Caves. 1.5 miles from the Visitor’s Center, you pass scenic Sam’s Point and are treated to a refreshingly cool journey through the winding cave. Even in summer, ice often remains, thanks to the unique bedrock frac-tures and massive talus blocks where snow enters, but is unable to escape.More difficult: Take the Loop Road 1 mile to the Verkeerder Kill Falls Trails, where, after 2 miles, you can view 180 feet of falling water. Turn north and travel 2.4 miles to enjoy the view from 2,246 feet above sea level. You’ve now been to the highest point and the tallest waterfall in the Gunks. Look out for berries in season along the 2.5-mile walk back along High Point Carriageway.

MINNEWASKA STATE PARK PRESERVEDon’t miss: Numerous educational programs. See the cycle of life in action as the surround-ing areas rebound from extensive fires in 2008, and ice damage from this past winter.MUST-DO HIKES: Easy: The appropriately, if not very inventively, named Trail Around the Lake includes many up-close opportunities forviews of Lake Min-newaska. The clear glacial lake reflects the sky and on a sunny day is a refreshing swimming spot, with lifeguards on duty at the beach. If these 2 miles along groomed carriage trails aren’t enough, extend the walk around the lake to include Lake Awosting.More difficult: Venture up to the Castle Point Carriageway on the west side of Lake Min-newaska. Although it may be hard to leave the scenic lake area, you’ll be rewarded with amazing views of the Wallkill Valley. The sites are so spectacular, it justifies going out and back on the same trail, for a total of 7 miles.

MOHONK PRESERVE Don’t miss: Educational programs, climbing, and the historic Trapps Mountain Hamlet Path to Van Leuven Cabin. MUST-DO HIKE:Easy: The loop trail of the Undercliff and Over-cliff Carriage Roads is a 5-mile journey that reveals not just the stunning rock formations, some as tall as 300 feet, but also the skill of climbers as they ascend and descend on the “Shawangunk Cement.”More difficult: Bonticou Crag offers adventure-some hikers an opportunity to rock scramble through some challenging talus piles or to stay on a traditional path. Either way, the 3-mile round-trip hike takes you from lush valleys to atop a stunning white crag with breathtaking views of the valley.


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If you have ever strolled down the main drag of New Paltz, you have no doubt come upon the Water Street Market, a village unto itself. A few steps in from

the street, this open-air plaza boasts over 20 award-winning shops, including two antique stores owned by the market’s manager, Wal-ter Marquez. The current president of the Antiques Dealers Association of Ulster County, Marquez has been committed to offering an ex-tensive and quality array of antiques to shoppers in the Hudson Valley for 10 years and counting.

His fascination with an-tiques goes back further. As a child, he would spend hours on end with his grandmother, talking about her collection and rifling through old photographs. He went on to become a kitchen designer, while his personal collecting flourished. Among oth-er things, he nurtured an assortment of Santa Claus figurines that now numbers 800 strong. His true passion was so obvious to his loved ones that when a friend decided to open an an-tique shop a decade ago, she invited him to join her. He rallied without hesitation.

According to Marquez, his two business-es are about more than just interacting with dealers and stocking the floor. “A lot of people collect something, whether it’s newer or older,” he says. “I love the thrill and the fun of meet-

ing those people. They come here and see items that bring back childhood memories. They tell me their stories.”

Marquez says this is especially true at the Antiques Barn at Water Street Market. Me-andering toward the back of the New Paltz mar-ket, customers must ascend a flight of stairs to enter the big red barn, which itself holds two sto-ries of fun, rustic items provided by over 26 deal-

ers. The turnover of these pieces—dating from the 19th century to the 1970s—is high, and there is always new mer-chandise, so customers come back to reminisce again and again, purchasing affordable furniture and curios along the way.

While the Antiques Center at Water Street Market might stimulate a shopper’s medial temporal lobe, it also proffers a slightly different batch of goods from Marquez’s barn. With painted walls and loads of windows, this bright shop flaunts a retro vibe. Jewelry, pottery, glassware, vintage clothes, and furniture tend to date back to the ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s.

Sanford Levy’s eclectic wares are some-times ancient by comparison. His establish-ment Jenkinstown Antiques is located in an historic storefront a few miles down from the Water Street Market and across from the old college diner, in the section of New Paltz that was called Helltown in the 1820s. Dating back

“They come here and see

items that bring back childhood

memories.”

Trolling for TreasuresThe Hudson Valley as an Antiques DestinationBy ERIKA ALExIA

SHOP

Exterior of Walter Marquez’s antiques shop, located at Water Street Market in New Paltz. Image Provided


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RESOURCES

Antiques Dealers Association of Ulster Countywww.adauc.com

Hudson Antique Dealers Associationwww.hudsonantiques.net

Antiques Barn and Antiques Center at the Water Street Market 10 Main Street, New Paltz 845-255-1403; www.waterstreetmarket.com

Jenkinstown Antiques 13 Old Route 299, New Paltz 845-255-4876; www.jenkinstownantiques.com

On the Hill at Skilly Pot Antiques 41 Broadway; Kingston 845-338-6779

For more information on antique shops, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.

Items from Jenkinstown Antiques on display, including an English settle bench, circa 1750; a mid 19th-century large wool washing hexagonal weave basket; a teddy bear, 1910; an 18th-century

cherry Hudson Valley candlestand; and a signed Pennsylvania copper kettle. Image Provided

as far as the 18th century, Levy’s stoneware, fur-niture, and accessories are often native to the Hudson Valley. The art hails from the Hudson River School and the Woodstock artist colonies. Levy opened his first shop in Woodstock while he was college. A long-time Hudson Valley resi-dent who has been dealing in antiques for over 25 years, Levy is a bonafide expert in the area.

Although a transplant to the Hudson Valley, Sue Schreter could not be a bigger fan. “[The re-gion is] rich with culture and history,” she says. “If you are into history, you are into the Hudson Valley. And you’re into antiques.” Schreter began throw-ing yard sales after being laid off from IBM in 1989, and found her calling. Her store, On the Hill at Skilly Pot Antiques, is situated in the charming Roundout section of Kingston. Her blend of diver-sified dealers guarantees an interesting and af-fordable mix of furniture, pottery, glassware, toys, postcards, nautical items and more, all displayed thoughtfully across her sales floor.

Next, head further north on the New York State Thruway to Hudson, where more than 65 antique shops open their doors year round. Fea-turing antiques and decorative objects from the 17th through the 20th centuries, stores such as Keystone, Gottlieb Gallery and Vincent R. Mul-ford Antiques contribute to making Hudson one of the premier antiques and art centers in the country.

“The more, the merrier,” says Marquez of the countless antique stores in his beloved valley.

“It’s not a competition. If you have more than five stores together, you have a destination.”

The Hudson Valley, then, is an essential an-tiques destination, a place to collect treasures and recollect the good old days, all against a

backdrop replete with history and brimming with natural beauty.

Colorful vintage collectibles from the 1950s to the 1970s from the Antiques Barn at

Water Street Market. Image Provided


Over three centuries ago, a winemak-ing tradition was established in the Hudson Valley, when French Hugue-

not settlers planted vines in New Paltz in 1677. Since then, the area has been slowly gaining recognition for the wine it produces, even being called by some “the Napa of the East.” The Hud-son Valley is now home to over 25 wineries. The Shawangunk Wine Trail, which is comprised of 11 family owned and operated vineyards and wineries, spans Ulster and Orange Counties.

Grape growing and wine making has come a long way since the 17th century. Advance-ments in horticulture are changing the experi-ence for many growers—hybrid grapes (crosses between traditional varieties and wild grapes) are being planted for their region-specific har-diness, with great results. Yancey Migliore, co-owner of Whitecliff Vineyard and Winery in Gardiner, is proud of the work they do with the new varieties coming out: “We are very experi-mental. We are willing to push the envelope in terms of what’s grown here, the quality of wines made, and that comes from trial and error.” This willingness to delve into new varieties of grapes has been instrumental in many of the wines that the Hudson River Region produces.

Each winery along the Shawangunk Wine Trail has an extensive history. Many are recognized historic landmarks, including Brotherhood in Washingtonville and Adair Vineyards in New Paltz—both listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Brotherhood is also considered to be the oldest winery in America since it has been continuously operated since 1839, while Benmarl Winery in Marlboro is America’s oldest vineyard. Many

of the more recent wineries operate on historic sites, including Glorie Farm Winery in Marlboro, which is housed in a 1913 barn.

An extensive variety of wines is available for the ambitious oenophile. Classic varieties such as merlot, pinot noir, and chardonnay are sta-ples, while many blends are also popular, includ-ing Whitecliff’s Awosting White, a light and re-freshing wine, and Brimstone Hill Vineyard’s Vin Rouge, a dry red. Fruit libations are also extremely prevalent; some successes include Warwick Valley Winery and Distillery’s three time award-winning Doc’s Draft Hard Apple Cider and Baldwin Vine-yard’s world-famous Strawberry Wine. Steven Kolpan, professor of wine studies at the Culinary Institute of America and wine columnist for the Valley Table, says, “The Hudson Valley has perfect soil and weather to make really good wine, and it’s been proven because people have made it.”

In addition to visiting each winery’s tasting room, there are several ways to experience the Trail. Vineyards hold summer events that show-case their extensive and beautiful properties. Brotherhood hosts the Blanc & Noir Film Series each Saturday, during which classic and contem-porary black-and-white films such as Casablan-ca ( July 18) are screened outside with a selection of wine, fruit, and cheese available. Warwick Val-ley Winery and Distillery has several music fes-tivals, including a Grateful Dead Fest (August 22 and 23). “The Bounty of the Hudson” (August 1 and 2), hosted by Millbrook Winery, is the pre-mier wine event of the summer. It will bring rep-resentatives from all eleven wineries under one tent, and will feature food from restaurants such as Gigi Trattoria and Wild Hive Café, as well as local produce from area farms.

