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4 Apparel Online India | APRIL 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com

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CONTENTS April 1-15, 2016

WorldWrapGo Brazil…! Brazil ready to tap onto Olympics opportunitiesSeen amongst the most interesting markets for retail in the future, Brazil is yet again enjoying its growing popularity with the Rio 2016 Summer Olympics slated to take place in August...

BurningIssueNGOs at it again! Findings of ‘Unfree and

Unfair’ on living conditions of migratory workers in Bangalore raise questions on

credibility of such reports

Tex-FilePremiére Vision Paris: Rich fluidity, elegantly bumpy textures, chic plastics, sensual elastics, and frank graphics…Despite the overlapping New York Fashion Week and Chinese New Year – Premiére Vision Paris that brought together 6 shows, proved convenient and a time saver for the industry...

H2FSmaller orders are hurdle to adopt

advanced technology If we keep aside giants of the Indian home furnishing industry and a few mid-level vertically integrated companies, the use of technology,

especially the advanced technology is not very common...

FashionBusinessSuit-Up! Suit Styles ruling the runways of 2016… Power Dressing, as the world knows it, has made suits a ‘must have’ for all working and even non-working women...

ResourceCentreFace to Face with the man behind

TÜV SÜD’s South Asia operationsCEO of TÜV SÜD South Asia Niranjan Nadkarni shares his

views and thoughts on the apparel sector in the region, and his company’s roadmap to help it attain business growth in a highly

competitive environment...

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VOL. XIX Issue 1


11 Apparel Online India


Let me put this straight…, I am totally against the idea of NGOs bringing out reports without talking to companies concerned and also not offering productive solutions!

Reports, just for the sake of reports, only because they bring in the funds, is becoming the norm for international NGOs, and the Indian garment industry is being hauled up for charges that anyone who is working in the industry, including the buyers, will know for a fact is ‘untrue’ and ‘exaggerated’ picture of ground realities that is being spread without even bothering to investigate.

In one of my earlier editorials, which was much appreciated by the industry, I had questioned the accountability of such reports… I remember my conversation with the late Neil Kearney, who was then the General Secretary of the Brussels-based International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers’ Federation (ITGLWF), on what the NGOs expect… His statement, “My job is to point out the problems at factories through reports, if factories close down because of it, I am not responsible for the workers affected!”

This sounds very callous; but over the years we have repeatedly seen companies getting into trouble because of the ‘unverified reports’ of International NGOs… Talking to few disgruntled workers, that too chosen by a local NGO as the representatives of the so-called facts, whereas it may be their personal grievances or unfulfilled expectations that makes them give such statements and coming to such damaging conclusions, certainly does not augur well for the intention of these NGOs.

Some of you may recall the case when Bangalore-based Fibres & Fabrics International (FFI) and its subsidiary Jeans Knit Pvt. Ltd. (JKPL) accused Dutch-based Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) and the India Committee of the Netherlands (ICN) of cybercrime, acts of racist and xenophobic nature and criminal defamation, in an unprecedented legal move.

Last year, Eastman Exports Global Clothing had rubbished the report on the Sumangali scheme in Tamil Nadu factories, published by FNV Mondiaal (International Department of Dutch Trade Union Confederation) and the India Committee of the Netherlands, claiming that such reports are instigated only to tarnish the image of the garment industry in India, to what cause…, no one seems to know!

Now again, ICN is back in action with its report ‘Unfree and Unfair’ implicating exporters of the stature of Shahi Exports, Arvind Ltd., Texport Industries and K Mohan of not looking after its workers placed in hostels properly and restricting their movement to an extent, amounting to ‘bonded labour’!

Over the past decade, Shahi in particular has been taking its factories into the interiors and as of today 18 factories of the 42 factories in Bangalore region are in the villages. These factories have not only given employment opportunities to thousands of people living in the area but have been

economic boosters for the village community… Why the NGOs never praise such efforts at community upliftment?

Are they more bothered that a few workers are unhappy with Shahi because they did not get some utensils, or maybe a mattress! To put the matter in perspective, only 5% of the total women workers’ strength at Shahi is staying in hostels… At Texport it is a mere 0.66% of total strength and at Arvind it is around 7.5%. It is also important to remember that none of these companies own the hostels and are only facilitators to support safe and healthy living conditions.

For companies like the above mentioned ones which diligently spend 2% of average 3 year turnover, which runs in crores on CSR, to say that spending around Rs. 500-600 (US $ 8-9), per worker (an average of what their requirement would be) to provide basic amenities in living and that too when they are admittedly (Thankfully the NGO does admit this!) paying higher than minimum wages, sounds very farfetched… I think the matter is so trivial that is not even worthy of mention in a report… If upon investigations some gap areas for improvement were found, the same should have been reported to the management with suggestions for improvement. That is what the role of an NGO should be!

On the issue of freedom of movement…, the industry is really flabbergasted at the understanding of these international NGOs on what constitutes safety and security measures and what is denial of freedom of movement…? Any parent would want their daughter in their late teens and early 20s to be taken care of at work and off work.

Ensuring that they are safely home at a decent time (before dark) and that they move in groups or are properly chaperoned for added security, cannot be equated to bonded labour… A very baffled industry asks, “Do we not ask our own children, particularly girls, to take safety measures… Then why is it wrong when we say the same to our extended families?”

Further, keeping male guards is a mandatory requirement as women cannot be kept as guards at night… nowhere is it even hinted that the guards misbehaved with the girls… All that the report says is that male guards are kept with the intention to ensure that the girls do not ‘runaway’. How could they come to such a conclusion, is something difficult to apprehend.

The report is obviously lacking in credibility and there is no accountability on how such vague and loosely put together reports can ruin the good work of the industry in worker welfare. The Government also needs to support the industry and put in a strong word while monitoring the NGOs and also the funding channels.

I at times ponder on the actual agenda behind such charade…, is it really to help the people or to justify huge salaries paid for such reports…!

FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’S DESK…

ANOTHER REPORT, ANOTHER SET OF DENIALS… WHEN WILL THE NGOs STOP BRINGING OUT REPORTS WITHOUT VERIFICATION OF FACTS!

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Many State Governments are coming forward with ‘standalone’ textile policies which they claim will not only support the existing industry, but also encourage more investments in the sector. Do you think such policies are really supportive…? Have you seen any benefits accruing from the textile policy in your state…, if yes, please share the areas, and if not, where are the hurdles?

MINDTREE

value. There are still some areas for improvement like we have high power rates; direct export (textile) from Surat is very less which can be multifold. Further, there is high duty on import of machines, in some cases it is up to 28 per cent. Our Government should think how we can compete with those countries which are our competitors. I feel that in India there should be harmony in terms of labour-related laws and should not just focus on small benefits.

Vivek Khandelwal, President, Garment Exporters Association of Rajasthan (GEAR)/MD, Pattern India, Jaipur I don’t see any major benefit at policy level for apparel manufacturing industry especially in Rajasthan state. We, as an association, have requested a training centre as well as a cluster, but none of the requests have been accepted by the Government yet. Rajasthan doesn’t have any budget or funding to support the apparel industry at all. On the other side, I would like to say that most of the states claim good investment as a result of their own textile policies, but this is not true. Whatever companies are there in this trade, they are fighting to survive and if these policies have some benefit, new companies should come into the business, and which is not happening. Recent example

Arvind Sinha, National President, The Textile Association (India), Mumbai/Chief Advisor, Business Advisors Group Governments are doing their best and one should not blame them. But it is also true that fresh investments are not coming in as enthusiastically as the announcements are made and benefits declared. One has to look at the situation from a different perspective and rethink why orders are still going to Bangladesh, Vietnam, Myanmar, etc. Industry should work towards capacity-building to grab the bulk orders like China does; accordingly the Government support should be planned. The Government should compare the scenario with countries that are our competitors and not with nearby states. Secondly, within policies India has to improve its manufacturing culture, its systems,

approach and infrastructure. Post-quota most of the orders went to Bangladesh, we have still not learnt from that lesson. Our country is a huge democracy and has to work accordingly. The overall business environment is dull and this is also one reason that policies are not showing good results.

Ajoy P. Bhattacharya, Ex-President, The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry (SGCCI)/MD, Surat Apparel Machine Company, Surat Yes, Gujarat has a good, progressive textile policy, especially for spinning sector as major share of Gujarat’s cotton was earlier exported and now hopefully it will be used in the state and supply chain will get more

TO P I C O F D E B AT E

MINDTREE

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 1-15, 2016 | Apparel Online India 15

MINDTREE

in this regard is the excise duty on branded readymade garments, will it not hurt the entire industry... The industry is already facing many challenges at all levels and sadly we see no spirit to support and to promote the industry.

Narinder K Miglani, General Secretary, Knitwear Club, Ludhiana As far as Punjab is concerned, we are quite disappointed. Whatever be the data that the Government claims during investor summits or at any other platform, there is nothing strong at the ground level. Policy is next level, but we are struggling to just get our VAT refund, it has become a major issue. Coming to Ludhiana in particular, despite being textile hub and hub for other industries also, why we don’t have a good exhibition centre? We can’t bring our overseas buyers to Focal Point (industrial area) as there is serious concern of poor road and drainage system. We are struggling to start our Ludhiana Integrated Textile Park despite the fact that we got the support from Centre, as the State Government is asking for development charges while there is no development support from them. We have developed our own sewerage, own ETP. There is no end to such complaints. Whereas textile policies are concerned, I feel that Tamil Nadu and Karnataka are giving good facilities to the

garment manufacturers. Spinning industry in Himachal Pradesh is another good example of good policies.

Anurag Singhla, Honorary Secretary, South India Garment Association (SIGA), Bangalore If we talk about the industry as a whole, some policies of few states clash and which is ultimately not in the benefit of the industry. One can say that Karnataka (Bangalore, in partucular) has very big textile/apparel industry and the state boasts of giants like Madura, Arvind and many more such respected names that are into domestic as well as export industry. But looking to the ground realities, I must say that this is just a rotation of industry, no new name has been added in the industry. Secondly, our state has natural advantage to take stride in gentswear compared to other states which is working like a ‘push’ to the industry. At the Government end, there is more thrust and convergence required, as the state has more scope to grow and achieve more and more in the apparel industry. Our association has been doing efforts for the same but there are no strong results. Whatever announcement – be it regarding investment by any industry player or benefit from Government side – needs a strong follow-up, and which sadly is missing.

The recently concluded Premiére Vision (PV) Paris (16-18 Feb. 2016) witnessed 55,025 visitors from 123 countries. France leads with more than 15,070 visitors while 1,258 visitors were from Japan (10th in rank); however, the event did not notice enthusiastic visitation from India as compared to the size of Indian textile and apparel industry. What could be the reasons for the same? Share your views and experience regarding the same. If you did visit this addition of PV, what did you achieve that others missed…, please share.

Q U E S T I O N

MINDTREE

Be a part of our latest discussions...Post your comments on www.apparelresources.com


The economic implication of the FIFA World Cup in 2014 is still

fresh in everyone’s mind. Brazil’s tourism ministry estimated that the World Cup attracted a million foreign tourists for the soccer tournament, injecting US $ 13.2 billion into the country’s economy (about the same the country invested for preparation) and creating 1 million jobs. But the situation since then has changed and even as Brazil gets ready to host the Summer Olympics, it is mired in political crisis, economic crisis and plagued by the dreaded Zika virus. What used to be a soaring and upswing economy a few years ago is now witnessing a freefall contracting by 3.8 per cent in 2015 and according to economists, it is the worst recession in Brazil in the last 100 years, and some believe the worst ever.

Large scale demonstrations to protest against the Government and demand for the President’s resignation amid charges of widespread corruption are making more news than the upcoming

sports extravaganza, which is even bigger than the soccer world cup. Nonetheless the Brazilian middle-class defined as those who earn between US $ 690 and US $ 2,970 per month is here to stay and even grow! Today Brazil has made a name in the global retail sector because of its middle-class that is empowered with good purchasing power and access to easy credit. The Olympics would be an opportunity for retailers to tap this consumer segment and make the most of this event.

Retail opportunities in Brazil…The Olympics would provide a platform for many billion-dollar sportswear brands to a body-conscious city, Rio de Janeiro, where the biggest global sportswear brands are already doing brisk business. According to Euromonitor International, the Olympic Games provide an irresistible opportunity for brands to captivate consumers with sponsorship deals and marketing campaigns that will play a key role in generating brand awareness and consumer engagement. With over 80 million Brazilian people claiming to be actively engaged in one or more sports, of which approximately half of the population is under 30 years of age, sportswear in Brazil is a lucrative category and Olympics pushes this quotient even further. This can be no better time as the global market for sports apparel, which is already worth US $ 149.6 billion and is likely to grow by 23 per cent to US $ 184.6 billion by the start of the 2020 games in Tokyo, as per Allied Market Research. The above statistics combined with Brazil’s affinity for sports, Olympics 2016 would provide further surge in profits for many retailers.

Encouraged to spend rather than save, has resulted in the rise of a strong Brazilian middle-class, defined as a new class of employed people who are borrowers with the ability to repay. Pumping in a rapid credit growth in their domestic economy, this new generation of consumers has grown from 38 per cent of the population in 2003 to 55 per cent of Brazil’s 191 million inhabitants in 2010 and expected to develop further till 2020. Extremely health-conscious, Brazilians display a typical shopping trait towards sportswear clothing lines endorsed by local celebrities, and tend

BRAZIL READY TO TAP ONTO OLYMPICS OPPORTUNITIES

GO BRAZIL…!

Seen amongst the most interesting markets for retail in the future, Brazil is yet again enjoying its growing popularity with the Rio 2016 Summer Olympics slated to take place in August. The FIFA World Cup 2014 saw a significant surge in business for the country and this time again Brazil is benefiting from major investments in its infrastructure, supported with an escalating emergence of middle-class that is empowered with good purchasing power and access to credit, numerous retailers are cashing on to this opportunity.

WORLDWRAP


to purchase apparel on credit more frequently, than consumers in other emerging markets, making sportswear fashion an important element of the country’s growing economy and lifestyle at large. This will build further during the Rio 2016 Olympics, when the country will see not just their own consumer base, but tourist influx as well.

Sportswear brands to benefit the most…Importantly, the world’s largest sportswear brands are utilizing the opportunity provided by Olympics, which is amongst the world’s largest sports event. Over the last 8 years, Adidas has showed a significant surge in profits and the Olympics would provide further boost to the retailer. In 2008, the year of the Beijing Summer Olympics, the brand was up 4.9 per cent on the previous year with sales totalling US $ 11.9 billion. Though Nike has displaced Adidas as the official sponsor for the games at Rio 2016, which is being reportedly

valued between US $ 25-40 million, nonetheless the retailer would mark its hold by sponsoring individual teams such as France, Canada, Germany, etc.

In the past Nike has used Olympics as a platform to introduce new products and services including its Flyknit shoes and Nike+ activity trackers, and this Olympics would be no different! Cashing on this opportunity are other sportswear brand also, such as Puma, Havaianas – the Brazilian Flip Flop brand, Speedo, Under Armour, Oakley, etc. who are going

ahead and sponsoring individuals and also putting their marketing strategies in place to make the most of the Olympics.

