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Special Finishes To Garment – AnOverview

By : Tanveer Malik and Shivendra Parmar 

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Special Finishes To Garment – An Overview

By: Tanveer Malik and Shivendra Parmar 

Department of Textile TechnologyShri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science

Baroli (Indore - Sanwer Road), Dist: Indore (M.P) Pin-453331

E-mail: [email protected], [email protected]  

INTRODUCTION:

Unless any product is characterized by value addition it is now impossible to survive in thishighly competitive world market. Processing is important to make a usable but finishing gives valueaddition to it. It makes garments attractive, comfortable & finishing can incorporate desirableproperties. Finishing is the heart of textile processing.

Value addition = {(Technology) + (Innovation)} x Quality

Past are the days of traditional and conventional fabrics, which are super fed by fabrics withmulti-functional finishes. Indeed, days are now of research and development of a huge spectrum of 

various advancements in fabric finishes in order to project world class fabric in the world class marketat the most competitive rates .a range of new fabric finishes need to developed and manufacturedwhich will give an innovative edge to the textile sector in various applications. In addition to thespecialty we are unique for certain special application and more emphasis should be laid on thederivation of various textile finishes with numerous features and characteristics which should bemerge for multifold applications to create “all in one universal application”.

Set against following background the driving forces for change in finishing of fabric have beenconsidered to be the need for competitive strategy that utilizes;

• Chemical compatibility to provide one-shot multifunctional finishes.• Cost reduction through process integration and minimizing the consumption of all utilities.• More environmentally friendly and application method.• Cost reduction through minimization of effluent treatment cost.

• Improve process control, monitoring and automation.• Greater innovation in chemical finishes.• Quick response through right-first-time, right-on –time, right-every-time finishing.

In this way, it should be possible for finishing department to satisfy the aesthetic andfunctional performance demands of customers, stimulate the market through the innovation to creategreater novelty and variety and maintain a technical and a cost-competitive edge, while providingsatisfactory solution to the environmental issues.

Finishing of textile fabric is carried out to increase attractiveness and/or serviceability of thefabric. Different finishing treatments are available to get various effects, which add value to the basictextile material. The domestic readymade garment sector is booming, and garment processing hasemerged as one of the important production routes towards meeting quick changing demands of thefashion market. In this article discussed various special finishes to garment.

METHOD OF APPLICATION:

 There are two methods of garment finishing.• Dip process.• Tumbling process.

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Dip process: -

• Dip the garment inside out in finishing chemical keeping MLR 1:5. Washing machine may beused.

• Rotate the garment for 20 min.• Hydro extract the garment to 70 to 80% pick up.• Tumble dry at 70

0C to moisture content 10—12 %.

• Turn the garment right side out.• Iron/steam press the garment to set the creases at desired places.• Cure at 150—160 0 C• 

Tumble method: -

In this process the garment are placed (inside out) into a machine with sealed (not perforated)cylinder and application of recipe by either pumping or spraying. The drum is turned for 20 min thereshould not be excessive dripping of chemicals from the garment. If so more tumbling time is allowed. This method is being used more and more due to the fact that there is no wastage of chemicals. Aftersaturation the garments are hydro extracted tumble dry at 70

0C to 10—20 % pick up moisture

content. The iron and steam press the garments to remove/set creases. Cure at 150—160 0 C for 8—10 min.

Important features: -

• MLR should not be less than 1: 0.85 for the garment weighing 600 gm and 1:1 for thoseweighing more than 600 gm.

• Minimum time of tumbling should be 20 min.• Tumble rotation speed 20—30 rpm.• Tumble drying temp. Should not be more than 70 0 C.• Moisture retention after drying should be 10—12%.

VARIOUS SPECIAL FINISHES APPLIED TO THE GARMENTS:

1. BIOLOGICAL FINISHES: -

1.1 Bio-polishing: -

 To produce this effect cellulose enzymes were introduced. The regular acid acting cellulosesproduced following effects:

• More cutting• Color loss• Prone to contour patches• Bluish heavy effect• High back staining• Economical

However, the desire was for enzyme, which was economical as acid cellulose and propertieslike the neutral acting celluloses. To achieve this, Genetically Modified enzymes were produced,called GMO's (Genetically Modified Organisms). It is known that enzymes have various activities(Endoglucanase I, II; etc.) Exoglucanase, cello-biohydrolase (CBH II) etc. With the advent of geneticengineering it is now possible to increase or suppress one or more of these activities to achieve tailormade results. The effectiveness of the catalytic core (to hydrolyse glycosidic linkages) dependsgreatly on the absorption by the CBD tail. When tightly bound to the substrate, certainendoglucanases disturb the crystalline structure and induces the various properties like fading,defibrillation, etc. as a result of the mechano-chemical effect. The G-zyme HCL and G-zyme FF seriesare products designed for good defibrillation but cuts less colour. The less colour loss is due to thefact that the dye is mostly reacted or embedded in the amorphous regions and the G-zyme HCL actsmostly in the crystalline regions.

