Mount Alverstone, Northeast Face. During the closing days of a long spell of excellent weather toward the end of July, John Rupley, Henry Mather, George Lowe and I made the second ascent of Mount Alverstone (14,500 feet) by a completely new route on its north and east faces. From Base Camp, which we reached by helicopter from Kluane Lake, we snow- shoed with two relays to the head of the branch of the Lowell Glacier that fringes the summit walls of Mounts Kennedy and Alverstone. Near its

head was a large bergschrund, followed by three pitches of steep blue ice that required step-cutting and fixed ropes. From a camp at the pass at its top, we broke trail up slopes averaging 4 0 °, hurried beneath a great ice cliff, and climbed to a picturesque campsite on a small bench between two crevasses, close to 11,000 feet in altitude. On July 25 we climbed to the summit by a route, rather tedious at first, on which we followed a secondary ridge north and crossed a monotonous glacier basin to the final 2000 feet of steeper and at times quite spectacular climbing. Rupley and I, who did all the trail-breaking and step-kicking on the final day, found a most inter­esting route along the last 600 feet of the upper northeast ridge. After returning to Base Camp, we made the long march out to Kluane Lake in three hard days.

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