GRAPE ESCAPEOn the Shawangunk Wine Trail By KELLyANNE MCGUIRE

WINE

The many offerings of the Warwick Valley Winery and Distillery. Image Provided


SHAWANGUNK WINE TRAIL

ADAIR VINEyARDS52 Allhusen Road, New Paltz845-255-1377www.adairwine.comHours: July-August: Friday, Saturday, Sunday 11 a.m.-6 p.m.September: Daily 11 a.m.-6 p.m.Directions: From NYS Thruway (87): Take exit 18 (Poughkeepsie/New Paltz). After tollbooth, turn left onto Rt. 299. At 3rd stoplight, turn left onto Rt. 32 South. Proceed about 5.5 miles to Allhusen Road. Turn left. (If you pass Tech-mer’s Nursery, you have gone too far.) The vineyard is about 1/2 mile on the right.

APPlEWOOD WINERy82 Four Corners Road, Warwick845-988-9292 www.applewoodwinery.comHours: July-August: Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.-5 p.m. September: Friday, Saturday, Sunday 11 a.m.-5 p.m.Directions: From NYS Thruway (87): Take exit 16 (Harriman), then Rt. 17 west to exit 127 (Greycourt Road). Follow the signs to Sugar Loaf, then Warwick, County Rt. 13 and/or 13A. Look for the grape-cluster wine trail signs. Three miles past Sugar Loaf, turn right on Four Corners Road. Go one mile. Take a right down a long dirt road.

BAlDWIN VINEyARDS176 Hardenburgh Road, Pine Bush845-744-2226 www.baldwinvineyards.comHours: July-September: Daily (closed Tues-day) 12 p.m.-5 p.m.Directions: From NYS Thruway (87): Take exit 16 (Harriman) onto Rt. 17 to exit 119. Go right onto Rt. 302 into Pine Bush. Cross Rt. 52 and follow the signs one mile. The winery is on the right.

BENMARl WINERyat Slate Hill Vineyards156 Highland Avenue, Marlboro845-236-4265 www.benmarl.comHours: July-September: Daily 12 p.m.-6 p.m.Directions: From Rt. 84: Go about 5 miles north on Rt. 9W, make a left at Conway Road. Follow to the split in the road, then bear right and follow to Benmarl Winery, which is on the right.

BRIMSTONE HIll VINEyARD61 Brimstone Hill Road, Pine Bush845-744-2231 www.brimstonehillwine.comHours: July-September: Friday, Saturday, Sun-day, Monday 11:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m.Directions: From NYS Thruway (87): Take exit 16 (Harriman), then Rt. 17 west to exit 119. Go right onto Rt. 302 to Pine Bush. At the red light in Pine Bush, go left on Rt. 52 to the light at New Prospect Road and turn right. Go 1/2 mile, then left onto Brimstone Hill Road. The winery is roughly 2 miles from Pine Bush.

BROTHERHOOD WINERy100 Brotherhood Plaza, Washingtonville845-496-3661 www.brotherhoodwinery.netHours: July-September: Daily 11 a.m.-5 p.m.Directions: Take Thurway exit 17 (Newburgh) and go right on 17K. Then take a left onto Rt. 300, and then right onto Rt. 207. Go left onto Toleman Road, and left again onto Ahern Bou-levard. Go right onto Brotherhood Plaza Drive.

GlORIE FARM WINERy40 Mountain Road, Marlboro845-236-3265 www.gloriewine.comHours: July-August: Saturday, Sunday, Monday holidays 12 p.m.-5 p.m.September: Saturday, Sunday, Monday holi-days 12 p.m.-6 p.m.Directions: From Rt. 9W: Drive to the village of Marlboro. Turn west onto County Rt. 14 next to Key Bank. Go 1.8 miles to the stop sign. Turn right onto County Rt. 11. Drive one mile and turn left onto Reservoir Road. Drive one mile and turn right onto Mountain Road. The winery is on the left.

PAlAIA VINEyARDS Sweet Clover Road, Highland Mills845-928-5384 www.palaiavineyards.comHours: July-September: Sunday-Wednesday 12 p.m.-6 p.m., Thursday-Saturday 12 p.m.-10 p.m.Directions: From NYS Thruway (87): Take exit 16 (Harriman). After passing through the toll booth, follow the first exit to Rt. 32 north for 5 miles. Go back under Thruway and look to your left for Sweet Clover Road and the winery sign.

STOUTRIDGE VINEyARD10 Ann Kaley Lane, Marlboro845-236-7620www.stoutridge.comHours: July-September: Friday, Saturday, Sunday 11 a.m.-6 p.m.Directions: From Rt. 9W: Drive to the village of Marlboro. Turn west onto County Rt. 14 next to Key Bank. After 1/3 mile take the right onto Prospect Street. After 1/3 mile make a left onto Ann Kaley Lane. Proceed to the end.

WARWICK VAllEy WINERy & DISTIllERy114 Little York Road, Warwick845-258-6020 www.wvwinery.comHours: July-September: Daily 11 a.m.-6 p.m.Directions: From the center of Warwick: Head south on Main Street and proceed on Rt. 94 for 1/2 mile and make a right onto Rt. 1A. Travel west on Rt. 1A for approximately 5.5 miles and make a right onto Little York Road. The winery is one mile down on the right.

WHITEClIFF VINEyARD & WINERy331 McKinstry Road, Gardiner845-255-4613 www.whitecliffwine.comHours: July-September: Thursday-Monday 11:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m.Directions: Take Thruway exit 18 (New Paltz). Turn left onto Rt. 299. Drive through the town, across the Wallkill River, and bear left onto Libertyville Road at the fork, just past Wallkill View Farm. Stay on Libertyville Road for 6 miles to the junction with Route 44/55, where it becomes Bruynswick Road. Continue for 1.9 miles, and turn left onto McKinstry Rd. Whitec-liff Vineyard is .8 miles on the right-hand side.

For more information on wineries, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.


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Upcoming Events: August 1 & 2

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December 5,6,12,13,19 & 20 Wreath Fineries at the Wineries


The national trend toward locally grown organic foods isn’t new to the Hudson Valley. In towns like New Pal-

tz, the relationship between earth-conscious farmers and restaurateurs is just the natural way of doing business.

36 Main Restaurant and Wine Bar is relatively new to the New Paltz scene, having opened its doors in April 2008. But Executive Chef Adam Sternberg has always made an effort to work with as many locally grown items as he can, even when he was working in Manhattan and on Long Island.

“Back then, I used produce from up here down there,” Sternberg says. “I was raised on garden food. My family always had gardens, and we were using vegetables that came straight out of our own backyard.”

The backyard philosophy is one that Hud-son Valley restaurants in New Paltz take as se-riously as possible. Sternberg says 36 Main is a

big user of local produce, often crafting its menu around what happens to be available during a given growing season. And in a region so full of farms, there are plenty of options year round.

Many local farmers and consumers join a Community Supported Agriculture group like the Phillies Bridge Farm Project and the Hu-guenot Street Farm, both of which are located in New Paltz. Shares are purchased at a fixed cost prior to the beginning of the growing sea-son, giving everyone involved a stake in how it all turns out. The practice ensures the farm has the means to purchase everything it needs to ensure the best chance at having a good season of growing. In exchange, shareholders receive a seasonal variety of locally grown produce with the understanding that there are no guarantees when it comes to farming.

Ron Khosla runs the Huguenot Street Farm, which provides produce to numerous lo-cal eateries. He says the relationship between

EATING FARM

FRESHBounty in the Valley

By CRISPIN KOTT PHOTOS By TERESA HORGAN

DINE

Tomatoes and Delicata Squash available by the pound at Bradley Farm in New Paltz.


the two is good, in part because the buyers seem to understand that flexibility is an im-portant piece of the puzzle. Khosla says local chefs call frequently to see what’s available be-fore crafting their own menus. “They’re pretty easygoing,” he says. “If we have what they want, it’s great. And sometimes we have something they didn’t even think of.”

Sternberg says he enjoys the creativity such a process affords him when coming up with dishes. “When I plan a menu, I use what we can get, and will branch out locally depend-ing on what’s in season,” he says. “And with the relationships that I have now with my farmers, if it’s something they have an abundance of, I’ll use it.”

Khosla says local restaurateurs look to Hu-guenot Street for everything from tomatoes and greens to peppers, cucumbers, eggplants, beets, turnips, and potatoes. And according to Frank Kraat of Phillies Bridge, there are more and more local organic options for buyers.

“This area is very keen on locally grown pro-duce,” he says. “There’s close to 10 organic farms in the New Paltz area.”

And even in a rough economy, Sternberg says New Paltz restaurants are still doing plen-ty of business, both with those connected to the cyclical nature of university life and those liv-ing in the area on a full-time basis. And many of those restaurants are part of the contemporary trend toward using organic produce and meats.

“I want to see New Paltz thrive,” he says. “If I can buy locally from the guy down the street, I’d rather do that. When it comes down to the little guy, I try to give him my business.”

Mark Suszcynski of the Harvest Café agrees, saying that whenever possible, he pre-fers to not go up to Albany or down into New Jersey for produce, buying whatever he can as close to home as possible. It’s a gesture that not only inspires confidence in customers, but it’s also the right thing to do.

“It helps the local economy,” Suszcynski says. “New Paltz is driven within itself during these economic times. The community is doing well, and I think the money is spent back into the town.”

Suszcynski says he typically talks to growers each week on Tuesdays, getting a sense of what they have in abundance and beginning the pro-cess of creating specials for the weekend well in advance of the distribution of produce two days later. He also has a green thumb of his own, us-

“If I can buy locally from

the guy down the street,

I’d rather do that.”

36 Main chef Adam Steinberg with owner Kathy Combs.

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ing a 2,500-square-foot garden in his own yard both for his own family and his restaurant.

Sternberg also finds himself supplementing his menu with local items not necessarily found through conventional means. 36 Main recently made use of wild turkey eggs found in the back-yard of one of the restaurant’s waiters.

But while area restaurants are using an abundance of locally grown organic produce, the move in the same direction as far as meats are concerned has been going at a slower pace. In this case, it’s largely because of cost.

Suszcynski said the Harvest Café does make an effort, including buying free-range chickens from Brook Farm in New Paltz. But he added that the cost difference is often so great that it would result in entrees too expensive for the market.

