sy easy-hair-guide

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Easy Guide to Natural Hair Provided by So Yummy Products

www.soyummyproducts.comCopyright 2015

http://www.soyummyproducts.com/

+ 1. Acceptance: Why are you (going) natural?

There are many reasons why people choose to go natural. Consider for a moment, why you chose to go natural. Was it to try something different? Was it for health reasons? Was it to reduce further damage to your hair? Or, were you influenced by someone else? Maybe it was none of the above. Whatever the case may be, congratulations on taking the first step to healthier hair.

On this journey, there are two ways to go natural: transitioning and big chop. ‘Transitioning’ is the process of growing out your natural hair, while slowly clipping the damaged ends until they are all gone. The purpose of transitioning is to retain the length. Damage may be due to heat, color, and/or chemical processing, such as relaxers, etc. ‘Big chop’ is removing all of the damaged ends all at once. You may have seen women who had longer hair, then suddenly they cut it all off into a short afro. This is also known as the TWA, or Teeny, Weeny Afro. The purpose of the big chop is to immediately get rid of the damage in order to avoid dealing with two textures at once—the natural hair and the damaged hair.

The first step on your natural hair journey is deciding to change the current state of your hair. The second step is deciding whether you want to transition or do the big chop.

So Yummy Products Copyright 2015

+2. Discovery

Getting to know your hair…

As your hair grows out, you’ll begin to notice the difference between what you’re used to your hair looking and feeling like and how it actually looks and feels in its natural state. Although you may have an idea of what you want your hair to look and feel like, the reality is your hair is unique to you and part of this journey is accepting it for how it is.


+2. Discovery (con’t)

So, what do you need to know about your natural hair?

A. Density

Density is how closely your hair strands grow on your head (“Hair Density Types”). Your hair can be low/thin, medium or high/thick density. You need to know your hair’s density so you know how much product you need to use on your hair. For example, if you have low/thin density, some products and/or the amount you use, may weigh your hair down. (See figure 1 below.)

Figure 1 “Hair Density.” NaturalNigerian.com. 2015. Web. 6 Apr 2015. So Yummy Products Copyright 2015



B. Porosity

Porosity is the measure of the hair's ability to absorb moisture. This is determined by the condition of the hair's cuticle layer, and can be classified as low, normal, and high. When the cuticle is overly compact and prevents the penetration of moisture, it is considered low porosity. In normal porosity hair, the cuticle is compact and allows moisture to go in without allowing too much moisture to escape. If the hair’s cuticle layer is open, moisture easily flows in and out and it is considered high porosity.


C. So, how can I tell my hair’s porosity?

Since our hair sheds about 50-100 strands per day, we can run our fingers through our hair and find a few loose strands. Once you have collected 2-3 of your strands, grab a clear drinking glass and fill it up about three quarters of the way with room temperature water. Sit the glass down on a table and drop the strands into the glass. Wait around 2-3 minutes to see what the hair does. If it floats on the top, you have low porosity hair, if it floats in the middle, it’s normal, and if it sinks to the bottom, it’s high porosity.


+Discovery (con’t)

D. Texture

Hair texture refers to whether you have curls, waves or coils and the width of those curls, waves or coils. Your hair is unique. For example, you could have loose curls, deep waves, tight coils, any combination of the three or all of the above.


+Discovery (con’t)

Texture (con’t)

No two heads of hair are the same. Knowing your texture will determine how you style your hair. For example, some people may find it difficult to achieve certain styles due to their particular texture. If you have ever watched a tutorial or seen a picture and tried to style your hair like that, only to be disappointed with the end result, it may because of the texture difference between your two hair textures. Although no one hair texture is better than another, learning to work with yours will help you achieve the look you desire.



E. Strand width

Strand width literally refers to how wide your strands are. Your hair strands can be fine, medium, coarse or a combination of any of the three. To find your hair width, take a piece of your hair from a brush or comb and hold it up to the light. If the hair is very wide and easily visible, then you have coarse hair. If it's so thin that you can hardly see it, you have fine hair. If your hair appears neither thin nor coarse, you have medium width hair. (“Hair Width”, Naturallycurly.com) It’s important to know your strand width in order to know how strong your hair is (its elasticity). Hair that is more elastic, such as coarse and medium hair, is not as prone to breakage.


+3. Regimen Building Building your own unique regimen is essential to

the health and manageability of your hair. Your scalp, hair, and how you style it, will determine how you should structure your hair regimen. Your hair regimen will be the way that you properly maintain a healthy head of hair and will consist of cleansing and conditioning regularly.

