sterling minnie mambo plans and instructions

Minnie MamboThe Minnie Mambo was one of the more popular 1/2A

kits in its day and is relatively easy to fly. Thefollowing construction notes referances to a kit havebeen removed but the remaining follow the originalSterling kit. A plan view and bulkheads have beenadded to the field of the drawing so that it can bescratch built. The bulkheads shown are hollowed outfor a more easy installation of modern day equipment.Also the original bottom trap door has been left offthe drawing for I don't think that it is needed.Please note: The original notes were for solventcements like Ambroid - Sig - etc. Most builders willuse a cyanoacrylate (instant glue) which must be usedsparingly. Hope you enjoy an oldy but goody from thepast!

GENERAL INFORMATION AND PRECONSTRUCTION NOTEPay careful attention to, and follow the notes step by step exactly as they

appear on the plans. Examine the drawings before starting construction. Formaximum strength, coat parts with cement (lightly), allow to dry, and then joinwith second coat. This is known as pre-glueing.

WING ASSEMBLY STEP 1Build wing on flat surface, directly over plan Cover plan with wax paper to

prevent frame from sticking. Take time and care in construction using plenty ofcement and allowing ample drying time so that wing is built straight withoutwarps. Prepare to assemble wing frame by cementing half the length of plywooddihedral gussets W4, W5 & W6 to the leading edge spar and trailing edge as shownin sketch. Allow to dry thoroughly. Pin trailing edge down on plan. Slide ribsonto spar in numerical order shown. Insert ribs into notches in both the leadingand trailing edge. Pin down leading edge against front of ribs and cement allribs securely. Cement rear corner gussets W7 in place. Cement wing tip floor WlDagainst rib W2 Cement triangular tip gussets W8 and W9 in place at locationshown on sketch and wing drawing against W2 and flush with top of rib, usecement generously and hold parts with pins if necessary, until thoroughly dry.Bottom center section covering is shown on sketch for clarity only. It is

IWING ASSEMBLY I

STEP 1 I

Leading Edge

3/16" x 3/8" Wing Spar

installed in next step Opposite wing panel is built in same manner. When bothwing panels are thoroughly dry, they are assembled to each other to formcomplete wing. Apply coat of glue to protruding plywood dihedral gussets andribs and then slide opposite panel in place. Pin down one panel to flat surfaceand raise other panel until bottom of rib is 3-9/16" high, which will makeplywood gussets flush with leading edge, trailing edge and spar. When dry, allcenter section dihedral joints (especially the butt joints) should be given anadditional heavy coat of cement to insure maximum strength and wing set aside todry thoroughly. Check wing constantly, to see that it does not develop anywarps.

STEP 2Cover bottom of center section (rib WI) with 1/16" x 3" sheet balsa. Cover

the top leading edge of wing with 1/16" x 3" x 22" sheet cut in half to make twopieces 1-1/2" wide. Carve leading Edge to accept this sheeting. Note: ribs W2are notched to receive this covering and that it extends over and is cemented totop of leading edge. Cover the top center section of wing as shown withremainder of 1/16" x 3" sheet balsa. All sheet covering can be held in placewith pins until thoroughly dry. When structure is completely dry, remove anypins and sand smooth with fine sand paper. Leading edge and sheeting is sandedto match curve shown on side view. Carve and then finish by block sandingtrailing edge. Bend metal tabs from any available thin metal (tin can may beused) and cement to trailing edge at location shown This will prevent beingdamaged by rubber bands which hold wing on model. Cover wing with silkspan(applied wet) grain running spanwise. Check wing constantly while covering toprevent any warps from developing. When silkspan is dry, apply two coats ofclear dope. If warp should occur, apply an additional coat of dope and twistwing in opposite direction, holding until dry. Wing is now ready to be paintedas described in final assembly note.

T3-9/16"

1STEP 21

IWING ASSEMBLY I

Sheet Covering

STABILIZER ASSEMBLYPin 3/16" x 3/8" leading edge, 3/16" square x 15" spar, and 3/16" x 5/8" x

16" trailing edge, directly on plan Cement two stabilizer wing tips together toform double layer tip. Make two. Cement in place between leading and trailingedge, slipping spar into notch as shown. Cap ribs are 1/16" x 1/4" balsa. Cut tolength and cement cap ribs in place flush with leading and trailing edge, whichwill cause them to bow, as shown. Make the center section cap ribs from 1-1/2"wide. (Recommend this center section to be solid for stab/fuselage interfacestrength.) Allow structure to dry, then turn over and install bottom cap ribs insame manner. Trim tips to shape and round off leading edge and tips, taperingtrailing edge, as shown on side view. Cover with silkspan tissue (applied wet),grain running spanwise. When dry, apply two coats of dope Stabilizer is now

ready to be installed as described in fuselage step 4. (Suggest do not coveruntil after installed in fuselage.)

