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Limosa Holidays & Travelling Naturalist Trip Report Sri Lanka: Jewel of the Indian Ocean Tue 12 th – Tue 26th November 2013 1 © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist ____________________________________________________________________________ Photos (clockwise, from top left): A Black Bittern at Debarawewa • Crested Hawk Eagle at close range at Blue Magpie Lodge • Male Purple-rumped Sunbird – one of many seen through the trip • At Kalametiya we had good views of Sri Lankan Swallow Many noisy parties of Square-tailed Bulbuls were seen The group along trail at Sinharaja © Brian Small/Limosa Holidays report compiled by tour leader: Brian Small _____________________________________________________________________________

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Limosa Holidays & Travelling Naturalist Trip Report

Sri Lanka: Jewel of the Indian Ocean Tue 12th – Tue 26th November 2013

1 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

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Photos (clockwise, from top left): A Black Bittern at Debarawewa • Crested Hawk Eagle at close range at Blue Magpie Lodge • Male Purple-rumped Sunbird – one of many seen through the trip • At Kalametiya we had good views of Sri Lankan Swallow • Many noisy parties of Square-tailed Bulbuls were seen • The group along trail at Sinharaja © Brian Small/Limosa Holidays

report compiled by tour leader: Brian Small

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Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

2 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

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Photos (clockwise, from top left): Three of the four Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters at Kithulgala • A Coppersmith Barbet at Tissa was very much enjoyed • Hill Swallow at Horton Plains Research Station – just about to be disturbed by a mighty cry of ‘LEOPARD’ • ‘Here’s looking at you kid!’ – Yellow-billed Babbler, Kandy • Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot hanging around at Blue Magpie • An adventurous group on the dug-out canoe, Kithulgala © Brian Small/Limosa Holidays _____________________________________________________________________________

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

3 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Trip Diary Tour Leaders: Brian Small & Tharanga Herath with Chris Denman, Keith Gooday, Rob & Kay Grimmond, Mike & Jane Larkin, Julia Mayne, Pam Phillipson, David & Diana Tan and Charlie & Jeanne Townsend Sri Lanka is a beautiful and a safe country to visit; the Limosa tour generally focuses on the southern two-thirds of the island. We started in the 'Wet Zone', where the forests are important areas for many of the endemic birds, here we spent the first five days of the tour at Sinharaja and Kithulgala in an attempt to find them all. We then moved southeast to the ‘Dry Zone’ savanna and coastal scrub at Udewalawe, Yala, Bundala, Kalametiya, and the large wetland areas near Tissa. Passing north into the highlands at Nuwara Eliya, we enjoyed the cooler weather and the national park at Horton Plains, before finally dropping down to Kandy and Sigiriya, both rich in birdlife. Birdwise, Sri Lanka hosts an exciting mix of endemic and typical southern Indian species, supported by an exciting array of winter visitors, often in good numbers. There are spectacular national parks that are home to wild Elephants and Leopards. For the third year running, Limosa returned to the southeast of the island and visited the national parks of Bundala and Yala. These areas had been off limits due to restrictions imposed by the recent civil war, but with stability returning we were once again able to enjoy the wildlife of this region. Wherever we went, we were made to feel welcome, with friendly smiles and attentive staff. The spicy Sri Lankan food was very much enjoyed - there was some disappointment whenever we were served with more western-style food, and we all tucked in. Many thanks must go to Tharanga, who was an excellent leader; to Tharindu the driver who was very safe in some tough conditions; and to Nalaka and Chamin who were both especially helpful. Having arrived in Colombo from London Gatwick, via Dubai, where we met up with Julia, we took the new road south before heading off east to our first lodge, the Blue Magpie – a forced change in itinerary from last year. The roadworks as we neared Sinharaja made progress very slow – painfully at times, but we eventually made it there for lunch. The paddyfields viewable from the eating area and the afternoon stroll along the entrance track were very rich in birds and we saw lots of new species. The most notable were the Crested Hawk-eagles – the pale birds were to become a feature of the tour, Sri Lanka Swallows, Brown Shrikes, various munias – including the often hard-to-get Black-throated, a female or young male Legge’s Flowerpecker, noisy Square-tailed Bulbuls, a coupled of Sri Lankan Crested Drongos, Crested Treeswifts and good views of a couple of Yellow-fronted Barbets. Sinharaja is a World Heritage site with some of the last remnants of Sri Lanka’s once extensive rainforest and we stayed for two nights, allowing for a whole day exploring its forest. There are many important species and it is the best place to see several. For example, the Sri Lankan Spurfowl, which we tried for on our first morning having first driven to the gate to collect our permits. Our excellent drivers took us to one of Tharanga’s special sites to try and find this, one of the most elusive of the island’s endemics. Layard’s Parakeets greeted us and having chosen quite a difficult spot to view, most eventually had views of a pair of spurfowl amongst some rocks and trees, though the heat seemed to be dulling their enthusiasm for putting on a good show; above us two Sri Lanka Hill Mynas perched and chattered away. We then moved into the National Park, where the drivers manhandled the jeeps over very rocky terrain. Stopping briefly for a Chestnut-backed Owlet, which called above us yet refused to show, we parked and spent most of the rest of the day walking to the Research Station and back.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

