table of contents 1.1.1 1.1.1.1 1.1 - aamanet.org cim-xx, draft #x, dated x/x/15 page 1-1 •...

Table of Contents

1.1.1 Purpose of the Manual ............................................................................................................................1

1.1.1.1 Scope ..................................................................................................................................................1

1.1.2 Using This Manual ..................................................................................................................................1

1.1.3 Skill and Knowledge Requirements of the Installer ................................................................................2

1.1.4 Responsibility of the Various Trades ......................................................................................................2

1.1.5 Timeliness of Information ........................................................................................................................3

This voluntary specification was developed by representative members of AAMA as advisory information and published as a public service. AAMA disclaims all liability for the use, application or adaptation of materials published herein.

© Copyright 2015 American Architectural Manufacturers Association

1827 Walden Office Square, Suite 550, Schaumburg, IL 60173 Phone: 847/303-5664 Fax: 847/303-5774

E-Mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.aamanet.org

AAMA CIM-XX, DRAFT #X, DATED X/X/15 PAGE 1-I

1.0 Introduction

This standard practice addresses the installation of windows and exterior glass doors (including Hinged and

Sliding Glass Doors) which are installed in commercial buildings. It includes information pertaining to both new

construction and replacement projects.

Important Note: Different types of windows and doors require specific installation techniques. The information

provided in this manual does not supersede installation instructions provided by the manufacturer. Always

consult the manufacturer's instructions and/or detailed shop drawings for information specific to each project.

AAMA Standard Practice for Installation of Windows and Doors in Commercial Buildings

1.1.1 Purpose of the Manual

The specific objectives of this reference manual are to:

Promote consistent, high quality installations in the commercial markets, promoting energy efficiency, decreasing

installation deficiencies, maximizing product performance and minimizing callbacks, thereby lowering the overall

cost to the product manufacturer and building owner;

• Provide employers of installers an additional method of evaluating a potential employee’s knowledge;

• Improve the credibility of practicing installers by verifying the measurement of a specific body of

knowledge;

• Promote installer safety practices.

1.1.1.1 Scope

This Reference Manual addresses windows, exterior sliding glass doors and terrace doors only. Storefront and

curtain wall products, profiles, and/or systems are frequently used in window and door openings, however, these

applications are outside the scope of this Manual. Refer to the AAMA Aluminum Storefront and Entrance Manual

SFM-1-87 and the AAMA Curtain Wall Manual MCWM-1-89 for Guide Specifications and Technical Data

applicable to storefront and curtain wall products, including installation guidelines.

1.1.2 Using This Manual

This manual was developed to provide information regarding the installation of windows and glass doors intended

for use in commercial buildings. The manual provides an overview of information relating to:

• Selecting window and glass door product types and materials

• Product performance testing and labeling

• Performance requirements of windows and doors

• Site inspection

AAMA CIM-XX, DRAFT #X, DATED X/X/15 PAGE 1-1

• Specifications and codes

• Measuring and ordering windows

• Removal and installation of products

• Final cleaning and inspection

•

1.1.3 Skill and Knowledge Requirements of the Installer

This manual assumes that the installer possesses the following basic knowledge and skills:

Basic measuring skills

• Ability to read and understand various construction documents

• An understanding of various building types and construction

• An understanding of the proper use of tools normal to the construction trade

• Awareness of the applicable federal, state and local codes and regulations

• Awareness of OSHA Safety Standards

The designers and writers of this document attempted to include the basic information needed to install windows

in commercial buildings. However, it was impractical to include all information related to each product and its

design options. In the event that an installer has any questions or faces a situation not addressed in these

materials, it is imperative that such uncertainties be resolved through consultation with the responsible parties

before work is begun.

1.1.4 Responsibility of the Various Trades

For the purpose of this manual, a commercial installer is defined as someone who sets, anchors and seals, and/or

applies flashing and/or other accessory devices to windows and/or doors. No differentiation is expressed between

a new construction installer and a replacement (retrofit) installer in this manual.

Various individuals may perform many of the installer’s tasks and become responsible for the completed

installation. As an example, one person may apply flashing and/or accessories, another party could set and

anchor the window and yet another party could apply the building façade and apply the final seal around the

penetrations in the building.

Objectives of this Reference Manual are noted in Paragraph 1.1.1. The Manual is not intended to define any

individual trade’s scope of work, recommend appropriate trade jurisdiction on-site, pre-empt or replace union

training programs or those of affiliated organizations, nor supersede manufacturers’ installation instructions.

Although the installer is responsible for the quality of the work that he/she performs, others (building contractor,

owner/ developer, architect, etc.) are often the "approving authority" or "responsible party" that may make specific

decisions that affect the installation. The approving authority is responsible for coordination and checking the

quality of the work done by the various trades associated with the window/door. The construction sequence,


proper coordination and proper integration of all of the various building components are essential to the long-term

performance of any completed installation and are the responsibility of the approving authority.

1.1.5 Timeliness of Information

Graphics and information contained in this manual were current at the time the text was written. The graphics

and information may have been superseded by current versions of the standards referenced. Always check the

manufacturer’s instructions and current information provided by the building and window and door industry for

updates.

Acknowledgments

This installation reference manual incorporates information and details offered by industry manufacturers and

their suppliers. Much of the information provided was incorporated into the text and graphics.

Gratitude is extended to each individual and the organizations they represent.

Notes:

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

_________________________


Table of Contents

2.1 Selecting the Right Window / Door Class and Grade .................................................................................1

2.2 Wind Loads .................................................................................................................................................1

2.2.1 Testing for Wind Loads .......................................................................................................................2

2.3 Water Resistance .......................................................................................................................................2

2.3.1 Testing Water Resistance ...................................................................................................................2

2.3.2 What Gives a Window Water Resistance? .........................................................................................2

2.3.3 Factors Affecting Water Infiltration .....................................................................................................3

2.4 Windows and Energy ..................................................................................................................................3

2.5 Air Leakage .................................................................................................................................................4

2.5.1 Problems Associated with Air Leakage ..............................................................................................5

2.5.2 Rating Air Leakage .............................................................................................................................5

2.5.3 Reducing Air Leakage ........................................................................................................................5

2.6 Heat Transfer Through Conduction and Convection ..................................................................................6

2.6.1 Problems Associated with Conduction and Convection .....................................................................7

2.6.2 Rating Fenestration Insulation Value ..................................................................................................7

2.6.3 Reducing Conduction and Convection ...............................................................................................7

2.7 Solar Heat Gain/Solar Radiation ................................................................................................................8

2.7.1 Problems Associated with Solar Heat Gain ........................................................................................8

2.7.2 Rating Solar Heat Gain .......................................................................................................................9

2.7.3 Reducing Solar Heat Gain ..................................................................................................................9

2.8 Visible Transmittance .............................................................................................................................. 10

2.9 Condensation ........................................................................................................................................... 11

2.9.1 Problems Associated with Condensation ........................................................................................ 12

2.9.2 Other Factors Affecting Condensation ............................................................................................ 12

2.9.3 Rating Condensation ....................................................................................................................... 12

2.9.4 Reducing Condensation .................................................................................................................. 13

2.9.5 Checking HVAC Requirements ....................................................................................................... 13

2.10 Energy Efficient Glazing And Framing Considerations ........................................................................... 13

2.10.1 Low-e Coatings ................................................................................................................................ 14

2.10.2 Tints ................................................................................................................................................. 15

2.10.3 Suspended Films ............................................................................................................................. 15

2.10.4 Gas-Filled Units ............................................................................................................................... 16

2.10.5 Framing Materials ............................................................................................................................ 16

2.10.6 Spacers ............................................................................................................................................ 16





AAMA CIM-XX, DRAFT #X, DATED X/X/15 PAGE 2- I

2.11 Sound....................................................................................................................................................... 17

2.12 Seismic Performance ............................................................................................................................... 18

2.13 Impact Resistance ................................................................................................................................... 18

2.13.1 Hurricane (Missile) Impact ............................................................................................................... 18

2.13.2 Bomb Blast and Ballistic Impact ...................................................................................................... 19

2.14 Safety Considerations .............................................................................................................................. 19

2.14.1 Fire and Emergency Escape ........................................................................................................... 19

2.14.2 Safety Glass..................................................................................................................................... 19

2.14.3 Insect Screen Safety ........................................................................................................................ 19

2.14.4 Protection Screens .......................................................................................................................... 20

2.15 Window Labels ........................................................................................................................................ 20

2.15.1 Temporary Labels ............................................................................................................................ 20

2.15.2 Permanent Labels (Certification) ..................................................................................................... 21

2.15.3 Label Removal ................................................................................................................................. 21

2.15.4 Child Safety Labels .......................................................................................................................... 22

AAMA CIM-XX, Draft #X, Dated X/X/15 Page 2- ii

2.0 Design Considerations

Windows and doors protect the building and its occupants from environmental forces such as wind, rain and

temperature. The combination of wind pressure and driving rain can force water around the seals between the

operable sash and frames, gasket joinery, weep holes, sealant joints and small pin holes in the surrounding

building materials.

This manual is not intended to train installers on how to select and purchase windows and doors, but to introduce

some of the design considerations involved in making these decisions.

2.1 Selecting the Right Window / Door Class and Grade

Window and door ratings are based on a number of performance requirements including uniform structural

loading capabilities (wind load), water penetration, air infiltration and resistance to forced entry. These

performance requirements are based on minimum standards established by three different trade associations

including the American Architectural Manufacturers Association (AAMA). Performance requirements and testing

are defined in greater detail in Chapter 7 of this manual.

AAMA rates windows and doors by performance class and performance grade based on the ability of a product to

meet specific criteria. Selecting the right product class and grade is the responsibility of the architect or contractor.

When selecting a window or glass door, it is very important to balance all performance criteria including air

leakage, water penetration, structural adequacy, thermal performance, acoustic performance with operator type.

The structural requirements dictate the window selection as they need to meet the specific performance grade or

design pressure for the location, elevation and exposure. The structural requirements may sometimes also dictate

a material or frame profile that conflict with aesthetics or the use of the most thermally efficient frame. This conflict

may result in the relocation or revised orientation of windows and glass doors in order to meet both the structural

and thermal needs of the project. When selecting products for installation on a given project, consider selecting

the best products and materials to meet as closely as possible all of the specified building requirements. Other

important considerations relate to cost. A client must consider performance and cost before selecting the best

window or door available for the site. The architect, specifier, developer and/or builder in consultation with the

client must address site-specific requirements for product selection.

2.2 Wind Loads

One of the factors used in determining the correct window or door is the product's ability to withstand wind loads.

Understanding wind loads and how they affect buildings is a complex issue involving a number of factors. When

establishing performance expectations for a product, the specifier must consider the geographical location of the

building, building exposure, terrain, the height of the building, local wind speed and other factors. These factors

are used to establish a design load and performance grade (PG). The performance grade defines the minimum

uniform design pressure (DP) a product must withstand in order to qualify. This pressure is expressed in pounds

per square foot (psf).

AAMA CIM-XX, Draft #X, Dated X/X/15 Page 2- 1

2.2.1 Testing for Wind Loads

Testing products for wind load resistance is typically done in a laboratory using a test chamber capable of

producing both a positive and negative static pressure. A uniform load test pressure is generated causing the

frame, glass and components to react in a way similar to what can be expected in the field due to actual wind

pressures.

When testing windows and doors, deflection readings are recorded to determine the amount of movement up to

and including the full design load.

A structural test pressure (STP) (1.5 times the design load for windows and doors) is also performed to achieve a

factor of safety. When structural load tests are performed, additional readings are recorded to determine the

amount of permanent set. Permanent set is the amount of residual deformation a unit experiences during testing.

No glass breakage or permanent damage to the hardware is allowed during structural load testing.

2.3 Water Resistance

Water resistance test pressures have a direct correlation to the design pressure that a product must withstand in

order to meet a specific class and performance grade. The selection of the right class and performance grade is

very important. Improper product selection and/or installation can result in water infiltration, which may cause

damage.

2.3.1 Testing Water Resistance

Windows and doors are tested for water resistance by spraying the exterior surface with water at a rate of 5

gallons per square foot/per hour. This water application rate is equivalent to a rainfall of 8 inches per hour. The

test is conducted under a specified static test pressure. When applied to the window or door test sample, this

static pressure simulates the load applied to a product by the actual wind. Wind-driven rain tends to force the

water around the seals between the operating sash or ventilator and frame, and through weep holes. Water is

typically forced from high-pressure areas into areas with lower pressure.

2.3.2 What Gives a Window Water Resistance?

Typically windows and doors are designed with either compression seals or sliding seals, which are commonly

called weather seals. The design of the weather seal plays an important role when considering both water

penetration and air infiltration. Compression seals are generally used in projected windows, casements, some

pivoted windows and others. Sliding seals are generally used in hung windows and sliding windows and doors.

Compression-sealed products are often designed to be relatively airtight on the inside and are often designed with

pressure-equalized cavities. Sliding seal products (such as vertical and horizontal sliding products) must be

designed to allow for the sash to operate with a sliding motion; allowing for this type of operation results in seals

that are typically not quite as tight as compression-sealed products. The use of these seals and the product's

capability to be pressure equalized has a direct impact on the height of the inside sill leg of a product. Sliding-seal


products have an upturned sill leg on the interior side, which is generally higher than compression-seal products.

Furthermore, these products often have additional features designed into their sill, which allow for the collection

and drainage of water.

2.3.3 Factors Affecting Water Infiltration

Manufacturers are constantly testing and developing new products for improved water performance. One solution

to solving water infiltration problems is proper product selection. Understanding what can be expected of windows

and doors in terms of water performance is important to the installer, regardless of whether they participate in the

product selection process. It is typically the responsibility of the architect or contractor to select products for the

project; however, if the installer has concerns regarding the products selected, he shall consult with the approving

authority.

Install only those products designed to meet the performance levels expected on the job. Comparing the water

performance capabilities of the products intended for the job with the project specifications can greatly reduce the

potential for water damage due to improper product selection.