While 36 Main just purchased meat from four hogs slaughtered by Bradley Farm in New Paltz, he agrees that, as a whole, it’s been more difficult to consider moving to local organically grown meats than it has been doing the same for produce.

“Local meat right now is a very high-priced item, and with the way the economy is right now it’s almost like they have to give to charity,” he says. “We use organic chicken, but it’s not lo-cal. But as the restaurant grows, I’m branching out when I can.”

And restaurant-goers seem to be respond-ing. Many local eateries using organic produce and meats make sure to get the message out

on their advertising and menus, a move in large part due to the demand from customers.

“Every restaurant I’ve been in lately locally, they always mention they serve locally grown produce,” Kraat says. “It helps with sales and reputation, and they’re user friendly.”

Suszcynski says Harvest Café customers see that the restaurant uses locally grown or-ganic ingredients on its menu, but he still hears queries for more from time to time, including a growing demand for the products of local win-eries and breweries.

“In the last two years, there’s been a huge change in our local sustainable market,” Susz-cynski says. And while the advantages are clear, the haste in which the change has occurred may also come with its own set of concerns.

According to Khosla, the push toward an organic community has come so quickly that it hasn’t given all the participants an opportunity to grow organically together.

“If everybody kills themselves to make this happen, it’s not good as it’s still young,” he says. “Some of the restaurants we’ve dealt with are people who want to get everything local, and we all get frustrated. I like the casual relation-ships rather than us completely depending on each other.”

Khosla added that the relationship might be helped by a coordinated effort to get produce from farms to restaurants, something he said he hopes happens some time in the future.

“I bet I would triple what I sell to local restau-

Bounty of the Harvest Café. Left: Cheese board made with local cheeses, herb-roasted nuts, fresh fruit, and home-made crostini. Right: Fresh made blackberry lemonade with local berries.


rants if someone was making deliveries,” he says. Kraat says Phillies Bridge delivers to most

of the local restaurants they do business with, though he agrees that the process might be helped along by an organized delivery service.

“There’s been quite a bit of talk about that, sort of creating a cooperative,” he says. “Let’s say you’re delivering 40 pounds of carrots to a res-taurant. That might take two-and-a-half hours of field time out of an employee’s day.”

Kraat says he appreciates the relationship between local growers and restaurants, espe-cially with the focus on offering organic op-tions to consumers. But, he adds, there’s a limit to just how much restaurant-goers should ex-pect if they also want to see entrees offered at reasonable prices. Sometimes an organic item might not be available locally, and it’s up to res-taurateurs to decide how far they’re willing to go to keep the practice absolute. “When you start bringing in produce from Chile, that’s a long way to carry a melon,” Kraat says.

RESOURCES

Harvest Cafe10 Main Street, Water Street Market, New Paltz845-255-4205; www.harvestcafenp.com

36 Main36 Main Street, New Paltz845-255-3636; www.36main.com

Huguenot Street Farm205 Huguenot Street, New Paltz845-810-0033; www.flyingbeet.com

Phillies Bridge Farm Project45 Phillies Bridge Road, New Paltz845-256-9108; www.philliesbridge.org

For more information on where to eat, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.

Chef/owner, Mark Suszcynski of Harvest Café, New Paltz.

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Four hundred years ago this September, Henry Hudson ventured up the river that now bears his name, hopeful it

was the legendary passage to Asia that would give his sponsors, the Dutch East India Com-pany, an edge in the lucrative spice trade. Nav-igating the shallows near present-day Albany, he discovered it wasn’t, but his glowing reports of the fertile shores and abundant furs of this new land reverberated throughout the Nether-lands. Within a few decades, Dutch sloops lad-en with furs were making their way down the river, followed by settlers who planted crops on lands along the Esopus Creek, purchased from the Leni Lenape in exchange for kettles, gun powder, blankets, and other goods.

As a major transportation corridor, the Hudson River was to play a key role in the rise of the new nation and the emergence of New York City as a global force, so there’s plenty to celebrate in the statewide 2009 Quadricenten-nial, which runs through October. In June, a flo-tilla of heritage ships, including a replica of Hud-son’s Half Moon, sailed from New York Harbor to Albany, attended by much pomp and circum-stance. And in early October, the world’s longest

pedestrian walkway will open; called Walkway Over the Hudson, the pedestrian bridge is lo-cated on a defunct railway trestle spanning the river at Poughkeepsie and Highland. A gala pa-rade, featuring marching bands and a dramatic illumination, will mark the reopening of this his-toric structure.

There’s no better place to experience the Quadricentennial than the Mid-Hudson Val-ley, given that much of the landscape is little changed, and the streets of municipalities dat-ing back to the 17th century—Kingston, Hurley, and New Paltz—are still lined with colonial stone buildings. At the same time, the area is hardly a backwater. It is home to several prestigious col-leges and a vibrant arts community, which is contributing its own re-interpretations of his-torical events, resulting in artworks alternately original, provocative, and playful. Dozens of art and history exhibitions, tours of historic hous-es, heritage boats and lighthouses, military and living history reenactments, outdoor art shows, concerts of traditional folk music, and dramatic performances are planned for the area, which is also hosting an Artists in Residence program for 10 visiting artists from the Netherlands.

Celebrate History and the Arts in the Mid-Hudson Valley By LyNN WOODS

HUDSON Quadricentennial

QUAD


Businesses are also playing a part in the cel-ebration. More than two dozen restaurants in Ul-ster County are offering $16.09 special Quad din-ners, a very affordable way to sample the region’s culinary specialties, and several lodgings are offer-ing special discounts tied to the Quad. For a list of these businesses, maps, and listings of events, vis-it www.hudsonriver400.org ( for Ulster County), www.exploreny400.com ( for the state), and www.poughkeepsiequad.org ( for Poughkeepsie).

Some Quadricentennial highlights in July and August:

The Hudson River to Niagara Falls: 19th-Century American landscape Paintings from the New york Historical SocietyJuly 11-December 31 In the early 19th century, the Hudson Riv-er and Catskill Mountains inspired America’s first unique style of painting, the Hudson Riv-er School, which depicted nature as a sublime spectacle. The 45 paintings collected in this ex-hibition at Samuel Dorsky Museum of Art at SUNY New Paltz, including works by Albert Bierstadt, Thomas Cole, and Asher B. Durand, are organized as a “Grand Tour,” arranged so that the viewer progresses from New York Har-bor up the Hudson and west along the Erie Ca-nal to Niagara Falls. A selection of contempo-rary works in various media by emerging and established artists, which address the river’s changing ecology and culture, provide an inter-esting contrast. www.newpaltz.edu/museum.

Before Hudson: 8,000 years of Native Esopus CultureThrough October 31 Long before the Dutch arrived, the Leni Lenape had been fishing in the river, hunting in the woodlands, and planting fields of maize in the fertile fields along what is now called the Wallkill River. They, however, were not the first inhabitants: thousands of years ago, paleo-In-dians roamed the region, hunting for big game. The exhibition of Native American artifacts on display at the visitor’s center at Historic Hu-guenot Street in New Paltz, includes projec-tiles dating from 8500-6000 BCE, along with an-cient mortars and pestles, pottery shards, the skeleton of a dog, and colonial-era beads. The original land treaty signed by the Leni Lenape and the British is also on display. The show pro-vides an excellent overview of these mysterious peoples, including a chronology of precontact cultures. www.huguenotstreet.org. Bridge MusicThrough October 31The Mid-Hudson Bridge is more than a con-duit for traffic; besides being a beautifully engi-neered structure with swooping towers that do more than just hold up the roadway, it is a co-lossus of a musical instrument. Using an array of mallets, composer Joseph Bertolozzi struck its girders, suspender cables, spindles, and other parts, recorded the sounds, sampled them into a computer, and used a software musical notation program to compose a musical opus. The result may be the world’s first bridge sonic site installa-

Hudson Highlands Dawn, one of the Hudson River panoramas to be exhibited by Greg Miller at The Gallery Link, Ellenville Public Library and Museum, in July.


tion. The 40-minute piece will be broadcast con-tinuously from Waryas Park on the Poughkeep-sie side and Johnson-Iorio Park on the Highland side; there are also two listening stations on the bridge’s walkway, consisting of 12 buttons in-stalled on the tower bases. The park broadcasts are permanent; the bridge listening stations will be dismantled on October 31 and re-installed next April. www.JosephBertolozzi.com.

“Ahoy! Where lies Henry Hudson?” Woodstock Byrdcliffe GuildOpens June 13 Hudson’s life ended in bizarre tragedy: In a sub-sequent voyage he made off the coast of Labra-dor in 1611, his men mutinied, placing him, his 12-year-old son, and seven loyal crew members adrift in a small boat. After vanishing into the mist, it was never seen again. That mystery is the inspiration for an exhibition of wildly imag-ined Hudson “memorials” by 16 architects dis-played on the grounds of the Woodstock Byrd-cliffe Guild through October 12. In some cases, the pieces are quite elaborate. For example, By-ron Bell and Les Walker are collaborating on a dreamlike reimagining of Hudson’s voyage, complete with storms, sharks, birds, and ser-pents, meandering around the Arts and Crafts homes of the colony’s founder. The display will serve as the jumping-off point for musical per-formances, poetry readings, puppetry shows, and scholarly discourse throughout the sum-mer. www.woodstockguild.org.

Moments in TimeThrough October 31Aaron Burr, George Washington, and John Quin-cy Adams are among the correspondents ex-pressing their gripes, worries, grief, and gratitude in this not-to-be-missed show of historic docu-ments from the archives of the Senate House

State Historic Site, on view at the Victorian Loughran House, at 296 Fair Street in Kingston. From a distance of a century or more, the voices of the past are brought compellingly to life in let-ters, scribbled notes, deeds, diaries, broadsides, maps, newspapers, and other printed matter. A young Dutch woman protests the advances of a married man; diarist Nathaniel Booth expresses horror at the crash of the steamship Henry Clay; a prisoner onboard an American prison ship dur-ing the Revolutionary War entreats an official for water, describing how 200 of his fellows are “emp-tying their guts” overboard; an observer at James Madison’s inauguration complains about the drabness and filth of the president’s carriage; the $50 reward notice for a runaway slave, property of a Marbletown landowner, describes his fluen-cy in Dutch and English and fiddle-playing abil-ity; the front page of a Kingston newspaper lists 200 casualties of the 121st regiment a few days af-ter the battle of Gettysburg. Digital transcripts of the documents are accompanied by easy-to-read text and related artifacts, such as a slave chain and a 1775 powder horn inscribed with a map of the Hudson. 845-338-2786.