4 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Many of our target birds travel in mixed feeding flocks, and before too long we had found noisy groups, which included Ashy-headed Laughingthrushes and Orange-billed Babblers, though sadly the White-faced Starling flew off just as we picked up on it. As we walked slowly along the trail we found another group of birds that included Sri Lankan Scimitar-babblers and a Red-faced Malkoha sat high in the canopy. The malkoha was playing hide-and-seek with us, but in being patient it eventually came out in full view, allowing some amazing ‘scope views of its ivory coloured, rather bulbous bill – one of the birds of the trip in fact! At the same spot we had excellent views of Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, which seemed more numerous than last year, and of amazingly vibrant pairs of Orange Minivets. At the research station we were treated to good views of Sri Lankan Junglefowl, but the target species, Sri Lankan Blue Magpies, were conspicuous by their absence. Small parties of the delightful Dark-fronted Babbler showed well and were photographed. Despite our patience and having lunch in an attempt to attract them in, we drew a blank and eventually had to start back to the gate. All was not lost, as we were lucky (to some extent) in finding a group of the Sri Lankan Blue Magpies deep in the forest, but disappointingly most had to do with flight views as they moved off through the trees. A Scaly Thrush called, but failed to show itself to us. We stopped on the drive back to the lodge, having excellent views of Square-tailed Bulbuls, Black-hooded Orioles and a perched Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot. It was quite dark by the timed we arrived. The following morning, an early start allowed four hours birding before we departed for Kithulgala. We first drove to one of the rangers’ houses, as he had found a Sri Lankan Frogmouth. A bit of a clamber – and one or two leeches for our troubles, saw us looking down onto a female perched in the open - all mouth and no body – a real result! Back at the lodge we had another stroll in the hope that a Serendibs Scops Owl had been found that morning, but sadly this was not to be. We did have some good birds, including views of two skulking Green-billed Coucals – with others heard, and a good number of Legge’s Flowerpeckers and other species. Departing at 10.30 we had to drive north, thankfully on slightly better roads. After our picnic lunch en route, we arrived at Kithulgala mid afternoon – having stopped to watch some excellent Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters on wires across the river, and then spent a fruitful hour looking round the grounds, with three species of sunbird, notably the scythe-billed Loten’s and the multi-coloured Purple-rumped. Overhead three species of swift performed: Indian Swiftlet, Palm Swift and these were joined by a couple of Brown-backed Needletails. Southern Hill Mynas perched in trees across the river. Late afternoon found us at the area near the police station, where Black-capped Bulbuls and Black-rumped Flamebacks showed well – some saw Lesser Yellownape. A single Indian Pitta perched in the open before it typically skulked off, but Tharanga’s perseverance paid dividends when a Chestnut-backed Owlet began to call and we were able to see it in the twilight. Kithulgala is home to some of Sri Lanka’s endemic Wet Zone birds, and our hotel, which overlooks the Kelani River, became famous as one of the locations for the filming of ‘Bridge on the River Kwai’. Even today, photographs of Alec Guinness, Jack Hawkins, William Holden and their fellow co-stars decorate the walls. Early the next morning, we watched around the grounds again, finding Sri Lanka Grey Hornbills, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrikes, a lovely Forest Wagtail, Orange Minivets and two Lesser Yellownapes flew into the trees. Across the river, we could see a Sri Lankan Giant Squirrel and some saw a Stork-billed Kingfisher. All the while Green Warblers called and overhead Sri Lankan Swallows zoomed. Our river crossing in a dug-out canoe was, as ever eventful (the first group came across a man with a Spectacled Cobra in a jar!), and we had a very hot walk up the trail at Makandawa to the area to search for Serendibs Scops Owl. On the trail we had two close Brown-capped Babblers, more Dark-fronted Babblers and Common Ioras showed well, but despite Tharanga’s persistence, we did not find the owl.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

5 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

However, good numbers of dragonflies were about and we saw a number of butterflies including the impressive Indian Awl King. On another walk near the police station in the late afternoon we got good views of Sri Lankan Green and Green Imperial Pigeons, Forest Wagtail in the paddies, an elusive Emerald Dove and Sri Lankan Grey Hornbills. A pre-breakfast walk at the hotel enabled us to get more good views of the typical species, especially the flycatcher-shrikes and minivets, Black-hooded Orioles and White-throated Kingfishers, but following breakfast we left for Embilipitiya. Arriving in time for lunch, we checked into our rooms, had a brief look over the surrounding lake, which was swarming with 1000s of Whiskered and a few Gull-billed Terns, Indian Cormorants and Spot-billed Pelicans, and watched two Oriental Scops Owls in the hotel grounds. We then drove south to the fine wetland reserve at Kalametiya on the south coast. We spent a most pleasant late afternoon birding in the scrub and wetlands of the sanctuary. This was especially enjoyable as it was in contrast to the rainforest, with birds abundant and easily seen. Highlights included numerous herons and egrets, our first Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Jerdon’s Bushlarks, Little Green Bee-eaters, and a good variety of waders. Several Lesser Sandplovers, Marsh Sandpipers, Little Stints, two Black-tailed Godwits, Ruff, Indian Stone-curlew and Great Thick-knees. As the sun dipped towards the horizon we finally reached the Indian Ocean where many Crested Terns perched on the rocks and one or two Lesser Cresteds flew past. On a nearby pool, a Yellow Bittern perched in the reeds, and large numbers of Oriental Darters passed by. Oh, and there were lots of Indian Peafowl – big and gaudy, but much admired. Just as we were leaving, an Indian Pitta flew across the road and perched in the headlights; with the aid of extra torchlight we watched the bird at close quarters for some time – an excellent end to the day. The next day, leaving the hotel early gave us the chance to enter Udewalawe National Park at first light. We had a fantastic morning’s safari, and the many large mammals we saw were undoubtedly one of the highlights of the tour. We soon encountered our first Indian Rollers by the road – even on the road, plus numerous Plain and Ashy Prinias, other birds were plentiful too. Raptors provided many of the highlights: Crested Hawk-eagles, Crested Serpent Eagle, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Black-winged Kite, two Booted Eagles of the light form, a fine male Pallid Harrier on its kill, Oriental Honey Buzzard, etc.. Elephants were much in evidence, as were Water Buffalo. During our drive in the 4x4s through the grasslands, we watched flocks of Scaly-breasted and Black-headed Munias, Ashy and Plain Prinias, and a couple of Yellow-eyed Babblers, plenty of Jerdon’s Bushlark and a couple of Indian Pittas were glimpsed, but more views would have to wait. One of the best things, were great views of up to five Marshall’s Ioras, with huge amounts of white in the wing and tail; whilst we watched these, Indian Silverbills tried to take some of the limelight. We enjoyed our picnic breakfast on a rocky outcrop overlooking the reservoir with huge numbers of wetland birds, among them Spot-billed Pelicans, Painted Storks, Indian Cormorants, and many herons and egrets. One surprise was a single Red-rumped Swallow and as we drove along we were able to pick out a small number of parties of Barred Buttonquails that scurried away into cover, but paused long enough to be seen by some, giving excellent views. At the other end of cuteness and size scale, were the Lesser Adjutants. One of the highlights of the day (and indeed trip) was the large group of Malabar Pied Hornbills we came across. However, it was soon time to leave and we made the short drive to Tissa for lunch at our next hotel. Tissa is central to some wonderful birding and we enjoyed visits to the large tanks at Debarawewa and Tissa. These were created to provide soil and water for the rice fields (a natural balance encouraged by the Buddhist religion). The wetlands are very picturesque, as the lily-covered water reflects the huge rain trees that grow out of it. It abounded with birds, with highlights such as White-bellied Sea Eagles, Lesser