Use products only on projects that have performance requirements equal to, or less than, the rated performance

of the product. Understanding these design parameters will help the installer install products that maintain

performance at the maximum level.

Performance requirements, testing and product ratings are defined in greater detail in Chapter 7. The proper

selection of product ratings includes site-specific requirements that must be addressed by the architect, specifier,

developer and/or builder.

Obtaining the optimum performance of a product is often based on the installer's knowledge of proper installation

procedures. This manual is designed to educate the installer and others on the appropriate methods of

installation of windows and doors.

Water can easily be forced through cracks and holes around window and door installations from pressure

generated by forces such as wind (pressure differentials). Testing has shown that water can enter voids in the

seals, fastener penetration holes and other cracks with minimal pressure. This is why it is important to follow the

installation procedures completely and conduct a thorough check of the finished work.

2.4 Windows and Energy

Many options are available to improve a product's energy performance. Learning how products lose and gain heat

allows one to choose the right products for a particular job. There are three main ways that heat energy is

transferred through windows and doors:

• Air Leakage


• Conduction and Convection

• Solar Heat Gain

2.5 Air Leakage

Air leakage, also called infiltration (see Figure 2-1), describes air flowing through and around parts of the sash

and frame. In the summer, outside air brings heat from the outdoors into the building. The cooled inside air is

warmed by the outside air or is lost by exfiltration to the outdoors. The incoming air can also carry moisture, which

can get trapped inside the wall or raise the humidity level in the building. During winter, the opposite happens;

heated air is lost to the outside and cold air is drawn indoors from the outside. Air leakage is driven by pressure.

The greater the difference in pressures between the interior and exterior of a building, the higher the potential for

air exchange, or leakage.

Other pressure effects are less apparent. In a heated building in winter, the "stack effect" creates higher interior

pressure at the top as warm air rises within the building. This pushes air up and out of cracks at the top of the

building, and draws it in at the bottom.

Heating and cooling duct systems and ventilation fans create pressure differences by pulling air from one part of

the building and, in the case of heating and cooling ducts, supplying it to another part of the building. Doors and

windows can be a pathway for air to be pulled in or pushed out by these pressures.

Aside from controlling pressures in the building, air leakage can be decreased by installing relatively airtight

products. Note that cracks will leak more when the product is under greater pressure (as from strong wind or high

building pressure). In addition, joints may increase in size under strong pressure, allowing even more air to pass

through.

Over the years, windows and doors have become more and more energy efficient. Energy efficiency is

accomplished in a number of ways, but one significant change has been the reduction of air infiltration through

windows and doors. The allowable air infiltration per window has in many cases been reduced by 60 percent, and

in some cases, as much as 90 percent from what was acceptable 20 to 30 years ago.

When new energy efficient windows and doors are installed in existing buildings, remember that the existing

HVAC system should be checked, and in many cases adjusted (re-balanced) to accommodate the new

efficiencies. If rebalancing is not accomplished, negative pressures can be created within the building.

Negative pressures can be caused when the existing HVAC unit is still trying to draw make-up air from the

existing living spaces and common areas, yet there is less volume allowed from around the windows. When the

allowable air infiltration is reduced in volume, a higher pressure (negative) is created within the structure. The

make-up air must come from some place and will typically come from other small holes or cracks in other places


around the building. This often causes whistling and howling noises and water infiltration in places that never

occurred in the history of the building before.

Although it is not the responsibility of the window/door installer to adjust the HVAC system, advise the approving

authority that the newly installed energy efficient products may require the adjustment of the HVAC system. Re-

balancing can often result in significant energy savings.

2.5.1 Problems Associated with Air Leakage

• Heat loss in winter

• Heat gain in summer

• Occasional increased indoor humidity in summer, which in turn increases cooling requirements

• Drafts and discomfort for the occupants

• Higher utility bills

2.5.2 Rating Air Leakage

New windows and doors are often rated for air leakage. This is based on a measurement of the cubic feet per

minute (CFM) of air that flows through a windows and doors in relation to its total square foot area. Improper

installation adds to a product's air leakage. Take care to follow the manufacturers' instructions and the guidelines

in this manual to avoid creating new passages for air flow.

2.5.3 Reducing Air Leakage

The 101 standard/specification limits air leakage rates for specific operator types and classifications.

Install the products properly and seal them to the building air or vapor barrier (if provided), or to the accessory

materials used on the given project.

Consider the particular climate and conditions. A low air-leakage rating may be particularly important for a product

installed in a harsh climate or in the path of strong prevailing winds.


Figure 2-1 Air Infiltration and Exfiltration

2.6 Heat Transfer Through Conduction and Convection

Another way heat passes through a window or door is by conduction. Imagine holding a hot coffee mug; the

outside of the mug will feel warm because heat from the coffee passes through the solid mug. This is conduction,

the passage of heat through a solid material from molecule to molecule. If the mug is a tin cup, it cannot be held

for long because metal transfers heat more quickly than ceramic or foam. The same principle applies to windows.

Heat passes through the glass and frame. The composition of the window will determine how quickly the heat

passes through.

Window thermal performance is also affected by another heat transfer mechanism called convection. Convection

is the transfer of heat by the movement of gases or liquid. As warm air inside a building comes in contact with a

cold window, it cools and sinks, creating a convection current of air past the window. On the outside, wind blows

against the glass. In both cases, this air movement on the surface of the glass disturbs the air film next to the

glass, which is a component of the window's insulating value. Still air is a good insulator, but moving air is not, so

convection currents cause quicker conduction of heat through the window.

Conduction is driven by temperature differences. When there is a difference in temperature from one side of the

product to the other, heat will pass through the glass and frame. Heat transmission increases when there is a

greater temperature difference between the inside and outside (see Figure 2-2).

Manufacturers can improve a product's insulating value with multiple lites, gas fills, low-e coatings and improved

frames and spacers. All of these slow down the conduction of heat through the window/door (see Figure 2-2).

Installers can help maintain this resistance to conduction by installing the window or door in such a manner that

the entire building's weather barrier is continuous.


Figure 2-2 Conduction and Convection

2.6.1 Problems Associated with Conduction and Convection

• Heat loss in winter


• Higher utility bills

• Discomfort felt by occupants sitting near a cold surface in winter (often misperceived as draftiness)

• Condensation on the product is often caused when warm air from inside the building contacts a cold window

or door surface in winter

2.6.2 Rating Fenestration Insulation Value

Insulating value is rated in terms of U-factor, which indicates the rate at which heat flows through a product for

each degree of temperature difference between one side and the other. (U-factor is the inverse of R-value - that

is, U-factor = 1/R-value.) The whole product U-factor, as determined in accordance with AAMA 1503, accounts for

heat flow through the entire assembly, including the frame. This is important to consider, as the glass edges and

frame usually have higher U-factors (faster heat transmission) than the center of the glass. The lower the U-

factor, the greater a window's resistance to heat flow and the better its insulating value.

2.6.3 Reducing Conduction and Convection

The needs of the particular building owner and climate where the products will be used must be considered. The

lower the U-factor, the greater the energy savings will be. Lower U-factors result in improved energy efficiency in

both summer and winter. However, in very hot climates, blocking solar heat gain can be more important for

keeping the building cool in summer. It is also important to balance solar heat gain and U-Factor, or minimizing

heat flow through the fenestration, for keeping the building cool and minimizing energy costs.


2.7 Solar Heat Gain/Solar Radiation

The third major mode of heat transfer through windows and doors is solar heat gain radiation. Radiation is the

transfer of heat from one solid to another through electromagnetic waves. It is the movement of heat through

space without being conducted from molecule to molecule (conduction) or carried in a gas or liquid (convection).

For instance, radiant heat can be felt by facing a campfire, although the surrounding air is still cold. All body parts

within "sight" of the fire's heat will be warmed, but those parts away from the fire will remain cool.

Objects are constantly radiating heat to other objects. In fact, people radiate heat to cooler objects around them,

including cold windows and doors. This radiant heat loss from living bodies can have a significant effect on

comfort. But the biggest source of radiant energy is the sun. When the sun's radiation strikes glass, some of it is

reflected back outside, some is absorbed and the rest passes through the glass to the inside of the building. How

much solar radiation passes through a product depends on the time of year (see Figure 2-3), the direction the

product faces, how much external shading there is and the ability of the glass to reflect solar heat.

In the winter, solar heat gain is usually welcome, as it adds heat to the building. However, in the summer, solar

heat gain through south-, west- and east-facing windows and doors is usually a major source of heat buildup.

Windows and doors with tints, suspended films and spectrally selective low-e coatings keep more solar radiation

out of the building than products with single pane clear glass.

Figure 2-3 Summer/Winter Path of Sun

(Typical U.S. 20º-40º Latitude)

2.7.1 Problems Associated with Solar Heat Gain


• Discomfort for occupants sitting in the path of solar heat gain through the glass

• Fading of drapes and upholstery from the sun's radiation


2.7.2 Rating Solar Heat Gain

The solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) indicates the percentage of solar radiation that passes through a product

(including the frame). The glass, however, has a much more significant impact on the SHGC than the type of

frame material. Shown in Table 2-1 are various SHGC values using different glazing options. The products with

the lowest SHGC keep the most direct solar heat out of the building.

Glazing Type

Solar Heat

Gain

Coefficient

(SHGC)

Visible

Transmittance

Clear Glass 0.77 82%

Low E Hard

Coat (e ù 0.20) 0.71 75%

Low E Soft

Coat (e ù 0.08) 0.62 78%

Spectrally

Selective Low

E

0.41 72%

1/8” Bronze

Reflective 0.35 23%

Table 2-1 Solar Heat Gain and Visible Transmittance through Various Types of Glazing

2.7.3 Reducing Solar Heat Gain

• The local climate and conditions must be considered. Solar gain is not as significant for north-facing products.

For south-, west- and east-facing products, consider purchasing products with a low SHGC in hot climates.

• The placement of windows and doors in the building to take advantage of solar gain in cold and mixed

climates must be considered. South-facing windows and doors capture the most winter sun, and overhangs

(see Figure 2-4), and sunscreens can help keep the higher summer sun from striking glazing products.

• A low SHGC decreases solar heat gain in winter as well as summer. A lower SHGC is important in warm

climates where summer cooling is more significant than winter heating. However, in very cold climates, it may

be beneficial to choose a window with a higher SHGC.

• Glass that restricts solar heat gain often restricts visible light from passing through the product as well.

Consider spectrally selective glazing products that let in the wavelengths of visible light while blocking out the

wavelengths of solar energy that carry only heat.

• Use external shading (awnings, landscaping, sunscreens) to reduce the amount of solar radiation from

reaching the window or door.


• Insulating glass with suspended films that have metallic oxide coatings are designed to manage solar heat

gain (see Sections 2.10 and 2.10.2)

• The commercialization of switchable dynamic glazing technologies allow for changes in the SHGC through

changing environmental conditions over the course of the day. This provides maximization of benefits of solar

heat gain reductions yet allows changes in visible light transmission in low light conditions.

Figure 2-4 Effect of an Overhang during Summer

2.8 Visible Transmittance

One of the main purposes for putting windows in a building is to provide daylight and a view for the occupants

within. However, some characteristics that increase the energy efficiency of windows can decrease their ability to

perform this task. For instance, double pane glass allows a little bit less daylight to come through the window than

single pane glass. While this amount of reduction in Visible Transmittance (VT) is hardly noticeable, tints and films

can further decrease the VT.

A lower solar heat gain coefficient usually comes with the trade-off of lower visible transmittance. However, new

technology allows manufacturers to make windows with the best of both worlds. Spectrally selective glass

maintains high transmittance of visible light wavelengths while restricting wavelengths that are primarily heat. In

some cases it is not important to have high VT. Some people like the extra privacy afforded by a darkly tinted

window and don't mind the decrease in light transmission, especially in very sunny, hot areas. In office buildings,

where controlling glare is very important, a low VT is often desirableit is important to disperse light throughout the

internal space of the structure.

The VT rating indicates the percentage of visible light hitting the window that is transmitted through to the inside. It

is expressed as a value between 0 and 1. The VT of windows and doors can be provided for the entire

window/door, including the frame or the glass alone, which will show a higher percentage of light transmittance.


2.9 Condensation

Windows and doors (even relatively efficient ones) usually have higher U-factors than insulated walls, ceilings,

and floors. In winter, this means the interior sides of windows and doors are usually colder than other surfaces of

the building.

This makes them a prime target for condensation, which occurs when warm moist air comes in contact with a

cooler surface (see Figure 2-5). Windows don’t cause condensation and there are no condensation-free windows.

When condensation occurs (or has the potential to occur), it is dependent on a number of factors.

Warm air can hold more moisture than cool air. The warm air cools as it hits the frame and glass, and the water

vapor condenses out. The colder the interior plane of the window, the more likely water will condense there.

Condensation is visible on glass because the moisture cannot pass through it like more porous materials such as

wood, drywall or brick. AAMA provides humidity level guidelines, tables and additional condensation information

in other related technical publications (refer to the AAMA Publication Store at www.aamanet.org).

Air leakage can also contribute to condensation problems. If warm moist interior air leaks through cracks around

the window or door in winter, condensation can occur within the wall cavity, causing mold to grow on the wall and

window frame, potentially leading to material degradation. In buildings where windows are being replaced, this is

another good reason to re-balance the HVAC system.

Another place where condensation can occur is between the panes of a double pane unit of glass. This is an

indication that the seal that holds the panes together has failed. Seal failure may allow insulating gases to escape

and permit moist air to penetrate the air cavity, thus reducing the energy efficiency of the window or door. The

glass often becomes cloudy, obstructing the view, and the glass generally needs to be replaced. (See Section

2.9.3 for window condensation ratings.)


http://www.aamanet.org/

Figure 2-5 Causes of Condensation

2.9.1 Problems Associated with Condensation

Small amounts of condensation on the coldest days are not a major problem. However, severe condensation has

been reported to cause health concerns and cosmetic or even structural damage to a building.