3/16" x 3/8"Balsa Leading Edge

1/16" x 1-1/4" Balsa Cap RibSuggest solid balsa from topto bottom to provide strongerattachment to fuselage.

I STABILIZER ASSEMBLY I

x 3/16"Spar

3/16" x 5/8" BalsaTrailing Edge

x 1/4"Cap Ribs

3/16" Balsa Tip

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY STEP 1Start fuselage assembly by cementing C & D to side FS as shown. Make 1

each right and left side sketch shows right side. Make winding hook door bycarefully cutting out on rear of LEFT FUSELAGE SIDE ONLY. Side view showsposition & size. Complete winding hook door as described in detail note. Cement3/32" x 1/4" x 5-3/4" strips to both fuselage sides from front of notches for F7back, in position shown on sketch and shaded lines on side view. Cement 2 of3/32" x l/S" x 1-3/S" balsa along the 3/32" x 1/4" strips, just behind thewinding hook door cut-out, as shown on side view to provide shoulder forretaining the hook door. Drill 3/16 holes through both fuselage sides.

I FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY I

I STEP 1 I

3/32" BalsaFuselage Sides

3/32" BalsaNose Doublers

3/32" x 1/4" BalsaTail Doublers

STEP 2Assemble fuselage by cementing sides together using a 3/32" x 5/16" filler

between them at back. Add bulkheads FS, F7, F6 and F5, slipping them into theirrespective notches in fuselage sides. Allow to dry. Meanwhile, cement F5A toeither side at rear of F5, and 1/16" x 1/8" vertical braces against inside offuselage sides at F6 and F7 as shown. Install remainder of bulkheads F4, F3, F2,and Fl as shown. Hold with pins or rubber bands if necessary, allow to dry

thoroughly. Cut a 2-3/4" length of dowel. Insert dowel through fuselage sidesagainst F5, allowing ends to stick out 1/4" on each side. Cement securely inplace. AT THIS POINT THE RADIO EQUIPMENT MUST BE INSTALLED AS SHOWN ANDDESCRIBED IN RADIO NOTE IF USING THE ONE PIECE CONTROL ROD AS PER THE ORIGINAL.


I STEP 21

F3

1/6" x 1/8" BalsaVertical Braces

3/16"Dowel F6

3/32"Balsa

!(WindingHook &Door

Sq. BalsaDoor Stops

STEP 3Cement plywood gussets E along inside of cabin sides, flush with top of

sides, down into notch In F4. Cement triangular gussets H to each side offuselage against rear of F3. Cut the 1/4" square hardwood to proper length andcement in place between sides, behind and flush with top of F2. Securely cementtriangular windshield block and lower cowl block in place, as shown in drawing.Give lower cowl block additional coat of cement on inside joints. Cover rear topof fuselage from F5 to F8 using 1/16" x 2" x 13" sheet balsa. Push front down intoV in top of F5 bulkhead. (Suggest using cross grain just after the V.) Bottom of


TringularWindshieldBlock

1/16" Sheet BalsaCross Grain


1STEP 31

WindingHook Door

Fuselage is covered using 1/16" balsa cross grain. Use 1/16" plywood abovelanding gear to back-up knock-off landing gear (see Step 4 isometric and sideview). Bend tail skid, (shown full size on side view) using 1/16" wire and cementin place. Trim windshield block and plywood gussets E to V shape of F3 shown.Drill 3/16" holes through H on both sides of fuselage where holes have beenpreviously drilled in sides. Cut two 3-1/8" lengths of dowel and insert throughholes, then securely cement to inside of fuselage. Ends should extend 1/4" oneach side.

