TEchnIcaL TEXTILES SWISS InnovaTIonS aS SoLuTIonS To gLobaL chaLLEngES

SWISS TEXTILESTextilverband Schweiz, Fédération textile suisse, Swiss textile federation

Beethovenstrasse 20, P.O. Box. 2900, CH-8022 Zürich T + 41 44 289 79 79, F + 41 44 289 79 80 zuerich@swisstextiles.ch, www.swisstextiles.ch

Fürstenlandstrasse 142, P.O. Box. 352, CH-9014 St. Gallen T + 41 71 274 90 90, F + 41 71 274 91 00 stgallen@swisstextiles.ch, www.swisstextiles.ch

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2 Editorial

3 Foreword by Federal Councillor Johann N. Schneider-Ammann

4 Technical textilesThe advantages of textiles versus other materials

12 HealthcareQuality medical care

16 Product personalisationMeeting individual requirements

22 MobilitySafe and efficient mobility

26 SustainabilityProtection of resources

30 National and international cooperationInnovation through networking

2 editorial

In the course of the past few decades, the Swiss textiles and clothing industry has evolved into a globally integrated workplace. Re‑ search and development activities are carried out at one location, management and financing at another, and manufacturing at several. Today, entrepreneurs in this industry primarily focus on niche markets, and offer specialised products, for example in the fashion segment, including high‑quality embroidery or fabrics for haute couture; in the household textiles segment, with products that meet high demands in terms of function and design; or in the area of technical textiles, in which high‑tech products made of textile materials are utilised in a broad variety of applications. A large number of Swiss companies have been in business for well over a century. They have repeatedly succeeded in adapting themselves to new developments and markets, as well as in playing a pioneering role by utilising tried‑and‑tested technologies for new applications. The aim of this brochure is to provide an insight into the diversity of applications and the innovative strength of the Swiss textiles and clothing industry. It draws attention to the challenges that have to be faced, as well as to ways in which they can be overcome with the aid of developments by our member companies. In our view, there is no doubt that the importance of technical textiles will continue to grow in the future. As an industry association, we are strongly committed to networking our members with leading natio‑ nal and international research partners, as well as with other sectors. With our support, members of Swiss Textiles will be presenting their products to international trade visitors at the 2015 Techtextil in Frankfurt, the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and non‑woven materials.We are also committed to ensuring that the economic policy envi‑ronment in Switzerland provides the best possible conditions for our members to remain internationally successful. ×

SwiSS innovationS for the global market

Andreas Sallmann Chairman

Peter FlückigerDirector

3Foreword

Switzerland is one of the world’s most innovative nations. This is largely attributable to our unique mix of academic and professional education, together with the existence of a research and develop‑ ment climate that is characterised by autonomy and excellence, and successful interaction between major corporations and small and medium‑sized companies. Innovation is particularly important in order for small and medium‑ sized companies to remain internationally competitive. Other crucial factors include the ability to react swiftly, a high degree of flexibility and a strong focus on customer service. Every day these companies have to prove themselves on the market and take the needs of their clientele into account. In this way they are able to quickly bring about improvements to their products and processes. The Swiss textiles and clothing industry is a prime example of innovative activity in our country. As Switzerland’s oldest, and once largest, industry, it has undergone a major transformation over the course of time, and has successfully adapted itself to the chang‑ing global conditions. As in the past, the typical characteristics of “Swissness” – quality awareness, reliability, punctuality and precision – continue to apply within the industry, which embodies companies that have been successfully operating on the market for decades and will continue to hold their own in the face of international compe‑ tition in the future. And it is precisely in the area of technical textiles, which is one of our most important growth markets, that Swiss companies will be able to offer solutions to global challenges.In this connection, the already existing cooperation between business and science is a major factor. In Switzerland there are many highly creative individuals who not only come up with new ideas, but also go on to implement them as entrepreneurs – independently, at their own risk and in most cases using their own capital. This calls for open‑ mindedness, as well as perseverance and patience. I wish all the companies in Switzerland’s textiles and clothing industry the neces‑sary courage and freedom: they are making a valuable contribution towards our country’s competitiveness. ×

Strengthening our competitive capacity through high-quality education and reSearch

Johann N. Schneider‑Ammann Federal Councillor

4 technical textiles

the advan- tageS of textileS verSuS other materialSTextiles are omnipresent in our daily lives. It is often the case that we are entirely unaware of the functions they perform and that they are used in an extremely broad variety of applications.

—Large surface, low volumeTextiles have a very large surface area and a rela‑tively low volume and mass. This renders them suitable for use as cover material for the protection of monuments, for example, for slowing down glacial melting, or as a material for housing plants on roofs and facades of houses in towns and cities. This unique ratio of surface area to volume makes textiles ideal for use both on and in the body.—Flexible structure, high degree of porosityThe structure and porosity of textiles can be precisely specified so that they can be used as the material for accommodating cell cultures for the cultivation of artificial organs. Our muscles and tendons, as well as our skin, consist of natural fibres – and it is clear that fibres and tex‑tiles will play an increasingly important role in the field of regenerative medicine.—Chemically modifiableTextiles can be chemically modified in order to make them perform new functions. For example, fragrances or medicaments can be integrated into them. As a result of this kind of refinement, textiles can also be rendered “smart”: with the aid of metal coating, a fibre can be turned into a sensor, or a t‑shirt into a monitoring device that can, for example, warn a fire fighter when the tem‑perature is too high. In hospitals and aged care services, textiles will become an important aid to enhancing the quality of life of patients. Textiles with integrated sensors will be used in a variety of areas of everyday life, for example in items of furniture or buildings, and will therefore play a significant role in the “Internet of things”.—Unlimited potential applicationsTextiles are light, thin, flexible, highly porous, tear‑resistant, mouldable yet dimensionally stable, re‑processable and multifunctional: no other material has such diverse properties. It is by no means surprising that one of the first practical applications of nanotechnology was in the area of

—Easily combinableTextiles can be manufactured in an enormous variety of forms and colours. They consist of natural or artificial fibres, but can also be made from metal, glass or ceramics. Textiles can also be com‑bined with practically any other desired materials. For example, products made from fibre‑reinforced plastics are lighter and more rigid than they would be if they were made of steel. They are used for a broad variety of technical applications, for example in the automotive and aerospace indus‑tries, as well as for the manufacture of sports equipment.