Olympics 2016 for Brazil…According to organisers, official Rio 2016 products are expected to generate about US $ 260 million in sales within Brazil alone, with 30 per cent of these sales attributed to international visitors. This boost will be good for Brazil as Olympics is attracting international manufacturers, which are subsequently increasing their product offers, leading to a more competitive marketplace with better visibility. Yet concern remains, with Olympics round the corner and demonstrations increasing, it still needs to be seen whether the Olympics would provide only a temporary relief for Brazil like the FIFA World Cup or turn around things for what was supposed to be the most promising emerging markets in retail!

WORLDWRAP


The interviews of the migrant workers and members of the Garment Labour Union

(GLU) in Bangalore were conducted in two phases, in October 2013 and again in December 2014, and discussions with workers from other factories took place in August and September 2015. The findings of the report were shared with top buyers, like C&A, H&M, Inditex, PVH and Gap who have responded extensively to the findings and pledged to improve the living conditions of garment workers at their suppliers’ factories.

Though the findings of the report is damaging to the reputation of the companies…, why no one thought it necessary to ask the companies for answers, is a mystery also; surprising is the fact that such damaging reports are brought out time and again despite both the suppliers and buyers strongly negating the findings. Earlier also the report on Sumangli practice in South India had been refuted with strong evidence by the industry, and in particular those named in the report.

MAJOR FINDINGS OF THE REPORT…

Facilities

It is claimed that none of the hostels provide any kind of recreational facility or cultural and educational programmes; in fact some of the women workers at Shahi Exports expressed their desire for a television. All the hostels lack basic

amenities such as proper furniture, cupboards for storage, beds and mattresses. K Mohan provides a straw mattress, rug and pillows. At Arvind, the workers do not have any facilities other than bunk beds without mattresses. Except for a cooking gas connection, no other facilities are provided at Shahi Exports and workers have to buy their own bed and mattresses. Texport however provides the workers with a bed and a cooking gas connection.

At Arvind, about 70 workers stay on each floor. The accommodation provided is in a large hall, which is divided into compartment rooms with three-tier bunk beds. The toilet and bathroom is shared by 12 to 14 workers. The workers have to cook their own food next to the bunk beds, since there is no kitchen facility in the hostel. The factory has appointed maintenance staff, but workers complained that it is not always clean. Irregular water supply is another issue pointed out by them, which affects their ability to cook food.

The report claims that in 2013, K Mohan had separate hostels for migrant workers from North India, who had to pay Rs. 2,000 for food and accommodation. On the other hand, the local workers paid only Rs. 1,300 to Rs. 1,400 per month in their own hostels. The workers also stated that the food served was mostly rice and sambhar, which is uncommon to their food habits, as they are used to eating North Indian dishes like chapattis, dal and rice.

NGOs AT IT AGAIN!FINDINGS OF ‘UNFREE AND UNFAIR’ ON LIVING CONDITIONS OF MIGRATORY WORKERS IN BANGALORE RAISE QUESTIONS ON CREDIBILITY OF SUCH REPORTS Implicates irregularities with regard to hostel facilities and freedom of movement

Shahi Exports, Texport Industries, Arvind Ltd. and K Mohan named in the report

Exporters strongly refute charges in reply to AO’s fact-finding initiative; unhappy that time and again international agencies bring out reports without clarifications from companies named

Apparel Online was surprised to see a report ‘Unfree and Unfair’ recently, wherein the India Committee of the Netherlands (ICN), an independent NGO has made some serious allegations against India’s top exporters in Bangalore that run hostel facilities for their workers. On the base of desk research and interviews with 110 migrant workers from rural Karnataka and other states like Uttar Pradesh, Jharkhand, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh, employed at four garment factories – Shahi Exports, Texport Industries, Arvind Ltd., and K Mohan in Bangalore, the ICN claims that garment workers still face serious issues like poor living conditions and has restricted freedom of movement despite stated commitments on the part of big brands to address these problems. Ironically, the very lopsided report with no discussion or clarification from the company owners in a positive feedback, admits that the wages at all the four factories are slightly above the minimum wage rate fixed by the State Government.

BURNINGISSUE


Workers’ freedom

Workers’ freedom of movement is considerably restricted. Women workers are only allowed to leave the hostel once a week, which is usually for two hours on Sundays. They can only leave the hostel after registering with the security guard. The workers usually go out together and use this time to buy groceries and personal items. Returning late invites rebuke and sometimes punishment in the form of being made to wait outside the gate for hours till the warden allows them in. Women workers are instructed to go to their hostels immediately after work and are not allowed to go anywhere else. Their movement is severely restricted and they are herded to the factory and back to the hostel as a daily routine.

The report underlines that migrant women are often housed in hostels run by their companies and guarded by male security personnel at night. The young women have been made to believe that these hostels, posing restrictions on their freedom of movement and the presence of male security guards at night, is for their own security only in an alien city where they are isolated from the local people. Yet, one worker said that the guards are appointed “…to ensure that we do not leave for our villages after taking our salary.” At Shahi Exports, women workers were under the impression that they were coming to Bangalore for a six months’ training with a stipend, but realized after getting there that it was a permanent factory work.

The migrant workers cannot communicate properly (due to language barrier) with the security guards, managers or co-workers at their factory. This makes them more vulnerable to exploitation. A male worker at Arvind states, “Nothing is good. But we are staying here because we have to live and there is no other way.” They also prefer to stay at the hostel as they are unfamiliar with the place and culture. One worker said, “I am from a different place and I speak a different language. I don’t know about the situation here. So I took the company hostel.” A group of workers from other factories said that they are scolded regularly by their supervisors.

Young workers hint at abuse but refuse to speak directly about it for fear of repercussion.

Some other allegations

Few points in the report are generic and not specific to the above factories. It is claimed that “A worker from an unknown factory, whom the researchers met by chance, said that she was 17 years old. Some of the workers look like they could be 16 years old”. With the industry well attuned to issues of child labour, it is hard to believe that any factory will employ migratory women workers under 18. A group of migrant workers from other factories reportedly told the researchers that the factory management had said that they were not entitled to a Provident Fund because they were from North India.

When Apparel Online contacted the companies for their reactions, all of them were extremely ‘unhappy’ with the damaging report brought out by ICN and at the same time were delighted that we have taken up the responsibility to put the allegations to rest. All four companies have already written to their buyers clearing the matter, and buyers too have shown faith in the companies. Reproduced are the clarifications from each…; it is time that the industry strongly condemns such reports.

POINTS MADE BY SHAHI EXPORTS IN ITS CLARIFICATION…

The report is indeed unfair to us and totally biased, based on a selective interview of 11 workers whose background is not known to us. The motivation is to create sensation in the industry with the help of some local unions who are keen on disturbing balance and industrial peace. Nonetheless, we would like to clarify on the issues raised in the report.

The same report on “migrant workers’ hostels” in Bangalore by ICM/SOMO was sent to us by Gap in November 2015. We were

advised that all brands like PVH, H&M, Walmart, C&A, M&S, Columbia, Primark, Inditex and a few others wanted to meet us on hostel issues in Bangalore. Accordingly, all these brands including Li & Fung met our team on 22nd December 2015. All points were clarified during the meeting and apparently all the brands were satisfied with the clarifications given by Shahi and its future approach of engaging an independent NGO to take care of hostel facilities and concerns, if any.

Shahi is the largest employer in garment industry, employing almost 100,000 workers. Shahi is following all the local labour laws and fully compliant in all

respects. Buyers have no concern with Shahi

as far as factory compliance is

concerned. Almost 70% workers are female workers and some of them migrate from rural and

tribal areas of different states for

employment.

Knowing fully-well that the migrant workers

will face difficulties in getting suitable accommodation and other facilities, Shahi facilitated in this respect in arranging accommodation so that the migrant workers feel safe and comfortable while working in Shahi. However, Shahi does not own any hostels as made out in the report.

Shahi also does not restrict movement of the workers in any way. However, since they are the employees of Shahi, reasonable care is taken for their safety and security. This, in any way cannot be construed as unnecessary restriction on their movement. They are free to move. But they are expected to take some precautions. This is nothing beyond a parental care which any employer has to take for their workers when they are especially migrant and do not have any local contacts. They are free to move on Sundays during

The brands have personally visited the hostels and are satisfied with the living conditions. Using words like “modern day slavery” is just to sensationalize the issue without any base.

BURNINGISSUE


the day time. In case they have to be away beyond 7:00 PM, they have to inform warden of their respective hostel. Even their parents are worried about their safety when they are alone in unknown city. Some guidance is necessary and it is in the interest of their safety.

The brands have personally visited the hostels and are satisfied with the living conditions. Using words like “modern day slavery” is just to sensationalize the issue without any base. It is to be noticed that no untoward incident has happened as far as their safety and security is concerned. It is equally untrue that they are allowed to leave hostels for two hours a week and punishment is given if they are late. Such statements in ICN report are totally unfounded.

Gap had taken initiative to represent all the brands who met our team on 23rd Dec. 2015. They have appreciated our initiative of engaging NGO and we are working on the same. We have had deliberations with the NGO and soon we will be coming to conclusion.

ARVIND LTD. HAS PUT FORWARD THE FOLLOWING ARGUMENTS…

Arvind is committed to be compliant and remain employer of choice. Also to provide safe and hygienic work atmosphere to the workforce as they are most important asset. We are currently engaged in multi-stakeholder discussions with the sustainability teams of different brands we work with and are further willing to implement any suggestion, which makes the life of our people staying in these places much more comfortable.

1. Accommodations are an arrangement for the migrant labour from within and outside state coming to work with us in factories situated in proximity. However, Arvind directly does not run these facilities but in no way absolves itself from the responsibility of providing good living conditions at these facilities for the people staying

here. Arvind provides the basic infrastructure of cots, mattress, bedsheets and utensils for cooking food.

2. The arrangement facilitates stay for the initial period, and it has been noted that many workers also move out of this transit place and settle in other localities based on their needs/requirements due to affiliation, marriage, etc. There is no compulsion from Arvind’s side for workers to use these facilities and it purely is on need basis. Arvind garment business directly employs close to about 12,000 associates for its various garment activities and only about 900 are housed in these facilities.

3. The accommodations are owned and managed

by owners and they are assured for

a consistent payment by the Arvind Limited throughout, regardless of the number of

people staying in these places.

4. Regular meetings are held with

people staying in these accommodations by respective factory representatives and minutes are recorded. The accommodations are accessible to Brands/Buyer’s and any other authorised person/agency in this regard. We have had affirmative reports of compliance and no major lapses are reported so far.

5. The freedom of movement of inmates of these accommodations is ensured and at the same time in event of any medical help, emergency speedy help is provided round the clock. They are also enjoying leaves whenever they need it. We do provide a hostel warden and security at these places at our cost.

RESPONSE FROM TEXPORT INDUSTRIES…

Texport employs 12,000 people out of which we have only 80 migrant workers which is only 0.66% of our total strength. This can be

audited by any third party. We have hired these 80 -odd workers as a part of CSR to give back to the society. We train them free of cost and then pay for their house and provide basic facilities, also free of cost. This is helping us train and employ people who are otherwise unemployed. In this process, we pay them higher salaries from locals and provide various ‘free’ facilities as mentioned in the ICN report. Under any circumstance we have no intention of exploiting people especially when we have nothing to gain looking at the strength. As for the concerns specific to Texport mentioned in the ICN report…, point by point reply is as under:

No Reponse to researchers & denying access – Texport has never been contacted for any information or access from any researcher. After this report we have again informed to all our customers that we are open to share all information and visits.

Texport Running Hostel – Texport does not run any hostel and has only facilitated the 80 workers to stay at a housing run by a Government-recognized NGO called “Janodaya”. They run various women hostels across Bangalore. Credential of Janodaya can be verified through their website (www.janodaya.org). We only refer workers to Janodaya and it is up to them whether they want to provide them accommodation in their housing. The residential facilities occupied by these workers are individual apartments situated in a community dwelling having other families staying in this complex. These other families are in no way connected with Texport or our locals in the area who could be working in other factories.

Living Conditions – The ICN report clearly mentions that in case of Texport, living condition are better with 5 to 6 workers sharing a kitchen, room and a toilet. The report also mentions that Texport provides cooking gas and bed and does not charge anything for the same. As a part of CSR activities we

The regular meetings are held with people staying in these accommodations by respective factory representative and minutes are recorded. We have had affirmative reports of compliance and no major lapses are reported so far.

BURNINGISSUE


have also provided them with free cooking utensils and other furniture so that they can cook food as per their liking. They are also expected to clean their own house.

Freedom of Movement – Since these so-called hostels are not run by Texport we have no control over them. The worker has voluntarily chosen to stay in Janodaya housing and vice-versa. However, after the report we have conducted our own audit and below are the findings:

Though the community complex where the workers are residing are safe, however a security guard is posted during the night. During the day, all workers are at the factory and in case any worker from the facility has not reported, the HR team visits their residence to know the reason of absence from duty and help them for any assistance. Example: Medical care for sickness etc.

Posting of Male Guards at Night – The Govt. regulations do not allow a lady to be deputed as guard between 7 pm and 6 am as employment of ladies between this period comes with a lot of conditions related to their safety; thus only few industries employ them at night such as IT, ITES and BPO industries. Thus employment of a male guard is an inescapable eventuality. Male guards are deployed for the safety of inmates at night and not to curb their freedom of movement which is very essential.

Workers are free to move in and out of the hostel, subject to applicable rules and regulation of Janodaya related to hostel management which are mainly meant for orderly operation of the hostel and safety of workers as they are from an outside place. Workers have absolute freedom of association and we have not come across any single instance indicating otherwise. Also

during the day, if a worker has to move out of the factory due to any pressing reason during working hours, s(he) can do so by informing the immediate boss of the reasons to this effect.

All the inmates of the Janodaya facility have to register with Janodaya and their personal file is maintained giving all the details related to the inmate. A Janodaya female consular is in charge of each facility and in case of any emergency 24 x 7 helpline by Janodaya is available displayed at the facility.

A detailed review of the ICN report published would show that we are doing much more than our peers and also the local law requirements. However at the same time we are also open to any suggestions which can help us to make a difference.

ACTIONS COMMITTED BY BUYERS AFTER ICN SHARED THE DRAFT REPORT WITH THEM

C&A’s actions on the ground are two-fold; they have taken individual efforts to further investigate conditions at Shahi Exports (one of the garment factories mentioned in the report and a long-term supplier for C&A), and they work together with Inditex and H&M towards a coordinated and collaborative approach. With this collaborative approach they want to ensure freedom of association, liaising with local trade unions GLU (Garment Labour Union) and GATWU (Garment and Textile Workers Union), and to empower migrant workers with training and a grievance handling system, with support of a social entrepreneurial initiative Gram Tarang.

C&A also said, “It’s important to emphasize that, Shahi Exports Unit 14 and Unit 19 had disclosed 4 hostels. During the current visit, we came across that there were 2 additional hostels not previously disclosed. That fact indicates that different conditions could be found in those undisclosed hostels and further investigations have already started in this regard.”