A Great American Treasure: Visions of the Hudson RiverJuly 1-29 Panoramas and other photographic views of the Hudson will be accompanied at The Gallery Link, Ellenville Public Library and Museum, by a presentation by photographer Greg Miller at the opening on July 1, at 7 p.m. He’ll share stories and slides related to the waterway that was the in-spiration for his new book, The Hudson River: A Great American Treasure. Published in associa-tion with Scenic Hudson, the volume illustrates the wealth of beauty, the variety of moods, and the lingering wildness of the Hudson, a land-scape that is still little known among the major-

A scene from Arm-of-the-Sea’s “Mutual Stangers: Henry Hudson and the River that Discovered Him” Image Provided


ity of residents of the region. The book and the photographs are a reminder that you don’t have to travel far to discover a magnificent landscape; just get up some morning at dawn and head for the water. eplm.org/gallery.aspx.

Town of Esopus Quad CelebrationJuly 25From 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., you can do the following: take a trolley bus tour of local points of interest, including a slave cemetery, a covered bridge, and Dutch-influenced houses; see a replica of an In-dian long house and art work from a kids’ camp at the new town hall, located in Port Ewen; visit Slabsides, naturalist John Burroughs’ cabin, and then view photos by him at the Port Ewen li-brary; tour the gardens at the Headless Horse-man Hayrides; and see an exhibition of mem-orabilia from the Hudson-Fulton Celebration of 1909 at the Klyne Historical Museum. There’s more at www.esopus.com.

Hudson-Fulton Take TwoThrough October 31Memorabilia from the Hudson-Fulton Celebra-tion of 2009 won’t be hard to come by this year, but Friends of Historic Kingston has taken a dif-ferent tack to its Quadricentennial exhibition: Its cache of 100-year-old stuff served as the inspira-tion for a contemporary art show. The 10 par-

ticipating artists have responded in delightful, unpredictable ways. Photographer Francois De-schamps has compiled his own souvenir booklet and postcards, featuring photographs of the di-lapidated, oddball buildings and signs scattered across the city. Sean Sullivan has set up a mini-exhibit of the Hudson River, complete with shells, beach glass, a bottle of river water, and two dark, expressionistic paintings of the sky. Aliyah Gold crafted a military-style medal featuring a metal car and bridge, while fiber artist Susan Basch sewed her version of the Half Moon out of white wool felt, its hold laden with fragrant spices and Native American projectiles. www.fohk.org.

2009 Esopus Creek Puppet SuiteAugust 14 & 15 (Rain date, August 16)The Tina Chorvas Waterfront Park in Saugerties, Arm-of-the Sea Mask and Puppet Theater is pre-senting its annual pageant outdoors, under the evening sky. “Mutual Strangers: Henry Hudson and the River that Discovered Him” harnesses the transformational energy of mask and pup-pet theater to reimagine, from multiple points of view, Hudson’s voyage up the river that bears his name today. Based on the log of first mate Rob-ert Juet and the oral traditions of the Lenape and Mohican peoples, “Mutual Strangers” is a collage of narratives, stunning visuals, and original live music. 845-246-7873; www.armofthesea.org.

Art and The River: Hudson 400 at the Dorsky Museum

Ecotones and Transition Zones

June 13–September 6, 2009

The Hudson River to Niagara Falls19th Century American Landscape Paintings from the New-York Historical Society

Panorama of the Hudson River: Greg Miller

July 11–December 13, 2009

Samuel Dorsky Museum of ArtState University of New York at New Paltz845-257-3844 / www.newpaltz.edu/museum

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July

July 1–September 6Hudson Valley Shakespeare FestivalThe Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival is way more than “Much Ado about Nothing.” In its 23rd season, the festival is not only presenting the romantic and comedic trials and tribula-tions of Ado’s characters, but also the adven-tures of “Pericles” and a riotous assemblage of 37 Shakespeare works in 97 minutes in “The Com-plete Works of William Shakespeare (Abridged).” The event is held each year at Boscobel House and Gardens, a historic site which boasts Fed-eral architecture, rose gardens, and sweeping views of the Hudson River and highlands. Last year, the location won “Best of the Hudson Val-ley” from Hudson Valley magazine for its out-door venue for plays and concerts. Tickets are $24.65 for adults and $14.50 for children. Hud-son Valley Shakespeare Festival at Boscobel, 1601 Route 9D, Garrison, 10524. 845-265-9575. www.hvshakespeare.org

July 1–August 2Powerhouse Theater at Vassar CollegeThis year marks the 25th anniversary of the collaboration between Vassar College and New York Stage and Film’s Powerhouse Theater, a relationship that has given the region the op-portunity to view plays and musicals as they’re being developed, before they are picked up by larger venues. This year, the college campus will host “Whisper House,” a musical about a haunted lighthouse that comes from Duncan Sheik (“Spring Awakening”), Kyle Jarrow (“The Very Merry Unauthorized Children’s Scientolo-gy Pageant”), and Keith Powell ( from NBC’s “30 Rock”) and comedian Lewis Black’s produc-tion “One Slight Hitch.” The season begins with “Ninety,” Joanna Murray-Smith’s play about a love regained or lost forever in just 90 minutes. Tickets are $35 and the July 1 show will begin at 8 p.m. Vassar College, 124 Raymond Ave., Poughkeepsie, 12604. Powerhouse.vassar.edu.

Event listingsCOMPILED By KELLEy GRANGER

Jason O’Connell, Christopher Edwards, and Noel Velez performing “The Complete Works of William Shakespeare (Abridged)” at the Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival at Boscobel Restoration.

Photo by William Marsh

Duncan Sheik returns to Powerhouse July 10.Image provided

The cast of “Cymbeline” under the tent at the Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival.

Photo by William Marsh


July 4–September 5Belleayre Mountain 2009 Music Festival Celebrate Independence Day with a free show given by the West Point Band’s Jazz Knights at Belleayre Mountain’s slope-side outdoor venue. Watch the stars from the lawn and finish the night with the spectacular fireworks show that follows the concert. The Jazz Knights’ performance initi-ates a summer full of music, with legendary acts like The Original Wailers (August 22) and diverse genres including opera and South American jazz. Arrive at the mountain early to partake in a day’s worth of outdoor activities like hiking, mountain biking, swimming at Belleayre Beach, or hopping on the Belleayre Mountain Sky Ride to take in Catskill views at 3,325 feet above sea level. The In-dependence Day show begins at 8 p.m. Belleayre Mountain, 181 Galli Curci Rd., Highmount, 12441. 800-942-6904 ext. 344. www.belleayremusic.org.

July 4Fireworks Cruise with Hudson River AdventuresOne of the area’s best known sightseeing cruis-es will depart from Newburgh Landing for two hours of festivities this Fourth of July. Guests will board the Pride of the Hudson and watch the evening fireworks display as they sail the river waters and toast the signing of the Declaration with a cocktail from the ship’s fully stocked bars. A sundeck and foredeck area allows open air views, and an air-conditioned salon with wrap-around windows assures comfort without miss-ing any of the action. Hudson River Adven-tures, Inc., 26 Front Street, Newburgh, 12550. 845- 220-2120. www.prideofthehudson.com.

July 4New Paltz Independence Day CelebrationUnison Arts and Learning Center presents an Independence Day concert in the genre of “punk-classical-hillbilly-Floyd”—meet Gandalf Murphy & the Slambovian Circus of Dreams, the evening’s headline performance original-ly from Sleepy Hollow, N.Y. Food, drinks, and a fireworks show will round out the fun. Gates open at 5 p.m., the show begins at 8:30 p.m., ad-mission is free. Sponsored by the Town of New Paltz. Ulster County Fairgrounds, 249 Liber-tyville Rd., New Paltz, 12561. www.unisonarts.org/programs/GandalfMurphy.html

July 4–September 6Maverick Concert SeriesGet a sense of nature and history with the Mav-erick Concert Series, the country’s oldest con-tinuous summer chamber music festival which takes place in a hand-hewn “music chapel” that was erected in the middle of the forest in 1916.

The Shanghai Quartet rehearses at the Maverick Concerts Music Chapel in Woodstock.Photo by Renee Samuels

River sunset viewed from Pride of the Hudson.Image provided


This season the concert hall, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, will fea-ture talents such as the Juilliard String Quartet ( July 12), Mike Seeger (July 25), and more. It all starts with the inaugural July 4 show, when the Tokyo String Quartet will take on Beethoven, Mendelssohn, and Janacek for “Mendelssohn & Friends I.” The show begins at 6 p.m., single ad-mission is $25, children under 12 are free, and guests can bring their own chairs and blan-kets for “pay-what-you-can” seating. Maverick Concerts, 120 Maverick Rd, Woodstock, 12498. 845-679-8348. www.maverickconcerts.org.

July 9–August 23 Bard SummerScape 2009 Each year, the worlds of opera, dance, drama, film, cabaret, and more collide under one theme stemming from Bard College’s Music Festival, creating one of the most celebrated arts events in the area—SummerScape. The subject of this year’s Bard Music Festival is controversial Ger-man composer Richard Wagner, whose rise is explored through panel discussions, perfor-mances, and more. Lucinda Childs’ “Dance” will kick off the SummerScape season at the school’s architecturally stunning, Frank Gehry-designed

Richard B. Fisher Performing Arts Center on July 9 at 8 p.m. Tickets start at $25. Richard B. Fisher Performing Arts Center, 60 Manor Ave., Annandale-on-Hudson, 12504. 845-758-7900. www.fishercenter.bard.edu.

