South GreenlandAdventures of a world apart

Does anything grow in South Greenland besides ice ferns…?

landscape is so profoundly beautiful.The towns will surprise you, too. The houses are painted in

bright, cheerful colours that make you feel welcome before youhave even spoken with the inhabitants – who are very hos-pitable for that matter. The main trades in South Greenlandare sheep farming, seal hunting and fishing. Yet handicrafts,like finely worked skin products and figurines carved out ofsoapstone and bone, are also characteristic of South Greenland.

This brochure gives you a little foretaste of the abundantoffers in South Greenland. No matter how much you read

before you arrive, however, SouthGreenland will probably still overwhelmyou when you find yourself standingthere in person. Welcome to adventuresof a world apart.

Live hard, die young. That couldbe the motto for Arctic flowers inSouth Greenland that blossom foronly a brief while. When they do,however, it is with such vigour andin such a variety of rich coloursthat anyone expecting a cold, bar-

ren landscape will be thoroughly astonished.The flowers are very symbolic of South

Greenland which is an amazingly colourful,astounding and varied region.

Take the night sky, for example. As early asAugust when the darkness slowly returns, theeffervescent northern lights softly play acrossthe large dark canvas. Or contemplate the

icebergs carvedby wind andweather intofloating sculp-tures with highlyimaginativeshapes and refinements. Or listen to thesilence and your own inner peace – anunparalleled experience not found anywhereelse in the world. Take an excursion, and youwill invariably be astounded. You will experi-ence how the journeys to and from your des-tination are just as thrilling as the attractionitself. Not because the attractions are un-inspiring, but because the South Greenland

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A unique feature enjoyed by many visitors are the hot springs of SouthGreenland. The hot water, 36° C, gushesup from the underground to create a natural pool. Lying in the water, youenjoy the sight of icebergs floating pastin the sea.

Yes… In summer South Greenland is lilac, red, yellow and blue

The SouthGreenland summeris brief and intense.

In a jumble ofcolours you can

experience around350 of the some 500

different plantspecies that grow in

Greenland.

Contents:

2-3 Welcome to South Greenland4-5 Hiking6-7 The Ice8-9 The Norse10 Travelling to South Greenland11 Settlements of South Greenland12 Narsarsuaq13 Narsaq14 Qaqortoq15 Nanortalik

Welcome to South Greenland

Are there rest areas in South Greenland…?

A gigantic pedestrian precinct. That isone way to describe South Greenlandwhere vehicles, with few exceptions,are only found in towns. The absenceof cars and roads is one of the reasonsthat South Greenland is a rambler’sparadise.

Another reason is the beautiful,varied landscape. From standing in the

middle of a towns, it takes you less than thirtyminutes before you are standing in the middleof wild scenery. With the proper gear on yourback and a hiking map in hand, SouthGreenland lies at your feet. Even if you are nota seasoned footslogger.

That’s because South Greenland offers terrainfor toughened and novice hikers alike.

A unique feature of Greenland is that you canusually put up your tent wherever you like. Ifyou find a particularly beautiful spot – andthere are many to choose from – it can betransformed into a camping site right then andthere. Modern facilities will hardly be missed.Clean water is found in the nearest river, whereyou can also catch char for dinner.

If you want a roof over your head all thesame, there are sheep farms throughout most ofSouth Greenland that rent out small inexpen-sive cabins. Here you can be supplied with

vegetables and Greenlandic lamb, a great delicacy.Modern farming actually occurs on the very same fieldscultivated by the Norse. At the same time you have anopportunity to experience a totally different way of liv-ing and maybe even a nice chat as well. It is also nice toknow that wherever there are sheep, there are no mos-quitoes. But naturally, your primary encounter will bewith the great outdoors that generously offers everythingfrom the inland ice cap to fertile valleys, from tumul-tuous waterfalls to peaceful lakes, from narrow clefts toendless expanses. An impassable universe for motorists,but a true paradise for hikers.

Camping in Greenland is allowed all over, with three excep-tions: You are not permitted to put up your tent on privatefields, tenting sites must be at least 50 metres from ruins andtenting is not permitted near water reservoirs. For longer hikes, it is important to take along waterproof clothing andsturdy hiking boots. Also remember to bring a mosquito netand first-aid kit, and always tell someone where you are goingand how long you expect to be gone.

Hiking maps of South Greenlandcan be purchased at tourist

offices. The routes are markedaccording to difficulty, but

you can also choose to blaze your own trails.