5

textiles. With this and other new key technolo‑ gies, textiles are acquiring an ever increasing num‑ber of properties with virtually unlimited potential applications. —Switzerland: innovative and open-mindedSwitzerland enjoys an excellent reputation through‑out the world, and is regularly placed very highly in rankings relating to innovative capacity. Distan‑ ces within the country are short, bureaucracy is minimal, it is ideally located in the heart of Europe, its infrastructure is optimally developed, it offers

a high degree of economic freedom and transparen‑cy, and its outstanding education and research landscape is the perfect breeding ground for inno‑vation. Switzerland’s textiles and clothing indus‑ try is also able to hold its own on the global market thanks to innovations, top quality products and first‑class services. As a result of the outstanding quality they deliver in terms of material, functionali‑ty and design, as well as precision and reliability, textile solutions from Switzerland are sought‑after the world over and enjoy an excellent reputation. ×

light / thin / flexible / highly porouS / tear-reSiStant / mouldable yet dimenSionally Stable / multifunctional

economic freedom / openneSS / outStanding education and reSearch / preciSion / reliability / political Stability

eaSily combinable

flexible Structure, high degree of poroSity

large Surface, low volume

propertieS

characteriStic SwiSS quality

chemically modifiable

6 technical textiles

technical textileS aS driverS of growth

The technical textiles segment is a driver of growth. In the past few years, global sales figures have risen by five percent per annum, and have meanwhile reached around 150 billion US dollars. This trend is set to persist, and Switzerland’s textiles industry is positioning itself as a technological leader thanks to its high innovative capacity.

of sustainable energy production, for example textile facades and flat roofs as sources of en‑ ergy and drinking water. Geographically speaking, the outlook is especially promising in Asia and North America. For example, the Chinese market for technical textiles is posting double‑ digit annual growth rates. In China’s automobile industry alone, the use of technical textiles is expected to almost double from 755 tonnes in 2010 to 1,400 tonnes in 2017. —Export of top quality high-tech productsChina is now the world’s leading producer of techni‑cal textiles, too, accounting for around one‑third of global production. In terms of value, however, the picture for Europe is considerably more favourable. In the struggle against Asian mass production of technologically less demanding technical textiles, smaller businesses have very little chance of hold‑

The importance of technical textiles is often under‑estimated. This is a technology that can be ap‑ plied in a broad variety of sectors, including vehicle construction, medical instruments, heavy indus‑ try and building construction. This means that the products themselves are not always immediately visible to us. It is estimated that the global market for tech‑ nical textiles is currently worth around 150 billion US dollars, and if we include non‑wovens and fibrous composite materials, this figure rises to above 250 billion. —Solutions to future challengesDemand for technical textiles will continue to grow. They provide solutions for an ageing society with rising healthcare costs, including textile‑based implants and healing or monitoring products. Technical textiles also provide solutions in the area

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importof technical textiles (CHF)

830 million2013 → 2014 + 5.9 %

exportof technical textiles (CHF)

605 million2013 → 2014 + 8.2 %

Sources: Gherzi, Commerzbank, WTO International Trade Statistics 2013, Techtextil.

ing their own in the future. Instead, the European – and in particular the Swiss – industry has positioned itself at the top of the high‑tech segment. Here, the industry develops, manufactures and exports top quality high‑tech products that are used in niche markets and which set themselves apart thanks to their high level of innovative capacity, functionality, quality and services. In terms of volume, Switzer‑ land exported technical textiles to the value of almost 605 million Swiss francs in 2014 – an increase by 8.2 percent versus the prior year. And in the past few years, the share of technical textiles in Switzer‑land’s overall textile exports has also increased constantly. ×

In thousand tonnes

2011

In million tonnes and billion dollars

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1995 2000 2005 2010 2011 2012 2013 2018 f

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“Switzerland has positioned itself among the leaders in the technical textiles sector.”—Peter Flückiger, Director, Swiss Textiles

global market: development of technical textileS SwiSS textile exportS: proportion of technical textileS

global market: Share of technical textileS

2014, worldwide

Mobile technology 17 %Industrial technology 16 %Building technology 15 %Agro‑technology 12 %Medical technology 10 %Geo‑technology 9 %Sport technology 8 %Production technology 7 %Packaging technology 6 %

areaS of application

EU 16 %

America 18 %India 18 %

China 31 %

Rest of the world 17 %

8 technical textiles

fibre technology Fibres are the source product for textile innovations. A distinc‑ tion is made between natural and chemical fibres. The latter may be synthetic (e.g. acrylic, polyamide, polyester, elastane) or consist of cellulose mole‑ cules (viscose, acetate). With the aid of special coatings, the incorporation of auxiliary materi‑als or the use of fibre cross‑ section structures it is possible to create special properties. High‑performance fibres of this nature offer enormous inno‑ vation potential.

fibrouS compoSite materialS Fibrous composite materials consist of a plastic matrix containing embedded fibres. The advantage of this type of structure is that the material is light yet extremely durable. The market for fibrous composite materials has grown in the past few years, notably as a result of increasing demand in the automotive and aviation sectors, and in the area of wind energy. Developers envisage a great deal of potential for carbon fibre composites, for example, though manufacturers still have some major challenges to contend with regarding automation and processing technology. Three‑ dimensional textile construc‑ tions are already being used for a variety of purposes today, and they offer numerous advantages versus other materials thanks to their low weight and ease of formability.

brief deScriptionS of the variouS technologieSTechnical textiles are developed along the entire value chain encompassing fibres, yarns and fabrics. A high innova‑tion potential is cre‑ ated through chemical or mechanical pro‑ cesses and the ex‑change of know‑how with other sectors.

