sportswear tech

8/12/2019 Sportswear TECH.

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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m

EngineeredFibres

&

Fabrics

forActiveSportswear

By:Gaurav

Agarwal


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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m ENGINEEREDFIBRES&FABRICSFORACTIVESPORTSWEAR

By:GauravAgarwal

Abstract:Thesportsclothingoftodayhavebecometechnicallyoriented,usinghighlyfunctional

textilesforbothcasualandperformancesportswear.Therecentdevelopmentsinmaterialsfor

sportswear have resulted in specialized performances in different sports. In this paper an

overview isgivenoftherecentdevelopments infibres,yarns,fabricsforapplications inactive

sportswear.

1.INTRODUCTION

Indiaisincreasingtotalwealthandpercapitaincome.Therapidspreadofsatellitetelevisionis

globalizing the vision of the healthy lifestyle and spreading knowledge of sports and leisure

wearsfromcountrytocountry.Duetothisconsumersarebecomingmoreandmoreconscious

for the comfortof the garments that theyarewearing.Designofactive sportswear is still a

subjectof research formany companies.As a resultof thisnew fibre, fabrics& finishes are

developedtosatisfythestringentrequirementsimposedbycontemporarysportstrends.

Constantpursuitofvictoriesandrecordbreakingperformancebytoplevelprofessionalathletes,

outstandingmarksmanshipbypopularballplayers and themaximum enjoymentof amateur

sportsactivitiesneedcreativeengineeredsportsgarments.Thismeansthattheproductshave

tobemore than functional if consumers areencouraged tobuy them,as theyare currently

demandingnewlooksandfabricswithadifferentfeeltothem.

Thesportswearandsportgoodssectorof the textile industryhasnotonlyresulted inmarket

diversification for fibrousmaterialsbuthas also contributed towards theelevationof textile

scienceandtechnologytoalevelwhichstartstobecomeinparwithotherhightechindustrial

sectors. New technological developments,more fragmented nichemarkets and increasingly

demandingcustomerexpectationsarejustsomeofthefactorsrelentlesslydrivingthisindustrial

sector. To thrive in this environment, companies are implementing radically new product

developmentpractices.

2.DESIGNCONSIDERATIONSINSPORTSWEAR

Designrequirementsofactiveandperformancesportswearhaveproduceddesignerswithskills

and knowledge in graphics, textiles and fashion to conceive aesthetically pleasing and

ergonomically viable rangeswhich take advantage of the latest advances in functional and

smarttextiles. It isthefabricsandtechnologythatsetthetrend. Incorporationofmicrofibres,

breathablebarrierfabrics,innovativestretchmaterials,intelligenttextiles,interactivematerials

suchasphasechangematerialsandshapememorypolymersandwearabletechnologyasapart


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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m ofthefunctionaldesignsysteminsportswear,willbecomeroutineintheproductdevelopment

process.

Advancesininnovativehighfunctionaluncoatedandcoatedtextilesandcoatingsaswellasthe

garment manufacturing technology have resulted in more sophisticated sportswear and

footwear specificallydesigned tobeusedbydifferentuser categoriesofperformance sportsand outdoor leisure use. All this helps to speed the runner, keep thejogger dry and cool,

streamlining the swimmer, protect the cricketer, hockey player and snowboarder, keep the

footballplayerandcyclistdry,andkeep theusercomfortableandwarm inextremeweather

conditions.

3.SPORTSWEARANDCOMFORT:

In active and endurance sports, the performance of a sportswear is synonymous with its

comfort characteristics. In active wear for outdoor use, the clothing should be capable of

protecting thewearer fromexternalelementssuchaswind,sun,rainandsnow.At thesame

time, itshouldbecapableofmaintainingtheheatbalancebetweentheexcessheatproduced

bythewearerduetoincreasedmetabolicrateontheonehand,andthecapacityoftheclothing

todissipatebodyheatandperspirationontheother.

Sportswearneedstolookasawholesystem.Ifoverheatingistobeavoided,thermoregulation

andmoisturemanagementarekeyfunctionsofclothingdesignedforuseassportswearoractive

wear.Thehumanbody,itsmicroclimate&itsclothingformamutuallyinteractivesystem.The

bodyanditsmicroclimateareinvariables;theclothingsystemistheonlyvariable.

