swa/rs · ultra-stitch- helps make uniform stretch stitches and ... kenmore machine, ... insert...

OWNER'S MANUAL

SWA/RS

SEWING MACHINE

MODELS 10101/11101/12551/12621/1440114501/14502/14571/14572

Part# 6027i9

Sears, Roebuck and Co.

Dear Homemaker,

CONGRATULATIONS !

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine.Here are just some of its special features:

* Full rotary shuttle with slanted bobbin -- quiet and smoothrunning, easy access to bobbin, best stitching performanceand easy maintenance with one-touch retainer system.

*Ultra-stitch- helps make uniform stretch stitches andbuttonholes every time. The machine automatically adjuststhe stitch thickness on forward and reverse stitches so youhave fewer adjustments to make when sewing.

Sew-by-color- recommended ranges of stitch length andwidth indicated and color-coded with stitch patterns.

Simple and easy threading system.

To make best use of these wonderful features, please read theinstructions in this booklet before you start sewing.

It contains information on operating and caring for your machine.You will get specific instructions on threading, tensionadjustments, cleaning, using the attachments, etc. By followingthese instructions you will get the best sewing results and avoidunnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

If you need additional advice on the operation and care of yourKenmore machine, contact your nearest Sears retail store. Pleaseremember to give the model number and serial number wheneveryou inquire about your Kenmore machine.

HAPPY SEWING !

Kenmore Sewin 9 Machine

Record in the space provided below the model numberand serial number of this appliance.The model number and serial number are located on thenomenclature plate, as identified on page 3 of thisbooklet.

Model No. Serial No.

Retain these numbers for future reference.

THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOWBAR SEWING MACHINE.

TABLE OF CONTENTSIII III I

1. KNOW YOUR MACHINELocate and identify the parts onyour machine ................................ 2 - 3Locate and identify the accessories .... 4 - 6

2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWINGSet up the machine ....................... 7 - 8*Plug in the machine and switchon the power .................................. 7

*Set the foot control ......................... 7*Adjust the presser foot ..................... 7*Put thread on th_spool pin ............... 8*Convert to free-arm sewing ............... 8Prepare the bobbin ...................... '9- 12*Load thread on the bobbin ........... 9- 10*Remove the bobbin case from theshuttle ......................................... 11

*Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.. 12*Insert the bobbin case into the shuttle.. 12Prepare the needle ...................... 13 - 14*Change the needle .......................... 13*Needle, thread, fabric and stitchlength chart ................................... 14

Prepare the top thread ................. 15 - 16*Thread the needle ........................... 15*Pick up the bobbin thread ................. 16Check the thread tension ................... 17Choose the right presser foot ......... 18 - 19*Know what the presser foot will do ..... 18*Change the presser foot ................... 19Use the feed cover plate ..................... 20

3. LEARN TO USE THE CONTROLSStitch selector dial ............................ 21Stitch length dial .............................. 21Stitch width control .......................... 22Reverse stitch lever ........................... 22Seam guide lines .............................. 22

4. PRACTICE GOOD HABITSBefore you begin to sew .................... 23When you begin to sew ..................... 23

5. LEARN TO USE THE STITCHESMachinesetting chart ........................ 24Straight stitches ......................... 25 - 28*Sewing a straight seam .................... 25*Square the corner ........................... 26*Top-stitching ................................. 26*Darning ........................................ 26*Basting ........................................ 27*Gathering ..................................... 27

6,

*Attaching a zipper ........................... 28*Cording ........................................ 28Zigzag stitches ........................... 29 - 32*Overcasting stitch ........................... 30*Satin stitch ................................... 30*Bar tacking ................................... 30*Applique ...................................... 31*Embroidery ................................... 31*Monogramming ............................. 31* Button sewing ............................... 32Three-step zigzag ............................. 33Blind hem ................................. 34 - 35Box stitch ....................................... 36Shell stitch ..................................... 37Stretch stitch ............................. 38 - 43*Adjusting stitch length ..................... 38*Where to use which stretch stitch:A check-chart ................................ 39

*Tips on sewing different fabrics .......... 40*Straight stretch stitch ...................... 41*Rick-rack stretch stitch .................... 41*Smocking stretch stitch ................... 41*Overcast stretch stitch ..................... 42*Serging or pine leaf stretch stitch ........ 42*Elastic stretch stitch ........................ 42*Overlock stretch stitch ..................... 43*Elastic edge stretch stitch ................. 43

LEARN TO SEW BUTTONHOLESChoose the buttonhole style ............... 44Manual method ............................. 45 - 45Built-in method .......................... 47 - 49*Adjust the stitch width ..................... 47*Adjust the stitch length .................... 47*Corded buttonholes (a variation of

the built-in buttonhole) .................... 49Buttonhole attachment system ...... 50 - 53*Set up the machine .................... 51 - 52*Make the buttonhole ....................... 53

7. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINEChange the sewing light bulb .............. 54Clean your machine ..................... 54 - 55*Clean the feed dogs ......................... 54*Clean the shuttle ............................ 55

8. CHECK CHART FOR PERFORMANCEPROBLEMSGeneral problems ............................ 56Stitching problems ...................... 56 - 57Thread problems .............................. 57

1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE

Locate and identify the parts on your machine

After you have unpackedyour new machine, set it on aflat, sturdy surface. Studythe following diagram so thatyou will know the workingparts of your machine.

You may need to refer tothese diagram often whilereading the instructions inthis manual.

Extensiontable

Thread guide

Take-up lever

Threading channel

Top thread tension control

=O

A_essory box/extensi

Thread cutter

_/_ Needle clamp screw** Presser foot release lever _ _ - Thread guide

** Thread cutter ./_ !'_ _

Presser foot thumb screw /'_ _ Q_ ""%_ ClotN;e_;

Presser foot _ _ _ _ _,,.=.,_/_ _. sc,ew hore

"\ \ __"_'_"_ _ _ooddo.,Needle plate _._"He, _'_ _--'f --

Seam guide lines _ __----------__ Cornering guides

I

NOTE: A detailed drawing which shows the parts of the shuttle and bobbin is on page 11.

2

** Bobbin winder shaft

** Bobbin winder latch

** Stitch width control

Stitch selector

Stitch length control

"* Stitch length indicator

Reverse stitch lever

*Model 14571, 14572, only**Model 14501, 14502, 14571,

14572 only

Hand wheel

Clutch knob

Bobbin winder stop

Bobbin winder shaft

Spool

I"

. Hand wheel/push-pullclutch

** Swing-away spool pin

Power/light switch

Foot control plugreceptacle

Nomenclature plate

** Extra spool pin

Fold-away carryinghandle

Pull-down lever forsewing light

Presser foot lever

Snap-in automaticbuttonhole attachment

Footcontrol .....__

Accessory box

3

II

Locate and identify the accessories

You should find the following items in theaccessory box.

Needle set

Spool pin capsBobbins large - No. 65653

small - No. 65652

Spool pinsNo, 44999

(Model 14501, 14502, 14571, 14572 only)

SExtra spoolpin Seam ripper/button-No, 64083 hole opener

No, 6830

Feed cover plateNo. 60934

Screw driverslarge - No. 65811small - No. 65812

Lint brush Straight stitch Straight stitchNo. 65650 foot No. 6873 foot No. 56483

Satin stitch foot Satin stitch foot Zipper foot Zipper foot Buttonhole guideNo. 657"/1 No. 57998 No. 6792 No. 56484 No. 41620

4

1

You should find the following items inthe snap-in automatic buttonholeattachment box.

