Presentation on special knits and weaves

KNITTING TECHNOLOGY

knitting is a technique of interloping of yarn. The yarn is form to make loops above and below to form a stitch. Thus one horizontal raw of loop is made from such stitches.

TERMS USED IN KNITTING

A course: - A course is a horizontal row of loops produced by the adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle.

A wale: - A wale is a vertical column of needle loops produced by thsame needle knitting at successive knitting cycles

Techniqually upright fabric :-this is the fabric in which the carses are perfectly horizontal and Wales are perfectly vertical and the two are at 90 to each other. The course knitted first lies at the bottom and the head of the loop faces towards the top Pitch :- the distance between the two consecutive needles is known as pitch. Pitch and machine gauge is related to each other. More the machine gauge, less the pitch.

Machine Gauge = 1 Pitch

Difference between warp and weft

In weft knitting the yarn run horizontally and in warp

knitting the yarn run vertically. Weft knitted fabric is more open fabric where as warp

knitted fabric is more compact fabric . Weft knitting may be done in flat or circular why

where as warp knitting is done in flat way only . Weft knitting is used to produce shaped garment

yardage . Warp knitting is used to produce yardages . In weft knitting loops jointed 1,2 another in the same

course where as in warp knitting loops jointed 1,2 another in adjoining course .

Types of Knitting

Warp knitting Weft knitting

Weft knitting

The process of hand knitting is known as weft knitting and it can also be done by machines.

the work progresses back and forth, that is width-wise.

In each cycle which is known as course, a new row of stitches is formed. In each row there may be a number of stitches depending upon the width of the fabric to be knitted.

Each stitch of the row is built-up intermeshing with the previously held stitches of the previous row.

The vertical row of stitches or loops hanging vertically from the needles is known as wale. Weft knitted fabric is produced in either flat or tubular form.

Types of Weft Knitted Stitches

Plain-knit Stitch Purl Stitch Rib Stitch Interlock Stitch Jersey stitch

Plain-Knit Stitch

The basic form of knitting is the Plain Knit. This stitch can be produced in flat knit, tubular,

or circular forms. The flat knit is also called jersey stitch. In plain knitted stitch, each loop is drawn

through other loops to the right side of the fabric.

The loops form vertical rows, also called wales, on the fabric face, giving it a sheen, and crosswise rows, also called courses, on the back.

The plain-knit stitch produces relatively lightweight fabric compared with the thicker fabrics produced by other stitches.

Purl Stitch

This stitch is also known as the links/links stitch. It is made on flatbed and circular machines by needles using hooks on both ends.

The hooks alternately draw loops to the front of the fabric in one course, and to the back in the next course.

It is a slow and costly technique. Purl-stitched fabric looks the same on both sides and resembles the reverse of the plain knit.

Because the purl stitch has crosswise stretch and excellent lengthwise stretch, it is widely used in kids' and infant wear.

Rib Stitch The Rib knitted stitch is produced either on a flat

rib machine or a circular rib machine. Rib knitted fabric has alternating rows of plain and

purl stitches constructed so that both the face and back of the fabric look alike.

Rib construction is costlier because of the greater amount of yarn needed.

Weft Knitted Fabric is usually highly elastic and highly drapeable and these two properties make the fabric suitable for a wide range of apparel applications.

Weft knitted fabric is considered to be comfortable both for outer garments and undergarments.

Double knit Made with two sets of yarns, this double-

constructed fabric has fine ribs running lengthwise on both sides.

Usually looks same on fabric’s face and reverse, making it reversible.

Fancy double knits may have novelty stitch on fabric’s face and fine ribs on reverse.

Heavy, firm; usually has almost no stretch in either direction. Good shape retention; cut edges don’t curl.

Tailored garments, like jackets, suits, or sheath dresses. If particular double knit has some crosswise stretch, adjusting pattern (by cutting it slightly smaller in body girth) may be necessary

Interlock

Compound fabric made by “inter-knitting,” or interlocking, two simple ribbed fabrics, each made with single yarn.

fine ribs running lengthwise. Fabric’s face and reverse look same, making it

reversible. Almost no lengthwise stretch; more crosswise

stretch than double knits or jerseys; fairly good shape retention.

Raw or cut edges don’t curl; unravels only from end last knitted.

Wonderful for T-shirts, turtlenecks, casual skirts and dresses, and children’s wear. Because of its crosswise stretch, use pattern designed for interlock knits, or be prepared to adjust pattern.

Jersey knit

Also referred to as plain knit or single knit. Has distinct right and wrong sides, with fine ribs running lengthwise on fabric’s face, and semicircular loops running across reverse.

Little or no lengthwise stretch, varying amounts of crosswise stretch.

 Jersey with little or no crosswise or lengthwise stretch (like most wool jerseys) can be used for skirts, blouses, and dresses without pattern adjustments.