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

6 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Whistling Ducks, Purple and Grey Herons, many Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Black and Yellow Bitterns and Purple Swamphens. Once the egrets began to settle at roost it looked like snow-covered trees! At this site we also saw other woodland species, such as a brief Blue-faced Malkoha, Stork-billed Kingfishers and huge roosts of Indian Flying Foxes. In trackside bushes and trees we saw Coppersmith Barbets, Small Minivets, Jerdon’s Leafbird, and our first good views of Sri Lanka Woodshrike. This is truly a bird-rich habitat and was very much enjoyed by us all. At the hotel we saw a young or non-breeding Watercock. On one morning we explored Bundala National Park, where we had a short walk to the viewing platform whilst we waited for the tickets. Hundreds of Whiskered and Little Terns flew about and the water held many Pygmy Geese. We had a fine safari out through the amazing wetlands to a series of pans that held hundreds of waders and terns. A couple of Greater Sandplovers were found amongst the many Lessers, a Red-necked Phalarope fed on the brackish water, many Curlew and Marsh Sandpipers, plus a good flock of Pacific Golden Plover flew over the pans. The terns consisted of a large flock of Crested and Lesser Cresteds, but also Common, Little, Whiskered and White-winged Black. Five Small Pratincoles delighted us, and Ringed Plovers were picked out from groups of Kentish. Along the reed edges diminutive Yellow Bitterns stealthily hunted; in the reeds we heard and saw a number of Clamorous Reed Warblers of the endemic race meridionalis, while towering Purple and Grey Herons stalked the deeper waters, with small numbers of nervous Pintail Snipe feeding in the cropped grass. Two Black-naped Hares hid in the undergrowth. And so to Yala NP on our last afternoon in the south. Yala still remains the best place to see Leopard in Sri Lanka, so if this is your ambition, then a visit to Yala is a must. We knew this, but so do all the tourists who now visit the island in ever-increasing numbers - tranquility was extremely difficult to find in the dust churned up by the jeeps that roar around. Sadly, though, we saw no cats, Chital and Sambar, Wild Boar and Buffalo were all in evidence. A couple of Hoopoes were noted in flight and two buttonquails were picked up – pleasing for those that had missed them before. At dusk, just outside the park entrance, a couple of Indian Nightjars showed in the headlights. En route to Nuwara Eliya, the former hill station situated at 2000 m on Sri Lanka’s cool highlands, nestling by lakeside waters set amidst tea plantations, we paused at the Rawana waterfalls for a cup of tea. However, the staff were at a party so we just walked to the waterfall and used the facilities. It was here that Diana was ‘mugged’ by a particularly surly looking Toque Macaque, that gave her a little punch as it grabbed the biscuits she had bought – hence their name ‘took m’cake’. Stopping at the Surrey Tea Estate was very productive, with close views of Sri Lanka Wood Pigeon and a good flock of small birds that included Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, minivets, Cinereous Tits, Common Iora and the misnamed Dull-blue Flycatcher. Just as we were leaving the guide for the pair of Brown Wood Owls arrived and so we went back 100m and saw them – one of them well. Having settled into the hotel and enjoyed lunch, we made for the town’s renowned Victoria Park, home to winter migrants and montane endemics. In a couple of hours we focussed on trying to find Kashmir Flycatcher, which eventually called and allowed some fair views in dense undergrowth. Chesty Forest Wagtails fed by the stream, and just as we about to leave a smart male Indian Blue Robin settled on the path. No visit to the highlands would be complete without an early start to Horton Plains! This attractive region encompasses a patchwork landscape of wooded hillsides and grassy plains. We reached the entrance just after 05.45am and (most) were rewarded with views of Indian Blackbirds feeding by the roadside. As dawn broke, we were treated to a gloriously clear and calm day, and two Yellow-eared Bulbuls perched in the open and many Sri Lankan White-eyes were conspicuous, but it was Sri Lanka’s notoriously elusive Whistling Thrush that we hoped to see.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

7 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

At the pool, we could hear at least two birds calling and with patience, and a bit of coaxing, we had brief views of this difficult-to-see species; a dark thrush with a hint of blue on the wing. Just along the track we managed to get good views of a pair of Sri Lanka Bush Warbler – the female with a pale eye, several Green Warblers and a couple of Dull-blue Flycatchers. By mid morning we moved on to the grasslands where Pied Bushchats showed nicely atop the low bushes and grass tussocks, Oriental Honey Buzzards drifted by and three Jerdon’s Baza displayed overhead. Hill Swallows zapped about and perched on the buildings, but the amazing highlight was a Leopard found by Julia as she scanned the landscape with the ‘scope. Her shout of ‘LEOPARD’ may well have been heard on Mars! It strutted across the grassland, but entering some bushes it simply disappeared despite plenty of searching. Distant herds of Sambar grazed the grasslands, but one strolled around the car park. Our next destination was Kandy, but we paused along the way at the Glenloch tea factory for a very interesting tour of the factory and a quick cuppa - it is also a reliable site for Hill Swallow, which again showed to perfection - nice for Kay as she had been unwell the previous day. We left laden down with tea of all shapes and tastes. The weather threatened to close in, and having lunched at our hotel, the Suisse (an old building used by Lord Mountbatten during the Second World war),a we set off for the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens. We spent much of the afternoon exploring the extensive grounds, with our wanted species, Crimson-fronted Barbet, finally seen well – in fact five! Other highlights included Coppersmith Barbets, and Orange Minivets, good views of Alexandrine Parakeets and two Brown-backed Needletails. Across the city we visited the Temple of the Tooth in a torrential downpour, with loud claps of thunder echoing around the city; it all added to the experience. Julia helped the singing locals to give back the shoes. Leaving early to visit Udewattakele, we strolled the trail for over two hours, but eventually the leeches (which were really bad this year) drove us out. We had seen a few birds – White-rumped Shama the best – and heard others – Brown Fish Owl. Our final destination was Sigiriya, a World Heritage site dominated by a large granite outcrop with an ancient settlement built on the summit. A quick stop in the afternoon produced numerous species: White-browed Fantail, Indian Robins, Sri Lanka Green Pigeons, Asian Paradise Flycatchers, all came quickly. Sri Lanka Swallows, more barbets, Crested Treeswifts, Brown Flycatcher followed – it was very good birding. Popping round the back of the hill, we searched for Orange-headed Ground Thrush, and were eventually rewarded with one bathing in a puddle on the track, with a shama. Perhaps the real highlight here were the Crimson-backed Woodpeckers that came to sit in the bare trees, as they hammered away. The hotel was very good and welcoming, though a gentle stroll the following morning around the perimeter of the complex was quiet in the mist – though Charlie’s stroll was to the top to view the settlement! Another visit to the moat around the archaeological site of produced Jungle and mating Plain Prinias, many Common Ioras, Grey-bellied Cuckoo and more species. A local drive also produced plenty of butterflies in the heat, yet more Indian Pittas in the leaf litter, but it was time to leave. Following lunch, we journeyed back to the coast in preparation for our flights to the UK. The local hotel at Colombo was close to the airport, where we found ourselves early the next morning. We said our goodbyes to Tharanga and the lads and passed through security, returning to Gatwick via Dubai. I hope you all enjoyed the tour as much as I did. Between us we had seen or heard all but one of Sri Lanka’s 33 currently recognised endemic bird species, with Indian Pitta, Kashmir Flycatcher, Orange-headed Thrush, Red-faced Malkoha, together with masses of shorebirds and terns which added variety, quality and quantity to our experience. By the end, we had recorded a very respectable 241 bird and many butterfly species. However, for me it was the fun we had enjoyed, with lots of laughs, great food and lots of shared experiences not to be forgotten. Thank you.