STEP 4Install battery compartment trap door. Hinge front with cloth tape and drill

hole at rear for wood screw and washer in same manner. Trim bottom cowl block toshape shown on sketch and side view. Sand entire fuselage smooth with finesandpaper, rounding corners slightly. Drill two 3/16" holes on each side ofwindshield block at location shown on side view, flush with insides of plywoodgussets E. Cut two dowels 2" long. Insert into holes and cement securely inplace along gussets E. Position landing gear on plywood section on bottom offuselage and drill 3/16" holes through plywood at location of holes on landinggear. Cut two 1/2" lengths of dowel and securely cement into holes allowing 1/8"to stick out on bottom as shown on side view. Slide stabilizer into slot at rearof fuselage and securely cement in place. Be certain that stabilizer ishorizontal to fuselage when viewed from front and squarely in place when viewedfrom top. Cement rudder parts Rand Rl together, as shown on plan side view.Sand smooth and round edges. Unit is now cemented to top of fuselage into notchin F8. Be certain rudder is vertical and cemented securely in place. When dry,complete top skin covering by cutting two triangular sections from 1/16" sheetwhich fit from F8 to end of fuselage as shown. Cement R3 to rear of fuselageagainst bottom of control-rod tube as shown. When dry, sand smooth, roundingedges. Sand R2 smooth, rounding edges, and assemble to rudder and fuselage withhinge stitches or your hinge of choice. Bend yoke from 1/32" wire, using patternprovided. Drill hole in R2 at location shown and mount yoke with #2/56 machinescrew, two washers, and locknut - washer against wood.


1STEP 41

Battery CompartmentTrap Door

1/16" BalsaTriangularSection

Yoke

----::;;;11:0--- ControlRodTube

WINDING ESCAPEMENT RUBBER BANDSketch shows how drill-winder is engaged in outside door-hook. Be sure to

wind so that escapement revolves in proper direction, then replace door.

E-=--=--=--=--=--=--=--=--=--=;;_.

Rubber Band

WINDING ESCAPEMENTRUBBER BAND

Hand Drill Winder

RUDDER YOKE DETAILBend rudder yoke to shape shown actual size above using 1/32" music wire.

Install as described in step 4.

1/3211 Wire

CONTROL ROD DETAILBend to pattern from 1/16" wire. Bend "u" shape so that it fits over pin in

escapement freely. Remove burrs from end of 1/8" OD tubing and slip over rod thenmake last bend. Control rod is now ready to be installed as described in radiocontrol installation note. See main field of drawing.

WINDING HOOK DOOREscapement shown requires a rear hook to wind rubber band. Use section cut

from left fuselage side as described in fuselage Step 1. Cut 3/8" x 1" strip of1/16" or 3/32" scrap balsa and cement to center of door, grain running opposite.Using 1/32" wire, bend one side of hook as shown. Push straight end through door,then bend other end to shape. Cement to door securely. Winder may be made bybending one end of a piece of wire to a hook. Insert other end in a hand drillas shown. Tighten securely.

1/3211 Wire

LANDING GEAR DETAILSlip washer on long #4/40 x 7/8" screws followed by wheel, another washer,

then nut (open side facing, wheel). Leaving just enough clearance so wheel spinsfreely. Insert into hole in landing gear and secure with nut on opposite side(flat side toward gear). Tighten nuts towards each other securely. Landing gearis installed on dowels in bottom of fuselage. Hold in place with rubber bands.

#4-40 Nut

#4 Washer

#4-40 x 7/8"Screw

2" Dia Wheel

Nut

RADIO CONTROL INSTALLATIONSketches show the installation of Citizen-Ship SE escapement. Mount

escapement on F, see drawing for detail. Cement across front of F5, shown onside view. Make rudder Control rod (mount tube before second bend) using fullsize drawings. Insert rod through fuselage and attach to escapement. Engage rearin rudder yoke. Yoke can be raised or lowered to adjust distance of ruddertravel. CONTROL ROD MUST BE GROUNDED by soldering fine length of wire fromcontrol rod to body of escapement. When installing receiver and batteries, wrapthem in foam rubber for a snug fit. Then insert into their respectivecompartments. This will prevent damage. Make up an extra set or two of batteriesfor field replacement. Install antennae. Make loop of 1/8" flat rubber and attachto escapement and winding door hook, as shown. Be certain to wind rubber theright way, so that escapement revolves in proper direction. Check out systemwith transmitter before every flight WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING.

