sop (textile finishing)

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE. [Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 1 Only Textile Finishing. Presented … Mohammad Mizanur Rahman. Sr.Manager (Finishing-Textile) Diploma in Textile Engineer (Itet), B Sc in Textile Engineer (Adust).BSS(P.Science), MBA (Marketing). Cell: +8801712 254264, +8801911 309216, Email: [email protected] Skype: mizan_mehben Chaity Group - Fabric Division.

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Page 1: Sop (textile finishing)

September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 1

Only Textile Finishing. Presented …

Mohammad Mizanur Rahman. Sr.Manager (Finishing-Textile)

Diploma in Textile Engineer (Itet), B Sc in Textile Engineer (Adust).BSS(P.Science), MBA (Marketing).

Cell: +8801712 254264, +8801911 309216, Email: [email protected]

Skype: mizan_mehben

CChhaaiittyy GGrroouupp -- FFaabbrriicc DDiivviissiioonn..

 

Page 2: Sop (textile finishing)

September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 2

Stenter Machine (LK & LH). Brand Name : LK & LH. Model No : ST82300NG. Origin : Taiwan. Chamber : 8

SOP…. Adjustment.

1. Temperature- 2. Width set. 3. Blower Speed. / Charculation. 4. Chemical Recipe. 5. Padder Pressure. 6. M/c Speed. 7. Over feed. 8. Under feed. 9. Angle.

Precaution. 1. Over Heated. 2. Width variation. 3. Lycra Fabrics within roll GSM variation. 4. Chemical spot. (If use) 5. Over compaction Mark.

Check after Process.

1. Width. 2. GSM. 3. Shade. 4. Bowing. 5. Softener Spot. 6. Any fault.(Color spot, Uneven, Crease mark) 7. Angle.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

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Stenter Machine (Bruckner). Brand Name : Bruckner. Model No : VN-sfp-26/8-999 Origin : Germany. Chamber : 8 Burner : 16 SOP. Adjustment.

1. Temperature. 2. Width set. 3. Overfeed. 4. Under feed. 5. Padder Pressure. 6. Pining Set. 7. Blower Speed. 8. Angle. 9. Mahlo Adjust. 10. Chemical Recipe. 11. M/c Speed.

Check after Process.

1. Width. 2. GSM. 3. Shade. 4. Bowing. 5. Softener spot. 6. Any fault (Color spot, Crease Mark, Uneven) 7. Angle.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 4

Compactor Machine (Ferraro- Steam).

Brand Name : Ferraro. Model No : Comtex RC 2800(Steam Heated). Origin : Italy. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Temperature. 2. Width set. 3. Blanket Pressure. 4. Overfeed. 5. Underfeed. 6. Tension. 7. Pining set. 8. Angle.

Precaution. 1. Shade variation 2. Over Compaction. 3. Many Bowing. 4. Shinning Mark.

Check after Process.

1. Width. 2. GSM. 3. Compaction. 4. Bowing. 5. Crease Mark. 6. Angle.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 5

Compactor Machine (Ferraro- Oil Heating).

Brand Name : Ferraro. Model No : Comtex RC 2800 (Electric Heated) Origin : Italy. SOP…. Adjustment.

1. Temperature. 2. Width set. 3. Blanket Pressure. 4. Overfeed. 5. Under feed. 6. Tension. 7. Pining set. 8. Angle.

Check after Process.

1. Width. 2. GSM. 3. Angle. 4. Crease Mark. 5. Compaction. 6. Bowing.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 6

Tube Compacting Machine. (Ferraro) Font Side. Back Side. Brand Name: Ferraro. Model No : Comtex Easy FV 1500 (Steam Heated) Origin : Italy. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Temperature. 2. Dia set. 3. Overfeed. 4. Blanket Pressure. 5. Tension. 6. Out Steam.

Check after Process. 1. Dia. 2. GSM. 3. Compaction. 4. Dia Mark. 5. Bowing. 6. Crease Mark.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 7

Dryer Machine (Strahm-Gas) Brand Name : Strahm-Gas. Model No : Hiper shrink progress Origin : Switzerland SOP. Adjustment.

1. Temperature- 120 Deg. 2. Overfeed – Maximum 3. Padder Pressure- 2. 4. Blower speed. 5. Cherculation. 6. Width set. 7. M/c Speed.

Check after Process.

1. Width. 2. Compaction. 3. Shade. 4. Any fault. 5. GSM. 6. Bowing.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 8

Slitting Machine (Bianco). Brand Name : Bianco. Model No : Linea Tagloerina Origin : Italy. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Drop Needle must be followed. 2. If No Drop, Must be Untwist. 3. Padder Pressure(If Need) 4. M/c Speed. 5. Tension.

Check after Process.

1. Any Spot (Color spot, Uneven). 2. Cutting. (Needle Mark) 3. Crease Mark. 4. Shining Mark.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 9

De-Water Machine (Corino). Brand Name: Corino. Model No : S T4-A. Origin : Italy. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Dia set. 2. Chemical Recipe. 3. Full Ballooning. 4. Padder Pressure. 5. Over Feed. 6. M/c Speed.

Check after Process.

1. Dia. 2. Softer spot. 3. Compaction. 4. Any spot (Color, Uneven). 5. Twisting.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 10

Hydro- Extractor. Brand Name: Han Seong. Model No : Origin : Korea. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Timing. 2. Pressure. 3. Speed (If Control).

Check after Process.

1. Water %. 2. Crease Mark.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 11

Brushing/Raising Machine (Gear type) Brand Name : Yantu (Gear Type). Model No : RA 2032. Origin : Taiwan. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Pile. 2. Counter Pile. 3. Brush (Drum) speed. 4. Fabrics Tension. 5. M/c Speed.

Check after Process.

1. Brush Surface. 2. Line Mark. 3. Uneven Brush.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 12

Sueding/Ultrasoft Machine (Lafer). Brand Name : Lafer. Model No : Ultrasoft-L Origin : Italy. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Taken in Roller Tension. 2. Drum Tension. 3. Fabrics Return Roller Tension. 4. Plaiter Roller Tension. 5. Drum Speed. 6. M/c Speed.

Check after Process.

1. Surface of Peach. 2. Line Mark. 3. Uneven Peach. 4. Sinker Mark. 5. Hole.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 13

Combing Machine. Brand Name : I Kuang Model No : BR9. Origin : Taiwan. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Pile. 2. Counter Pile. 3. Drum speed. 4. M/c speed. 5. Fabrics Tension.

Check after Process.

1. Effect of Combing. 2. Uneven combing.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 14

Shearing Machine (Lafer). Brand Name : Lafer. Model No : CMI-100. Origin : Italy. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Taker in Tension. 2. Lower Tension. 3. Blade Distance. 4. Table Distance. 5. Cutter RPM. 6. Plater Tension. 7. M/c Speed.