Enzymes are naturally occurring proteins that are capable of catalyzing specific chemicalreactions. Because they only catalyze the reactions and are not consumed, only a small quantity isneeded. Cellulase enzymes are proteins that are capable of hydrolyzing (degrading) cellulose. Twokinds of cellulase are currently available: "acid cellulases" which exhibit the most activity in acid pHrange of 4.5 to 5.5 and "neutral cellulases" that are active in the 5.5 to 8.0 pH range. Both enzymes

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are active within an optimal temperature range of about 45oC to 60

oC. After the hydrolysis of cellulosic

fibers to the desired extent, changing the temperature or pH level can deactivate the enzyme.Because the enzymes are natural proteins, readily biodegradable, they are a favorable alternative tomany finishing chemicals and resins that are currently used.

 The bio-polishing process targets the removal of the small fiber ends protruding from the yarnsurface and thereby reduces the hairiness or fuzz of the fabrics. The hydrolysis action of the enzymeweakens the protruding fibers to the extent that a small physical abrasion force is sufficient to breakand remove them. Bio polishing can be accomplished at any time during wet processing but is mostconvenient performed after bleaching.

It can be done in both continuous or batch processes. However, continuous processes

require some incubation time for enzymatic degradation to take place. Removing the fuzz makes thecolor brighter, the fabric texture more obvious, and reduces pilling. Unfortunately, the treatment alsoreduces the fabric strength. Smoother yarns also increase the fabric softness, appearance and feel.Since it is an additional process, the bio-polished garments may cost slightly more. Next time you buyapparel, look for the label "Bio-Polished."

1.2 Denim Bleaching: -

Laccases enzymes are used to get outstanding contrast look on denim fabrics. They alsoeliminate all the negative effects of the indigo dye redeposition at the same time reducing the time of the process necessary to achieve a highly abraded look. Various effects are obtained on denimfabrics using Laccases.

2 PROTECTIVE FINISHES: -

2.1 Insect Repellent Finishing: -

An ANTIMO MGL a menthoglycol is a natural insect repellent active ingredient, derived fromlemon eucalyptus, which is a natural and renewable source. Testing of Antimos MGL with amoderately aggressive cage population of Aedes aegypti mosquitoes resulted in no bites up to atleast 4 hours. This indicates that the products has unusual repellency

2.2 Antibacterial Finishing: -

Microbes are minute organisms, which can be most dangerous for creating harm to ourlifestyle in different ways. So to make the environment healthy, hygienic and fresh, it becomes veryimportant to have the control over growth of the microbes and for these the garments / fabrics shouldbe treated with some specialty chemicals, which can restrict the growth of these microorganisms.

Antimicrobial finishing is one of the special types of finishing given to the textiles where the chances of bacterial growth are high and the safety is paramount.

Biquanides, phenols and their derivatives, isothiazolones, metals, ammonium compounds andalcohols serve as anti-bacterial agents in finishing recipe. Some other important chemicals are Zeolite(inorganic compound of sodium aluminose ), Triclosan ( a phenolic derivative), Chitin (extracted fromshells of crabs and shrimps) and Quarternary ammonium compounds.

Action of Antimicrobial finish: -

Anti-microbial treatment on the undergarments controls the growth of microbes on it, whichwill in turn control the above effects.

Characteristics: -

• This type of finishing inhibits the growth of microbes on the surface of the fabric.

• Maintains hygiene and freshness, stopsbad odour.

• Controls or eliminates microbial staining.• Improves life of the articles wherever it is

applied.• Improves hand of most of the fabric.• Eliminates the chances of disease

transmission.

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Effective on any substrate like cellulose, synthetics as well as their blends and any surfaceother than textiles.

Antibacterial chemicals: -

Chemical nature Composition (gpl)

Na salt of a hetrocyclic compound 20

 Aq. Sol. Of Na-o-phenylphenate 1

 An organic compound containing nitrogenwith No halogen or heavy metal salt

40

Combination of hetrocylic organiccompounds

80

Derivatives of benzimidazole 100

3 FUNCTIONAL FINISHES: -

3.1 Cool Finish (Snocool): -

When temperature rises, we tend to sweat. This is a naturalreaction of our body to maintain the temperature around 97°F.Thesweat when evaporates, takes along with it heat equivalent to heatof evaporation of water, thereby maintaining the temperature of thebody. The Snocool finish uses the moisture management route i.e.it will enhance the natural phenomenon of sweat evaporation. Thisfinish absorbs and dissipates sweat evenly throughout and thusgives a cool feeling to the wearer.

Characteristics: -

• Garments finished with Snocool produces a cool effect.• the finish has two fold effect, it reflects light (special polymer) and transfers moisture fasterthan normal from body to fabric and finally to the atmosphere.• these finishing agents can be manufactured with or without fragrance.

3.2 Thermocat Finishing: -

• A finishing agent for producing heat retaining effect.• This type of finishing when applied to the fabric keeps it warm.• Produces heat retaining effect due to infrared radiation owing to its porosity.• Especially suitable for 100% cellulose and its blends.