FINAL ASSEMBLY AND PAINT NOTEWhen wing and fuselage have been competed as described in their respective

steps, model is then ready to be painted using hot fuel proof paint. Any radioequipment in model should be covered to protect it from paint. Original MinnieMambo painted red with yellow tri~ Windows shown on side view are paintedsilver. Since Minnie is original design, it may be painted to suit theindividual taste of the model builder. Install engine in fuselage using #2/56screws and nuts. Access for nuts is made through battery compartment. Engineshown is Cox Golden Bee .049. Any other similar engine may be used. Cement stripof fine sand paper to top of E and cabin side, and against bottom of wing incorresponding position. This will prevent wing from shifting Wing is secured bywrapping rubber bands across wing from 3/16 dowels on either side of fuselage atrear, to both dowel pins protruding from front of cabin. Place finished-landinggear (see note) on fuselage. Moisten colorful Minnie Mambo decal and slide inposition.

FLYING INSTRUCTIONSBe certain model balances (nose slightly down) 2" to 2-1/4" behind front of

wing, add weight if necessary. Check that all surfaces are free of warps and arein proper alignment with each other. Any deviation may result in erratic flying.Flight testing is done in calm weather. Experienced modelers may test glidemodel, however, it is not recommended for beginners. All power testing is doneonly after radio equipment has been checked out for a distance of at least 500feet with the engine running. Throttle engine up and launch into any prevailingwind at normal flying speed with nose slightly down. Model should fly smoothly,either level or climbing slightly. If model stalls, add 1/16 balsa under rear ofwing. If model dives, add it to front of wing. In both cases, check the balancebefore adding shi~ Stalls may also be corrected by tilting front of enginedown,(down thrust). Once model is in air, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CONTROL WITH RADIOUNTIL AN ALTITUDE OF AT LEAST 100 FT HAS BEEN ACHIEVED. Inexperienced radioflyers may cause model to crash if it hasn't sufficient altitude. In most cases,model will recover its flight path if left alone. Give short beeps to controlmodel while engine is running, longer beeps will be necessary when model isgliding after motor has stopped. Experience will enable you to do many maneuverswith your Minnie Mambo. GOOD LUCK AND GOOD FLYING!!

2" Dia Wheel

-~ H-40 Nut

#4 Washer

#4 Washer

H-40 x 7/S"Screw

FINAL ASSEMBLY AND PAINT NOTEWhen wing and fuselage have been competed as described in their respective

steps, model is then ready to be painted using hot fuel proof paint. Any radioequipment in model should be covered to protect it from paint. Original MinnieMambo painted red with yellow tri~ Windows shown on side view are paintedsilvera Since Minnie is original design, it may be painted to suit theindividual taste of the model builder. Install engine in fuselage using #2/56screws and nuts. Access for nuts is made through battery compartment. Engineshown is Cox Golden Bee .049. Any other similar engine may be used. Cement stripof fine sand paper to top of E and cabin side, and against bottom of wing incorresponding position. This will prevent wing from shifting Wing is secured bywrapping rubber bands across wing from 3/16 dowels on either side of fuselage atrear, to both dowel pins protruding from front of cabin. Place finished-landinggear (see note) on fuselage. Moisten colorful Minnie Mambo decal and slide inpositiona

#4-40 Nut

FLYING INSTRUCTIONSBe certain model balances (nose slightly down) 2" to 2-1/4" behind front of

wing, add weight if necessary. Check that all surfaces are free of warps and arein proper alignment with each othera Any deviation may result in erratic flyingaFlight testing is done in calm weather. Experienced modelers may test glidemodel, however, it is not recommended for beginners. All power testing is doneonly after radio equipment has been checked out for a distance of at least 500feet with the engine running. Throttle engine up and launch into any prevailingwind at normal flying speed with nose slightly down. Model should fly smoothly,either level or climbing slightly. If model stalls, add 1/16 balsa under rear ofwing. If model dives, add it to front of wing. In both cases, check the balancebefore adding shi~ Stalls may also be corrected by tilting front of enginedown,(down thrust). Once model is in air, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CONTROL WITH RADIOUNTIL AN ALTITUDE OF AT LEAST 100 FT HAS BEEN ACHIEVED. Inexperienced radioflyers may cause model to crash if it hasn't sufficient altitudea In most cases,model will recover its flight path if left alone. Give short beeps to controlmodel while engine is running, longer beeps will be necessary when model isgliding after motor has stopped. Experience will enable you to do many maneuverswith your Minnie Mambo. GOOD LUCK AND GOOD FLYINGl !