Check after Process.

1. Cutting. 2. Uneven Cutting. 3. Side to Side Variation. 4. Line Mark.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

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Tumble Dryer. Brand Name : Dryer-160. Model No : PC-7. Origin : Taiwan. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Temperature. 2. Steam. 3. Timing. 4. Cooling.

Check of Process. 1. GSM. 2. Width. 3. Shrinkage. 4. Shade. 5. Crease Mark.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 16

Tubetex Open Width Compactor. Brand Name : Tubetex M/c. Model No : C2500. Origin : USA. SOP. Adjustment.

1. Temperature. 2. Left Roll Pressure. 3. Right Roll Pressure. 4. Shoe Pressure. 5. Plaiter Ratio. 6. Conveyer Ratio. 7. Retard Roll Ratio. 8. Take out Roll Ratio. 9. Width control Ratio. 10. Guiding Roll Ratio. 11. M/c Speed.

Check after Process.

1. Compaction. 2. GSM. 3. Width. 4. Over Compaction.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

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SIDE VIEW OF A TYPICAL C2500 CONFIGURATION.

1. Brief Description of the Machine. The C-2500 Open Width Compactor is designed to mechanically pre-shrink knitted fabrics. It provides shrinkage control to eliminate excessive length shrinkage that may have been created in other processes. Compacting is the mechanical compression of knitted fabrics in the length direction to compensate for inherent (natural) shrinkage caused by tension in the yarn. This tension is created during the manufacture and processing of the fabric like the Knitting, Dyeing, Printing and Brushing and or Sueding. The fabric are feed thru the overhead entry equip with centering and metal detector unit. The fabric lightly steamed before entering the C2500 compaction station to relax and add moisture to the fabric to aid in the compaction process. The station consists of a feed roll, a retard roll and a shoe section. The feed roll and shoe are heated to aid the process of compaction. When the station is closed the point of contact between these three component parts is known as the compacting zone. The speed of the retard roll is variable in relation to the feed roll with the amount of compaction imparted to the fabric being controlled by the differential between these two rollers. Speeds and temperatures are fully adjustable to allow the desired shrinkage results in the finished fabric.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

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The Principle of Compaction.

Before After. The station consists of a feed roll, a retard roll and a shoe section. The feed roll and shoe are heated to aid the process of compaction. When the station is closed the point of contact between these three component parts is known as the compacting zone. The speed of the retard roll is variable in relation to the feed roll with the amount of compaction imparted to the fabric being controlled by the differential between these two rollers. Speeds and temperatures are fully adjustable to allow the desired shrinkage results in the finished fabric. The stitch counts of the fabric before compaction (left diagram above) are measured by counting the number of stitches per inch. The fabric is driven into the compaction zone by the feed roll. The fabric is transported to the point of the compaction zone where the shoe tip, feed roll and retard roll come into contact, the resistance to the fabric motion that is applied by the slower running speed of the retard roll allows the feed roll to push the stitches closer together creating more stitches per inch (right diagram above). The difference between the number of stitches entering the compactor by comparison to the number of stitches exiting the compactor. This difference expressed as a percentage is the amount of compaction that has been applied to the fabric.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

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Process Flow Chart.

Dyeing

De-Water. Slitting.

Stenter. Dryer.

Sueding. Brushing.

Tube Compact.

Shearing.

Stenter.

Open Compact.

Inspection.

Finish Fabric Store.

Combing.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

[Chaity Group] (Md. Mizanur Rahman) Page 20

Sueding Machine of Tublar (Lafer)

Brush sueding for knit fabrics in tubular form, Sueding before dyeing (in tubular) or after (in open width) Brand Name : Lafer. Model No : Origin : Italy.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

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Raising Machine (Lafer)

Brand Name : Lafer. Model No : Origin : Italy. SOP, Adjustment:-

1. Pile. 2. Counter Pile. 3. Brush (Drum) Speed. 4. Fabrics Tension. 5. M/c Speed.

Check after Process:-

1. Surface of Brush. 2. GSM. 3. Line Mark. 4. Sinker Mark. 5. Width.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

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Open Width Compact M/c (Lafer)

Brand Name : Lafer. Model No : Origin : Italy.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

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Gas Singeing Machine (Osthoff)

Machine name : Singeing machine. Manufacture : OSTHOFF-seng GmbH and company. Origin : Germany. Heating source : Direct gas heating system. Temperature : 120-130C. Speed : For single jersey cotton: 50-60m/min (burner position -02) For 100% viscose: 65-75 m/min (burner position -02) For Lycra single jersey: 90/95 m/min (burner position -01) Flame : (10-12) bar for single jersey. (18-20) bar for single jersey. (16-18) bar for viscose Lycra

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Lycra Fabrics:

What kind of Problem: 1. GSM Variation with in roll. Also 1 meter. 2. With in roll 1st & last GSM variation. 3. GSM low after dyeing. 4. Roll to roll gsm variation. 5. GSM up down after Finish. 6. Shrinkage Problem. 7. Width Variation with in roll. 8. Width Variation Roll to roll. 9. Shade Variation with in roll. 10. Shade variation roll to roll.

Solutions : 1. Fabric Tension Uneven/ Not proper. 2. Burner Temperation Up down. Not stable burner temp. 3. Use in more over feed or more enzyme / Re-dyeing. 4. Knitting m/c to m/c may be gsm up down. M/c run that time if

over feed adjust. 5. If not proper heat set / not shrinkage control. 6. If not proper heat set/ Burner temp not stable. 7. Problem in heat set/ when heat set that time if width adjusts in

m/c run. 8. Knitting m/c to m/c variation. 9. If not proper heat set / winch speed not proper. 10. If yarn count mixed.

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September 20, 2012 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE.

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1. Teflon Finish (Water Replant).

Lurotex Tx2504 = 60. g/l.

Perapret Booster XLR = 10. g/l.

Acetic Acid = 0.5 g/l.

pH (Check) - 4.5

Process - Dry Finish.

Temperature- 110, 120, 130, 170, 170, 170, 170.

Blower Speed-1800.

Speed- 18 m/m.

Note: Don’t use any kinds of Softner before Teflon Finish.

2. Resin Finish. Stabitex ETR = 40 g/l

Condensol FAM = 12 g/l. Acetic Acide = 0.25 g/l.

pH Check - 4.5

Process Dry Finish.

Temperature- 150 Speed -15 Overfeed- 30%

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3. UV Protective Finish. Diyopol KUV = 40 g/l. Perapret FPEB = 20 g/l. Temperature- 140. Speed – 20. Overfeed – 50%,

Note: Don’t use any kinds of Softner before UV Protective Finish. & Dry Finish.