A. Shampoo

The sole purpose of shampooing is to clarify your hair by removing product buildup, sweat, and debris from your scalp and hair. Shampooing counteracts irritation and clogged pores and helps to prevent issues such as dandruff, fungus and stunted growth.


+3. Regimen Building (con’t)

B. Co-wash

Co-washing is a way to cleanse your hair and scalp using conditioner. However, co-washing does not clarify your hair and scalp. Therefore, it is primarily for styling and manageability purposes because it softens the hair and keeps it moisturized. If you want to thoroughly cleanse, you must shampoo.

C. Conditioning

Conditioning is a way to nourish and soften the hair so it can remain healthy and manageable. A good rule of thumb is to condition regularly for 15 – 30 minutes depending upon your hair’s texture, density and strand width. The more textured, dense and coarse your hair is, the longer your conditioning process should be. Note: this process should not exceed 30 minutes to prevent over-processing.


+3. Regimen Building (con’t)

D. Protein Treatments

Protein treatments are a way to restore your hair’s strength and elasticity, which may have been broken down (i.e. by heat, color, etc.). These treatments should only be done sparingly unless you know damage has occurred.

E. Hot Oil Treatments

Hot oil treatments are used to bring intense nourishment into the hair and scalp and provide a barrier, which can prevent damage. This type of treatment is usually necessary on a quarterly basis.


+3. Regimen Building: Sample Regimens

Profile #1:

Texture: curly

Density: medium

Strand width: coarse

Workout regularly

Shampoo: bi-weekly to monthly

Co-wash: every 3-5 days

Condition: weekly

Hot oil treatment: quarterly

Protein treatment: semi-annually

Profile 2:

Texture: coily

Density: high

Strand width: fine

Straightens hair bi-weekly

Shampoo: bi-weekly

Condition: bi-weekly

Co-wash: weekly

Hot oil treatment: quarterly

Protein treatment: quarterly


+4. Length Retention

To retain length, here are a few tips:

A. Regular trims are essential to preventing irreversible damage. A person should trim every 6-8 weeks to maintain healthy ends.

B. Protective and low-manipulation styling: These styles are ways to keep your hands and hair tools out of your hair anywhere from 3 days to 4 weeks. Some examples of protective styling are extension braids, weaves, extension weaves, wigs and twists. These are good for long-term protection. However, you must be able to cleanse and moisturize your scalp. Low manipulation styles include twist-outs, braid-outs, Bantu knots, up-dos, wash & gos and roller sets. These styles should last anywhere between 3 – 7 days without having use any styling tools. So Yummy Products Copyright 2015

+4. Length Retention (con’t)

C. Detangling

Proper detangling should remove shed hair and tangles without excessive pulling and tugging. You should detangle when your hair feels strongest—either when wet or dry. Finger detangling is the healthiest way to detangle in order to prevent breakage. However, the more textured your hair is, the more difficult it is to detangle. In this case, a wide-tooth comb and/or specialized detangling brush can be effective.

How to detangle:

Start at the ends and carefully move up. This can prevent hair breakage.


+5. Moisturizing

Simply put, moisture means water. The sole purpose of moisturizing is to hydrate your hair from root to tip. Hydration is a way to keep your hair protected from breakage, combat frizz and make your style last longer. A good technique to moisturize your hair is to section it into four (4) to eight (8) depending upon your hair’s density and length. The denser and longer your hair is, the more sections you will need. Apply moisturizer to the first section from tip to root. You can use a hair tool or your fingers to smooth in a downward motion. This way, you can make sure not to create traction and every strand will be moisturized.


+5. Moisturizing (con’t)

A. The most important factor to keep in mind is your own hair’s porosity.

i. If you have low porosity hair, your products should be water based so that the cuticle can open, accept moisture and retain it. However, if your hair cuticle is closed it is difficult for moisture to enter the cuticle. The good news is water temperature can help with porosity issues. Warm water will open the cuticle, while cool water closes it. Once the cuticle is open you can apply your moisturizer. However, there is a limited time frame during which the cuticle will stay open, so this should be done before the hair cools completely. (Tip: using a spray bottle with warm water, steaming with a hair steamer or subjecting the hair to shower steam will open the cuticle without having to submerge the hair with water.)