You decide where to setup camp in SouthGreenland.

Yes… but there are no cars

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Hiking

Does South Greenland have triumphal arches…?

A visit to South Greenland willinevitably improve your sense of ice.You will discover that frozen water canbe one of the most impressive sights inthe world. And that the SouthGreenland landscape offers more vari-eties than a well-stocked Italian icecream parlour.

The South Greenland icebergsare nothing short of gigantic works of art createdby nature in the most fantastic shapes andcolours. This natural art museum can be reachedfrom most towns and settlements by boat. If youare lucky, you will see whales playing on the sur-face along the way.

Field ice is totally different. It consists of largesaltwater floes formed in the Arctic Ocean northof Greenland. From here the ice drifts with thecurrent more than 3000 kilometres down alongthe east coast around Cape Farewell and upalong the west coast. Occasionally the ice packsare so dense that sea traffic is discontinued andsupplies must be flown in by helicopter. Theadvent of the field ice tells the hunters that thehunt for hooded seal can begin.

Lastly, there is the inland ice cap that resem-bles a giant sea of ice covering most of Greenland.You can both sail and hike up to it and see how

the green turf is abruptly replaced by a giganticice-covered landscape with deep glacial clefts,huge caves and a chalk-white horizon shining asbrightly as the sun. A scene of incomprehensiblesplendour.

The silence is perhaps the most overwhelmingaspect of the ice, however. A quietness thatdelves deep into your soul and gives you an inde-scribable feeling of inner peace. People who loveGreenland appreciate this fusion with naturemore than anything else. The tranquillity beck-ons them back to Greenland. Again and again.

Like the sky and sea, the blue colour derives from thereflecting light. The colour’s shade is determined by theamount of air contained in the ice. A high air contentmakes the ice appear opaque and white, while a low aircontent gives the ice a bright blue colour.

As you walk through the landscapes,

you can experiencehow the greenest, most

luxuriant areas aresuddenly replaced byshiny white tongues

of snow.

On boat trips to the icebergs you might be lucky to experience the whales. The most common whale in Greenland is

the lesser rorqual which can grow to a length of ten metres.

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The Ice

Yes… but they keep melting

Do they play with building blocks in South Greenland...?

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Around year 1000, a ship sailed from Norway forGreenland, but was blown off course. These erring sailorsreturned and told about Vinland, which was later renamedNew Foundland. Finds unearthed in the 1960s have shown that Erik the Red’s son, Leif Eriksson, was the firstEuropean to reach the American continent some 500 yearsbefore Columbus.

The remains of the farms andchurches of the Norse are found

throughout South Greenland. The largegranite and sandstone blocks at the ruins havemany good stories to tell. The oldest is aboutErik the Red who was banished from Iceland in982. His flight from Iceland brought him to thelargest island in the world. He liked it here, andafter serving his sentence, he convinced hisIcelandic friends and acquaintances to accompa-ny him to “Greenland” and settle there.

You will understand why Erik called this coun-try Greenland as you stand beside his farmsteadin the settlement of Qassiarsuk. The green hills

undulate along the blue fjord as far as the eyecan see. Erik chose his view with care!

The farmstead itself was nothing to turn yournose up at either. It was high-ceilinged and veryspacious. See for yourself as you wander aboutthe reconstruction built to commemorate themillenary for Leif Eriksson’s discovery of Vinland.Beside the farmstead is the reconstruction of thechurch that Erik’s wife, Tjodhildur, convinced

Reconstructions of farmsand the first church inGreenland have been

built beside the ruins ofErik the Red’s farmstead.Here you can experience

how the Norse lived1000 years ago.

him to build.Back then, the climate was milder than it is today. All the same,

the life of a Norse was harsh. You will shiver as you stand in front ofthe cold walls in one of the more than 1000 ruins scattered acrossSouth Greenland, some of them in very desolate regions. The Norsewere not totally isolated, however. They engaged in lively tradewith Iceland and Norway. The Norse typically bought wood, metal,salt and flour which they paid for with ivory from the narwhal andwalrus. Our knowledge of the Norse comes from the ruins andarchaeological finds, as well as from the Icelandic sagas. We are notcertain why the Norse disappeared. By around year 1500 they weregone. Yet their history lives on throughout South Greenland.

Most of the numerous Norse ruins inSouth Greenland are freely accessible.