(Model 14501, 14502, 14571, 14572 only)

Buttonhole guideplateNo. 65665

Buttonhole templates Buttonhole Buttonhole1 -- No. 65660 adapter foot2 - No. 65661 No. 64061 No. 579793 - No. 65662

Parts and accessoriesfitted on the machine

Standardzigzagfoot No. 65770

Standardzigzag Presserfootfoot No. 57985

Presserfootthumb NeedleclampholderNo. 56475 screwNo. 135 screwNo. 36353

Needleplate Bobbincase BobbincaseholderNo. 64156 No. 63963 No. 63977

Light bulb Foot controlNo. 6797 No. 6811

All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears store or service center.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWINGINFORMATION:

1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION3. MODEL NUMBER shown on the nomen- 4. NAME OF ITEM

clature plate. (See page 3 for location.)

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronicallytransmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.

5

II I II I

Optional accessories

Optional accessories help simplify the detail-ing that give your sewn garments a"professional" look.

Q FOOT Q NEEDLE(No. 65820) (No. 6746)

Q SET (No. 6986)- Helps avoid skipped stitches, especially

with synthetic, stretch and knit fabrics.

Blind hem foot (No. 6885)- Holds fabric folded for

blind hem sewing.

Roller foot (No. 6763)--Hinged zigzag type foot that

has one roller in front of needleand another roller behind it.Recommended for imitationleather or vinyl.

Even-feeding foot (No. 6887)-- Feedsboth fabric layers simultaneously

to help prevent bunching of UltraSuede fabric, satin, tricot or other slickfabrics; eases pattern matching.

Ruffler/pleater (No. 6891)-Gathers fabric to ease

making curtains,flounces etc.

Machine needles: (See page 14for how to choose needle)5 pcs. Regular color-codedneedles

Size 9-Brown (No. 6550)Size 11-Orange (No. 6551)Size 14-Red (No. 6552)Size 16-Purple (No. 6553)Size 18-Green (No. 6554)

Needle threader(No. 43780)

IContents: :30 cc OillINo. 6890)

Zipper foot (No. 6757)-For invisible zippers.

10 plastic bobbins(No, 6868)

10 pcs. Ball point color-coded needles(No. 6747)Size 9-Silver/Brown x 4pcs.Size 11-Silver/Orange x 4 pcs.Size 14-Silver/Red × 2 pcs.

2 pcs. Double needles (No. 6749)5 pcs. Q-Needles- Blue (No. 6746)

Accessory set (No. 68401)-Expands your machine's uses from

simple mending to deatiled gather-ing, quilting, shirring and more.Includes hemmers and guides.Presser feet let you attach braid,insert zippers and cording.

6

2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set up the machine

1. Be sure your machine is resting securelyon a sturdy, flat surface.

2. You may want to practice with a scrap offabric to absorb any dirt or grease.

Plug in the machine and switch onthe power

1. a. Plug the foot control into the machine.

b. Plug the cord into 110-120 volt A.C.wall outlet.

Turn on the power/light switch.

Be sure to turn off the power/lightswitch if you are interrupted or stopsewing.

NOTE: Your machine will not operate withthe power/light switch off.

Set the foot control

The foot control regulates the speed of thesewing machine.

Position the foot control with your heel onthe floor. The more pressure you apply to thefoot control, the faster the machine will run.

Control the presser foot lever

The presser foot lever raises and lowers yourpresser foot.

1. Lower the presser foot lever to sew.

, Raise the presser foot lever and thepressure of the presser foot will bereleased to insert or remove thin or thickfabrics.

. Extra height of the presser foot can beobtained by lifting the presser foot thumbscrew by finger to allow insertion ofthicker material.

NOTE: Presser foot pressure is set at thefactory. No adjustment is required.

Power/lighswitch

7

i Attach th.e spool pins

1. Check the accessory box for two spoolpins.

2. Attach the spool pins at the rear of yourmachine, using the large screw driver.

Put thread on the spool pin

1. a. Swing the spool pin away from you andfully to the back of the machine.

b. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.Secure it with a suitable size spool capwhich is similar to the size of the spool,to ensure smooth flow of thread.

NOTE: Remember to return the spool pinunder the arm for storage.

2. Attach the extra spool pin on the right endof the carrying handle, when sewing witha double needle (see page 6).

B

8

A

Convert to free-arm sewing

Your machine has a free arm for sewingsleeves, pant legs, etc. For free-arm sewing,you need to remove the extension table asfollows:

1. Remove the extension table by pulling it tothe left.

NOTE: Here are some of the uses of thisfree-arm feature:

* mend elbows and knees of garmeRts*sew in sleeves, especially on small

garments* applique, embroider, hem around edges

of cuffs or pant legs* sew in elastic casings in skirts or pants at

the waistline

2. For all other sewing, slide the table alongthe free arm until the pins (A and B) fit intothe holes on the machine.

Prepare the bobbin

Load Thread on the Bobbin

®

® ® ®

i •

1. Disengage the clutch by turning the clutchknob toward you.

2. a, Put a spool of thread on the spool pin.

b. Draw the thread from the spool throughthe thread guide.

3. a. Wind the thread around the bobbinseveral times in the direction of thearrow.

b. Place the bobbin onto the bobbinwinder shaft.

4. a. Push the bobbin winder shaft to theright until it clicks.

b. Start the machine by pressing down onthe foot control.

NOTE: The bobbin will stop turning whenit is filled.

5. a. Push the shaft to the left.

b. Remove the bobbin from the shaft andtrim the end of the thread.

6. Engage the clutch by turning the clutchknob away from you.

9

_!1 I III -

Prepare the bobbin

Load Thread on the Bobbin (Model 14501, 14502, 14571, 14572 only)

®

(Model 14571 )

(Model 14501 )

®

........ t.

®

1. Disengage the clutch by pulling the i_andwheel out (Model 14571) or turning theclutch knob toward you (Model 14501).

. a.

b.

. a.

Put a spool of thread on the spool pin.

Place a suitable size spool cap over thespool.

c. Draw the thread from the spool throughthe thread guide.

Wind the thread around the bobbinseveral times in the direction of thearrow.

b. Place the bobbin onto the bobbinwinder shaft.

4. a. Push the bobbin winder latch againstthe bobbin until it clicks.

b. Start the machine by pressing down onthe foot control.

NOTE: The bobbin will automatically stopturning when it is filled.

5. Remove the bobbin from the shaft andtrim the end of the thread.

6. Engage the clutch by pushing the handwheel back in toward the machine

(Model 14571) or turning the clutch knobaway from you (Model 14501).

10

Remove the Bobbin Case from theShuttle

1. Remove the extension table from themachine by pulling it to the left.

2. a. Open the bobbin access cover bypulling it down at the notch.

b. Use your forefinger and thumb to pullopen the latch on the bobbin case.

c. Pull the bobbin case out of the shuttle.

®

Bobbin access,cover

Notch

Bobbin case

3. Turn the bobbin case upside down and thebobbin will drop out of the case. ®

11

Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

®

® 1. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case withthe thread running counter clockwise.

2. Pull the thread through the slit in thebobbin case.

3, a. Pull the thread underneath the lfl_tension spring. It will clock when it is inplace.

bo Pull 3 to 4 inches of the thread from thebobbin case.

Insert the bobbin Case into the Shuttle

Locatinggroove

Notch

1. Hold the bobbin case by the latch, with thelocating groove downward.

2. Place the bobbin case onto the shuttle,keeping the thread pulled toward you.

NOTE: Be sure the notch in the shuttle fitsinto the groove of the bobbin case.It will click when it is in place.

12

\

\\

3. Fold the latch to the right to lock thebobbin case in place.

Prepare the Needle

Use the correct Kenmore needles. The size ofyour needle should match the size of thethread and both should match the fabric.Kenmore needles are color-coded by size foryour convenience. See the Needle, Thread,Fabric and Stitch Length Chart.

NOTE: 1. Never use a bent or dull needle.

2. If you do not have a Kenmoreneedle, use this illustration to besure your needle is right size.Distance from the top to the eye ofthe needle should be this exact

length.