• Condensation can contribute to the growth of mold, discoloring the product assembly and may trigger

allergies in sensitive people.

• Condensation can damage painted surfaces and promote rot in wood members.

• Condensation can damage not only the window or door, but also the wall in which it is installed.

• Install products in areas susceptible to condensation that won’t support mold growth, deteriorate or discolor.

2.9.2 Other Factors Affecting Condensation

Since condensation is associated with windows and doors, it is often the products that are seen as the "problem."

However, condensation can actually be the result of any number of factors, including:

• Relative humidity (invisible water vapor) found inside the building

• The control of humidity or the amount of moisture in the air (especially in hospitals, museums and other

commercial buildings where the humidity levels are exceedingly high)

• The type of building materials used (wood, concrete and wallboard all release moisture).

• The length of time the building was exposed to moisture (rain) before it was closed up. This can trap moisture

within the building

• Plants, cooking activities, showers, non-vented fireplace use and even breathing releases moisture into the

building

• Interior temperature

• Pressures that increase air leakage (re-balance the HVAC system)

• Outdoor humidity and temperature

• Solar radiation

• The direction the product faces

2.9.3 Rating Condensation

The Condensation Resistance Factor (CRF), developed by AAMA, allows window purchasers to compare the

potential for serious condensation on different products (see AAMA 1503, "Voluntary Test Method for Thermal

Transmittance and Condensation Resistance of Windows").

Selecting a proper CRF involves determining the average inside relative humidity and the exterior design

temperature. The exterior design temperature can be obtained using ASHRAE tables, which give city-by-city

numbers.


2.9.4 Reducing Condensation

The window or door purchaser or the installer cannot address most of the factors causing condensation.

However, one can choose a product that minimizes the likelihood of the problems, especially in buildings or

rooms that are prone to condensation problems. In general, bathroom and kitchen windows are most prone to

condensation where humidity is higher due to the use of showers, dryers, and cooking devices. Especially for

these areas, the following precautions can be taken:

• Windows and doors can be selected with a low U-factor.

• Windows and doors can be selected with warm-edge spacers and insulating frames to help reduce

condensation.

• Non-thermal metal frames (frames without thermal barriers), which conduct heat quickly, can be avoided.

Frames with a high Condensation Resistance Factor can be selected.

• Building owners may install and use exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens to remove excessive interior

moisture, and to avoid adding more humidity in winter.

Single pane glass is prone to condensation. Products with lower U-factors (such as double pane glass and

glazing products with gas fills and low-e coatings) have a warmer interior surface in winter, which reduces

condensation. However, because the heat transfer is greater at the edges of the glass, some of these products

may still experience condensation around the edge. Products with "warm-edge spacers" and insulated frames

can help keep the inside surfaces of the whole assembly warmer, thereby reducing condensation.

2.9.5 Checking HVAC Requirements

When replacing drafty, single glazed non-thermal windows and doors within existing buildings, it is the

responsibility of the building owners to have the HVAC requirements checked and re-balanced (see Section 2.5).

Using the relatively airtight products available on the market today can have an impact on the heating/air

conditioning requirements of a building; therefore, some energy savings may be available.

It is the responsibility of the building owner to advise tenants that because air changes will not occur as frequently

within an airtight building, the potential for trapping moisture-laden air is much more significant. This, too, will have

an impact on the occurrence of condensation. Some building codes require a specified number of air changes

within the building. It is the responsibility of the approving authority and the building owner to check the

requirements to determine if another means of allowing for building air exchanges is necessary.

2.10 Energy Efficient Glazing And Framing Considerations

To improve the efficiency of windows and doors, manufacturers often offer a number of options which have an

impact on the glass and frame. They can customize a product to achieve specific performance values of

conduction resistance, solar heat gain, visible transmittance, condensation resistance and air leakage. Some of

the improvements may be applied to the glass, such as low-emittance (low-e) coatings and tints, while others

occur within the glass unit such as suspended films and gas fills. The frame and glass edge can be improved by


using less conductive materials, designing in a thermal break, or using warm-edge spacers between the lites of

glass.

2.10.1 Low-e Coatings

A low-e coating is a translucent microscopic metal oxide layer applied to a surface of one or more lites of glass.

The coating allows certain wavelengths of radiation to pass through more easily than others. A low-e coating can

improve the insulating value of a window or door as much as adding a third lite of glass. A typical high-

transmission low-e coating lets in heat from the sun, but helps reflect the building's heat back inside. These

coatings are excellent for cold climates, and are particularly useful for south-facing windows and doors. Coatings

are frequently placed on the inside of the exterior lite of glass (see surface #2 in Figure 2-6).

Some windows have spectrally selective low-e coatings. These windows are good for mixed climates where both

heating and cooling are needed. They help restrict the heat energy from the sun but allow much of the light to

come through, which is beneficial in summer, and keeps the building's heat from radiating outside, which is

beneficial in winter (see Figure 2-7).

Figure 2-6 Anatomy of an IG Unit


Figure 2-7 Low-e Coatings – Winter and Summer

2.10.2 Tints

Various tints are available to reduce glare from the outside on sunny days and to reduce the amount of solar gain

through the glass. If applied films are installed, advise the approving authority that tinting plastic films are

available; however, building owners should be aware that tinting may result in increased heat build-up within the

glass lites, thus increasing the potential for glass breakage due to heat stress. Some window and door

manufacturers will consider their glass warranties void if such tinted films are applied to their products.

There are two three types of tints:

• Tints that restrict light as well as heat gain. These are typically the bronze and gray tints.

• Tints that reduce heat gain while allowing more light than other tints to be transmitted into the building are

called spectrally selective. These tints typically appear light blue or green.

• Switchable dynamic glazing offers changeable tints as sunlight conditions change. These reduce solar heat

gain, maximize VT and reduce or eliminate the need for blinds and light diffusion materials that are used to

control glare.

•

Reflective coatings or films are also often used for commercial buildings to reduce glare and heat gain. These are

similar to reflective (mirror) coatings used on sunglasses. Like standard tinted glazing, these coatings can reduce

light and visibility through the window.

2.10.3 Suspended Films

Low emissivity suspended films can also be an option in applications where energy efficiency and improved

comfort are a consideration. This option involves the use of wavelength-selective films (see Figure 2-8) which are

suspended between the layers of glass. The films block out most of the unwanted ultraviolet (UV) waves, while

controlling solar heat gain and keeping the buildings interior heat inside. Suspended films are available with a

number of options, including the use of warm-edge spacers, gas fills and multiple lites of glass.


Figure 2-8 Suspended Films

2.10.4 Gas-Filled Units

The dead-air space between panes in double- or triple-paned glass lowers its U-factor. In a standard, double-

pane window or door, it is the still air between the panes, as well as the film of air on the outside surfaces of the

glass, that provides most of the insulating value.

To further improve thermal performance, manufacturers often fill the space between the panes with inert and

nontoxic gases that insulate better than air. Inert gases typically used are:

• Argon — common and relatively inexpensive, is designed for insulating glazing units with gas spaces

between 3/8” and 5/8”.

• Krypton — more effective than argon, but more expensive, is designed for insulating glazing units with gas

spaces 3/8” or smaller.

•

2.10.5 Framing Materials

The frame material and style also have an effect on a product's energy efficiency. In double-pane windows and

doors, conduction is often higher through the frame than through the glass. Frame materials are discussed further

in Chapter 3.

2.10.6 Spacers

Many variations of edge design have been tried over the years. Currently the design most used by manufacturers

incorporates spacers and polymer sealants. A spacer separates the layers of glass, and sealant is applied around

the entire perimeter. A desiccant is included in the spacer to absorb any residual moisture between the lites after

sealing the perimeter (see Figure 2-9).

In connection with the sealant, the spacer performs several functions. It helps to accommodate stress induced by

thermal expansion and pressure differences; it resists the passage of water vapor into the space between the


lites; and it helps keep any insulating gases, such as argon or krypton, from leaking out. Some examples of

spacers are:

• Aluminum

• Stainless steel

• Improved design metal

• Insulating silicone foam, extruded vinyl or pultruded fiberglass

• Thermal breaks/barriers incorporated into metal spacers

Figure 2-9 Warm Edge Insulating Glass Spacers

2.11 Sound

Commercial windows and doors are sometimes rated for sound transmission. An Outdoor-Indoor Transmission

Class (OITC) rating provides a single number rating for transportation noise. A Sound Transmission Class (STC)

rating provides a single number rating for use with speech, radio, television and similar sources of noise through

interior partitions.

The higher the sound rating, the more isolation the products will provide against noise. The sound rating of an

assembly can be increased by using products with low air infiltration rates.


Insulating glass units with unequal glass thickness, laminated glass or gas fills can also be used to improve the

acoustical performance. A storm window can be added to a prime window, or a dual window system could be

used to increase the sound rating.

Proper installation and sealing of windows and doors is also important. The performance of an installed product

can be affected by the surrounding wall and building construction.

2.12 Seismic Performance

• Certain areas of the country are prone to seismic movement caused by earthquakes. Commercial projects

may have the added requirement of seismic performance, which is the ability to handle specific amounts of

movement. Whenever buildings are located in areas where this kind of movement is expected, consider the

use of special designs which will address seismic requirements.

•

• When products are required to withstand seismic movement, the job specifications will clearly state the

expected performance criterion and include the anticipated amount of movement between floors both

horizontally and vertically. Window and door designers can allow for this kind of movement by using

accessories and special anchor clips. Always consult with the manufacturer to determine the additional

precautions necessary to ensure the installed system will perform as intended.

• For more information on seismic performance and testing, obtain a copy of AAMA 501.4 and 501.6.

2.13 Impact Resistance

The ability of glass and frames to resist various types of impact is becoming more and more prevalent. There are

basically two types of impact a product may be required to sustain. They involve either natural hazards due to

storms or man made hazards like bomb blasts and ballistics.

2.13.1 Hurricane (Missile) Impact

After several disastrous hurricanes recently struck in south Florida and other costal areas, building code officials

responded by developing and adopting requirements for both small and large missile impact caused by wind born

debris.

To meet these requirements, window/door manufacturers test their products to meet various missile types and a

range of cyclical loads up to and including design load. Impact resistance tests involve shooting a wood 2x4 or

pieces of steel through cannons designed to hit the window or doo in specific areas. Once the product is

impacted, cyclical static loads are applied. Products must be able to withstand the impact and all cyclical loading

without the glass falling out of the frame, or tearing more than a specified amount in order to meet the

performance requirements.


2.13.2 Bomb Blast and Ballistic Impact

Bomb blast and ballistic resistance (gun fire) are two other optional tests performed on windows and doors. Units

requiring bomb blast and ballistic resistance are more prevalent in government office buildings and other high risk

projects.

The type of product used in these types of buildings will be based on the severity of the blast or ballistic

requirements. For these projects, glazing is commonly made up of a series of glass lites incorporating an

interlayer. Films are also sometimes field-applied to the glass. Consult with the original glass supplier before

applying films to existing glass.

2.14 Safety Considerations

There are several critical safety issues that impact the design and function of various windows and doors:

• Fire and Egress

• Safety Glass

• Insect Screen Safety

• Security Screens (Protection Screens)

2.14.1 Fire and Emergency Escape

Building codes usually specify that all bedrooms in the first three stories of a building need at least one operable

window or exterior door approved for emergency escape or rescue. This escape path must open directly onto a

public street, alley, yard or court. An emergency escape window (also known as an egress window) must be

operable from the inside without the use of tools. (Egress requirements are covered in greater detail in Section

9.4.)

2.14.2 Safety Glass

Most codes require safety glass where a window or door (with glass) may be subject to human impact. (Safety

glass is covered in more detail in Chapter 9, Section 9.5.)

2.14.3 Insect Screen Safety

Insect screens prevent the passage of insects, not children. In multi-story commercial buildings, the latches that

keep the screens in place may allow for easy removal for cleaning and storage. These latches will not hold up

under the weight of a small child. Additionally, screen mesh can be cut, torn, and kicked out of the screen retainer

tracks.

Thousands of children are injured or die in the United States due to accidental falls from unprotected window

openings. If the building owner asks about screen safety, recommend the following:

• Whenever possible, open the windows from the top rather than the bottom.

• If the windows are opened from the bottom, only open them 4" or less.


• Do not place furniture that a child could climb on in front of an unguarded window.

• In high-rise buildings, consider using window guards to protect children from falls.

• If window guards are installed, make sure they are made of strong materials, installed correctly and in

accordance with local building and/or fire codes.

• Never attach a child protection guard to a window frame that is rotten or loose.

• Remember that window screens are meant to deter insects, not children. They can give a false sense of

security and are not meant to prevent a child from falling.

2.14.4 Protection Screens

In areas where security is important, protection screens (also known as security screens) can be applied over the

openings on the lower floors to keep intruders out. They can also be applied to windows on upper floors to protect

against glass breakage due to flying debris. Screens are typically offered in three classes defined as light,

medium, or heavy. The ratings are based on the level of protection desired and the screen’s ability to meet

specific test criteria.

Although these protection screens are great for keeping unwanted people out and avoiding glass breakage,

protection screens and padlocks can also be a hindrance to fire department personnel who are trying to gain

access to the building. Building owners must weigh the importance of intruder protection, while considering the

ability of firemen to enter (or escape from) the burning building. Always consult with local codes for egress

requirements.

Installers must also be aware of problems caused by improperly attaching screens to the window frames.

Attaching screens to the window frames may cause both improper operation and water infiltration. Whenever

possible, attach the protection screen to the surrounding construction.

2.15 Window Labels

AAMA provides uniform ways to evaluate products for performance. Labels provide the information needed by the

designer, installer and consumer to compare performance ratings, as well as its physical specifications and

compliance with standards.

2.15.1 Temporary Labels

Many new windows and doors carry temporary labels that indicate the energy specifications for the product.