Yes… and they have for the past 1000 years

The Norse

Since the weather in South Greenland can change very quickly, it is always wise to be informed on the weather situation at thetourist office before setting out on your own.

How to get here:There are flights to Narsarsuaq Airport fromCopenhagen, Iceland and the rest of Greenland.The flying time from Copenhagen on Green-

landair is almost fivehours, while it takesthree hours on AirIceland from Iceland.Transport fromNarsarsuaq to the townsand settlements of SouthGreenland is by helicop-ter or boat. With theexception of cruise ships,

there are no boat connections from Europe orIceland to South Greenland.

Clothing:Whether it is winter, spring or summer, you are re-commended to bring clothing that follows thelayer-on-layer principle. The outermost layer shouldbe wind and waterproof. Since the sea temperaturein summer is only a few degrees Celsius, it is a goodidea to bring along gloves and cap for sea travel.Proper footgear is crucial in both winter and sum-mer, i.e. waterproof shoes or hiking boots withthickly treaded soles.

Climate:Greenland’s mildest climate is found in SouthGreenland where summer temperatures at the upperend of the fjords can get up to 15 to 20 degrees

Celsius. The temperature feels different and warmerthan in Europe, however, since the air in Greenlandis very dry.

Health Services:The towns of South Greenland have well-function-ing hospitals and dental clinics, while nurse stationsare located in Narsarsuaq and the settlements. Inthe event of acute illness or accidents, the medicalassistance provided is usually free of charge. You areadvised to bring your own medicine or othermedicaments for regular use, since special productsare not always available.

Currency:Danish currency is a valid means of payment, andthere are no import orexport restrictions oncash. The post officeprovides banking serv-ices in the towns andsettlements of SouthGreenland withoutbanks. Credit cardsare accepted at fair-sized shops and athotels and restaurants.

Travelling to South Greenland

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Does anything taste better onthe grill than a char that has

just fattened itself in the fjordsof South Greenland?

A helicopter trip tothe inland ice capis an unrivalledexperience.

Life in the SouthGreenland settle-ments has its veryown pace. If you arelooking for peace andquiet, sail on a pas-senger boat to a sett-lement and stay for aday or two. The sett-lements usually havea small shop that issupplied twice aweek with goodsfrom the nearesttown, and the shopalso functions as apost office. For bigger purchases,

just head back to the “big city”.Naturally, there is also a church, and in a few

places the schoolroom is located in one end of thechurch. The catechist performs the church serviceon Sunday and teaches the children on weekdays.Later, the children move to a boarding house forschool children in the nearest town and finish theirschooling there. Transport to and from the settle-ment is made by the family’s motor boats.

The small power plant hums quietly in the back-ground, because electricity is an obvious necessity inorder for inhabitants to keep up with life outside thesettlement via TV and radio. Since the modern

world has made its entry into the settlements, elec-tricity also powers the children’s PlayStations. Asettlement may have street lights, or it may not,because the smallest settlements often have onlyone street.

In the fjord settlements where the climate iswarmer, sheep farming and farming are commonwhile fishing and seal hunting dominate life in theoutermost settlements along the coast. This is whereguests come closest to what is commonly known asthe “real Greenland” where you are totally depend-ent on what nature has to offer.

The settlements vary in size from less than fortyinhabitants in Igaliku, to around 500 in AlluisupPaa, which also has a pretty little hotel. Accommodation inthe other settlementsconsists of youth hos-tels, cabins and, insome cases, schoolcamps. Inquire at thelocal tourist officeabout opportunities forsettlement holidaysand opportunities forgetting close to tran-quillity and silence.

The numerous South Greenland settlements arethe primary suppliers of the some 20,000 lambsprocessed at the slaughterhouse in Narsaq.Since this production covers only what is con-sumed in Greenland each year, you must cometo Greenland if you want to taste the lamb thatoriginates from a free-range life in the hills.

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Tasiussaq Sheep Farm confirms thatSouth Greenland is more than just snowand ice – and is actually quite green.

Settlements of South Greenland

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Since Narsarsuaq means “great plain”, it stands toreason that South Greenland’s international airportis located here. It was built back in 1941 by the USand was initially a military base. It did not changeover to civil traffic until 1959. Narsarsuaq is thejunction for air traffic in and out of SouthGreenland. In summer, there are several weeklyflights to Denmark and Iceland, while helicoptersand boats handle the further transport to towns andsettlements. Around 160people live in the airportarea, which also includes ahotel, youth hostel, groceryshop, café and nurse station.