A SPECIAL FEATURE: A "Q NEEDLE"TM witha blue shank is included in your accessorybox. This needle is designed especially forknits and synthetic fabrics. If your machineskips stitches when sewing these fabrics, youmay want to use a "Q FOOT" TM in additionto your "Q NEEDLE" ,M . See the optionalaccessories on page 6.

Change the needle

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel toward you.

2. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turningit toward you.

3. Remove the needle by pulling it downward.

4. Insert the new needle into the needleclamp with the flat side away from you.

5. Push the needle up as far as it can go.

6. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmlywith the large screw driver in youraccessory box.

Top

- - Eye

"Q NEEDLE"TM

Blue

I

I

Flatsideawayfromyou.

13

Needle, Thread, Fabric and Stitch Length Chart

Study this chart to help you select the correctsize needle to match your fabric and threadsize.

f

FABRIC

LIGHTWEIGHT: Batiste, Dimity,Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys,Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe,Taffeta, Voile, Organdy

MEDIUMWEIGHT: Cotton,Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham,Shantung, Pique, Seersucker,Satin, Knits, Vinyl, Suitings,Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

MEDIUM HEAVYWEIGHT:Corduroy, Denim, Wool,Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,Gabardine, Velvets, Leather

HEAVYWEIGHT: Coatings,Upholstery, Cotton Duck,Heavy Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching on alltypes of fabric

Synthetic Knits and Stretch:Polyester Double Knits, NylonTricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry,Spandex, Cire Tricot

Extra Thin Synthetic Knitsand Stretch

NEEDLESIZE AND

COLOR

9- BROWNor

11-ORANGE

14-RED

14-REDor

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

16-PURPLE18-GREEN

or

Q-BLUE

BALL POINT9-BROWN

11-ORANGE14-RED

Q-BLUEwith

"Q FOOT" _M

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton WrapFine Mercerized CottonSilk A

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap50 Mercerized CottonSilk A

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap50 Mercerized CottonMercerized Heavy-DutySilk A

Polyester Core/Cotton WrapHeavy-Duty Mercerized CottonPolyester SyntheticSilkA

ii,

Buttonhole Twist

Polyester Core/Cotton WrapMercerized Cotton

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap50 Mercerized Cotton

RECOMMENDEDSTITCH LENGTH

SETTING

12 stitchesper inch

10 to 12 stitchesper inch

8 to 10 stitchesper inch

8 stitchesper inch

6 stitchesper inch

10 for Regularor

6 to 12 StretchStitches

10 for Regularor

6 to 12 StretchStitches

14

Prepare the Top Thread

Thread the Needle

D

C B

\A

1. Raise the presser foot lever to allow thethread to pass between the tension discs inthe threading channel.

2. Raise the thread take-up lever to its highestposition by rotating the hand wheel towardyou.

3. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.4. Place a suitable size spool cap over the spool.5. Lead the thread through the thread guide (A)

and pull it toward you with your right handuntil it clicks.to ensure it is threaded correctly.

6. Pull the thread down into the threadingchannel (B) and up into the channel (C),while holding the thread with your right hand.

7. Slip the thread through the back of the take-up lever (D).

NOTE: Be sure the thread is running fromright to left and pulled all the wayforward into the rounded opening.

8. Pull the thread down through the channel (C)again.

9. Slip the thread through either of the threadguides (E) at the base of the needle (belowthe needle clamp screw) and pull the threadtoward you.

10. a. Threadthe needle from front to back.b. Draw 3 to 4 inches of thread through the

eye of the needle toward the back of themachine.

15

Pick up the Bobbin Thread

1. Raise the presser foot lever.

2. a. Hold the top thread loosely in your lefthand.

b. With your right hand, rotate the handwheel toward you until the take-up leverhas come to the top again.

3. a. Pull the top thread with your left hand tobring up the bobbin thread.

b. Pull the bobbin thread until the end

comes through the opening of theneedle plate.

4. Pull both threads under the presser foottoward the back of the machine.

If you did not pick up the bobbin thread with the above steps, check your methodwith the questions below:

1. Is the thread through the eye of the needle (front to back) ?2. Isn't the thread tangled around the needle ?3. Is the bobbin inserted in its case with the thread running counter clockwise ?4. Is the thread pulled underneath the bobbin case tension spring ?5. Isn't the thread in the bobbin tangled ?6. Are there 3 to 4 inches of thread coming out of the bobbin case ?

After checking all of the questions above, repeat steps 1 to 4.

16

Check the Thread Tension

Adjust the top thread tension

Straight stitching

The good looking appearance of your stitchingis largely determined by the balanced tension ofboth top and bobbin threads. The tension is wellbalanced when these two threads 'lock' in themiddle of layers of fabric you are sewing.NOTE: For most fabric the top thread tension

should be balanced within the orangezone between 2 and 4 on the threadtension control.

If, when you start to sew, you find that thestitching is irregular, you will need to adjust thetension control.

1. Lower the presser foot lever.2. a. If the threads are locking on the top

surface with the top thread lying flat, thetop thread is too tight. Slide the tensioncontrol to the left (lower numbers).

b. If the reverse is happening with the threadson the underside of the fabric, the topthread is too loose. Slide the tensioncontrol to the right (higher numbers).

Zigzag stitching

The top thread may appear on the undersidedepending upon the thread, fabric, type ofstitch and sewing speed, but the bobbin threadmust NEVER appear on the top of the fabric.

Adjust the bobbin thread tension

NOTE: You will rarely need to adjust the bobbinthread tension. Most adjustments shouldbe made on the top thread.

1. If the tension is well balanced, but the seampuckers badly, loosen the bobbin and topthread tension.

2. a. Insert the small screw dirver into the screwon the side of the bobbin case.

b. Make only a small adjustment each time,i.e. quarter to half a turn to the right toincrease tension r or to the left to decreasetension.

NOTE: Remember the original position of thescrew slot to put it back for normalsewing.

STRAIGHT STITCHING

Under_

Top _ __ Well balanced

sloe

op stitch Top stitchtoo tight too loose

ZIGZAG STITCHING

Fabricpuckers

Increase

Decrease

17

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Choose the Right Presser Foot

You will need change your presser foot tomatch the stitch you have chosen.

Know what the presser feet will do

±

Standard zigzag foot (Fitted on the machine)Use this foot for the general sewing with bothstriaght and zigzag stitching.

Satin stitch foot

This foot is grooved to permit densestitching to pass under it easily. Use it forappliqueing, bar tacking, embroidery andmonogramming.

Buttonhole foot

Use with the snap-in automatic buttonholeattachment.

Straight stitch foot

Use this foot for straight stitch or straightstretch stitch. The straight stitch foot willgive greater control of the fabric and moreeven straight stitches.

Zipper foot

This foot allows you to sew to the right or leftof the zipper or close to the cord.

Buttonhole guide

Use this special accessory with the zigzagfoot when making built-in buttonholes.Mount it on to the zigzag foot. Reproducingidentical size buttonholes is made easier with

the aid of the graduations on theeguide.

18

I/

Change the presser foot

Snap-on presser feet

1. Bring the needle to the up position.


3. Push the foot release lever and the presserfoot will drop off.

4. Place the new foot on the needle platealigning needle holes.

5. Lower the presser foot lever so that thepresser foot holder snaps on the foot.

6. Push down the presser foot thumb screwto engage the foot holder and the footsecurely.

Screw-type presser feet

To use some accessory feet (see page 6), youmay need to remove the presser foot holder.

1. Bring the needle to the up position.


3. Turn the presser foot thumb screw towardthe back of the machine using the largescrew driver.

4. Remove the presser foot holder.

5. Insert the new foot.

6. a. Lower the presser foot lever.

b. Tighten the thumb screw using thescrew driver to fit the foot securely.