H&M decided to apply multi-stakeholder developed dormitory

guidelines for all hostels in the H&M supply chain and reinforce the guidance for migrant workers is followed at the hostels and in accordance with applicable existing laws. It will review curfew regulations at hostels provided to workers in H&M supply chain, and evaluate freedom of movement vs. safety. It will also assess whether hostels in H&M supply chain are in need of above law improvement to ensure an acceptable living standard. It will develop third party system for grievance handling from workers accommodated in hostels with local NGO and ensure the NGO gets access to hostel and interact

with workers living in the hostels.

Inditex will conduct a baseline assessment

through a NGO, to get better understanding of the status of migrant workers (along with the conditions of

accommodation facilities

wherever provided) at the premises of all

the suppliers and factories. Initially this assessment will be done for the suppliers and factories based in south of India and then it will be expanded to rest of the supply chain in India. It will implement a project (on the outcome of this assessment) targeting the provision of better hostel facilities, putting in place a grievance handling mechanism and training and counselling sessions for migrant workers and sensitizing management and staff on taking care of the needs of migrant workers.

PVH: “We also recognize this as a complex issue, as the personal safety, fair treatment and freedom of movement of the workers are all of paramount importance. We have asked all the named suppliers to review, consider and report back to us on their individual circumstances. We are also developing guidelines that are intended to address the issues raised, and would require the vendors to comply and ask them to certify to their compliance.”

Work together with relevant local stakeholders. Brands should develop standards for hostels that apply to all suppliers in India. Brands and retailers need to implement a process of human rights’ due diligence in their supply chain.

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Increasingly, the positive trend of the rising numbers of GOTS-

certified facilities continued to grow – from 3,663 facilities in 2014 to 3,814 facilities in 2015. Recognized worldwide, GOTS is the leading processing standard for textiles made with organic fibres. GOTS certified facilities are now located in 68 countries including India, Europe, Turkey, Germany, Bangladesh, China, and many more. The certification enables consumers to purchase items that are certified organic from field to finished product. “Again, the figures show that GOTS’ credible and independent certification of the entire supply chain is an important driver for the business case for sustainability, in contrast to mere self-claims,” shares Claudia Kersten, GOTS Marketing Director.

Till date, GOTS accredited independent certification

bodies report 8,47,749 people working in 2,799 GOTS-certified facilities, which is likely to reach one million soon. “This number is a further indication of the relevance of the Global Organic Textile Standard, in addition to the number of GOTS-certified operations. We will, with the cooperation of the independent GOTS certifiers and academic research, collect and report additional data in order to demonstrate GOTS’ ecological and social impact,” notifies Herbert Ladwig, GOTS Managing Director.

India remained the top country for eighth year in a row with 1,441 GOTS-certified facilities. In India the interest in GOTS-certified organic textile products is on the rise in both consumers as well as industry as it witnessed an increase of brands and stores selling GOTS-certified textiles in retail.

After a year of successfully launching a new clothing

recycling initiative in the US that enabled consumers to recycle clothing and shoes in store to reduce the volume of waste sent to landfills every year, jeans wear major Levi Strauss & Co. is rolling out the same initiative across Europe starting in the UK.

In the UK, consumers can now drop-off any brand of clean, dry clothing or shoes in a specially installed collection box at their local Levi’s store and will receive a voucher for 10 per cent off on a single, regular-priced Levi’s item in-store. Looking ahead to the future, Levi’s seeks to

roll out the initiative across the rest of Europe by the end of 2017. Every year, the UK discards 350,000 tonnes of unwanted clothing into unsustainable landfills in the country.

“We’re thinking about sustainability across all facets of our business and how to shift consumer behaviour to make recycling clothing the norm. Collecting used clothing at our stores makes it simple and easy for consumers to do their part and builds upon our commitment to do the right thing for the environment,” says Michael Kobori, Vice president of Sustainability at Levi Strauss & Co. Expanding clothing and shoe recycling is the latest endeavour in LS&Co.’s

broader sustainability goal of creating an infrastructure that supports a circular economy. The clothing recycling program in Europe builds upon an ongoing partnership with I:Collect (I:CO), a solutions service provider for reuse and recycling of apparel, footwear and other textiles.

Textile workers take stand against racism in South AfricaSouth African Clothing and Textile Workers Union (SACTWU) took to the streets of Cape Town, in protest against racism, with a clear message to end to all forms of racism as well as xenophobia. Teamed up with Independent News & Media SA, owners of the Cape Times started the campaign “Racism. It Stops With Me”.

Andre Kriel, General Secretary of SACTWU said, “As a trade union with one of the most racially diverse membership profiles in the country, SACTWU wishes to be at the forefront of this anti-racism campaign. Often workers bear the brunt of racist attacks in the workplace, and generally in society. It is important that the ongoing scathing attacks on our human dignity

GOTS continues to grow with more certified facilities

Levi’s begins clothes recycling

be arrested, if we are to help prevent our country from facing an explosion of racial hatred. This cannot be good for socio-economic stability, nor for nation-building.”

Kriel further added, “It is important that the ongoing scathing attacks on our human dignity be arrested, if we are to help prevent our country from facing an explosion of racial hatred. This cannot be good for socio-economic stability or nation-building.” Earlier in February, SACTWU embarked on a comprehensive anti-racism campaign. The campaign had gained the required momentum in Independent Media’s 20 newspaper titles and digital platforms, with the media group encouraging debate and discussion on public platforms, in schools and universities around the country.

SUSTAINABILITY

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TEX-FILE

Despite the overlapping New York Fashion Week and Chinese New

Year – Premiére Vision Paris that brought together 6 shows, proved convenient and a time saver for the industry. The event witnessed 55,025 visitors (France leading with more than 15,070 visitors) from 123 countries who discovered the collections and new product developments proposed by 1,725 selected exhibiting companies from spinners, weavers, accessory makers, design studios, tanners and furriers, fashion manufacturers – including 145 new companies. This high-level participation is exceptional for the sector. Coming from 52 countries after rigorous selection, they were presenting their latest creative developments for spring/summer 2017. Out of 1,725 exhibitors, maximum 777 were in fabric section followed by 285 in accessories and 270 in leather segment…; maximum exhibitors (671) were from Italy.

New fashion directions were on fire and there was a clear incitement to refine anything rudimentary with developments that were rich in poetry and technology. It took an offbeat approach to romanticism, posing a tart softness on naive florals and patterns, offsetting it with a rebellious, surreptitiously perturbing spirit.

Developments swung the experimental towards reality in radiant realisations, transparencies with substance, rich fluidity, elegantly bumpy textures, chic plastics, sensual elastics, and frank graphics. Colours evoke a decisive emphasis on pale and warm tones, and don’t combine neutrals other than to reveal a tasty, floral or artificial radiance. “I come every season. We always take the time to attend because these are the most important shows for us. We especially love the special areas like Maison d’Exceptions, which are quite inspiring,” said Emily Robson, Head of R&D at Christopher Kane (UK) echoing the thoughts of most of the quality visitors.

During the event, Première Vision also organized a conference presenting the new panorama of global sourcing. Based on a study conducted by the IFM (French Institute of Fashion), and moderated by Gildas Minvielle, Director of Economic Observatory, IFM, the conference proposed a roundup and analysis of the mapping of global sourcing.

Survey of 100 brands and labels, conducted by the IFM indicated that the map of global apparel sourcing is evolving and nothing will be the same as before: China (with 39 per cent of market share) remains, of course, the leading supplier to the EU and the USA in clothing, but it is now strongly challenged by other Asian countries (Bangladesh, Vietnam, Cambodia), which are growing in strength and tracing new routes for textile industry supply. In the EU, where clothing imports rose by 10.2 per cent (¤ 80.9 billion), those from China showed positive growth (6.9 per cent), but lower volume of (-) 12.2 per cent. This is as opposed to Bangladesh (24 per cent in value, 3.6 per cent in volume), Cambodia (32.4 per cent in value, 13.4 per cent in volume) and Vietnam (24.3 per cent in value, 2.4 per cent in volume).

It also claimed that some 49 per cent of those replying to the survey

The event witnessed 55,025 visitors from 123 countries

believe that supplies from China will decrease in 2016 in favour of the Bangladesh-Cambodia-Vietnam trio (Vietnam having become the second leading supplier to the USA). This change will maximize the margin between the cost and sales price. The three countries have very highly equipped factories and a high quality labour force, often due to Chinese investments. According to the report, Myanmar is emerging in the market, but there will be a need to wait for another 5 to 6 years (the time to train the workforce and create infrastructure) before it becomes truly operational. The year 2016 should also mark a rise in supplies from Turkey (65 per cent of those interviewed were convinced of this), and Morocco, while Tunisia – already stalled in 2015 at (-) 5.4 per cent in value and (-) 6.5 per cent in volume – is expected to show a further decline. The survey says nothing about India, which unfortunately reflects the stagnant state in which the Indian sourcing has got into in the EU. On the question of impact of increase in cost of production on the sale prices, 54 per cent of respondents opted for ‘partial’ impact, while it will ‘not’ happen according to 36 per cent.

Premiére Vision ParisRICH FLUIDITY, ELEGANTLY BUMPY TEXTURES, CHIC PLASTICS, SENSUAL ELASTICS, AND FRANK GRAPHICS…


Coming as quite a good news for the textile industry in

Haryana, the State Government, in its Budget, announced exemption of tax on cotton yarn manufactured in the state.

Announcing a ‘no new tax’ Budget, Haryana Finance Minister Captain Abhimanyu made the textile industry particularly happy with its initiative in regards to cotton yarn manufacturing. Industry experts feel that this has been a good step by the Government,

since this has been pending from several years now.

Panipat Exporters Association President Prem Vij said, “We have been demanding for this from many years now. It had been causing a lot of paper work and blocking cash flow. But that will not happen now.”

In another major move, the Government has reduced the tax rate on footwear, priced above Rs. 500 (MRP), from 12.5 per cent to 5 per cent, and also exempted shoe uppers from VAT. This will

encourage setting up of more footwear industries in the state.

It has been envisaged to impart training to around 1.15 lakh youth per year under Haryana Skill Development Mission (HSDM) for which an outlay of Rs. 25 crore (US $ 4 million) has been proposed in 2016-17 for HSDM as against Rs. 9 crore (US $ 1 million) in 2015-16. The Government proposed an outlay of Rs. 828.80 crore (US $ 127 million) in BE 2016-17 for Industries and Minerals.

Textile industry responds positively to Haryana BudgetTex Find

Remember chia pets…, the American styled terracotta figurines used to sprout chia, where the chia sprouts grow within a couple of weeks to resemble the animal’s fur or hair. Well, the chia pet is back, in wearable form, thanks to Elizabeth Esponette, a product designer from Cornell University. The ‘Chia Vest’, a hooded muslin garment is impregnated with sprouting chia seeds. The wearer’s every exhale yields life-giving carbon dioxide to the embedded plant life, which in turn, gives off oxygen while absorbing toxins and other pollutants.

Cut pieces of muslin were laid on a foam mannequin that the designer saturated with water and then planted the chia seeds, which germinated into tiny sprouts a week later and as the vest continued to grow, it attracted some grazing snails. Interestingly, as long as the wearer exposes it to light and water to feed the photosynthesis process, the garment will continue to evolve like the living entity it is. By manipulating materials we’re comfortable in, and those we are not, she seeks to explore new structural and performance possibilities for the products we use.

A SPROUTS-COVERED VEST TO WEAR

TEX-FILE

The Punjab Government had reserved very little

for the textile and garment industry in the State Budget in its last year in tenure. One of the main demands of the textile industry, which has been fulfilled by the State Government, was the reduction of VAT on cotton and other yarn (excluding 100 per cent polyester filament yarn) from 6.05 per cent to 3.63 per cent. With the reduction of 2.4 per cent VAT on yarn and the state having almost 120 spinning mills, the industry hopes to get a level-playing field and compete with the spinning industry in other states.

Many mills have been facing difficulties due to unfavourable tax regime. While the industry had been expecting a reduction in VAT on finished goods as well, the Government’s decision to favour only yarn disappointed many in the industry. However, the areas that will benefit the textile/apparel industry are an industrial manufacturing cluster, which is to be set up in Rajpura over a 200-acre area, and a Rs. 100 crore (US $ 15 million) allocation for improvement of small industries. State Finance Minister Parminder Singh Dhindsa proposed to launch an

‘entrepreneurship development programme’ for a period of five years. It will offer an interest subvention at the rate of 3 per cent on the loan taken to set up a micro or small enterprise, with investment of up to Rs. 5 crore (US $ 0.77 million). Therefore, for the year 2015-16, an allocation of Rs. 100 crore (US $ 15 million) has been provided for the scheme, which is part of the total outlay on the industry for the next fiscal.

The Government also plans to bring in One Time Settlement policy, under which hundreds of small-scale industrial units financed by Punjab Financial Corporation are likely to be revived. There is an allocation of Rs. 10 crore (US $ 1.5 million) for Focal Points and Rs. 1 crore (US $ 0.15 million) for Northern India Institute of Fashion Technology scheme. Rs 3 crore (US $ 0.46 million) has been allotted to Fashion Technology Institute, Jalandhar as its construction

is in process since the past 5 years, and classes are being organized in building of other institutes. Three new hostels are also going to be built for working women.

The Government’s focus seems to be on skill development and generation of employment of youth, with the proposal of spending Rs. 200 crore (US $ 30 million) on the same. NITMA President Hardyal S Cheema said, “Punjab has close to 165 spinning mills with 4.25 million active spindles with annual consumption capacity of 6.5 million to 7 million bales. Due to higher VAT in Punjab, the textile industry was facing tough times and weaving industry preferred to purchase yarn from spinners from Himachal, UP and Uttrakhand. The spinners from neighbouring states used to sell it at 2 per cent VAT. With this reduction in VAT will help Punjab’s spinning sector compete in the market.”

Little favour in Punjab Budget for state’s textile industry


Traditionally, orders in home fashion segment have been

of smaller lots and the focus has been on value addition. Investing in technology for such a business model did not make commercial sense as the investment in advanced technology is very high and the ROI period too long to justify the investment. Even today most companies, even at the middle-level are reluctant to use advanced technology and though the focus on quality, timely delivery and competitive price points has increased manifolds, the perception regarding technology doesn’t seem to be changing, even in the near future.

Representing the thought-process of many mid-level home furnishing exporters, Anup Pawa, Partner, HV Exports, Jaipur shared his experience, “We source grey fabric and get it printed/washed according to our requirement. Problem starts from here as we are totally dependent on job-work for the same. Process houses or big mills that have advanced technology, which can give required wash effects, prints and other such treatments, don’t accept our small orders; though we offer higher price, but they insist on volume. On the other hand, smaller job-workers who work for us don’t have such systems and technology. It is a catch-22 situation, the big

process houses will not work on small orders and small job-workers will not upgrade their machines as it requires heavy investment and there are environmental issues too.”