July 11–August 29The spirit of Woodstock is alive and pulsing at the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts. The re-sult of a $100 million building project allows visitors to revel in the music of Tom Jones ( July 27) and Brad Paisley (August 29) in a 15,000-seat outdoor performing arts center at the site of the original 1969 Woodstock festi-val. One highlight of the 2009 season: The Bob Dylan Show, featuring Willie Nelson, John Mel-lencamp, and Bob with his band in their cur-rent blissed-out honky-tonk style, on the Pavil-lion Stage. Head up a few hours early and visit the Bethel Museum, where Woodstock mem-orabilia and interactive exhibits will help give a true sense of place prior to the show. For the July 18 show, tickets start at $35 for lawn seating and on up to $125, museum admis-sion is $13 for adults. Bethel Woods Center for the Arts, 200 Hurd Rd., Bethel. 866-781-2922. www.bethelwoodscenter.org.

The Frank Gehry designed Richard B. Fisher Center for the Performing Arts at Bard College.Photo by Peter Aaron/ESTO

A panoramic photo of the Bethel Woods concert pavillion. Photo by Chris Ramirez


July 11“The Hudson River to Niagra Falls,” Samuel Dorsky MuseumPainters of the Hudson River School—Ash-er B. Durand, Thomas Cole, George Inness, and more—will be the focus of an installation at the Samuel Dorsky Museum of Art at SUNY New Paltz that commemorates the 400th anniversa-ry of Hudson’s voyage. “The Hudson River to Ni-agara Falls: 19th Century American Landscape Paintings from the New-York Historical Society” will feature 45 landscape paintings from the 19th century. The works will be arranged in a proces-sion that begins at the mouth of the Hudson in New York Harbor and follows the river north and west. Visitors can pick out well-known natu-ral and manmade landmarks in the region, as in Thomas Chambers’ depiction of Lake George cir-

ca 1850. The museum is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Friday, and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. Admission is free but do-nations are encouraged. 1 Hawk Dr., New Paltz. 845-257-3844. www.newpaltz.edu/museum.

July 126th Annual New Paltz Regional Garden TourThe Hudson Valley has bountiful botanical wonders, and the New Paltz area is no excep-tion. Take advantage of the once-a-year oppor-tunity to peruse the gorgeous private gardens of the area without worrying about a trespassing violation. The tour will last six hours and high-light some of the area’s brightest public gardens as well. From 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Produced by the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce; find more information at 845-255-0243 or www.newpaltzchamber.org.

New York Harbor by Francis Augustus Silva, oil on canvas, 12 x 20 in., N.Y., 1880. Part of

“Hudson River to Niagara Falls” exhibition at the Samuel Dorksky Museum of Art.

Image provided

Formal gardens at Mohonk Mountain House.Photo by Ernie VanDeMark


July 17 Moonlight Magic on Historic Huguenot StreetSee things the way the French Huguenot settlers did in the evenings of the early 1700s, during the full moon. Get introduced to Historic Hugue-not Street, dubbed “The Oldest Street in Amer-ica,” on a moonlight tour that takes visitors past the seven stone houses, burial ground, and re-constructed 1717 stone church that made up the original village and explains the effect the phases of the moon had on settlers’ lives. Other events are scheduled throughout the summer, including an archaeology camp for children (9 a.m. to 3 p.m., July 6–10 and July 20–24), where kids work alongside the resident archaeologist and experience an overnight adventure in the life of a colonial-era child. Moonlight Magic Tour tickets are $12, the archaeology camp is $220 per camper. Historic Huguenot Street, 18 Broadhead Ave., New Paltz, 12561. 845-255-1660. www.huguenotstreet.org.

July 18–19The Annual Rosendale Street FestivalFor two days, Main Street in the quaint town of Rosendale is transformed into a throbbing mass of music, food, and fun as 25,000 people descend on the Rosendale Street Festival. With five stag-es and dozens of local bands recruited with the help of regional radio stations, the event is a freebie not to be missed. Main Street, Rosend-ale. www.rosendalestreetfestival.com.

July 25The Rhinebeck Antiques Fair In its 33rd year, the Rhinebeck Antiques Fair is one of the premier shows in the country and has been ranked as number one in the Hud-son Valley. Dealers like Stuart Cropper Eclec-tic Eye, Ltd., travel from as far away as England to bring an assortment of antiques, while local businesses like Jenkinstown Antiques brings a variety of the 18th and 19th century country and formal furniture, accessories, and artwork it specializes in. Dutchess County Fairgrounds, Rhinebeck. www.rhinebeckantiquesfair.com.

July 28–August 2Ulster County FairJoin locals for the 122nd Ulster County Fair and find a bevy of rides, fair food, and entertainment. Past years have brought in boot-stompin’ head-liners like country music maven Terri Clark, truck and tractor pulls, horse shows, beauty pageants, and more. Track the events at this year’s fair on-line. Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz. www.ulstercountyfair.com.

Street scene at the Rosendale Street Festival.Image provided

An aerial view of the Ulster County Fair.Image provided


July 31PianoSummer Symphony Gala with the Hudson Valley PhilharmonicSUNY New Paltz’s PianoSummer brings to-gether talented pianists from around the world for an intensive summer session with Vladimir Feltsman, a pianist and conductor lauded by the New York Times, Chicago Tribune, and more for his musical skill. After a summer of hard work, students compete to perform as a soloist in the PianoSummer Symphony Gala as the winner of the Jacob Flier Piano Competition. The Hudson Valley Philharmonic also performs to cap off a summer of recitals and festival concerts. The gala begins at 8 p.m., tickets are $37, or $32 for a se-nior, student, or staff member. SUNY New Paltz. www.newpaltz.edu/piano.

August

August 1–2Bounty of the Hudson Wine FestivalMillbrook Vineyards & Winery will host the an-nual Bounty of the Hudson Wine Festival, which features vintages from all 11 members of the Sha-wangunk Wine Trail. Partners like Baldwin Vineyards will be on hand to offer their delicious dessert wines (like Late Harvest Riesling and Blueberry) among many more varietals. For two days, taste regional wines on Millbrook’s 130-acre estate, listen to live music, and sample savory dishes from local restaurants. Noon to 5 p.m. each day, tickets are $25 in advance or $35 at the door. Millbrook Vineyards & Winery, Millbrook. www.shawangunkwinetrail.com.

August 8–9German Alps FestivalGet a taste of the Bavaria just by traveling to the Catskills. Hunter Mountain’s annual Ger-man Alps festival is a fun intercultural experi-ence for the whole family—beyond the food and beer, kids and parents party with reigning polka king Jimmy Sturr and his Orchestra, folk danc-ers, fireworks, and the Enzian Bavarian Band, which plays waltzes and ballads in traditional style and often in the native dialects of Bavaria. Tickets are $10 for adults and children under 12 are free. Hunter Mountain, Route 23A, Hunter. 800-HUNTERMTN. www.huntermtn.com.

Visitors sample hard pear cider at Millbrook Vineyards, this year’s host of the Bounty of the Hudson Wine Festival. Image provided

Vladimir Feltsman instructs a student during SUNY New Paltz’s PianoSummer.

Image provided


August 8Dancing with the Stars, led by astronomer Bob BermanThe Mohonk Preserve can be as stunning in the dark of night as it is in daylight, and local as-tronomer Bob Berman will show visitors how to best appreciate and understand what they’ll see in the sky. The laser-pointer-wielding space expert will unlock secrets of the August sky and reveal jaw-dropping mysteries of our ever-grow-ing universe. Ages 12 and up, reservations re-quired. $10 for Mohonk Preserve members, $20 for nonmembers. Beginning July 1, call 845-255-0919 for reservations and meeting location. www.mohonkpreserve.com.

August 14–16Jazz in the Hudson ValleyThe Hudson Valley Resort and Spa will host the 10th edition of Jazz in the Valley, fea-turing performances by the Ron Carter Trio, Javon Jackson Band, Les McCann, Eddie Palm-ieri, and Kevin Mahogany. Presale tickets are $45, or $55 at the door. Hudson Valley Spa Resort and Spa, Kerhonkson. 845-384-6350. www.transartinc.org/jazz-in-valley.html.

August 14–16Hudson Valley Ribfest It’s sure to be a finger-licking good time at the 2009 Hudson Valley Ribfest, produced by the Highland Rotary Club for the fifth year at the Ulster County Fairgrounds. Six local and na-tional rib vendors will be squaring off in com-petition and tempting visitors with mouth-wa-tering BBQ ribs, while other stands will offer fried pickles, fresh lemonade, Italian ices, and more. Shop to the sounds of live music and pick up a season’s worth of supplies like rubs, sauce, grills, and grill starters from vendors. August 14, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; August 15, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; August 16, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry is $5 per person, per day, and children under 12 are free, but it does not include food and beverag-es. Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz. www.hudsonvalleyribfest.org.

Curtis Fuller (left) performs at Jazz in the Hudson Valley. Photo by J. Cheatham

The Ziegler family’s “Fun on the Hudson” in the 2008 Artists’ Soapbox Derby in Kingston.Photo by Nancy Donskoj


August 23The 15th Annual Artists’ Soapbox DerbyKingston will once again open its streets to the annual Artists’ Soapbox Derby, a parade down Broadway toward the Rondout Creek that drew a crowd of 8,000 people last year. The turnout is not surprising considering the spectacle—past entries have included homemade soap-boxes fashioned to look like yellow submarines, sharks, brains, and giant orders of boxed lo mein. Starting at 1 p.m. from lower Broadway, Kingston. www.artistsoapboxderby.com.

Sneak Peek:

Sept 13Taste of New PaltzAs we head into fall, mark the calendar for one of the region’s most flavorful events. The New Pal-tz Regional Chamber of Commerce’s 19th Annual Taste of New Paltz allows visitors to sample some of the best local dishes and region-al wines. Aside from the palatable and portable bites you can buy for $2-$3, the festival offers more than food in its expo areas, where visitors can purchase art, crafts, and photographs, en-ter raffles and giveaways from local businesses, watch wellness and exercise demonstrations, and send kids to check out events like an appear-

ance by the Radio Disney Performers. Mean-while, live music on center stage will provide the background for the day. From 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., entry is $5, children under 12 are free. Advance admission is $3, or $20 for the advance admis-sion package that includes one admission, 10 food tickets, and an official Taste of New Paltz T-shirt. Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz. www.newpaltzchamber.org. For a more complete calendar of events, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.