Thehumanbodyhasanoperatingtemperatureof37Cwhichitattemptstomaintainunderall

circumstances.Duringphysicalactivitysuchas insport thebody temperature rises.Thebodycoolsdownagainthroughtheexcretionofperspiration.Perspirationcreatesmoisturevapor.If

thiscannotbereleasedoutwardthroughmanylayersofclothingagreenhouseeffectresults.

Topreventthebodytemperatureexceedingthecomfortzone,theheatmustsimultaneouslybe

dissipatedoutwardly.Thehumanbodyhasnoproblemexcretinghalfaliterorevenawholeliter

ofperspirationperhourprovidedthatthisprocessisnotimpededbytherelativehumidityof

it senvironment &clothing.

Itisclearthatclothingisthekeytobodycomfort.Comfortisdifficulttodefinesinceitcoversboth

quantifiable data and subjective considerations. In general, comfort is a situation where

temperature differences between body members are small with low skin humidity and the

physiologicaleffortofthermalregulationreducedtominimum.

Four types of Clothing comforthave been definedwhich are essential requirements for

activesportswear.Theyare:

1. Thermophysiologicalcomfort2. Sensorial/tactilecomfort


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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m 3. Mobility/Dexterity 4. Psychologicalcomfort Thermophysiologicalcomfort:

Thisformofcomfortmaybesaidtoexistwhenthepersonisinthermalbalancei.e.when the rateof lossofheat from thebodyequals the rate atwhich it isbeing

generatedby thephysiologicalprocesses. If therateof lossofheat is insufficient,

thepersonfeelshotandthebodytemperaturerises,heatstresseventuallyresults.

Ontheotherhandiftherateof lossofheat istoohigh,thepersonfirstfeelscold

andthebodytemperaturefalls,causingdiscomforttotheperson.Thusforgetting

thermophysiological comfort the sportswear should have suitable thermal

insulation properties as well as sufficient permeability to water vapor and/or

sufficientlevelofventilation.

Sensorial/tactilecomfort:The sensorial comfort does not directly involve any temperature balance, but is

related to theway that theperson feelswhenclothing iswornnext to skin.Wet

feelingandwetclingcanbeamajorsourceofsensorialdiscomfortinsituationsof

profusesweating. If theskin iswetwithsweatand ifthesweat isnotreleasedby

theclothing thenanunpleasant feelingwithwetnesswilloccur.Also theclothing

which is nexttoskinwill stick to body whichwill prevent the sports person to

performproperly.

Mobility:While doing the various physical activities in the active sports, considerable

movements of body parts occur. The sportswear must therefore have sufficient

degreeofmobilitysothatwearercanbeabletomovefreely.Toomuchvolume,too

muchweight or toomuch stiffness of fabricwill tend to reduce themobility and

leadstodiscomfort.Theclothingshouldhavelowfluidresistanceandstretchability.

PsychologicalcomfortThe feeling of thewearer that he or she is dressed in a style/fashionmeans the

psychological comfort.This ismainly relatedwith aesthetic appeal. From toplevelprofessional sport person to amateurs, all demandpsychological comfort to some

extentalongwithotherthreecomforts.

4.REQUISITEFUNCTIONOFACTIVESPORTSWEAR:

There arebasically three typesof sportsplayers and their requirementsof sportswear in

termsoffunctionalandotherpropertiesaredifferent.


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(i) Toplevelprofessionalprimarilyrequirefunctionalpowerwithaestheticappealastheystarveforrecordbreakingperformance.

(ii) Theseriouslycompetingamateursinvolvedinsportsclubwhoaspotentialfuturetopline performers need to have sportswearwith at leastminimum functional

effectivenessandatareasonablecost;and(iii) Thosewhoenjoysportsactivitiesforitsbenefitsinrespectofhealth,hobbiesand

socialcontactneedthematerialtoprovideaminimumphysicalfunctionbutthey

aremoreconsciousaboutcomfortandsensitivity.