AAMA WINS Label

At the request of building code officials, AAMA developed a new temporary label. The AAMA Window

Inspection and Notification System (WINS) label may include information on product ratings, anchoring


requirements, installation instructions and special product qualifications, such as approval by local code

evaluation services.

2.15.2 Permanent Labels (Certification)

Permanent labels provide for performance and manufacturer tracking for the life of the window. The labels are

typically attached in a location unseen when the window is closed. AAMA also provides the test procedures and

laboratory accreditation necessary to rate windows for permanent labels. AAMA Window Certification Label

The certification label shows that the window complies with a certain class and minimum grade (its ability to

withstand wind loads, and meets a given water resistance and air infiltration rate). Independent third-party

laboratories (accredited by AAMA) test the performance of windows and doors for the manufacturer, following test

procedures outlined in the standard/specification known as ANSI/AAMA/WDMA/CSA 101/1.S. 2/A440–08, or its

current successor.

The AAMA label (see Figure 2-10) has a four-part code, which indicates the product type, performance class,

performance grade and maximum size tested. The product type indicates the window style, such as casement

window or hinged glass doors. The performance class shows the type of building for which the window was

designed.

The performance grade gives the design pressure. In order to obtain an AAMA label, windows must meet the

minimum design pressure for their performance class.

Windows can also be tested at higher pressures to receive a higher design pressure (grade) rating. Use the

performance grade to check the rated performance of a product against the required structural performance in the

architectural specifications.

The maximum size tested may seem like a minor detail when looking at a window's label. However, the size of the

window can have a great effect on its structural capability.

Figure 2-10 Sample AAMA Label

2.15.3 Label Removal

The AAMA certification label is permanent and is to be left on the window. The label is usually located on the

inside of the frame, where it is out of sight when the window is closed.

Comment [r1]: Label example should be updated. Staff Update


Temporary labels, or labels from other state or local organizations, are removed after the window is inspected.

When removing temporary labels, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Use extreme caution when using razor

blades to remove labels as they can scratch the glass and they can also cause bodily injury.

2.15.4 Child Safety Labels

Most new window screens, such as insect screens and sunscreens, carry a child safety label, indicating a fall

hazard warning.

This label indicates that the screen is not a safety device to prevent children from falling out. The label is

permanent and is affixed to the screen frame where it can be seen when the window is open. Examples of screen

labels are shown below (see Figure 2-11).

Notes:

__________________________________________________________________________________________

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Figure 2-11 Child Safety Label


Table of Contents

3.1 Window Components .......................................................................................................................................1

3.2 Wall Framing Around Windows ........................................................................................................................2

3.3 Window Materials .............................................................................................................................................3

3.3.1 Characteristics of Window Frame Materials .............................................................................................3





AAMA CIM-XX, DRAFT #X, DATED X/X/15 PAGE 3- I

3.1 Window Components

Windows have many components, and often each one has two or more common names. The main parts of most

window assemblies (see Figure 3-1) include:

Glazing: The glass in a window. Sometimes the glass is tempered for safety and sometimes it is coated for

energy efficiency. It may include layers of plastic as well as glass.

Insulating Glass (IG Unit): Typically two sheets/lites of glass separated by a spacer and sealed. Also referred to

as double glazing and double pane. Can also be comprised of three or more layers and multiple spacer systems.

Sash: The fixed or movable part of the window in which the panes of glass are set. Most operable sliding windows

have two or more sash.

Frame (Jambs): The frame usually consists of two vertical members (side jambs) and two horizontal members,

(head at the top and sill at the bottom) which hold the sash. Frames are made from steel, aluminum, fiberglass

(FRP), plastic, wood or a combination of these materials.

Casing (Brick Mold): Typically found in wood installations where the interior and exterior trim molding attached to

the window frame. The interior casing is usually a flat decorative molding; one edge is nailed to the frame and the

other to the wall. The casing covers the gap between the jamb and the rough opening (the hole in the wall). The

exterior casing, sometimes called brick mold, attaches to the window frame and covers the exterior side of the

gap around the rough opening. In replacement applications, new panning and trim are often applied to cover the

existing brick mold.

Sills: The sill member is commonly a piece of trim used at the bottom of the window at the sill condition to cover

the transition between the window and the brick or limestone.

Stool: Stool members can be made of a variety of materials like wood, marble, slate, etc., and is used to cover the

rough wall framing under the window.

Mullions (Integral Mull): Mullions commonly form the division between two or more windows. These members

generally act as the structural component between window units in large openings.

Muntins: Dividers in or on a light of glass which are either exterior (outside of the glass on the exterior face),

internal (within the insulating glass airspace), interior (on the inside of the glass on the interior face) or true

(actually divide the glass into small lights).

Other Window Components: In addition, windows are usually manufactured with stops, parting strips, rails,

latches, locks, pulleys, handles for opening and other accessories (see Glossary).

AAMA CIM-XX, DRAFT #X, DATED X/X/15 PAGE 3- 1

Figure 3-1 Window Components

3.2 Wall Framing Around Windows

It's also important to know the parts of the wall framing around the window for buildings and other types of

structures. In wood-framed or steel-framed stud walls, the window interrupts the regular pattern of studs (vertical

wall framing members) in the wall, and some extra wall framing is used to provide structural support and allow for

window attachment (see Figure 3-2). In masonry walls, brick, block, and steel form the opening for the window.

King Stud: A full-length stud nailed to the end of the window header on either side of the window rough opening.

Trimmer Stud: A shorter stud, which supports the header; it runs from the sole plate up to the bottom of the

header.

Cripple Studs: An even shorter set of studs which run from the sole plate to the rough sill. The rough sill rests on

top of the cripple studs. If a full height header is not used, cripple studs may extend from atop the header to the

top plate.

Header: In wood-framing construction, the header supports the load transferred from the floor and/or roof

structure above. This load is then transferred to the trimmers adjacent to the window or door opening. The header

must be designed to carry this load without allowing for excessive deflection of the framing, which can result in

loads being transferred to the window frame. A licensed Professional Engineer should always design headers.

Lintel: In masonry construction, the lintel is commonly made of steel or stone, and supports the load transferred

from the floor and/or roof structure above. This load is then transferred to the walls adjacent to the window or door


opening. The lintel, which performs a similar function to the header in wood or steel fram construction, must be

designed to carry this load without excessive deflection, which can result in loads being transferred to the window

frame. A licensed Professional Engineer should always design lintels.

Figure 3-2 Wall Framing Materials

3.3 Window Materials

3.3.1 Characteristics of Window Frame Materials

Thermally Broken Aluminum

To produce aluminum frame components, aluminum in the form of billets or logs is forced through a steel die

under extreme pressure. The aluminum exiting the die takes on the shape of the hole in the die and is called an

extrusion. Fixed windows can be built from a single extrusion of aluminum, but more complex windows are

assembled from a number of separately extruded components. The operable and fixed head, jamb, sill and

interlock pieces may all be different extrusions, each designed to meet the structural and functional requirements

of the entire window frame. Thermally broken aluminum frames improve energy performance by incorporating a

low conductance material separation in the extrusion.

Vinyl

Vinyl window components or extrusions, are formed by melting vinyl powder or pellets and pushing this through a

die to form the shape and then through calibrators to control the critical dimensions. The extrusions may include


several hollow chambers designed to trap air increasing the energy performance and improving the sound

transmission qualities. The internal chambers contribute to the strength of the profile and in many instances the

chambers are critical to the formation of water drainage paths allowing efficient evacuation to the exterior.

Vinyl when extruded is pre-colored and finished, needing no further finishing steps. The color can be continuous

through the entire profile or co-extruded onto predetermined surfaces as a cap-stock. In either scenario, the

finishes are resistant to ultra-violet degradation and unaffected and impervious to exposure to salt and other

environmental conditions. Rigid vinyl profiles emit ultra-low quantities of volatile organic compounds, if detected at

all.

Similar to many materials, vinyl will expand and contract through temperature cycling. The design, construction

and installation of vinyl windows and doors work together to accommodate any movement, allowing for quality

long term performance.

Like aluminum frames, vinyl window frames are extrusions. The extrusions may include several internal hollow

chambers; these chambers also trap air, increasing the energy performance and improving the sound-deadening

qualities of the frame.

In general, the more internal chambers, the stronger and more energy efficient the vinyl frame will be.

Wood

Wood frames are usually made from coniferous trees. A few specialty products use hardwoods. All wood parts for

windows and doors (except inside stops and trim) are treated with a water repellent preservative after machining.

Window manufacturers mill raw lumber into intricate, interlocking strips that are assembled into window frames.

A modern wood window is often composed of finger-jointed wood pieces, reserving precious straight-grain solid

wood for the visible areas. Hardware, weather-stripping and design improvements minimize wood-to-wood

contact, allowing modern wood windows to slide smoothly and provide a tight seal from the elements.

Fiberglass

To form fiberglass frames, glass strands are combined with polyester resins to form a composite substance.

Several fabrication methods are used to form finished shapes of high strength and stability. Fiberglass window

frames are commonly made using the pultrusion process: fiber strands are pulled through a resin bath, preformed

and aligned, then placed in a heated die where they cure and harden to shape. Relatively new to the window

market, fiberglass frames are structurally strong, expand and contract very little with temperature changes, and

are good thermal insulators.

NOTE: For more information on the expansion and contraction of various materials, see Chapter 17, Section

17.1.3.

Composite Materials


There are several composite materials emerging into the window and door industry. The most common products

are:

• Wood/plastic composites

• Cellular PVC

• ABS/ASA profiles

Wood/Plastic Composites

A manufactured composite material which consists of fine wood waste (wood fiber) mixed with plastic resins. This

wood waste/resin material can be transformed by heat and pressure into almost any shape.

Cellular PVC

An engineered cellular (foam) PVC; it is extruded by two processes called free foam and Celluka. The free foam

process results in a softer outer skin while the Celluka process creates a tough outer skin. Cellular vinyl can also

be co-extruded with rigid vinyl or other materials on pre-determined exterior surfaces, also referred to as cap-

stock. In cross section, many cellular vinyl components are solid and can be processed similar to wood. The solid

areas appear as a micro-structure of small bubbles, trapping air to contribute to thermal performance and adding

strength to extrusion.

Cellular vinyl shares many properties and attributes with rigid vinyl in terms of pre-finished colors and

performance characteristics.

An engineered cellular (foam) PVC; it is extruded by two processes: free foam and cellular. Free foam has a

softer skin, but the cellular process creates a tougher outer skin much like the hardness of wood.

ABS/ASA Profiles

An engineered plastic composite featuring an ABS profile with an ASA capstock. This product has been used for

years in the automotive industry.

Other Framing Materials (Hybrids)

Any of the above frame materials may be combined to make hybrid frames. For instance, interior wood strips are

sometimes attached to an aluminum frame to combine the exterior weathering, strength and weight properties of

aluminum with a natural wood interior finish. New products combining various materials are appearing as

manufacturing processes evolve and improve.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

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Table of Contents

4.1 Determining Window Types ........................................................................................................................1

4.2 Hung Windows (Single/Double/Triple Hung) ..............................................................................................1

4.3 Vertical Sliding Windows ............................................................................................................................4

4.4 Horizontal Sliding Windows ........................................................................................................................4

4.5 Awning/Hopper/Projected and Casement Windows ...................................................................................4

4.6 Vertically and Horizontally Pivoted Windows..............................................................................................5

4.7 Side Hinged (In-swinging) Windows ...........................................................................................................6

4.8 Top Hinged (In-swinging) Windows ............................................................................................................6

4.9 Dual Action Windows ..................................................................................................................................6

4.10 Hinged Egress Windows .........................................................................................................................6

4.11 Dual Windows .........................................................................................................................................6

4.12 Jalousie Windows ...................................................................................................................................6

4.13 Jal/Awning Windows ...............................................................................................................................6

4.14 Tropical Awning Windows .......................................................................................................................7

4.15 Specialty Windows ..................................................................................................................................7

4.16 Fixed Windows .......................................................................................................................................8

4.17 Combination Windows ............................................................................................................................8

4.18 Miscellaneous Window Hardware ..........................................................................................................9





AAMA CIM-XX, Draft #X, Dated X/X/15 Page 4-i

4.0 Types of Windows And Related Hardware

4.1 Determining Window Types

When determining a window type, a client’s needs must be the first consideration. Appearance, energy

performance, ventilation capability, egress requirements and ease of cleaning all play a role in selecting the most

appropriate type of window for a project.

A window’s design can determine how much ventilation it provides. Windows that open wider allow more air to

pass into or out of the building. Casement windows, when fully open, tend to direct the most air into the house.

Hung windows can provide ventilation through only half the total window area. However, double hung windows

allow ventilation both near the top and near the bottom of the wall.

Many windows are designed specifically for ease of cleaning. For instance, pivoted windows turn around so the

outside surface faces in. Other windows feature a combination of opening capabilities; they can be opened one

way for ventilation, or can be tilted in for cleaning.

Most of the following window-type categories are those used by AAMA when setting standards and test

specifications.

4.2 Hung Windows (Single/Double/Triple Hung)

Hung windows typically have two sash in a single frame. In double hung windows, both sash move up and down,

while in single hung windows only the bottom sash moves. Triple hung windows have three sash and typically

provide a larger ventilation area. Double and triple hung windows can provide both high and low ventilation to a

room (see Figure 4-1).

Hung windows differ from other vertically sliding windows in that they have a counter-balancing mechanism to

offset the weight of the sash when opening and when keeping the window open. In older windows, the lower sash

is generally attached to a rope on either side, which runs through a pulley in the top of the side jambs. A weight

on the end of the rope inside the jamb counteracts gravity to keep an open window sash from falling closed.

Newer windows may have a spiral sash balance, a spring balance, a block and tackle balance, a tape spring

balance, or a constant force type balance.

A spiral sash balance consists of a tube, coiled spring and spiral rod located inside the jambs. The spring allows

the rod to extend and retract as the sash is moved, and ensures that the sash is correctly balanced in all

positions. The sash can remain stationary at any desired position.