4. Wick Finish. Cefasoft SHB – 40 g/l.

Temperature- 150. Speed – 18. Overfeed- 50%.

Note: Don’t use any kind of Softner.

5. Polyester Finish.

Hydroperm SRHA. TH – 20 g/l. Acetic Acid – 0.25 g/l. pH Check – 4.5 Temperature – 180 (Dark Colour) Speed – 20. Overfeed – 30% Note: Wet Finish. Not dry Finish.

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6. Polyester Finish.

Cefasoft SHD – 30 g/l. Sanitized T25-25-10 g/l. Acetic Acid - 0.5 g/l.

pH Check – 4.5

Temperature- 180. (Dark Colour) Speed – 20. Overfeed- 20 %

Note: Wet Finish. Not dry Finish.

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1. Single Jersey, 2. Double Jersey. 3. Rib, 4. Interlock, 5. Pointal Rib. 6. Micro Pollar Fleece. 7. Plating Fabrics, 8. Denim Look, 9. Interlock Lycra. 10. Plate Back Rib. 11. Plaited Interlock, 12. Cross Tuck, 13. Mesh Stripe, 14. Variative Rib, 15. Fleece, 16. Lacost, 17. Double Lacost, 18. Terry Fleece, 19. Mess Fabrics, 20. Opel Fabrics, 21. Diamond,

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Stenter Machine: A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform width.

Functions of Stenter Machines:

1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric. 2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter. 3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter. 4. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled. 5. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter. 6. Spirility controlled by the stenter. 7. GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter. 8. Fabric is dried by the stentering process. 9. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled. 10. Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.

Components of Stenter Machine: • Paders • Weft straightner (Mahlo). • Burners 10 • Heat recovery • Attraction rollers • Circulating fans 10,8 • Exhaust fans 2 • Winder 2 • Clips • Pins • I.R • Cooling drums 2

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Working Procedure of Stenter Machine: The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed through the padders where the finishes are applied and some times shade variation is corrected.The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretchning of the pins are greater than the clips.these clips and pins are joined to endless chain.there are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air.the circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers ar provided to stretch the warp yarn. After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch.The speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.temperature is adjusted that according to the fabric as for,

1. PC 210 c 2. Cotton 110-130 c

After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c.

Specification of a Stenter Machine: Brand Name Bruckner Serial no 72276-0463 Origin Germany Year of manufacture 1995 Speed range 15-80 m/min Temperature range 50-250C Used utilities Electricity, Gas, Compress air, Steam Production capacities 15 ton /day (24 hours) No. of chamber 8 Maximum fabris width 105” Minimum fabric witdth 30” Steam pressure 2 bar Air pressure 10 bar Applied for Open tube fabric No. of ratamatic burner 16 Extra Attachment Mahlo weft straightener M/C parts Burner,Nozzle, Exhaust air fan, Over feed

roller, Suction fan, Chain arrangement

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Technical Data of Stenter Machine:

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Textile Compactor Machine: Compactor is a textile finishing machine which is designed specially for compacting 100% cotton knitted fabric like jersey, pique, interlock, plush, rib and sinker etc. as well as cotton blended fabric in rope form, changing the loft and dimensional stability of the fabric and presenting it to plaited form. Fitted with two felt compacting units which makes it to obtain top quality fabric, with minimized shrinking nature and a soft fluffy hand.

Function of Compactor Machine: Compactor is important machine in knit fabric finishing process. There are a lot of technical work which are done by compactor machine. The works are done by compactor machine are pointed out below: 1. GSM control of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is increased and fabric width is decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric width is increased. 2. Control shrinkage. 3. Twisting control. 4. Increase smoothness of fabric 5. Heat setting is done of fabric etc. Checking Parameters of Compactor Machine: Following parameters check in compactor machine.

1. Shade Check: Shade of the compacting fabric is checked in the delivery side of the machine. The operator collects the fabric and compare the shade of the fabric with the buyer’s approved swatch.

2. Width Check: Operator measures the width of the fabric with the measuring tape and compares it with the buyer’s requirement.

3. Weight Check: Weight of the fabric is determined by GSM check. Operator checks the GSM of the fabric by GSM cutter and electric balance.

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4. Edge Line Checking: Two edges of the fabric is check in delivery side. If any fix line is identified, which normally occurs from the expander it should be connected.

5. Design and Slanting: Operator checks design and slanting of the fabric in the delivery side of the machine.

6. Fabric Faults: Various types of fabric quality are measured in the delivery side of the fabric.

Types of Compactor Machine: Compactor machines are two types. They are-

1. Tubular compactor 2. Open compactor .

Tubular Compactor: Tubular compactor is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer. By the compactor machine, compacting is done for control the shrinkage of the fabric. Here, different types of off line quality of the fabric are measured. Functions of Tubular Compactor: Following objectives are achieved by the tubular compactor. They are-

1. Shrinkage of the fabric is controlled by the compactor. 2. Fabric width is controlled by the compactor. 3. GSM of the fabric is adjusted by the compacting. 4. Fabric smoothness is achieved by the compactor. 5. Heat setting of fabric for Lycra is done by tubular compactor.

Working Procedure of Tubular Compactor: The treatment of knit fabrics in tubular form on the Tubular compactor meets the exacting standards set by customers so that garment stitched from the fabric finished on this machine will yield the lowest residual shrinkage values. 1. Width control through a stepless adjustable special tubular fabric spreader driven by variable speed motor for distortion-free fabric guidance. 2. Steamping with a condensate-free steam box which is easily operated and completely made from stainless stell. 3. Compacting through two Nomex felt belts. 4. Calendaring while passing between the felt belt and the heated shrinking rollers. 5. Precision plaiting with automatic platform level adjustment controlled by folded fabric

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height. Alternatively, a fabric rolling system can be provided. The fabric is fed through the guiding system and stretcher which then takes the fabric through the steam box onto the felt of the twin compacting units. At the fabric delivery, the machine is equipped with a precision plaiting device with its platform. The height of the platform is controlled automatically and is adjustable according to the plaited fabric height. An optical fabric density measuring sensor can provide the means to automatically control the compaction of a tubular compactor to achieve the desired course count. An automatic compaction control system based on density measurement and control will:

• Eliminate over- and under-weight fabric. • Reduce or eliminate punch-weight measurements. • Provide consistent results from all operators. • Result in uniform fabric, seam-to-seam. • Yield predictable residual shrinkage.

Specification of Tubular Compactor Machine: Brand name Ferraro Model no. Comptex/Fv200 Manufacturing country Italy Speed range 13-22 m/min Temperature 110-140C Used utilities Electricity,Compress air,Steam Production capacity 4 ton/day Maximum width 86” Minimum width 36” Applied for Open width

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Open Width Compactor: Open compactor is used for compacting the open form fabric. Here, slitting machine is used for open the fabric from the tubular form. Feature of Open Width Compactor: Perfect sanforising finishing of knit fabrics.

