sustainable cotton and textile supply chain uzbekistan
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Sustainable Cotton and Textile Supply Chain Uzbekistan – Challenges and OpportunitiesGIZ Project “Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan”
WTO Roundtable, 03.11.2021
Gina Burgard, Project Manager
GIZ Global Programme –‘Sustainability and Value Added in Agricultural Supply Chains’
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan03.11.2021Page 2
Commissioner:
Duration:
04/2019 - 03/2024
Objective:
Increasing sustainability in the cotton supply chain in
Uzbekistan by:
▪ Promoting sustainable farming methods
▪ Strengthening sustainable capacities for local value addition
▪ Fostering global knowledge exchange
German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation
and Development (BMZ)
03.11.2021 Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan
Important Partners:
Ministry of Agriculture of the Republic of Uzbekistan
Textile Association "UzTextileprom"
Page 3
GIZ Cotton Project in Uzbekistan –‘Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy’
Perspectives: What defines the supply chain from Uzbekistan?
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan03.11.2021Page 4
▪ Historical context
▪ Geographical environment
▪ Political context
▪ Social, economic and demographic context
Challenges: Sustainability in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan
03.11.2021 Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in UzbekistanPage 5
Child and Forced Labour
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan03.11.2021Page 6
The cotton Pledge is more than 10 years old... with clear
consequences and impact on Uzbekistan
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2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
2010: U.S. adds Uzbek cotton to list of child-labor products
2011: 60 fashion brands join Uzbek cotton pledge
2014: U.S. Says Uzbek child labor for cotton persists
2015: ILO says 14% ofUzbek cotton pickers areforced
2016: Reform-minded Shavkat Mirziyoyev names President
2018: 250 companies in Uzbek cotton pledge
March 2019: U.S removes Uzbek cotton from list of child-labor productsApril 2019: ILO says 6.8% of Uzbek cotton pickers forced in 2018 harvest
2012: Uzbek government reiterates ban on child labor for cotton
Source: U.S. Department of Labor, ILO, Responsible Sourcing Network (Data compiled Nov. 21, 2019)
2007: Tesco is one of the first retailers to reject Uzbek cotton
Uzbek cotton exports (2007-2018) in million of 480-pound bales
Child and Forced Labour
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan03.11.2021Page 7
Source: ILO 2020
▪ For many years state-organised child
and forced labour
▪ ILO: Systematic child labour is no
longer used
▪ Systematic forced labour did not
occur during the 2020 cotton harvest
▪ 60 percent of pickers said that the
2020 cotton harvest was their only
source of cash income
▪ 64.6 percent of pickers were women
and 35.4 percent were men
2020 third-party monitoring of child labour and forced labour during the cotton harvest in Uzbekistan
Water Scarcity
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan03.11.2021Page 8
Production
Processing
Export
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan03.11.2021Page 9
Project Areas –Increasing the economic, social and ecological sustainability
Promotion of and Trainings on sustainable cotton production
▪ Support of the ILO Third-Party Monitoring of the cotton harvest
▪ Technical trainings, e.g. efficient irrigation technologies, water management, use of beneficial insects and artificial intelligence to reduce pesticide use
▪ Trainings on organic cotton production
▪ Trainings on principles Better Cotton Standard System and close cooperation with the Better Cotton Initiative to facilitate a new Country Start-up Program in Uzbekistan
Sustainable Cotton Production –Promoting new farming systems
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan03.11.2021Page 10
Production
Processing
Export
Training managers and experts on CSR principles and international standards
▪ Occupational Health and Safety
▪ Workers Rights and Grievance Mechanisms
▪ Strengthening implementation of ILO
Promoting international sustainability certifications / standards like
Sustainable Processing –Promoting decent Work in Textile Factories
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan03.11.2021Page 11
Production
Processing
Export
Export and integration into international markets
▪ Systematically assessing and analysing the supply chain to identify risks and bottle necks
▪ Support private sector with risk assessments, information on the ground
▪ Build networks between Uzbek political partners, German and International political partners as well as private sector companies
▪ Strengthen demand and supply for more sustainable cotton and textile products from Uzbekistan -> market can drive long-term sustainability
Export –Strengthening Supply and Demand for sustainable products
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan03.11.2021Page 12
Farm Trader Yarn Fabric Garment Brand Retailer
Production
Processing
Export
Next Steps –How to promote a sustainable supply chain?
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan03.11.2021Page 13
Production Processing Export
Traceability of responsibly cultivated and harvested cotton
Fostering the demand for sustainable
cotton products from UzbekistanGrievance Mechanisms
www.giz.de https://twitter.com/giz_gmbh https://www.facebook.com/gizprofile/
Felix Ruhland
Manager Global Project
GIZ Germany
Contacts
Sustainability and Value Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan
Project Team, Uzbekistan Global Project, Germany
Oydin Sattarov
National Coordinator
GIZ Uzbekistan
+998 93 388 89 23
Joanna Möst
Junior Advisor
GIZ Uzbekistan
+998 93 399 48 08
Gina Burgard
Project Manager
GIZ Uzbekistan
03.11.2021Page 14