RADIO CONTROL INSTALLATIONSketches show the installation of Citizen-Ship SE escapementa Mount

escapement on F, see drawing for detaila Cement across front of FS, shown onside view. Make rudder Control rod (mount tube before second bend) using fullsize drawings. Insert rod through fuselage and attach to escapement. Engage rearin rudder yoke. Yoke can be raised or lowered to adjust distance of ruddertravel. CONTROL ROD MUST BE GROUNDED by soldering fine length of wire fromcontrol rod to body of escapement. When installing receiver and batteries, wrapthem in foam rubber for a snug fit. Then insert into their respectivecompartments. This will prevent damage. Make up an extra set or two of batteriesfor field replacement. Install antennae. Make loop of l/S" flat rubber and attachto escapement and winding door hook, as shown. Be certain to wind rubber theright way, so that escapement revolves in proper direction. Check out systemwith transmitter before every flight WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING.

Yoke

k;;~__ ControlRodTube

1/16" BalsaTriangularSection


1STEP 41

Battery CompartmentTrap Door

ClothTape

Fuselage is covered using 1/16" balsa cross grain. Use 1/16" plywood abovelanding gear to back-up knock-off landing gear (see Step 4 isometric and sideview) a Bend tail skid, (shown full size on side view) using 1/16 n wire and cementin place. Trim windshield block and plywood gussets E to V shape of F3 shown.Drill 3/16" holes through H on both sides of fuselage where holes have beenpreviously drilled in sides. Cut two 3-1/S" lengths of dowel and insert throughholes, then securely cement to inside of fuselagea Ends should extend 1/4" oneach side.

STEP 4Install battery compartment trap door. Hinge front with cloth tape and drill

hole at rear for wood screw and washer in same mannera Trim bottom cowl block toshape shown on sketch and side viewa Sand entire fuselage smooth with finesandpaper, rounding corners slightly. Drill two 3/16" holes on each side ofwindshield block at location shown on side view, flush with insides of plywoodgussets E. Cut two dowels 2" long. Insert into holes and cement securely inplace along gussets E. Position landing gear on plywood section on bottom offuselage and drill 3/16" holes through plywood at location of holes on landinggear. Cut two 1/2" lengths of dowel and securely cement into holes allowing l/S"to stick out on bottom as shown on side view. Slide stabilizer into slot at rearof fuselage and securely cement in place. Be certain that stabilizer ishorizontal to fuselage when viewed from front and squarely in place when viewedfrom top. Cement rudder parts Rand Rl together, as shown on plan side view.Sand smooth and round edges. Unit is now cemented to top of fuselage into notchin FS. Be certain rudder is vertical and cemented securely in place. When dry,complete top skin covering by cutting two triangular sections from 1/16" sheetwhich fit from FS to end of fuselage as shown. Cement R3 to rear of fuselageagainst bottom of control-rod tube as shown. When dry, sand smooth, roundingedges. Sand R2 smooth, rounding edges, and assemble to rudder and fuselage withhinge stitches or your hinge of choice. Bend yoke from 1/32" wire, using patternprovided. Drill hole in R2 at location shown and mount yoke with #2/56 machinescrew, two washers, and locknut - washer against wooda

X 1/4"Cap Ribs

3/16" x 5/S" BalsaTrailing Edge

x 3/16"Spar

3/32" x 1/4" BalsaTail Doublers

3/16" Balsa Tip

FS

I STABILIZER ASSEMBLY I

3/32" BalsaFuselage Sides

1/16" x 1-1/4" Balsa Cap RibSuggest solid balsa from topto bottom to provide strongerattachment to fuselage.

3/32" BalsaNose Doublers

3/16" x 3/S"Balsa Leading Edge

ready to be installed as described in fuselage step 4. (Suggest do not coveruntil after installed in fuselage.)

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY STEP 1Start fuselage assembly by cementing C & D to side FS as shown. Make 1

each right and left side sketch shows right side. Make winding hook door bycarefully cutting out on rear of LEFT FUSELAGE SIDE ONLY. Side view showsposition & size. Complete winding hook door as described in detail note. Cement3/32" x 1/4" x 5-3/4" strips to both fuselage sides from front of notches for F7back, in position shown on sketch and shaded lines on side view. Cement 2 of3/32" x l/S" x 1-3/S" balsa along the 3/32" x 1/4" strips, just behind thewinding hook door cut-out, as shown on side view to provide shoulder forretaining the hook door. Drill 3/16 holes through both fuselage sides.