Eager tasters at the Taste of New Paltz.Photo by Lauren Thomas


It may be the ultimate irony, but some-times it’s the indoor accommodations that can make or break an escape to the great outdoors. In the Hudson Valley, a plethora of appealing options are avail-

able for respite after a day of taking in the ar-ea’s exceptional bounty.

“We’re an active destination,” says Petra Trunkes, co-owner of Hungry Ghost Guest House, referring not only to her bed-and-break-fast, but to the region as well.

“It’s the combination of preserve lands, the beauty of the nature, a bustling village, and amazing organic food that brings people here. It’s what convinced us to move.”

In 2005, she and co-owner/husband Mike Trunkes, a nationally and internationally-ranked runner, made a lifestyle change. They left Long Island and found the perfect combination of cu-linary and recreational opportunities in Ulster. In the process they gained new careers: B&B op-erators. They share with their guests the plea-

lODGED IN THE

MOUNTAINSBy THERESA KEEGAN

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The lobby of the Lodge at the Emerson Resort & Spa. Image provided


sure they’ve found in a healthy, active lifestyle. Hungry Ghost’s workout room is set up

with a treadmill and bikes with wind trainers. Vegan meals and special diets that address food allergies are not a problem. Guest activities vary from swim lessons with Petra, a certified Total Immersion swim instructor, or runs with Mike, who is also the cross-country coach at SUNY New Paltz.

“He does guided runs, to go up into the moun-tains,” says Petra “to places [guests] normal-ly wouldn’t go to.” She also offers runs, but at a more moderate pace, usually 9-to-11-minute miles. “Most guests are either establishing or jump-start-ing a healthy lifestyle,” she ex-plains.

The Shawangunk Moun-tains, aka the Gunks, have always beckoned active visi-tors, from the southern point in Ellenville to the North-ern ridge near Lake Mohonk.

“People come here and they talk about [the] mountains and the river,” says Jeri Luke, co-owner of Fox Hill Bed and Breakfast in Highland. “It’s kind of humbling in a way to listen to people from all over the place talk about where we choose to live.” Guests from as far away as Dubai and New Zealand have come to experience climb-ing in the Gunks, while others are city-based residents seeking a quick getaway.

“We have a heated in-ground pool—that’s one of the reasons we’re so popular in the sum-mer, along with the gazebo with a hot tub, and wonderful gardens.”

Corinne D’Andrea also credits her heated 20-by-40 foot in-ground pool as a lure for peo-ple staying at her New Paltz bed-and-breakfast. But with an inspiring view that looks out at the Ridge and Smiley Tower, guests are easily moti-vated to explore the area.

“We have mostly nature people: hikers, bik-ers and climbers,” says the co-owner of Moun-tain Meadows B&B. Not surprisingly, the bus-iest season is summer, when the weather is conducive to climbing and being outdoors.

“We’re not the cute antique-type house,” she explains. “We tend not to get the people who are coming to stay indoors. We get the outdoors people, the young to middle-aged group—and very athletic.

She’s had climbers from Australia and South Africa, repeat guests from New Hamp-shire, who prefer the Shawangunk Conglomer-ate over granite, and others who, like D’Andrea, skydive.

“It’s the ultimate ride,” says the 68-year-old grandmother. “It’s a kick. If you love roller coast-ers, you’ll love jumping.”

The diversity of recreational activity draws people of all ages. The well-groomed carriage trails that wind through the Mohonk Preserve and the Mohonk Mountain House are great for young hikers and bicyclists, while the steep-er, more rugged trails on the ridge challenge even veteran outdoorsmen and women.

But the common desire to relax after the outings seems to be universal.

The pool at Audrey’s Farmhouse has be-come a gathering spot for guests after a day in the outdoors.

“People enjoy a relaxing dip about three or four in the afternoon, and then they’ll have a glass of wine and talk about their adventures,” owner Don Leff says. On Saturday af-ternoons he and his wife, Audrey, prepare a special wine hour for tired guests.

“They bike, they hike, they go everywhere,” he says. “We give them maps and directions and things

like that.” As a cyclist who has logged 35,000 miles on two wheels, he knows the best routes in the area.

Leff credits the outdoor environment, as well as their pet-friendly hospitality for the fact that 85 percent of his clientele are return cus-tomers. He also notes as a draw the unrivaled opportunities for climbing in the Gunks:. “On a scale of 1 to 10, they’re a 10 in terms of moun-tain climbing.”

Strategically placedAlthough no one agency compiles statistics about Ulster County’s tourists, many believe the current economic environment has encouraged locals to embrace the “staycation” philosophy.

“We’re really strategically placed,” says Rick Remsnyder, director of Ulster County Tour-ism. He rattles off the many hiking, biking, and climbing offerings, as well as the Hudson Riv-er and wine tours, as big draws for people both nearby and from far away.

He asks, “Why not take advantage of the wonderful facilities we have right here?” Indeed, more than a dozen lodging facilities in the coun-ty have joined with an “I Love New York” cam-paign that includes a third night of free lodging with two paid nights.

“It’s just a way to get people to come and see the accommodations, and they’re getting people here for an extended stay,” says Rem-snyder.

One of the largest lodging facilities in the Shawangunks, Mohonk Mountain House was also one of the first to mix hospitality with out-door adventures. From its start 140 years ago, the

“People come for hiking,

canoeing, fishing, or just

because they want that spa

getaway.”


Mountain House has been serving visitors’ rec-reational needs in the region. The resort, which at one time included the parcel that is now the Mohonk Preserve, encompasses 2,200 acres, has over 300 climbs, 85 miles of hiking trails, and 265 rooms. The groomed carriage roads, many of which were built by local farmers in winter in the late 1800s, are perfect for hiking and biking.

Mohonk’s recreational opportunities are draws for both overnight and day use guests—most activities are included for guests of the lodge, and day use passes can be bought by those just want-ing access to the grounds. Dining at Mohonk also pro-vides access to the grounds.

“If you’re here for a meal, you can come as early as you like and enjoy whatever else the great outdoors has to offer,” says Katie Martello, senior marketing manager.

The Skytop Memorial Tower is a popular destination hike, as well as a prominent land-mark for all points of the Gunks. On a clear day, visitors to the top of the rock fortress (known as the Smiley Tower to locals) can see six states: New York, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecti-cut, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania.

Today, even though it houses some of the newest lodging amenities, including a world-class spa, some of Mohonk’s most popular at-tractions are also some of the oldest.

“People love to try the log roll on the lake,” says Katie Martello. Swimming in the blue glacial lake, nighttime bonfires, lobster bakes, and carriage rides supplement the recreation provided naturally by the great outdoors. The morning and afternoon kids club has also prov-en popular with guests, she says.

“We let kids be kids. There are pony rides, rock scram-bles. Teens can go out on mountain bike rides,” Mar-tello adds. A daylong Junior Naturalist Program includes learning about tracking and plants, and participants leave with an eco-kit, so they can continue to explore nature.

Golfing is also a draw for Mohonk, with just as many Hudson Valley residents as

guests enjoying the scenic nine-hole course.In Ellenville, the nine-hole Robert Trent

Jones Sr. golf course at Honor’s Haven is a high-light for guests, says Susan Neibe, as are the in-door and outdoor swimming pools. Once part of the Nevele Grand, this full-service resort and spa has been under new ownership for the past two years, and is making valiant strides to re-coup the splendor of its Borscht Belt glory days.

Almost 90 percent of their guests visit in groups—they offer extensive options for confer-ences, weddings, and other large meetings—but there are also several meal and lodging plans for individuals and families. The wellness programs

Guests of the Hungry Ghost Guest House participate in a morning run on the Wallkill Rail Trail. Image provided

“It’s the combination of preserve lands, the beauty of nature, and

amazing organic food that brings

people.”


Vegan with Raw Options

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have been a big draw, says Neibe, for guests as well as community members. Most visitors ex-plore nearby Sam’s Point, or like watching the area hang gliders soar off the currents generated by the Gunks.

Further north, those wanting to explore the Catskills can find a variety of lodging options at the Emerson Resort and Spa. The Inn is an adults-only facility, with 26 suites decorated in an Eastern theme, while the Lodge is family and pet friendly, with a casual Adirondack décor.

“Summer opens up all kinds of activities for guests,” says Tamara Murray, marketing director.

“The Esopus Creek runs right behind us. It’s our backyard. People come for hiking, canoeing, fish-ing or just because they want that spa getaway,” she says. The concierge helps coordinate outings with outside services, including the popular day-long river tubing option in nearby Phoenicia.

Like the Gunks, hiking and biking opportu-nities abound in the Catskills, especially since Belleayre ski center became a year-round desti-nation. Cross-country trails convert into moun-tain bike routes, the lodge is the setting for a diverse summer music series and “Belleayre Beach” is a popular, easily accessible lake.

“The area that we’re in is so amazingly beau-tiful,” says Murray. “Where we are, Mother Na-ture shines.”

Certainly, the variety of lodging opportuni-ties—from elegant suites to casual bed and break-fasts—complement the area’s various recreational opportunities. And at the end of the day, wheth-er watching the outline of Smiley Tower emerge from a moonlit horizon or listening to streams babble their way to the Hudson, the magic of the

area descends upon the dreams of those lucky enough to experience this remarkable region.

The cross-country ski trails at Belleayre offer extensive mountain biking and hiking opportuni-ties in the summer. “It’s one of the best settings for biking,” says Murray. It’s a sentiment that D’Andrea experienced when she moved to the foot of the Gunks, to her Mountain Meadows B&B. “It’s beautiful. I could’ve moved 1,000 miles away and not appreciated anything as much. When you get anywhere close to New Paltz and see the tower, it’s great. It’s a very relaxed feeling.

