Kristyn Solie March 15, 2012 Desma 104 – Winter 12 Final Assignment

Sole Culture: Understanding the Sneakerhead Hivemind As homage to Susan Sontag’s Notes on Camp, I have attempted to encapsulate an equally complex and quiet culture, Sneakerhead. To that effect I have curated a collection of sneakers and aim to explain their significance to the subculture while also exploring the formula for the most collectable and coveted sneakers. I. Introduction Sneakerheads identify with a little known subculture rooted in hyper capitalism, consumerism on steroids. Bordering on obsession, these people dedicate the majority of their money and time towards finding and collecting sneakers. The devotion to the product goes beyond being a life-long customer, as the inherent capitalist and consumerist roots were initially created by the consumers themselves rather than the producer. This level of commitment is unparalleled by any other product or culture. Despite their loyalty, their presence is quiet. They are often dismissed as obsessed and careless with their money, so most tend to refrain from talking about their shoes with anyone but a fellow Sneakerhead. Sneakerheads operate as a hivemind, an unspoken collective consciousness that single handedly determines what’s “in” and “out” in the sneaker world. Those not indoctrinated to the culture would be hard pressed to distinguish the highly coveted, $70k kicks from the average $65 pair. Many have tried to find the perfect formula for making a collectable shoe; I believe it can be broken down into four elements. The collectible shoe must have a history, it must be rare, it must be well designed and, above all, it must have “the Sontag factor” – the indescribable allure that separates the hits from the misses. II. History The birth of Sneakerhead culture came in the 1980s in the United States. It began with Run DMC’s homage to the Adidas Superstar (Figure 1) in their song “My Adidas”. While the shoe isn’t nearly as popular now, Run DMC was solely responsible for its popularity in the hip-hop culture in the 1980s. They were so successful that, “the group sent a video to Adidas demanding a million dollars for their endorsement. After showing Adidas execs hordes of fans at Madison Square Garden holding up Adidas sneakers on demand, the deal was sealed” (Complex). The popularity was an accident, it was simply the result of a group of musicians rapping about a product they loved, and with that, a subculture was born. The follow up to the most popular shoe is the Nike Air Force One (Figure 8) which was released in the early 80s, “since hip-hop culture was so closely connected to the streets of New York and the basketball scene there, many of the up and coming artists from the streets of Brooklyn rose to the top while wearing the Nike Air Force Ones” (Nice Kicks). These shoes are not heavily collected by sneakerheads but are still noteworthy because they are extremely successful and have never once been marketed or advertised by Nike. However, it wasn’t until 1985 that sneakers would become an obsession. The Air Jordan 1 (Figure 2), designed by Peter Moore, changed the game and started a legacy. Nike, having trouble breaking into the basketball market, took a risk and banked their