Brian Small

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

8 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

ANNOTATED LIST OF BIRDS (A total of 241 species recorded by the group)

Sri Lankan Spurfowl Galloperdix bicalcarata ENDEMIC

Two seen at Sinharaja on 14th; heard the next day and at Horton Plains on 22nd Sri Lanka Junglefowl Gallus lafayetti ENDEMIC

Seen on six dates, the best being five at Sinharaja Indian Peafowl Pavo cristata

Common in dry wooded grasslands at Udewalawe, Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala. Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica

Common at Kalametiya and on the larger tanks at Tissa and Debarawewa Cotton Pygmy-goose Nettapus coromandelianus

Four at Bundala and 16 at Tissa Tanks on 20th Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope Two 1w males at KalametiyaPintail Anas acuta Pintail Anas acuta Male at Kalametiya Garganey Anas querquedula

Just two at Yala Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

Surprisingly scarce. Noted on four dates in small numbers on most tanks we checked. Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala

Small numbers noted at Udewalawe, Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans

Fairly widespread in small numbers on most rice fields even well inland; noted on ten dates Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus Noted on four dates, Udewalawe had ten Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus

Four at Udewalawe the only ones seen Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephala

A widespread and fairly common species, frequently seen feeding in roadside paddy, and noted on seven dates

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 20 on our first day near the government buildings; also at Kalametiya, Bundala on other sites Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis

Seen on four dates, with our first at Kalametiya the 15 at Debarawewa tank Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis

A male was in the canal at Debarawewa on 18th, then three the next day and one after that – always great to see

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Noted on six dates, with good numbers often seen in flight at dusk; high numbers at Tissa

Striated Heron Butorides striata Three at Bundala and two at Tissa

Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Common, widespread and seen most days, Occurs in any open, damp habitat.

Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus Widespread and abundant, occurring in wetlands and open country throughout

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Small numbers noted at Embilipitiya, Udewalawe, Kalametiya, Bundala, Yala and the Tissa region.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Seven dates in fair numbers; that sunning itself at Bundala was nice as it held its wings open showing the brightly coloured underwing coverts

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

9 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Great White Egret Ardea alba Distribution similar to that of Purple Heron, but more likely to be seen with other egrets in roadside rice fields.

Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia Quite straightforward when you get your eye in.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta Common and widely recorded.

Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis Widespread and numerous, seen on eight dates

Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger Common, widely recorded throughout the island even in small streams and seen daily

Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis Much less widespread than Little Cormorant and significantly less numerous and noted on seven dates

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 20+ at Udewalawe and two at Bundala.

Darter Anhinga melanogaster Small numbers seen at Embilipitiya, Udewalawe NP, Kalametiya, Bundala, Yala and tanks throughout the Tissa region.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Just one our first day Peregrine Falco peregrinus

Two in flight over the valley by the waterfall at Rawana Ella. Birds breeding in Sri Lanka and peninsular India are of the resident form, F. p. peregrinator (also known as the Shaheen Falcon)

Osprey Pandion haliaetus One at Bundala

Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus Noted on seven dates with the best views and highest numbers at Horton Plains

Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus Seen only at Udewalawe with up to ten seen

Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus A widespread bird throughout the lowlands, particularly near wetlands and the coast. Noted on 12 dates

White-bellied Sea-eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster Not restricted to the coast in Sri Lanka, in fact it seems to be quite scarce in coastal regions, whereas it is fairly widespread and common inland. Seen on just five days

Grey-headed Fish Eagle Haliaeetus ichthyaetus Seen on four dates, the first on day one; best views had at Bundala

Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela Widespread in small numbers, particularly in the Wet Zone. Noted on 11 days

Pallid Harrier Circus macrurous An adult male gave great views on the round at Udewalawe on 18th – bird of the trip?

Jerdon’s Baza Aviceda jerdoni Three at the breakfast area on Hoton Plains showed really well Shikra Accipiter badius

This is a widespread species but it can be quite secretive. In total, just 11 birds were seen on eight dates Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis

This eagle hunts low over the canopy where it preys chiefly on Giant Squirrels. Noted on eight days Booted Eagle Aquila pennata

Two pale morphs at Udewalawe and one at Tissa Rufous-bellied Hawk-eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii

Just one at a rest stop on our first day – a thinly distributed species Crested Hawk-eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus

Fair numbers noted on 11 dates; the pale birds are very smart and that at Sinharaja was especially tame

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

10 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Widespread, common and noted on all but two dates

Watercock Gallicrex cinerea A young bird was found near the hotel at Tissa

Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio Common, often in large groups of up to 30, at Bundala, Debarawewa and Tissa tanks, and Sigiriya. The various populations of this species are accorded species status by some authorities. The form occurring in Sri Lanka and India is the ‘Grey-headed’ Swamphen P. p. poliocephalus.

Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Only seen at Bundala

Coot Fulica atra One on our first day and then 12 at Bundala

Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator Five seen during the safari drive at Udewalawe but not by all, so it was good to see two at Yala.

Indian Stone-curlew Burhinus indicus Just two at Kalametiya and ten at Udewalawe the next day

Great Thick-knee Burhinus recurvirostris Seen on four dates: the first at eight at Kalametiya, then at Udewalawe, Bundala and Yala

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus The same sites as the previous species

Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus The first 20 at Kalametiya, then at Bundala and Yala NPs

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus Common and widespread throughout lowland wetlands. Endemic subspecies V. i. lankae.

Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva 300-400 circled Bundala pans on 19th and we saw several on the bunds; three at Yala

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Several at Kalametiya and Bundala

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Up to ten at Bundala

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Three at Bundala on 19th

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Seen at Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala. One at the last site was a locally colour-ringed bird of the distinctive resident race C. a. seebohmi, endemic to Sri Lanka and southernmost India. These birds are slightly smaller than the northern breeders and show a proportionately smaller, more delicate bill structure. In breeding plumage, the males lack the orange crown typical of the northern forms and show reduced dark breast patches and an extensive white forecrown.

Lesser Sandplover Charadrius mongolus Good numbers at Kalametiya and at Bundala and Yala. The race that commonly winters in Sri Lanka is C. m. atrifrons (probably also including races schaeferi and pamirensis), which breeds in the high mountains of Central Asia, from the Pamirs to the Tibetan plateau.

Greater Sandplover Charadrius leschenaultii Two with Lesser Sandplovers at Bundala and showed well in comparison to the nearby Lessers.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus Plentiful in low-lying wetlands and tanks, particularly numerous at Debarawewa and Tissa tanks and at Sigiriya; one flying group at Tissa numbered over 200!

Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis A fabulous female found by Diana on the rice fields by the hotel at Tissa on 18th Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura

Five en route on 17th and two at Kalametiya the same day; at least ten were seen feeding at Debarawewa and ten at Bundala

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

11 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Just two large birds, presumably of the nominate race, at Kalametiya

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica Just one at Bundala

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata Nine at Kalametiya and four at Bundala; all of the eastern race orientalis

Redshank Tringa totanus Noted on three dates. Common in coastal wetlands at Kalametiya, at Bundala and Yala

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis This is a very elegant wader and is was nice to see15+ at Kalemetiya and others at Bundala and Yala

Greenshank Tringa nebularia Quite scarce in comparison to the previous two species, with four at Kalametiya, ten at Bundala NP and two at Yala NP.

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus One at Udewalawe Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

Few: two at Bundala NP and two at Yala Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

All sightings came from the southeast – Kalametiya, Bundala NP and Yala NP – except for one at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya

Turnstone Arenaria interpres Ten at Kalametiya, also seen at Bundala and Yala.

Sanderling Calidris alba One at Bundala Little Stint Calidris minuta

At least 30 at Kalametiya, c. 200 at Bundala and at Yala - on the entrance road and in the park Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

About 20+ at Bundala and 12 at Yala Ruff Philomachus pugnax Just two: one at Kalametiya and one at Yala Small Pratincole Glareola lactea Four at Bundala - a really sweet bird Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus

One mobile bird at Bundala Little Tern Sternula albifrons

Two at Kalametiya, but 100s at Bundala – the dark grey rumps of many would suggest the form sinensis or maybe just the chance of one or two Saunders’s Tern?

Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Noted on five dates, en route on the first day, at the lake by the hotel at Embilipitiya, 50 at Bundala NP

Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Two at kalametiya, at least 100 noted at Bundala Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida

The most numerous and widespread tern, regularly recorded in small numbers at many freshwater wetlands and rice paddy throughout the lowlands of the Dry Zone. Several hundred noted at Embilipitiya, Kalametiya Bundala, Udewalawe and at wetlands near Tissa and Sigiriya.

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus Noted at Kalametiya, Deberawewa and others at Bundala and Tiss.

Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii 300+ on large rocks off the beach at Kalametiya and 150+ at Bundala. These birds showed a dark grey mantle and wings, much darker than Lesser Cresteds

Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis Three at Kalametiya and over 100 on bunds at Bundala

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

12 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Common Tern Sterna Hirundo Several at Bundala Feral Rock Dove Columba livia

Widely noted in towns and villages throughout but absent from forested areas Sri Lankan Wood Pigeon Columba torringtoniae ENDEMIC

This can be one of the trickier of the endemics to track down, so we were lucky to see three at close range at Surrey Tea Estate on 21st; also heard at Nuwara Eliya

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Common, widespread and seen daily. Endemic subspecies S. c. ceylonensis.

Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Two at Bundala suggests a range extension Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica

Singles at Kithulgala and Blue Magpie Lodge and the best at Sigiriya. Endemic subspecies C. i. robinsoni.

Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicincta Restricted to the Dry Zone where it was noted on four dates, at Udewalawe, Kalametiya, Bundala, and Yala. Endemic subspecies T. b. leggei

Sri Lanka Green Pigeon Treron pompadora ENDEMIC Fairly common and encountered on seven dates. At Sinharaja, Kithulgala and, further north, at Kandy and Sigiriya.

Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Widely recorded in wooded areas in the Wet Zone, being most numerous at Kithulgala and Sinharaja. In the Dry Zone of the southeast, much less common with ones and twos seen daily.

Sri Lankan Hanging Parrot Loriculus beryllinus ENDEMIC Quite common in wooded areas and parks of the Wet Zone, including Sinharaja and Kithulgala, but fewer seen after that. The distinctive ‘spik’ always let you know one was about to fly over.

Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria In the Wet Zone, daily at Kithulgala. Then at Tissa and our best views at the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens in Kandy

Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Common and widespread throughout the Dry Zone.

Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala Just ten at Udewalawe NP. Now separated from the Blossom-headed Parakeet P. roseata of northeast India and southeast Asia.

Layard's Parakeet Psittacula calthropae ENDEMIC Restricted to the Wet Zone, where it was regularly heard and seen at Sinharaja and Kithulgala, and also seen and heard at Sigiriya.

Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus Twos at Udewalawe and Bundala; one at Yala. Jacobin Cuckoo is the name in widespread use for this

species in Africa. In Asia, however, it is more commonly known as the Pied Cuckoo. Grey-bellied Cuckoo Cacomantis passerinus

Just two at Udewalawe and one at Sigiriya – which showed the best Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea

As this species calls less in November than February, we only saw it on four dates Blue-faced Malkoha Rhopodytes viridirostris

One at Tissa on 18th was very elusive Red-faced Malkoha Phaenicophaeus pyrrhocephalus ENDEMIC

This can be a difficult bird to see well as they often move rapidly through the canopy with mixed feeding parties and are often gone before you appreciate they are there, offering just the briefest of glimpses. So we were particularly pleased to see two well at Sinharaja – a bird of the trip for some

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis Widespread and particularly numerous, being seen or heard on nine dates

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

13 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Green-billed Coucal Centropus chlororhynchus ENDEMIC We were pleased to see two at Sinharaja and others heard; one also heard at Kithulgala

Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena Two roosting birds showed well in the hotel grounds at Embilipitiya

Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica A pair of these large owls at their daytime roost showed well at the Surrey Tea Estate. This the fifth time that we have recorded this species on a tour to Sri Lanka

Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis One heard at Uttawatakele, but could not be located

Chestnut-backed Owlet Glaucidium castanonotum ENDEMIC We saw this endemic owl at dusk in Kithulgala, having worked hard to find it at Sinharaja.

