Surfing ConditionsSurfing Conditions

• SeasonsSeasons• Three main factors influencing surfing Three main factors influencing surfing

conditions: conditions: – swell directionswell direction– currents and tidescurrents and tides– windswinds

• WavesWaves• BottomsBottoms• Beach typesBeach types• PollutionPollution• Surf reports (phone and online)Surf reports (phone and online)

Surfing Conditions: SeasonsSurfing Conditions: Seasons

• Conditions in CaliforniaConditions in California• Winter brings larger waves (often Winter brings larger waves (often

from the north and west)from the north and west)• Winter brings colder water (low 50’s)Winter brings colder water (low 50’s)• Summer brings smaller, less frequent Summer brings smaller, less frequent

waves (often from the south)waves (often from the south)• Summer brings warmer water (up to Summer brings warmer water (up to

7070˚ F)˚ F)

Surfing Conditions: Swell Surfing Conditions: Swell DirectionDirection

North Swell

West Swell

South Swell

Surfing Conditions: Swell Surfing Conditions: Swell DirectionDirection

• North Swell: generated by storms in the North North Swell: generated by storms in the North Pacific during the winter (December through Pacific during the winter (December through February). Average size 3-6 feet, but can reach February). Average size 3-6 feet, but can reach 10-15 feet (powerful).10-15 feet (powerful).

• West Swell: originates from storms in the Western West Swell: originates from storms in the Western Pacific and is common during fall and spring. Pacific and is common during fall and spring. Average size 3-6 feet. Often mixed with other Average size 3-6 feet. Often mixed with other swells (southwest). swells (southwest).

• South Swell: generated by storms in the South South Swell: generated by storms in the South Pacific during the summer (May through Pacific during the summer (May through September). Average size 3-6 feet but may reach September). Average size 3-6 feet but may reach 8-15 feet. The Wedge in Newport Beach reaches 8-15 feet. The Wedge in Newport Beach reaches up to 20 feet on largest south swells. up to 20 feet on largest south swells.

Surfing Conditions: Currents Surfing Conditions: Currents and Tidesand Tides

• The moon’s gravitational pull on the earth creates The moon’s gravitational pull on the earth creates a bulge in the ocean, causing a high tide on the a bulge in the ocean, causing a high tide on the near side of the earth and on the opposite side of near side of the earth and on the opposite side of the earth.the earth.

• The sun’s gravitational pull creates a lesser bulge The sun’s gravitational pull creates a lesser bulge in the ocean, which can contribute to or detract in the ocean, which can contribute to or detract from the moon’s pull. from the moon’s pull.

• High (flow) and low (ebb) tides in California High (flow) and low (ebb) tides in California fluctuate about 4-5 feet.fluctuate about 4-5 feet.

• In California, we have two high and two low tides In California, we have two high and two low tides (semidiurnal) in a 24-hour period.(semidiurnal) in a 24-hour period.

• In general, higher tides create easier-breaking In general, higher tides create easier-breaking waves while lower tides create faster, tubing waves while lower tides create faster, tubing waves (preferred).waves (preferred).

Surfing Conditions: WindSurfing Conditions: Wind

• In general, wind is bad for surfing, creating In general, wind is bad for surfing, creating choppy, blown-out conditions.choppy, blown-out conditions.

• In California, early morning is the best In California, early morning is the best time to surf because the ocean’s surface is time to surf because the ocean’s surface is glassy and smooth. glassy and smooth.

• In California, wind usually picks up by late In California, wind usually picks up by late morning, 11:00 a.m. or so.morning, 11:00 a.m. or so.

• Occasionally, the wind dies late in the day, Occasionally, the wind dies late in the day, creating “evening glass off.” creating “evening glass off.”

Surfing Conditions: Wind Surfing Conditions: Wind DirectionDirection

Sidewind moves north or south

Onshore wind moves east Offshore

wind moves west

Surfing Conditions: WindSurfing Conditions: Wind

• One beneficial wind One beneficial wind exists: Santa Ana exists: Santa Ana wind (offshore). wind (offshore).

• Santa Ana wind is a Santa Ana wind is a warm, desert wind warm, desert wind unique to southern unique to southern California.California.

