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Ariane Poole

Biog: The career of Ariane Poole has spanned twenty-five years. She has worked with many of the top fashion and beauty photographers and her credits include major advertising campaigns for the likes of Max Factor, Boots No7, Almay, Miss Selfridge and Molton Brown. Ariane has appeared as the Beauty Presenter for This Morning, ITV1’s flagship daytime show for five years. Five years ago, Ariane launched a make-up range reflecting her dream of creating a line of cosmetics that were not only fashionable and innovative but quick and easy to use and above all, a problem solver for make-up dilemmas. Celebrity followers: Rachel Weiss, Sharon Osbourne, Kirsty Gallagher, Cilla Black, Sue Barker, Tess Daley, Melanie Sykes and Lisa Snowdon.

Ariane’s predictions: Spring 2012 has an abundance of

sugary, almond pastel colours that have an ethereal and uplifting quality. In contrast to the economic austerity we currently live in, fashion and beauty is leaning towards the soft and feminine. It should, however, come with a note of caution as too much pastel can look sugary. Reserve pastels for the outside of the eyelids or under the arch of the brow to add brightness but use taupes, browns and greys along the base of the lashes to add definition.There’s a lot of co-ordination going on with a trend to match eyeshadows to clothes.Blusher is important – a flush of colour on the cheeks, in tones of apricot and warm pinks, applied slightly lower than the apple, gives a very on-trend look. The aim is to create a look of health and glowing vitality. Eyeliner is big news for 2012 particularly liquid, from blacks, browns to purples. A lot of the catwalk models had drawn-on cat-like eyes but if this is a bit over-the-top for everyday, start by extending the eyeliner past the corner of the eye and flicking up the end. White eyeliner, applied on the inside of the eye gives a doe-eyed look and adds innocence and is great for all ages. Finish with lashings of mascara.

Lips, this season, come in all shades of pink. The red lipsticks that are around tend to be a stain rather than full-on lipstick.Bronzer is still very important for accenting and framing the face.

Star products: Ariane Poole White Eyeliner; Dior Rosy Glow Blush;and Dior Garden Pastels eye palette.

John Gustafson

Biog: John has been a celebrity make-up artist for over 30 years. He has appeared on numerous television fashion and beauty programmes and is a regular contributor to many magazine beauty pages. For the last 12 years he has provided individual one-to-one sessions at Fenwick of Bond Street to independently choose the most appropriate and effective skincare and makeup products to suit each client and her budget. (Booking fee is £100 of which £50 is redeemable on any purchase made T: 020 7409 9823).

Celebrity followers: John likes to keep his client list private but he has done numerous catwalk designer collections in both London and Paris for Vivienne Westwood, Jasper Conran, Workers for Freedom, Anthony Price, Amanda Wakeley to name but a few.

John’s predictions:Colour is by far the biggest news.

the coloursof

As sure as day follows night and spring follows winter, the colours of the cosmetic counters are changing hue. Three international celebrity make-up artists give their take on this season’s offerings and the products to watch.

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Gorgeous candy-shop colour. For eyes, nails, lips, and cheeks. Be experimental and don’t assume you can’t wear them until you try them. Because along with the amazing colours are sheer reflective textures that make many colours more wearable than they would first appear. For me, age makes the biggest decision on how far you can follow these trends. At 16: you can do them all! At 20-25 choose a couple for your face and a great nail colour. When you have to start asking yourself if it is appropriate: maybe choose a couple. And eventually…ask yourself what your best feature is and follow the trend there and tone down the rest!

As I said: textures are uber-light and reflective. A perfect example is Chanel’s Harmony of Precious Materials cream shadows. Introduced in the autumn but now a permanent addition. Perfectly sheer and subtly metallic, and extremely versatile. They allow each individual to play with texture whether she is 12 years of age or 112. Apply the sheer mousse-like texture sparingly for a last day look and then amp it up by re-applying full strength for a look like molten metal. Personal favourites are the Illusiore, Epatant, and Mirifique. Fingertips work best and anyone can look like a makeup artist with a one or two practice runs.

There are a lot of greens around this season. For me, the standout eyeshadow collections are Dior’s Garden Pastels – a warmer collection of greens and Guerlain’s Les Aquas which are cooler. I find both very wearable and flattering. Trendsetters and makeup junkies can wear them as they are, whilst more conservative or mature women can use them to modernize and update.