1. Ideally suitable for in-line with stenter machines. 2. Effective shrinkage control 3. A.C. Inverter drives, PLC with touch screen used. 4. Equipped with modem connectivity and online troubleshooting system. 5. Metal detector.

Working Procedure of Open Width Compactor: Open Width Compactor is suitable for open width knit fabrics to achieve exact dimensional stability and a soft feel. The machine generally consists of a feeding frame with centering device and driven scroll rollers, an equalizing stenter frame with overfeed roller and brush pinning arrangement. The entry section of Pin Frame is provided with edge spreaders IR In-Feed device, an S.S. fabricated steaming unit for uniform moistening of the fabric. The Steaming Device has stainless steel sliding shutters that allow steam to flow only as per the width of the fabric. A low contact Glueing and Drying unit is provided with a stainless steel trough. Four selvedge drying units with infra-Red emitters are placed on either side of the machine. The delivery side section consists of edge dryer, Selvedge trimmer and a suction device, Exit roller, Width Adjustment device and the drive to the chain are housed in a exit box. The compacting unit consists of 2 felt compacting units, each of them consisting of a Nomex felt approx. 20 mm thick, a steam heated chrome-plated center roller of dia. 400 mm, a rubber covered roller driven by variable frequency drive, a compacting pressure roller, a felt tensioning roller and a felt centering roller. Each unit is provided with a special anti-fiction sheet type shoe controlled by an electrical actuator to control the compressive shrinkage. A fabric cooling roller is provided after second felt to cool the fabric by means of chilled water circulation. Fabric Tension through the machine is controlled with the help of sensitive load cells and variable frequency drive with PLC and touch screen.

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Specification of Open Width Compactor Machine:

Brand name Ferraro Model no. Comptex/Fv200 Manufacturing country Italy Speed range 13-22 m/min Temperature 110-140C Used utilities Electricity,Compress air,Steam Production capacity 4 ton/day Maximum width 86” Minimum width 36” Applied for Open width

Technical Data of Open Width Compactor:

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Slitter Machine: Slitter machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form. In open form fabric finishing line; slitter machine is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and drying machine. Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing. During slitting, it is required to be aware about the cutting line otherwise, fabric faults can be occurred there. Objectives of Slitting: Following objectives are achieved by the slitting machine.

1. To open tube fabric according to specific needle mark. 2. To prepare the fabric for next stentering process.

Function of the Slitting Machine:

1. Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing. 2. To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for

stentering. 3. Delivered fabric in crease free state. 4. Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a

nozzle or air sprayer. 5. It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding

mechanism.

Main Parts of Slitter Machine and their Functions: Following are the main machine parts and their functions.

1. Rotary Blade: Rotary blade is used for cutting the fabric through break Wales line.

2. Ring: Ring is use to help the cutting process. 3. Guide Roller: After slitting, plaiting of the fabric is done. Guide roller guides the

fabric to plaiting. 4. Plaiting: Open fabric is make plait by plaiting. 5. Sensor: Sensor is used for identify the specific Wales line. It makes sense for

cutting through break Wales’s line.

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Checking Parameters Slitter: Following parameters are checked after slitting.

1. Cutting Line Check: Fabric cutting line is checked by the operator of the slitting machine. Operator checks that the rotary blade cut fabric through break Wales’s line or not.

2. Bow and Slant check: Bow and slant is checked in the delivery side of the machine by the operator.

3. Fabric Faults: Various fabric faults also checked in slitting process.

Working Principle of Slitter Machine: The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done. Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device.

Line diagram of slitting machine Operational Parameter:

1. Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar) 2. Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).

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Faults in the Knitted Fabrics: A defect of the knitted fabric is an abnormality which spoils the aesthetics i.e. the clean & uniform appearance of the fabric & effects the performance parameters, like; dimensional stability etc. There are various types of defects which occur in the Knitted fabrics of all types caused by a variety of reasons. The same type of defects may occur in the fabric due to a variety of different causes e.g. Drop Stitches, Spirality etc.

Category of Defects: Yarn Related Defects: Almost all the defects appearing in the horizontal direction in the knitted fabric are yarn related. These defects are mainly;

1. Barriness 2. Thick & Thin lines 3. Dark or Light horizontal lines (due to the difference in dye pick up) 4. Imperfections 5. Contaminations 6. Snarling 7. Spirality

Knitting Elements Related Defects: Almost all the defects appearing in the vertical direction in the knitted fabrics are as a cause of bad Knitting Elements.These defects are mainly;

1. Needle & Sinker Lines 2. Drop Stitches etc.

Machine Settings Related Defects: These defects appear randomly in the knitted fabrics due to the wrong knitting machine settings &that of the machine parts. The defects are mainly;

1. Drop Stitches 2. Yarn Streaks 3. Barriness 4. Fabric press off 5. Broken Ends 6. Spirality

Dyeing Related Defects: The Dyeing related defects are as follows;

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1. Dyeing patches 2. Softener Marks 3. Shade variation 4. Tonal variation 5. Color fading (Poor Color Fastness) 6. Dull shade 7. Crease or rope Marks

Finishing Related Defects: Defects caused mainly due to the wrong process parameters are;

1. High Shrinkage 2. Skewing 3. Spirality 4. Surface Hairiness & Pilling 5. Tonal variation 6. Snagging (Sharp points in the dyeing machine or trolley etc) 7. Fold Marks 8. Wet Squeezer Marks 9. GSM variation 10. Fabric Width variation 11. Curling of S.J. Fabrics

Drop Stitches (Holes): Definition: Drop Stitches are randomly appearing small or big holes of the same or different size which appear as defects in the Knitted fabrics.

Hole in fabric

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Major Causes:

• High Yarn Tension • Yarn Overfeed or Underfeed • High Fabric Take Down Tension • Defects like Slubs, Neps, Knots etc. • Incorrect gap between the Dial & Cylinder rings.

Remedies:

1. Ensure uniform yarn tension on all the feeders with a Tension Meter. 2. Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated as per the required Stitch Length. 3. The fabric tube should be just like a fully inflated balloon, not too tight or too

slack. 4. The yarn being used should have no imperfections like; Slubs, Neps & big knots

etc 5. The gap between the Cylinder & the Dial should be correctly adjusted as per the

knitted loop size.