Sri Lankan Frogmouth Batrachostomus moniliger A female was found roosting at Sinharaja by the rangers in one of their gardens. Despite its name, this species also occurs in the mountains of southwestern India and is not endemic to Sri Lanka.

Indian Nightjar Caprimulgus asiaticus Two showed well in the bus headlight just after dusk at Yala

Indian Swiftlet Collocalia unicolor Recorded daily in good numbers. An extremely complex genus, this species has previously been treated as a race of Edible-nest Swiftlet C. fuciphaga.

Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus Four at Kithulgala zooming by and at Kandy

Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis Noted daily in fair numbers throughout.

Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Two at Udewalawe and then up to 40 at Nuwara Eliya; ten at Horton Plain the next day showed well

Little Swift Apus affinis Noted on only five dates, the best views at Bundala and Sigiriya

Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata Views of many birds at Blue Magpie Lodge spoilt us, also noted at Yala and two at Sigiriya perched closely on trees

Malabar Trogon Harpactes fasciatus Just two at Sinharaja. Endemic subspecies H. f. fasciatus.

Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Ten seen at Udewalawe

Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis The huge kingfisher was noted on seven dates: calling at Kithulgala, at Tissa tank and Sigiriya

White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Widespread throughout the country and recorded daily

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Ones and twos noted on eight days

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Singles at Udewalawe and Tissa, followed by seven at Bundala. The race C. r. travancoreensis is restricted to southwest India and Sri Lanka.

Little Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis Regularly encountered throughout the dry lowland regions of Sri Lanka, where it was common at Kalametiya Udewalawe, Bundala and Yala, and throughout the Sigiriya area. The race M. o. ceylonicus is endemic to Sri Lanka.

Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus A common and widespread winter visitor, which was seen daily. Formerly included with Blue-cheeked M. persicus and Olive Bee-eaters under M. superciliosus.

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaultii Four on wires across the Kelani River, Kithulgala on two dates; 12 en route to Sigiriya on 23rd

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

14 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Eurasian Hoope Upupa epops One at Bundala and two at Yala Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill Ocyceros gingalensis ENDEMIC

First seen at Kithulgala then two more at Sigiriya Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus

15 at Udewalawe were one of the highlights; 12 at Yala Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica

Noted on 12 days in fair numbers; their call is one of the sounds of Sri Lanka Yellow-fronted Barbet Megalaima flavifrons ENDEMIC

Recorded on five dates, the first found right by the food area at Blue Magpie Crimson-fronted Barbet Megalaima rubricapillus ENDEMIC

We searched for these at Sinharaja and elsewhere, but had to wait until late in the trip before we saw good numbers at Kandy and Sigiriya

Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala Noted on five dates, with our first at Tissa being very smart

Indian Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopus nanus One at Udewalawe and two at Sigiriya

Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopus mahrattensis The only one of the trip was seen at Udewalawe, and did its best to hide in a low tree

Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus One at Kithulgala police station for a few, but then two the next day at the hotel.

Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense A numerous and widespread woodpecker and seen on eight dates with good views at various places. The endemic subspecies D. b. psarodes we encountered shows red, rather than golden orange, wings and mantle, but does intergrade with the golden mantled form D. b. jaffnense, which is endemic to northern Sri Lanka.

Crimson-backed Flameback Chrysocolaptes stricklandi ENDEMIC The fantastic colour of the back was much admired on the three at Sigiriya. Superb!

Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura Noted on six dates, but usually just singletons. The first was at Kithulgala, the best was at Kalametiya and the most were at Sinharaja

Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus We had super views of a number of feeding parties at Kithulgala and Udewattakele, but that was all. Endemic subspecies H. p. leggei.

Sri Lanka Woodshrike Tephrodornis affinis ENDEMIC Only really seen well at Tissa on 20th.

Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus Noted on two days, with two adults feeding young at Tissa the best views

Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Recorded on eight dates; first seen at Blue Magpie. The males are especially smart and a little variable

Marshall’s Iora Aegithinia nigrolutea It was great to see five at Udewalawe so well. A recently discovered population on Sri Lanka that may well be a new subspecies

Black-headed Cuckoo-shrike Coracina melanoptera A male at Sinharaja, but then a small group of displying males and a few females chasing around at Sigiriya

Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus Having struggled early in the tour, we then found a few on four dates, the first at Tissa – a lovely species and greatly enjoyed

Orange Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus Retinal burning views on seven dates and very much enjoyed as they fed in trees at Sinharaja, Kithulgala, Surrey Tea estate, Horton Plains, Glenloch and at Udewattakele.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

15 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus Recorded on 12 dates, the first at Blue Magpie Lodge. Most appeared to be the paler lucionensis, which breeds in southern and eastern China and mostly winters in the Philippines.

Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus Very much appreciated by all. Noted daily as fairly common and widely recorded in wooded areas in both the Wet and Dry Zones throughout the country.

White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens Seen regularly and in good numbers in the Wet Zone - not recorded from the Dry Zone.

Sri Lanka Crested Drongo Dicrurus lophorinus ENDEMIC A group of two at Sinharaja on our first day and then three over the next two days. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) propose to split the endemic Sri Lanka race from other populations of Greater Racket-tailed Drongo on mainland India and elsewhere.

White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola This attractive species was noted on just three dates in the second week; the first in rain trees at Tissa on 20th

Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea Elusive throughout the trip and seen on just three days. The first at Sinharaja and at Udewattakele and Sigiriya.

Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi Recorded on eight dates, but mostly the rufous form; two white males were seen at Sinharaja and Udewattakele. The best views were at Sigiriya of a fine male and female displaying

Sri Lankan Blue Magpie Urocissa ornata ENDEMIC Well, we struggled for this at Sinharaja with just three elusive birds seen deep in the woods on our return to the gate

House Crow Corvus splendens Widespread and extremely common

Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos Widespread, seen on nine dates

Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis One in the Surrey Tea estate and two at Nuwara Eliya Cinereous Tit Parus cinereus

Seen really well at the Surrey Tea estate, where a small group of over five had gathered in a mobile flock; also at Nuwara Eliya and Horton Plain. These grey and white birds are generally separated as Cinereous or Asian Grey Tit, with the race occurring in Sri Lanka being mahrattarum

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Widely recorded throughout the country and noted on 12 dates.

Hill Swallow Hirundo domicola Seen really well at Horton Plains and the Glenloch Tea Estate. Formerly included in Pacific Swallow H. tahitica. This species is restricted to Sri Lanka and the Western Ghats region of southern India.