The mountains surround-ing the “great plain” rise upto a height of 400 or 500metres. The inland ice capis some 9 kilometres away -3 or 4 hours on foot - and isa beautiful hike that alsopasses through the lush“flower valley”. The ice canalso be experienced by sailing to Qooroq Fjordwhere the boat sails very close to the glacier, whichoccasionally “discards” gigantic icebergs into thewater.

The harbour, some two kilometres from the air-port, offers fine opportunities for trying out yourangling skills and hopefully landing a silvery

char for dinner.Narsarsuaq offers a beautiful view of the Qassiarsuksheep farms on the other side of the fjord. Thegreen fields and slopes explain why Erik the Redchose the name Greenland. He settled at this veryspot in Qassiarsuk with his family in 985 andnamed the site Brattahlid. To this very day theruins from the Norse Era are clearly visible, as arethe elegant reconstructions of Erik’s farmstead andTjodhildur’s church.

Gravel roads connect Qassiarsuk with the sheepfarms in the area which also offer overnight accom-modation. Many stay at them during hiking trips,horseback rides and angling trips in the area.

Itilleq is one hour by boat from Narsarsuaq to thesouth-east. From here it is a six-kilometre walk ordrive to the settlement of Igaliku. The locality wasnamed Gardar by the Norse, and an episcopal resi-dence was founded here in 1126. The ruins of thecathedral and bishop’s palace have been renovatedin recentyears, andtoday consti-tute a beautifulmemorial toGreenland’sNorse Era.

Narsarsuaq

Founded in 1941 as a US military base. Population: 160.Travel routes: By aeroplane from Iceland, Copenhagen andthe rest of Greenland.

Narsarsuaq

Sitting here, you will discov-er a peace andtranquillity youhave neverknown before.

Founded in 1830 as a trading post under the authority of the Julianehåb Colony (today Qaqortoq)Population: 2,000 in the district Getting there: By helicopter or boat from thesurrounding towns or the Narsarsuaq Airport.

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Narsaq means“plain”. The townspreads out over alarge flat area thatends abruptly at thelarge mountains. It isa relatively youngtown that was firstincorporated in 1959.Since 1830 the locali-ty had functioned as atrading post underthe name

“Nordprøven”. Today, some 1,700 people live in thetown proper and some 370 are dispersed in the sur-rounding settlements and sheep farms.

Narsaq is the site of Greenland’s only slaughter-house where all Greenlandic lamb and reindeer areslaughtered. Eskimo Pels, Greenland’s oldest fur-making workshop, is located in Narsaq. The compa-ny sews a wide variety of sealskin products frommittens to furs. Greenland Ice Cap Productions,which crushes inland ice into ice cubes is also locat-ed in Narsaq. The raw materials are right outsidethe door. The business and industry community alsoconsists of a fish factory, sheep farming, a wool pro-cessing workshop, a potter’s workshop and severaloutfitters serving the tourist trade.

A varied selection of accommodation are avail-able in Narsaq. Hotel Inuili offers small hotel flatsand a view to the inland ice cap. Hotel Perlen is a

small, charming hotel, that also has a view of theinland ice. Cosy lodging is also available at HotelNiviarsiaq, a small guest house. There are twoyouth hostels – Narsaq Vandrehjem in the middleof the town with a splendid view and Narsaq FarmHouse, on the town outskirts.

Narsaq is the starting point for many excursionsand activities. Since the town is located close tothe inland ice cap, it is a good place of departure forboat trips to see the glaciers. The valley nearNarsaq is somewhat ofan eldorado for geolo-gy enthusiasts due tothe large concentra-tion of rare stones andminerals. As a matterof fact it is the onlyplace in the worldwhere many of themare found.

The landscapesaround Narsaq arevery attractive to hik-ers. There are abun-dant opportunities forboth short and longhikes. In and aroundNarsaq, there many particularly well-preserved historical memorials from the Norse and Eskimocultures to be experienced along the way.

Narsaq

Narsaq

The kayak is still part of the South Greenland culture.

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Qaqortoq means “the white”. It was founded in1775 and is today the largest town in SouthGreenland with more than 3,500 inhabitants. Ofthis number, 3,200 live in the town itself, while therest live in the three surrounding settlements, on

two reindeer farms and at13 sheep farms.