9

Surface manufacturing These processes involve the production of two‑dimensional or three‑dimensional textiles from yarns using weaving, knit‑ting, twining, etc. Thanks to technological advancements in mechanical engineering, these processes are currently experiencing a boom, because the surface of textile fabrics is greater than that of conven‑tional materials. Finer meshing and digitally controlled manu‑ facturing processes open up new areas of application for knitted and woven fabrics, for example for filtration or in the construc‑tion industry. It is also possible to process a broad variety of materials in this way: for exam‑ple, glass and metal fibres, as well as fibres from maize, can be processed so that the result‑ing textile fabrics can be used for numerous applications.

textile SenSorSThere is a great deal of potential for the use of textiles with sensors or electricity conducting functions in the medical, auto‑motive, sport and fashion sectors. A distinction is made between textile‑based sensors and sensors integrated into textiles. In the case of integrated sensors, elec‑ tronic components such as printed circuit boards and probes are stitched onto the textile or combined with it in another way. Textile‑based sensors represent a major opportunity for inno‑vative development. Here, optical and electronic conducting fibres and coatings are being used as the basis for creating “smart” fabrics.

textile finiShing With the aid of finishing pro‑ cesses, textiles can be given special properties to render them (for example) flame re‑ sistant, antistatic or water resist‑ant. Finishing may involve me‑chanical, thermal or chemical processes. Because the various processes require considerable resources and in many cases the use of chemicals, both the chal‑ lenge and the innovation poten‑tial lie in the need to develop new and alternative procedures and processes for textile finishing.

10 technical textiles

areaS of application

The diversity of textile products is enormous. The Swiss textiles and clothing industry offers numerous innovations and services for unique solutions in the areas of healthcare, product personalisation, mobility and sustainability.

healthcareTextiles for quality medical care

Page 12

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product perSonaliSationTextiles customised to meet individual requirements

Page 16

mobilityTextiles for safe and fast travel

Page 22

SuStainabilityTextiles for the protection of resources

Page 26

12 healthcare

quality medical careLife expectancy is constantly increasing and we are remaining active longer than ever before. Here, healthcare plays a decisive role. Thanks to groundbreaking medical developments and advancements it will be possible to cure ever more diseases and enhance the quality of life. The healthcare system will have to undergo radical changes due to high costs. The elderly and patients suffering from chronic illnesses will be able to remain at home instead of having to receive treatment in hospital.

monitoring and proviSion of medicamentS

Technical textiles offer revolutionary solutions for the healthcare system of the future. With the aid of textile sensors, it is possible for patients to trans ‑ mit health data to doctors via a permanent monitor‑ing device. One of the advantages of textile sen‑ sors consists in the high degree of dermatological compatibility of textile materials, which elec‑ tronic sensors are unable to provide. Attaching conventional measurement electrodes to the skin is time consuming and requires professional personnel. But in the future, by putting on a correspondingly equipped item of clothing, it will be possible to permanently monitor health data and transmit the information directly to a doctor. This means that permanent monitoring will be both possible and affordable. Textiles also repre‑

sent an ideal medium for administering medica‑ments: for example, it is possible to treat wounds by providing the patient with the neces‑ sary substances directly via dressings, which no longer have to be changed daily, and the provi‑ sion of medicaments via injections will become a thing of the past. —Bio-compatible textilesMedical textiles for artificial cartilage, fatty tissue or replacement heart valves are currently un‑dergoing a considerable boom. With fibre‑based structures it is possible to produce artificial muscles, tendons, ligaments and special joints. Textiles are evolving into the base material for the cultivation of “spare body parts” from the patient’s own cells. In various ways, textiles are similar to body tissue, and this is why they are far more compatible with the human organism than other materials. ×

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29 %Proportion of people over the age of 65 living in Europe in 2050.

—Use of personalised medicaments to enhance the effectiveness of therapies and reduce side effects. —Monitoring a patient’s state of health via clothing equipped with sensors in order to record and process data, e.g. vital parameters. —Cultivation and creation of artificial organs on the basis of textile structures. —Increased demand for therapy and care in suitable accommodation. —Textiles with active functions to support (as well as protect) patients.

trendS

Source of data: OECD (2015).

“Textiles are playing an increasingly important role in modern-day medicine. On the one hand, they are able to perform crucial medical services such as intelligent monitoring of body functions and provision of precise doses of medicaments. And on the other hand, they unobtrusively offer a great deal of comfort and are suita-ble for everyday use.”—Professor Dr. Martin Wolf, University Hospital, Zurich

14 healthcare

caffeine for premature babieS

Researchers at the Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology (Empa) have developed a membrane that is activated by UV light and gently administers substances to patients via the skin. This is good news for everyone who is afraid of injections, as well as for premature babies, who will no longer be subjected to the stress of caffeine injections.

For a number of years now, babies who are born prematurely have been ad‑ministered a dose of caffeine to prevent res piratory arrest. The caffeine is either fed into the incubator via a sensor, or has to be injected. In both cases, this means additional stress for these highly sensitive babies. Dosing the caffeine accurately is also a difficult task: the con‑ centration is initially very high, but it then often weak ens very quickly. The ideal solution would be a constant dose over a period of several hours.In a project financed by the Swiss National Science Foundation (SNSF), Empa and the University Hospital of Zurich jointly developed a dressing that doses medica‑ments via an adhesive membrane which can be placed on the skin. It then admin‑isters a constant dose of the desired substance (e.g. caffeine) without the need for an injection. The membrane developed at Empa changes its properties after it has been exposed to UV light. This type of effect is familiar to us from photochromic glasses, for example – here, silver reacts to UV radiation and the lenses darken. In the case of this membrane, however, other light‑sensitive compounds called spiropyrans are used that make it more porous so that the substances flow more smoothly. This function then re‑ mains active for several hours. In the view of the specialists at the University Hospital of Zurich who were involved in its development, this new plaster has strong market potential be‑ cause the dose can be accurately con ‑ trolled and the requirements can be readily adapted. However, it will probably be some time before patients are able to benefit from this innovation: the next step is for Empa to look for a partner for the manufacture of the plaster.

Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology (Empa), St. Gallen (www.empa.ch)

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—SenSor textileS for Spot-on meaSurementSForster Rohner’s textile innovations make use of centuries‑old embroidery techniques in order to incorporate sensor zones in textiles. Electronic constructions in textiles can be incorporated into a wide variety of materials. Both large and small pattern segments can be flexibly in tegrated into sensor and interactive products and interconnect‑ed. Sensor textiles have been used in the area of healthcare in a variety of research projects for measuring electrical activity in the brain (electroen‑cephalography, EEG) and heart frequency (electro‑cardiography, ECG). The soft, pliable sensor con‑structions are a key factor for developing suitable body‑fitting solutions that have the potential to yield new and highly accurate measurement results.

Forster Rohner AG, St. Gallen, www.forsterrohner.com

—braided microStructureS aS implantSIn the past few years, major success‑es have been achieved in the de‑velopment of minimally invasive (key‑hole) surgery. An ever increasing number of surgeons are favouring this method, partly because it cuts healthcare costs, but also be‑cause the outcome of the surgery is generally better for patients and it also reduces the stress associated with operations. For this purpose, surgeons need instruments and im‑plants that are as small as pos ‑ sible, but which also meet the neces‑sary requirements and are bio‑ compatible. Braided microstructures meet these requirements in full, and can be used for a broad variety of surgical purposes, for example to assist with the healing of torn ten‑dons and ligaments, or to support the treatment of fractures. They are also suitable for use in heart valve operations, as replacement arteries and as micro stents. Both the manu‑facture and the use of such products have to take place in accordance with extremely stringent hygiene reg‑ulations.

Meister & Cie AG, Hasle‑Rüegsau, www.meister‑ag.ch

—highly effective compreSSion StockingSVENOSAN® 5000 is the first medical compression stocking using pure silver yarn. It can help prevent venous disorders, as well as heal them. Silver yarn also has an additional therapeutic effect: the stocking inhibits infection and prevents the for‑mation of odours, and also performs a temperature regulating function.

Swisslastic AG St. Gallen, St. Gallen, www.swisslastic.ch

—textileS for tranSferring SubStanceS into the bodyiLoad® is a specially prepared textile that can absorb emul‑sions, for example for moistur‑ising the skin. When the pre‑pared item of clothing is worn, it transfers the emulsion to the skin so that the desired skin‑care effect can be released. Emulsion can be added to these textiles in the washing machine or manually. The re‑lease of the substance, which is triggered by heat, friction and moisture, takes place con‑stantly over a defined period of time.

Schoeller Textil AG, Sevelen, www.schoeller‑textiles.com

16 Product Personalisation

meeting individual requirementSIn today’s society we are enjoying ever more personal freedoms, and the life of the individual is being characterised by new beginnings and new opportunities. It appears that everyone can constantly redefine the nature of their being. In the consumer goods sector, this trend is becoming increasingly apparent in that demand for mass‑produced items is rapidly declining in favour of personalised and unique products.

protection and comfort for work and leiSure

In the clothing industry, textiles represent an ideal opportunity for expressing individualisation. Consumers can use clothing as a means of express‑ing their individuality and setting themselves apart from the crowd, and customised functions and designs help them accomplish this. New materials containing additional “smart” functions are now being brought onto the market. Clothing is becoming closer to nature, more functional and more personalised. Textiles also offer a great deal of potential with respect to the production of protective layers and clothing. For example, fire fighters wear flame retardant and heat insulating clothing produced by Swiss manufacturers. In the sports equipment segment, ultra‑thin materials protect cyclists and downhill skiers, for example, yet the products are so light that they also offer a high degree of comfort.

—Functional clothing and furnishings This trend is set to persist: outer clothing will incorporate high‑tech devices that light up, commu‑nicate, store energy or monitor the rhythm of life. This means that entirely new technologies for personalised production at the point of sale will be required, as well as for cleaning and recycling. “Smart” clothing actively supports the perfor‑ mance and body functions of those who wear it. In the household, innovative textiles will be used for producing a comfortable and individually adjustable interior atmosphere. Thanks to digi‑ tal applications, it will be possible to manufacture made‑to‑measure, personalised products less expensively, and customers will be able to have their say at all stages of production. Clothing “on demand” will become a matter of course. ×

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—Use of new digitally controlled production processes.—Clothing will become “smart” thanks to digital technologies.—The coating of textiles will be further developed so that it will be possible to incorporate a high degree of personalised functionality.—Mass production will make way for personalised products.

trendS

“My expeditions place extremely high demands on the body and the mind, as well as on materials. The equipment for my next North Pole expedition in 2016/2017 has to be light, offer the highest possible degree of reliability as well as maximum comfort during rest periods, and function faultlessly even at extremely low temperatures.” —Evelyne Binsack, mountain guide, adventurer and author

74 %of the Swiss population between the ages of 15 and 74 participate in sporting activities.

Source of data: Swiss Federal Office for Sport (2014).

18 Product Personalisation

revolutionary outdoor equipment

Within the framework of a Commission for Tech‑ no logy and Innovation (CTI) project, Polarmond AG joined forces with the Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology (Empa), the Institute for Product Design and Development (IPEK) at the College of Science and Technology, Rapperswil (HSR) and the Swiss Textile College (STF) to develop the prototype of the world’s first self‑heating “All‑in‑One” bivouac tent with inte‑ rior temperature control.

The ultralight “All‑in‑One” bivouac (patent pending) combines the functions of the three conventional models: bivouac, sleep‑ing bag and thermal mat. The Polarmond® bivouac tent is suitable for use at tem‑peratures ranging from minus 30 to plus 25° C. Within this range, the interior temperature can be kept at a constant, comfortable level through manual adjust‑ ment. The body heat emitted by the occupant rapidly heats the fully thermally insulated interior. If the outside temperature rises, the interior temperature can be manually regulated with the aid of adjustable shut‑ ters that let in fresh air and thus evenly cool the interior. This means that perspir‑ing, which is a fundamental problem with sleeping bags when the temperature rises, is a thing of the past. Thanks to the use of impervious textiles in the interior, moisture is no longer able to penetrate into the insulating layers. In this regard, Polarmond® products offer 100 percent loss‑free insulation – another major advantage in comparison with conventional sleeping bags at temperatures below freezing. The moisture emitted by the body, clothing and footwear is ab‑ sorbed via a multiple‑layered insulating inlet, where it can condense. The accumu‑lated condensate can be monitored and subsequently discharged to the exterior. Better performance thanks to optimal rest – the bivouac also offers “Nordic sleeping comfort”: complete freedom of movement of the body across the entire interior width of the tent. The fact that the “All‑in‑One” is ultra‑lightweight also means that users can conserve energy. It is expected to be brought onto the market in the first quarter of 2016.