Jersey with crosswise stretch requires pattern adjustments or pattern designed for crosswise stretch.

Warp Knitting The basic feature of warp knitting is that

these yarns make vertical parallel wales. The term 'warp knitting' refers to

machine knitting. The needles produce parallel rows of loops simultaneously that are interlocked in a zigzag pattern.

The stitches on the face of the fabric appear vertically and the stitches at the back appear horizontally as floats at a slight angle.

These floats are also called Laps or Underlaps, and are a distinguishing identification of warp knits.

Types of Warp Knitted Stitches

Tricot Knit Milanese Knit Simplex Knit Raschel Knit Ketten Raschel Knit Crochet Knit

Tricot knit

Tricot fabric is soft, wrinkle resistant and has good drapability.

Tricot knits are used for a wide variety of fabric weights and designs.

Some examples of tricot fabric are lingerie, loungewear, sleepwear, blouses, shirts, dresses, slacks etc.

Milanese Knit

The Milanese stitch produces a fabric very similar to tricot. It can be identified by the fine rib on the face and a diagonal pattern on the back.

Milanese fabric is superior to tricot in smoothness, elasticity, regularity of structure, split and tear resistance.

Simplex Knit

Simplex fabric is made of fine yarn and is relatively dense and thick.

It is a small part of warp knit production.

Simplex fabric is used to make gloves, handbags, sportswear and slip covers.

Eyelets and other openwork can also be produced on the simplex machine.

Raschel Knit

The raschel knit ranks in importance of production with tricot but it make varieties of products ranging from veilings, laces, power nets for foundation garments, to carpets.

Raschel knitting is done with heavy yarns and usually has an intricate lace-like pattern.

Ketten Raschel Knit

This is also known as the chain raschel. The machine can be equipped to produce raised pattern effects in one or more colors. The fabric is finer, has a better hand, superior elasticity and cover.

Crochet Knit

This basic stitch is used in hand-crochet. This construction is used in a wide variety of fabrics ranging from nets and laces to bedspreads and carpets

Advanced knits

Tucks Float

KNITTING FABRIC DEFECTS Knitted fabric has imperfections sometimes that

occur as a result of construction of fabric defects. They may occur as a result of faulty yarn knitting machine. Malfunctioning or improper finishing.

Uneven count of yarn Different dyeing shades Bands or Streaks Needle Line Different tensions Stitch defect Dropped Stitch Press off Tucking

Novelty Weaves

Novelty Weaves are also called as decorative, fancy, figure and

design weaves. They are formed by predetermined changes in the

interlacing of warp and filling yarns.

Dobby Weave

Dobby designs have small figures .

The design is produced by a

combination of two or more basic weaves.

Thirty two harnesses.

Jacquard designs

Fabrics with elaborate designs are woven using the Jacquard loom.

Jacquard mechanism has the ability to control every warp yarn instead of a series as in regular harness looms.

The pattern for the Jacquard loom is transferred to a series of perforated cards, one for each filling pick in the pattern.

Leno Weave The leno weave produces an open-

textured fabric that may be sheer or heavy.

It is produced by the doup attachment to the basic loom.

The doup attachment controls the warp threads horizontally as well as vertically and the unusual warp interlacing prevents slippage of the filling and reduces shrinkage.

Examples include mosquito nets,household bags and curtains

Surface Figure Weaves

Extra warp or filling yarns can be interlaced on the basic weaves to produce different designs.

Lappet Weave

In lappet weave an extra warp yarn is introduced.

By an attachment to the loom. Long floats formed on the back of the

fabric are cut away, if floats are small they are usually left. Example: fancy sarees.

Swivel Weave

Designs are produced by extra filling yarns.

Separate shuttles are placed at each point where the design has to be made.

The shed is formed by the pattern, where the shuttle carries the yarn through the shed, the distance of the pattern.

The extra filling floats on the back of the fabric, the long floats is cut away after weaving is completed.

Example : silk sarees.

Spot Weave

Spot designs are formed by extra warp or filling yarns.

The yarns are inserted the entire length or width of the fabric, spots or dot designs are formed.

The long floats on the back side are cut away, leaving the dots.

The threads can be pulled easily. Filling threads are easy to cutExample : dotted swiss.

Double weave

Double weave fabrics are obtained by using five or more set of yarns.

The most common types of double cloth have two set of warp and two set of weft yarns with an extra yarn interlacing both the cloth.

The double cloth has additional bulk, strength and warmth.

Examples are coatings, blankets, double brocade and brocatelle.

DIFFERENT BETWEEN KNITTING AND WEAVING

Constriction Elasticity Mobility Recovery Cover (protection) Fabric stability Warmth Absorbency Selvedge Drapebility

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