• Santa Ana winds Santa Ana winds produce hollow, produce hollow, fast waves and fast waves and occur most often in occur most often in the summer. the summer.

Surfing Conditions: WavesSurfing Conditions: Waves

• Anatomy of a Anatomy of a wave: crest wave: crest (top), trough (top), trough (bottom), face (bottom), face (front), peak (front), peak (highest (highest point), point), shoulder (side)shoulder (side)

Surfing Conditions: Measuring Surfing Conditions: Measuring WavesWaves

• Waves are officially Waves are officially measured in feet from measured in feet from crest to trough.crest to trough.

• However, surfers like However, surfers like to underestimate to underestimate wave height or wave height or measure by back of measure by back of the wave; i.e., they the wave; i.e., they might call a 6-foot might call a 6-foot wave a 4-foot wave.wave a 4-foot wave.

• Surfers also often Surfers also often measure according to measure according to body-height: shoulder-body-height: shoulder-high, head-high, high, head-high, double overhead. double overhead.

Surfing Conditions: BottomsSurfing Conditions: Bottoms

• Three main types exist: sand, rock, and Three main types exist: sand, rock, and coral.coral.

• Sand is best for beginners and most Sand is best for beginners and most common in California.common in California.

• Rock exists at several great breaks in Rock exists at several great breaks in southern California: Rincon, Malibu, southern California: Rincon, Malibu, Trestles, San Onofre, etc. Booties help Trestles, San Onofre, etc. Booties help surfers negotiate through rocks.surfers negotiate through rocks.

• Coral exists in Hawaii and other places, Coral exists in Hawaii and other places, creating sharp and dangerous bottom. creating sharp and dangerous bottom.

Surfing Conditions: Beach Surfing Conditions: Beach TypesTypes

• Three main beach types exist. Three main beach types exist. • Beach break: waves break on a sandy Beach break: waves break on a sandy

beach like Mondos (best for beginners)beach like Mondos (best for beginners)• Point break: waves break onto a rocky Point break: waves break onto a rocky

point like Rincon (creates a long ride with point like Rincon (creates a long ride with the right swell)the right swell)

• Reef break: waves break on a rock bed or Reef break: waves break on a rock bed or coral reef as on many beaches in Hawaii coral reef as on many beaches in Hawaii (often creating the best and most (often creating the best and most dangerous conditions)dangerous conditions)

Surfing Conditions: PollutionSurfing Conditions: Pollution• Ocean water quality is determined by Ocean water quality is determined by

many factors and fluctuates but is good many factors and fluctuates but is good most of the time in California.most of the time in California.

• Some surfers avoid the ocean for a few Some surfers avoid the ocean for a few days following rain because of the city days following rain because of the city filth washed into the ocean and the filth washed into the ocean and the ensuing ensuing bacterial pollutionbacterial pollution. .

• Heal the BayHeal the Bay provides a weekly report provides a weekly report card by beach and educates the public card by beach and educates the public about environmental issues involving about environmental issues involving beaches. beaches.

• Surfrider FoundationSurfrider Foundation provides water- provides water-quality reports by beach. quality reports by beach.

Surfing Conditions: ReportsSurfing Conditions: Reports

• Phone Reports: many city lifeguards Phone Reports: many city lifeguards provide a daily surf report by phoneprovide a daily surf report by phone– Newport Beach (949) 673-3371Newport Beach (949) 673-3371– Huntington Beach (714) 536-9303Huntington Beach (714) 536-9303– San Clemente (949) 492-1011San Clemente (949) 492-1011

• Online Reports: several websites provide Online Reports: several websites provide daily surf reports on the Internetdaily surf reports on the Internet– SurflineSurfline – WavewatchWavewatch – WetsandWetsand

Surfing Conditions: Surfing Conditions: ResourcesResources

• The Encyclopedia of SurfingThe Encyclopedia of Surfing by Matt by Matt WarshawWarshaw

• Surfing CaliforniaSurfing California by Bank Wright by Bank Wright

• The WetSand WaveCastThe WetSand WaveCast® Guide to ® Guide to Surf ForecastingSurf Forecasting by Nathan Todd by Nathan Todd CoolCool

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