Design study for the alpha prototype

“All‑in‑One” bivouac Sleeping bag and thermal mat

“All‑in‑One” tent

Polarmond AG, St. Gallen, www.polarmond.ch Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology (Empa), St. Gallen, www.empa.ch College of Science and Technology (HSR), Rapperswil, www.hsr.ch Swiss Textile College (STF), Zurich, www.textilfachschule.ch

Modular equipment

19

—protection againSt biological and chemical influenceSA special Nomex yarn can be twisted and processed so that a textile fabric is produced to which an active carbon coating is added. Together with other fabrics, this is used for the production of protective clothing for occupa‑tional safety and use by defence personnel. It protects them against biological and chemical influences.

E. Schellenberg Textildruck AG, Fehraltorf, www.estextildruck.ch

—functional textileS for Space travelIn May 2014, a rocket with German ESA astro‑naut Alexander Gerst as a passenger lifted off from the space port in Kazakhstan destined for the International Space Station (ISS). The capsule’s cargo included functional textiles from Schoeller Textil AG. During the six‑month mission, within the scope of a project called “Spacetex” a variety of studies were carried out into the physiology of clothing in gravity‑free conditions, with the aim of examining the interaction between the body, clothing and climate. The resulting data are to be used for optimising the clothing of astronauts (for example, to identify methods of textile care using less water) during future sojourns in space, as well as on long‑term missions such as the planned journey to Mars in 2030. The findings are also to be used for developing other products and optimising textiles.

Schoeller Textil AG, Sevelen, www.schoeller‑textiles.com www.spacetex‑project.de

On 28 May 2014, German ESA astronaut Alexander Gerst lifted off from the space port in Baikonur, Kazakhstan, in a Soyuz rocket bound for the International Space Station (ISS). © NASA

20 Product Personalisation

—clothing to protect againSt fireRailway personnel, police officers, electricians, etc., need to be optimally protected against fire and electric current, and at the same time feel comfortable in their protective clothing. pyroshell™ fabrics offer per‑manent flame protection on synthetic materials, are breathable, tear‑resistant, abrasion‑resistant, light‑weight, elastic and easy to look after. pyroshell™ is produced in accordance with bluesign®, the most strin‑gent global standard relating to maximum resource productivity in terms of environmental protection, public health and safety.

Schoeller Textil AG, Sevelen, www.schoeller‑textiles.com

—light-emitting textileSFor the first time in the world, a procedure has been developed for integrating active lighting into textiles while preserving the fabric’s washing and draping properties. It is called “e‑broidery”® and was developed and brought onto the market by Forster Rohner Textile Innovations. Here, sequin‑sized LEDs and a specially developed conducting thread are integrated as designs into the fabric. In 2013, one of the products developed within the framework of a project supported by the Commission for Technology and Innovation (CTI) in cooperation with the University of Lucerne School of Art and Design concerns a collection of curtains that was brought onto the market by Création Baumann (Langenthal) under the name “eLumino”. In Paris in March 2014, Akris presented the world’s first “prêt‑à‑porter” creations based on “e‑broidery”® technology. The most recent development based on “e‑broidery”® technology concerns a foldable and drapable light‑emitting product from the Hamburg‑based start‑up company, Carpetlight, that is intended for professional appli‑cations in the areas of film and television. These developments are an indication of the diversity of applications for this groundbreaking technology from Forster Rohner Textile Innovations.

Forster Rohner AG, St. Gallen, www.forsterrohner.com Akris, St. Gallen, www.akris.ch Création Baumann AG, Langenthal, www.creationbaumann.com Lucerne School of Art and Design, Lucerne, www.hslu.ch Carpetlight GmbH, Hamburg, www.carpetlight.com

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—colourS you can “touch”Fashion is by nature short‑lived and is constantly in search of the new and the unprecedented, but also the expressive and the memorable. The University of Lucerne School of Art and Design is working together with industry partners to develop a new technology that will redefine dyes as well as the way in which they are applied. The aim is to enable the automated application and large‑ scale production of raised, glittering, lacquer‑like or foaming substances for the first time. Creating this type of fabric is aesthetically demanding and endows materials with a sense of the tactile.

Lucerne School of Art and Design, Lucerne, www.hslu.ch

—JeanS that Sit perfectlyA team of young technicians and fashion designers set themselves the goal of producing the perfect pair of jeans, that combines style and comfort with a personalised touch. Selfnation, a spin‑off from the Federal Institute of Tech‑nology, came up with a special algorithm that can be used for calculating a per‑ sonalised pattern for each individual consumer, and automatically tailors it. All customers have to do is select a jeans model on the website and indicate their body mass. A 3‑D model of the lower part of the body is then generated within seconds so that they can see how the jeans will look on their body. If everything is OK, they can then place the order, and 14 days later the jeans made in Switzerland or Germany will be delivered directly to their door. Self‑ nation already has around 2,000 c ustomers on its books after just one year.

Selfnation, RealLook AG, Zurich, Berlin, www.selfnation.com

—light until you fall aSleep“Let it glow” is a material that glows without the need for electricity. A fluorescent thread is woven into a pleated fabric that can be used for making curtains, for example, which are recharged during the day and light up at night. The lighting effect lasts for a few hours: this means that curtains in a bedroom, for example, provide light until you fall asleep.

