ISSUE 79 29

A DV E N T U R E

GETTING UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH WILD

ANIMALS IS ALWAYS A THRILL AND A PRIVILEGE, BUT

SNORKELLING WITH PLAYFUL DOLPHINS IN MOZAMBIQUE

HAS A CERTAIN KIND OF MAGIC

B Y F I O N A M C I N T O S H

he dolphins were circling around us, rhythmically rising out to breathe

then gracefully arching back down. Suddenly a youngster leapt out of the water, performed a somersault and landed with a splash. We marine visitors looked at each other through our masks, our eyes shining in silent applause.

The sea was warm and a shade of azure that you’d normally only see in glossy adverts for idyllic beach escapes. There we were, breathing through our snorkels, gazing into the eyes of one of the world’s cutest mammals as we floated gently in the current. It was a moment that I won’t soon forget.

We were on one of the newly launched dolphin safaris from Ibo Island, a tropical island in northern Mozambique’s Quirimbas Archipelago. Lorrayne Gaymer, instructor and marine conservationist at Ibo Island Lodge, and her team have created a sustainable, eco-friendly programme based on a code of practice developed at the long-established Dolphin Centre in Ponta do Ouro in southern Mozambique. This allows guests the incredible opportunity to responsibly interact with wild dolphins in their natural environment.

The strict code of conduct was spelled out at the briefing. ‘Dolphins are very inquisitive, and generally approach us when we enter the channel between Ibo and its neighbour Matemo Island,’ explained Kissinger Manyepa, our guide. ‘If they stay around the boat then we’ll don masks and snorkels and slip into the water with them. If the dolphins are comfortable, they’ll stick around. If not we’ll leave them be, so please don’t try to swim after them. And obviously, if they do come close, don’t touch.’

‘Some days, when they are feeding, for example, the dolphins choose not to interact,’ he continued, carefully managing our expectations. We were holding thumbs.

TFRIEND

SWIM WITH A(FINNED)

A DV E N T U R E

ISSUE 79 31

STAY H E R E The self-catering Kaya

Kweru Beach Chalets are perfectly situated on the point at Ponta do Ouro. They’re comfortable, homely, and offer stunning sea views. From R400 for a two-person chalet per night. 012 348 2690, reservations@ponta.co.za, pontadoouro.co.za/kayakwerubeachcamp

Ponta Beach Camps is an affordable, family beach resort directly on Ponta’s main beach. Four-sleeper chalet from R1 800. 011 648 9648, info@moz.travel, pontabeachcamps.co.za

The luxurious Ibo Island Lodge is right on the waterfront. R2 595 per person sharing. 021 785 2657, enquiries@iboisland.com, iboisland.com

K N OW TH I S Dolphins are seen year

round. Sightings of humpback whales and their calves are generally the best from August to early November.

Combine a Dolphin Encountour from Ponta do Ouro with Mozamwild’s day safari into the Maputo Special Reserve. Elephants and giraffe are among the big game likely to be sighted. facebook.com/mozamwild

Ibo Island Lodge dolphin safaris: ±R1 200. 021 785 2657, enquiries@iboisland.com, iboisland.com

Dolphin Encountours: +258 84 330 3859 (Mozambique) or 079 528 8400, dolphinencountours.org

Gear: The water is warm – even in winter – so wetsuits aren’t really necessary. Wearing Lycra leggings and a rash vest helps protect against stingers such as jelly fish and blue bottles.

Boarding a romantic traditional dhow, we gazed back at Ibo’s impressive old fortifications as we sailed around the island to its northern tip. Once a major Arab and Portuguese trading centre, Ibo is rich in history and culture, so our week-long holiday was designed to combine cultural activities with diving and other water sports. We learnt more about the island’s history and inhabitants as we sailed slowly past the grand, imposing old fort of São João Baptista – built by the Portuguese in 1754 – and the dilapidated lighthouse, into a shallow channel. Excited, we scanned its sandy bottom for signs of life. A turtle broke the surface nearby, its head popping up like a periscope, a large ray cruised gracefully below the boat and colourful fish flitted around a pristine coral reef as we cruised over it. But the dolphins were elusive. My heart sank.

‘There,’ pointed the skipper. A couple of bottlenose dolphins were surfing the bow wave, their white undersides glinting in the sun. As he dropped the sails we spotted a huge pod less than a hundred metres off the port side of the boat. ‘They look pretty settled to me,’ smiled Kissinger. ‘Grab your gear, then slide into the water gently so as not to scare them off.’ We did as instructed, finning gently away from the dhow then scanning the blue ocean. Ever curious, the dolphins came in closer, displaying incredible bursts of acceleration as they sped underneath us. We lingered for over an hour, climbing back on to the boat when we needed a break. Watching the action from the raised vantage of the dhow was amazing but it paled in comparison to the excitement of being in the water, listening to the squeaking of the playful marine mammals. Sometimes it seemed as if they were smiling as they approached within metres of us, then shot away. We were certainly all smiles when we returned to the dive centre.

It was the second time I’d had the privilege of intimate dolphin encounters, my love affair with dolphins having started when I signed up for a three-day Dolphin Encountour in southern Mozambique. Conducted by passionate conservationist, Angie Gullan, founder of the Dolphin Encountours Research Center, the inspiring programme includes three sunrise launches out into the bay, a basic introduction on snorkelling technique, interesting background on the various types of dolphin found in the waters off Mozambique, their behaviour, habitats and conservation and, importantly, the DOLPHINCARE Code of Conduct.

Accompanied by researchers, we snorkelled with three types of dolphin species (bottlenose,

Indo-Pacific humpback and, to great excitement, the much less-frequently seen little spinner dolphins), and also saw humpback whales on every launch. Back on shore by mid-morning, we spent the rest of our days at the beach, exploring the village, snorkelling and scuba diving on Ponta’s amazing coral reefs and game viewing in the Maputo Special Reserve.

Angie has spent the past two decades nurturing a relationship with wild dolphins and creating a safe space for intimate encounters to take place, while contributing to their well-being. The code of conduct that she and her colleagues have developed has become the blueprint for sustainable dolphin encounters elsewhere in Mozambique. ‘We are happiest when we are out in the field, checking in on our finned friends, and we’re deeply committed to our role in protecting the environment of the gregarious population of dolphins, affectionately called the Dolphins of Ponta, who found home in the coastal shallows of the Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve,’ she explained. ‘We feel that a close and moving experience with dolphins and whales in their own environment is the best way to conserve them for future generations.’

And after watching the awe and delight of every other guest that I’ve shared dolphin encounters with, I’m sure she’s right. Swimming with wild dolphins is an unbelievable privilege, and so much fun. And for South Africans, Mozambique’s affordable rates as well as well-priced accommodation make it well worth crossing the border. PH

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