entire campaign on a rising rookie, Michael Jordan. When the shoes were released, they stood out from the crowd with their large swoosh logo and bright colors. Because they didn’t meet NBA dress code, Nike had to pay $5k per game that Jordan wore them. This became the basis of the entire marketing campaign; the Air Jordan’s were so great, they were illegal. Today, “the Air Jordan 1 is a legendary shoe and is the holy grail of most sneaker collectors because of its history and since it was the first Jordan shoe launched.” (Nice Kicks). The boom of signature basketball shoes during this era provided the variety necessary for collecting while the hip hop movement gave the sneakers their street credibility as status symbols. With the legacy in place, new collectable Jordans began rolling out every season, each unique to the year. The Air Jordan 2s (Figure 3) stood out because they were made in Italy and were the first Nike to not have a swoosh on it. However, it wasn’t until the Air Jordan 3s (Figure 4) that sneaker culture was truly blown away. The Air Jordan 3 changed everything. They were designed by legendary Jordan designer Tinker Hatfield and blended fashion with function. These shoes broke ground for many different aspects of the Air Jordan shoe line. They featured the “Jumpman”, a silhouette of Jordan created to celebrate his Slam Dunk Contest victory. Even more importantly, “the Air Jordan 3 featured elephant print on the upper. Though this material was only used again on one other model, it set a standard that the Jordan shoes are as much fashionable as functional” (Nice Kicks). Most sneakerheads would argue that this is the greatest shoe of all time. In 1989, the Air Jordan 4 again took the world by storm. These introduced many new design concepts, “the straps on the side for increased ankle support… [it] featured the air sole heel for added cushioning and a full length midsole. In the White/Black-Cement, the shoe featured a unique texturing nicknamed “Cookies & Cream” for its striking resemblance” (Nice Kicks). These shoes were so popular that they were featured in Spike Lee’s Do The Right Thing worn by the character Buggin Out (Figure 5) and were the center of the entire plot’s controversy. The Air Jordan 5 (Figure 6) was inspired by the WW2 Mustang Fighter and had shark teeth shapes on the midsole of the shoe. Finally, the last of the noteworthy Jordans is the Jordan Spizike (Figure 7). Initially nicknamed the retro Frankenstein, What makes the Air Jordan Spizikes so special is the fact they are made up of a total of six different Air Jordan’s, the Jordan III (midsole), Jordan IV (Wings), Jordan V (Uppers), Jordan VI (Tongue), Jordan IX (Pull Tab). All Air Jordans were an instant hit thanks to a high flying rookie as well as one of the best marketing campaigns put together by Weiden and Kennedy. Air Jordan shoes have been the top selling signature basketball shoe that Nike has ever produced. Sneakerheads thrive on shoes with a story. The best sellers are always worn in championships, sported by the best celebrities, or the byproduct of a long journey from the drawing table to the markets. III. Rarity Sneakerhead culture is competitive consumerism. When it comes to rarity, the sneaker culture divides itself between sneakerheads and hybebeasts. Sneakerheads tend to frown upon hypebeasts because they are a person “who is a beast (obsessed) about the hype (in fashion), and will do whatever it takes to obtain that desired hype” (Urbandictionary). The controversy lies in the intention of the buyer, where sneakerheads go after a shoe because they love the rarity and the history, hypebeasts go after a rare shoe because they want to have something no one else has. Limited release makes a

historical shoe even more appealing. The Air Jordan 11 Concord (Figure 9) is widely regarded as one of, if not the most, popular sneakers of all-time. The design features a white upper met by a black patent leather mudguard and translucent sole. Concord herringbone pads are visible on the outsole giving way to the nickname. Rereleased in 2011, the Concords caused riots and violence which “can be somewhat expected when distribution is limited to a 200-pair production run circa 2005. But then again, it is hard to argue against the 11’s platform and widespread regard as one of the most favorited and recognizable sneakers to the Jordan brand” (Hypebeast). Another infamously rare sneaker, the Nike Dunk SB Pigeon (Figure 10) was released exclusive to New York City. A riot broke out at one location on the release date of this shoe. When the police cleared the area and the smoke settled there were litters of knives and baseball bats left on the ground. The people who actually got to purchase a pair were immediately escorted to a taxi to go straight home for safety reasons. Another equally rare release, the Nike Foamposite Galaxies (Figure 11), released to commemorate All Star Weekend 2012 and recently sold for $70,000 on eBay. They were extremely limited and many malls that were supposed to release the shoe cancelled due to huge crowds and violence. Many camped in the snow for up to a week for these shoes. Because there is such a drive to be the most unique, to have the most limited shoe and stand out, rarity is a huge factor in shoe collecting. However, it should also be noted that rarity and one-of-a-kind are not the same thing. Nike offers an online studio called NikeID which allows you to customize any shoe with any color way you’d like (Figure 13). While the ability to design shoes gives sneakerheads a chance to be hands-on in the process, these shoes are not collectable because they aren’t actually rare, just unique. III. Design A sneaker is a piece of art. Sneakerheads want unique, interesting designs that set them apart from everyone else. The best designs draw inspiration from pop culture. In the last year, the most noteworthy collectable shoe was the Nike Air Mag (Figure 12) which released 1,500 pairs on eBay with all proceeds going towards the Michael J Fox Foundation. The shoes were homage to the Nike Mags Marty McFly wore in Back to the Future, and were insanely popular. In the words of the designer, Tinker Hatfield, the Nike Mag was so well designed that “it had totally transcended being a prop in a movie” (Nice Kicks). Sneakerheads also love design that uses innovative technology, like the Air Jordan 2012s (Figure 14) and the Nike Foamposite (Figure 15). The Foamposite uses “a polyurethane-based molded upper void of seams and any other indication of human manufacture, the Foamposite is extremely durable, lightweight and has a propensity to mold to the shape of your foot over time” (Complex). While the Air Jordan 2012s “includes both swappable modular insoles and removable support booties. With a comfort level and style for every player, the Jordan 2012 is basically the Egg McMuffin of basketball sneakers.” (Complex). Nike has even called in outside designers, like Kanye West (Figure 16), to design limited shoes and has seen extremely successful sales. IV. The Sontag Factor However, all the good design, history and limited release in the world would mean nothing without the Sontag factor. The sneakerhead hivemind operates on “something like a logic of taste: the consistent sensibility which underlies and gives rise to a certain taste. A sensibility is almost, but not quite, ineffable.” (Sontag). A sneaker can have all the technical criteria, but still be completely rejected by the culture because it