3.3 UV Protective Finish: -

 The protection offered by UV cutting fabrics is expressed in terms of UV protection factor(UPF) or sun protection factor (SPF), which are equivalent to the user. UPF of 40 for a garmentmeans the wearer can stay 40 times longer in the sun before skin reddening (erythema) sets in. otherwords if skin reddens in 15 minutes without UV cutting garment, the same level of reddening wouldtake 10 hours, when UV cutting garment is worn. This means that UPF is a ratio of the time taken for

skin reddings with and without protection.

Some facts and fi gure about UV cutting fabrics:

Cotton and silk display a high degree of UV transmission, hence the wearer needs more UVprotection wool displays a low degree of UV transmission., hence the wearer may not need extra UVprotection polyester fiber absorb UV rays by virtue of its chemical nature and the de-lust rant which itcontains, hence the wearer may not need protection from UV.

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Cotton fabric with porosity higher than 5% cannot have UPF of >20, despite the application of a UV absorber. If fabric porosity is too high, the UV absorber will not be effective even if applied inhigh concentration.

• For textiles needing UPF of 40+, the porosity must be <2%.• Thicker textile materials have higher UPF• Textiles treated with OBA show high UPF• Textile dyed in dark shades display higher UPF• UPF drops at least by half when fabric is stretched by say 10%• UV absorbers are applied in higher than required dosages to minimize the risk of loosing UV

protection when the garments get wet.

 J apanese have though of “endless effect” meaning the “value-addition” to last the life of a textilematerial is mixed into the fiber core at the melt spinning process. This can absorb UV rays (UV cuteffect) and also can reflect visible rays (heat shielding effect).

Characteristics: -

A specialty finishes for protecting the fabric from UV radiation. P rotects human's underlyingtissues from UV radiation. Protects against short wavelength radiation i.e. from 100 - 400 nm, Non-yellowing. Should be applied during dyeing under a reductive process Applicable by exhaust as wellas padding method.

3.4 Flame Retardant Finish: -

Flame retardant finishing is not any finish used for textiles, but it is the need of an hour. The

finished material is used not only to produce garments but carpets, curtains, etc. which are used inpublic places like hotels, theatres etc. The effective flame proofing of the materials used in theseareas are of paramount importance.

Characteristics: -

Can withstand at least 50 washings. It also exhibits excellent fastness to dry cleaning usingchlorinated solvents. Its application practically does not cause yellowing and modifies the handle of the articles. It is recommended to apply Flame shield CV 20 with thermosetting resins. Any change of the mechanical resistance of the articles treated with Flame shield CV 20 is generally low. However,the simultaneous use of thermosetting resins may result in an important loss of the strength, up to20% of the initial value. In such cases, the use of polyethylene emulsion allows a significantminimization of the tensile strength loss.

3.5 Peach Skin Effect: -

In classical finishing of lyocell, peach skin effects are produced in rope form using Airflowsand Air tumblers. Alternatives are produced in open - width finishing with special emery finishes e.g.emery papers coated with diamond dust are recommended which imitate effects comparable with theclassical method.

Apart from Peach Skin effects, various finishes can naturally be applied to fabrics of LenzingLyocell such as calendaring, embossed effects, crepe or other special effects. With a liquor ratio of 1:12 to 1:15, the preventive agent against running creases, the dispersing agent, acetic acid andsodium acetate (0.5 gpl) are added initially. It is necessary to choose preventive agents againstrunning crease and dispersing agents that do not hinder the activity of the selected enzyme(cellulose). The liquor is heated to the given optimum temperature (45 - 60°C) .The pH is adjustedwith acetic acid (pH 5.5 - 4.5) followed by the addition of enzyme.

Enzymatic treatment: (Machine: Thies Roto Stream)

Fibrolube HML: - 3.0 - 4.0 gplKleerix CR: - 0.5 - 1.0 gplGenecel GLA: - 2.0 - 3.0 gpl

pH is adjusted to 5 with acetic acid and sodium acetate. Fabric is treated at 60°C for 60 min.Enzyme activity is inhibited by heating up to 85°C. Warm and cold rinsing is finaly given to the fabric.

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3.6 AquaTex Finish: -

 Traditional finishing processes for these fabrics usually require the addition of chemicals, inreality; however, these chemical compounds cause a shortening of the life span of such a fabric, itsperformance, and prohibit the possibility of recycling, and frequently involve significantly higheradditional expenses for wastewater treatments.

 The AquaTex system or for the enhancement of woven and some knit fabrics has beendeveloped In lieu of these chemicals, which frequently are environmentally undesirable, the AquaTexsystem only uses regular water at ambient temperature to achieve acceptability of such fabrics in thetrade and actually make them more marketable.

Main advantages of the aqua-tex system: -

• Increased thickness and density - the weave construction can usually be reducedsignificantly - and (he physical properties remain the same or actually improve.