Jenny Fabrics AG, Ziegelbrücke, www.jenny‑fabrics.ch

22 Mobility

Safe and efficient mobilityMobility is an integral part of modern‑day life. The demand for unlimited movement is constantly increasing. The challenge now is not to travel less, but to do so more smartly.

the changing face of mobility Two developments are ensuring that mobility in its current form will change in the future: the first is the digitisation revolution, and the second is the increasing awareness of the scarcity of resources. In the past, mobility has primarily taken the form of individual motorised transport, with everyone using their car to go where they wish, whenever they wish. In the future, however, use of individual means of transport will be reduced. It is only when we are already on our way that we will decide which is the most suitable transport option. Time‑ tables will be called up spontaneously and the decision to change vehicles will be made according to the traffic situation. Traffic flows need to be intelligently controlled and coordinated, especially in highly congested urban centres. Together with buses, trains and aircraft, forms of transport provided by mobility sharing organisations are now an integral part of a networked traffic manage‑ment concept. And textiles are taking these changes into account. Functional textiles make travel more comfortable for everyone. Surfaces can be lit up or seats can be heated thanks to the integration of specific functions. Here, the thread

is used as a sensor equipped with electronic functions that can be activated as required, e.g. for lighting up, heating, cooling, or generating and storing energy. Technical textiles improve the hygiene and stability of seat surfaces, which is essential in means of transport in which there is a frequent change of users. And traffic safety can be enhanced thanks to the permanent moni‑toring of users via the seat surfaces. —Sustainable mobility Future mobility has to conserve resources and be environmentally compatible, and this poses a major challenge in terms of utilised materials. To assure safe mobility they need to be strong, but they also need to be light in order to enable the use of solar and hydrogen drive concepts. And textiles meet these requirements. Light textile construction, whether for an aircraft or a car, protects resour‑ ces. Vehicles whose bodies are made of extremely strong fibre composites consume less fuel, produce lower exhaust emissions and thus contrib‑ute towards the reduction of CO2 levels. Resources can be used more efficiently by integrating renewa‑ble raw materials and through more efficient production and recycling processes. ×

23

—Comprehensive mobility and traffic control concepts will network the various forms of transport and traffic flows (smart traffic, smart mobility). —To a large extent, means of transport will be hired as needed. —Mobility data will be used in order to optimally organise traffic, parking management and the capacity of charging stations. —Monitoring passenger behaviour using smart textiles will enhance traffic safety. —Continued development of comfort, technical features, design and ambience, decoration, interior and luggage compartment cladding.

trendS

Source of data: Swiss Federal Statistical Office, Federal Office for Spatial Development (2010).

20,848 kmAverage distance travelled by each resident of Switzerland at home and abroad in 2010.

“In the field of air travel, aircraft weight strongly influences costs and environmental pollution. Innovative textiles help reduce weight in the interior of an aircraft and simultaneously enhance travel comfort.”—Harry Hohmeister, CEO, Swiss International Air Lines

24 Mobility

ultralight textileS for formula 1

Textiles are characterised by lightness as well as stability, and are therefore highly suitable for numer‑ous applications in motor racing, aviation and space travel. In the past few years, Swiss company Cortex Hümbelin AG, which was established in 1924, has moved away from its original core busi‑ness – woven products – to become a manu‑ facturer of high‑tech textiles.

For almost 15 years, Cortex Hümbelin AG has been manufacturing textiles for Formula 1 at its two production sites in Rupperswil and Niederlenz. It began by producing wheel‑retaining harnesses, which in the event of a crash prevent the wheels from separating from the vehi‑ cle and thus endangering drivers, track marshals and spectators. This was fol ‑ lowed by the development of protective fabrics to prevent objects from penetrat‑ing into the cooler system. In recent years, Cortex has also been manufacturing

seatbelts for drivers. Now, after several years of research and development, it has brought its latest product for use in the field of motor racing to the prototype stage: textile fuel tanks. The geometry of fuel tanks for Formula 1 cars is extremely complex, because every millimetre of space within the chassis has to be fully utilised, and in motor racing, every single gram counts. An extremely light and flexible material with the necessary coating is therefore the ideal solution here. Light fuel tanks and harnesses are also essential in the field of space travel. Technology developed by Cortex is used for fastening loads in rockets supplying the International Space Station. All harnesses and fabrics produced by Cortex Hümbelin AG meet extreme demands on tensile strength, tear‑resistance and energy absorption capacity. The decisive factors here are extremely light weight and a high degree of resistance to temper‑ atures and aggressive substances such as fuels and lubricants.

Cortex Hümbelin AG, Rupperswil, www.cortexhuembelin.com

25

—textileS that make aircraft lighterSeat covers and carpets are intended to make things more comfortable for passengers and have to meet high requirements in terms of durability and design. Textiles used in aircraft, however, have to meet one requirement in particular: to make the aircraft lighter in order to save fuel. The Pneumatic Comfort System (PCS) developed by Lantal Textiles AG, Langenthal, is based on cushions filled with air which are adaptable to the passenger’s body shape. Air is used instead of foam, and this contributes significantly towards the reduction of the interior weight of an aircraft. The cushions are also more hygienic than foam. This innovative technology was developed by Lantal for business and first class seats, for use in mat‑tresses in private jets and the rest facilities used by crews, as well as for premium economy seats. PCS is now being used by many of the world’s leading airlines and in the Solar Impulse cockpit.

Lantal Textiles AG, Langenthal, www.lantal.com

—natural fibreS for vehicle bodieSThe “powerRibs” technology developed by Bcomp AG, Fribourg, is based on the principle of veins beneath a leaf – the surface is strengthened with very little additional weight. Ribs made of flax fibre yarn strengthen thin‑walled structures by a factor of three. This means that fibre compos‑ ites can be installed more easily and less expen‑sively. In addition, the cushioning properties are increased by up to 250 percent and the tech‑nology promotes sustainability in that the utilised material is renewable. Together with partners in the process technology sector, Bcomp AG has developed concepts for the production of com‑ponents equipped with “powerRibs”. A sophisticat‑ed thermoplastic variant forms the basis for the construction of interior fittings for cars and aircraft, while the thermoset solution can be used for the manufacture of vehicle bodies and aerospace components.