Barriness: Definition: Barriness defect appears in the Knitted fabric in the form of horizontal stripes of uniform or variable width. Causes:

• High Yarn Tension • Count Variation • Mixing of the yarn lots • Package hardness variation

Remedies:

• Ensure uniform Yarn Tension on all the feeders. • The average Count variation in the lot should not be more than + 0.3 • Ensure that the yarn being used for Knitting is of the same Lot . • Ensure that the hardness of all the yarn packages is uniform using a hardness

tester.

Streakiness : Definition: Streaks in the Knitted fabrics appear as; irregularly spaced & sized, thin horizontal lines. Causes:

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• Faulty winding of the yarn packages. • Yarn running out of the belt on the Pulley

Remedies:

• Winding of the yarn package should be proper. • The yarn should be running between the belt and around the pulley.

Imperfections: Definition: Imperfections appear on the fabric surface in the form of unevenly placed or randomly appearing Knots, Slubs & Neps, Thick & Thin places in the yarn. Causes:

• Big Knots, Slubs & Neps in the yarn, Thick & Thin yarn.

Remedies:

• Specify the quality parameters of the yarns to be used for production to the yarn supplier.

Snarls : Definition: Snarls appear on the fabric surface in the form of big loops of yarn getting twisted due to the high twist in the yarn. Causes:

• High twist in the yarn.

Remedies:

• Twist in the yarn should be in required TPM.

Contaminations: Definition: Contaminations appear in the form of foreign matter such as; dyed fibers, husk, dead fibers etc. in the staple spun yarn or embedded in the knitted fabric structure. Causes:

• Presence of dead fibers & other foreign materials, such as; dyed fibers, husk & synthetic fibers etc.

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• Dyed & other types of fibers flying from the adjacent Knitting machines cling to the yarn being used for knitting & get embedded in the Grey Fabric.

Remedies:

• Use rich fiber mixing for the yarns to be used for Knitting in order to have less dead fibers appearing in the fabric.

• Rigid control measures in the Blow Room to prevent the mixing of foreign matters in the Cotton mixing.

• Segregate the Spinning & Knitting Machines, with Plastic Curtains or Mosquito Nets, to prevent the fibers flying from the neighboring machines, from getting embedded in the yarn / fabric.

Spirality: Definition: Spirality appears in the form of a twisted garment after washing. The seams on both the sides of the garment displace from their position & appear on the front & back of the garment. Causes:

• High T.P.I. of the Hosiery Yarn • Uneven Fabric tension on the Knitting machine. • Unequal rate of Fabric feed on the Stenter, Calender & Compactor machines.

Remedies:

• Use the Hosiery yarns of the recommended TPM level for Knitting. • Ensure uniform rate of feed of the dyed fabric on both the edges while feeding the

fabric to the Calender, Compactor or Stenter machines.

Needle Lines: Definition: Needle lines are prominent vertical lines along the length of the fabric which are easily visible in the grey as well as finished fabric. Causes:

• Bent Latches, Needle Hooks & Needle stems • Wrong Needle selection (Wrong sequence of needles, put in the Cylinder or Dial)

Remedies:

• Inspect the grey fabric on the knitting machine for any Needle lines. • Check the Needle filling sequence in the Cylinder / Dial grooves (tricks).

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Horizontal lines: Causes:

• Fault in bobbin • Irregular tension on cams.

Remedies:

• Replace that bobbin. • Check cams positioning

Horizontal line in fabric Broken Needles/ Laddering: Definition: Defects caused by the broken needles show prominently as vertical lines parallel to the Wales. There are no loops formed in the Wale which has a broken needle.

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Laddering effects Causes:

• High Yarn Tension • Bad Setting of the Yarn Feeders • Old & Worn out Needle set • Cylinder Grooves are too tight restricting needle movement • Breakage of hook or butt in needle.

Remedies:

• Ensure uniform & the right Yarn tension on all the feeders. • Keep the recommended gap between the Yarn Feeders & the Needles. • Periodically change the complete set of needles. • Remove fly or blockage from groove. • Replace defective needle.

Sinker Lines: Definitions: Sinker lines are prominent or feeble vertical lines appearing parallel to the Wales along the length of the knitted fabric tube. Causes:

• Bent or Worn out Sinkers • Sinkers being tight in the Sinker Ring grooves

Remedies:

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• Replace all the worn out or bent sinkers causing Sinker lines in the fabric. • Sinker lines are very fine & feeble vertical lines appearing in the fabric. • Remove the fibers clogging the Sinker tricks (Groove

Oil Lines: Definitions: Oil lines are prominent vertical lines which appear along the length of the knitted fabric tube. The lines become permanent if the needle oil used is not washable & gets baked due to the heat during the finishing of the fabric. Causes:

• Fibers & fluff accumulated in the needle tricks which remain soaked with oil. • Excessive oiling of the needle beds.

Remedies:

• Fibers accumulated in the needle tricks cause the oil to seep into the Fabric. • Some lubricating oils are not washable & can not be removed during Scouring. • Remove all the Needles & the Sinkers of the machine periodically. • Clean the grooves of the Cylinder & Dial of the machine thoroughly with petrol. • Blow the grooves of the Cylinder Dial & Sinker ring with dry air after cleaning.

Broken Ends : Definition: Broken ends appear as equidistant prominent horizontal lines along the width of the fabric tube when a yarn breaks or is exhausted. Causes:

• High Yarn Tension • Yarn exhausted on the Cones.

Remedies:

• Ensure correct yarn tension on all the feeders. • Ensure that the Yarn detectors on all the feeders are working properly. • Depute a skilled & alert machine operator on the knitting machine.

Fabric Press Off : Definition: Fabric press off appears as a big or small hole in the fabric caused due to the interruption of the loop forming process as a result of the yarn breakage or closed needle hooks.

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Press off takes place, when the yarn feeding to both the short butt & long butt needles suddenly stops due to the yarn breakage. At times complete fabric tube can fall off the needles if the needle detectors are not functioning or are not properly set. Causes:

• End breakage on feeders with all needles knitting. • Yarn feeder remaining in lifted up position due to which the yarn doesn’t get fed

in the hooks of the needles.

Remedies:

• Needle detectors, should be set precisely to detect the closed needles & prevent the fabric tube from completely pressing off.

• Proper yarn tension should be maintained on all the feeders.

Surface Hairiness & Piling : Definition: Surface hairiness appears in the form of excess superfluous fibers, on the surface of the knitted fabrics, which have either been reprocessed, or tumble dried. Pilling appears as, small fiber balls formed on the fabric surface, due to the entanglement of loose surface fibers. Factors such as, the fiber staple length, low T.P.M. & fabric construction (with long yarn floats) etc. also contribute to pilling. Causes:

• Abrasion due to the contact with rough surfaces • Excessive surface hairiness caused, due to the abrasive tumbling action • Fabric friction in the Tumble Dryer • Rough Dyeing process & abrasive machine surfaces (Soft Flow Machine tubes,

Tumble Dryer drum etc.) • Reprocessing of the fabric is, also a major cause of piling.