Therequirementsforanactivesportswearcanbroadlybeclassifiedinto:

(a)Functional:Fortoplevelcompetitionactivesportswearrequiressuperlightweight,low

fluid resistance, super high tenacity and stretchability. For those seeking comfort and

healthypursuits,criticalfeaturesincludethermalretention,UVresistance,coolingcapacity,

sweatabsorption,fastdrying,vapourpermeability,waterproofingetc.toproviderelaxation

preventingfatigue.

(b) Aesthetic: From the sensitivity or aesthetic point of view, softness, surface texture,

handle,lustre,colourvariation,transparencyandcomfortinwearareimportantfactors.

5.DEVELOPMENTSINFIBRESANDTEXTILEMATERIALSFORSPORTSWEAR:

Theevolutionoffibredevelopmentshasgonethroughthephasesofconventionalfibres,highly

functionalfibresandhighperformancefibres.Polyester isthesinglemostcommonfibreused

for sports wear and active wear. Other fibres suitable for active wear are polyamide,

polypropylene, acrylic and elastanes. Synthetic fibres can either be modified during

manufacturing or be optimally blended with natural fibres to improve their thermo

physiologicalandsensoryproperties.Syntheticfibreswith improvedUVresistanceandhaving

antimicrobial properties are also commercially available for use in sportswear. New

technologies forproducingmicrofibreshavealsocontributed towardsproductionofhightech

sportswear.

A.NEWPOLYMERSFORSPORTSWEAR:

1.PHASECHANGEMATERIAL(PCM):

Phasechangematerialsproducemicrocapsulesfullofparaffin.When,thecapsulesare

heated,theparaffin liquidifiesandheatenergyisstored.Whentheenvironmentcools,

theparaffincrystallizesagain,releasingheat.Theparaffin,whichisavailableindifferent

recipeswithvariousmeltingpoints, is referred to thephasechangematerial,orPCM.

Because the paraffin can be formulated with different melting points, the

microcapsules can be designed to keep the wearer either warm or cool. The


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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m warmer paraffin is suitable for skiing and other coldweather sports; the cooler

waxesare goodchoicesforbikinggear,mountaineeringclothes,orfootwear.

2.SHAPEMEMORYPOLYMERS:Diaplex:Aspecialsuitbasedonamembraneemployingshapememorypolymerswasdeveloped for Swedish sailor. The suit, designed employs theDiaplex smart fabric

technology. Diaplex materials can be simultaneously and completely waterproof,

windproof and breathable. This material can 'remember' and retain its shape, or

returntoapreviousform.AgarmentmadefromDiaplex isabletosensechanges in

the surroundingenvironment,evaluate then intelligently, and control its responses

toensurethehighestlevelofcomfort.

ItsintelligenceliesintheuniquewayinwhichittakesadvantageofmicroBrownian

motion (thermal vibration). MicroBrownian motion occurs within the Diaplex

membranewhenthetemperaturerisesaboveapredeterminedactivationpoint.As

a resultof thismotion,microporesare created in thepolymermembranewhich

allowswater vapour andbodyheat toescape.Becausepermeability increases as

thetemperaturerises,themembrane isabletorespond intelligently tochanges in

thewearer'senvironmentandbodytemperature.

Diaplex is also unique in that the temperature at which microBrownian motion

begins can be freely specified. Thismeans that the activation point can be set to

match,theenvironmentalconditionsinwhichagarmentislikelytobeworn.

3.MEMBRANETECHNOLOGY:Airvantage: Airvantage system by W.L. Gore is the first personal thermal climate

management system for clothing in the world. It

enableswearerstoreactasthoughtheyhadtheirown

personalairconditioningsystem.

Thesecretofthesystemisbasedonanageoldpiece

of wisdom air is a poor conductor of heat and

thereforethebestnatural insulator.Ontheonehand

trapped airprotect, against the cold,on theother it

keepsinexistingbodyheat.

Airvantage membrane system, specially developed for the construction of

permanentlyairtightandbreathablechambers,isbasedonthesamePTFEtechnology

asGoreTex.

Two laminates are bonded together to be airtight and breathable. The special air

chambers of this garment component are adjusted using a valve.When the outside


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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m temperaturechanges,orwhenwearerbecomesmoreorlessactive,theinsulationlayer

canberegulatedasrequired,simplybyblowingairintothechambersorbyallowingit

toescape. In the first case,blowing air into the chambers significantly improvesheat

retention(thermalinsulation)sothatthewearerfeelswarmer.Inthesecond,reducing

theamountofairtrappedinthechambersmeansthatexcessbodyheatcanbereleased.