Presserfootholder

!Footrelease_,_lever

Foot hold_

Footthumbscrew

I

19

IIII I I II I Er ,¸ IIII I

Use the Feed Cover Plate

The feed dogs automatically feed the fabric.If you want to prevent the feed dogs fromfeeding the fabric, use the Feed Cover Platewhich covers the feed dogs so that they donot touch the fabric.

NOTE: Use the feed cover plate when sewingon buttons, making buttonholes withthe snap-in automatic buttonholerand darning.

1. Insert the two knobs on the feed coverplate into the two holes on the fabric feedarea. The curved corners will be towardyou when it is in place.

L

/I

i1l

Use the Double Needle*

Place the second spool of thread on the extraspool pin, and thread the machine as youwould for a single needle except the doublethread guides provided below the needleclamp screw. Draw one thread through eachof these and through each side of the needlefrom front to back. Make certain threads arenot crossed.

* See the optional accessories on page 6.

2O

3. LEARN TO USE THE CONTROLS

Your machine has many special features to make your sewing both easy and accurate. Take aminute to look at the three controls that regulate your stitches.

Stitch Selector

Your sewing machine can make a variety ofstitches. They are pictured on the StitchSelector Dial. In addtion, there are threebuttonhole steps pictured on the dial also.

NOTE: Beginning on page 24, you will finddetailed instructins on the use of eachstitch.

I!̧

Orange patterns_ Blue buttonhole steps

Green pattern __--- Orange pattern

Green patterns

Blue buttonhole

- Yellow patterns

Stitch Length Control

To lenghten a stitch, turn the dial towardyou. To shorten a stitch, you turn the dialaway from you. You will see 5 numbers onthe dial. These tell you the number of stitchesper inch when you are sewing.

NOTE: Study the orange, green, yellow andblue sections on this control. These

are recommended ranges of stitchlength and color-coded to the stitchespictured on the Stitch Selector.

The orange line between 0 and 24 is thesetting used for the shortest stitches such asin satin stitching.

Orange pattern ran pattern range

Shorter

Blue buttonhole range

Yellow pattern range- X /

L°n;;:tern range i_ ! !_l_lll

Green pattern range --/ \

Orangepattern range

_ Shorter

j_i! LongerBluebuttonhole range

21

1 • 2 • 3 '--_" 5 -_

t

I III

Stitch Width Control(Model 14501, 14502, 14571, 14572 only)

The width of all stitches produced on thismachine (except the straight stitch) can bemade narrower or wider by adjusting thestitch width control.

To decrease or increase the width of a stitch,slide the stitch width control from 1 - 5. Thehigher the number the wider the stitch.

When straight stitching, set this control at"1" to achieve uniform straight stitches.

NOTE: Study the colored sections on thiscontrol. These are recommendedranges of stitch width and color-coded to the stitches pictured on theStitch Selector.

I

Reverse stitch lever

Besides these three controls, there are othercontrols on your machine as follows:

Reverse Stitch Lever

Push down and hold the lever to reverse thedirection of your stitches. The machine willgo forward again when you release the lever.

BACKTACKINGSecure your seams by taking the first fewstitches in reverse. Then allow the machineto go forward. This is called backtacking.Reverse the machine at the end of yourseams as well.

Cornering Guides

Seam Guide Lines

The needle plate is marked with seam guidelines to help you stitch straight seams.

The standard 5/8" lines are bolder for yourconvenience.

The dimensions indicate the distance fromthe straight stitch needle position.

The cross lines are cornering guides to helpyou make square corners. See page 26 fordetailed cornering instructions.

22

4. PRACTICE GOOD HABITS

-- Before you begin to sew

1. Check the needle:a. Is it inserted properly ?

(See page 13)b. Is it the correct size for your fabric ?

(See the chart on page 14)c. Is it threaded properly ?

(See page 15)

d. Is it straight and sharp ?NOTE: Many synthetic fabrics dull

your needle quickly. Be sureto replace needles often.

2. Check the threads.

a. Are they both on top of the needleplate surface ?

b. Do you have 3-4 inches pulledtoward the back of the machine.

NOTE: Hold the threads for the first3 to 4 stitches of the seam tokeep them from tangling underthe fabric.

3. Check the stitch controls and presserfoot.a. Are the color codes on the controls

matched correctly ?b. Do you have the correct presser

foot for the project and for the typeof stitch you have chosen ?

When you begin to sew

1. Test the machine on a scrap ofmaterial.

a. Always begin your first stitches byturning the hand wheel toward youto lower the needle into the fabric.

b. Run the machine at a slow, evenspeed. The more pressure youapply to the foot control, the fasterthe machine will stitch.

c. Adjust the tension control ifnecessary. (See page 17)

d. Backtack at the beginning and endof each seam. (See page 22)

e. Finish sewing with the needle at itshighest position except cornering.

f. Guide the fabric gently. Do notpull. The machine will feed thematerial at its own speed.

g. Always turn the hand wheel towardyou, never away from you.

NOW YOU'REREADY TO LEARN THESTITCHES. PLEASE TURN TO THENEXT PAGE.

i ,

23

5. LEARN TO USE THE STITCHESI I

Machine Setting Chart

The following pages will show you how to:1. Set the Stitch Selector.

2. Set the Stitch Length Control.

3. Set the Stitch Width Control.

NOTE: Machine settings are graphicallyshown for your quick reference.

charts, select and sew a variety ofstitches shown below.

4. Use the stitch correctly.

Simply following the illustrated

Top thread tension control Stitch width controlf _, f

NOTE: You may want to use fabric scrapsto experiment with these stitches.This manual will show you the bestuses of these stitches.

1 .2.3 4 5 1Stitch selector

0

Presser foot Stitch length control

f =-- " -L

i ,_ I _ I • ee 12-1-

J ¢.... 1j - !J -iZigzag stitch

Three-step zigzag

Blind stitch

Shell stitchi

Box stitch

rwo-point shell stitch

Elastic blind stitch

Elastic edge stretch

Overlock stretch

Straight stitch

Built-in buttonhole

Straight stre_tch

Rick-rack stretch

Smocking stretch

Overcast stretch

Serging stretch

Elasticstretch

24

Straight Stitches


See page 17.

Stitch width control

z

'1" to obtainuniform stitches.

Stitch selector

0

Presserfootf

*Straight or zigzag

_. foot _NOTE: For most straight stitching, the Istraight foot will give you best control. Youmay use the zigzag foot if you prefer.


12 or orange range ._

NOTE: Always beoin your first stitches byturning the hand wheel toward you tolower the needle into the fabric.

* Choose this stitch to perform the followingtasks:

Sewing a Straight Seam

NOTE: Use the instructions that follow asgeneral rules for handling yourmachine, regardless of the particularstitch you are using.

1. Backtack (see page 22) by beginning1/2 inch from the beggin!ng of the seam.

2. For 5/8 inch seam, line up the edge of thefabric where the seam guide is marked.

3. Backtack at the end of each seam.

4. a. Turn the hand wheel to raise the needleto its highest position.

b. Raise the presser foot by pushing thepresser foot lever up.

c. Pull the material toward the back or sideof the machine.

d. Use the thread cutter on the presserfoot release lever to cut off excessthreads.

25

26

Corneringguide Square the Corner 5/8" from the

fabric edge

. a°

b.

2. a.

b.

Co

Stop stitching your 5/8 inch seam whenthe fabric is even with the corneringguide (cross marks).Leave the needle in the fabric.

Lift the presser foot.Turn the fabric so that the unstitchedside is lined up with the seam guide.Lower the presser foot and stitch in thenew direction.

Top-stitching

Top-stitching improves the appearance of atailored garment and at the same time holdsfacings in place.

You may want to stitch with a thread ofcontrasting color to your fabric.