• Softness - the fabric usually does not need any additional processes to obtain this property.• Improvement In abrasion resistance - up to 50 % higher.• A permanent mini-velourcan be obtained in fabrics, which have spun weft or warp yarns.• The fabric surface is very clean.• Improved definition and clarity of the design and the colors.• Reduced or eliminated use of environmentally harmful chemicals.• More cost effective - elimination of traditional finishing processes.

3.7 Feather touch & u ltra soft touch: -

Feather touch & Ultra soft touch finishes are commercial names produced by treating withAmino, carboxy, or Epoxy Silicones alone or in successive treatments. Amino Silicones Extensivelyavailable in market are widely used in softening. They impart excellent softness With Bouncinesswhen used in concentration 2.5 –3% owf in garment finishing. Yellowing and some level of hydrophobicity are the disadvantages. Epoxy silicones, which are most compatible with most of theother finishing chemicals, Impart softness without yellowing and improved fabric strength. They play avital role in Wrinkle free finishes by imparting improved tear strength.

3.8 Rubbery touch: -

Rubber latex provide glossy, crispy handle with characteristic rubbery effect, which aredurable. This effect gaining much more importance among the youngsters. In leather finish they areapplied as final finish treatments after enzyme or stone wash or after mechanical abrasion andenzyme treatments. Many catching names such as “Bio polished &rubbery touch finish”, enzyme Bio

polish & rubbery touch finish”, are quite common.

Preparation and application of emulsions: -

For finishing of textiles it is necessary to prepare aqueous baths with emulsions ormicro- emulsions of silicone softener. The advantage of micro-emulsions is their thermodynamicstability and the drawbacks are higher fraction of surfactants and lowering of softness effect. Usingnon-ionic surfactants it is possible to prepare stable dilute micro-emulsions with more than 40%strength. The softness produced by micro-emulsions is similar to that of solvent solution. Duringapplication on jets it is necessary to control the liquor ratio as well as temperature and shear forces, toprevent the separation and silicone oil and formation of spots. The finishing of synthetics is lesssensitive than that of cotton.

3.9 Non-stick Teflon spray: -

 This is anew generation multipurpose lubricant based on poly tetra fluoro ethylene (PTFE). In servicethis lubricant forms a tenacious non-stick coating of the fluoro-polymer, which does not allow dirt anddust to settle on the textile surface. This makes the product ideal for cement plants, textile mills andindustries etc. where constant flow of dust and contaminants affect the conventional lubricants.

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3.10 Wrinkle free finishes: -

Easy care finish producing cross-linking agent to avoid crease formation. It gives improveddimensional stability to the garments. But crease recovery property should with stand for repeatedwashes.They must suitable for cotton, P/C,P/V, blended fabric.

3.11 Water repellent f inishes: -

Water and stain resistant finishes on fabric has gained considerable popularity amongstyoungsters Water resistant finishes can be produced using Metal salts paraffin dispersion, Polysilioxanes, Fluorocarbons, These auxiliaries impart hydrophobic character; and of the above fluorocarbon polymers are extensively used in fabric finishing. They form a film where the fluorocarbonredials are perpendicular to the fiber axis and prevent wetting of the fiber surface. Their highhydrophobic & oleo phobic action is explained by the extremely low interfacial tension of fluorocarbonchain towards all chemical compounds. In actual practice fabrics are bio polished first with enzyme

and fluorocarbons are applied either by spray method or dip method and fabrics are finally cured at1500C for 10 minutes.

Fluorochemicals are organic compounds consisting of per fluorinated carbon chain. This is afilm former that reduces the surface energy of a substrate, thereby providing one or more of thefollowing properties:

• Oil Repellency• Soil Resistance• Water Repellency

How do fluorocarbons affect the surface tension?

Fluorocarbon from a thin film around the fiber, thus providing the fiber with a lower surface

tension, is lower than most liquids. Finishing the fabric with Hydroguard makes the fabric sufficientlywater repellent so that it can imitate the lotus leaf. Hydroguard is a special fluoro polymermanufactured by processes that do not produce any by-product.

3.12 Water resistant breathable finish : -

Present trend is to impart water-repellency without affectingwater vapor permeability of fabric and garments for use in out dooractivities; weather-clothing etc. improving the transpiration rate of perspiration through the textile material is particularly important insports activities where the relative metabolic rate is high. Waterdroplets but allow the escape of water vapor. Such types of garmentsare designed for sports-wear, tracksuits, clothing for mountaineeringetc.

 The chemicals consist of Quaternary ammonium Salt with thepyridine Base and a compound is formed with cellulose in thepresence of sodium acetate.

The process sequence employed is pad –Dry –Cure-Soap-Rinse

Pad - water repellent chemicalDrying - 60-70

0C

Curing - 1200C for 2-3 mins.

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3.13 Soil release and stain release finish: -

Soil release and stain release and stain release finishes are particularly important whereleisure or sports are activities may lead to greeter incidence of soiling and staining. Another factor isthe trend towards lower temperature washing of garments where the removal of persistent soil andstain removal becomes more problematic.

On this principle three major groups of finishes are developed.