just doesn’t “feel” right. The Sontag factor rooted itself in the independent devotion to the Adidas Superstar; it manifested itself in the inherent rebelliousness of the Air Jordan 1; it caused the riots behind the Concords and the Pigeons; and it exploded with the futuristic innovations of the Foamposites and the Nike Air Mags. In the context of sneaker culture, “taste governs every free -- as opposed to rote -- human response. Nothing is more decisive” (Sontag). A sneakerhead truly absorbed in the culture can easily differentiate between that which is coveted and collected and that which is discarded and mocked.

Despite the influence Adidas had on its creation, Nike has the Sontag factor down pat, and has dominated sneaker culture since 1986. Simply put, Adidas has lost the factor. There are several efforts to get back in the game, all seeming to be technically correct but ultimately falling short in the shadow of Nike. Figures 17, 18 and 19 exemplify one of Adidas’ most current attempts to get back into the culture. Adidas Originals, a “casual sports apparel” brand with a distinctly retro feel regularly teams up with over the top designer Jeremy Scott to produce a unique line of sneakers that are fairly limited. The shoes are outrageous and eye catching, the releases are limited and seasonal, and there’s a heavy “retro” history behind the shoe, but ultimately something does not feel “right” to the Sneakerhead culture. There’s no soul. These shoes are often heavily mocked on online forums, and even the average viewer would look at these and feel uneasy. Adidas also attempted to market a shoe with star power, similar to the way Nike and Jordan worked together. Adidas launched the Adidas Kobe 2 (Figure 20) that featured innovative design (the shoe was all one piece and contoured to your foot) and was promoted by a major star (Kobe Bryant) and modeled after the Audi TT. Despite having all the factors of a collectable shoe, it was so badly rejected that it was given the name Kobo Cop because it looked like a bad sci-fi prop. It should be noted that Kobe now has an extremely successful, highly collectable line of shoes with Nike and they look nothing like these. Even big name brands like Air Jordan has its failures. In 2007, Air Jordan released a shoe called the Air Jordan Fusion (Figure 21) that was supposed to encompass the best of both worlds (Air Force 1 and Air Jordan). It went straight to the outlet malls and clearance racks, not a single collector would touch it. The Sontag factor is so powerful that it demands complete control of the markets, operating as a collective consciousness of taste in the Sneakerhead culture. V. Hyper Capitalism

