Trendshighlightclassic stylesthat can beworn afterthe wedding,writesRachelRead

S2 Wednesday, November 26, 2014

SPECIAL REPORT: THE MOMENT

If you thought weddingfashion began and endedwith the bridal gown, thinkagain. These days, groomshave just as many choices

to make regarding their suits forthe big day – from obviousdecisions, such as cut, style and fabric, down to smallerdetails, such as thread colour,button type and the amount of padding.

But as Mark Cho, co-founder of men’shaberdasher The Armoury,points out: “You will belooking at your weddingphotos for a long timeafterwards, and what’sfashionable today could bevery regrettable in hindsight.”

If you want to avoidbecoming the sartoriallaughingstock of future

generations, as with the flaredtrousers and giant lapels of 1970sgroom’s outfits, going classicmight be your best bet – somuch so that taking the simpleroute is becoming a trend initself. Tony Chang, managingdirector of bespoke men’s tailorsAscot Chang, has noticed arecent “renewed interest in theclassic approach”.

Chang says many Hong Konggrooms are opting for traditionalformalwear that’s dependent onthe time of the wedding –morning suits for daytime ortraditional black-tie tuxedos forevening – or contemporary two-or three-piece suits.

“The beauty of adhering toclassic dress codes is that youcan continue wearing yourgarments long after yourwedding, especiallyclothes that have beenproperly tailored andcrafted in good taste,”he says.

Chris Tsun, co-founder of men’stailor Moda Republic,says many clientsdeliberately ask forsimple suits that canbe worn again aftertheir wedding.

This longevitywas one factor inHong Kong groomPhilip Ho’s choiceof a bespoke outfit,with his tailorcreating a style thatcould be easilyaltered to becomea simple work suitafter the big day.

To ensure youhave a designclassic, Cho advisesagainst choosing anything“overly stylised” and insteadsticking to the “simple, classicand well-fitted”, with standard-sized lapels, jackets long enoughto cover the seat, and not overlytrim trousers.

Unless you’re planning abeach wedding, it’s also theclassic colours that prove mostpopular – black, dark charcoal ornavy blue – although Chang hasseen grooms experimentingwith bolder colours for neckwearand accessories. “Feel free topick one or two accessories toadd an individualised touch toyour outfit, but keep it subtle,”he says.

For his recent wedding, Hochose a yellow bowtie with anunderstated polka-dot print

purchased from the craftwebsite Etsy to match the colourof the bridesmaids’ dresses andalso stand out from hisgroomsmen’s yellow ties.

Chang recalls another groomwho had his and his fiancée’snames and wedding dateembroidered in the shirt placket, the kind of little detail he feels “adds a tangible soul tothe garment”.

As for styles that have fallenout of fashion over the past fewyears, Chang points to the shiny,synthetic, often silver-colouredsuits that were especiallypopular among Hong Konggrooms. Chang believes thesehigh-sheen fabrics lack elegancecompared to traditional onesand compete with the ethos that“the bride should be framed as

the focal point of the wedding”.Furthermore, these “hybrid”suits haphazardly borrowedelements from both traditionaland contemporary suits,resulting in a mishmash of stylesthat would quickly look dated.

As Tsun puts it: “We often tellclients their wedding night is notthe night to take risks with whatthey wear.”

Ho confirms this,commenting that while he wasopen to wearing “somethingdifferent and less conservative”for his engagement photos, hedeliberately chose a formal,classic but “not over-the-top”design for the wedding itself,resulting in a more timeless look.

And when it comes tofootwear, all the tailors were inagreement – formal black shoesare the best choice and willnever become dated.

Another key concern forHong Kong grooms is the choice of suit fabric, especiallygiven the typically warmweather. Chang recommendsnatural fabrics, such as worstedwool or silk and mohair blends,paired with matching satin orgrosgrain silk details, while Tsunhas created linen suits fordestination weddings in evenhotter climates.

Cho also advises his clients against picking fabricsthat are too light or thin, as theywill hang or drape. They shouldopt for heavier alternatives.

Finally, don’t forget toconsider your bridal party aswell. Cho recalls being agroomsman at a friend’swedding with no choice in hisclothing, and found himselfwearing a polyester tuxedo andtrousers in July at a church withno air-conditioning.

“It was probably funnier for onlookers than it was for myself.”

SUITS

Groom suit optionsfrom Ascot Chang

Navy ring suit jacket from The Armoury

Classic colours and accessories create a tasteful and timeless look.

Grooms keep it simple

What’sfashionabletoday could bevery regrettablein hindsightMARK CHO, CO-FOUNDER OF THE ARMOURY