• Finishes containing carboxylic groups.• Finishes containing oxy ethylene and/ or hydroxyl groups.

4. WASH DOWN OR BREAK IN LOOKS: -

Wash down effects can be achieved by a variety of garment processing techniques which aremainly dependent on physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface dye there by producingdifferent wash down or break-in looks. Garment dyed with indigo, pigments, reactive, vats, arewashed in garment washing machine machines to affect a look to dyed fabrics. In garment washingthe seams, waistband, pockets, cuffs, etc develop a contour, which can be obtained by washing ingarment from only.

Washing down of garments is the latest development in fashion technology. Washing bringsout special effects changing the feel and look of garments. Five good reasons can be attributed forwashing the garments.

• To influence physical properties such as softness, handle, drape or fall , absorbency, creasingetc.

• To influence appearance by altering the nature of yarn of fabric or lusture.To create shrinkage& effects of shrinkage like puckering of garments.To create abrasion & related effects.

• To create a trend in fashion with consistent quality & brand image with range of finishes.

4.1 Stone wash: -

Pre-washed, abraded, faded either regular or irregular looks are produced by subjecting thedyed garments to severe washing treatments commonly known as stone wash garments.

In order to accelerate the garment wash effect and to give garments an even more uniqueappearance and softer hand, abrasive stones were introduced to the wash bath. A variety of naturalsynthetic stones are available for stonewashing with perhaps the most widely used being Pumice orvolcanic rock. As the stones are used, they slowly disintegrate, reducing the severity of the stonewasheffect over a period of time. The stones not only abrade the fabric but also gradually corrode the

inside of the rotary drum. A machine used for stonewashing should not be used to dye when abrasionwould be detrimental to the fabric.

Procedure: -

• Load stones into machine.• Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 - 3.0 part weight

stones part weight garments).• Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent. Liquor ratio 5-8:

1.• Rinse.• Refill and tumble with stones 30 to 90 minutes, depending upon

desired effect. Liquor ratio 5-8: 1 at 50-70C. Scouring additives canalso be used.

• Drain. Separate garments from stones (garments can be transferredto another machine). Rinse.

• Apply softener (garments can be transferred to another machine forsoftening).

• Extract and unload.• De-stone and tumble dry. Press, if required.

Softeners and/or lubricants can be added during steps three and five to reduce creasing potential.Steps 8, 9, and 10 may vary depending upon individual mill arrangement

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4.2 Stone wash with chlorine: -

By incorporating chlorine in the stonewash procedure, a col or reduction of the indigo (orother chlorine sensitive dyestuff) is obtained. It is very important that any residual chlorine be removedbefore drying to prevent fiber degradation. This is accomplished by using an antichlor step withsodium bisulfite or hydrogen peroxide.

Procedure: -

• Load stones into machine.• Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 - 3.0 part weight stones: 1 part garments).

Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent (liquor ratio approximately 10: 1). Rinse.• Refill and add sodium or calcium hypochlorite.• Heat to 55

0C.

• Tumble 15 minutes.• Add second portion of sodium or calcium hypochlorite.• Tumble 15 minutes Maintaining temperature of 55

0C.

• Drain.• Rinse well.• Antichlor with sodium bisulfite or hydrogen peroxide.• Drain.• Separate garments from stones (garments can be transferred to another machine). Rinse

well.• Apply softener.• Extract and unload and De-stone and tumble dry.

• Press, if required.

Amount of sodium or calcium hypochlorite required will vary depending upon desired level of bleach down and the sensitivity of the color to chlorine. Each addition can range from 0.075% to0.225% available chlorine. pH should be kept above 9.0, preferably 10.5-11.0. This is accomplishedwith the addition of soda ash with each addition of hypochlorite.

4.3 Ice wash: -

Either by accident or experimentation, a method was developed in which stones are used asa vehicle to deposit a chemical on garments to strip the colour. This surface deposit of chemicalremoves the color only on the outer surface of the garment and produces a frosted appearance.Indigo and selected Sulphur dyes are currently the most candidates for this procedure

.Procedure:

• Soak stones in solutions of potassium permanganate for 1-2 hours. Concentrations rangingfrom 1.5% to 5% are being used commercially. (5% to 10% NaOCl can be substituted.)

• Stones should be drained of excess liquor. This can be accomplished by placing stones in netor mesh fabric prior to soaking. Then the stones can be removed and the excess drained off.Another alternative is to place the stones in a rotary tumble machine along with “waste” fabricand tumbling for several minutes to remove the excess solution. A third alternative is to useany number of the pre-soaked stones or materials available from suppliers. These areavailable in many different shapes with varying levels of chemical and other additives thatproduce different effects. Trials should be conducted to determine thee best method forachieving desired effects.

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• Place stones and garments in machine (garments should be scoured and/or desized and dryor slightly damp).

• Tumble for 10-30 minutes or until desired effects are achieved. Results are dependent upondyestuff, fabric, and concentration of chemicals, stones, additives, and equipment.