In the late 1980s as part of a marketing campaign, Spike Lee created a character named Mars Blackmon who became an iconic fictional figure of Sneakerhead culture (Figure 22, 25). He is the trekkie of shoe culture, geekishly obsessed beyond comparison. He represents the true, loyal sneakerheads. Uncomplicated by violence or hype (Figure 22, 23) he collected shoes because it defined him as a person and manifested as a true passion. He is the unsung hero of kicks culture, a basketball junkie with street roots and inherent style. The product is the lifestyle. Advertising becomes frivolous because sales are guaranteed. The hyper capitalism is unparalleled. The consumers are informed and eager, refusing to fall into the categories of want or need, but rather asking, “how many?” and “when?”. Mars Blackmon pesters Jordan to know what his secret to success is; he asks, “Is it the shoes? It’s the shoes right? It’s gotta be the shoes!” – it begins to sound like the mantra of the sole collector. Everything for the shoes.

Figure 1 - The Adidas Superstar, Original Colorway, 1985.The shoe that started it all. Made popular by Run DMC in the 1980s. Manufactured since 1969.

Figure 2 - Air Jordan 1, Black/Red, 1985.The first of the Air Jordan legacy, banned by the NBA. General release.Original price: $65.Ebay: $525, mint condition.

Figure 3 - Air Jordan 2, White/Black, 1987.Made in Italy. Original Price: $95

Figure 4 - Air Jordan 3, Black/Cement Grey, 1988The greatest shoe of all time.

Figure 5 - Air Jordan 4, White/Black, 1989Buggin’ Out’s White Cements,

Figure 6 - Air Jordan 5, White/Black-Fire Red, 1990Shark teeth shoes, inspired by WW2 Planes.

Figure 8 - Air Force Ones, White, 1982.The gangster’s shoe, incredibly popular in hip-hop culture.

Figure 7 - Air Jordan Spiz’ike, Bourdeaux, 2012The retro Frankenstien of shoes. Designed for Spike Lee. Obama owns a pair of these shoes.

Figure 10 - Nike Dunk SB Low, Pro PigeonThe original riot shoe. Limited to 400 pairs.

Figure 9 - Air Jordan 11, Concords, Rereleased winter 2011.The most popular shoe of all time.

Figure 12 - NikeAir Mag, 2011.Marty McFly’s shoe. Limit 1500 pairs. Charity auction.

Figure 11 - Nike Foamposite, Galaxy, 2012Part of the all-star pack released in February 2012. Sold for $70k online.

Figure 14 - Air Jordan 2012, Year of the Dragon, 2012Interchangable parts, sneaker innovation.

Figure 13 - NikeID Spring 12 Color OptionsCustomize your Nikes.

Figure 18 - Adidas X Jeremy Scott, “Rainbow”, 2010.Another Jeremy Scott collaboration, in rainbow.

Figure 17 - Jeremy Scott x Adidas Originals by Originals 2011 Spring/Summer “Teddy Bears”A shoe with a real teddybear attached to it. Not respected.

Figure 15 - Nike Foamposite, Metallic RedHightech sneaker design.

Figure 16 - Nike Air Yeezy, Zen Grey, 2009.Designed by Kanye West. Worth around $2,000.

Figure 21 - Air Jordan Fusion SeriesDespite all the good that Jordan has created, these shoes are not respected or collected.

Figure 20- Adidas Kobe 2Nicknamed the “Kobo Cops”, Kobe never wore Adidas again.

Figure 19 - Adidas X Jeremy Scott, “Bones”, 2010.Jeremy Scott and Adidas team up again.

Figure 22 - Mars Blackmon with his Air Jordan CollectionA sneaker icon. Is it the shoes? It’s gotta be the shoes!

Figure 23 - Sneaker RiotFrom the Pigeon release in New York.

Figure 24 - Sneaker Riot part 2Los Angeles, sneaker store being robbed during an LA Riot.

Figure 25 - Mars Blackmon and Michael JordanThe Dream Team.

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