1 STEP 1 1

STEP 2Assemble fuselage by cementing sides together using a 3/32" x 5/16" filler

between them at back. Add bulkheads FS, F7, F6 and F5, slipping them into theirrespective notches in fuselage sides. Allow to dry. Meanwhile, cement F5A toeither side at rear of FS, and 1/16" x 1/8" vertical braces against inside offuselage sides at F6 and F7 as shown. Install remainder of bulkheads F4, F3, F2,and Fl as shown. Hold with pins or rubber bands if necessary, allow to dry

IWING ASSEMBLY I

STEP 1 1

3/16" x 3/S" Wing Spar

Leading Edge

WING ASSEMBLY STEP 1Build wing on flat surface, directly over plan Cover plan with wax paper to

prevent frame from sticking. Take time and care in construction using plenty ofcement and allowing ample drying time so that wing is built straight withoutwarps. Prepare to assemble wing frame by cementing half the length of plywooddihedral gussets W4, W5 & W6 to the leading edge spar and trailing edge as shownin sketch. Allow to dry thoroughly. Pin trailing edge down on plan. Slide ribsonto spar in numerical order shown. Insert ribs into notches in both the leadingand trailing edge. Pin down leading edge against front of ribs and cement allribs securely. Cement rear corner gussets W7 in place. Cement wing tip floor WlOagainst rib W2 Cement triangular tip gussets WS and W9 in place at locationshown on sketch and wing drawing against W2 and flush with top of rib, usecement generously and hold parts with pins if necessary, until thoroughly dry.Bottom center section covering is shown on sketch for clarity only. It is

Minnie MamboThe Minnie Mambo was one of the more popular 1/2A

kits in its day and is relatively easy to fly. Thefollowing construction notes referances to a kit havebeen removed but the remaining follow the originalSterling kit. A plan view and bulkheads have beenadded to the field of the drawing so that it can bescratch built. The bulkheads shown are hollowed outfor a more easy installation of modern day equipment.Also the original bottom trap door has been left offthe drawing for I don't think that it is needed.Please note: The original notes were for solventcements like Ambroid Sig etc. Most builders willuse a cyanoacrylate (instant glue) which must be usedsparingly. Hope you enjoy an oldy but goody from thepast!

GENERAL INFORMATION AND PRECONSTRUCTION NOTEPay careful attention to, and follow the notes step by step exactly as they

appear on the plans. Examine the drawings before starting construction. Formaximum strength, coat parts with cement (lightly), allow to dry, and then joinwith second coat. This is known as pre-glueing.

Be sure todoor.

Winding Hook Door

WINDING ESCAPEMENTRUBBER BAND

1/32" Wire

Hand Drill Winder

Rubber Band

r::~~~~~---_.,L... ---_"_.

WINDING ESCAPEMENT RUBBER BANDSketch shows how drill-winder is engaged in outside door-hook.

wind so that escapement revolves in proper direction, then replace

"

WINDING HOOK DOOREscapement shown requires a rear hook to wind rubber band. Use section cut

from left fuselage side as described in fuselage Step 1. Cut 3/S" x I" strip of1/16" or 3/32" scrap balsa and cement to center of door, grain running opposite.Using 1/32" wire, bend one side of hook as shown. Push straight end through door,then bend other end to shape. Cement to door securely. Winder may be made bybending one end of a piece of wire to a hook. Insert other end in a hand drillas shown. Tighten securely.

1/32" Wire

CONTROL ROD DETAILBend to pattern from 1/16" wirea Bend "U" shape so that it fits over pin in

escapement freely. Remove burrs from end of l/S" OD tubing and slip over rod thenmake last bend. Control rod is now ready to be installed as described in radiocontrol installation note. See main field of drawing.

RUDDER YOKE DETAILBend rudder yoke to shape shown actual size above using 1/32" music wire.

Install as described in step 4.

LANDING GEAR DETAILSlip washer on long #4/40 x 7/S" screws followed by wheel, another washer,

then nut (open side facing, wheel). Leaving just enough clearance so wheel spinsfreely. Insert into hole in landing gear and secure with nut on opposite side(flat side toward gear). Tighten nuts towards each other securely. Landing gearis installed on dowels in bottom of fuselage. Hold in place with rubber bands.