Bcomp AG, Fribourg, www.bcomp.ch

26 sustainability

protection of reSourceSA sustainable lifestyle and the careful use of resources will become a matter of course in the future. There will be no new developments and products that do not take sustainability aspects into account during their manufacture and use. A great deal of importance will be attached to recycling and the avoidance of unnecessary transport, and alternative raw ma‑ terials will be used instead of oil products.

increaSing awareneSS of SuStainable productS

This situation will give rise to new areas of applica‑tion for efficient textiles. These can be produced from renewable materials, and recycling is already possible today. Thanks to the development of new processes, it is possible to minimise the use of chemicals and water for the production of textiles. The properties of textile fabrics open up major utilisation potentials for the filtration of pollutants, for example in the areas of sewage treatment and air purification. And in the area of heat insulation, too, textiles offer the advantage versus other materials that, thanks to their struc‑ture, they have a larger surface and can therefore absorb more heat. This advantage can also be put to use in the area of protection against light and noise pollution, so it is clear that technical textiles can be utilised to protect the environment in numerous ways.

—Vested interest in resource-friendly productionIn the production process itself, ways of mini‑ mising the use of resources in the manufacturing chain have been sought after for decades, and a great deal of potential has been identified in the area of energy consumption. Today, for example, many companies use the waste heat produced by machines in order to heat water or entire apart‑ ment complexes. In addition, thanks to recent re‑ search findings it is now possible to use chemi‑ cals that are neither harmful to the environment nor toxic, yet which perform the desired functions. Various labels now exist that assure consumers of sustainable production, including the Bluesign Standard label, which certifies the sustainable processing of textiles from the raw material stage through to the finished product. ×

27

Source of data: OECD.

—Sustainability will become a matter of course. —Microstructures in textiles will open up highly efficient filtration options. —Material cycles in manufacturing will be closed. —Biodegradable materials will reduce the volume of waste. —New recycling technologies will facilitate a reduction in the consumption of raw materials. —Energy systems will be efficiently integrated into daily life.

trendS

“The potential for increasing energy efficiency, and even for energy recovery, is particularly high in buildings. Textile-based solutions in the areas of insulation and solar technology can make a valuable contribution.”—Walter Steinmann, Director of the Swiss Federal Office of Energy (SFOE)

70 %By 2050, 70 percent of the world’s population will be living in urban centres.

28 sustainability

energy from glaSS

Buildings account for around 40 percent of the country’s energy consumption. So how can they produce their own energy, especially in towns and cities where high‑rise buildings offer little roof space for solar cells?

The solution can be found by integrating solar cells into windowpanes. In this way, buildings constructed with the corresponding cladding will be able to produce almost all their own energy requirement in the future. Swiss company Sefar AG, Thal, is developing and manu‑facturing a new type of fabric structure that may be described as a transparent electrode. This fabric is suitable for the production of dye‑based solar cells, a technology that is being used by a company called glass2energy ag in Villaz‑Saint‑Pierre. The dye sensitised solar cell (or Grätzel cell) developed by this company is integrated into win‑ dowpanes and is able to produce elec‑tricity even at low levels of light incidence and ambient light. glass2energy ag was awarded the “Watt d’Or” prize by the Swiss Federal Office of Energy in 2014.

Sefar AG, Thal, www.sefar.com glass2energy ag, Villaz‑Saint‑Pierre, www.g2e.ch

29

—fully recyclable multifunctional materialSclimatex® is an innovation by Gessner, Swiss legend in modern textile culture. The brand is all about climatising and regenerative prod‑ucts. They are compelling in use and protect resources. The materials used can be separated homogene‑ously and then reused. Due to its exceptional characteristics, the climatex® technology is perfect for use in intelligent applications in which climate issues influence your feeling of well‑being, for ex‑ample in interiors, healthcare, mobility, clothing, footwear.

Gessner AG, Wädenswil, www.gessner.ch, www.climatex.com

—textile inSulation SolutionSWithin the framework of an ongoing project of the Commission for Technolo‑gy and Innovation (CTI), together with industry partners a research team from the University of Lucerne comprising architects, designers and engineers is proposing new solutions for the inte‑ rior insulation of older commercial and industrial buildings and sports cen‑ tres. The focus is on buildings that do not meet today’s requirements in terms of energy efficiency. The team has come up with a solution that combines wrap knitted or woven fabrics containing an insulating material used in the pro‑duction of mineral wool insulation pan‑els. Thanks to its flexible form, it can be adapted to numerous structural designs and is also recyclable. In addi‑tion to offering thermal insulation, this innovative system also has excellent noise insulation and fire protection properties.

Swisstulle AG, Münchwilen, www.swisstulle.ch Lucerne School of Art and Design, Lucerne, www.hslu.ch

—textileS from milkCalida has developed a new product line based on a refined dairy substance, which combines MicroModal and milk fibres. Here, Calida processes an in‑novative combination of fibres obtained from dairy proteins and Lenzing Micro‑Modal®, a purely organic product that is manufactured carbon‑neutrally with the aid of Edelweiss technology. The dairy fibres are obtained directly from milk protein. The MicroModal and dairy fibres are then woven into a yarn on the spin‑ning machines of Hermann Bühler AG. The yarn is subsequently used to pro‑duce the fabric, which is then finished by E. Schellenberg Textildruck AG. The resulting material is soft and smooth, and is thus ideal for people with sensi‑ tive skin. It actively promotes skin mois‑turising and also has a natural odour‑ retarding effect, thus ensuring comfort and a feeling of freshness all day long. The material looks and feels like certain types of silk, is very comfortable to wear, pleasant to touch and has an at‑ tractive sheen. With this product, Calida has brought together three as‑ pects of Swiss tradition: domestic production, innovation and sustaina‑bility.