Remedies:

• Avoid using the Tumble Dryer. • Control shrinkage by maximum fabric relaxation & over feed in the processing. • Regularly inspect the fabric contact points on all the machines, for any rough &

sharp surface. • Avoid repeated reprocessing of the fabrics.

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• Use anti pilling chemical treatments for the fabrics prone to pilling.

Snagging: Definition: Snagging appears on the knitted fabric surface as a pulled up yarn float showing up in the form of a large loop. Causes:

• Caused by the pulling or the plucking of yarn from the, fabric surface, by sharp objects.

Remedies:

• Inspect & rectify the fabric contact points on all the machines (Soft Flow Dyeing, Tumble Dryer & Centrifuge etc), on which snagging is taking place.

Bowing Definition: Bowing appears as rows of courses or yarn dyed stripes forming a bow shape along the fabric width. Causes:

• Uneven distribution of tensions across the fabric width while dyeing or finishing the fabric.

Remedies:

• Bowing can be corrected by reprocessing the fabric by feeding it from the opposite end.

• A special machine (MAHLO) is also available for correcting the bowing in the knitted fabrics.

Dyeing Patches: Definition: Dyeing patches appear, as random irregular patches on the surface of dyed fabrics. Causes:

• Inadequate Scouring of the grey fabric is one of the primary causes of the dyeing patches.

• Improper leveling agent is also one of the causes of dyeing patches. • Correct pH value not maintained.

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• Dyeing machine stoppage due to power failure or the fabric entanglement in the dyeing machine are a major cause of the dyeing patches.

Remedies:

• Scour the grey fabric thoroughly to remove all the impurities from the fabric before dyeing.

• Use appropriate leveling agents to prevent patchy dyeing. • Maintain the correct pH value during the course of dyeing. • Use a power back up (Inverter) for the dyeing operation to be completed

uninterrupted.

Softener Marks: Definition: Softener marks appear as distinct irregular patches in the dried fabric after the application of softener. Causes:

• Softener not being uniformly dissolved in water

Remedies:

• Scour the grey fabric thoroughly to remove all the impurities from the fabric before dyeing.

• Ensure that the softener is uniformly dissolved in the water & doesn’t remain un-dissolved as lumps or suspension.

• Use the right softener & the correct procedure for the application. • Maintain the correct pH value of the softener before application.

Stains : Definition: Stains appear as spots or patches of grease oil or dyes of different color, in a neat & clean finished fabric surface. Causes:

• Dyeing Machine not cleaned thoroughly after dyeing a lot. • Grease & Oil stains from the unguarded moving machine parts like; Gears Shafts

Driving Pulleys & Trolley wheels etc. • Fabric touching the floors & other soiled places during transportation, in the

trolleys. • Handling of the fabric with soiled hands & stepping onto the stored fabric with

dirty feet or shoes on.

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Remedies:

• Wash & clean the dyeing machine thoroughly after dyeing every dye lot. • Follow the dyeing cycle of Light- Medium- Dark shades & then the reverse the

cycle while dyeing the fabric. • All the lubricated moving machine parts should be protected with safety guards. • Make sure that the fabric is neatly packed in or covered with Polythene sheets

while transporting or in storage. • Handle the fabric carefully with clean hands & do not let anyone step onto the

stored fabric.

Color Fading (Poor Color Fastness): Definition: The color of the garment or the fabric appears lighter & pale in comparison to the original color of the product after a few uses. Causes:

• Dyeing recipe i.e. the poor fixing of the dyes is a major cause of color fading. • Using the wrong combination of colors in a secondary or tertiary shade. • Use of strong detergents & the quality of water are also the common causes for

color fading. • Prolonged exposure to strong light will also cause the colors to fade. • High level of acidity or alkalinity in the perspiration of individuals also causes

color fading.

Remedies:

• Use the correct dyeing recipe i.e. the appropriate leveling, fixing agents & the correct combination of dyes.

• Follow the wash care instructions rigidly. • Use mild detergents & soft water for washing the garments. • Don’t soak the garments for more than 10- 15 minutes in the detergent prior to

washing • Turn the wet garments inside out while drying. • Dry in shade & not in direct sunlight. • Protect the garments against prolonged direct exposure to strong lights (show

rooms or exhibitions etc.).

Shade Variation: (Roll to roll & within the same roll) Definition: Sometimes there appears to be a difference in the depth of shade between the roll to roll & from place to place in the same roll. The defect will show up clearly in

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the garments manufactured from such fabric. Causes:

• Shade variation can be as a result of mixing of the, fabrics of two different lots. • Shade variation is also caused, by the variation in the process parameters i.e.

Time, Temperature & Speed etc. from one fabric roll, to the other. • Shade variation can appear to be, in fabrics with GSM variation, caused due to the

uneven stretching, unequal fabric overfeed % etc.

Remedies:

• Ensure that the grey fabric used for one shade is knitted from the same lot of the yarn.

• Ensure that the same process parameters (Width, Overfeed, Temperature & Machine Speed etc.) are used for each roll of a dye lot.

Tonal Variation: Definition: Roll to roll or within the same roll difference in the color perception i.e. Greenish, Bluish, Reddish or Yellowish etc. is attributed as tonal variation in the shade. Causes:

• Wrong Dyeing recipe • Wrong leveling agent selection or wrong dyes combinations. • Improper fabric Scouring. • Impurities like Oil & Wax etc. not being completely removed in Scouring • Level dyeing not being done due to the inappropriate leveling agents. • Variation in the process parameters, e.g. Temperature, Time & Speed etc .

Remedies:

• Use appropriate leveling agents to ensure uniform & level dyeing. • Scour the grey fabric thoroughly to ensure the removal of all the impurities. • Ensure that the whole lot of the dyed fabric is processed under uniform process

parameters.

Wet Squeezer Marks: Definition: The fabric on the edges of the fabric tube gets permanent pressure marks due to the hard pressing by the squeezer rolls. These marks appear as distinct lines along the length of the fabric & can’t be corrected.

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Causes:

• These marks are caused due to the excessive pressure, of the squeezer rolls of the Padding Mangle, on the wet fabric, while rinsing.

Remedies:

• Use the Padding mangle only for the application of the softener. • Use a hydro extractor (Centrifuge) for the extraction to avoid the squeezer roll

marks. • Soon after extraction open the fabric manually to prevent crease marks in the

damp fabric.

Folding Marks: Definition: Fold marks appear as distinct pressure marks along the length of the fabric. Causes:

• High pressure of the fabric Take Down rollers of the Knitting machine on the grey fabric is one of the main causes.