AAMA CIM-XX, DRAFT #X, DATED X/X/15 PAGE 1

Spring balances are sometimes used for architectural and heavy commercial windows. They consist of an inner

torsion spring surrounded by an outer extension spring; both are enclosed in a tube. They can be very effective

for extremely heavy windows.

The block and tackle balance has a spring attached to a block. A nylon cord or metal cable passes around the

pulleys and over a roller at the top of the frame and is attached to the sash.

Tape spring balances consist of a coiled tape. The tape housings mount in the head or jambs of the frame, and

the ends of the tape are connected to the top or bottom of the sash at the jambs.


Figure 4-1 Window Types


4.3 Vertical Sliding Windows

Vertical sliders have two or more sash in a frame. One sash may move and the other remains fixed, or two or

more sash may slide. Unlike conventional single hung or double hung windows, operable sash are held open by

mechanical means rather than with a balance and pulley system.

4.4 Horizontal Sliding Windows

Horizontal sliders have two or more sash in a frame. They may have one moving sash and one fixed sash, two

sliding sash on either side of a fixed one, or two adjacent sash may slide by each other. Sash rollers usually

provide low friction sliding (see Figure 4-1). Operable and fixed sash can usually be determined by the use of the

symbol “X” for operable or “O” for fixed. Thus a three lite slider that is marked OXO would be fixed, operable, fixed

respectively.

4.5 Awning/Hopper/Projected and Casement Windows

In awning, hopper, projected, and casement windows, the whole sash swings open and projects (sticks out)

outside or inside from the plane of the window. The symbol for project-out sash is “P.O.”, while “P.I.” represents

project-in sash. The sash operates on hinges or pivots. An awning window rotates about its top edge and projects

outward from the building (see Figure 4-1). A hopper window pivots about its bottom edge and projects inward

(see Figure 4-1). A casement window rotates from one of the side jambs and swings either inward or outward.

The use of two phantom lines, extending from the corner of the sash and joining together at a point on the

opposite side, represents the hinge location (or pivot side) of the window (see Figure 4-2). The side opposite the

hinge is where the operable handles are placed. Thus a P.I. window with the phantom lines pointing to the left

side would be a project-in casement with the hinges on the left side of the frame.

Projected windows provide ventilation through the entire window area, generally seal tightly when closed, and are

relatively easy to clean. They can be used to direct ventilation air into the room. This is particularly true of side-

hinged casement windows.


Figure 4-2 Window Types

4.6 Vertically and Horizontally Pivoted Windows

Pivoted windows have a sash attached to pivots in the middle of the frame (either at the head and sill or at the

side jambs). A pivoted window can be rotated 180° or 360° so that the outside surface is accessible from the

inside for cleaning (see Figure 4-2).

Vertically pivoted windows are often used in high-rise buildings because they can be rotated to allow the outside

surfaces to be washed from the inside. These windows typically have special locking devices and can be opened

only by custodial personnel.


4.7 Side Hinged (In-swinging) Windows

Instead of projecting out like most awning and casement windows, in-swinging windows project into the building

from hinges on the side jamb. In-swinging windows are typically used for cleaning access or emergency

ventilation.

4.8 Top Hinged (In-swinging) Windows

Like side-hinged in-swinging windows, top hinged inswinging windows are designed to operate primarily for

cleaning, not to provide ventilation. A top hinged in-swinging window consists of a sash hinged to the head (top of

the frame) so that it swings open to the inside.

4.9 Dual Action Windows

Dual action windows have a sash that tilts into the room from the top for ventilation and swings in from the side for

cleaning of the outside surface.

4.10 Hinged Egress Windows

A hinged egress window has a sash that swings outward or inward at least 90° in a stationary perimeter frame. It

must meet requirements for the size of the clear opening when fully opened. Hinged egress windows are usually

casement or awning windows. In addition to the usual structural tests, hinge operation is also tested.

4.11 Dual Windows

Dual windows contain two separate sash that operate independently of each other. There may be an interior

primary window with an exterior secondary window, an exterior primary window with an interior secondary

window, or two primary windows. Primary windows are designed to be structurally capable of protecting the

building’s interior from wind and rain. Secondary windows are used mainly for energy conservation or sound

control. They are not intended to be used by themselves.

Dual windows can be used to provide ventilation, while protecting the interior from rain. This is achieved with

vertical sliders by opening the outside window at the bottom and the inside window at the top. With horizontal

sliders, open the outside window on one side and the inside window on the other side.

4.12 Jalousie Windows

Jalousie windows have a series of overlapping louvers which pivot simultaneously in the frame, controlled by a

single operating device. Louvers are typically glass, but may also be aluminum, wood, or plastic. When opened,

the bottom edge of each louver swings toward the exterior.

4.13 Jal/Awning Windows

Jal/Awning windows consist of a multiplicity of top hinged sash arranged in a vertical series within a common

frame with each sash operated by its own control device, which swings the bottom edges of the sash outward.


4.14 Tropical Awning Windows

Tropical awning windows consist of a multiplicity of top hinged sash arranged in a vertical series within a common

frame which are all operated by a single common operator, which swings the bottom edges of the sash outward.

4.15 Specialty Windows

Windows can be custom-made in various shapes and sizes, including circles, hexagons, semicircles and

trapezoids. Specialty windows may be fixed, operating or a combination of fixed and operating sash (see Figure

4-3).

Figure 4-3 Specialty Windows


4.16 Fixed Windows

Fixed windows are not intended to open for ventilation or egress; there are no moving parts, hinges, or latches.

They consist of a glazed frame, or a fixed sash and frame, installed into the opening. Fixed windows are usually

more airtight than windows that open.

4.17 Combination Windows

When multiple windows are joined together in long runs, either vertically or horizontally, they form what is called

“Vertical Stack Windows” or “Horizontal Ribbon Windows” respectively. These types of openings may involve any

combination of either fixed or operable window assemblies.

Vertical Stack and Horizontal Ribbon Windows are typically joined together with male/female integral frames or

with independent mullions. These types of window combinations may also make transitions from full height units

to partial height units (see Figure 4-4).

Figure 4-4a “Horizontal Ribbon Windows”


Figure 4-4b "Vertical Stack Windows”

4.18 Miscellaneous Window Hardware

Numerous types of hardware are used for window operation and locking. The following pages provide examples

of some of the more common types of hardware installers might find in the field. Installers can use these drawings

to help recognize and/or replace hardware as needed.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________


Various Types of Window Hardware


Sweep - Hand Operated Lock

Sweep – Security Lock

Sweep – Pole Operated Lock

Keeper – Flush Mount

Keeper – Mortise

Sash Lock

Keeper

Spring Catch – Pole Operated

Spring Catch – Pole Operated

Keeper

Spring Catch

Keeper (Std. Style)


Anti-Lockout Keeper

Spring Catch w/ Keeper

10” Storm Hinge (Multi-Bar)

Handle (Surface Mount)

Handle (Web Mount)

Strike

Handle

Keeper

Handless Fastener

(Custodial Lock)

Spring Catch

(Project-Out Bottom)

Spring Catch

(Project-In)

Under Screen Push Bar



Handle

Keeper

Roto Operator w/

Channel Guide

Butt Hinge

Spiral Balance

Hung Carrier

Heavy Duty Hung Carrier

Block & Tackle Balances

Class Balance

Bracket

Carrier

Balance Tool


Table of Contents

5.1 Hinged Glass Doors ....................................................................................................................................1

5.2 Dual Action Hinged Glass Doors ................................................................................................................1

5.3 Sliding Glass Doors ....................................................................................................................................2

5.4 Miscellaneous Door Hardware ...................................................................................................................2






5.0 Types of Exterior Glass Doors & Related Hardware

There are a number of different exterior glass door products on the market. This manual covers hinged and

sliding exterior glass doors and their associated hardware components.

5.1 Hinged Glass Doors

Sometimes referred to as French doors or terrace doors, hinged glass doors consist of one or more glazed panels

contained within an overall frame. One or more of the glazed panels are operable, swinging either inward or

outward (see Figure 5-1).

Whenever specifying pairs of hinged glass doors, be sure to indicate which door is to be the primary panel and

which is to be the secondary panel. Base this determination on how they are viewed from the exterior. Panels are

typically defined with the symbol “X” for operable or “O” for fixed. The direction of swing is commonly shown on

the floor plan with the use of an arc, which represents the direction of travel.

The water and air infiltration performance of a hinged glass door depends on whether compression seals are

used around the perimeter of the sash and the height of the threshold. Hinged glass doors shall not be confused

with "Storefront" and "Entrance" doors, or all glass doors used in commercial storefront applications.

Figure 5-1 Hinged Glass Doors

5.2 Dual Action Hinged Glass Doors

A dual action hinged glass door consists of one or more glazed panels in a single frame. The term "dual action" is

based on the operation of the door. Special hardware is supplied within the sash that allows the door panel to

function in two modes- swinging and hopper. By rotating the door handle in one direction, the door can be

unlocked and swung inward much like a standard hinged glass door. After closing and locking the door, the

handle can be rotated to a different position to operate the sash in the ventilation mode by tilting it in, away from

the top, like a project-in vent.

X X O O

AAMA CIM-XX, Draft #X, Dated X/X/15 Page 5-1

Manufacturers offer variations of these doors, including single and double doors, with one or both sash operating.

The hardware generally is arranged to offer multi-point locking locations around the perimeter of the door.

Because of the number of locking points and the fact that many of these doors are typically compression sealed,

they generally offer very tight air infiltration values and can often be tested to high water performance levels.

5.3 Sliding Glass Doors

Sliding glass doors consist of one or more glass panels contained in frames that, in turn, are contained within an

overall frame designed so that one or more of the panels are movable in a horizontal direction. The movable

panels have rollers, which are designed to allow for easy movement.

Sliding glass doors are adjustable and can be arranged in a number of different combinations based on the

number of fixed and operable panels, and how the panels open. The height of the sliding glass door sill can have

an impact on the water performance of the system. When installing a sliding glass door, remember to consider the

height of the threshold and whether a ramp will be needed to allow for wheel chair access.

In Figure 5-2, "X's" and "O's" are used to show which panel is operable and which is fixed. The symbol "X"

represents an operable panel and the "O" indicates a fixed panel.

Whenever specifying sliding glass doors, be sure to indicate which panels are operable and which are fixed,

based on how they are viewed from the exterior. Additionally, an arrow typically represents the direction of slide

when the operable sash is opened.

Figure 5-2 Sliding Glass Doors

5.4 Miscellaneous Door Hardware

Numerous types of hardware are used for door operation and locking. There are many examples of the more

common types of hardware installers might find in the field, they are too numerous to show here.

Notes:

__________________________________________________________________________________________

O

O

X

X


__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

_


Table of Contents

6.1 Using Accessories ......................................................................................................................................1

6.2 Panning .......................................................................................................................................................1

6.3 Subsills........................................................................................................................................................2

6.4 Receptors ...................................................................................................................................................3

6.5 Interior Trim ................................................................................................................................................4

6.6 Stool Trim and Sill Members ......................................................................................................................5

6.7 Flashing Materials .......................................................................................................................................6

6.8 Cladding ......................................................................................................................................................6

6.9 Installation Clips/Angles..............................................................................................................................7

6.10 Mullion Clips............................................................................................................................................8

6.11 Mounting Clips or Brackets .....................................................................................................................8

6.12 Integral Ventilating Systems ...................................................................................................................9

6.13 Sash Dividers/Grids/Muntins ............................................................................................................... 10

6.14 Mullion Covers ..................................................................................................................................... 10

6.15 Expanders and Sill Angles ................................................................................................................... 11

6.16 Vertical and Horizontal Mullions .......................................................................................................... 12

6.17 Corner Mullions .................................................................................................................................... 13

6.18 Window Washing Bolts ........................................................................................................................ 14






6.0 Accessory Items and special features

Special accessories are often used to facilitate installation. Accessory items include pre-designed members to

accommodate transitions and allow for movement, and can be used to cover existing building components, allow

for ease of installation, and provide a finished condition after installation. Accessory items can be purchased in

various materials and finishes. Because accessory items may be designed by the manufacturer for specific

applications, consult the manufacturer about the proper use of these products. The following sections provide

general terms and descriptions of how accessory items are used.

6.1 Using Accessories

Accessory items, such as panning and trim, receptors, and subsills are generally not included with the window or

door unless part of the contract. The person ordering the windows and doors must make the decision regarding

whether accessory items are needed to facilitate installation or provide the look the customer desires. If accessory

items are needed, order them at the same time the windows or doors are ordered.

Over the years, special conditions and job requirements have dictated the use of accessories. In the early years

of their development, most accessories were made in the field from coil stock and sheet materials. As the need

for these materials increased, many manufacturers developed standard accessory shapes to meet the demand.

The definitions of accessory items can have different meanings to different users, depending on their background

and their area of construction expertise. To reduce misunderstanding, various items are defined in the following

sections.

6.2 Panning

Panning materials used in commercial construction are used on the exterior of windows and doors for both new

construction and replacement work. In replacement installations, panning materials typically cover existing wood

molding or trim and are often designed to provide the same profiles as the materials they cover.

Panning is generally used around the entire perimeter of the window opening and is either pre-attached to the

new window frame (called wrap-around panning) or installed to the existing opening prior to window installation

(called pre-set panning). These types of panning (see Figure 6-1) will typically be supplied in an extruded form

and are often available in a number of sizes and shapes. When panning is desired, consult with the manufacturer

to determine what profiles are offered.

The seal between the panning and the window must maintain the performance level of the project. Sealing is

generally accomplished by the use of gaskets, sealant or a combination of the two. Always assemble and seal the

panning and window as recommended by the manufacturer. Manufacturers often have detailed assembly and

installation instructions that must be followed.


Figure 6-1 Common Panning Shapes

6.3 Subsills

The term "subsill" in commercial applications refers to a member that is used under windows and doors as an

integral part of the installation (see Figure 6-2). Subsills are available in a number of sizes and shapes. Always

use end dams when using subsills for maximum performance. End dams are an essential part of the water

performance integrity of the subsill system. The subsill and end dam must be high enough to maintain the

performance level of the project. In commercial applications, subsills are most often used to facilitate anchorage

and water drainage.