Sypmpatex: Sypmpatex differs from its main competitor GoreTex in being ex

tremely thin layered (70100 microns) solid polyester membrane with no

micropores. It is effective in transporting perspiration moisture away from the

wearer'sbodybutatthesametimeagoodbarriertowaterandwind.

B.FIBRES&YARNSFORACTIVESPORTSWEAR:

Developments insynthetic fibreswhichare tailormadehaveopenedupenormousavenues

fortheiruse insportsweartomeetspecificrequirements. Inactivesportswearsinglefibreis

seldomused.Mostly,specialtyfibresareusedinconjunctionwithnormalfibres.Examplesof

suchfibresaregivenbelow:

Hygra:UnitikaLimitedhaslaunchedHygra,whichisasheathcore type filamentyarncomposedof

fibre made from water absorbing polymer and

nylon.Thewaterabsorbingpolymerhasaspecial,

networkstructure thatabsorbs35 times itsown

weight of water and offers quick releasing

properties that the conventional water

absorbingpolymercannotdo.Ontheotherhand,

nylon in the core gives tensile strength and

dimensional stability. Hygra also has superior

antistatic properties even under low wet

conditions. Themain apparel applications include sportswear like athleticwear, skiwear,

golfwearetc.Lumiace: Lumiace is also a product fromUnitika. It is a collection of polyester filaments

havingdifferentfineness(0.5 2.0denierperfilament)andirregularcrosssections.Hygra

LumiacecombinationinknittedfabricisverypopularintopJapaneseathletes.

Dryarn:Dryarn is the new fibre fromAquafil. It is a completely recyclablepolypropylene

microfibre. Fabric fromDryarn is very lightweight and comfortable and used in differentsports.Inaddition,ithasasofthandleandahighthermoregulatorycapacityandalsodries

quickly. Bacteria cannot settle on smooth surface of the fibre which avoids unpleasant

odourassociatedwithdecompositionofbacteria.

KillatN:KillatNfromKaneboLtdisanylonhollowfilament.Thehollowportionisabout33

percentofthecrosssectionofeachfilamentduetowhich itgivesgoodwaterabsorbency

andwarmthretentiveproperty.ThemanufacturingtechnologyofKillatNisveryinteresting.


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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m The yarn is spun as bicomponent filament yarn with soluble

polyester copolymer as the core portion and nylon as the skin

portion. Then by giving alkali weight loss treatment the soluble

polyestercopolymerofthebicomponentfilamentwilldissolveand

alargehollowportion(exceeding30percentofthecrosssection)

willbecreated.

Triactor: Toyobo Co Ltd has developed Triactor, which is a

perspirationabsorbing/quickdryingpolyesterfilament.Polyester

ishydrophobicanddoesnotabsorbmoisturebutbychangingthe

filaments to Y shaped cross section Toyobo has realized quick

perspiration absorbency by capillary action. The hydrophobic

nature and large filament surface of polyester filaments realize

quickdryingandrefreshingpropertiesatthesametime.

CoolMAX:Itisatetrachannelpolyesterfibrewithacrosssectionlikeadoublescallop.This

fibrewasproducedspecificallyforthesportswearmarket.Ithasimprovedwickingcapability

andmoisturevaporpermeability.

Drirelease: Drirelease is a wicking performance yarn developed by USbased Optimer, a

companyfoundedbyagroupofformerDupontscientists.Thispatentedproductisanintimate

blendof8590%hydrophobic lowmoistureabsorbing staple fibres suchaspolyesterand10

15%hydrophilicwickingstaplesuchascotton.Drireleaseisincorporatedinathleticwear,socks

andunderwear.Drireleasecombinesthewickingandsofttouchpropertiesofcottonwiththe

nonabsorbing nature of polyester. Drirelease also incorporates a Freshguard finish. This

neutralizesodorsretainedinthefabricforthelifeofthegarment.