Anup further pointed out that when it comes to shop floor, there is requirement of some special work like piping, but specialized machines for this costs almost Rs. 2 lakh, whereas jugaad/local machines, with some modification, give the same quality work and cost just Rs. 15,000. But while using this unprofessional system the time needed to complete the work is much more due to its speed constraint. Machine suppliers are not interested to give such kinds of attachments, as it is not commercially viable for them. “Coming to the value addition segment, investment in digital printing is still an issue, so when we ask for a sample first to a digital printing job-worker, he asks for unjustified rates because our order quantities are small and insist that we directly place the order, which in fact works out more economically, but does not solve our problem with regard to sample approval. Even in Jaipur there are not sufficient digital printing job workers who can do our small orders. We manage the things in difficult ways,” shares Anup. Ten years old HV Exports offers bed covers, curtain,

cushions, etc. for Japan, UK and Australian market.

Though mills agree that they do not feel comfortable working in small quantities, they have their strong logics which reflect on their business model and huge capacity build up which does not allow small quantities viably. However, digital printing job workers do not agree with the statement that they resist giving samples to companies working in small quantities. Parminder Singh, Managing Partner, Digital Fab Creations, Gurgaon, who is job-working for many companies in digital printing says, “We do a lot of sampling for our regular customers and reasonably charge for the same, which our clients understand. As far minimum order quantity is concerned, any order below 200 metres is taken as a sample and charged accordingly.” Having capacity of 1.25 lakh metres per month the company does 30 per cent of its production for home textile-based organizations.

Though South India-based home furnishing companies do face same challenges, they have edge in some areas which can be adopted by others too. N. Satheesh Kumar of Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF), Coimbatore says, “In my personal opinion there is lesser chance for the use of advanced technology if someone is doing

H O M E F A S H I O N F U T U R E

SMALLER ORDERS ARE HURDLE TO ADOPT ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY MANY SMALL INTERVENTIONS CAN MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE…

If we keep aside giants of the Indian home furnishing industry and a few mid-level vertically integrated companies, the use of technology, especially the advanced technology is not very common. Mostly, standard stitching machines and machinery for value addition are in use. Of late some niche technology events, like the Home Fashion Technology Week (HFTW), are coming up with exclusive focus on home textile industry. Even hubs like Panipat and Erode too are witnessing machinery exhibitions, which have attracted the industry. So, is the industry now ready for technology…? Apparel Online takes a look at the ground realities…

Parminder Singh, Managing Partner, Digital Fab Creations

Anup Pawa, Partner, HV Exports


smaller orders. One can invest, but fluctuation of orders is a concern. Yet, many medium-level companies in South India are using ERP and investing in better ways of material movement which helps them in cost cutting as well as ensure more transparency of work. These things can be done with less investment, and the results are significant.” Experts also feel that South India has more use of airjet looms which gives them an edge, especially in more value-added products. Some of them however lack in investing in value-added technology like multi-head embroidery and chest printing machines.

Manjeet Singh Bakshi, CEO, MSB Consulting, Delhi

(organizer of HFTW) feels that there is a lot of scope of technology advancement for the small players. Nowadays various options are available to improve the existing manufacturing process by adding semi-automatic or low-priced equipment which can improve the quality and productivity for them. Also the return on investment is quick.

“Maximum numbers of firms are involved in the made-ups area, Cut-Sew-Finish-Pack and warehousing and these are the areas that have a lot of scope of adding advanced technology. Middle-level companies should now start focusing on Cut-Sew-Pack-Warehouse automations to reduce the number of hands involved in the production process,” concludes Manjeet.

Various designs of HV Exports, Jaipur

H O M E F A S H I O N F U T U R E

SOME INTERESTING TECHNOLOGIES THAT CAN HELP: Magetron, Italy for Cut-

and-Sew automation, for all home textile products like bed linens, curtains towels and bathmats.

Parker Hauser, Germany for cutting and quilting automation.

Espritech, Switzerland for automatic folding machine.

Tuftco, US offering automatic tufting machines for tufting which can replace the hand tufting completely.


Real creativity is reflected when mismatched prints are matched in a way

that colours of the same family intermingle with different prints and patterns. Emilio Pucci used abstract prints in bright shades of orange and blue on their ensembles, whereas Etro mixed stripes and plaid on knitwear silhouettes using multiple colours. While Marni kept the upper half in monochrome shades and the skirt extremely bright, subtly clashing animal and abstract prints, Prada explored the same technique, though their skirts boasted of a half-n-half printed skirt in florals. Marco de Vincenzo didn’t hold back at all as he mixed four different prints with the coat, skirt, top and footwear.

Etro Marco de Vincenzo Calvin Klein

Print Clash

After London and New York, the last word for the fall 2016 previews was left to Milan and Paris, and the collections had plenty to say. On its runways, Paris was full of statement-making, bold trends like head-to-toes sequin and colourful digital prints, eye-catching accessories, and fresh twists on our favourite silhouettes, it’s the place the fashion world relies on to forecast what’s coming next. Milan was all about rethinking suiting, modern plays on nostalgic styles of the ’80s, day-appropriate boudoir dressing, and more. It’s all happening next season but before it does, we’re breaking it down for you. Read on for the seven key trends to know from the Milan and Paris runways…

Fall 2016 Trends

From the catwalk of

Milan & Paris

Marni Emilio Pucci

DIRECTIONS BY


While lurex as a shiny fabric was a big hit in London and New

York, the Italian and French fashion capital’s got a dose of the metallic trend through layers of sequin. Dolce & Gabbana’s entire collection constituted of disco ball-inspired sequin dresses in magenta and shiny silver. Monochrome was the rule of thumb at Chanel that displayed strapless dresses in black sequin and white borders and Gucci mixed patchwork on their relaxed long dresses covered in green sequin. Another great way of wearing sequin is to pair it with sheer fabrics, which gives a hint of shimmer without looking too heavy; Versace and Moschino adopted the same technique on their various dresses with black chiffon or net.

Chanel Dolce & Gabbana Moschino

Covered in Sequin

Embroidery might not be a fresh trend on the runways but this season

witnessed a lot of intricate and rich embroidery on outerwear garments that stood out. The beauty was in the details at Milan and Paris, with meticulously embroidered pieces that deserved second looks. Roberto Cavalli’s opulent looks involved long suede coats that had a jungle theme with monkeys embroidered on them, Etro’s fur trimmed outerwear had Chinese florals that looked beautiful on the puff jackets and Fausto Puglisi mixed sequin with his abstract patterned biker jackets. It was knitwear embroidery for Dsquared2 who presented heavy woollen coatdresses and Alberta Ferretti stuck to what she knows best, pretty floral embroidery running down sheer dresses.

Dsquared2 Etro Fausto Puglisi

Fine Embroidery

Roberto Cavalli

Gucci

DIRECTIONS BY


This fall, the prints were all about chaos and a healthy burst of colour. Digital prints

flooded the runways, appealing to our creative side with new optics and sharp, asymmetric patterns to double the intrigue. Emilio Pucci transported us to the glaciers and hills with their scenic designs of mountains, invoking a visual synergy. Emporio Armani and Marni offered geometrical patterns on woollen knits, skirts and car coats that looked a bit futuristic in style. Prada used patchwork velvet sleeves and cut-outs at the waist to further complicate their digital prints on sleek midi-length dresses and Salvatore Ferragamo printed flouncy skirts with zigzag patterns in all of the primary shades of a spectrum.

Emporio Armani Salvatore Ferragamo Prada

There were plenty of looks that were inspired by the 1980s – from puffed

shoulders to flouncy silhouettes. Isabel Marant led the way with an outing of strong shoulders appearing on oversized sweaters and coats; Lanvin, the French brand presented a collection full of flouncy skirts and defined shoulders. At Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane embraced 1980s inspired silhouettes with party girl mini-skirts in leather and colourful, wide belts. Making his debut at Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia also brought some 1980s silhouettes to the brand’s fall 2016 show; the designer focused on plaid suiting and sculpted sweaters for the collection and it was all about leather, fishnets, and graffiti at Moschino.

Lanvin Moschiino Isabel Marant

’80s Redux

Emilio Pucci

Giamba

Digital World

DIRECTIONS BY


Designers indulged in the Victorian era with a contemporary take

on silhouettes that boasted of ruffles, decorating necklines and tiers, adding dramatic flourishes to the most feminine day dresses and gowns and towering necks. Balmain’s models wore high waist skirts with blouses that had frills on the sleeves, Chanel went for head-to-toe frills on pristine off-shoulder dresses and white lace gloves, while Givenchy too presented cascading frills on short dresses that looked perfect for the daytime. Chloe’s dresses were more relaxed in shades like olive and mustard, diaphanous frills on the waist, sleeves and neckline; Giambattista Valli opted for floral sheer dresses that had frilly bibs and high-necks.

Balmain Giambattista Valli Chanel

Spots have become the new favourite obsession for animal print lovers –

that too, feline spots. Leopard prints made their presence felt on outerwear, separates, and even accessories. Mugler styled a bright yellow knit with a black and yellow leopard print skirt, Givenchy made it all about the coat with brown and black leopard prints, Carven went for short coatdresses that were covered in the print, along with tiger prints. Dries van Noten broke the monotony by using the spots on wide-legged pants, which was a rare site on the runways, with a few labels using it on handbags and shoes, though it was Acne that really stood out for their interpretation of the trend in yellow, green and blue spots on a car coat.

Acne Carven Givenchy

Feline Fury

Dries van Noten

Chloe

Victorian Etiquette

DIRECTIONS BY


Power Dressing, as the world knows it, has made suits a ‘must have’ for all working and even non-working women. And owing to many designers catering to the needs of ‘power dressers’ with multi-faceted designs, the recently concluded Fall 2016 runways witnessed the reign of the suits which appeared in a staggering number of collections and every version attained popularity with its targeted segment. Noticeably trickling-down from the runways to the mainstream, this trend has grabbed the eyes of the exporters, and experimentations to adopt the trend are on, though mostly at a very nascent stage. With growing inclination of women towards androgynous fashion, the simple construction and powerful silhouette make suits a favourite style of the season…

Occasion suits might just be the biggest new thing in fashion, as designers delivered what’s been till today an office or event staple in bright patterns, fresh fabrications, and even deconstructed, giving us suits to wear just about anywhere we want to. This year the pantsuit is having a major comeback, courtesy all the designers experimenting with ’70s inspired suits with high

waist wide legged pants and broad shoulder blazers, or in black tuxedos.

Women’s suits have become for some time now an object of prime necessity in the wardrobe of a business lady. However, lately, thanks to an enormous diversity of designs and styles, suits have begun to be widely used not only in the business arena, but also in casualwear. In general parlance suits imply a lean, professional image for the ladies. But now the concept has evolved considerably to include walking shorts or legging like pants and culottes matched with blazers, cropped jackets and even vests. For the upcoming Fall season, adding to the freshness: plenty of surface interest were seen via lightweight pinstripes, seersucker and blurred plaids. Nandini Pal, Designer, Bershka, ITX Trading SA, INDITEX adds, “While in cotton and linen, the silhouette looks very casual, but the same silhouette when rendered in menswear fabrics, like wool blends, knitted fleece and jacquard, bring out a very sharp and edgy side.”

A suits novelty stands in the variety of cuts, designs, colours and the mix of styles that fashion allows today. From ’70s pantsuits, to tuxedo inspired with V-plunging necklines

and no shirts underneath (massive this season), to ’60s printed pantsuits (think plaid for example), to skinny cut pantsuits, or boyfriend styles. High waist pantsuits are mandatory, to avoid that kitsch 2000s low rise pant cut. The blazer can be either hip-length, longer or shorter, with long or short collar, pockets or not, oversized or slim cut.

Forget the shoulder pads, the bad tailoring, and the corporate executive stiffness that comes along with the idea of the trouser suit. It’s broken out of the cubicle and headed to the runways in a fashion avatar; as seen in cropped, kicky flares at Calvin Klein, slinky and seventies at Christopher Kane, or wide-legged sleek stripes at Chanel. From an eye-popping fuchsia ensemble to a futuristic silk lamé pant and a wool blazer with cut-out shoulders, there is so much to choose from.

WITH CROPPED PANTS

Capri pants are not new in the fashion world and for Fall 2016 these are one of the main trends. The effect of “cropped pants” can be obtained through various ways – either with a special cut or even by ordinary tucking up of the pants. The fabulous combination of cropped pant-suits were seen at Akris,

Suit-Up!S U I T S T Y L E S R U L I N G T H E R U N WAYS O F 2 016 …

Balenciaga

Erdem

FASHIONBUSINESS


1205, Norma Kamali, Theory, Zoe Jordan, Anthony Thomas, Antonio Marras, Diane von Furstenberg, Dolce & Gabbana, and Fendi.

SLEEVELESS

The lack of sleeves covers virtually all types of clothing this season including suits. Jean Pierre Braganza, Diane von Furstenberg, Akris, Creatures of Comfort, Kimora Lee, 1205 Lanvin, Costume National presented us sleeveless jackets and blazers. KK Sadh, MD, Indira Exports, discussing about sleeveless suits said, “Last two seasons saw experimentation with suit sleeves be it kimono style, cut sleeves or long sleeves. But this season is seen eliminating the sleeves completely and becoming a new suit style.”

THE CREATIVE CUT

Modern designers cannot be blamed for lack of creativity and artistic advent. They have passed those times when from season to season the outfits were not changing their designs and styles. But not anymore, Aganovich proposed blazers hand over hand, Haider Ackermann, Jacquemus, Chalayan, Gabriele Colangelo and Jean Pierre Braganza chose asymmetrical shapes and

patterns; whereas Maison Rabih Kayrouz was seen fit to decorate blazers with peplum.

CLASSIC STYLE

The classic is always appreciated. The severe cut, restricted lines, traditional masculine silhouettes, all of which talk of an impeccable taste. Aditya Daga, Director, Jineshwar Exim Pvt. Ltd. agreed that classic style suits are suitable for any situation and to diversify the look, one can “play” with length or colours of pants. Versace presented a beige and dark green suit; Brandon Maxwell, Jill Stuart, Marissa Webb, Antonio Berardi, Altuzarra, Paul Smith, Bouchra Jarrar with traditional achromatic; Daks, Ralph Lauren, Christian Dior, Hermes, Barbara Casasola, Boss, Banana Republic, Alexandre Plokhov, 6397, in addition to achromatic, visibly shortened the length of trousers; Joseph, Barbara Casasola, Joseph, Paul Smith opted for shades of beige and yellow and stormy sea hue.

SPORTS INSPIRED

As we know, designers often promote sports and healthy lifestyle and Fall 2016 is no exception. Lacoste, Tommy Hilfiger, John Galliano, Chloe, Brunello Cucinelli, Juicy Couture

launched a series of suits that absolutely surprisingly combines the sport and casual styles. Very often suits are seen dynamic and in vivid colours, although the black colour palette was also available. Instead sport suits are specially designed for women who are always on the move. These suits are distinguished by practicality; they do not limit movement and at the same time, unlike conventional sport suits, project tonnes of style and fashion. Lively and charming, sport suits with metallic shine were proposed by designers Ralph Lauren and Barbara Bui, while wearing suits from Akris and Dsquared2, one could even run or play basketball.