WindingHook Door

FS

~WindingHook &Door

Sq. BalsaDoor Stops

3/32"Balsa

1STEP 31

F6

F7



3/16"Dowel

1/6" x l/S" BalsaVertical Braces

H: 3/32"Balsa Doubler

F3


TringularWindshieldBlock

1/4" Sq.Hardwood


1 STEP 21

LowerCowlBlock

thoroughly. Cut a 2-3/4" length of dowel. Insert dowel through fuselage sidesagainst F5, allowing ends to stick out 1/4" on each side. Cement securely inplace. AT THIS POINT THE RADIO EQUIPMENT MUST BE INSTALLED AS SHOWN ANDDESCRIBED IN RADIO NOTE IF USING THE ONE PIECE CONTROL ROD AS PER THE ORIGINAL.

STEP 3Cement plywood gussets E along inside of cabin sides, flush with top of

sides, down into notch In F4. Cement triangular gussets H to each side offuselage against rear of F3. Cut the 1/4" square hardwood to proper length andcement in place between sides, behind and flush with top of F2. Securely cementtriangular windshield block and lower cowl block in place, as shown in drawing.Give lower cowl block additional coat of cement on inside joints. Cover rear topof fuselage from F5 to FS using 1/16" x 2" x 13" sheet balsa. Push front down intov in top of F5 bulkhead. (Suggest using cross grain just after the ~) Bottom ofMetal Tabs

Sheet Covering

IWING ASSEMBLYI

1STEP 21

STABILIZER ASSEMBLYPin 3/16" x 3/S" leading edge, 3/16" square x 15" spar, and 3/16" x 5/S" x

16" trailing edge, directly on plan Cement two stabilizer wing tips together toform double layer tip. Make two. Cement in place between leading and trailingedge, slipping spar into notch as shown. Cap ribs are 1/16" x 1/4" balsa. Cut tolength and cement cap ribs in place flush with leading and trailing edge, whichwill cause them to bow, as shown. Make the center section cap ribs from 1-1/2"wide. (Recommend this center section to be solid for stab/fuselage interfacestrength.) Allow structure to dry, then turn over and install bottom cap ribs insame manner. Trim tips to shape and round off leading edge and tips, taperingtrailing edge, as shown on side view. Cover with silkspan tissue (applied wet),grain running spanwise. When dry, apply two coats of dope Stabilizer is now

installed in next step Opposite wing panel is built in same manner. When bothwing panels are thoroughly dry, they are assembled to each other to formcomplete wing. Apply coat of glue to protruding plywood dihedral gussets andribs and then slide opposite panel in place. Pin down one panel to flat surfaceand raise other panel until bottom of rib is 3-9/16" high, which will makeplywood gussets flush with leading edge, trailing edge and spar. When dry, allcenter section dihedral joints (especially the butt joints) should be given anadditional heavy coat of cement to insure maximum strength and wing set aside todry thoroughly. Check wing constantly, to see that it does not develop anywarps.

STEP 2Cover bottom of center section (rib Wl) with 1/16" x 3" sheet balsa. Cover

the top leading edge of wing with 1/16" x 3" x 22" sheet cut in half to make twopieces 1-1/2" wide. Carve leading Edge to accept this sheeting. Note: ribs W2are notched to receive this covering and that it extends over and is cemented totop of leading edge. Cover the top center section of wing as shown withremainder of 1/16" x 3" sheet balsa. All sheet covering can be held in placewith pins until thoroughly dry. When structure is completely dry, remove anypins and sand smooth with fine sand paper. Leading edge and sheeting is sandedto match curve shown on side view. Carve and then finish by block sandingtrailing edge. Bend metal tabs from any available thin metal (tin can may beused) and cement to trailing edge at location shown This will prevent beingdamaged by rubber bands which hold wing on model. Cover wing with silkspan(applied wet) grain running spanwise. Check wing constantly while covering toprevent any warps from developing. When silks pan is dry, apply two coats ofclear dope. If warp should occur, apply an additional coat of dope and twistwing in opposite direction, holding until dry. Wing is now ready to be paintedas described in final assembly note.

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FOR BEGINN:

LENGI

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Cad by Gene

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FB, 3/32 11 Balsa

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F5,3/32 11 Light Ply F4,3/32 11 Light Ply F3, 3/32 11 Ply

sterling minnie mambo plans and instructions

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