Lips are candy coral and pretty pinks but mostly on the lighter and brighter sides. I advise women mid-forty plus to be careful with some of these as they can give a “no-lip” appearance. Or even worse – date you! Better to go for something with a little more depth in colour, but sheer. Maybe full pigment gloss for day and lipstick at night.

Another story looks to be eye-popping blushers such as the lurid pink from Dior and a vibrant striped concoction ranging from apricot/coral/bubble gum from Chanel. They look frightening in the palette but are actually so sheer that they just give a flush to the cheeks. Stunningly beautiful.

Highlighting products are included

in a lot of collections this spring. I advise my clients to stand under a light and where the light falls: that is where to apply the highlighter. If you are concerned about being “age appropriate” try a more opal or sheeny product and leave sparkly ones to the younger and more experimental. But you are never too old to look radiant! Look at the gorgeous Cruel Gardenia from Guerlain. A sculpted, shimmering take on their famous meteorites powder. Almost too pretty to use…

Star products:Yves Saint Laurent Volupté Sheer Candy Lipstick; No7 Sweet Fig;Blush Horizon de Chanel;Dior Garden Pastels eyeshadows;Chanel Rouge Coco Destinee lipstick;Clarins Poppy Red lipstick;Guerlain Cruel Gardenia Highlighter.

Mary Greenwell

Biog: Mary started her career whilst living in Los Angeles selling the exclusive make up line Il Makiage at Fiorucci. Her first job was making up the 14 year-old Brook Shields for photographer, Scavullo, in New York. Mary later returned to London and built up her portfolio working with Paris-based photographers like Pamela Hanson. She was soon working for all Vogue magazines on a weekly basis. Mary is especially well known for helping transform Princess Diana from a young, camera-shy girl into a confident, beautiful woman. Mary launched her first perfume in 2010 called PLUM. “Fragrance is always the last touch of magic to any look I create...”Celebrity followers: Uma Thurman, Cate Blanchet, Gwyneth Paltrow and Kate Winslet.

Trends: Texture is key and cosmetics are now so advanced that textures are super refined. Like last season, iridescence and a dewy appearance is very important. I can’t foresee make-up ever going back to matt. This season’s apricot and pink blushers are super sheer, fresh and light reflecting and emphasis is achieved by applying in layers.

`  Spring 2012 collections abound with sheer moisturizing lipsticks that are prettier and have more staying power than glosses. The latter can look a bit too Essex! Lips are a combination of both brights and nudes.

`  Primers are useful to give skin that sought-after glowing appearance that is further enhanced by the sheer formulation and light textures of today’s foundations. Women over thirty should all wear a light foundation under their make-up. I love Estee Lauder’s Daywear.

`  Re eye colour shades – it’s funny how blues and greens look silly worn in the winter but come the spring, all of a sudden they look fresh and wearable. Personally, I love rusts and taupes for blue eyes; greys for green eyes, whilst brown eyes, I feel can wear pretty much any colour.

Star products: The Chanel eyeshadows, Harmony of Precious Materials, launched last autumn, and kept as a permanent addition to the range, have been very influential – their creamy texture gives a beautiful powdery appearance. Thanks to its translucent silicone-based formula, the pure pigments accentuate the intensity of colours and their iridescent reflections.

Armani’s Eyes to Kill and Tom Ford’s new eyeshadows are both gorgeous in texture.

Yves Saint Laurent’s lipsticks have great pigments.

Guerlain’s Terracotta Bronzing range is the best bronzer ever invented!

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Clarins eye up springClarins Eye Quartet Mineral Palette - A collection of four satin smooth, wet and dry formula mineral eye shadows in subtle spring shades of turquoise and grey-green, partnered by a soft flannel grey to define the eyes and an illuminating white for highlighting.

On the lash with GuerlainGuerlain’s Noir G ingenious new mascara is fragranced, contains a handy-mirror and is refillable. Pull the top to reveal the refill. Just trigger a secret click on the top of the cap to release it and insert another. Noir G has been formulated on the basis of blacker, glossier, new-generation Ultra Black pigments. A magnifying effect amplifies the intensity and depth of the black.