THE DECORATIVE SUIT

Designers used bold asymmetric cuts, unusual colours, atypical fabrics and certainly striking decorative elements. This season hot brands like Tod’s, Loewe, Les Copains, Edun, Marc Jacobs, Creatures of the Wind widely used applications and embroidery, fringes, decorative seams and buttons, metal gasket, bows and other modes of fabrics decoration. Ajay Seth, CEO, A & M International avers, “Looking at the growing demand of embroidery and patchwork on suits, many distinct dimensions are being provided to these styles.”

Marni

Oscar de la Renta

FASHIONBUSINESS


WINDOWPANE CHECKSMoving on from the plaid trend, this season, designers pushed their creativity towards windowpane checks that were clean, graphical and bold without being fussy. Fall 2016’s windowpane checks were reworked into sporty pieces, outerwear, accessories and dresses. A majority of designers opted for darker shades like black and ink blue for the base and introduced colour through checks in their collections. Rag & Bone went with oversized checks and played with the print’s positioning in layered looks, Jason Wu worked with patterns on his tunic dresses and Victoria Beckham concocted a sensual, strapless version of a similar kind with cutouts. Lela Rose opted for a rose quartz and white checked overcoat for a subtle rendition of the trend while Edun showcased a windowpane checked sweater with a matching stole on it.

FASHIONRESOURCE

PANTONE 18-4330 TPX

PANTONE 14-4318 TPX

PANTONE 12-0736 TPX

PANTONE 17-1562 TPX

PANTONE 14-1312 TPX

COLOUR STORY A/W 2016-17 by FASHION FORWARD TRENDS

Fendi designs for Fendi

Fendi is keeping it in the family,

with jeweller Delfina Delettrez Fendi – the daughter of co-creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi, collaborating on a capsule watch collection for the fashion house. The collection is inspired from the geometric layout of the Palazzo Della Civilità

Sophia Webster: Winner of 2016 Vogue Fund

Sophia Webster has won this year’s BFC/

Vogue Designer Fashion Fund. The London-based shoe designer said, “It feels amazing, I’m so shocked; I still can’t quite take it in. This will just make such a massive difference to our business. The store is next on the agenda; we only just got the keys last week, so that’s

our next focus. After that our team is growing and we’ve really outgrown our space so next will be a new office. It’s incredible.”

“Sophia Webster is a great winner for this year’s award,” praised Alexandra Shulman, Vogue editor and the chair of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.

The brand encapsulates all the originality and creativity that British fashion is known for, while Sophia and her team have pursued a clear vision with drive and professionalism.

Described as “a feast of lightness and embellishment materialized in dreamy, draped lines, for the bride wanting to be as beautifully dressed as she is conscious”, the dresses come in three different silhouettes that reference the last three decades of haute couture and are beautifully decorated to meet the most selective of brides’ demands.

H&M unveils bridal styles

Following the footsteps of online

e-tailer, ASOS, releasing its incredibly popular bridal collection earlier this month, H&M has revealed its Spring/Summer 2016 wedding-dress offering.

The Swedish retailer has incorporated three bridal styles into its latest Conscious Collection, which will hit stores soon.

Italiana, which houses Fendi’s headquarters. “To me, the Fendi palazzo itself is like a huge watch,” said Fendi.

Featuring brilliant-cut white diamonds alongside malachite, green mother of pearl, lapis lazuli and blue mother of pearl, the watches (which have internal Swiss watch mechanisms) have alligator straps, made in the Fendi workshops, and are finished with 18-karat-gold buckles. The Policromia collection will retail from ¤ 3,000 to ¤ 150,000.


FASHIONRESOURCE

Victoria Beckham opens store in Hong Kong; her first outside UK

and five-star hotels. The designer’s designs are already available in the region, which is brand’s fastest-growing market. The Hong Kong store has been developed in collaboration with Asian fashion retail brand Joyce, which carries her collections. The brand aims to target the wearable luxury market and offers jeans tailored shirts, dresses and accessories.

“Armani’s fur-free announcement makes it clear that designers and consumers can have creative freedom and luxury without supporting animal cruelty,” said Joh Vinding, Chairman of the Fur Free Alliance.

Armani is now fur-free

Hong Kong is all set to get a taste of Victoria

Beckham’s designing marvel! The fashion designer has launched her first shop outside Britain in Hong Kong. The former model and fashion designer aims to tap the Asian market, despite the slump in the luxury spending.

The store is located at the upmarket Central district, a cluster of high-end brands

Giorgio Armani has confirmed that he is not

going to use real animal fur in any of his fashion collections as of Autumn/Winter 2016. “I am pleased to announce that the Armani Group has made a firm commitment to abolish the use of animal fur in its collections,” Armani said in a statement. “Technological progress made over the years allows us to have valid alternatives at our disposition that render the use of cruel practices unnecessary as regards animals,” added Armani.

The brand is said to have committed to the new policy for its Giorgio Armani, Armani Privé, and Emporio Armani collections after working with the Fur Free Alliance, which comprises of more than 40 animal-protection organizations focused on ending the fur trade.


For years, Indian artisans have put together their efforts, creativity

and sheer talent to bring out the best of traditional techniques. “With the sluggish global demand of handicraft, we are trying our best to find innovative ways to increase volume in domestic as well as international markets,” avers, Raj Kumar, Head Designer, Leela Shyam Exports, a Pushkar-based export house. Sujani and Banjara embroidery, Bawanbuti extra-weft weaving style, mirror work are some of the traditional crafts which are getting incorporates in new designs. “Imparting newness into an age-old craft gives interesting modification to the technique and results in more acceptability by the customers, which will subsequently lead to increase in orders,” adds Raj.

A popular brand from Jaipur, Soma, is also imparting world-class styling into traditional block-prints. The ingenuity of Soma is in the way they have managed to showcase products made following traditional block printing craft while giving this craft stature in the retail market differentiated by distinct quality, exclusivity and timelessness. Soma represents traditional techniques in a special way to Indian and international consumers through their innovative ideas, refined colour sensibility and world-class styling. The transformation

of traditional handprints in to stylized clothes and furnishings for contemporary living is their staple trend.

Mixing several geometric and abstract motifs, yet floral prints make a larger presence in their clothes and furnishings. Soma’s floral prints represent love, romance, acceptance and compassion. Designers from around the world contribute to Soma’s repertoire of designs and ideas, resulting in free flowing creativity from many sources. “Moving for some time now, we can’t really say that folklore embroidery and prints are new, but taking a break from floral and geometric interpretations, we are printing folksy prints making the trend economically viable and more feasible for both the exporter and the buyer. We are trying to develop never-seen-before combinations and prints to give the contemporary silhouettes developed in traditional print techniques an innovative touch,” says Andree Pouliot, Creative Director, Soma Blockprints Pvt. Ltd. Closest to the strengths of India, designers are experimenting with diverse embroideries, using vibrant colours, rich prints bringing out the flavour of craft.

Forming the perfect example of the geometric designs, the Mexican symbols made by knitting and embroidery on the clothes like simple triangles, rectangles, rhombuses, zigzag lines, stepped borders,

SUSTAINABILITY AND INNOVATION JOINING HANDS TO MEET EXPORT DEMANDS...

TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES TRANSLATED IN MODERN PROCESSES

Despite handicraft industry being an important component of the textile sector and also a focus area for the Government, artisans are far from being able to generate enough to sustain their livelihood. But working towards preserving our own heritage and tradition, many known brands have been trying their best to translate the age-old embroidery styles found across the country, as also shibori and ikat weaving techniques in modern ways, to ensure betterment in artisan’s source of revenue and craft promotion. Organizations, like Soma, Dastakri Haat Samiti, Mura Collective and Fab India, amongst others hope to make a difference by ensuring that traditional techniques are translated in modern processes to touch today’s need for innovation.

VALUEADDITION

Andree Pouliot, Creative Director, Soma Blockprints Pvt. Ltd


helical patterns, and crosses – go in line with the most talked about trend of geometric inspired tribal patterns along with the archetypical paisleys and florals. Fabindia has been always popular regarding its indigo dyed clothing and block printed kurtas. Asawari, one of the vendors for Fabindia is also adding various twists to their printing techniques and motifs. “Our current designs are a blend of both traditional and contemporary. So you have the time-tested booti effect expanding in size to give it a new look. Bold geometric patterns are trending big, while the paisleys have been reintroduced with a multi-coloured layered effect. The different shades of blue like indigo, navy blue, teal have caught my attention and they have been played out for the right effect. All this drama is unfolding on a white background with mulmul as a fabric of choice. We have cemented Indian sensibilities with western cuts with deconstructed tops, tunics, waist coats and flared skirts all showcasing the art of block printing,” informs, Sawrabh Kumar, Designer, Asawari.

Picking up the beautiful surface adorning techniques residing in the heart of crafts, some exporters have made craft-based collection development their USP. And one such company is the Tushar Group from Jaipur. Currently working with a diverse

variety of 12 brands under the same roof, the company believes in innovating within the handicraft parameters and do go for the artisans. “Each country has a different taste, so we try and position our brands in 12 different directions. The brand identity and conceptualization differs in each brand. Like the ‘cycle range’ is more French-oriented, the ‘tuk-tuk range’ is more Japanese, and then if you see ‘scooter range’, the fabrics, silhouettes and designs are mainly targeting US customers. As we are a handicraft-based company we try and incorporate techniques with a contemporary version. Every time we have to make a new design, as at the end of the day I have to get jobs for my people. We are doing many kinds of washes, in a particular fabric. We don’t use plain printed fabrics, we try and mix it with washing and hand embroidery. We do a mixture of techniques to give a unique look,” informed, Tushar, Head Designer, Tushar Group.

Another globally recognised company, Anokhi’s roots also lie in Jaipur. Dyeing with vegetable colours is the oldest of colouring techniques and a speciality of the brand. Anokhi’s designs blend contemporary sensibilities with traditions of excellence. Its designers seek the bold and the striking, the graphic and the colourful, using modern printing

techniques to keep pace with a demanding and fast moving world market, keeping the spirit of resurgence always alive.

Traditional techniques are also known for their adverse effects on natural resources. Fabric wastage, water wastage in dyeing and washing are some of the factors which are putting traditional techniques in the danger zone. But these organisations that are trying to bring newness to the traditional front are also looking at sustainability options. The first thematic park – Switch Asia – on block printing in the country at Jaipur has created a new benchmark for the textile industry setting up a common effluent treatment plant (CEPT) that would achieve zero discharge, and recycle and reuse around 90 per cent of waste water. Switch Asia is already working with 16 craft clusters and 30 textile parks in the country and in its second phase under the ‘Go Green’ programme it plans to focus on five clusters in Rajasthan. Companies are opting for organic dyeing methods which cut down the water resource usage. Three to four fabric lengths are dyed together and printed together to stop ink wastage. Batches of commodities are dyed in the same dye bath to reduce water consumption and to achieve different shades of the same colour for various designs.

Mixing several geometric and abstract motifs, yet floral prints make a larger presence on their clothes and furnishings. Soma’s floral prints represent love, romance, acceptance and compassion.

VALUEADDITION

Block preparation, block printing and naturally dyed garments by Soma Blockprints and Mura Collective


Pacific Garments, Noida has recently moved into its new plant spread in 30,000 sq. ft. in Noida

itself due to space constraint at its old unit. At the new unit, most of the things are in-house; very soon it will become GOTS-certified and is looking to get other compliances also. The company is mainly manufacturing for the Japanese market apart from a little bit for Australia, France and Spain. Pacific Garments is also soon starting with kids garments. Rakesh Gupta, Director – Marketing of the company and third generation of the business shared, “My mother, Madhushree Gupta, MD of the company, is the biggest motivation and pushes for all these initiatives as she guides all the staff with her visionary approach. Business is growing, following all structures of compliance. At the new unit, we have tried to make a more better and comfortable environment for our staff; and our buyers too can visit

and see us working systematically. With all these efforts we are targeting at least 20 per cent growth.”

The company is 60 per cent into apparels (producing 30,000 to 40,000 pieces per month of high-value ladies garments) and also offers handicrafts/accessories products. Working with departmental stores, wholesalers and few big buyers, the company has a wide range of products, offering from 30 pieces per style and going up to 10,000 pieces in a single style. “In the beginning we had buyers sourcing very less number of pieces and our chairman instructs us that we should not forget our past and continue working with those or similar kind of buyers along with whatever you are now doing. So we have a separate division for small orders,” added Rakesh. In tune with the wide range of buyers that the company feeds, its price range starts from US $ 6 and goes up to US $ 60. The company, having legacy of 4 decades, was founded in Kolkata by Nirmal Gupta and is also promoting Khadi fabric in Japan, which is witnessing reasonably good market for the product.

PACIFIC GARMENTS MOVING TOWARDS MORE SYSTEMATIC WORKING; ADDING KIDSWEAR LINE

Rakesh Gupta, Director – Marketing, Pacific Garments

High Street Fashions, Jaipur, engaged in manufacturing and export of socks, elbow caps, knee caps, leggings

and wrist/head bands, using innovative designs and material for socks and leggings, is planning to increase its production capacity. Raj Kumar Sethia, CEO of this ISO 9001:2008, EMS 14001:2004, OSHAS 18001:2007-certified company, informed Apparel Online, “Our present capacity is 5 lakh pieces per month and we are trying to increase it to 7.5 lakh pieces per month. Business is good and we are expecting 25 to 30 per cent growth this year.” He also added that his company is the only one in Jaipur which offers leggings made by organic fabric.

Promoted by Raj Kumar Sethia and Neeta Sethia in the year 2000, High Street Fashions has in-house facilities for most of the manufacturing/value addition processes. The company is catering to Reebok and Adidas, and also offers its products under the brand ‘Happy Toes’ in the domestic market. To motivate workers, the company has initiated incentive systems like appreciation on full attendance, on achieving production targets as well as financial support in terms of interest-free loan. The company also exports 20 per cent of its production to countries like the US, Peru and Middle East.

HIGH STREET FASHIONS TO ENHANCE CAPACITY

In the last fiscal, Uttar Pradesh witnessed a compounded annual growth rate of 26.55 per cent in exports, growing

from Rs. 26,204.07 crore (US $ 4,031 million) in 2009-10 to Rs. 85,034.43 crore (US $ 13,082 million) in 2014-15. Now the state is targeting to double its export within a year.

Recently, few UP-based exporters were awarded with Janeshwar Mishra State Export Award 2014-15. Nitin Agrawal, MSME & Export Promotion Minister (I/C) of UP honoured these companies at an event held in New Delhi. Antak Agencies International, Noida known for cotton bag manufacturing won first prize in the category of cotton garments/apparel export, the company exports to countries like France, the US, Germany and Japan. Taj Velvet and Silk Mills, Agra was the second in this category. Varanasi-based Apex International was honoured in silk garments while Manglam India Exports and Manglam Overseas, Varanasi were awarded in handloom category. In leather products, Super Tannery Ltd., Kanpur got the first prize, while Virola International, Agra stood second.