NEW Elite: Elite is the trademark for a PBT (polybutyleneterephthalate) textured yarn

manufactured by Nylstar andmarketed by Rhotex, Italy. After thermal treatment at the

dyeing or finishing stage Elite yarn can achieve permanent elasticity with comfortable

stretchpropertiesforsportswear.TheeasydyeabilityofEliteyarnwithdispersedyeat98C,

makesitsuitableforblendingwithnaturalandsyntheticfibres.

C.FABRICDEVELOPMENTSFORACTIVESPORTSWEAR:

Therehasbeenastronggrowth indevelopmentanduseofhigh functionalmaterialsused in

sportswearandoutdoorleisureclothing.Theperformancerequirementsofmanysuchproductsdemand the balance of widely different properties of drape, thermal insulation, barrier to

liquids, antistatic, stretch, physiological comfort etc. The research in this field over the past

decadehasledtothecommercialdevelopmentofavarietyofnewproductsforhighfunctional

enduses.Bydesigningnewprocesses for fabricpreparationand finishing, andasa resultof

advancesintechnologiesforproductionandapplicationofsuitablepolymericmembranesand

surface finishes, it is now possible to successfully combine the consumer requirements of

aesthetics,designandfunctioninsportswearfordifferentenduseapplications.Thefabricsfor


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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m activewear and sportswearare also specially constructed in termsof thegeometry,packing

densityandstructureoftheconstituentfibresinyarnsaswellastheconstructionofthefabric

in order to achieve the necessary dissipation of heat andmoisture at highmetabolic rates.

Many smart doubleknittedordoublewoven fabrics havebeendeveloped for sportswear in

such away that their face closer to human skin has optimalmoisturewicking and sensory

propertieswhereastheouterfaceofthefabrichasoptimalmoisturedissipationbehavior.

Naiva: Unitika has developed Naiva fabric by combining the Naiva yarn with a nylon

microfibre.NaivaisanEval/nylonbicomponentfilamentyarn.Evalisbasicallyacopolymer

resin of ethylene vinylalcohol.Naiva yarn composed of 55% Eval and 45% nylon. In the

Naivafabricstherearemanynylonmicroloopsonthesurface,whichareformedbymaking

use of high thermal shrinkage property of Naiva yarn. Naiva fabric not only has good

moisturepermeabilitybutalsohas someotherpositive features like lightweight, softness

and has capability of secondary finishing. The fabric is very successfully used in

mountaineeringwearandotheractivesportswear.

Field Sensor: Field Sensor is a very popular high performance fabric from Toray,which

employsamultilayerstructurethatnotonlyabsorbsperspirationquicklybutalsotransports

it up to the outer layer of fabric very rapidly using principle of capillary action. It is

composedofcoarserdenieryarnontheinsidesurface(indirectcontactwithskin)andfine

denierhydrophobicpolyesteryarninameshconstructionontheoutersurfacetoaccelerate

quick evaporation of sweat. Themodel of absorption and fast dryingmechanism of field

sensorisshowninfig.below

Water magic: Water magic from Kuraray also utilises the same principle for sweat

absorptionandquickdryingas thatofNaiva.Watermagic isa3layeredknitted fabricof

Wrap (67% polyester / 33% nylon ultra finemicrofibre).Watermagic has innumerable

random and minute pores. These micropores speedily

transportperspirationfromtheskinsidetoouterair.

GoreTex: The first and probably the best known

waterproof breathable fabric isGoreTex. This is a thin

microporousmembraneofpolytetrafluroethylene(PTFE)

sandwiched between two fabric layers. The polymer

claimed to contain 1.4 billion tiny holes per cm. These

holesaremuchsmallerthanthesmallestraindrops(23


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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m gmcomparedwith100pro),yet verymuchlargerthanawatervapourmolecule(40x10

6

m).

EntrantG II:Torayhasdeveloped ahighperformance

waterproof breathable fabric Entrant G II. It is a

microporous coating of polyurethane developed withimportancegiventohighwaterpressureresistanceand

highmoisturepermeability.

ThesecretofhighperformanceofEntrantG II is inthe

threelayered polyurethane coating membranes

including two different micro porous layers. If the

layers from the top fabric sidearecalled layer1, layer2and layer3,each layerhas the

followingproperties:

Layer1:Foamlayerwithminisculemicroporousimproveswaterproofinganddurability;Layer2:Regularlyconfiguredmicroporousincreasesmoisturepermeability;Layer3:Poresintheresinsurfaceenhancewaterproofing.Strengtheningcoatingsurfaceandinhibitdewcondensation.