Calida AG Bodywear, Sursee, www.calida.com Hermann Bühler AG, Sennhof, www.buehleryarn.com E. Schellenberg Textildruck AG, Fehraltorf, www.estextildruck.ch

30 national and international cooPeration

innovation through networkingInnovation is the heart and soul of Switzerland’s textiles and clothing indus‑try. It cannot be planned and does not come about by chance. What it needs is the right framework conditions and an adequate degree of networking. Both these requirements exist in Switzer‑ land and its neighbouring countries, and have enabled Switzerland to remain one of the leading countries in the world for many years in terms of innovative strength and competitive capacity.

of technical colleges, including the two Federal Institutes of Technology (in Zurich and Lausanne). The textiles and clothing industry benefits enor‑mously from the advantages of Switzerland’s dual education system, which offers a perfect com‑bination of theoretical and practical training. —Innovation-friendly background conditions As the life cycles of products grow shorter and ever more emerging countries apply advanced tech‑nologies, the pace of the innovation cycle within Switzerland’s textiles and clothing industry needs to be increased. The high pace of this cycle and the required financial resources represent major challenges for small and medium‑sized com‑ panies in particular. Here the Federal Commission for Technology and Innovation (CTI) supports these companies in a variety of ways. —Promotion of networking Networking is one of the main driving forces behind the innovative capacity of companies. It is often the case that product improvements and innovations arise from customers’ needs, are inspired by other sectors or are based on concepts resulting from basic and applied research. With its Swiss Texnet network, Swiss Textiles unites companies with partners such as the Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology (Empa) in St. Gallen, the College of Science and Tech‑ nology in Rapperswil, the University of Lucerne, Zurich University of Applied Sciences in Wädenswil and the Swiss Textile College. Swiss Texnet is a competence centre that encompasses a broad variety of areas, including materials science, fibre technology, design, mechanical engineering, chemicals and process technology, to cite just a few. Swiss Texnet always welcomes new re‑ search partners. International cooperation is an essential factor. The textile federations and research institutions in Germany, Austria and Switzerland have been working closely together for many years in order to offset the disadvantages of size and cooperate with the most suitable research and business partners. ×

firSt-claSS education Education and research are major pillars for in‑ novation. In the area of technical textiles, although it is a very small country, Switzerland offers out‑ standing facilities in these two fields. Its training and further education options range from basic training courses for qualification as EBA textile practitioners and EFZ textile technologists, through to the Swiss Textile College and a large number

31

EMPASwiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology (Empa): This institution is a component of the Federal Institute of Technology. It focuses on application‑ based research and develop‑ment. In the area of textiles it special‑ ises in materials for the improvement of health and efficiency. Developments arising from its research activities range from biodegradable implant materials and medical textiles, through to functional surfaces.

www.empa.ch

HSLUUniversity of Lucerne School of Art and Design:

This institution carries out research and provides training and further education in the fields of

textile design, trends in fashion and interior design, digital printing design and technology, conceptual

design for smart textiles and experimentation on surfaces for new functional fibres.

www.hslu.ch/design‑kunst

HSRCollege of Science and Technology (HSR), Rapperswil: The Institute for Product Design, Development and Construction (IPEC) at the HSR is of interest to manufacturers and developers of machines for the textiles industry. Other institutes offer specific know‑how, for example in the fields of mechatronics and environmental and energy technology, which can lead to innovative solutions in the textiles and associated industries.

www.hsr.ch

ZHAWZurich University of Applied Sciences

(ZHAW): The Institute for Chemistry and Biochemistry at the ZHAW is an

important partner for issues relating to industrial chemistry, the production of textile auxiliaries and the development

of functional, biological and nano materials.

www.zhaw.ch

STFSwiss Textile College (STF): The STF is the high‑level educational institution for the textiles sector. In addition to its education mandate, it also acts as a project partner for companies in the fields of textile produc‑tion, textile machinery technology, textile refinement, nanotechnology, smart textiles and clothing.

www.textilfachschule.ch

our main partnerS in Switzerland

our partnerS in europe

Euratexwww.euratex.eu

Gesamtverband textil+mode www.textil‑mode.de

Südwesttextilwww.suedwesttextil.de VTB – Verband der Bayerischen

Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie www.vtb‑bayern.de

Forschungskuratorium Textil www.textilforschung.de

Bayern Innovativ www.bayern‑innovativ.de

Allianz Faserverbundwerkstoffe Baden-Württemberg

www.afbw.eu

Smart Textiles Plattform www.texbook.eu

Fachverband der Textil-, Bekleidungs-, Schuh- und Lederindustrie – WKÖwww.wko.at

publiShing detailS and acknowledgementS—The descriptions of companies and products in this brochure reflect a selection of innovative textile products or research results. We wish to thank all companies and research institutions who placed information and images at our disposal. —We would like to offer our special thanks to Hans‑Jürgen Hübner (Schoeller Textil AG), Tina Moor (Lucerne School of Art and Design), René Rossi (Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology, Empa) and Urs Schellenberg (E. Schellenberg Textildruck AG and President of the Commission for Environment and Technology at Swiss Textiles), for their valuable assistance with respect to the content of this brochure.—For further information about the Swiss textiles and clothing industry and members of Swiss Textiles, please visit www.swisstextiles.ch—Overall responsibilityPeter Flückiger—Project management and editingMirjam Matti Gähwiler, Nina Bachmann—Layout and productionWernlis, grafische Gestalter, Zurich and Basel—Image databasesPortrait of Andreas Sallmann: Simon Habegger Portrait of Evelyne Binsack: Bruno PetroniGlacier: Jürg Alean, EglisauOther images: Veer, Photocase, Fotolia, Imago/Mint Images, Imago/Chromorange, Imago/Imagebroker, Imago/Geisser, iStock, Keystone, Depositphotos—English translationKeith Hewlett, Transcripta AG, Zug—PrintingDAZ Druckerei Albisrieden, Zurich—© April 2015, Swiss Textiles

TEchnIcaL TEXTILES SWISS InnovaTIonS aS SoLuTIonS To gLobaL chaLLEngES

SWISS TEXTILESTextilverband Schweiz, Fédération textile suisse, Swiss textile federation

Beethovenstrasse 20, P.O. Box. 2900, CH-8022 Zürich T + 41 44 289 79 79, F + 41 44 289 79 80 info@swisstextiles.ch, www.swisstextiles.ch

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