UP-BASED EXPORTERS AWARDED

M.D. Pancholi, Sr. Manager (HR), Antak Agencies International receiving the award

INDUSTRYWIRE


UP inaugurates India’s first ever state-level EPC

Indore Garment Fair boosts apparel manufacturers’ confidence

Uttar Pradesh has now become India’s first state to

have its own Export Promotion Council (UPEPC). There are 28 export promotion councils across India, covering specific product categories of export items. UPEPC, which was recently launched in Delhi, will cover 15 products/services, including ready-made garments (RMG), handicrafts, handloom, carpet, sports goods, leather and leather products. The State Government will be contributing Rs. 5 crore as interest-free loan towards the formation of this EPC, which will be refundable in 10 years’ time. The EPC will be a self-sustainable body, funded by trade and industry. Exporters can become its members with only nominal charges. There will be a total of 28 members in its management committee/executive committee, out of which 15 will be from various industries. Top officials of

Apparel manufacturers in Indore (India) and its

stakeholders across the supply chain are equally happy and excited, as most participants at the recently concluded Garment Fair – 2016, organized by the Indore Readymade Vastra Vyapari Sangh, felt the event has been beneficial for their business.

The Indore apparel industry is now expecting more orders to come in for the coming season. Organized in a 1.50 lakh sq. ft. area, within 4 domes, the event grounds comprised 160 booths, most of which were beautifully managed and had displayed their latest

Nitin Agarwal, Minister of State (I/C) for MSME & Export Promotion, Government of UP (C) with senior officials

various departments of the UP Government will become the Council’s President, Vice-President and Secretary.

After launching the Council, Nitin Agarwal, MSME & Export Promotion Minister (I/C), Uttar Pradesh held a meeting with his members, where industry representatives placed their demands. Lalit Thukral of Twenty Second Miles, Noida, known for high-fashion garments and Praveen Agarwal of Narayan International, Noida, exporting home furnishing items have also been included as EC members of the UPEPC. On how UPEPC will benefit the export industry

collections. More than 5,500 retailers, wholesalers, dealers visited the fair and booked their orders. Most of the visitors were from Mumbai, Ahmedabad, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh, etc. Sharing his experience, one of the visitors, Pawan Agarwal, Swami Collection, Faridkot (Punjab) said, “We

Visitors and exhibitors turned up in large numbers at the garment fair in Indore

and what was its necessity when there are already 28 EPCs in India as well as an Export Promotion Bureau in UP, Lalit Thukral told Apparel Online, “Most EPCs, which are already operational in India are catering to the personal interests of their bosses, but this UPEPC will focus more on the export promotion of the state, which has a target to double its export in the next one year. It will work in a way that will really enhance both the export of the state as well as facilities for the exporters.”

Putting forth the demands of the apparel exporters, he insisted on the need to increase subsidies that is currently very low in

have come to Indore after eight years, but after seeing the collections here, I believe I will be visiting this city more often now.” Pamba of Pamba Vasan Agency was also enthusiastic in his response. “We have been working with Indore-based firms for the past three decades, but this time,

terms of the amount/limits that the UP Government offers. A BSM was also organized, in which more than 24 firms from various product categories displayed their products. There was also inauguration of Craft Mart, Noida and six additional halls of India Expo Center and Mart. Many top officials of the UP Government, including Dr. Rajneesh Dube, Principal Secretary MSME & Export Promotion; RK Singh, Additional Export Commissioner; Neena Sharma, Commissioner & Director, Industries; Rakesh Kumar, India Expo Centre & Mart and several other exporters were present during the event.

the designs, presentation were awesome and challenging to the manufacturers of Delhi and Mumbai.

Akshay Jain, spokesperson of Indore Readymade Vastra Vyapari Sangh told Apparel Online, “Our team, under the leadership of Shanti Priya Doshi, President, and Ashish Nigam, the Secretary, did a very good job and all exhibitors supported us with a positive attitude. Our fair also witnessed visitors from Saudi Arabia, Sharjah, Muscat, Kuwait and Indonesia. In the next three years, we will be a challenge for all other garmenting hubs in India.” Indore, one of the biggest garmenting hubs of the Indian domestic garment market, has almost 2,500 units, manufacturing mainly kidswear and shirts.

INDUSTRYLIVE


National Conference on Fashion & Textile refocuses on need to innovate

Highlighting the importance of the apparel and textile

industry in Indian economy, Prof. (Dr.) Pradeep Joshi, DG, Amity Directorate of Applied Arts, Fine Arts, Performing Arts & Visual Arts reiterated how innovation is crucial for the industry’s sustenance and growth in the “global competitive textile economy”, while admitting that the Government’s focus on ‘Make in India’ will benefit the sector to a great extent. Joshi was addressing the National Conference on Fashion & Textile – 2016 (NCFAT ’16) at the Amity University in Noida, recently.

This event, witnessed leading industry persons and faculty

members from reputed institutes from across the country. Among the most eminent speakers were Prof. (Dr.) S M Ishtiaque, Professor, IIT-Delhi and Executive Director, IITRA, who spoke on Smart Interactive Textiles (SIT) and how important textiles is in areas of collaborative Research and Development. He also spoke at length about the technological progress in the area of manufactured fibres, and how the end-product often surpasses the natural fibres in many aspects.

The conference had several sessions, which comprised

one theme session and three technical sessions. Among the speakers who addressed the conference during the theme session included Vijay Mathur, Additional Secretary General, AEPC; Madhu S Dutta, Head Marketing – Lifestyle Business, Raymond Ltd; Varija Bajaj, Fashion Designer; Samir Sahni, Director, JDS Apparels; and Baqar Naqvi, Business Director, Wazir Advisors.

The technical sessions also saw speakers like Saumen Bhattacharya from The Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences (TIT&S), Bhiwani; Madhuri Nigam from Lady Irwin College, Delhi; Subhashish Pal (Panipat

Institute of Engineering & Technology, Panipat, Haryana); Dr K N Chatterjee (TIT&S, Bhiwani).

The event also included a poster exhibition of selected research papers, during which faculty members from the Institute of Home Economics, Lady Irwin College and Banasthali University, Rajasthan showcased the posters on various topics like ‘Treatment of wound through textile-based product’, ‘Hand Spinning’, ‘Physical Principles in Clothing Comfort’, etc. The faculty members also interacted with the audience for a beneficial exchange of ideas.

Madhu S. Dutta, Head Marketing – Lifestyle Business, Raymond Ltd. being presented the Amity memento by Prof. (Dr.) Pradeep Joshi

After a successful Denimsandjeans.com show in Bangladesh earlier last month, the organizer

of the event is now all set to host its first ever denim show in Vietnam. The Denimsandjeans.com Vietnam Show will be held from June 16-17, 2016 at Gem Centre, Ho Chi Minh City, and shall bring some of the most reputed local and international mills and supply chain partners together under one roof.

Denim is a growing segment of apparel sourced from Vietnam and is likely to witness significant growth in coming years, the organizer said. The country exported around 20 million pieces of denim apparel to the US market last year at an average price of US $ 8.1 per unit, which is expected to grow substantially in the near future. Vietnam is a rising apparel exporting country. It is already the fourth largest exporter of apparel after China, Bangladesh and Hong Kong. With the country likely to benefit from TPP and Free Trade Agreements with EU, once they are signed, it is already the focus of many apparel companies around the world. The country is very optimistic about its potential of growth in the coming years, the organizer mentioned in a release.

The Census 2011 data, which revealed that 44 per cent of Tirupur’s (Tamil Nadu) population

is employed on a regular basis, goes to prove that hubs of “old economy” industries like textiles are still the top employers in India. As per the Census data, Tirupur, which is the biggest textile and hosiery centre, tops the employment table among 506 cities and towns. Apart from this textile town, Santipur in West Bengal, Erode and Rajapalyam in Tamil Nadu and Mangalagiri in Andhra Pradesh – all textile manufacturing hubs – figure in the list of top five employment generators published.

Interestingly, both New Delhi, with its large number of Government employees, and Bangalore, which has a mix of both old and new economy figure in the fourth position, alongside Mangalagiri. The Census data also showed that six towns from Bihar and three from UP, along with Anantnag in Jammu and Kashmir, figure in the bottom five, with less than 20 per cent of their population, categorized under regular workers. Incidentally, the reason for the latter towns to fair poorly is that these towns have a disproportionate number of adults.

Denimsandjeans.com now in Vietnam

Tirupur top employment generating town in India: Census data

INDUSTRYLIVE


Coming as a relief for the country’s garment industry,

India will now continue to be a beneficiary of trade preferences under the European Union’s Generalized Scheme of Preferences. The benefit under Section 11(b) of EU’s Generalized Scheme of Preferences, which according to a previous decision, was scheduled to come to an end on December 31, 2016, has been extended by three years for the apparel segment. India will, hence, continue to enjoy 20 per cent tariff preference on exports for the next three years, i.e. from 2017 to 2019. However, the fabric and yarn

Apparel Training and Design Centre (ATDC)

received the Best Vocational Training Provider (VTP) Training 2016 award from Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry of India (ASSOCHAM) at an Award-cum-Summit Skilling India: The Way Forward.

The award was conferred on ATDC for its contribution to large-scale quality skilling of Indian youths, especially women in rural and semi-urban areas. ATDC & IAM DG &

segments have not been as lucky and they are now out of this list. The removal of the textile sector comes in the wake of the rise in exports of textile over the allotted 14.5 per cent of the threshold.

The extended trade preference to the garment segment is expected to benefit the country’s apparel sector to a great extent, even as it struggles to meet competition from GSP – zero tariff benefit holders like Bangladesh. An additional advantage is that China has been removed from the list of beneficiaries, giving Indian products with duty preference an edge over its

CEO Dr. Darlie Koshy received the award on behalf of ATDC, given by Skill Development & Employment Minister Rajiv Pratap Rudy

Speaking on the occasion, ATDC V-C G S Madan said, “I would like to thank ASSOCHAM for conferring this award to ATDC for its pioneering and singular achievements and congratulate Team ATDC for working tirelessly towards ATDC’s vision of ‘Imparting Skills, Improving Lives’.”

Apparel Sector gets 3-year extension on tariff preference by EU; Textile removed from list

ATDC gets ‘Best Vocational Training Provider’ award

Dr. Darlie Koshy receiving the award from Rajiv Pratap Rudy, Skill Development & Employment Minister

INDUSTRYLIVE

competitors in the European market. Currently, India’s apparel export to EU alone comprises 36 per cent of the industry’s total exports.

Pleased with the move, AEPC Chairman Ashok G Rajani said, “Our endeavour now is signing of FTA with EU as early as possible.”


requires less investment, more and more people at the lower level are adding few machines every year leading, to excess capacity building.

Offering jackets and tweed coats, Ankit of Wool Grace Knitfab, is now planning to start summerwear as well, while also exploring machines for them. He too believes that there is not much growth in winterwear. A few firms are focusing on overall improvements, rather than expanding, like manufacturing 700 pieces per day of various knitted items. RS Prince Knitwears is adding customers from such far off ‘unchartered’ states, offering more and new designs, also tightening price by reducing margins and limiting

part from reducing winters, manufacturers in

the Ludhiana region are also facing late payment issues, which have lowered the spirits of these manufacturers even further. Companies that are manufacturing for local brands are doing well, as they have production plans well in advance. Consequently, many people have shifted their production capacities to such brands. On the other hand, those that are working only in the wholesale segment are feeling the heat as tight payment cycle is a big issue for them. Over-production is another issue in some product categories and since buying a Chinese machine

its production rather than stockpiling. According to Hunny Gumber of the firm, “One does not have any other option. He has to take all possible steps to survive in the market.”

Despite the pall of gloom that has descended on the Ludhiana woollen business, a few companies in the city are expanding and venturing into new terrains with an aim to upgrading their business. Some have taken to changing their strategy, improving technology as well as their product offerings. One such company is Kirti Collection, which has a capacity of more than 5,000 pieces per day in kidswear and is now planning to add CAD in its manufacturing

unit. It is also working to sell its products online. “Whatever be the season, if we have to grow, we must do something new. And since online is a growing area, we are looking to get in to the same,” said Gaurav Arora of the company.

Companies offering T-shirts are still doing reasonably good business. Davinder Pal of Deejay Knitwear, which is currently working with 85 stitching machines, will soon add 85 more to double its production capacity. “We believe in in-house production. So rather than outsourcing or getting the products done from job-workers, we will install more machines in our factory,” reasons Davinder from the company. Robin Jain,

The first-ever edition of the Garments Machinery Manufacturers & Suppliers Association (GMMSA) Expo, Ludhiana proved a fruitful event for most exhibitors as well as visitors. Almost 100 companies from across the world displayed their latest machines and many of them were displaying in the city for the first time. The past two winter seasons that were reduced to hardly a few weeks, have badly impacted the winterwear manufacturing business in Ludhiana and led to stockpiling, particularly for those doing woollen garments. In these changing conditions, experts suggest that in order to survive, manufacturers must focus now on products that can be worn in warmer/less winter conditions as well, instead of only concentrating on woollen or hardcore winterwear garments like jackets, sweater, etc. that has been the identity of the hub for a long time.

I N D U S T R Y M OV I N G B E YO N D W O O L L E N A N D H A R D CO R E W I N T E R W E A R P R O D U C T S

GMMSA EXPO CATCHING THE SPIRIT OF LUDHIANA

A

Ankit of Wool Grace Knitfab Robin Jain, Director of Isha Jain Knitwears Deepak Oswal, Director of HM Cotsyn, with his son Chirag

Aman Bansal, Managing Partner of Aman International

INDIACANVAS


Director of Isha Jain Knitwears was impressed with the advanced models of stitching machines at the fair and is willing to install the same.

Deepak Oswal, Director of a 40 year-old HM Cotsyn, having capacity of supplying 2 tonnes per day of knitted fabric pan-India, started garmenting one year ago and is manufacturing 500 tees per day. “Business is okay but payments are getting delayed. There is no dearth of work but cash flow is the major issue. Cotton Lycra and basic items in PC and cotton are more in demand nowadays,” shared Deepak, who liked jacquard, auto striper machines and is planning to buy the same soon. It was encouraging to know that few new companies are trying to enter into the garment industry despite all these difficulties. One such company, Aman International, currently into auto parts export is planning to start T-shirt manufacturing as it has received enquiries for the same. “We have experience in exporting various countries and understand how that works, now we have to understand garmenting and hopefully we will start the business in the near future,” said Aman Bansal, Managing Partner of the company.

Displays that impressed…Many technology suppliers had machines or new models which attracted the visitors like Steiger, Switzerland, which displayed its latest flat-knitting machine, Antares 3.130, with motorized Popup Feeders. It was introduced in India for the first time. The technology is beneficial in pleating fabric. Representing the company in India, Gurpreet Singh MD, K.P. Exim was happy with the response that the machine received. Narinder International also displayed for the first time its flat knitting machine (from Changshu Guoguang Machinery Co.) that can offer products of various gauges (7 to 16) by just changing its needle bed, enabling manufacturers to save

a lot of money. Narinder Kumar, Proprietor of the company informed, “To support the industry we are doing our best to introduce new machines. This is a patent technology of a Chinese company and we are expecting at least 100 installations of this machine this year.” In circular knitting it was offering fully electronic jacquard machines. In another development the company displayed low-cost blanket manufacturing on circular knitting machines. Narinder International is getting good business from Panipat.