Isofix Super: Isofix Super, developed by Kanebo, is the name applied to a coatingwhich

incorporates new processing and structural technologies by fusing antisublimation / anti

migration coating techniques to special ceramicswith countlessnumberofpores.Themajor

featuresof"IsofixSuper"otherthanwaterproof/moisturepermeablepropertyareasfollows:

Anticondensation property: Once the special ceramics, which are composed ofhydrophilic crystalswith countersnumbersofmicroporous, reach the supersaturated

condition, they demonstrate their water absorbing power to the hilt by presenting

condensation inside the

garment.Thiswaterabsorbing

power is as high as one

hundred to two hundreds

timestheweightofthespecial

ceramics themselves in the

coating.

Dry feel: As the ceramicparticles protrude from the

surface of the coated resin,

noneoftheresinevertouches

the body and thus provides

wear comfort without any

stickyfeeling.

Soft touch: Isofix Super


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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m adopts a resin which is softer than the polyurethane which is normally used in

waterproof/moisturepermeablecoatings.

Sportwool: It is a trademark of TheWoolmark Company. In

1994 research into thephysiologicalbenefitsofwool led to the

breakthrough development of Sportwool. It is a hybridmaterialcomposed of a fineMerinowool sublayer for insulation and a

polyesterexteriorwhichdrawsmoistureawayfromthewoollayer

tothesurface.Thewoolfibrenexttotheskinattractsperspiration

vapormolecules,before theyhave the chance to condense into

liquid,anddispersesthemintotheatmosphere.

The removal of the vapor from themicroclimate between the skin and fabric reduces the

formationof liquidsweat leavingyoudrierandmorecomfortable.Sportwool'suniquenatural

thermalregulationandvapormanagementpropertiescooldownwhenit'shotandkeepwarm

inextremecold.Sowhetherwearerisskiingonacoldwintermorningorcyclingintheheatof

summer,Sportwoolisthenaturalchoicewhenwearerwantstoperformtothemaximum.

6.CONCLUSION:

Sportingcultureintheworldhaschangeddramaticallyinrecentyearsfollowingtheemergence

of a new generation of consumers.With the ageing population and consequent increase in

leisuretimeandtravel,therewillbemoreemphasisonteamsports,leisure&individualsports.

Performanceapparelrepresentsoneofthefastestgrowingsectorsofthe internationaltextile

and clothing industry.Market growth is being fuelled by the emergenceofnew fibres,new

fabricsandinnovativeprocesstechnologies.

Themarketisalsobeingboostedbychangesinconsumerlifestyles.Peoplearespendingmore

timeonleisureactivities.Newhightechfabricsarebeingdevelopedforawiderangeofactive

sportssuchasaerobics,athletics, running,cycling,hiking,mountaineering, swimming, sailing,

windsurfing, ballooning, parachuting, snowboarding, etc. More developed technologies,

improvedfunctionalpropertiesofsportswear,newfibresandfabricsareexpectedtocomeout

inthenearfuturetomeetstringentexpectations.

7.REFERENCES

1. TextilesinSports,Ed.ByR.Shishoo,WoodheadPublishingLtd2. V.K.Kothari,FibresandFabricsforActiveSportswear,AsianTextileJournal,March20033. AkiraYonenagaEngineeredfabricsforactivesportswear,IntlTextileBulletin,No.4,19984. JurgRupp,FunctionalSportswear,IntlTextileBulletin,No.4,19985. S C Anand & L Higgins, Textile Materials & Products for Activewear & Sportswear,

Proceedings2ndInternationalConferenceofNISTI,23December2004,Delhi


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w w w .f i b r e2 f a s h i o n . co m 6. R.Shishoo, AnoverviewoftheRecentDevelopmentsinMaterialsforSportswear,Journal

ofFibreBioengineering&InformaticsSociety,2008

7. www.sportwool.com 8. www.gorefabrics.com9. www.torayentrant.com

TheauthorisanAssistantManagerwithConsumerProductsDivision,BirlaCellulose,Bharuch(Guj.)

ImageCourtesy:knittingindustry.com

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