ACCOMMODATIONSHungry Ghost Guest House35 Cragswood Rd., New Paltz 845-255-1702; www.hungryghostguesthouse.com

Fox Hill Bed & Breakfast55 So. Chodikee Lake Rd., Highland 845-691-8151; www.foxhillbandb.com

Mountain Meadows Bed & Breakfast 542 Albany Post Rd., New Paltz 845-255-6144; www.mountainmeadowsbnb.com

Audrey’s Farmhouse Bed & Breakfast 2188 Bruynswick Rd., Wallkill845-895-3440; www.audreysfarmhouse.com

Mohonk Mountain House100 Mountain Rest Rd., New Paltz 800-772-6646; www.mohonk.com

Honor’s Haven Resort & Spa1195 Arrowhead Rd., Ellenville845-210-3148; www.honorshaven.com

Emerson Resort & Spa5340 Route 28, Mount Tremper 877-688-2828; www.emersonresort.com

For more information on where to stay, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.

Taking the plunge into Lake Mohonk at the Mohonk Mountain House.Photo by Dough Brown


I N S T I T U T E / F E S T I V A L

Vladimir Feltsman, Artistic Director

PIANOSUMMER AT NEW PALTZ

July 11 PianoSummer Faculty Gala“Make it a point to visit the website for PianoSummer and check out a slew of the greatest pianists on the planet.” – alm@nac

Susan Starr Mendelssohn: Two Songs Without Words “May Breezes”, “Spinning Song”Phillip Kawin Brahms: Two Rhapsodies Op. 72Robert Hamilton Copland: VariationsAlexander Korsantia Chopin: Scherzo No. 2Vladimir Feltsman Rachmaninoff: Three PreludesPaul Ostrovsky DeBussy: “La Puerta del Vino”, “L’isle Joyeuse”Haesun Paik Liszt: Nocturne No. 3 “Liebestraum”

July 18 Alexei Lubimov Recital (piano)

Mozart: Sonata in D major, K. 311, Schubert: Four Impromptus Op. 142, Scriabin: Five Preludes Op. 74, Silvestrov: Sonata No. 2, DeBussy: Five Preludes from Book 1

July 25 Anthony Newman Recital (harpsichord)

Described by Wynton Marsalis as “The High Priest of Bach,” and by Time Magazine as “The High Priest of the Harpsichord”

Handel: Suite No. 7 in G minor, Newman: Suite for Harpsichord Solo, Bach: Italian Concerto, Couperin: from 18th Ordre Allemande, Soeur Monique, Le Turbulent, L’Atendrissante, Le Tic-Toc-Choc, Le Gaillard-Boiteux, Bach: Chromatic Fantasia and Fugue in D

July 31 Vladimir Feltsman conducts the

Hudson Valley Philharmonic2009 Jacob Flier Competition Winner, featured soloist

Glinka: overature to “Ruslan & Ludmilla”, Brahms: Symphony No. 2, and a piano concerto (tbd) performed by the winner of the 2009 Flier Competition

Plus Institute recitals, master classes, lectures and the Jacob Flier Piano Competition

McKenna Theatre845.257.3880 box office

Tkts: $27/22 Symphony: $37/32

Concerts begin at 8pm

www.newpaltz.edu/piano

On Exhibit Samuel Dorsky Museum of Art(845) 257-3844www.newpaltz.edu/museumHours: Monday and Tuesday: ClosedWednesday - Sunday, 11:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.Suggested $5 donation. Wheelchair accessible

Two new exhibitionsOpening reception: July 11, 5:00 - 8:00 p.m.The Hudson River to Niagara Falls: 19th-Century Landscape Paintings from the New-York Historical Societyand Panorama of the Hudson River: Greg Miller


Culinary ItineraryBy KELLEy GRANGER

Friday Amuse-BoucheEase any post-travel tension with a visit to the spa at Mohonk Mountain House (1000 Mountain Rest Rd., New Paltz; 845-255-1000; www.mohonk.com), where nature is paramount. An eco-friend-ly facility, it uses a geothermal heating and cooling system—wood, local stone, and cedar shingles in the interior—to connect spa-goers to the outdoors. The treatments also link to the mountain environ-ment—fine quartz grains dubbed Shawangunk Grit are quarried from the resident cliffs and used in scrubs. If you’d like to tantalize your taste buds for the weekend to come, try the Seasonal Bounty Facial (50 minutes, $115), a treatment that’s cus-tomized quarterly depending on what fruits or veggies are being harvested, or the Rosemary Sage Exfoliating Body Glow (45 minutes, $95), a deli-ciously scented herbal polish. A spa appointment will also give you a peek at the Mohonk’s glorious grounds and striking Victorian architecture.

From the onion-laden black dirt of Pine Island to the foie gras of Fern-dale, the Hudson Valley is a fer-

tile playground for creative cooks. It’s not so hard to imagine why one of the world’s most prestigious culinary schools—the Cu-linary Institute of America—would choose that its main campus be in Hyde Park, where it churns out celebrity chefs like An-thony Bourdain and Todd English. Wheth-er you’re a seasoned pro in the kitchen (or just at the table), there is a unique gastro-nomic experience awaiting you here.

CIA Chef David Kamen teaches students in a Food Enthusiast class the importance of using local Hudson Valley produce and dairy foodstuffs to ensure fresh and healthy dishes. The Culinary Institute of America/Keith Ferris

The indoor heated pool at Mohonk Mountain House. Jim Smith Photography


Something’s BrewingHeading down from Mohonk, make a stop at the Gilded Otter Brewing Company (3 Main St., New Paltz; 845-256-1700; www.gildedotter.com) which offers a sample beer platter of the specialty brews made in-house. If you’ve done your travel homework, some of the names might sound fa-miliar. The brewery’s Stone House Irish Stout, a medium-bodied dry stout, seems evocative of the neighboring stone houses on Historic Hu-guenot Street, and the Rail Trail Pale Ale is more than just a tongue twister—it’s a beer with a crisp citrus hop zest and refers to the nearby Wallkill Valley Rail Trail, a 15-mile stretch of former rail-way that’s now frequented by local joggers, horse-back riders, and hikers. If that’s not enough to keep you entertained, the brewery often has lo-cal musicians performing live on Friday evenings.

SaturdayWhat’s Cooking?Head up to Hyde Park early Saturday morning to check out the Culinary Institute of America (1946 Campus Dr., Hyde Park; 800-CULINARY; www.ciachef.edu). Not only is the beautiful 150-acre campus quite a sight to be seen, but visitors can test the work of chefs in training at one of the five student-run restaurants on the school grounds. If you prefer to be the one wearing the apron, take the experience up a notch with the institu-tion’s “Saturdays at the CIA” classes. Throughout the year, CIA chefs and instructors make a num-ber of topics accessible to cooking and baking

enthusiasts, including cake decorating, gluten-free baking, and quick gourmet meals (9:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., from $225). You’ll be engaged by lec-tures, chef demonstrations, and hands-on work to hone your skills, and get a souvenir CIA apron and cookbook to take home.

Grape ExpectationsMuch of the area has been historically linked to wine—the Huguenots brought their wine-making skills from Europe when they settled in the early 1700s. Investigate the region’s grapes for yourself with a stop at Whitecliff Vine-yard & Winery (331 McKinstry Rd., Gardiner; 845-255-4613; www.whitecliffwine.com). White-cliff works with a number of varietals, including Seyval Blanc, cabernet franc, chardonnay, and pinot noir. After doing a tasting (11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Thursday through Monday), settle in with a glass on the deck, where you’ll have full view of the gorgeous ridge that is the winery’s namesake.

The staff of Xavier’s Restaurant enjoys the fruit of the vine at the Whitecliff Winery.Image provided

A waterfall at Minnewaska State Park.Photo by John Rozell


Fall for MinnewaskaIf you’re curious where Whitecliff came up with the name Awosting White for its Seyval Blanc and Vignoles blend, Minnewaska State Park (routes 44 and 55, Gardiner; 845-256-0579; www.lakem-innewaska.org) holds the answer. A brief down-hill trek close to the park’s entrance leads hikers to Awosting Falls, a 60-foot waterfall that plung-es from a rock ledge into a shallow pool. Though the falls are one of the park’s prized possessions, they’re not its only treasure. Others, like Lake Minnewaska, are just as easily accessible by car, and the trail around the water’s circumference is perfect for an easy mid-afternoon jaunt.

A Taste of HistoryNestle in for a cozy dining experience at the his-toric French Huguenot estate that is the Stone Haus Tavern at Locust Tree (215 Huguenot St., New Paltz; 845-255-7888; www.stonehaustavern.com). Chef and owner Barbara Bogart offers a menu inspired by the kitchen wisdom culled from her grandmothers, in combination with her culinary training in Paris and with notable experts like Bobby Flay. The result is Northen Eu-ropean cuisine that uses local, organic products as ingredients—try Oma’s Maultaschen ($11), large meat-filled ravioli with caramelized onions au jus named for Bogart’s maternal grandmoth-er, or the Seasonal Macrobiotic Plate ($16), an assortment of whole grains and vegetables.

Sunday

In Good SpiritsSince Prohibition, no one in New York has legally produced distilled and aged grain spirits—that is, until Tuthilltown Distillery (14 Gristmill Lane, Gardiner; 845-633-8284; www.tuthilltown.com) set up shop in 2001. With the Shawan-gunks as a backdrop and a property that houses a 220-year-old gristmill that’s listed on the Na-tional Register of Historic Places, Tuthilltown manufactures whiskey, vodka, brandy, rum, and more. Starting the weekend of July 4, the distill-ery opens its doors for tours and on-site tastings Thursday to Monday, 12 p.m. to 6p.m. A tour and tasting is $12, and includes a nosing glass and 10 percent off purchases of spirits.

Pick your PleasureBefore heading home, pick up some fresh lo-cal produce to recreate the tastes of the re-gion in your own kitchen. Pluck seasonal ber-ries at Saunderskill Farms (5100 Route 209, Accord; 845-626-2676; www.saunderskill.com), or browse the Wallkill View Farm Mar-ket & Greenhouse (15 Route 299, New Pal-tz; 845-255-8050; www.wallkillviewfarmmar-ket.com), which stocks their homegrown sugar corn, flower bouquets, and more.