1. Set the stitch length at 8 - 6.

2. Stitch 3/8 inch from the edge on top of thefabric.

Darning

1. a. Attach the feed cover plate (seepage 20).

b. Remove the presser foot holder (seepage 19).

c. Stretch the fabric with the hole in thecenter between embroidery hoops asshown.

2. Lower the presser foot lever and sew at aslow speed.

/3. Move the fabric back and forth with a

steady rhythm until you have covered thedarning area.

° When the area is covered, turn the fabricso that you can repeat the procedureacross the first stitches.

NOTE: If the garment is badly damaged, youmay want to put a separate piece offabric under the hole to reinforce it.

IIII I _1

Basting

,

2.

,

Set the stitch length control at 6.

Set the top thread tension control at 1 - 2to facilitate pulling out bobbin thread.

Insert pins at right angles to the seam line,

with the tip of pins just touching the seamline.

NOTE: Pins must not come in contact withthe feed dogs. Never pin on theunderside of the fabric.

=

4. Sew over the tip of pins slowly.

NOTE: If in doubt about sewing over pins,remove each pin as you approachit.

Gathering

°

2.

3.

4,

Set the stitch length control at 6.

Set the top thread tension control at 1 - 2.

Sew one or as many rows of parallelstitches as required, but do not backtackat the begginings and ends of the rows.

Remove the fabric and draw up the bobbinthread to gather the fabric to the requiredlength or fullness.

27

Needle to leftof foot

Needle to rightof foot

Attaching a zipper

1. To sew down the right side of the zipper,attach the left side of the zipper foot to thepresser foot holder so that the needlepasses through the opening on the leftside of the foot.

2. To sew down the left side, attach the rightside of the foot to the foot holder.

Cording

* Use the zipper foot to make cording for slipcovers, pillows etc.

1. Attach the right side of the zipper foot tothe presser foot holder.

2. Wrap the cord with a strip of true bias.

3. Stitch close to the cord.

28

Zigzag stitches

Top thread tension controlf

w0.2 4.6.8

See page 17.

resser,oot

Zigzag foot _-_ [-

Stitch width control Stitch selector

I II1-5


1 or orange rangej

Models with stitch width control

The simple zigzag stitching enables you to domany exciting things with your sewingmachine. Beyond basics, you'll use this stitchto applique, embroider and monogram.Unlike the straight stitch, the zigzag stitcheshave a side-to-side width as well as a stitchength. You will find ideas for many zigzag

operations on following pages. You cancreate an exciting variety of zigzag stitchesby adjusting stitch width and length controls(see the chart below).

Extra wide zigzag for heavy fabrics orthose that fray -- set width at 5.

Wide zigzag for double layers, likehemming -- set width at 4.

Medium zigzag for most constructionseams - set width at 2 - 3.

Narrow zigzag for light fabrics, barelyshows -- set width at 1.

==

Models without stitch width control

By rotating the stitch selector, it is possible tochoose six different widths of zigzag.

These are illustrated on the dial which willproduce the various zigzag widths as shownin the diagram.

The stitch selector can be turned insuccession with ease within the zigzag stitch'range. Use this feature to make decorativepatterns.

l/Ill

29

Overcasting stitch

* Choose this stitch to keep seams or fabricfrom raveling.

NOTE: To reinforce seams with overcasting,it is recommended to use the three-step zigzag (see page 33).

1. Stitch so that the point of the zigzag clearsthe raw edge of the fabric.

Satin stitchfoot

I0

!!I

I

IIIl

I

I

I_1

Satin stitch

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satinstitches.

* Choose this stitch for bar tacking, applique-ing, embroidery and monogramming.

1. Set the stitch length control at the orangeline between 0 and 24.

2. Use the satin stitch foot which is groovedto permit dense stitching to pass under iteasily.

NOTE: You may need to loosen the topthread tension to prevent puckering.The wider the stitch, the looser thetension should be. (See page 17.)

Use tissue paper or interfacing beneath a softfabric to improve the appearance of thisstitch.

Practice the stitch on a piece of the fabric youwill use before actually stitching your sewingproject.

Bar tacking

* Choose this stitch to reinforce points ofstrain such as corners of pockets and strapson lingerie.

1. Set same as satin stitch.

2. Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches on top of thefabric.

30

Applique

To applique a design on a sewing project orgarment:1. Baste the applique to the top of your fabric.2. Then use satin stitch to attach permanently.

You may want to use a contrasting colorthread.

NOTE: For best results, be sure your satin stitchcovers the bottom fabric and the topfabric.

Embroidery and Monogramming

Satin stitch method

Satin stitch can be used to produce manydifferent designs and patterns.1. Set controls the same as for satin stitch.

2. Back the fabric with paper or interfacing.3. Draw the design on to the fabric with tailor's

chalk.

4. Satin stitch, adjusting the stitch width asnecessary to form each pattern.

5. If using paper, carefully remove it when youhave finished sewing.

Free hand method

1. a. Attach the feed cover plate (see page 20).b. Remove the presser foot holder (see

page 19).c. Set the stitch width at 1 to 5 as desired.

2. Draw the design on to the fabric with tailor'schalk.

3. Stretch the fabric between embroidery hoopsand place under the needle.

4. Lower the presser foot lever to engage thetop thread tension.

5. a. Holding the top thread in your left hand,rotate the hand wheel toward you onecomplete turn.

b. Pull the top thread to draw the bobbinthread through to the surface of the fabric.

6. Using a medium speed, stitch along themarked outline, guiding the fabric carefullyby hands.

31

Feed cover

Button sewing

1. Attach the feed cover plate (see page 20).

2. Use clear tape to fix the button on yourfabric before stitching.

.

4.

5.

6.

NOTE: When sewing a flat button, placea pin between the holes so yourbutton will be loose enough foreasy buttoning.

Align the two holes of the button with theslot of the presser foot.

Lower the presser foot.

Turn the hand wheel by hand until theneedle point is just above the button.

Adjust the stitch width control so theneedle will enter one hole of the button.

= Turn the hand wheel again so the needlewill enter the second hole. Readjust thestitch Width if necessary.

8. Stitch several times.

9. Leave 2 inches of thread after stitching.

10. Pull these threads under the fabric and tiesecurely.

32

I I il I I I

Three-step Zigzag

Top thread tension controlf-

f

i


S page 17. ___ _ 4-5 ,,

Presser foot = I = =

gg ) ' L_ i

! itch length control

I I ; ,-I

IIIn:lt • • 12-1-'

' l!"il

\ 12 or green range ,,)

NOTE: Three-step zigzag takes three shortstitches, where regular zigzag takesone.

* Choose this stitch to mend a tear or toovercast a raw edge.

To Mend:

1. Put a piece of fabric under the tear to bemended.

2. Stitch so that the fabric on both sides ofthe tear is caught by the points of thestitch.

To Overcast:

NOTE: See the instructions on page 30 forzigzag stitch overcasting. The three-step overcasting stitch is strongerthan the regular zigzag overcaststitch. Use this stitch to keep fabricfrom puckering.

33

Blind Hem


IStitch width control Stitch selector

0 . 2,_ • 6 •B_ _r[_===_ I . 2 . 3 "-_'5__ t

See page 17. 2 - 5 (Green range)

Presser foot k I Stitch length control

IlUi

Zigzag foot j I taFo°_eSe_s!h:__!_d _b._!6_ :!eieSp!ii_) m;t_ed

f

12 or green range j

--V-V....V- -- Regular blind stitch fornormal fabrics

--Elastic blind stitch forsoft, stretchable fabrics

(Model 14571 only)

* Choose this stitch to use on garments andespecially on curtains and drapery hems sothat stitches need not show on the front ofthe fabric.

INSIDEOF DRESS

FINALHEMLENGTH

FINISHED "EDGE

1. Finish the raw edges, depending on whatyou are sewing and the nature of fabric.

NOTE: For light weight fabrics, you mayneed a double fold.