• In some cases, the stones can be reused for another load before re-soaking, depending upontheir porosity. It is advantageous to transfer the garments to another machine for washing,minimizing the number of machines used for the corrosive process of ice washing.

• If potassium permanganate is used, manganese dioxide will form (a brown/orange color)and must be removed by treatment with sodium bisulfite, hydroxylamine sulfate, or acidifiedhydrogen peroxide as the reducing agent. Fill the machine with water and add 1-5gpl of thereducing agent. Heat to 50c and run for 20 minutes. The process is normally repeated twiceto ensure complete removal of the manganese dioxide. When sodium hypochlorite is used the

residual chlorine should be removed with sodium bisulfite or hydrogen peroxide. Adding jeansto machine already charged with after wash chemicals will increase contrast.

• Rinse well.• Repeat step 6 if necessary.• Apply softener.• Tumble dry.• Press, if required.

4.4 Cellulase wash: -

Cellulase enzymes have gained acceptance inthe garment wash industry as a means to achieve awash down appearance without the use of stones orwith reduced quantities of stones. These enzymes aredifferent from alpha amylase enzymes used for starchremoval in that they are selective only to the celluloseand will not degrade starch. Under certain conditions,their ability to react with cellulose (cotton) will result insurface fiber removal (weight loss). This will give thegarments a washed appearance and soft hand.

Procedure: -

• Load stones in machine (normally 0.5-2 part weight stones: 1 part weight garments) if applicable.

• Load garments.• Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.• Rinse•

Add cellulase enzyme (amount, pH, temp. and cycle time dependent upon type of fabric anddesired effects; manufacturer’s recommendations should be followed.)• Adjust pH as recommended.• Tumble 30-90 minutes.• Drain• Rinse well ( 70

oC)

• Drain• Rinse well ( 70

oC)

• Drain. Separate garments from stones if used (garments can be transferred to anothermachine.)

• Apply softener.• Extract and unload.• De-stone and tumble dry.• Press, if required.

After step 7, chlorine bleach may be used as described in stone wash with chlorine. These are the two machines, which are used for garment steaming and stretching.

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6. OZONE FADING IN DENIM FINISHING:-

With finishes a hot concept, garmentmanufacturers and finishing units are innovating andexperimenting with new techniques to get catchyfinishes. Ozone fading in denims provides an interestinglook to the garment. However, the procedure andmethods to be adopted need to be carefully understood.

One of the key noxious by-products of urbanphotochemistry is ozone and this can reachdangerously high levels of 0.5 ppm. In the presence of 

UV light, there is an interaction between thehydrocarbons , oxides of nitrogen and oxygen thatcauses release of ozone (in addition to othercompounds). The release is during the day time due topresence of sunlight.

Indigo dyestuff tends to fade or turn yellow dueto ozone reaction. Ozone is present in atmosphere inmost industrially active and urban dwellings and isformed in the presence of sunlight or UV light. Thelevels of ozone can reach dangerous levels of O.5 ppmand the deteriorating effect it has on denim apparel (particularly that stored in retail shelves) ispractically irreversible.

 The fading rate of indigo dyestuff is dependent on

(a) The position of the dye in the fibre(b) Solubility and diffusion of ozone within the fibre and(c) Absorption of ozone on the surface of the fibre.

7. MICRO ENCAPSULATION FINISHES:

Microcapsule: In simple terms, “a miniature container that protects its contents fromevaporation, oxidation and contamination until its release is triggered by gentle rubbing or shaking”during encapsulation, tiny droplets of benefit-laden products such as moisturizers, fragrances,deodorizers, vitamins, or repellants are wrapped with a protective coating to form a capsule.

 The micro encapsulation of liquid, non-water soluble substances is one of our areas of high-

tech specialism. This involves “packaging” the substances in microscopically small capsules to sealthem in hermetically, thereby preserving them.

Depending on the application, we can provide capsule diameters from 1 µ. The contents canbe released in a controlled way by mechanical action, such as rubbing, pressing, cutting or scratching.

Microcapsules without silver nanotreatment & with silver nano treatment

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8. FRAGRANCE FINISHES:

 These are microencapsulated formulations of various fragrances like musk, pineapple, rose,lavender, jasmine, lemon, peppermint etc. which are applied on the fabric with the help of a binder. They impart fragrance when applied in this fashion.

Much of work is concerned with the microencapsulation of fragrance oils, e.g. perfumes andaromatics. The FOLCOScent®brand offers a wide range of technically mature products for scentmarketing activities.

Bayer chemicals, a division of Germany-based Bayer AG, recently introduced Bayscent®microencapsulated aromatherapy products to the marketplace. The product features fragrances of Bayscent Neutralizer enclosed in a patented polyurethane microcapsule largely impermeable todiffusion. Fragrances range from fruity to flowery, while the neutralizer is designed to eliminateunpleasant odors.

 Textile problem areas subjected to a high degree of stress in treaking mountaineering bilinggear or sportswear, such as shoulders, knees and elbows, can be equipped with special more wearresistant fluorocarbon types.