• Too much pressure of the feeding rolls of the Calander & Compactor is the primary cause of the folding marks in the knitted fabric.

Remedies:

• Adjust the gap between the two rolls as per the thickness of the fabric sheet . • Gap between the two Calander rolls should be just enough to let the rolls remove

the wrinkles in the fabric but put no pressure on the fabric sheet especially in the case of Pique & structured fabrics.

Crease Marks: Definition: Crease marks appear in the knitted fabric, as dark haphazard broken or continuous lines. Causes:

• Damp fabric moving at high speed in twisted form, in the Hydro extractor (Centrifuge)

Remedies:

• Use anti Crease, during the Scouring & the Dyeing process .

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• The use of anti Crease, swells the Cellulose & prevents the formation of Crease mark.

• Spread the fabric in loose & open form & not in the rope form, in the Hydro Extractor.

High Shrinkage: Definition: The original intended measurements of the Garment go, haywire, during storage or after the very first wash. Causes:

• High Stresses & strains exerted on the fabric, during Knitting, Dyeing & Processing & the fabric not being allowed to relax properly, thereafter.

• High shrinkage is primarily due to the fabric being subject to high tension, during the Knitting, Dyeing & the Finishing processes

Remedies:

• Keep the Grey Fabric in loose plated form, immediately after the roll is cut. • Store the finished fabric also in the plated form & not in the roll form. • Allow the fabric to relax properly, before it is cut. • Give maximum overfeed to the fabric, during the processing, on the Stenter,

Compactor & the Calandering machines.

GSM Variation: Definition: The fabric will appear to have a visible variation in the density, from roll to roll or within the same roll of, the same dye lot. Causes:

• Roll to roll variation in the, process parameters, of the fabric, like; Overfeed & Width wise stretching of the dyed fabric, on the Stenter, Calender & Compactor machines.

• Roll to roll variation in the fabric stitch length.

Remedies:

• Make sure that all the fabric rolls in a lot, are processed under the same process parameters.

• The Knitting Machine settings, like; the Quality Pulley diameter etc. should never be disturbed.

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Fabric Width Variation: Definition: Different rolls of the same fabric lot, having difference in the finished width of the fabric. Causes:

• Grey fabric of the same lot, knitted on different makes of Knitting Machines, having varying number of Needles in the Cylinder.

• Roll to roll difference, in the Dyed Fabric stretched width, while feeding the fabric on the Stenter, Calander & Compactor.

Remedies:

• The whole lot of the grey fabric should be knitted on the same make of knitting machines.

• For the same gauge & diameter of the knitting machines, there can be a difference of as high as 40 needles, from one makes to the other make of the machine.

• This difference, in the number of needles, causes a difference of upto 2”-3” in the finished width of the fabric

• The stretched width of the grey fabric should remain constant, during finishing on the stenter.

Measurement Problems: Definition: The measurements of the garments totally change after, a few hours of relaxation & after the first wash. The arm lengths or the front & back lengths of the garments may vary, due to the mix up of the parts. Causes:

• Shrinkage caused due to the inadequate relaxation of the knitted fabrics, before cutting.

• Mixing of the garment parts cut from, different layers or different rolls of the knitted fabric.

Remedies:

• Use a trolley, for laying the fabric on the table, to facilitate a tension free, laying. • Let the fabric relax for a few hours, before cutting, especially the Lycra fabrics. • Ensure the numbering of the different layers of the fabric, to prevent the mix up of

the components.

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Circular Knitting Machine: Circular knitting machine is widely used through out the knitting industry to produce fabric. This machine can be built in almost any reasonable diameter and the small diameter of up to five, which are used for wear. Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter according to manufactures requirement. This machine can be used either as fabric or for making garments completely with fancy stitch. Latch needles are commonly employed in all modern circular machines because of their simple action and also their ability to process more types of yarns.

Important Parts of Circular Knitting Machine: Creel: Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Hear yarn package are store and ready to feed in the machine.

Photo: Creel.

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VDQ Pulley: It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the quality of the product. Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase.

Photo: VDQ Pulley.

Pulley Belt: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.

Photo: Pulley Belt. Brush: Its clean the pulley belt.

Photo: Brush.

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Tension Disk: It confronts the tension of the supply yarn.

Photo: Tension Disk.

Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion: It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine instantly when a yarn is break.

Photo: Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion. Yarn Guide: Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder.

Photo: Yarn Guide.

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MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel.

Photo: MPF Wheel. MPF: It is Mamenger positive feed. It is also an important part of the machine. It’s give positive feed to the machine.

Photo: MPF. Feeder Ring: It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together.

Photo: Feeder Ring.

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Disk Drum: Use in jacquard machine to produce various types of design.

Photo: Disk Drum. Pattern Wheel: Pattern Wheel use in Pai Lung and Auto Stripe machine because of that that help to produce various types of design and stripe.

Photo: Pattern Wheel. Feeder: Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine.

Photo: Feeder.

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Needle Track: Where all Needles is placed together in a decent design.

Photo: Needle Track. Needle: It is a principal element of the knitting machine. Its help the yarn to create a loop. And by this way fabric are produce. Prior to yarn feeding the needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook, and received the new loop above it on needle stem. The new loop is then enclosed in the needle hook as the needle starts to descend.

Photo: Different Types of Needle. Sinker: It is most important element of the machine. Its help to loop forming, knocking over and holding down the loop.

Photo: Sinker.

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Sinker Ring: Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are pleased together.

Photo: Sinker Ring. Cam Box: Where the cam are set horizontally.

Photo: Cam Box. Cam: Cam is device s which converts the rotary machine drive in to a suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other elements.

Photo: Cam. Lycra Attachment Device: Lycra is placed hear. And feeding to the machine.

Photo: Lycra Attachment Device.

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Lycra Stop Motion: It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the Lycra is break.

Photo: Lycra Stop Motion. Cylinder: Needle track are situated hear.

Photo: Cylinder. Cylinder Balancer: It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment.

Photo: Cylinder Balancer.

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Uniwave Lubrication: The Uniwave lubricator provides uniform lubrication to needles, cam tracks, lifters and other knitting machine components. The patented nozzle construction separates the air-oil mixture into air and droplets of oil.

Photo: Uniwave Lubrication System. Adjustable Fan: This part removes lint, hairy fibre from yarn and others. To clean the dust by air flow.

Photo: Adjustable Fan. Expander: To control the width of the knitted fabric. No distortion of the knitting courses. Even take down tension in the knitting machine. As a result, an even fabric structure is achieved over the entire fabric width. The deformation of the knitted fabric goods can be reduced.

Photo: Expander.

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Needle Detector: This part detect the any type of faults of needles.

Photo: Needle Detector. Air Gun Nozzle: To feed the yarn; sometimes it is used for cleaning purpose.