Manufacturing on semi-computerized flat knitting machines is a growing trend in Ludhiana and companies are moving forward in this direction. Harish Daffu of Omex Mechanical Works/Omex International shared, “Our advanced models which we launched recently are manufactured in our own unit and are similar to the ones made in Taiwan; we have already sold 22 machines of the same. We are also in the process to develop 2/3 machines that are found in China at our own new unit in Ludhiana, and within next three months we will commence manufacturing.”

Hitech International, a sister concern of Jindal Precession Machinery, is in the process of setting up its first machinery production unit for making fully computerized flat-knitting machines in India. The unit, which is being set up with an investment of Rs. 25 crore, is expected to produce its first batch of machines within the next few months. Jogesh Jindal, Director of the company informed, “We are into selling high-technology CNC machines from Germany. We have well-trained engineers and technical tie-ups in China; our software is also from China, but our engineering is better than China. So machine-making is not a difficult thing. Our strengths will make it possible for us to offer machines at comparatively less price (by at least 30 per cent) than China. I have seen many factories in

Parmod Arora of NC Traders with his sons: Nikhil (R) and Chirag

(L-R) Avdhesh Jaiswal, Anshuman Nagpal and Kannav Arora of Dhaval Colour Chem

Kiran Khanna (L), Sales Consultant, and Satyadev Goyal, VP, IIGM

Vipin Sehgal (R), Director and Parveen Sood, AGM Marketing, Alpex Exports

INDIACANVAS


China for flat knitting machines, but only one or two have good plants.” He further adds, “We are using Japanese and German technologies to make our flat-knitting machines. We are advising users that they should work only on fully computerized flat-knit machines rather than power flat or such other models. As far as export of our machines is concerned, Bangladesh is a big market for us. Our quality will be one of the major reasons of our success.”

Dhaval Colour Chem displayed its digital printing machines covering wide range from sublimation to heat transfer, etc. The company got good response for its roll-to-roll printer of Monti Antonio (75), It also displayed various models of Epson, including the latest launches – Epson 6270 (44 inches, the entrant model) and Epson F 9270 which is a dual hand printer with the speed of 45 sq. metres per hour. The company’s DGI FD 1904 (direct-to-fabric printing, 4 head printer with the speed of 80 sq. metres per hour) also attracted the visitors.

Grafica Flextronica, another company in the printing segment organized daily technical seminars on advanced DTG Screen Printing at the event and more than 150 people participated at these seminars. “People are aware of the machines but they are not focusing on screen making part. We are telling them how

important screen making is and how to do it. Our awareness efforts will help them,” said Keyur Vashi, Sr. Sales Manager of the company, expecting good installation in Ludhiana in the coming months.

IIGM displayed a few machines for the first time in Ludhiana, like 4-needle 6-thread flat bed flat seamer of Yamato (VFK 2560-8) with active thread control. Yamato’s neck rib machine can produce 125 neck ribs in one hour. Similarly, in the Juki DDL-9000B series, as compared to conventional machines the remaining thread in UBT is very less; also its pneumatic folder for hemming at bottom gives very good result. Satyadev Goyal, VP, IIGM shared that the market for sports and outerwear is increasing, so there is good demand for such kinds of machines. IIGM also displayed Juki’s MF 3620 flat seamer which is a good option for the sports and outerwear.

Jack, which claims to be China’s No. 1 company in stitching machines technology, displayed its A4 model (computerized lockstitch automatic presser foot lifter) for the first time at this event. This machine also tells the operator by ‘speaking’ which keys are to be pressed for which operation and when the operation has to be initiated. It also has a USB port, which the operator can use to charge his cell phone or a small fan can be run on it for

the ease of operator. Bill Chen, Sales Manager, South Asia Department, Jack informed that the company is further upgrading this models so it can guide the operator about its maintenance.

Accessory companies gain good business…Needle companies are observing increasing demand of needles from unorganized segment of the local industry which is a good sign. The team of Groz-Beckert, a respected name in the needle as well as knitting machines manufacturing parts, was busy interacting with visitors. Vishal Nayaar, Knitting Machine Parts, Branch Office In-charge, Ludhiana was of the opinion, “Despite all the challenges, the industry in Ludhiana is moving forward; growing awareness of technology and changing conditions in China are the positive reasons for the hope of good business.”

Vipin Sehgal, Director, Alpex Exports representing Samsung Knitting Needles said, “Some of the traders in needles are not concerned for the quality, so users belonging to even unorganized markets are coming back to us as they do believe in quality and our products are of good quality and value for money.” He also added, “Good or bad season is a part of the fashion industry and I feel that most of the firms are doing satisfactorily. Yes, profitability is getting low as competition is growing, so manufacturers have

Team Groz-Beckert with Rajesh Biyani, MD, Rajasthan International (extreme left)Harish Daffu (R) of Omex International with Wang Jian Cheng of Shangyu Longchima Textile Machinery

Ram Krishan, Administrator, GMMSA claimed that the event was a big success. “Our exhibitors are very happy with the response. We have got the permission to hold this exhibition over a larger area in the future. So we expect that henceforth, this event will be held on a much bigger scale,” he said.

INDIACANVAS


to change their perception and business will be sustainable only at very reasonable margins.”

Sachin Garg of SD International offering needles for circular knitting machines of Dongsin Knitting Needles Korea is also satisfied with the market. As a company offering needles from last four years, he observes

growth in the market. “Being a Korean company our needles are of better quality, and when it comes to price level, we are far econimical than the other well-known brands. We are satisfied with the market as there is reasonably good demand,” he said.

Among the few accessories firms in the event, NC Traders –

displaying buttons, tags, metal accessories and other such imported products from China, received a good response. “We directly import from China and there is no agent or any other layer involved in the entire sourcing process. In this way we are more cost-effective too. We can offer customized

designs too,” said Parmod Arora, who is into the textile business for the last 15 years. As of now, the company is getting good demand of high density stickers as it is easy to use and takes less time. Nikhil Arora who initiated this business handles the China and Hong Kong offices of the firm.

Gurpreet Singh MD, K.P. Exim with Steiger’s Antares 3.130

Jogesh Jindal, Director, Hitech International

Keyur Vashi, Sr. Sales Manager, Grafica Flextronica

Narinder Kumar of Narinder International

INDIACANVAS


EXPORTSTATISTICS

Value of imports increase by 10.24% while volumes dip (-) 4.80% in first ten monthsEU Import Analysis – Jan.-Oct. 2015

The EU registered negative growth in quantities of (-) 4.80%, even as values of imports increased substantially by 10.24% in the first ten months of 2015. The average UVR of imported apparel also increased substantially from Euro 15.70 (per kg of fabric equivalent) in the same period of 2014 to Euro 18.18 (per kg of fabric equivalent) this year. While knitted garments saw 9.68% growth in values, woven garments clocked 10.80% growth in value during the same period. However, there was decline in volumes for both segments, for knitted garments it was (-) 4.18% and in woven it was (-) 5.57%.

Report by Cushman & Wakefield suggests that European Retail Sector is buoyant…, and going for expansion According to a report released in March 2016, Research Group Cushman & Wakefield, the retail sector recorded the fastest growth in Europe’s commercial property market last year, with investment rising to a total of ¤ 67.3 billion; volumes were ahead by 28% compared to the previous 12 months. Germany enjoyed a record year in 2015, doubling trade volumes to move past the UK and become the busiest retail investment market in Europe.

The research report outlines how economic trends have been favourable for the retail sector due to a return of modest but real income growth as well as an improving labour market. Despite the headwinds facing the global market, this is likely to continue to benefit the sector in 2016. High streets have been the lead performer, although growth has become more diverse as retailers react to supply, operating costs and the impact of e-tailing and click and collect. This strong vibe should according to the report attract ¤ 70.5 billion investment in 2016 in space. The strong demand for core retail was underlined by increased activity in the Nordics, with volumes rising 158%. In contrast, retail markets in Spain and Italy were somewhat overshadowed by increased interest in their office sectors but demand in the region is still strong, with Portugal’s retail volumes rising 194%. Benelux and Central Europe also experienced increased activity, with volumes rising 237% in Belgium, 244% in Poland and 103% in the Czech Republic.

Analysing the findings, Markus Schmitt-Habersack, Chairman of the Cushman & Wakefield German Capital Markets team said, “While London may be the leading city for cross border investors, Germany offers greater depth, with seven cities in the top 20 for cross border buyers in 2015. The German consumer is set to remain on the front foot in 2016 and retail sales are expected to steadily edge ahead. The translation of this into rental

growth however, may prove slow, given the cost sensitivity of retailers, and there is a clear need for investors to focus on quality retail locations and areas where income gains can be secured via active management.” Adds David Hutchings, Head of EMEA Investment Strategy at Cushman & Wakefield, “Markets such as Italy and Poland look set for a strong year but core markets will remain in highest demand in what looks set to be an uncertain and volatile global economy.”

APPAREL IMPORTS OF THE EU: SELECTED COUNTRIES

Country/Category

Jan.-Oct. 2014 Jan.-Oct. 2015% Increase/ Decrease

Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value

WORLD

Knitted 2183.81 30948.79 2092.60 33943.37 -4.18 9.68

Woven 1777.67 31251.41 1678.64 34626.78 -5.57 10.80

Total 3961.48 62200.20 3771.24 68570.15 -4.80 10.24

CHINA

Knitted 866.45 11179.62 765.85 11845.68 -11.61 5.96

Woven 857.05 12924.97 745.09 13828.63 -13.06 6.99

Total 1723.50 24104.59 1510.94 25674.31 -12.33 6.51

INDIA

Knitted 125.81 1992.99 128.11 2216.18 1.83 11.20

Woven 88.81 2056.54 86.93 2267.98 -2.12 10.28

Total 214.62 4049.53 215.04 4484.16 0.19 10.73

BANGLADESH

Knitted 510.67 5612.34 530.62 6830.93 3.91 21.71

Woven 296.29 3860.03 305.56 4917.26 3.13 27.39

Total 806.96 9472.37 836.18 11748.19 3.62 24.03

SRI LANKA

Knitted 42.51 725.33 41.47 772.83 -2.45 6.55

Woven 25.70 513.80 25.53 576.03 -0.67 12.11

Total 68.21 1239.14 66.99 1348.86 -1.78 8.85

PAKISTAN

Knitted 69.14 642.11 73.56 796.18 6.39 23.99

Woven 73.38 890.04 76.99 1112.15 4.93 24.96

Total 142.52 1532.14 150.55 1908.33 5.64 24.55

VIETNAM

Knitted 30.96 494.97 32.13 652.13 3.80 31.75

Woven 71.46 1384.05 72.76 1683.65 1.82 21.65

Total 102.42 1879.03 104.89 2335.78 2.42 24.31

Qty. & Value in mn Kg & Euro

Bangladesh to reach US $ 60 billion export figure by 2021

At a time when the Bangladesh garment industry is working hard towards achieving the US $ 50 billion export target by 2021 to commemorate the country’s 50th independence anniversary, Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed has forecast that Bangladesh’s export earnings would reach US $ 60 billion by then. He also called upon the entrepreneurs of the private sectors to play more proactive role to further accelerate the country’s economic growth and lift its economic status.

Opening the 24th month-long “Chittagong International Trade Fair-2016” (CITF-2016) recently, Ahmed said, “We want to transform Bangladesh from a labour-reliant economy to a digital one.” He added further that Bangladesh’s current annual export stood at over US $ 31 billion and was increasing at a whopping rate of 12.5% per annum.

Sri Lanka’s T&C exports plunge 2.2% in 2015

According to the data revealed by Central Bank, the textile and apparel exports from Sri Lanka dropped by around 2.2% to US $ 4.82 billion in 2015. The country’s overall exports plunged 5.6% from a year earlier to US $ 10,504 million and imports dipped 2.5% to US $ 18.9 billion, with the trade gap rising marginally to US $ 8,430 million.

Sri Lanka also witnessed drop in textile exports to one of its important markets – Thailand, to US $ 54 million in 2014. To improve its export figures in the coming years, the country is planning to strengthen its business tie-ups with Thailand. Commenting on trade relations with Thailand, State Minister of International Trade Sujeewa Senasinghe said, “Our target is to achieve US $ 1.5 billion trade with Thailand following the setting up of a one-stop shop with the Board of Investment of Sri Lanka.”

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EXPORTSTATISTICS

Import of legwear shows growth in value; volumes decline

Growth in value of imports of legwear of 6.33% was registered by the EU during the review period, even though there were declines in volume of (-) 5.66%. While India saw value of exports increasing in the category by 2.31%, volumes decreased by (-) 1.00%. Bangladesh, however, registered tremendous growth of 47.80% in value of exports to the EU, while volumes increased by 21.67% in this category.

Babies wear registers setback in quantities for India

Decline of imports in the babies wear category by the EU in the first ten months was (-) 9.52% in volumes while values increased 14.60% in value. During the same period India registered gains of 18.36% in value with decline of (-) 4.96% in volumes.

Ladies dresses see growth in exports from India

A leading category for India, export of ladies dresses to the EU registered growth of 3.20% in quantities, while the gains in value were 8.91%. The EU too registered gains in the value of imports by 10.78%, while volumes decreased marginally by (-) 1.38%.

Jackets & blazers growth segment for Bangladesh

Exporters in Bangladesh are moving towards more structured garments and this is evident with the increase in exports of jackets & blazers, which saw 16.62% growth in quantities, while value of exports increased by a whopping 42.89%.

Bangladesh registers growth in exports of ladies suits

Many Bangladeshi factories are investing in ladies suit factories and the results are now for all to see. In the period under review, the country saw 13.29% growth in quantities, while the growth in value of imports was of 42.60%. Going forward the industry is looking to invest more in this category.

Trousers growth category for Bangladesh

Import of legwear registers growth in value as volumes decline In the first ten months of 2015, exports of trousers by Bangladesh registered growth of 28.46% in value, while the growth in volumes was 6.83%. The EU registered 13.94% growth in value of imports in trousers, while there was decline in volumes of (-) 2.02% during the period under review.