Very soft fluorine polymers are available for woven microfibre fabrics which are very sensitiveto harshness of handle due to finishing.

 The polymer is modified with specially soft monomer components which have a so called“hinge action” in such a way that the film which these FC polymers form on the fiber is very soft.

9. HIGH “WASH PERMANENT” FC POLYMERS:

Highly cross-linked FC polymers are suitable for distinctive effects and permanence towashing, particularly on synthetic materials. These FC polymer modifications which have long been

used in the medical protection textiles field are now also used in the equipment field, as for example inmotor cycling clothing.

 The high degree of permanence is produced by incorporating additional reactive groups in thepolymer, and the co-responsibility often interrelated effect amplifier

.LAD FC polymer:

LAD is the English term for “Laundry Air Dry”.

 The effect in the case of a fabric finished with an LAD product is generated simply by air drying. Inaddition to more optimum film formation, the combination of fluoroacrylate and effect amplifier bringsabout fluorine side chain stabilization by target produced stabilizing forces during the washingprocess.

 The stabilization reduces fluorine side chain disorientation. While the oil water and dirtrepellant properties are retained over the long term even without intermediate heat treatment.

In addition to the above mentioned effect promoting properties, the effect amplifier has highdegrees of permanence-promoting reactivity, which already has a complete effect at very low curingtemperature.

 The technological performance of functional outdoor and active sports wear is considerably improvedby fluorocarbon finishing.

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10. RESIN LESS SHRINK PROOF FINISH-CELTOPIA

A new shrink-proof process for cellulose clothing material such as cotton or rayon fabrics hasbeen developed. The distinguishing feature of the new process is the achievement of remarkableproperties through a physiochemical approach without using any chemical agent such as resin.

 There is a crystal conversion from Cellulose I to Cellulose III by liquid ammonia treatment andreconversion to Cellulose I on hot water treatment. The degree of this crystal conversion andreconversion is proportional to its treatment temperature and time.

In other words, cellulose fiber can swell sufficiently through ammonia liquor treatment and atthe same time there is crystal conversion from I to III. When hot water treatment is carried out, thecrystal reconverts from III to I, but this time without changing the shape of the fiber. These changesoccur in the crystalline and non-crystalline region both and hence the whole structure gets stabilizedand no deformation due to water absorption will occur afterwards.

 Thus, good crease recovery and wash-n-wear properties are achieved. It is easy to pleatduring ironing so even tailor-made shirts can be finished.

Further if pleats and creases are added before hot water treatment, permanent durable pressfinish is obtained. In addition to all these effects, quick property is also achieved in Celtopia finishedfabric.

Celtopia as a multi-funct ional finish:

 The features of Celtopia can be summarized as follows:

1. Resin-like shrink-proofing without resin.2. Durable crease without resin.3. Possible to wash Rayon and Cupro with water.4. Less occurrence of skin irritation due to pure cellulose.5. A fresh feel thanks to the high-level of water and moisture absorbency.6. Additional quick-dryness.7. Environmentally friendly.

11. EXTRAORDINARY FINISHES:

11.1 Fabric with pulling power:

A new finish has been developed that involves the fabric to be impregnated with pheromones,which are said to attract the members of opposite sex. These are so-called first-shirt and give itswearers and advantage over their rivals. Pheromones are hormone based scents that arouse thesenses of person in vicinity.

11.2 AQUA FINISH:

Uniquely finishes woven fabrics have been produced with hydro entanglement finishing. Theprinciple involved is that the amount of bonding in the fabric is directly related to the energy impartedto the cloth.

 The basic process requires the application of high pressure water jets in the form of a curtainon the woven or knitted fabric. The hydraulic energy causes in the cloth to bulk and expand andindividual fibers to entangle. The resultant fabric is softer, supple with better drape and durability.

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A double sided surface is produced, on the water entry side, the projecting fiber ends arefinished into fabric i.e. this side becomes smoother while on the water exit side, small fiber endsprotrude, producing a thin pile and thus a fleece like effect is obtained.

 The uniqueness of finish is that it is entirely “chemical free” so that there are no effluents inthe water stream. The water used for finishing is the standard potable water with special treatment.

11.3 FLOCK FINISH:

Flock is short pieces of monofilament i.e. short fiber material made of viscose, polyamide,polyacrylonitrile, acetate or natural fibers. Even metal flock exists like Aluminum, brass or bronze.Flock adhesive is of three types:

• Thermoplastics (PVA, PVC) and copolymerisates (Acrylic acid)• Duroplastics (Phenolic resins)• Elastomers (polyurethane)

Following are the steps of flock finishing:

• Application of adhesive• Flock application by either of three ways: mechanical, pneumatic or electrostatic.• Drying at 70 fro 3-5 min.• Final treatment: removal of excess flock by mech. Suction unit.

 The finish is used for inexpensive production of high quality suede, velvet, velour or imitation foreffects.

