stuff: the m(group) guide

lefT over the bed, the large map of commercial airline routes after world war II was originally in the chairman of the federal aviation agency’s washington office. It was a house-warming gift from his grandson, who knew Hermes loved maps. all the routes and carriers are delineated with little plastic tapes and named buttons. The room is large land bright, so it could handle a rich brown paint by master colorist Donald Kaufman and the big bright oushak carpet. It serves as Hermes’ office in the country, with a fully-extended cork-top dining table by american designer Paul frankl that now functions as a per-fect desk.

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rIgHT This room, with its built-in bookcases, turned out to be a great success. The new knotty-pine panel-ing, which we love, was oxidized and waxed to look as if it was original to the house. It was all designed and installed in weeks, which amounts to a moment in our business.

1 Call out text for elements on the page to be written by Carey




















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Turkish textiles used to be rare, but now with our design globalization, things we never saw before are ubiquitous. Take suzanis for example. These large embroidered pieces have been used as bed covers, room dividers, baby wraps, or horse blankets. Practically at birth, Uzbek women start working on their wedding dowry. By the time the big day rolls around, the average middle-class girl has ten suzanis in her Uzbek hope chest. our first trip to Istanbul turned into a frenzy of textile shopping. once we had seen the handsome and typical black and red embroidery, we wanted the softer and rarer colors. after we discovered suzanis, we segued to tulus—smaller, usually 3- by 5-foot woven pieces with long angora hair.

a n t i q u e t e x t i L e s

what are they? Suzanis and Ikatswhere do they come from? Turkey

In around 1872, a Jewish spinner wearing a bright ikat coat, twists silk to make thread for fine weavings in Tashkent, a major trading city on the Silk Road.

A nineteenth century photograph of a robe vendor shows his incredible selection of ikat menswear. The equally vivid linings are often of quilted cotton in floral patterns or stripes.

A detail of one of a suzani gives an idea of the exquisitely executed silk needlework on a linen field. Sultan Sulemain the Magnificent (1494-1566) expanded the

powers of the Ottomans far beyond Constantinople, threatening Europe’s capitals and sowing the seeds for centuries of conflict between Islam and the West.

This imperial robe worn by Sultan Osman II, around 1620, bears out the maxim, Clothes Make the Man. Luxurious Italian velvets were exported to the Turkish market and Russian furs were incorporated into the royal caftans, all conveying the great power of the Ottoman sultanate.

I love this mid-twentieth century Angora tula weaving from central Anatolia for its Marin County hippie vibe. The wool—long, shiny, and very importantly, since tulas were used as blankets—is cozy and warm.

avoid the hot chemical-looking colors and seek out earthier tones, and whatever you do, keep them away from the cat. we bought four of them, and a few weeks later, in Paris, we saw one hanging in pride of place over a louis XVI lemonwood console at the super-chic gallerie camoin on the Quai Voltaire. Validation is always good, even after years of therapy.

OppOSITE The headboard in the second bedroom is an old, banged up section of a tin ceiling that was found in Hudson, New York, covered in generations of paint—just what the room needed. A suzani is used as a bedcover.

next came the silk ikats. for us, the suzanis and the tulus worked well for covering a bed or decorating a sofa. But ikats, woven on narrow looms, are smaller and too fragile to just throw around and are thus more of a collectible (though we usually focus on the functional). once, a nice dealer gave us a few ikat coats as gifts. I can only imagine how much we overpaid to warrant this mercy.for the ultimate in this genre, see the catalog from the “Style and Status: Imperial costumes from ottoman Turkey” exhibit from the arthur M. Sackler gallery (the Smithsonian) in washington, D.c..

for more details about Medical art please visit: www.mgrouponline.com/stuff-mdeical/

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r e v o L u t i o n a r y a r t

what is it? Popular propagandawhere does it come from? china

china has four thousand years of dynastic history, from the Xia Dynasty in 2000 B.c. to today’s People’s republic of china, with its communist party chairman Mao Zedong as the last great emperor and despot. for his new china, Mao dictated that art be for the masses: art should educate, illuminate, elevate, and, of course, further the cause of a socialist china. The varied and cheap media were posters, wood blocks, and pamphlets, used to spread the government’s messages across the world’s most populous nation.

The Cultural Revolution of the 1960s saw a surge in poster and printmaking. In 1967, university students create big character posters advocating an “Upsurge Revolutionary Criticism.”

Mao Tse Tung waves cheerfully on the 19TK book published by the Asia Society and Yale University press.

What better vehicle could there be but postage stamps to spread revolutionary fervor?

In Quartzite, Arizona, I found an unlikely source for Chinese wares at a mineral dealer who travels annually to China.

Chinese Socialist realism was meant to be hong guang liang or red bright shining—as conveyed by this mass-produced porcelain figurine that is literally uplifting.

I bought this paper cut-out for pennies in Canton in 1980, the year the United States and the people’s Republic of China normalized relations.

The revolutionary style was Socialist realism, and the art was created to be hong guang liang—red, bright, shining.for this art, Hermes and I try to put the politics aside, which is easier said than done, but we love the stuff for its heroic quality. our larger-than-life painted plaster bust of a soldier certainly qualifies—this kid exudes Hero.

OppOSITE A large bright green Awaji-ware vase sits on an eighteenth-century Chinese stand by the front door. The Japanese pottery is typically green or bright yellow, and a few of the pieces we have—one of which I happily found under my grandmother’s kitchen sink—are wrapped with raffia. We found the rough cotton-and-wool panel of a young Mao at a rock show in the Arizona dessert. Go figure.

To say Mao’s image was ubiquitous is an understatement: over 2.2 billion items were made in the 1960s with his portrait. The chairman’s image was crocheted on fabric panels that must have provided many a chinese house with a room divider. Hermes continues this tradition and mounted his to disguise a door.

The small ceramics made during this time are collectable and decorative. lithe dancers and smiling youths predominate, but sometimes the subjects are rather grim and too vivid, so we stick with the cheerful ones. Thirty years after the cultural revolution, the art has become mainstreamed via major museum and gallery shows in the west. china’s new artists are vocally at the forefront of a movement towards greater freedoms. communist or not, the new chinese elite are spending big bucks, with china’s art market now second only to the United States in the amount of dollars spent.

for more details about chinese protest art please visit: www.mgrouponline.com/stuff-chinesepropaganda/

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lefT casts of gods and george washington are features of the fireplace wall in the bedroom. The cabinets are from the Villa encantada in Bel air, california, which was decorated by T. H. robsjohn-gibbings between 1934 and 1938. The fireplace is original to the house. we had the paint stripped and waxed to make it look like the plaster panel. President washington was found in the trash outside a public school on Manhattan’s 57th Street in august the year it was being renovated. He was very heavy and it was very hot, but I managed to grapple him five blocks and drop him off with a friend’s doorman.

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stuff: the m(group) guide

Documents

hermes office

large land bright

housewarming gift

big bright oushak carpet

master colorist donald

dining table

rich brown paint

american designer paul