+5. Moisturizing (con’t)

ii. Normal porosity hair can be properly moisturized by simply applying the moisturizer without having to bother with water temperatures because the cuticle opens and closes normally.

iii. For those with highly porous hair, cool water is a good way to close the cuticle in order to lock that moisture in. (Tip: apply the moisturizer as normal, then spray the hair with cool water or use the cool setting of a blow-dryer to close the cuticle.)


+6. Locs

Locs are a more permanent alternative to wearing your loose natural hair. When starting locs, it is recommended that you seek a professional loctician to determine the best options for your hair. Some hair textures may take longer than others to permanently loc. But keep in mind, locs are neither easier nor more difficult to maintain than loose natural hair. Locs require maintenance such as shampooing, conditioning, re-twisting and styling, along with other treatments in order to stay healthy. If this is the style option for you, keep in mind that this is more of a long-term commitment.


+7. Hair Color

Hair color can be beautiful and give your hair some pizzazz. However, there are some risk factors when it comes to hair color. There are many different types of color processes. A. On the less risky side, there are options such as

temporary, demi-permanent and henna. These types deposit color on your hair without lifting the cuticle layer. But beware, some temporary colors contain alcohol and acid that can be damaging. So, seek a professional for a consultation.

B. For a longer lasting color options, you can use bleach, semi-permanent and permanent color. Bleach lifts the cuticle layer while simultaneously lifting your natural hair color. Semi-permanent and permanent colors lift the cuticle layer while depositing color to your hair. So Yummy Products Copyright 2015

+7. Hair Color (con’t)

With these processes, it is important that you consult a professional to avoid over-processing and to make sure your hair is in the proper condition to color. Gradual coloring is a safer alternative to permanent processing. This option lifts color over time utilizing several different processes to reduce the risk of damage.

Over-processing breaks down the protein bonds in your hair that can ultimately damage the texture, elasticity and strength, which can leave your hair broken and unmanageable. So Yummy Products Copyright 2015

+8. Straightening

Straightening natural hair is a healthier way to achieve a sleek look without using harsh chemicals. There are several ways to achieve your desired look.

When straightening your hair, you have to be careful not to over use heat. The overuse of heat can damage the texture, strength and elasticity of your hair and cause it to break. Your hair has to be healthy before you use heat in order to prevent these issues.

Coarse hair may require more heat to get straight, whereas finer hair may require less heat.


+8. Straightening (con’t)

Tips:A. Heat protectants are a good way to reduce the penetration of heat

applied to your hair so they are essential when heat styling.

B. Using an excessive amount of heat can damage your hair’s cuticle. Cuticle damage compromises your hair texture, which ultimately results in breakage.

C. Use a low to moderate heat setting on your hair dryer and blow dryer, curling iron, and flat iron to prevent reaching high levels of heat. If your heat tool does not regulate temperature it is recommended that you invest in something that has better control of heat.

D. It is recommended that your hair should not reach temperatures above 375 degrees.

E. If your hair is not naturally straight it takes a careful process to achieve your desired look. Without chemicals your hair will not look or behave like someone who has chemically treated hair. Please take that into consideration when heat styling.So Yummy Products Copyright 2015

+9. Damage Prevention

Damage prevention is essential to achieve and maintain a healthy head of hair. There are several ways to prevent damage:

A. Condition regularly to nourish, soften and strengthen your hair, increase manageability and combat breakage.

B. Utilize hot oil and protein treatments to supply your hair with long lasting healthy results.

C. Regular trims can prevent further breakage from slitting up the hair strand and reduce dryness caused by damaged ends. It is very difficult for broken hair to retain moisture, so trim regularly.


+Damage Prevention (con’t)

D. Careful regular detangling with your fingers, wide tooth comb, and/or detangling brush will remove shed hair, increase manageability and prevent knots from forming.

E. Tension styling such as braids, ponytails, and weaves can promote hair loss especially around the perimeter and crown of your head. Make sure you do not pull too tightly to prevent scalp irritation and breakage.

F. Regular cleansing will reduce the risk of scalp irritation and breakage caused by product build-up, sweat, and environmental debris.

G. Protecting your hair with a silk or satin weave scarf or bonnet can reduce the risk of breakage. Make sure you wear protection at night and underneath hats to prevent tugging and dryness from opposing materials.So Yummy Products Copyright 2015

+9. Damage Prevention (con’t)

H. Be gentle with your hair and take your time. Sometimes when we style in a hurry we don’t realize how rough and heavy handed we can be. Hair is fragile, so be careful and gentle with it.

I. Avoid over processing by careful and educated coloring, heat styling and finding a good moisture and protein balance when moisturizing, shampooing and conditioning.