APPAREL TYPE

Total Imports by EUExports to EU

India Bangladesh

Qty % Change

Value % Change

Qty Actual

Value Actual

Qty % Change

Value % Change

Qty Actual

Value Actual

Qty % Change

Value % Change

Babies Wear -9.52 14.60 12.97 296.85 -4.96 18.36 24.67 428.23 2.63 36.12

Foundation Garments -2.54 12.12 0.24 15.35 6.46 8.48 3.74 137.60 16.34 44.09

Jackets & Blazers -7.41 8.32 1.88 49.94 0.19 11.22 6.39 103.95 16.62 42.89

Ladies Blouses 1.50 18.38 17.86 596.05 0.25 12.44 11.35 256.71 21.67 44.03

Ladies Dresses -1.38 10.78 18.47 513.09 3.20 8.91 12.32 191.65 10.64 27.40

Ladies Skirts -17.88 -0.12 3.90 86.84 -21.12 -1.63 6.30 91.30 -8.35 25.49

Legwear -5.66 6.33 1.35 17.86 -1.00 2.31 11.35 17.38 21.67 47.80

Men's Shirts -2.25 11.05 20.44 484.06 -6.65 5.70 88.70 1368.39 2.56 23.12

Nightwear -4.69 7.71 21.91 480.87 -0.75 6.59 17.94 206.33 12.82 32.15

Suits / Ensembles -16.42 4.80 1.71 30.77 31.85 33.29 1.94 25.83 13.29 42.60

Sweaters -8.04 5.93 10.72 202.70 -6.86 2.98 122.59 1759.25 -3.29 12.51

Trousers -2.02 13.94 32.54 561.94 8.39 16.19 258.53 3638.57 6.83 28.46

T-Shirts -4.64 7.38 41.78 723.21 -0.74 8.97 224.00 2576.75 1.78 18.34

Undergarments -3.89 11.01 7.81 136.17 12.38 23.14 14.64 262.47 12.91 35.18

Value in mn Euro and Qty in mn Kg

ITEM-WISE PERCENTAGE INCREASE IN TOTAL APPAREL IMPORTS BY EU FROM INDIA AND BANGLADESH: JAN.-OCT. 2015 AS AGAINST JAN.-OCT. 2014

A lot has been written about the Japanese economy and the fact that all is not well, this it would appear has also influenced the retail scenario. Retail activities in Japan have been consistently weakening in the last few months. After a brisk expansion through March to October 2015, it shrunk for three consecutive months to the latest month. In January 2016, it fell by 0.4% month-on-month, after a seasonal adjustment…

In the first month of the year, Japan has seen a setback in value of apparel imports by (-) 9.62%, while the volumes decreased by (-) 3.07%. Knitted garments registered a decline of (-) 2.37% in volumes, while the volume of woven garments decreased (-) 5.10%. The values were down in woven garments by (-) 9.94%, while those of knitted garments were down (-) 9.27%.

India too registered a massive downward movement in value of exports during the month of Jan. this year by (-) 23.88%; the volumes were down by (-) 32.46%. There was a decrease in volumes of exports of knitted garments of (-) 24.07%, while woven garments saw a decrease in volumes of (-) 37.12%.

Bangladesh registered good increase in the volume of exports to Japan in Jan. of 20.37%, while values increased by 9.02%. Growth was seen in knitted garments with 27.49% increase in volumes, while in woven garments the increase in volumes was 8.52%.

Vietnam, which was on top gear, saw losses for the first time in a few years. In the period under review the country registered a decrease in value of exports to the Japanese market of (-) 1.28%, while volumes were down (-) 1.95%.

Japan apparel imports – January 2016

Import of apparel by Japan starts the year with negative growth


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sharing his views and ideas on the challenges and prospects of the apparel sector in this region and how his company is aligning and innovating its services to offer customized solutions that meet the requirements of the garment manufacturers, helping them set their businesses on a new growth trajectory.

AO When did TÜV SÜD enter India and what have been the landmark achievements since?

NN: We started operations in India in 1995, initially offering management system certifications to businesses. Over the past two decades, we have forayed into newer businesses and grown exciting sectors. For us at TÜV SÜD, we celebrate success when our services have been able to help customers achieve impeccable business productivity.

Since the region was a focus one, we launched our services in

Celebrating 150 years of excellence, TÜV SÜD, which

started operations in 1866 as a boiler inspection association in Germany, has come a long, long way, evolving from a regional entity to one of the most sought-after global third party testing, inspection and certification body. In its march forward, the company expanded its operations into Asia in the 1990s with the formation of TÜV SÜD South Asia to cater to the Indian market, and subsequently the Bangladesh and Sri Lankan markets.

Its distinctive ability to customize offerings as per market requirements and help businesses drive their key objectives of delivering better, faster, efficiently and sustainably has made TÜV SÜD highly preferred by businesses in the South Asia region. Speaking exclusively to Apparel Online, CEO of TÜV SÜD South Asia Niranjan Nadkarni, reminisces his company’s journey in India and subsequently the region,

Bangladesh mainly to cater to the textile and leather industries in early 2008 with a state-of-the-art testing laboratory. Later to support exports, we expanded our presence in Bangladesh, by inaugurating an office in Chittagong. In the past eight years, we have expanded our offerings across sectors like infrastructure, power, training and environmental solutions. Through the coming years we plan to further scale up operations, invest more in innovations and come up with a wider array of services that are futuristic and reduce risks.

The setting up of new labs in India and Bangladesh has helped us upscale our service offerings. The inaugurations of each of the 16 state-of-the-art labs have been landmarks. Of these, six labs have softline testing capabilities (textile and/or leather). We also have offices across 32 locations in India, two in Bangladesh and one in Sri Lanka, which provide

Niranjan Nadkarni, CEO, TÜV SÜD South Asia

CEO of TÜV SÜD South Asia Niranjan Nadkarni shares his views and thoughts on the apparel sector in the region, and his company’s roadmap to help it attain business growth in a highly competitive environment.

Face to Face with the man behind TÜV SÜD’s South Asia operations

RESOURCECENTRE


hands-on business intelligence to companies by analysing their operations and helping them with end-to-end consultancy solutions at their doorstep.

AO What is the basic difference between India and Bangladesh in terms of service requirements?

NN: The textile sector in India and Bangladesh are contrasting yet similar in many ways. The contrast lies in the fact that both nations are at different stages of economic growth and their dependence on the sector is not the same. The consumption landscape for domestic and exports demand too is diverse.

The similarity lies in the fact that the textile industry is thriving in both markets. There is a significant policy thrust towards the growth of this sector across markets; and capital investments in the sector are available and customers across the globe are showing promise in working with manufacturers and suppliers.

The environment is conducive for success and it is now up to the textile manufacturers to channelize capital and utilize it optimally. For success in the sector, it is imperative to ensure that reputation is protected; access to markets is maximized; and input costs and inefficiencies are minimized. Reducing business risks as well as faster time to market are also critical to drive productivity and profits.

TÜV SÜD helps textile businesses map these parameters and chart the path to success. Our sector experts across the world helps cross pollination of technical expertise thereby ensuring greater acceptability for products in markets and lower risk of consignment rejection.

AO What have been the major challenges?

NN: The major challenges can be broadly divided into economic, compliance and policy-driven. Global economic headwinds have slowed down growth across sectors. Crude oil prices also have a direct bearing on the performance. As a result, product pricing becomes important and the sector gets competitive.

Businesses have a tendency to cut corners in the finer aspects of operations and this directly impacts productivity and quality. While the objective is to be competitively priced, uncelebrated cost cutting can lead to heavy financial losses. A major challenge has been to convince businesses to broaden their outlook and take a more strategic approach towards quality and process operations.

Compliance norms across the world are dynamic and differ across markets. Most developed markets that India and Bangladesh cater to have highly stringent market compliance norms across various aspects of production. The challenge here for the manufacturers is to ensure that they have an astute eye to detail. With global presence across various markets, TÜV SÜD helps suppliers with import market expertise to ensure that they comply with preset norms.

The third party testing landscape currently in both the countries is evolving. The numbers of businesses in the sector are more and the network of labs has scope for expansion. It is imperative for policy makers across both markets to drive the growth of this network by forging public-private partnerships like our labs in Ranipet and Ambur and involve textile businesses in the process. The growth of third party testing labs is crucial for the growth of this sector and can be an essential cog for business success.

AO: With evolving requirements, what is the focus area and role of testing/audit companies now, and why?

NN: Development in most countries is a function of the way businesses approach efficiency in operations. Further, exponentially growing consumer aspirations have added to the demand for high-quality products. As a result, businesses are increasingly in the need of partners that help them operate efficiently and manufacture world-class products at the same time.

A few decades ago the role of most testing companies was to ensure that basic safety and quality procedures are followed and were more focused on the end-product. The level of

involvement of testing companies in business operations has grown through the years. Today, it is not just the quality of the end-product but also the process followed to manufacture it that is closely tested and monitored. Businesses today are more sensitive towards driving efficiency and delivering the best possible product to consumers and third party testing companies have therefore become an integral part of their functioning.

Globally, there is a resource crunch and turnaround times are higher. This requires very high level of productivity to be profitable. The focus now is to educate businesses about the extent of impact that efficiency and quality can have on profitability.

AO What according to you gives TÜV SÜD an edge over other companies offering similar services?

NN: TÜV SÜD provides holistic solutions for businesses across sectors. We have been inspiring trust among our customers for the past 150 years. The kinds of services we provide have a direct critical impact on companies’ reputation and credibility. It therefore becomes imperative for us to be independent and impartial. These are the basic tenets of our business and they have not changed with time, despite our service offerings having evolved.

Today, our global account management processes follows a highly customized format for all markets with sector experts at TÜV SÜD working round the clock to ensure that global standards are met while keeping local regulations in mind and at the same time safeguarding our promise of independence and impartiality. When companies choose us for business, they choose certainty and we ensure that every effort taken by us, adds value to the way they operate, all this while inspiring trust.

AO With a long history behind you, what are the new directions that TÜV SÜD is looking at?

NN: The fact that we are celebrating our 150th anniversary this year is a testimony of our perseverance and drive to evolve as per market requirements. Our company’s mission

RESOURCECENTRE


has not changed over the years as we continue to protect man, environment and property against technology-related risks.

In the decades to come, the company will focus on four strategic themes which we believe will shape the narrative of commerce and society:

Sustainable development

Consumer protection

Urbanisation

Digital transformation

Digital transformation will affect virtually all sectors of business, industry and society with enormous impact – including many of our core business models. All our activities in this field will revolve around the central question of how business, industry and society can make use of the opportunities offered by digitisation while keeping the associated risks to a minimum.

Digitisation is beginning to have a direct impact on the apparels sector as well. Global supply chains for apparels have become increasingly complex. The rapid turnover of fashion trends creates a need for superior efficiency for clothing companies. Digitisation has the potential to act as a key enabler in such scenarios. TÜV SÜD with its glocal expertise can provide world class and cost-effective solutions that can meet customer as well as regulatory requirements.

Apparel Industry Suppliers Exhibition (AISEX) which aims

to bring all suppliers and service organizations under one roof for the Sri Lankan manufacturing industry is being revived as AISEX after a lapse of 7 years mainly due to the positive vibe created in the industry after the recent visit by the EU delegation and the prospect of GSP plus. The industry is seeing a rapid growth in terms of production, and Sri Lanka is still considered as a favourite sourcing destination due to its best practices

and ethical manufacturing (garment without guilt).

AISEX 2016 will take place from the 9th to 11th of June 2016 at the Sirimavo Bandaranaike Memorial Exhibition Center (BMICH) in Colombo and will focus on a wide range of textile machinery, accessories and services from many parts of the world.

The Sri Lankan garment industry is rated very high on benchmark practices

The event is organized by Lanka Exhibition & Conference Services (Pvt.) Ltd. – LECS and supported and endorsed by the Sri Lanka Apparel Institute (SLAI) and the Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF). AISEX aims to sharpen the manufacturers hunger for technological innovations in the apparel industry and the organisers hope to provide the garment industry with the complete solutions necessary to forge ahead.

In an industry where productivity is the key to success, the impact of new innovations and inventions plays a vital role in determining the success of the manufacturer. AISEX will encourage suppliers and service organizations to showcase their latest products for the apparel manufacturers. The networking that is inevitable to take place during this exhibition will also help build global relationships between such parties.

The exhibition will generate new opportunities closer to home, within the South Asian region. There are emerging opportunities in regional markets and not just in the EU and the US. The domestic markets in the region are growing and there is an opportunity for local brands to target regional markets, like India. AISEX 2016 also aims to create opportunities for suppliers, manufacturers and services related to the apparel industry to display their latest range and developments.

SRI LANKA TO HOST APPAREL MACHINERY EXHIBITION IN JUNE 2016

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ELASTICS / TAPESHANGERS / SIZERINGS

From the basic to the inspirational...

We make it all...Manufacturers of : Plastic Hangers, Metal Hangers, Sizerings, Household Articles

H.K. ACCESSORIES PVT. LTD.Plot No. 2040, MIE Part-B, Bahadurgarh-124507 Haryana, Ph.: 01276-268640, Mob.: +91-9811168018, +91-9416211810 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected], Website: www.hkaccessories.com

From the basic to the inspirational...

WE MAKE IT ALL...Manufacturers of : Plastic Hangers, Metal Hangers, Sizerings, Household Articles

H.K. Accessories Pvt. Ltd. Plot No. 2040, MIE Part-B, Bahadurgarh-124507 Haryana, Ph.: 01276-268640, Mob.: +91-9811168018, +91-9416211810 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected]

HK


LABELS / TAGS / BARCODESBUTTONS / BUCKLES

THREADS / YARN HANGERS / PACKAGING ACCESSORIES

EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES

RESOURCECENTRE

www.nileshimpexindia.com

Nilesh Impex India (P) Ltd.

8/88, Laxmi Nager, 50 Feet Road, Tirupur - 641 602, Tamil Nadu, INDIAContact Person: R. Vijay Yadav - 94433 4238, Phone: 0421-4336765, 4336364

Email: [email protected], [email protected]

(Manufacturers of Plastic Seal Tags)

Tagging the BEST

LABELS / TAGS

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different ball game, but we are managing it,” informed Rajkumar Rai, DMM, of the company, associated with the organization from the last 23 years and having overall experience of 35 years in the industry.

The company having experience of sourcing a large variety – knits, woven and leather products – for overseas markets, have three labels for the domestic markets – ‘Zivani’, ‘Land of August’ and ‘Urban Rust’. All these are available on famous e-commerce sites. The company has its own small but advanced manufacturing unit to cater small orders with extraordinary quality. “We carry detailed composition labels on our garments like international brands, which is still not seen in many good Indian brands. Similarly be it stitch density or any other aspect about quality, we are at par in this segment as we are used to offering the same to German buyers. This quality is our strength; also it helps create awareness for Indian customers,” reasons Rajkumar.

INTERCONTI PROJECTS EXPLORING DOMESTIC MARKETS; WILL START MENSWEAR FOR THE SAME

Not only Indian garments exporters, but even some buying houses are

exploring opportunities in the Indian domestic market as some of them are increasing their space in this market. Concentrating on German market for the last three decades, Interconti Projects, Delhi is now focusing more on domestic market and gradually growing in this segment. Offering its own three labels with German quality standard for domestic garment, it is also in the process to start menswear which is expected to be in stores by the festival season (Diwali). The company is also exploring un-traditional markets like Africa, Australia, and Singapore. “Germany was our main market and we had very good clients there but as overall Europe is not doing well and international markets are becoming tough, things were getting difficult and still it will take time to regain the business and make it sustainable. So doing domestic business was a good option. Though it is quite a

TOM TAILOR GROUP PLANS TO SHUT 82 TO 100 STORES Tom Tailor Group plans, which registered 2.5 per cent rise in sales to € 955.9 million as compared to previous fiscal year 2015, has plans to close 80 to 100 stores in 2016, while opening up 30 more in new locations. Dieter Holzer, CEO of Tom Tailor Holding AG said, “The textile industry is undergoing rapid changes. Digitalization is opening up whole new worlds for product and service offerings. At the same time, shopping habits are changing, and buying decisions becoming more spontaneous. After years of strong growth, the Tom Tailor Group has entered a phase of ‘focusing’. We began responding to the changes in 2015 and plan to take a step-by-step approach in implementing the launched measures, which will improve our profitability and competitiveness in the long term.”

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