The hem should be pressed and pinned inplace.

34

2. a. Fold the garment away from the hem.

b. Leave1/8 inch of the hem edge exposed.

3. a. With the wrong side up, place the fabricunder the foot.

b. Lower the presser foot.

c. Stitch so that the needle just pierces thefold when the needle swings to the left.

®

®

FINISHEDEDGE

4. Unfold the garment and press the hemflat. ® RIGHT SIDE OF

FINISHED HEM

35

I1_ II I

Box Stitch


Presser foot

Zigzag foot

i


1 .2 .3 4 5

3 -- 5 (Green range)

1Stitch selector

0


12 or green range

i I

I

fI

r1"I

__ f

¼'"

* Choose this stitch to sew flat overlappedseams or to decorate a finished edge onlingerie or nightwear.

To Sew Overlapped Seams:

1. a. Overlap the raw edges of two pieces offabric.

b. Stitch so that the stitches pierce bothpieces of fabric on the left and rightsides.

To Make a Decorative edge:

1. Stitch close to the folded edge of yourgarment with a matching or contrastingthread to create a bold look.

36

I !i

Shell Stitch

Top thread tension control Stitch width control Stitch selector

" "- _ , 7 1 0 -"

0 • 2--'_ • 6 • B __ 1 ' 2 ' 3 '--_' 5

S page17. _ _ 3-5<Greenr_n____ _._ _

Presserfoot _ _ __St itch length control_-_'4 --

7 It:-' _ --_ _'11 "-I // /7 # (_)It' ,,io-.i

_\ I __ I __ llln:l\\\,\ _ .,o I _ -" • • ll-I_

Zigzag foot J I _ _ 12 or green range i

* Use this stitch to finish the edges, hems,sleeves and neck opening of lingerie ornightwear.

Form the shell stitch by sewing over thefolded fabric.

For best results:

1. You may need to tighten the top threadtension slightly.

2. Allow the needle to just clear the foldededge of the fabric when it zigzags.

NOTE: If you sew rows of shell stitches,space the rows 1/2 inch apart.

Two types of shell stitchesare built into yourmachine:

_- Regular produces ashell stitch whichtiny shell hem on lingerie and otherfine garments.

r>_t Two-point shell stitch to be used forbigger size of shell pattern.

37

Stretch Stitches


O, _'--_, 6 • 8

See page 17.


11 " 2 ' 3 '-_" 5 --_

2 -- 5 (Yellow range)

Stitch selector

fPresser foot

Zigzag foot


6-- 12(Yellow range)

J

{..

rx/

V_

v_V_

V_

V_.

V_

v_

These eight stitches are built into yourmachine to use with stretch and knit fabrics:

1. Straight stretch stitch2. Rick-rack stretch3. Smocking stretch4. Overcast stretch5. Serging or pine leaf stretch6. Elastic stretch7. Overlock stretch

8. Elastic edge stretch (model 14571 only)

NOTE: For best results, use the "QNEEDLE"T, and "Q FOOT"TM" forsewing on knit and synthetic fabrics.See the optional parts list on page 6.

Ultra Stitch

Depending upon your preference in stitchpatterns, Ultra Stitch feature enables you tomake stretch stitches closer together withoutchanging the balance of forward and reversemotion stitches by turning the stitch lengthcontrol within the yellow range.

38

_1 II

Where to Use Which Stretch Stitch: A Check-Chart

Some Stretchy Suggestions...

1. To keep loosely constructed knits fromcatching on the toes of the presser foot,wrap a short strip of transparent tape ofthe presser foot encasing both toes.

2. To avoid tangled threads, start seamscarefully. Position your fabric and loweryour needle before lowering the presserfoot.

3. Test the thread tension and stitch on ascrap of the same fabric you will use.

4. Knits contain more yarn (and more lint)than woven fabrics. Check often and cleanthe bobbin case area.

STRAIGHT STRETCH

/VVVV RICK-RACK STRETCH

SMOCKING STRETCH

ELASTIC STRETCH

VVVV 7 7 I /OVERCAST OR ELASTIC

EDGE STRETCH

\/\/\/\/\/Zh/'hZhZh,/h

OVERLOCK STRETCHSTITCH

\\\\\\\SERGING OR PINE LEAF

SUITABLE FOR STRETCH FABRICS

Use on stretch and knit fabrics and to repair ready madegarments at stress points. Basic stitch for all garmentseams requiring "give" (i. e. armholes, crotch area, etc.).Use also to sew center seam of men's neck ties and seamscut on the bios.

A basic multi-purpose stretch stitch with same usage aszigzag stitch, especially for lightweight stretch fabrics.

A decorative stitch for use on children's clothing, lingerie,yokes of blouses, dress bodice.

Use to apply elastic to lingerie or to repair readymadelingerie and replace or restitch elastic.

Use on sportswear where 1,4" seams are required. Makesand finishes seams at same time.

Use to overcast loosely constructed knits or wovenfabrics.

Use for overcasting fabrics that ravel or fray easily.., andfor seams that need a great deal of stretch (i.e.swimwear, other sportswear, girdles). Also good-looking!

BASIC STITCHES

PLAIN ZIGZAG

_I' II I_" / _"]|.i_.[t./t./t.A.I_I l\ 1_ l\ I__1\__1\__1 \__1\_

SHELL .STITCHES

WITH STRETCH APPLICATIONS

Use for all-purpose stretch sewing, seam finishing, edgefinishing, or attaching stretch laces.

A good finishing stitch for nylon tricot lingerie.

39

Tips on Sewing Different Fabrics

The chart below provides many details butyou'll also want to remember...

* Soft or fine fabrics may require a backing orinterfacing of paper, especially wherestitches are close together.

* When sewing knits use a strong, fine threadtogether with "Q NEEDLE"._.

* When working on tweed or other multi-colored bulky fabrics, use one color threadin the bobbin, another on the top. (Greatfor repairs-the "patch" practically dis-appears.)

v --

FABRICS

NYLON TRICOT

TERRY CLOTH ORREGULAR CORDUROY

TERRY CLOTHSTRETCH

LEATHER

STRETCH KNITS FORSWlMWEAR AND SKIWEAR OR GIRDLES

USEFUL STITCHES TOUSE

Serging stretchOvercast stretchOverlock stretchElastic edge stretchElastic stretch (for sewingon elastic)Blind hem

Three-step zigzag

Simple zigzagThree-step zigzag

Simple zigzagThree-step zigzagOvercast stretchSerging stretchElastic edge stretch

Straight or simple zigzag

Serging stretchOvercast stretchElastic edge stretchElastic stretchThree-step zigzag

SPECIAL NOTIONS TO USE

"Q NEEDLE" T.Polyester, nylon or

dacron core thread"Q FOOT" T. *

Mercerized threadSize 14 needle

Mercerized thread

Polyester, nylon ordacron core thread

"Q NEEDLE"T."Q FOOT" T. *

Mercerized or silk threadSize 14 needleEven feed foot*

Polyester, nylon ordacron core thread

"Q NEEDLE" T."Q FOOT" T. *Lace seam tapePre-shrunk zippers

* See the optional accessories on page 6.

40

Straight Stretch Stitch

* Choose this stitch to strengthen curvedseams on all fabrics or to do all straightstitching on knit or synthetic fabrics.

1. Sew as you do with the regular straightstitch.

Rick-Rack Stretch Stitch

* Choose this stitch for knits and syntheticfabrics whenever you want a zigzag stitch.Also use this stitch as a decorative topstitch.

1. Sew as you do with the regular zigzagstitches.

Smocking Stretch Stitch

* Use this stitch as a decorative stitch. Alsochoose this stitch to bind gathers with asmocking pattern,

NOTE: You should have the fabric gatheredbefore using this stitch.