Attachment through any sill cavity is typically discouraged; however, the use of a subsill offers advantages when

anchoring. By using anchor clips or extended flanges, the subsill can be shimmed level and attached in place.

This makes working with multiple windows easier because the subsill can offer a continuous, level track for

installation of the windows or doors.


Figure 6-2 Typical Subsill with End Dam and Extruded Anchor Clip

6.4 Receptors

Receptors, also known as “Comp Channels,” are generally one- or two-piece extruded members used at the head

and jambs of windows and doors to allow for building movement, product expansion and contraction, and to

facilitate the installation of the window head and jambs. Receptors are usually shaped like a channel and typically

include gaskets, which form a compression seal against the framing system (see Figure 6-3). Like subsills,

receptors offer the advantage of a continuous track, which is ideal in multiple window configurations.

Because of their design and placement, receptors facilitate the installation of the window head and jambs. The

receptor is generally shimmed and attached in place, allowing for a sealant joint between the side opposite the

window and the building condition.

Receptors are often used to allow for building movement at the head of an assembly. Live load movement from

the floor above can often exceed the designed movement of a typical sealant joint. The receptor system allows for

more movement, without disturbing the sealant joint.


Figure 6-3 Various Types of Receptors

6.5 Interior Trim

Interior trim is generally used to finish off, or "trim out," the interior side of the opening. Most common to

commercial applications is extruded aluminum trim, usually manufactured in two pieces, which can be snapped

together to form a rectangle or square (see Figure 6-4). Aluminum Interior trim can often be provided in a number

of profiles that resemble the old trim that has been removed in replacement work. Trim clips can either be

supplied in short sections (non-continuous trim clips) or continuous pieces (known as continuous trim clips).

In commercial applications, trim is often used as a device for anchoring the window to the building condition. If the

trim is at least two pieces, the first piece can be applied to both the existing condition and the new window frame.

The second piece is snapped over the first, hiding any fasteners from view.

Figure 6-4 Various Types of Interior Trim


6.6 Stool Trim and Sill Members

The terms "stool trim" and "sill members" are often confused. Stools are components that are used on the interior,

while sills are used on the exterior. The two are distinctly different components, and have different meanings and

uses.

Stool trim is made of a number of materials, including aluminum, vinyl, wood and marble (see Figure 6-5). The

purpose of stool trim is typically to finish off the interior stool condition. This component usually creates the

transition between the interior finishes and the window. End caps and sealant are commonly used to finish off the

ends and joints, allowing for a visually appealing appearance.

Sill members are used on the exterior of windows and often close off joints in the exterior sill condition (see Figure

6-6). In commercial applications, for example, if a brick veneer wall system is used, extruded sill members are

often installed to close off the cavity between the brick and the wall framing.

Sill members can have an impact on the water and air infiltration performance of an installation. Always install

subsills carefully, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Sill members must include a slope toward the

exterior to facilitate positive drainage. Always include proper sealant selection, joint design and installation

techniques that will not degrade the performance expectations of the window assembly when installing subsills.

Figure 6-5 Examples of Stool Trim


Figure 6-6 Example of a Sill Member

6.7 Flashing Materials

The term "flashing" has a number of different meanings, depending on how the flashing is used and designed.

Flashing is typically used to prevent water from penetrating the building envelope.

Flashing is typically used at the perimeter of a windows/door and is made from a water-resistant or water-

impermeable material, such as aluminum, copper or stainless steel. These materials are formed into shapes to

control and divert water. For materials that are acceptable for use as flashing, see Chapter 13, Section 13.3.

Be certain that any flashing used at the sill condition does not compromise the thermal barrier in areas where cold

temperatures can be expected.

6.8 Cladding

Cladding is typically used to close off or cover openings. These pieces generally cover areas that would require

an accessory too large to make into an extrusion, or they may be unusual shapes that are not stocked by the

manufacturer. Cladding is usually made from sheets of finished aluminum; however, other materials may be used.

Proper design and fabrication of cladding is essential to good performance on the wall.. On exterior applications,

only use cladding material that is thick enough to resist "oil canning," or deformation caused by expansion and

contraction. The number of bends and the girth of the shape will determine the proper thickness of the stock used.


If the ends of these components are used adjacent to sealant joints, the ends should be folded over or capped to

allow for proper joint design and backer rod support (see Figure 6-7).

When lengths require splice joints, follow the recommended sealant joint design information shown in Chapter 13,

Section 13.5. When cladding materials are used to cover large voids, the voids should be loosely filled with batt

insulation to maintain the thermal integrity of the completed installation.

Figure 6-7 Cladding with End Caps

6.9 Installation Clips/Angles

An installation clip, or angle, is a piece of material (usually aluminum or steel) used to attach the window into

position. Special clips are often extruded and specially fabricated for this purpose (see Figure 6-8).

Generally, when building movement is a concern, the clips will be slotted to allow for movement and adjustment.


Figure 6-8 Examples Clip Angles

6.10 Mullion Clips

"Mullion clips" are retainers used to bind two or more windows together into a single, combination unit.

6.11 Mounting Clips or Brackets

"Mounting clips," or "brackets," also referred to as "twist anchors” or “strap anchors,” are brackets that attach to

the window or door frame to provide an anchoring device (see Figure 6-9).

These anchors are commonly made of thin gage galvanized steel. Because they are thin gage, the installer can

typically bend or form them to the desired shape. These clips are often fabricated and pre-punched in the factory

to allow for attachment. Nails or screws are installed through the bracket into the substrate, eliminating the need

for anchoring directly through the window frame.


Figure 6-9 Examples of Mounting Clips

6.12 Integral Ventilating Systems

With today's tighter buildings, providing for sufficient ventilation is part of most new building codes. In order to

ensure that an adequate amount of outdoor air is provided (without depending on the occupants to open

windows), some specifiers require windows with integral ventilators (see Figure 6-10). These ventilators are

essentially air slots through the top, bottom or side of the window frame, with screens and flaps to keep out the

bugs and rain. Occupants can adjust the opening to control the amount of airflow.

Integral ventilators are also sometimes used to provide an inlet for air when exhaust fans are running in a room.

This prevents the room from becoming depressurized as the fan draws out stale, humid or polluted air.


Figure 6-10 Integral Ventilating System

6.13 Sash Dividers/Grids/Muntins

"Sash dividers," "grids" and "muntins" are the dividers commonly used when replacing "old-style," historical and/or

colonial windows. Typically, the existing sash was made up of several lites of glass separated by grids and

muntins. Many building owners today want to recreate that look when replacing their old windows.

Some manufacturers make "true divided lite" (TDL) windows using several small panels of insulated double glass.

Glass is installed between dividing crossbars called "muntins." Many manufacturers recreate the divided look by

using full pieces of glazing and either placing a grid between two panes of glass or attaching a grid on the inside

and/or outside surface of the window.

6.14 Mullion Covers

When working with existing mullion conditions, mullion covers are often used to cover over the existing frame.

Mullion covers can be used with or without panning, and are typically snapped over a pre-attached pressure plate

(see Figure 6-12).


Figure 6-12 Mullion Covers

6.15 Expanders and Sill Angles

Some transitions between the window and the existing frame require more material than available in a common

extrusion. These instances often require the use of an expander or sill angle

The expander is an accessory that is compressed over an existing flange on the window or panning shape. This

accessory can be field trimmed or scribed to suite the condition (see Figure 6-13).

Sill angles are similar in design, but they are more commonly used to provide a return leg to back up the caulk

joint. In either case, the expander/sill angle is sealed to the condition and to the window/panning in order to resist

water penetration.


Figure 6-13 Expanders and Sill Angles

6.16 Vertical and Horizontal Mullions

A variety of mullions are available for use on commercial jobs. Mullions can be used in horizontal and vertical

applications (see Figure 6-14), but they are designed differently for each application. Mullions come in three

variations:

• Horizontal stack or vertical stack mullions typically used in a horizontal or vertical position to stack one frame

on top of (or against) one another. There are two variations of stack mullions, those with “zero-sightlines” and

those that are “H-MillionsMullions.”

• Male/female mullions may be used in either horizontal or vertical applications to join two opposing frames

together.

• Three-piece mullions with pressure plates and covers, which are often structural mullions designed to carry

the loads imposed by the window/door frames.


Figure 6-14 Common Mullion Types

6.17 Corner Mullions

Corner mullions are made to handle transitions at the corners. Although almost any shape is possible, the more

common designs are for inside and outside 90º and 135º corners.

Always attach corner frames securely into position at the head and sill condition in order to carry the load imposed

on the mullion by the opposing frames (see Figure 6-15).


Figure 6-15 Examples of Corner Mullions

6.18 Window Washing Bolts

Window washing bolts are used to allow the maintenance crew (window washers) to attach their belts or

harnesses to a secure attachment. Often required by code, these bolts are used as a safety device when cleaning

windows on a high-rise building.

A number of varieties are available and will depend on the desired design, building condition and the load

requirements. It is important to attach the window washer bolts securely through the building frame in accordance

with the manufacturer’s instructions (see Figure 6-16).


Figure 6-16 Example of One Type of Washer Bolt Attachment

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

_


Table of Contents

7.1 Performance Requirements and Testing ....................................................................................................1

7.2 Specific and Optional Performance Requirements ....................................................................................2

7.3 Verification of Performance/ AAMA Certification Labels ............................................................................2

7.4 Field Testing of Installed Units ...................................................................................................................5

7.5 Field Testing of Accessories .......................................................................................................................5






7.0 Performance Requirements

7.1 Performance Requirements and Testing

A material-neutral, standard/specification has been developed through the joint efforts of the members of the

American Architectural Manufacturers Association (AAMA), Window and Door Manufacturers Association

(WDMA) and Canadian Standards Association (CSA). This chapter provides a brief overview of the standard and

how it applies to commercial windows and doors.

At the time of this writing, the most recent standard/specification used by the window and door industry to

establish the minimum performance requirements of windows and doors is known as AAMA/WDMA/CSA

101/I.S.2/A440-11 and is titled “North American Fenestration Standard/ Specification for Windows, Doors, and

Skylights”.

Many of the industry's manufacturers voluntarily subject their products to the testing outlined by the standard.

Certifying to this standard indicates that an independent, accredited testing laboratory has certified that a tested

sample has met the performance criteria for the performance class and grade desired.

The product tested must meet specific performance requirements. There are four mandatory primary performance

requirements. They are:

1. Structural adequacy to withstand wind loads

2. Resistance to water leakage

3. Resistance to air infiltration

4. Forced-entry resistance

The standard establishes levels of performance for various types of windows and doors. Successfully meeting

these requirements provides a "gateway," or passport, into one of the four performance classifications below:

R

LC

CW

AW

The performance grade criteria for these products are shown below (see Table 7-1).


Product

performance

class

Minimum

performance

grade (PG)

Minimum design

pressure (DP),

Pa (psf)

Minimum structural test

pressure (STP),

Pa (psf)

Minimum water

resistance test

pressure, Pa (psf)

Windows and doors

R 15 720 (15.0) 1080 (22.5) 140 (2.90)

LC 25 1200 (25.0) 1800 (37.5) 180 (3.75)

CW 30 1440 (30.0) 2160 (45.0) 220 (4.50)

AW 40 1920 (40.0) 2880 (60.0) 390 (8.00)

Unit skylights, tubular daylighting devices, and roof windows

R 15 720 (15.0) 1440 (30.0) 140 (2.90)

CW 30 1440 (30.0) 2880 (60.0) 220 (4.50)

Table 7-1 Performance Criteria per Table 1 of AAMA/WDMA/CSA 101/I.S. 2/A440-0811

7.2 Specific and Optional Performance Requirements

In order for a product to be classified as R, LC, CW, or AW, the product must meet specific performance criteria

established by the standard. The performance standard dictates a minimum test size for each product. The

performance criteria must be met by products that claim compliance with these standards (see Table 7-1).

The minimum performance requirements are known as the "Gateway Performance Requirements." Optional

performance grades for these products are also possible. Many manufacturers opt to test their products at higher

grade levels once they meet the Gateway Performance Requirements.

7.3 Verification of Performance/ AAMA Certification Labels

After a representative sample of a manufacturer's product line has met the AAMA requirements through

performance testing and in-plant inspections, other similar products that the manufacturer produces may be

labeled with an AAMA performance label (see Figure 7-1 and Figure 7-2). The label includes a four-part code

indicating the product type (optional), performance class, performance grade and maximum size tested.

Product Type - indicates the window style, such as casement window or hinged glass doors (see Table 7-2).

Performance Class - offers a general indication of the type of building for which the window was designed. In the

example shown in Figure 7-1 and Figure 7-2, the window is rated for commercial construction and is designated

as one of the four performance classes (R, LC, CW, and AW). This classification system provides for several

levels of performance so that the purchaser or specifier is permitted to select the appropriate level of performance

depending on climatic conditions, height of installation, type of building, etc. Refer to Clause 0.2.1 of

AAMA/WDMA/CSA 101/I.S. 2/A440-08 for a general guide in determining which class is likely best suited for a

particular application.


Performance Grade - a numeric designator that defines the performance of a product. In order to obtain an AAMA

certification label, a tested sample of the product must achieve successful completion of all applicable tests

specified for the product.

Maximum size tested - shows the maximum size of the window that was tested. This may seem like a minor detail

when looking at a window's rating, but the size of the window can have a significant effect on its structural

capability.