11.4 Leather finishing

Polyurethane softeners provide an elastic handle and produce characteristic rubbery handlewhich are durable. Softeners based on special reactive polyurethane are marketed by blocking thereactive iso-cyanate groups to ensure adequate storage stability. They are used in conc. Of 2.5%o.w.f. enzyme wash is given prior to the application of polyurethane softener which are generallyapplied on the fabrics dyed other than indigo.

12. PLASMA FINISHING:

 The concept of green production has led to advance alternative environmental friendlyfinishing technique such as plasma treatment. Chemically reactive plasma discharges have beenused in various industrial sectors to modify the surface properties of material for many years, and

recently this technique has been further exploited to the textile field. Plasma treatment I\s based onionized gases produced by electrical discharges. This treatment is highly surface specific and doesnot affect bulk properties.

The Cold oxygen plasma treatment.

Substrate is treated in plasma chamber at power 100-300 watt about 10-15 Min. the pressureinside the chamber is maintained around 15 Pa. The plasma treated fabric is washed with 1 gpl of non-ionic detergent at 60 degree Celsius for 80 min. followed by hot and cold rinsing and air-drying.

Possible applications for low temperature plasma treatment in vacuum textile technology arecurrently envisaged in the following fields:

¾ Anti felting finish of wool-The gas discharge rounds-off the scales of the wool.

¾ Improving the wetting properties and dyeability of chemical fibers- In this process,hydrophobic chemical fibers are usually rendered hydrophilic.

¾  Denim fading- The oxygen cold plasma was applied in the desizing & Colour fadingtreatment of denim. It was believed that the etching property of cold plasma could achieveboth desizing & colour fading on denim in one single treatment. This is due to the etching effect of the plasma treatment will increase the waterabsorbency of the cellulose fibers on denim &hence their strength.

¾ Increasing the adhesion of composite textiles like aramid or carbon fibers.¾ On treatment of cotton with low temperature low pressure ammonia plasma, it gains

chemical reactivity & the cellulose structure changes as if it was a cross-linked one.

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CONCLUSION:

 The scope of textile finishing is very broad. Only innovative products will be able to open upnew markets and new horizons for textile industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest in furtherresearch and development.

Globalization has opened the door to competition at the highest level. Every industry should nowproduce products that are best in terms of quality and price. Customers today have a wide range of choices and the one who produces the best quality at a high competitive price will survive andprosper. The major trust areas in the coming years will very much center around:

1. Customized solution

2. Process optimization3. All in one universal application.4. Global competitiveness5. Technological up gradation

What is needed is not simply conveyance of knowledge but the development of truly creativeresearchers. The textile industry needs to shift its emphasis from quantity to quality in the newmillennium of global competition era.

 The driving force for change in chemical finishes are the need for a competitive strategy by costconscious finisher to add value , enhance quality and provide the greater levels of service tocustomers through “ Right first time, right on time , right every time .” finishing . Compatibility isessential top provide one short multifunctional finishes that can be applied simultaneously 

 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

First of all we would like to express profound gratitude to the management of the institute,Principal Dr.Ing.V.P.Singh,and Advisor Prof. Dr.H.V.S.Murthy and Head of the department Prof.Dr.Prabhakar Bhat for giving encouragement and guidance to write a paper on Special Finishes toGarment – An Overview

REFERENCES: -

1 Contribution Of Specialty Finishes In The Light Of Global Consumer Demand, by EdwardMenzes, Rossari Biotech India Pvt.Ltd.

2 AquaTex system for upholstery fabrics, M.hueneke, A.Watzi, Fleissner GmbH &Co.,Germany.

3 “LAD Fluorocarbon Technology for High-tech sports wear –By Stefan Thumm ITB 1/2000.4 “Developing the new dimensions in fabric performance” by Kris Kittelson ITB 5/2000.

5 Encyclopedia of Finishing II6 “Process optimized silicon softening agent” by Stefan Thumm ITB 4/20017 “New Shrink Process for Cellolosic Apparel” by Yuichi Yanai ITB/988 NCUTE Pilot Training Programme on “Finishing of garments and knit goods” Sep. 20039 www.micro-capsules.com10 Chemunique, Vol. I, Issue V J uly-September 200011 International textile Bulletin 2004.

 About the author :

I am Shivendra Parmar completed my M.Tech in Textile Technology at Textile instituteof technology and Science,Bhiwani CDLU University during 2002 .I did my B.E in Textile Technology at Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science, Indore andpassed out in First Class during the year 2002.So far published 4 articles in National

and International J ournals and presented one paper in national conference. Currentlyworking as lecturer & placement coordinator in the department of Textile Technology,Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science, Indore. Also contribute in TextileAssociation Of India,M.P Unit as a J t. Secertary. Email:

[email protected] 

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I am Tanveer Malik completed my M.Tech in Textile Manufacturing at Veermata J ijabai Technological Institute (VJTI), Mumbai University during dec 2001 .I did my B.E in Textile Technology at Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science, Indore and passed outin First Class during the year 2000.So far published 3 articles in National andInternational J ournals. Currently working as lecturer in the department of Textile Technology, Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science, Indore.Email:

[email protected] 

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