J. Excessive shampooing can leave your hair dry, brittle, and without luster. Your scalp produces natural oils, (some more than others), but the more you cleanse, the more oils it may produce. If you are constantly stripping those natural oils away, the more irritated your scalp can become which may cause dryness to your strands.

The way your hair looks and feels is a good indication of how healthy your hair is. If you need a second opinion, seek a trained professional who specializes in textured hair.


+10. Choosing Products

There are lots of products out there to cater to your hair and scalp needs; however, every product is not created equally. The most important part about choosing products is knowing your hair. Remember that your hair is unique so what works for one person may not work for another.


+10. Choosing Products

Tips for product selection:

A. Knowing your porosity, density, strand width, and texture will determine how your hair will react to certain products.

B. Moisturizers must contain water and nourishing oils. Some moisturizers contain harsh alcohols, synthetic oils and unnecessary fillers that work against and, ultimately, prevent moisture from properly entering the cuticle layer. There are many methods that have been created because the products being used are not properly formulated for your unique hair. Excessive layering of products can clog your hair and produce build-up, which prevents moisture from entering the cuticle and leaving an excess of oil sitting on top of the hair. Also, some moisturizers contain proteins and amino acids that bring strength to your hair. However, unless your hair is lacking strength the use of these ingredients can make your hair too strong and cause hardness, unmanageability and breakage overtime. Finding the perfect product can be an expensive and tiring, so avoid products with an excess of synthetic materials, too many strengthening compounds, and overly oily or watery formulas. Examples of moisturizers are butters, lotions, leave-ins, creams and sprays. Choose what’s best for your unique hair needs. So Yummy Products Copyright 2015

+10. Choosing Products (con’t)

C. The point of shampoo is to cleanse product build up, dirt and debris from your scalp and hair. Choose a shampoo that actually cleanses your hair and does not leave your hair feeling completely dried out or still feeling like it has a film of product on it. If you have to apply oils or conditioners before you shampoo, the product is too harsh for your hair. Find a shampoo with a good cleansing and moisture balance.

D. Conditioning is essential to the condition of your hair. Like moisturizers, some conditioners contain harsh alcohols, synthetic oils and unnecessary fillers, which can work against the proper health of your hair. Many conditioners contain silicones. While silicones are good for creating shine and protect your hair from heat, they also create build-up, which may cause a film and block your hair from being properly nourished. A rule of thumb about finding a conditioner is, if you need to condition longer than 30mins, this is not the product for you. Your hair should feel softer and stronger, and look healthy after the first use.So Yummy Products Copyright 2015


E. Deep treatments should be used if your hair is lacking strength, elasticity, nourishment, and/or is damaged. Unless your hair is broken, deep treatments are not necessary. To find the proper treatment it is recommended that you seek a professional before you decide to diagnose your hair as damaged. Some deep treatments can be harsh and complicate d so you have to follow the directions exactly to prevent over processing. The best way to choose the proper treatment for you is to research the ingredients and what the treatment is created for. If your hair does not mimic the symptoms that the product is recommended for, then do not use it.

F. Oils are a good resource to bring nourishment into the hair strands and scalp. They can feed, protect, stimulate and beautify your hair from root to tip. There are thousands of essential oils out there. However, essential oils are usually of a pure and concentrated nature, so you have to be careful not to over use them to prevent irritation. Carrier oils are used to condition, strengthen and protect your hair. Some oils such as coconut, olive, avocado, and emu oils have molecules small enough to penetrate the hairs cuticle layer. However, unless water is used along with oil, it is NOT a conditioner or moisturizer.



G. Using a heat protectant is essential when heat styling. Although it is called a heat protectant it is really used to create a heat barrier for your hair. But it does not completely protect your hair from heat or your hair simply would not straighten. If your hair is not naturally straight in texture, you may have to use a product with synthetic ingredients such as silicones. Your heat protectant must control heat, so natural oils are not considered heat protectants. Although some oils may not burn at high temperatures, they do not necessarily protect or control your hair from reaching high temperatures.

Overall, in order to make the best choice in purchasing products, you must read the ingredients, and do your own personal research to find what is best for your individual hair. Have fun with your natural hair. After all, no one else has hair like you!So Yummy Products Copyright 2015

+Sources

“Hair Density Types.” Naturallycurly.com. Texture Media Inc., 2015. Web. 6 Apr. 2015.

“Hair Width.” Naturallycurly.com. Texture Media Inc., 2015. Web. 6 Apr. 2015.


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