sound leaks in doors

12
NOISE REDUCTIONS SOUND LEAKS IN DOORS AND WINDOWS

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Page 1: Sound leaks in doors

NOISE REDUCTIONS

SOUND LEAKS IN DOORS AND WINDOWS

Page 2: Sound leaks in doors

DOORS AND WINDOWS

Whether residential or commercial, most doors are poor isolators of airborne sound. Two main reasons for the poor performance are;

1 poor seals and

2 lack of mass in the door itself.

Page 3: Sound leaks in doors

DOOR AND WINDOW CHECKPOINTS

• Check the basic structure for problems — Are your doors too thin? Are they hollow? Do your doors have louver panels? Are windows constructed with a single pane of glass? How thick is the glass?

• Check tightness — Are door and window jambs without seals or gaskets, or are the gaskets worn out, torn away or out of alignment? Check seals by closing the door or window on a piece of paper. If the paper is easily pulled through the jamb, and you feel little or no resistance, your seals are not as good as they should be. Anywhere you can feel air movement or see light shine through is also a trouble spot.

• Check the sweep-seal at bottom of door — Does the door bottom seal tightly over threshold? Again, the paper test works well.

Page 4: Sound leaks in doors
Page 5: Sound leaks in doors

DOOR AND WINDOW SOLUTIONS

-Doors need to be as heavy as possible and airtight. A double-door assembly will always out-perform a single door.  

The door, or more accurately the door slab, is often hollow. Fortunately, most hollow core doors can be exactly replaced with solid core doors. The difference in mass, yields significant improvements. You will be faced with different slab core options such as particleboard filled, MDF filled or a mineral core. It is better to stick with either particleboard or MDF, since mineral core is more expensive. Now this heavy doors needs to be sealed.. Standard door weather strip works well for the top and two sides of the door, but that big gap on the bottom of the door is too big for lightweight, thin weather strip. Consider installing a block to the underside of the door, then sealing with a door sweep.

Page 6: Sound leaks in doors
Page 7: Sound leaks in doors

• If your doors and windows do not have seals, or they are torn or missing, add new seals. Magnetic seals work the best but, if they are not an option, make sure to choose a dense, flexible material like neoprene. When the door or window is shut, the seals should be in line with, and compress against, a flat clean surface. The goal should be an air tight connection.

Page 8: Sound leaks in doors

• Many doors will have a drop-down sweep seal that seals against the threshold when the door is shut. Often these are simply out of alignment and can be adjusted with a screwdriver. If there is no sweep seal, have one installed. Typically they consist of a sweep-seal closure and threshold plate. They will require frequent checking to ensure proper alignment.

Page 9: Sound leaks in doors

Most rooms it's possible to fit doors to either side of the wall, leaving an air gap the thickness of the walls between them. Both doors should be fitted with seals, but only one needs to have a pressure latch -- the outer door can have a spring closer

. It's also vital to make the door airtight, so use heavy-duty seals around the edges, not forgetting the threshold below the door. If you can afford it, fit a compression latch (similar to those fitted to industrial freezers), so that the door is squeezed more tightly shut as you pull the handle down. These are mechanically simple latches that work by running up a tapered plastic wedge screwed to the door frame, so that the door is forced harder against the seal as the handle is closed.

• Louvers in a door can simply be taken out and the remaining hole insulated and surfaced with solid boards. Make sure to check with a mechanical engineer or your building maintenance supervisor to be sure return air circulation will not be interrupted.

Page 10: Sound leaks in doors

Communicating Doors (Airlock Doors)Despite your best efforts to seal the door, it will always be one of the weakest link. The wall construction is far more isolating than the door. The wall has more mass and no concerns about seals. One excellent way to help is to create a communicating door system. Two doors face each other to create an airlock. This works well when you have a wider wall such as a staggered stud or double stud wall. Note: You will need to accommodate the protrusion of the door handles.

Page 11: Sound leaks in doors

Automatic Door Bottom

Another option is to install an Automatic Door Bottom to your door. This is helpful if you can’t deal with the exterior jamb threshold or have a transition in height (tile to heavy pile carpet) that won’t allow you to reduce the giant gap under that door.

Page 12: Sound leaks in doors

WINDOWS To eliminate sound leaking through a single pane of glass, consider adding a second pane of laminated glass. Use glass that is at least 1/4" thick and separate the two panes as far apart as possible. Make sure your alterations do not compromise fire codes and again compare the costs to installing new window units.

• For window panes that are loose in their mountings, re-glaze the openings or seal panes to be airtight.