Sri Lankan Swallow Cecropis hyperythra ENDEMIC Seen on ten dates, this very smart and richly coloured swallow was much admired. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) propose to split this endemic Sri Lanka race from other populations in mainland India and elsewhere, although the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica A single bird flew about the vehicles at Udewalawe on 18th; the red rump was obvious, but the very pale underparts distinctly different to Sri Lanka Swallow

Jerdon's Bushlark Mirafra affinis Noted on five days, the first at Kalametiya – which called its thin contact call; others at Udewalawe, Yala and Sigiriya. A recent change in the taxonomy of Mirafra bushlarks resulted in this taxon being split from the Rufous-winged or Bengal Bushlark M. assamica.

Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix grisea 20 flew past at the breakfast site at Udewalawe, then 15 the next day at Bundala

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

16 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula Just two at Bundala and two at Yala

Black-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus ENDEMIC Seen on three dates at Sinharaja and Sigiriya. This Sri Lankan endemic taxon is now split by Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) from other populations of Black-headed Yellow or Black-crested Bulbul P. flaviventris occurring on mainland Asia

Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Common and widespread throughout, and recorded daily

Yellow-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus penicillatus ENDEMIC Generally elusive, with just four seen at Horton Plains

White-browed Bulbul Pycnonotus luteolus Seen in low numbers on seven dates – nice looking when seen well. Endemic subspecies P. l. insulae.

Yellow-browed Bulbul Iole indica Relatively common in the wet areas and we groups of them on five dates. Endemic subspecies I. i. guglielmi.

Square-tailed Bulbul Hypsipetes ganeesa Several noisy pairs or small flocks of up to 20 birds seen on six days. Seen firstly and perhaps best at Sinharaja. The southern Indian and Sri Lankan birds have recently been split from Black Bulbul by Rasmussen & Anderton (2005). The endemic subspecies humei are said to differ vocally from those in southern India, so may be split again

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Recorded on five dates, in dry-zone grasslands such as Udewalawe, Bundala and Yala

Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica Singles at Udewalawe and Sigiriya – the latter singing by the village

Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis This attractive prinia was seen well at Udewalawe, then at Nuwara Eliya near the hotel. Males can vary in the amount of pale peachy colour they have over the lores forming a small supercilium

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata Seen on seven dates and most common in the Tissa and Nuwara Eliya areas. Previously included within Tawny-flanked Prinia P. subflava of Africa, which it not only looks like, but at times calls like.

Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Widespread and recorded virtually daily, though sometimes hard to see well

Sri Lankan Bush Warbler Elaphrornis palliseri ENDEMIC An elusive bird for us this year, with just two seen at dawn at Horton Plains, but these two were seen excellently with a small flock of Dark-fronted Babblers

Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus Three in song and a number showing well in Typhus at Bundala. Endemic subspecies meridionalis, sometimes known as Indian Reed Warbler

Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Noted on eight dates, but most often heard than seen. We saw a couple well though with perseverance at Victoria Park, Horton Plain and Nuwara Eliya

Green Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus We were ‘treated’ to large numbers of calling and occasionally singing birds at a number of sites and recorded daily, with good views of quite a few – if you wanted to make the effort. We made a special note of its Pied Wagtail-like trisyllabic call and heard at least one bird call so much like a Greenish Warbler which winters throughout India, that it was hard to believe it was not one

Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris Noted on seven dates, but seen well on few occasions, notably at Sinharaja and Sigiriya. Once known, the call and song of this species, which are regularly given, are quite distinctive.

Brown-capped Babbler Pellorneum fuscocapillum ENDEMIC A generally unobtrusive species with pairs seen on three dates. The first at Sinharaja by a few, then at Kithulgala and finally the best of two walking on the leaf litter at Sigiriya

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

17 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Sri Lankan Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus melanurus ENDEMIC Recorded on four dates, and seen well at Sinharaja and Victoria Park

Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra Five at Udewalawe and three at Bundala

Dark-fronted Babbler Rhopocichla atriceps A very cute and often tame species that responded well to ‘pishing’. Noted at Sinharaja, Kithulgala and Horton Plain. The bill appears pinker than illustrations show

Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense Several at Udewalawe were the only ones noted

Orange-billed Babbler Turdoides rufescens ENDEMIC It was nice to see several noisy groups in Wet Zone forests at Sinharaja

Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides affinis Noted daily throughout the tour. Rather cute when seen well, but often looking scruffy as they scrabble about on the ground

Ashy-headed Laughingthrush Garrulax cinereifrons ENDEMIC Six seen in a mixed flock at Sinharaja and others heard

Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosa Noted on seven dates and often in small feeding parties

Sri Lankan White-eye Zosterops ceylonensis ENDEMIC Relatively common and widespread in the hills, at our Nuwara Eliya hotel and Horton Plains

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis Seen on five dates, the first being at Sinharaja and the most at Victoria park where four birds seen

Sri Lankan Hill Myna Gracula ptilogenys ENDEMIC Just two above the spurfowls at Blue Magpie on 14th

Southern Hill Myna Gracula indica Seen at Kithulgala, looking across the river, at Surrey Tea Estate and Kandy

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Widespread and abundant

White-faced Starling Sturnornis albofrontalis ENDEMIC Just one bird seen briefly before it flew off over our heads. Sinharaja is the only site on the planet for this elusive starling

Rose-coloured Starling Pastor roseus Seen on two dates at Udewalawe (four) and Bundala (30+)

Sri Lankan Whistling Thrush Myophonus blighi ENDEMIC A very elusive species and we worked hard to see one of three birds calling around us at Horton Plains, before one perched in the open long enough to see it

Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina Two in the forest at Sigiriya – one bathed in a puddle on the path. The race concerned is Z. c. citrina

Spot-winged Thrush Zoothera spiloptera ENDEMIC Two singles at Sinharaja.

Sri Lankan Scaly Thrush Zoothera imbricata This species maintains its status as Sri Lanka’s most elusive endemic. Having spent a considerable time looking, we had to put up with hearing its soft, thin call

Indian Blackbird Turdus simillimus Just one seen seen by the entrance gate at Horton Plains Indian Blue Robin Luscinia brunnea

An adult male seen at Victoria Park at dusk was a true highlight Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis

Widespread throughout and recorded almost every day White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus

A number of males showed well at Udewattakele, then twos seen on both days at Sigiriya

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

18 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata Noted on nine dates

Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata At least two pairs were noted around the hotel at Nuwara Eliya, then several at Horton Plains the next day. Endemic subspecies S. c. atrata in which the female is a lot darker than in other forms.

Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica Seen on five dates, but in small numbers – the best view being at Sigiriya

Brown-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa muttui A quiet and understated yet smart bird, noted on six dates and in similarly low numbers.

Kashmir Flycatcher Ficedula subrubra The adult male in Victoria Park was seen fairly well in the dense undergrowth – the time spent searching was rewarded; one was heard as we drove back from Horton Plain

Dull-blue Flycatcher Eumyias sordida ENDEMIC One at Surrey Tea estate showed at very close range, then two at Horton Plains; subtly smart and perhaps ‘Dusky Blue’ would be nicer

Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae Regularly heard but only seen well at Sigiriya. Endemic subspecies C. t. jerdoni.

Jerdon’s Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis Only seen at Tissa on two dates; the birds in Sri Lankan and Peninsular Indian are now treated as a distinct species

Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons Recorded on seven days, the first being at Blue Magpie

Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile Just two on 14th and 21st

Legge's Flowerpecker Dicaeum vincens ENDEMIC This species was only seen at Sinharaja though quite well

Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos Widely recorded throughout Sri Lanka and seen or heard most days

Purple-rumped Sunbird Leptocoma zeylonica Seen daily throughout the tour, with a fine views at Kithulgala much admired

Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus Seen infrequently in drier areas, our first at Kalametiya – noted on eight dates.

Loten's Sunbird Cinnyris lotenia It was great to see this well, its scythe-like bill a real feature – best views at Surrey Tea Estate

House Sparrow Passer [domesticus] indicus Seen on eight dates, best at Nuwara Eliya. Those in India and elsewhere in Asia are treated by some authorities as a distinct species, Indian Sparrow Passer indicus.

Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus Several male and females seen at Udewalawe and Tissa. These birds were beginning to attain their bright breeding plumage and we liked their finely woven nests

Indian Silverbill Euodice malabarica Just two at Udewalawe

White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata Seen on seven dates, with good views at Blue Magpie

Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata Widely recorded in small numbers

Black-throated Munia Lonchura kelaarti It was good to see up to six so well at Blue magpie, showing on the mud on the rice field

Black-headed Munia Lonchura malacca Seen on five dates, this handsome munia showed well especially at Tissa – sometimes known as Tricoloured Munia

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

19 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus Always a delight to see, it was lovely to get good views on three dates, notable at Kithulgala

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava We saw birds or heard birds on three dates, with those at Tissa the best

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Noted on nine dates at widespread locations

Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus First seen at at Kalametiya, then Udewalawe Yala and Sigiriya

LIST OF MAMMALS A simple list following Duff, A, and Lawson, A. (2004) Mammals of the World: A checklist. A&C Black, London. Black-naped Hare Lepus nigricollis Sri Lankan Giant Squirrel Rafula macroura Layard’s Palm Squirrel Funambulus layardi Indian Palm Squirrel Funambulus palmarum Dusky Palm Squirrel Funambulus sublineatus Short-tailed Mongoose Herpestes brachyurus Indian Grey Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii Stripe-necked Mongoose Herpestes vitticollis Golden Jackal Canis aureus Leopard Panthera pardus Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus Tufted Grey Langur Presbytis entellus (= Common Langur) Purple-faced Leaf Monkey Presbytis vetulus vetulus Bear Monkey Presbytis vetulus senex Toque Macaque Macaca sinica Wild Boar Sus scrofa Sambar Cervus unicolor Spotted Deer Axis axis (Axis or Chital) Water Buffalo Bubakus bubalis Asian Elephant Elephas maximus Other critters Mugger Crocodylus palustris Southern House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus Green Garden (Forest) Lizard Calotes calotes Common Garden Lizard Calotes versicolor Black-lipped Lizard Calotes nigrilabris Sri Lanka Kangaroo Lizard Otocryptis wiegmanni Rhino-horned Lizard Ceratophora stoddartii Common Skink Mabuya carinata lankae Common Indian Monitor Varanus bengalensis Water Monitor Varanus salvator Spectacled Cobra Naja naja Keel-bellied Water Snake Bitia hydroides Rat Snake Ptyas mucosus Hard-shelled terrapin sp. Soft-shelled terrapin sp.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

20 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

BUTTERFLIES We made a concerted effort to see and photograph a number of species and those listed below are the 55 species we managed to confirm – there may have been others... Common Gull Cepora nerissa Common Jezebel Delias eucharis Western Striped Albatross Appias libythea Common Albatross Appias albina Psyche Leptosia nina Yellow Orange Tip Ixias pyrene Great Orange Tip Hebomoia glaucippe Small Salmon Arab Colotis amata Lemon Emigrant Catopsilia pomona Mottled Emigrant Catopsilia pyranthe Small Grass Yellow Eurema brigitta Common Grass Yellow Eurema hecabe Common Bluebottle Graphium sarpedon Tailed Jay Graphium agamemnon Blue Mormon Papilio polymnestor Red Helen Papilio helenus Common Mormon Papilio polytes Lime Butterfly Papilio demoleus Common Mime Papilio clytia Common Rose Pachliopta aristolochiae Crimson Rose Pachliopta hector Ceylon Rose Atrophaneura hector Sri Lankan Birdwing Troides darsius Ceylon Blue Glassy Tiger Ideopsis similis Common Or Striped Tiger Danaus genutia Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus Common Indian Crow Euploea core Ceylon Tree Nymph Idea iasonia Common Evening Brown Melanitis leda Dark Evening Evening Brown Melanitis phedima Ceylon Palmfly Elymnias singhala Ceylon Forester Lethe dynaste Nigger Orsotriaena medus White Four-ring Ypthima ceylonica Tawny Coster Acraea terpsicore Common Leopard Phalantha phalantha Cruiser Vindula erota Chocolate Soldier Junonia iphita Lemon Pansy Junonia lemonias Peacock Pansy Junonia almana Grey Pansy Junonia atlites Ceylon Blue Oakleaf Kallima philarchus Great Eggfly Hypolimnas bolina Danaid Eggfly Hypolimnas misippus Common Sailer Neptis hylas Commander Moduza procris

Trip Report: Sri Lanka 12th – 26th November 2013

21 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Clipper Parthenos sylvia Black Prince Rohana parisatis Common Pierrot Castalius rosimon Lime Blue Chilades lajus Ceylon Cerulean Jamides coruscans Pale Ceylon Lineblue Nacaduba sinhala Lesser Grass Blue Zizina otis Indian Awl King Choaspes benjaminii Indian Dart Potanthus pallida