Guerlain sees greenGuerlain’s Les Aqua palette contains shimmering iridescent petrol blue, sophisticated matte navy, velvet satin turquoise and glacier blue.

YSL pays lip serviceYSL Volupte Sheer Candy gives the lips a veil of shiny colour that tastes like a ripe plump mango and melts on the lips, sculpting them with a bright, sorbet shine. N°7 Figue Gourmande shown here is a fleshy, carmine red.

Lancôme spares blushesLa Roseraie Blush evens out and illuminates skin with a sheer veil. Its rosy shade brightens the complexion, while the peach hues warm the face. The hint of green mother of pearl corrects redness.

Chanel looks to new HorizonsPeter Philips has created a multiple palette in a reflection of this versatile season. Thanks to new multi-compaction technology, Blush Horizon de Chanel offers an unprecedented combination of five tones in the same case.

Chanel gets lippyFresh, flattering and easy to wear, the lipsticks in the Rouge Coco range welcome the spring with a smile. Paradis is coral pink, fresh and sun-kissed in one, whilst Destinee is intense and enigmatic plum.

Armani’s Luce eyesArmani eye palettes feature soft pastels and instantly updated with a hit of antique gold in a myriad of ways. “Luce d’oro”, a precious new pigment is added to eyeshadows, which gives luminosity to the eye.This season’s two fashion must-haves for spring: First palette combines soft pastels with the luster of antique gold. Second palette features a harmony of gold and copper accented with moonlight silver.

Dior wins top marks!One of the most praised collections this season is Dior’s Garden Party.Dior’s award-winning and iconic 5 Couleurs palette is reinvented as a charming Collector’s Edition, with roses embroidered across the surface of the eyeshadows. This comes in two seductive colour combinations: the Garden Pastel harmony, which floats between flowers and foliage with its pale pink, buttercup yellow and luminous greens, and the Garden Roses harmony, which is a vision of romantic pinks, Parma violet and silver, accentuated by a dramatic purple.

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Arizona delightsThe latest offering from Tom Pecheux, Estee Lauder’s Creative Makeup Director, was inspired by holidaying in Arizona – warm sun, wonderful desert colours. He said: “I was thinking of a gorgeously healthy-looking woman that had an element of fantasy in her personality and wanted to convey that with a palette of strong, yet soft colours.”The limited edition Pure Color Five Color EyeShadow Palette in Topaz Mosaic contains a mix of five sun-drenched neutral desert tones with an unexpected burst of citron yellow in the middle. To create a strong, yet invitingly warm eye, simply layer the neutral bronze, taupe and sand dune shades.

Classic beautyThink buttery soft skin, with a flawless matte finish, bright eyes with a natural sparkle and defining arches for beautifully shaped brows…think New CID Cosmetics as they present their latest spring/summer trends. Emphasis should be put on bright eyes and dewy skin to offset dramatic statement lips. Reawaken eyes with New CID’s i-open – a double-ended

retractable cream pencil for general touchups. Lips should be dramatic so coat them in New CID’s smooth i-pout in Scarlet. A deep long-lasting, high pigmented lipstick with

the addition of a built in light and mirror.

Dior’s flush of natural colourFor the cheeks, the limited edition Dior Rosy Glow blush enhances the face with a natural, healthy glow. Fresh Colour Reveal Technology enables the blush to intuitively adjust to the moisture level of each skin type to give a fresh, customized colour. “Frighteningly pink in the palette but so sheer on that it is beautiful”, says John Gustafson.

Be a natural nude with Bobbi BrownBe a natural nude with Bobbi BrownBobbi Brown’s Brightening Nudes Collection creates an effect that is sheer and luminous. Bobbi describes this gorgeous collection as “Brightening Nudes makes you look like you’re lit from within.”One of the products from the range is the sheer and silky Brightening Finishing Powder compact, which contains six luminous shades that blend together and gives a beautifully natural, healthy finish to the skin without feeling heavy or weighed down.The full collection is on counter from March 2012.

Dior nails springThe pearls of the Dior collection are to be found in the nail polishes. Dior has created a delight for the hands, with a choice between Waterlily, a soft green, and Forget-me-not, a floral mauve. Flirtatious and elegant, the two Dior Garden Party nail varnish shades are also perfumed with a seductive rose scent.

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