1. Pin a narrow strip of fabric under the linewhere you will bind gathers,

2, Stitch over the gathers through to the stripof fabric beneath.

NOTE: Complete the smocking of your fabricbefore sewing it to the garment.

41

III

Overcast Stretch Stitch

* Choose this stitch to seam and finish theraw edge at the same time. Choose thisstitch to repair raw or worn edges of oldergarments.

I. To seam and overcast at the same time,you must have the raw edges of yourfabric to the right of your needle.

NOTE: To achieve this same effect, theserging stretch or overlock stretchstitch can be used with the raw edgeson the left side of the needle.

Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitch

* Choose this stitch to produce a narrow,supple seam, particularly suited to swim-wear, sportswear, T-shirts, babywear instretch fabrics and to seam or alter knittedclothes.

Elastic Stretch Stitch

* Choose this stitch to attach elastic to

garments.

1. Mark the elastic into quarters and matchthese to the center front, center back andside seams.

2. Place the middle of the elastic under thecenter of the presser foot and stitch intoplace, making sure the elastic is evenlydistributed.

42

Overlock Stretch Stitch

* Choose this stitch to overcast looselyconstructed knits or woven fabrics, becausethreads lock in the middle to reinforceseams for more durability.

Elastic Edge Stretch Stitch

* Choose this stitch in preference to theovercast stretch stitch for overcastingstretch or knit fabrics where strength andflexibility are required.

1. Sew as you do with the overcast stretchstitch.

43

6. LEARNING TO SEW BUTTONHOLES

With your Kenmore sewing machine youhave two methods of making buttonholes.You may use the built-in system or you may

use the snap-in automatic buttonhole attach-ment system.

-,J

Choose the buttonhole style

. Built-in or manual buttonholes (rectan-gular) Choose this style for waistband,cuffs, belt slots or where you will needonly one or two buttons.

2. Round end buttonholes (TemplateNo. 45195, 45196)Choose this style for series of buttonholeson dresses, blouses, vests, jackets orcoats.

3. Keyhole buttonholes (Template No. 45197)Choose this style for tailored vests,jackets, coats or any time you need moreroom for button shank.

Tips on buttonholing

Always make a practice buttonhole on ascrap of fabric you plan to use. Try thebuttonhole with the button you will use.

Always use an interfacing in area ofgarment where buttonholes are placed.

Tissue paper or regular interfacing canbe used. Tear paper away after stitch-ing, if it is used.

For heavier weight fabrics, loosen yourtop thread tension slightly.

44

Manual Method


O, 2 4 .6,8

See page 17.

Presser foot

I II

Stitch selector

t h control

-5

J

1. a. Carefully mark the buttonhole length onyour garment.

b. Insert it under the presser foot with theleft side of buttonhole under the needle.

2. a. Make sure the needle swings to theright and pierce the fabric at point A.

b. Stitch to the end of the marking andstop with the needle in the fabric on theright side of stitching (point B).

Q

Diameterof buttonplus 1/8".

0 ®

45

I III II

0

m

O.

0|

/

0

®

®

®

®

3. a. Raise the presser foot and turn thefabric.

b. Turn the stitch selector to the fourthnarrow zigzag position.

c. Lower the presser foot and take onestitch to the left (point B to C).

4. a. Raise the presser foot with the needle inthe fabric.

b. Turn the stitch selector to the widestzigzag position.

c, Bartack about three stitches and stopwith the needle on the left side of

stitching (point D).

5. a. Raise the presser foot.

b. Return the stitch selector to the originalposition.

c. Lower the presser foot and sew theother side of buttonhole.

d. Stop with the needle in the fabric on theleft side of stitchincj (point E).

6. a. Raise the presser foot and turn thestitch selector to the widest zigzagposition.

b. Lower the presser foot and bartackabout three stitches.

c. Remove the fabric and cut the hole

open.

46

Built-in Method


0-2 4 ,6, B

See page 17.


1 .2.3 4 5

*3.5 -- 4.5(Blue range)

1Stitch selector

0

Presser foot

Zigzag foot plusbuttonhole guide


-1* Adjust the stitch width

(Model 14501, 14502, 14571, 14572 only)

You may adjust the width of the sides and thespace in the center within the blue range(3.5 - 4.5) as shown, depending upon yourfabric and buttonhole length.

The space gets wider for wider buttonhole.

HFIiI\.!!

1 .2.3.4 .5

-Ii,il,f ,IU

** Adjust the stitch density

Depending upon your fabric or your ownpreference in buttonholes, you may alter thebuttonhole stitch density within the bluebuttonhole range on the stitch length control.

1. For more density, turn the control toward"24".

2. For less density, turn the control towardHe,i"

More density

Less density

®

47

48

Buttonhole guide

Make the Buttonhole

1. a. Carefullymark the buttonholelength onyour garment.

b. Mount the buttonhole guide onto thepresser foot with the letter "F" at the

• front so that the rearedge of the presserfoot is at the end of the guide.

c. Insert thegarment underthe guide withthe buttonholemarking running towardyou.

NOTE'.Line up the markings on the guidewith the length you have marked tohelp you stitch accurately. Markingsare engraved in inches.

I'I,2. a. Set the stitch selectorat ,',' .

b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.

c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.

3. a. Set the stitch selector at ]1] .

b. Sew forward until you reach the frontmarking of your buttonhole.

c. Stop sewing at the left stitch,

4. a. Set the stitch selectorat ,'.,'.b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.

c. Stop sewing at the right stitch.

5. a. Set the stitch selectorat lit .

b. Sew until you reach the back of thebuttonhole.

c. Remove the fabric and cut the holeopenwith the buttonholeopenerinyouraccessorybox.

I I III I

Corded Buttonholes (a variation ofthe built-in buttonhole)

Corded buttonholes are a stronger variationof the regular buttonhole. You need to obtainfiller cord (crotchet thread or buttonholetwist).

1. Cut a length of cord about twice the lengthof the buttonhole guide.

2. Fold the cord in half.

3. Hook the cord at its mid point on the spurOf the guide.

4. Pull both ends of the cord forward underthe guide.

5. Sew your buttonhole so that the stitchingcovers the cord.

6. When stitching is complete, release thecord from the spur, pull the ends of thecord and snip off the extra length.

49

Buttonhole Attachment System

For more varied and accurate buttonholes,you will enjoy using the buttonhole attach-ment and templates. Know the parts and

read carefully how to set up your machineproperly. You will need these items for thebuttonhole attachment system.

.._W

Guide ___Template advanceslots Lj" knob

Buttonhole guide plate

HookEL Density control

Guide _Gearblocks

Lock Buttonhole adapterlever

3 Templates

Buttonhole foot

5O

Feed coverplate

Set up the machine


; O, 2 4.6.8

See page 17.


i Buttonhole foot

Feed cover plate

k. on needle plate


Not necessary toadjust

J

nlnn

I, ao

b.

C.

d.

2, a.

b.

C.

d.

Remove the extension table.

Raise the needle to its highest position.

Remove the presser foot.

Position the feed cover plate in place.

Open the bobbin access cover.

Make sure the lock lever of thebuttonhole adapter is at the rightreleased position.

Pulling the density control knob towardyou, insert the two hooks of thebuttonhole adapter between the twopins located under the needle plate.

Push the lock lever away from you untilthe adapter snaps into place.

Hook

Locklever

Density controlknob

51

Jl!

,_._.,--Guide plate

Te_ _

keomPlate advance_

Template _ -.,v v

I IIIF'II_{I I}iIIIltl..J..-GuideIIIllmli!.LJilII1_f I slot

IllllII_i!i tlllll 11-Pien_On

J

, a,

bo

When you have selected the templatewith the size and style buttonhole youneed, slide the template into the guideplate under the knob, so that thestamped letters on the template pointup.