Ralph Erenzo in the Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery tasting room and shop, which recently opened to showcase their products, made with locally grown agricultural ingredients. Image provided


Friday A Snapshot of Downtown New PaltzThe best way to get acquainted with New Pal-tz is to begin with a stroll down Main Street, where the personality of the village comes alive in its many shops, boutiques, and coffee hous-es. Water Street Market is a superb stop with a collection of eclectic offerings. Preview the panoramas you can visit over the weekend by browsing the gallery of G. Steve Jordan (10 Main St.; 845-255-6800; www.gstevejordan.com), a photographer who specializes in captur-ing the splendor of the Hudson Valley and the Shawangunks in his images. For a more literal taste of the area, check out the local restaurant scene, which is a melting pot of ethnically in-spired fare—visitors will find gyros and Greek frappes at Yanni Restaurant Café (51 Main St.; 845-256-0988), right next door to Zagat-rated sushi at Neko Sushi (49 Main St.; 845-255-0162; www.thenekosushi.com). Or try updated Med-iterranean at Beso (46 Main St.; 845-255-1426; www.beso-restaurant.com).

A Play DateIt’s a quick dive across the river to Vassar Col-lege’s Poughkeepsie campus, summer home to Powerhouse Theater (124 Raymond Ave.; 845-

Cultural ItineraryBy KELLEy GRANGER

Exterior of the G. Steve Jordan Gallery, located in the Water Street Market, New Paltz. gstevejordan.com

Ansel Adams once said, “No matter how sophisticated you may be, a large granite mountain cannot be

denied—it speaks in silence to the very core of your being.” Though the legendary pho-tographer was probably speaking about his favored terrain at Yosemite National Park, the dramatic ridge of the Shawangunks that frames New Paltz and the surrounding area has a similar effect. Like a magnet, it seems to draw creative types—producers shoot fea-ture films here and famous playwrights gath-er in the summer to work the kinks out of their latest creative concoctions in front of local audiences. The scene is only made rich-er by the throngs of musicians, artists, and performers who make their homes and live-lihoods here, forging a distinctive cultural ex-perience. If you have just a few days to navi-gate the enriching offerings of the region, let this itinerary guide you to some of the sum-mer season’s best bets.


437-7235; www.powerhouse.vassar.edu). Pow-erhouse acts as a summer lab for some of the stage’s most established talents to workshop new plays. This summer, Duncan Sheik, the Tony-award winning composer of “Spring Awak-ening” brings his newest musical on July 10 & 11 (tickets, $25). Also, funny man Lewis Black’s “One Slight Hitch,” a wedding disaster comedy, will be staged July 17–19 (tickets, $20).

SaturdaySay CheeseIn the morning, head out to Rosendale for a bite to eat and a breath of fresh air. From the early 1800s until the start of the 20th century, Rosen-dale was most known for its cement produc-tion, but today this small, picturesque hamlet nestled near Rondout Creek is better known for its quaint eateries and annual festivals. Stop in at The Big Cheese (402 Main St., Rosendale; 845-658-7175) for a variety of foods inspired by cuisines of the Middle East, Greece, and else-where. Between bites, leaf through the store’s compilation of second-hand items, ranging from books to clothing to cookware.

Artistic VoyeurismFrom Rosendale, head north to the town of Saugerties. Every year artists in the area open their doors to give visitors a glimpse of the mys-tery behind the creative process during the Saugerties Artists’ Studio Tour. On August 8 and 9 from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. you can trek to selected studios like Diana Bryan’s, A sculptor and illus-trator whose work was featured in the “Books of

the Century” exhibit at the New York City Pub-lic Library at its 42nd Street branch. If you’re not going to be in town on the dates of the tour, many artists make their studios available by ap-pointment throughout the year (a listing and contact information are on the tour’s website: www.saugertiesarttour.com).

Historic VanderbiltOne of the best views of the Hudson River argu-ably belongs to Vanderbilt Mansion (4097 Alba-ny Post Rd., Hyde Park; 845-229-9115; www.nps.gov/vama). Heading south from Saugerties and crossing the Hudson River, you’ll find the for-mer 600-acre estate of Frederick Vanderbilt (he bought it in 1895; it was designated a National Historic Site in 1940). The grounds house one of the Gilded Age’s best examples of a country escape, complete with remarkable architecture and immaculate gardens and grounds, which provide superior snapshot scenery. Guided tours of the mansion’s interior are given daily (9 a.m.–4 p.m., $8, children under 15 free); access to the grounds is free.

A Magical VenueCap off a day of artistic and historic stimulation with an evening of entertainment at Bard Col-lege’s Spiegeltent (60 Manor Ave., Annandale-on-Hudson; 845-758-7900; www.fishercenter.bard.edu). The venue is an attraction on its own—an intimate mirrored pavilion, it features velvet canopies, stained-glass windows, parquet floors, and more. From July 10 through August 22, the Evening Cabaret brings a variety of acts to the Spiegeltent’s stage, like the “neovaudville” spec-tacle Bindlestiff Family Cirkus (August 1, 8:30

The Italian Gardens at the Vanderbilt Mansion historic site. Image provided


p.m., $25) and magician Ben Robinson (August 8, 8:30 p.m., $25). Beginning at 10 p.m., the tent turns into a dance club as a DJ hits the turnta-bles (admission, $5). From July 9 through August 23, go early to enjoy a casual dinner inside the Spiegeltent or its outdoor garden area (Thursday through Sunday, 5:30 p.m.–8 p.m. Reservations: 845-758-7900).

SundayA Road to RememberNo visit to the New Paltz area is complete without a visit to Historic Huguenot Street, a National Landmark Historic District (18 Broadhead Ave., New Paltz; 845-255-1660; www.huguenotstreet.org). It was in this area that a group of Huguenot refugees chose to settle in the early 1700s, along a river that had been occupied by Native Ameri-

cans for thousands of years. Seven stone houses stand today as part of their original village and are accessible by guided tours given daily ex-cept Wednesdays from the DuBois Fort Visitor Center, 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Tossing in a bit of mod-ern culture with the historic legacy of the street is the New Paltz Art Loop, a downtown walk fea-turing works of local artists and selections from the pictorial collections of Historic Huguenot Street (third Saturday of each month from May to October at 4 p.m.; www.newpaltzarts.org).

Take Stock As part of a strategy to enhance the Sullivan County region and as a tribute to the land where half a million people gathered for the Wood-stock Festival in 1969, the Museum at Beth-el Woods was introduced as part of the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts project (200 Hurd Rd., Bethel; 866-781-2922; www.bethelwood-scenter.org; $13 adult admission). The museum traces the Woodstock phenomenon through interactive exhibits that explore the 1960s and the creation of the festival, as well as offering a multimedia festival experience at the touch of a computer screen. Immerse yourself in the histo-ry and culture of an influential decade and the defining legacy of one of the most famous fes-tivals ever.

The Museum at Bethel Woods. Image provided

Amy G performs at Bard College’s dazzling Spiegeltent performance venue.

Image provided

The 1721 Abraham Hasbrouck House at Historic Huguenot Street in New Paltz, surrounded by gardens maintained by

community volunteers. Photo by Richard Heyl de Ortiz


HOSPITALSBenedictine Hospital105 Mary’s Avenue, Kingston845-338-2500

Ellenville Regional HospitalRt. 209, Ellenville845-647-6400

Kingston Hospital396 Broadway, Kingston845-331-3131

Northern Dutchess Hospital 6511 Springbrook Avenue, Rhinebeck845-876-3011

St. Francis Hospital & Health Centers241 North Road, Poughkeepsie845-483-5000

St. luke’s Cornwall Hospital70 Dubois Street, Newburgh845-561-4400

Vassar Brothers Medical Center45 Reade Place, Poughkeepsie845-454-8500

TRAINSAmtrakStations: Hudson, Rhinecliff, Poughkeepsie800-872-7245

Metro-North RailroadStations: Poughkeepsie, New Hamburg, Bea-con, Breakneck Ridge, Cold Spring, Garrison

800-METRO-INFO

BUSESAdirondack Trailways800-858-8555

Dutchess County Loop Bus System845-485-4690

Pine Hill Trailways800-776-7548

Ulster County Area Transit (UCAT)New Paltz Loop; Ulster-Poughkeepsie Link

845-340-3333

TAxIS

Anthony’s Taxi Shuttling Service

845-255-2870

Joey’s Taxi and Transportation845-255-8294; 845-691-5639

New Paltz Taxi, Inc.845-255-1550

yellow CabAlbany 518-434-2222Poughkeepsie 845-471-1100

AIRPORTSAlbany International Airport (ALB)Albany518-242-2200; 518-242-2299

Stewart International Airport (SWF)Newburgh845-564-2100

RADIO STATIONSClear Channel Radio of the Hudson Valley92.1 Lite FM, soft adult contemporary Star 93.3, hot adult contemporary Cruisin’ 93.5, oldies96.1 Kiss FM, contemporary hit radio98.5 Lite FM, soft adult contemporary107.3 / 99.3 WRWD, country1230 AM WHUC, adult standards1370 AM WELG, adult standards1450 AM WKIP, news talk

Cumulus Broadcasting101.5 WPDH, classic rock Mix 97.7 WCZX, adult contemporary 92.7 / 96.9 WRRV, alternative rock94.3 / 97.3 WKXP / WZAD The Wolf, country1490 AM WKNY adult contemporary1340/ 1390 AM Radio Disney, kid-friendly

WAMC: Northeast Public Radio90.3 FM Albany103.9 FM Beacon96.5 FM Ellenville102.1 FM Highland97.1 FM Hudson90.9 FM Kingston107.7 FM Newburgh

WDST Radio WoodstockWorld Class Rock, contemporary alternative, reggae, acoustic100.1 FM Woodstock106.5 FM Beacon102.3 FM Newburgh106.3 FM Poughkeepsie

WKZE: Musical DiversityAmericana, blues, roots, world music98.1 FM

TOURISM INFORMATIONColumbia County Tourism401 State Street, Hudson800-724-1846

Dutchess County TourismSte. Q-17, 3 Neptune Road, Poughkeepsie800-445-3131

Greene County Tourism700 Rt. 23B, Leeds518-943-3223

Orange County Tourism124 Main Street, Goshen845-615-3860

Ulster County Tourism10 Westbrook Lane, Kingston 800-342-5826

INFO


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sojourn summer 2009

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cool hudson river breeze

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