The town has severalfair-sized companies. Thetown’s shipyards buildsmall fibreglass cutters.Great Greenland purchas-es sealskins which it tansand sews into some of theworld’s most coveted furs.And Royal Greenlandkeeps supermarket freezersstocked with shrimp.

The town square withGreenland’s oldest fountain is situated close to theharbour where the fishermen arrive every day withthe day’s catch on board. The square is encircled bysome of the most well-preserved buildings from thecolonial era, the oldest of which were built morethan 200 years ago. Several of these buildings stillplay an important role in the town’s daily life whereold and new prosper side by side.

Throughout Qaqortoq you meet examples of theunique Scandinavian art project “Stone andPeople”. Twenty-four Scandinavian sculptors havecontributed pieces of art chiselled in granite thattransform the town into one big sculpture park.

Hotel Qaqortoq is the town’s only hotel, but youcan also spend the night at the Seamen’s Home, thefolk high school or the youth hostel, and dine atrestaurants, cafeterias and other establishments.

Many different excursions can originate inQaqortoq. You can sail to the hot springs to thesouth where you can bathe without feeling cold,even though you are at the 61° parallel. You canalso sail to the glaciers north-west of Narsaq, to theUpernaviarsuk agricultural research station or tothe well-preserved Hvalsø church ruin from the14th century.

Lastly, the beauti-ful area surroundingQaqortoq aboundswith hiking tours,both long and shortin duration.

Qaqortoq

Founded as the Julianehåb Colony in1775 and named after Juliane, the Queen Mother at the time. Population: 3,500 in the districtGetting there: By helicopter or boat fromthe surrounding towns or the NarsarsuaqAirport.

Qaqortoq

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Founded in 1799 as a trading post under theauthority of the Julianehåb Colony (todayQaqortoq)Population: 2,700 in the districtGetting there: By boat or helicopter from theNarsarsuaq Airport via Qaqortoq.

Nanortalik means “place of bears”. It is Greenland’ssouthernmost town with a district border extendingall the way to the east coast. Fishing and seal hunt-ing are the primary occupations for the 2,700inhabitants in the area, which besides the main

town includes five sett-lements and manysheep farms.

The most renownedfeature is theNanortalik area with its“skyscrapers” - the steeppeaks and sheer moun-tain sides lining

Tasermiut Fjord. Place names like Ketilfjeld orUlamertorsuaq are well known to most of theworld’s rock and mountain climbers. The mountainsof this area are just as challenging as the mostrugged Alps and are for experienced climbers only.Although many mountain climbers challenge themevery year, many of the peaks are still unconquered.

It is somewhat easier to capture the town’s twosmall-sized hotels, of which one is located in thecharming neighbourhood near the old harbour. This is also the site of the town’s youth hostel andmuseum alongside old wooden buildings from thecolonial era.

Among other items, the museum has replicas of

16th century Norse clothing found during excava-tions at Herjolfsnæs. The clothing lay in permafrostfor several centuries and was therefore in exceed-ingly good condition.

In general, the area abounds with historic memo-rials. The Norse ruins are thickly clustered in thelandscape, and you can see the remains of farm-steads and convents. Later, the German HernnhutMission arrived and left its mark on the district.Today, there is a church and several well-keptbuildings from this period at Alluitsoq/Lichtenau.

Many excursions are possible around Nanortalik.One of them is amagnificent tour inwhich you first sail,and then hike to thelush Qinngua Valley.Here you will findGreenland’s onlynatural forest. Theseal hunters move tothe outermost islandsin spring and autumnto hunt seals, because the migratory route of thehooded seals passes right by. In spite of the placename, bears seldom appear, but occasionally theyfloat by on ice floes from the east coast in earlysummer.

Nanortalik

Nanortalik

Tourist Information South Greenland, P.O.Box 45, DK-3923 Narsarsuaq, Tel.: +299 66 53 01, Fax:+299 66 53 02, E-mail: south.tourist@greennet.glNarsaq Tourist Office, P.O.Box 148, DK-3921 Narsaq, Tel.: +299 66 13 25, Fax: +299 66 13 94, E-mail: narsaq.tourist.office@greennet.gl

Qaqortoq Turistforening, P.O.Box 128, DK-3920 Qaqortoq, Tel.: +299 64 24 44, Fax: +299 64 24 95, E-mail: qaqtourist@greennet.glNanortalik Tourism Service, P.O.Box 43, DK-3922 Nanortalik, Tel./ Fax: +299 61 36 33, E-mail: nanortalik@greennet.gl

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