Turn the template knob until the sizebuttonhole you have chosen appears inthe winSow of the guide plate.

4. Slip the guide plate onto the machine sothat:

al the gear on top of the adapter fits intothe template arc, which shows in thewindow of the guide plate, and

b. the guide blocks fit into the guide slots.

o a,

b.

Attach the buttonhole foot.

Pull the bobbin thread up through thefeed cover plate by turning the handwheel toward you.

52

r Ill

Make the Buttonhole

1. a,

b.

C.

d.

Mark your buttonhole position carefullyon the garment.

Insert your garment between the guideplate and the presser foot.

Pierce the fabric with the needle at thefar end of the buttonhole.

Line up your fabric edge with themeasurement markings on the far endof the guide plate.

NOTE: If you want your buttonhole to be1/2 inch from the garment edge, lineup the fabric with the 1/2 inchmarkings each time you start to sew abuttonhole.

2. a. Lower the presser foot.

b. Start sewing slowly.

c. Allow the machine to do the work byitself. (Do not try to guide the fabric.)

d. Stop sewing when the needle returns tothe position where it begins.

3. Release the buttonhole adapter by pushingdown and pulling the lock lever.

['

You may alter the closeness of the stitches by turning the density control knob onthe buttonhole adapter.

a. Toward you for more density.

b. Away from you for less density. _,_w_.,t_t,w:.,t,,:,,t,.i__wt_"_;w;_w;A""'v'v_

Stitch densitycontrol knob

Moredensity

53

7. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE

Chan_je the light bulb

1. Unplug the machine.

2. a. Using the screw driver, push down thelever located behind the presser bar andthe bulb will come out.

b. Push the lever to the right to lock.

3. a. Push up the bulb and turn slightly to theleft.

b. Pull down to remove it.

4. a. Insert the new bulb and turn it withsome upward pressure until it stops.

b. Push up the bulb and turn to the right tolock into place.

5. Push the lever back to the left and then upinto the machine.

54

1:1

Clean your machine

Factory lubricated parts will provide years ofhousehold sewing without routine oiling.To retain the high quality level built in yourmachine, clean it regularly. Watch for lintcollecting around the needlebar, bobbin caseholder locating pin and feed dogs. Wheneverchanging the bobbin or needle, "observe theseareas and clean as necessary. Sears servicetechnicians will routinely check for possiblelubrication needs whenever your machinerequires service.

Clean the feed dogs

1. Unplug the machine and remove thepresser foot.

2. Remove the needle plate by loosening thetwo screws with the large screw driver.

3. Use the brush to remove the lint thataccumulates in and around the feed dogsand shuttle area.

Clean the shuttle

1. Unplug the machine.

2. a. Use your forefinger and thumb to pullopen the latch on the bobbin case.

b. Pull the bobbin case out of the shuttle.(Fig. 1)

3, a. Turn the hand wheel until the open sideof the retainer is at the top.

b. Turn the retainer counter clockwise withyour forefinger and thumb while holdingthe hand wheel, and it will be released.(Fig. 2)

c. Remove the retainer and bobbin casei holder from the shuttle. (Fig. 3)J4. Clean the shuttle area with the lint brush.

NOTE: Put a drop of sewing machine oil*on the shuttle raceway (see Fig. 3) occa-sionally after thorough cleaning.*See the optional accessories on page 6.

5. Turn the hand wheel until the open side ofthe shuttle is at the top.

!6 Insert the bobbin case holder into the

I " shuttle so that the locating pin fits into thelocating groove.

!7. a. Replace the retainer aligning the twolatch springs of the shuttle with the

_ cut-out portions of the retainer.b. Turn the retainer clockwise while hold-

ing the hand wheel, until it is secured bythe two latch springs.

8. Replace the bobbin case.

Locatinggroove

Locatingpin

Latch

\Bobbincase

/

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

lib

Shuttle Bobbin case/holder

Retainer

Fig. 3

55

8. CHECK CHART FOR PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS

Your sewing machine is a precisioninstrument, designed to give you many yearsof troublefree sewing with minumum

56

maintenance. If you have any performanceproblem, check the list below and you'll beable to solve the problem yourself.

GENERAL PROBLEMS

Machine does not sew.*Hand wheel or clutch knob is not returned tostitching position. - Push in or tighten clutch(see page 10).

*Power line cord is not connected. -- Checkplug.

*Power/light switch turned off, -- Turn on theswitch.

Machine jams/knocks.*Thread is caught in shuttle. -- Clean shuttle(see page 55),

*Needle is damaged. -- Replace needle (seepage 13).

Fabric does not move.

*Presser foot not lowered. - Lower presserfoot.

*Stitch length control is set at 0. -- Set it at 24to 6.

*Feed cover plate is attached. - Remove feedcover plate.

*Thread is knotted under fabric.

STITCHING PROBLEMS

Machine skips stitches.*Needle size is not correct for thread and fabric,

-- See page 14.*Fabric is a certain knit or synthetic. - Use

"Q NEEDLE" TMand "Q FOOT"TM.*Needle is bent or blunt. -- Replace needle

(see page 13).*Needle is not all the way up into needle clamp.

- See page 13.*Top thread tension is too tight. -- Decreasetop thread tension.

*Machine is not threaded correctly. - Seepage 12 and 15.

*Thread is caught in shuttle, -- Clean shuttle(see page 55).

Stitches are irregular.*Needle size is not correct for thread and fabric.

-- See page 14.*Machine is not threaded correctly. - See

page 12 and 15.*Top thread tension is too loose. - Increasetop thread tension.

*Fabric is being pulled or pushed againstmachine feeding action. -- Guide it gently.

*Bobbin has not been wound evenly, - Rewindbobbin.

*There are nicks or burrs at needle plateopening. - Replace needle plate or smoothburrs with extra fine Emory cloth.

Needle breaks.

*Fabric is being pulled or pushed againstmachine feeding action. - Guide it gently.

*Needle size is not correct for thread and fabric.-- See page 14.

*Needle is not all the way up into the needleclamp (see page 13).

*Presser foot holder is not fastened securely.- Retighten presser foot thumb screw. "_lhlI\ \\

THREAD PROBLEMSThread bunches.

*Top and bobbin threads are not drawn backunder presser foot before star,ring seam,- Draw both threads back under presser footabout 4 inches and hold until a few stitchesare formed.

Needle thread breaks.*Machine is started too fast. - Start to stitch ata slow speed.

*Machine is not threaded Correctly. - Seepage 15.

*Top thread tension is too tight. - Decreasetop thread tension.

*Needle size not correct for thread and fabric.-- See page 14.

*Eye of needle has sharp edges. - Replaceneedle.

*There are nicks or burrs at needle plateopening. - Replace needle plate or smoothburrs with extra fine Emory cloth.

Bobbin thread breaks.*Bobbin case is not threaded correctly. -- Seepage 12.

*Lint accumulates in bobbin case or shuttle.- Remove lint (see page 55).

Fabric puckers.*Top and bobbin thread tensions are too tight.

-- Adjust thread tensions (see page 17).*Two different sizes or types of thread are used.

- Use same size and types of thread on topand in bobbin.

*Needle is bent or blunt. - Replace needle.*Stitch length is too long for sheer or soft fabric.

-- Shorten stitch length or use underlay oftissue paper.

*Presser foot holder is not fastened securely.- Retighten presser foot thumb screw.

\

57

SEWING MACHINE

Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine,should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contactany Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co.Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call orvisit.

The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown onyour nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine.See page 3 for location.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THEFOLLOWING INFORMATION •

*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will beelectronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts DistributionCenter for handling.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL 60684 U.S.A.

S- 158 Part No. 60279 6/91

swa/rs · *ultra-stitch- helps make uniform stretch stitches and ... kenmore machine, ... *insert...

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