Photo: Air Gun Nozzle.

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Production Calculation From Loop Length:

Let us consider a circular Single Jersey knitting machines , having F no of Feeder and N no of needles, is running with a speed of n r.p.m and producing a fabrics of loop length ‘l’ mm. Hence , no of courses produced in 1 rev. = F no of courses produced in n ,, = F.n no of courses produced in 1 min. = F.n no of courses produced in 1 hr = F.n.60 As loop length in ‘l’ mm and the total no needle are N

Circular knitting machineSo, yarn consumed by 1 needle from 1 course = l mm yarn consumed by 1 needle from 1 hr = F.n.60.l mm yarn consumed by N needle from 1 hr = F.n.60.l.N mm = F.n.60.l.N/1000 meter Total yarn consumed by the m/c in 1 hr = F.n.60.l.N/1000 meter If yarn count is Nm , then the weight of above yarn = F.n.60.l.N/1000.Nm.1000 Kg

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For Example: Problem: Calculate the production for a circular knitting machine whith the given data Feeder=84 Diameter=30 inch Gauge=24/inch Cylinder r.p.m=18 Yarn count=30Ne Efficiency=90% Stitch length=2 mm Solution: Length of yarn= (3.14×30× 24× 2 ×84× 18× 60 ×24 ×90)/(1000 ×100) =8860310.32 meter =8860.31 km Now, 20Ne=Ne×tex=590.6 So,tex=590.6/20 =29.58 Again, 1 km yarn weight =29.53 gm 8860.31 km yarn weight=(29.53× 8860.31) =261.64 kg

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Interlock Circular knitting M/C:

OBJECTS: 1.To have the idea about an interlock m/c. 2.To know about its working principles. Introduction: Interlock structure is a double faced Interlock structure which consists of two 1×1 Interlock structures. These two 1×1 Interlock structures are joined by interlocking sinker loops and thus produce interlock structure. Interlock structure is produce by special cylinder dial circular machines. Double system V-bed flat knitting machine also used to produce interlock structure. SPECIFICATIONS:

1. Machine name: Interlock Circular Knitting Machine. 2. Company:- Precision FUKUHARA Works Limited. 3. Origin of the machine:- Japan 4. Model no. :- V 8ME 42 5. Dia of the machine:- 30”. 6. Gauge of the machine:- 22 7. No of Feeder:- 84 8. Serial no:- 1352761. 9. Creel Capacity: 84. 10. Feeding: Positive.

MACHINE PARTS: 1.Yarn career 2.Break stop motion 3.Yarn guides 4.Dial 5.Cylinder 6.Dial cams 7.Cylinder cams 8.Dial needles 9.Cylinder needles 10.Oiling and air following devices 11.Sensors 12.Take up rollers 13.Batch rollers 14.Motor 15.Belts 16.Clutches 17.Pulleys and gears.

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Machine description: The machine has two sets of needles on two different beds, one set on cylinder one in the dial bed. These two sets of needles must be exactly opposite to each other. The machine has two separate cam system in each bed needles of different length called short needles and long needles. Each cam system controls half of the needles in alternate sequences. One cam system controls knitting at one feeder and other ca, system controls at the next feeders. T ale down mechanism is the same as the other Interlock and plain machines mechanism. Interlock cam system: In the figure the cylinder and dial camming to produce one course of ordinary interlock fabric which is actually work of two knitting feeders. The cylinder cam: A → clearing cam which lifts the needles to clear the old loop B, C → stitch cam and guard cams respectively both vertically adjustable to control the stitch length. D → up through to rise the needle whilst dial needle knock over E, F → guard cam to complete the truck G, H → guide cam to provide the track for idling needles

Cylinder Cam System

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The dial system: 1. Raising cam for tuck position only 2, 3. Dial knock over cam 4. Guard cam to compete the truck 5. Auxiliary knock over cam to prevent the dial needle reentering the old loop 6, 7 Guide cams provides the tracks for idling needles 8. Sewing type clearing cam which may occupy the knitting position as shown in feeder 1 or in tuck position at feeder 2. Machine parts:

1. Yarn career 2. Break stop motion 3. Yarn guides 4. Dial 5. Cylinder 6. Dial cams 7. Cylinder cams 8. Dial needles 9. Cylinder needles 10. Oiling and air following devices 11. Sensors 12. Take up rollers 13. Batch rollers 14. Motor 15. Belts 16. Pulleys and gears Clutches

Knitting action:

Conclusion: The circular Interlock machine is a very commonly used machine in country to make Interlock knitted fabric. So this experiment has significance in our study life. In this experiment we sketch the yarn path diagram of the machine, show the knitting action, cam system. We point out the various specification of the machine. So the experiment helps us to know more.

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Rib Circular Knitting M/c: Introduction The structure in which the face and back loop occurs along to the coarse successively but all the loops of a wale is same is called rib structure. The circular knitting machine which is used to produce the rib structures is known as rib machine. Machine specification:

1. Machine model → cmoan 2. Manufacturer → Paolo Orizio 3. Made in → Italy 4. No of feeders’ → 40 5. Cylinder diameter →20” 6. Needle gauge → 18 / inch

Machine parts:

1. Yarn career 2. Break stop motion 3. Yarn guides 4. Dial 5. Cylinder 6. Dial cams 7. Cylinder cams 8. Dial needles 9. Cylinder needles 10. Oiling and air following devices 11. Sensors 12. Take up rollers 13. Batch rollers 14. Motor 15. Belts 16. Pulleys and gears 17. Clutches

Description of the machine: In a dial cylinder rib machine there is one set of needles on the circumference of the vertical cylinder and another set of needles on a horizontal dial. So two sets of needles remain at the right angle with each other. In dial cylinder machines the dial and cylinder rotates but the cam systems with the feeders remain stationary. The dial needles get its motion from its butt which is placed on the cam truck. This cam truck is formed by different cam placed on a cam plate. During the rotation of the cylinder, cylinder needles moves vertically and dial needles moves horizontally. Cylinder needles also get its motion from it. There is a cloth tale up roller which also rotates with unison to dial and cylinder and fabric is wound on it.

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In rib circular knitting m/c, Rib gaiting:

Knitting action: The knitting action of a circular rib machine is shown in Fig: 1. Clearing: The cylinder and dial needles move out to clear the plain and rib loops formed in the previous cycle. 2. Yarn feeding: The needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the old loops are covered by the open latches and the new yarn is fed into the open hooks. 3. Knocking Over: The needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the old loops are cast off and new loops are drawn through them.

Fig: Knitting action of rib circular knitting machineConclusion: This experiment has significance in our study life. In this experiment we sketch the yarn path diagram of the machine, show the knitting action, cam system. We point out the various specification of the machine.

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