Product Types

AP Awning, Hopper, Projected Window

ATD Architectural Terrace Door

BW Basement Window

C Casement Window

DASHD Dual-Action Side-Hinged Door

DAW Dual-Action Window

FD Fixed Door

FW Fixed Window

GH Greenhouse Window

H Hung Window

HE Hinged Rescue Window

HP Horizontally Pivoted Window

HS Horizontal Sliding Window

J Jalousie Window

JA Jal-Awning Window

LW DASHD Limited water Dual-Action Side-hinged Door

LW SHD Limited water Side-hinged Door

MA Mullion Assembly

POW Parallel Opening Window

RWG Roof Window – Glass Glazed

RWP Roof Window – Plastic Glazed

SD Sliding Door

SHD Side Hinged Door

SHW Side Hinged Window

SKG Unit Skylight – glass glazed

SKP Unit Skylight – plastic glazed

SLT Side lite

SP Specialty Products

SSP Secondary Storm Product

TA Tropical Awning Windows

TDDCC Tubular Daylighting Device – Closed Ceiling

TDDOC Tubular Daylighting Device – Open Ceiling

TH Top Hinged Window

TR Transom

VP Vertically Pivoted Windows

VS Vertical Sliding Window

Table 7-2 Product Types per Table 5 of AAMA/WDMA/CSA 101/I.S. 2/A440-0811


7.4 Field Testing of Installed Units

Project specifications often call for field testing of installed windows and doors. Field testing can be a complex

issue and requires skilled technicians who are familiar with the testing standards, proper test methods and the

tools available to the industry for this purpose.

AAMA 502 provides industry recognized and accepted procedures for field testing. Whenever field tests are

required, they shall be conducted in accordance with AAMA 502.

Additionally, when field testing of installed windows and doors is required, it shall only be conducted by an AAMA-

accredited laboratory that regularly engages in field testing. Quite often, test labs are contracted to do this work

immediately after the contract is awarded. Using a qualified test lab will ensure all interested parties that the

proper testing methods are followed and that the results are properly documented. Installers who are involved

with the field testing process are encouraged to review the job specifications and test methods fully and

coordinate their activities with the building contractor and window/door manufacturer.

7.5 Field Testing of Accessories

One type of field test that installers can perform is to field check accessories for water leakage. Field testing of

subsills, for example, is a simple process for the installer to follow. This method of field testing can be

accomplished on a work table or pair of saw horses prior to installation. This test method will pinpoint problems

before the accessories are installed, and can help avoid future callbacks.

The process, as identified in AAMA 511, used for subsills involves taping off weep holes, filling the subsill with

water, and waiting for 15 minutes while checking for any water leakage (see Figure 7-3). By simply watching for

leaks (drips of water), the installer can determine whether the previously applied seals at the end dams are

resistant to water leakage.

Once the testing has been completed, the tape is removed, the weeps holes are reopened, and the subsill is

allowed to dry prior to final installation.

When doing a field test on an accessory item, the installer is strongly encouraged to document the results. If

water penetration occurs during the test, document where the penetration occurred and document the corrective

measures taken to remedy the problem. By understanding the corrective measures taken, the installer can give

more attention to susceptible areas during future work as the project progresses.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________


__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________

Figure 7-1 AAMA Label

Figure 7-2 Defining the AAMA Label Code

Figure 7-3 Field Testing of a Subsill, when needed

HS-C30

Comment [r1]: Update label Staff Item

Comment [r2]: Should this stay or go, applies to aluminum only. If it stays the reference to AAMA 502 should be updated


Table of Contents

8.1 Preliminary Site Inspection .........................................................................................................................1

8.1.1. Condition of the Structure ...................................................................................................................1

8.1.2. Types of Buildings and Building Components ....................................................................................2

8.1.3. Identifying the Weather Barrier Systems ............................................................................................2

8.2 Health and Safety Inspection ......................................................................................................................6

8.2.1 Hazardous Materials ...........................................................................................................................7

8.2.2 Job Site Safety Issues ..................................................................................................................... 11

8.3 Access and Barrier Issues ....................................................................................................................... 15

8.3.1 Fall Protection .................................................................................................................................. 15

8.3.2 Jobsite Access ................................................................................................................................. 16

8.4 Pre-installation Inspection........................................................................................................................ 16

8.4.1 Protecting Existing Materials ........................................................................................................... 17

8.4.2 Reporting Construction Deficiencies ............................................................................................... 18

8.4.3 Identifying and Removing Structural Components .......................................................................... 18

8.4.3.1 Checking the Details ........................................................................................................................ 18

8.5 Quality Control Inspection........................................................................................................................ 19

AAMA CIM-XX, Draft #X, Dated X/X/15 PAGE 8-i

8.0 Site Inspection & Safety

It is a good construction practice to start a project with a work-site inspection and end it with a quality control

inspection. Proper pre-planning and preparation can reduce re-work and prevent the need to remove improperly

installed products and materials.

When possible, meet with the contractor or other approving authority/authorities prior to installation of the

products. The approving authority is responsible for the coordination of the various trades.

A preliminary site inspection is helpful when determining if conditions exist that could cause problems for the

installer. During the course of the project, other inspections may be necessary, including the following:

• Health and Safety Inspection

• Preinstallation Inspection

• Quality Control Inspection (see Chapter 23)

8.1 Preliminary Site Inspection

Before starting a job, conduct a preliminary site inspection. Sample site inspection forms are provided for both

replacement work and new construction at the end of this chapter.

Conduct a site inspection for both new construction and remodeling projects. Make assessments for:

• Condition of the structure

• Type of building and components

• Type of weather barrier system

• Health and safety issues

• Access and barrier issues

• Material and equipment needs

• Personnel and time requirements

• Code-related issues

8.1.1. Condition of the Structure

Always check the condition of the structure and the building substrate where window and door products will be

installed. When replacing windows and doors in an existing structure, inspect the openings to verify proper

structural conditions and check for possible structural damage, as well as other dangerous conditions. Structural

damage can affect the way a newly installed window or door will operate. A thorough check for existing structural

damage is essential, and remedy any problems before window or door installation begins. Below is a checklist for

structural conditions:

• Is the physical condition of the opening questionable? Verify that the condition of the substrate is adequate for

AAMA CIM-XX, Draft #X, Dated X/X/15 PAGE 8-1

attachment.

• Inspect the walls, floors, trim and ceilings around the windows or doors for signs of damage or deterioration.

• Is the substrate per the contract drawings?

• Report any damage or deteriorated conditions such as rotted wood, spalled concrete or corroded steel to the

contractor, building owner or approving authority.

8.1.2. Types of Buildings and Building Components

A variety of materials and methods are used in the construction of commercial buildings. Installers should already

have an understanding of the basic construction principles, materials, building practices, and barrier systems. If

not, review Chapters 1 through 7 of this manual.

8.1.3. Identifying the Weather Barrier Systems

Two different weather barrier systems are commonly used in commercial construction.

These systems are:

• Surface Barrier System; and

• Membrane/Drainage System

The surface barrier system utilizes the outermost surface of the wall as its sole barrier to shed and control water

infiltration. When water does enter behind the exterior face of this system, there is no additional means of

controlling the water and diverting it back to the outside.

The membrane/drainage system also uses the exterior surface to shed the water; however, a water resistant

barrier (WRB) (e.g., building paper, building wrap, sheathing or other water-shedding material) is located behind

the exterior surface of the building. The WRB is designed to divert any residual water that may enter penetrations

in the wall surface outward through pre-determined exit points in the building (e.g., base of wall, floor lines or

flashing points at lintels).

When installing products into retrofit/replacement applications, it is essential to clearly define and understand the

existing weather barrier. Take care to ensure that the window or door has been properly installed into the

previously designed and existing building envelope. Use caution in evaluating the connection of the window or

door to WRB so that the replacement installation does not impair the existing system from working properly (e.g.,

blocking weep holes or slots in the existing system).

In order to control water penetration from behind the WRB, these materials must be installed in weather-board

fashion, with overlapping joints at the appropriate locations. The proper installation and integration of some

materials in weather-board fashion may be difficult to accomplish without taping or overlapping the joints.

Additionally, trades other than the window/door installer apply many of these materials; therefore, the application

of these materials is beyond the scope of this manual.


Installation of windows and glass doors in membrane/drainage wall systems may require special attention and

coordination with the building contractor to ensure that the weather shedding integrity of the building is

maintained.

The construction sequence can impact the effectiveness of the weather barrier system; therefore, take care to

ensure that all components of the weather barrier system are properly integrated into the construction sequence.

The contractor and/or other approving authority is responsible for the coordination of the various trades and

products used to complete the weather barrier system.

When preparing to install products into new construction, it is essential that communication between the installer

and architect, contractor, developer, and/or other approving authority occur regarding the weather barrier system,

as well as the materials and methods used during installation. The proper selection and integration of these

materials will increase the prospect of the installation performing as expected.

Whenever possible, review drawings or details showing how the window or door will be integrated into the

building envelope, along with the various other materials. This would include sketches of how the flashing and/or

sill pan flashing, water resistive barrier, sealant, etc., integrate to form a water shedding, water resistive system.

In order to avoid the potential for long-term performance problems, the installer (and all other responsible parties)

needs to be able to look at these building types/materials and recognize when these materials are not applied (or

not applied correctly), and when it is prudent to refuse to install window/door products until deficiencies are

corrected.

Surface Barrier Systems

• A surface barrier system is a type of wall in which the outer-most, or first surface of the wall, windows, doors,

etc., is integrated together to form a water resistive wall assembly. Walls considered to be surface barrier

systems are often solid walls (e.g., single width masonry, poured concrete walls, concrete block, and others

that do not include wall cavities) with drainage planes like some types of EIFS (usually direct applied EIFS).

Additionally, other types of walls that involve wall cavities (e.g., concrete panel walls, brick veneer, etc.) that

don't include a water resistive barrier behind the exterior skin are considered surface barrier walls. Walls of

this type do not include a purposely-designed method of controlling and diverting residual water to the exterior

(see Figure 8-1).

•

Caution: Surface barrier systems require product design and installation that eliminate the introduction of water

behind the exterior plane of the outside barrier.

• Window or door products are integrated into the surface barrier system by means of a sealant joint. The

sealant joint is the sole method for joining the various materials. The joining of these materials becomes the

weather barrier (the only defense) for the completed assembly.


• Windows and doors used in surface barrier systems are designed to seal to the exterior surface and attached

to the structure through the frame, or may be installed in a receptor system, which is attached to the structure.

• Do not allow windows to extend beyond the “exterior face” of the building or beyond the exterior water barrier.

Figure 8-1 Surface Barrier Wall System

Membrane/Drainage System

• A “membrane/drainage system" is a wall that utilizes a WRB as a weather barrier behind the exterior surface

of the wall. Walls sided with some types of EIFS, stucco and brick or stone veneer are considered

membrane/drainage systems. The key to determining whether a wall is a membrane/drainage system is the

use and integration of the WRB (see Figure 8-2). Walls built with a membrane/drainage system may allow

incidental water to enter behind the outer-most surface of the building, but they are designed to control and

divert this water back out to the exterior.

• Windows and doors are just one component of the entire building. Buildings employing a membrane/ drainage

system must incorporate the "whole building concept." This concept is based on the knowledge that each

construction element may allow some minor water infiltration; therefore, the water must be controlled and

allowed to escape harmlessly.

• The whole building concept includes the use of a WRB applied in weather-board (shingled) fashion, which

allows any residual water to drain down to the base where a flashing member, screed or screen diverts it back

out.

• The integration of the window/door framing, the installation accessories, and the weather barrier is critical.

Flashing and sealant are applied to integrate the window/door and the WRB together.

• Sealing to the exterior surface (building façade) of a membrane/drainage wall may inhibit or trap water inside

the drainage plane of the wall cavity if allowance for water drainage is not considered. This could result in

water buildup and water infiltration toward the interior of the building and must be avoided.


Figure 8-2 Membrane/Drainage Wall System

EIFS and GFRC Walls

EIFS (Exterior Insulation Finish System) and GFRC (Glass Fiber Reinforced Concrete) walls can be considered

either a “surface barrier system" or a “membrane/drainage system,” depending on the manufacturer and the

design of their product.

EIFS systems (see Figure 8-3) are proprietary and may not be compatible with all types of windows and doors,

flashing systems and sealants. Work with the approving authority to verify the requirements of the window/door,

flashing, sealant and EIFS suppliers to ensure the compatibility of these materials in the completed assembly. If

conflicts exist, seek written direction from the approving authority on how to proceed with the work.

• Drainable EIFS walls require a water resistive barrier over the sheathing, which allows the system to be

mechanically attached through the barrier into the supporting wall structure. A drainage plane can be

introduced by placing a plastic mesh between the EIFS and the water resistive barrier. Weep holes or

drainage tracks installed at the bottom of the walls and the floor lines eliminate the buildup of incidental water,

permitting it to drain to the exterior. Install flashing at the lintels in such a way as to allow for termination of the

WRB so incidental water can drain out at the head condition.

• Wall systems that do not incorporate a WRB (such as building wrap or building paper) behind the exterior

face to allow for drainage must be treated as a surface barrier system. Barrier EIFS walls that are recognized

as a surface barrier system must incorporate flashing at the head and sill condition.


• The general contractor (GC) or construction manager (CM) must coordinate with the window/door installer

and the EIFS cladding supplier and architect to obtain information regarding the type of EIFS system to be

installed in order to determine the appropriate method of installing the windows and doors and related flashing

materials.

Figure 8-3 Exterior Insulation Finish System (EIFS)

8.2 Health and Safety Inspection

Contractors and installers are required to comply with Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)

Standards (29CRF Parts 1910 and 1926) if they have employees; OSHA requires all employers to provide a safe

and healthy workplace for their employees. In addition to OSHA's requirements, it is also important to protect the

occupants from health and safety hazards, as well as to protect their possessions from damage resulting from the

installation process.

Health and safety on the job site are very important. Over 90 percent of construction-related major accidents are

the result of four factors:

1. Falls (from heights)

2. Electrocutions

3. Crushing injuries (i.e., trench cave-ins)

4. Being struck by equipment or materials

On the job, a little caution and care can go a long way. Make health and safety awareness a habit. Workers can

avoid most accidents by using common sense, working at a reasonable pace, and maintaining constant

awareness of their surroundings.


Contractors and/or installers can maintain a safe and healthy workplace by conducting a health and safety

inspection of the work site before, and during, each job.

When health and safety issues are discovered, a competent person must remedy them before starting work.

Inspect the site for:

1. Hazardous Materials

• Lead-based paint

• Asbestos-containing materials

• Other chemicals

2. Hazardous Conditions

• Exposure to walkways above pedestrians

• Unprotected floor lines

• Broken glass

• Low electrical lines

• Trash and debris

• Trenches or holes on the building site and/or floor spaces

• Insect nests

8.2.1 Hazardous Materials

When working on older buildings, installers may encounter a number of hazardous materials. Two of the most

common hazardous materials are lead-based paint and asbestos-containing materials; this is particularly

important when considering sealant removal as both lead-based paint and asbestos-containing materials may be

present.

Whenever possible, the installer should consider “jumping over” the existing sealant line in order to avoid

disturbing both the existing paint and seal.

Lead-Based Paint (LBP)

Lead-based paint was banned from use on residential structures after 1978; however, it’s still allowed to be used

on commercial and industrial structures. Studies of leaded paint on older buildings found that exterior wooden

components, such as windows, doors, siding and trim, may contain higher lead levels than other building

components.

Guidelines for working on building components coated with lead-based paints have been developed by the U.S.

Departments of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). It is

recommended that research be performed to be sure that the most current requirements are followed.


Installers are required by federal law to provide customers/building owners with a copy of an EPA #747-K-99-001,

entitled “Protect Your Family from Lead in Your Home,” if they disturb more than 2 sq. ft. of lead-based paint on

the interior, or 10 sq. ft. on the exterior. Additional information can be obtained from the following website:

www.hud.gov/offices/lead/outreach/communityoutreach.cfm.

In the workplace, OSHA's “Lead in Construction Standard” (1926.62) and “Hazardous Communication Standard”

(1926.59) require employers to address lead exposure and train their workers on how to handle leaded materials.

Be aware that a number of states and local jurisdictions may have instituted their own lead regulations which

differ from the federal requirements (see Figure 8-4).

Figure 8-4 Safely Working with Lead-Based Paint

To reduce the workers’ and occupants' potential for danger due to exposure, test all painted building components

that will be disturbed for the presence of lead before they are worked on.

In lieu of testing, one can assume that all pre-1978 structures contain lead-based paints and work accordingly.

OSHA does not require the testing of coated surfaces, but it does require the monitoring of workers for exposure

to lead and asbestos.

The installer can consult with the contractor about providing the necessary safeguards. The following

suggestions are offered as tips on handling lead-based paint.

1. Do not turn leaded paint into leaded dust.

2. Do not dry scrape, sand, or plane lead-based paint unless using a heat gun that operates below 1100°F.

Instead, use wet sanding, scraping, or planing methods (see Figure 8-5).

3. Use a utility knife to score painted joints between jambs, trim, and walls.

4. Do not use open-flame burning or torching techniques.

5. Do not machine sand or grind, or conduct abrasive blasting or sandblasting of lead-based paint unless used

with a High Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filter exhaust control system.

6. Confine dust and debris to as small an area as possible by containing it. Use 6 mil polyethylene disposable

plastic drop cloths under all areas where moderate-to-high levels of leaded dust may be generated.

7. Do not smoke, eat, drink or chew tobacco or gum while working with leaded materials.

8. Do not allow children or pets in the work area until the work is finished and the area has been thoroughly

cleaned.


9. Whenever possible, do not cut lead-painted materials (doors, jambs, windows, etc.) inside a building or

apartment.

10. Do not leave any debris that the occupants will have to remove.

11. Do not use the occupants' brooms, dustpans or vacuum cleaners.

12. Do not take the dust generated on the job home! Change work clothes and shoes before going home.

13. Keep work areas as free as possible from dust and debris—keep it clean! Dispose of leaded material in 6 mil

polyethylene bags.

14. Do not track dust around the building where the work is being done. Place 6 mil poly sheeting along the

pathway from the exterior of the unit to the work area to reduce contamination on the floor.

15. Use a High Efficiency Particulate Air filter (HEPA) vacuum to clean up dust/debris.

16. Wet-clean the work area with an appropriate detergent after it has been HEPA vacuumed

17. Use HEPA vacuum attachments on tools that generate dust.

Figure 8-5 Lead Precautions

Asbestos Containing Materials (ACM)

Both the EPA and OSHA regulate disturbing and/or demolishing ACM.

Treat ACM the same as lead-based paint in terms of inspection, work-site preparation, disturbance, and clean up.

Consult with the contractor about taking the following precautions when disturbing joint compounds that may

contain asbestos:


1. Verify that the building has been tested for asbestos before disturbing a potential asbestos containing

material. A certified inspector is required to send "grab samples" to an accredited asbestos testing laboratory

to determine the asbestos content.

2. Place a layer of 6-mil plastic (poly) at least 6 ft in every direction around the window on which you are

working.

3. If a significant amount of dust will be generated, a containment system will have to be installed around the

window.

4. Always wet the asbestos-containing material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent

before, and while, you are disturbing it.

5. Use a utility knife to score the joint between trim and walls before removing the window trim. This will reduce

breakage and pulverization of the wall material.

6. Do not dust, sweep, or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos. These steps will disturb tiny asbestos

fibers and may release them into the air.

7. Remove dust by vacuuming with a HEPA vacuum cleaner.

8. If the floor can be mopped, wet mop around the window and the pathway in and out of the building which

workers use.

Other Chemical/Material Hazards

There are other potentially hazardous chemicals used on window installation jobs. The “Hazardous

Communication (HazCom) Standard” (1926.59) requires all employers to review the Material Safety Data Sheets

(MSDS) for every chemical used on the job. Review MSDS for sealants with workers before the products are

used.

To obtain an MSDS for sealants, primers, solvents and other products, call the material manufacturer. Often

suppliers have the MSDS but fail to provide them to the purchasers.

California installers must also comply with Proposition 65 chemical and notification requirements.

Respirators

Respirators are commonly issued by employers to their employees to protect them from known and/or unknown

hazards. OSHA considers respirators as the "last line of defense" on the work site. Therefore, a respirator is the

last line of safety to be issued to reduce employee hazards; all other hazard-reduction measures must be

instituted first to control hazards before relying on a respirator to protect an employee.

For an employer to issue a respirator, the conditions of OSHA's “Respirator Standard” (29CFR 1910.139) must be

met. The “Respirator Standard” does not allow the issuance of respirators, which include dust masks as well as

standard respirators, without an employer conducting the proper assessments, a written respirator protection

program, and employee training. Both the lead and asbestos standards require atmospheric monitoring to

determine appropriate respirator usage.


8.2.2 Job Site Safety Issues

Working safely with safe equipment is a must—not only for workers' safety, but also for the safety of occupants

and others at the job site. Use only tools and equipment that are maintained in a safe and hazard-free condition.

Equipment Safety

When setting up temporary portable tools and equipment, assume they will be used long-term. When installing

equipment, always set it up on secure footing, taking the extra precautions necessary to insure that it is on solid

ground and firmly planted. Apply all equipment locks and pins during the initial setup and do not remove them for

any reason until disassembly. Never take setting up equipment for granted; the installers’ safety and the safety of

others depend on proper use.

Electrical Safety

Review OSHA electrical safety suggestions and the six tips below:

1. Use a ground fault circuit interrupter when running power cords outside.

2. Use grounded power cords.

3. Make sure that extension cords have the capacity to handle the amperage draw of the power tool, and never

use an extension cord longer than 100 ft.

4. Before working on or adjusting power tools, unplug them.

5. When electrical equipment or circuits are de-energized in order to be worked on, they must be locked out and

tagged at all points where the equipment or circuits can be energized. Follow OSHA's lockout and tagging

procedures.

6. Make sure all power tools are in proper working condition before they are used.

Tool Safety

Improper and careless tool usage can cause injuries. All workers must be properly trained on each tool they use.

1. Match the tool with the job. (Pliers make terrible hammers.)

2. Inspect tools regularly. Repair or replace defective equipment.

3. Transport tools carefully.

4. Use the safety equipment that comes with the tools. Leave the guards in place; do not remove or disable

them.

5. Always wear safety glasses or goggles with anything that generates flying objects.

6. Use appropriate caution when working in situations where tools can be dropped on the public below or

expose the public to unexpected hazards.


Accessibility Safety

Installers must have safe access to windows and doors. Performing a thorough inspection of openings will allow

the installer to decide what equipment will be needed to install products safely in each opening.

One of the first questions an installer must ask is whether the window or door opening is accessible. This factor is

very important when working with windows and doors, especially on multistory buildings. When working on

windows from the inside, make sure that there is sufficient room to do the job. To protect the occupant's

belongings and provide room to work, make sure the owner has cleared an area around the opening and a

pathway to the opening.

Evaluate the height above the ground or other fixed work areas, and accessibility of building openings to

determine the appropriate use of scaffolding and ladders per OSHA guidelines. Use scaffolding, power lifts or

swing staging when working on buildings higher than one story to provide a safe work place.Scaffolding and

Ladder Use

This reference manual does not address all of the rules for the proper use of scaffolding and ladders. Always use

this equipment as directed by the manufacturer. Scaffolding and ladders are intended to be used in specific ways

and include guidelines appropriate to their use in a safe and effective manner. When manufacturers' information is

not available, consult OSHA specifications for proper use. Consider the following supplemental guidelines when

using ladders or scaffolding.

Familiarize yourself and your employees with the provisions of OSHA's “Scaffolding Standard” (3150, 2002

Revised). Eleven key provisions from the document are listed:


OSHA 3150

1. Fall protection is required on scaffolding for a 10 foot height above a lower level, 6 foot on other surfaces.

2. Guardrail height—The height of the top rail for scaffolds manufactured and placed in service before

January 1, 2000, can be between 36 inches (0.9 m) and 45 inches (1.2 m). The height of the top rail for

scaffolds manufactured and placed in service after January 1, 2000, must be between 38 inches (0.97 m)

and 45 inches (1.2 m).

3. When the cross-point of cross-bracing is used as a top rail, it must be between 38 inches (0.97 m) and 48

inches (1.3 m) above the work platform.

4. Support scaffold footings should be level and capable of supporting the loaded scaffold. The legs, poles,

frames, and uprights should bear on base plates and mud sills.

5. Supported scaffold platforms should be fully planked or decked.

6. Guying ties, braces, or the equivalent must be used on supported scaffolds with a height-to-base

measurement of more than 4:1 so that it is restrained from tipping.

7. Scaffolds and scaffold components must support at least 4 times the maximum intended load. Suspension

scaffold rigging must be able to support at least 6 times the intended load.

8. Midrails must be installed approximately halfway between the top rail and the platform surface. When a

cross-point or cross-bracing is used as a midrail, it must be between 20 inches (0.5 m) and 30 inches (0.8

m) above the work platform.

9. Erecting and Dismantling—When erecting and dismantling supported scaffolds, a competent person must

determine the feasibility of providing a safe means of access and fall protection for these operations.

10. Training—Employers must train each employee who works on a scaffold on the hazards and the

procedures to control the hazards.

11. Inspections—Before each work shift, and after any occurrence that could affect the structural integrity, a

competent person must inspect the scaffold and scaffold components for visible defects.

Scaffold Capacity Requirements

Consult OSHA guidelines before starting the design of scaffolding. Listed below are four helpful hints when

considering scaffolding capacity:

1. Each scaffold and scaffold component must support, without failure, its own weight and at least four times the

maximum intended load applied or transmitted to it.

2. Only load scaffolding in accordance with a scaffolding design developed by a qualified scaffold designer.

3. Scaffolds and scaffold components must not be loaded in excess of their maximum intended loads or rated

capacities, whichever is less.

4. Load-carrying timber members shall be a minimum of 1,500 lbf/in2 construction grade lumber.


Use of Ladders

1. When portable ladders are used for access to an upper-landing surface, the side rails must extend at least 3

feet (.9 m) above the upper-landing surface. When such an extension is not possible, the ladder must be

secured and a grasping device such as a grab rail must be provided to assist workers in mounting and

dismounting the ladder. A ladder extension must not deflect under a load that would cause the ladder to slip

off its supports.

2. Ladders must be maintained free of oil, grease, and other slipping hazards.

3. Ladders must not be loaded beyond the maximum intended load for which they were built or beyond their

manufacturer's rated capacity.

4. Ladders must be used only for the purpose for which they were designed.

5. Non-self-supporting ladders must be used at an angle where the horizontal distance from the top support to

the foot of the ladder is approximately one-quarter of the working length of the ladder. Wood job-made

ladders with spliced side rails must be used at an angle where the horizontal distance is one-eighth the

working length of the ladder.

6. Fixed ladders must be used at a pitch no greater than 90 degrees from the horizontal, measured from the

back side of the ladder.

7. Ladders must be used only on stable and level surfaces unless secured to prevent accidental movement.

8. Ladders must not be used on slippery surfaces unless secured or provided with slip-resistant feet to prevent

accidental movement. Slip-resistant feet must not be used as a substitute for care in placing, lashing, or

holding a ladder upon slippery surfaces.

9. Ladders placed in areas such as passageways, doorways, driveways, or where they can be displaced by

workplace activities or traffic must be secured to prevent accidental movement or a barricade must be used

to keep traffic or activities away from the ladder.

10. The area around the top and bottom of the ladders must be kept clear.

11. The top of a non-self-supporting ladder must be placed with two rails supported equally unless it is equipped

with a single-support attachment.

12. Ladders must not be moved, shifted, or extended while in use.

13. Ladders must have non-conductive side rails if they are used where the worker or the ladder could contact

exposed energized electrical equipment.

14. The top or top step of a stepladder must not be used as a step.

15. Cross-bracing on the rear section of stepladders must not be used for climbing unless the ladders are

designed and provided with steps for climbing on both front and rear sections.

16. Ladders must be inspected by a competent person for visible defects on a periodic basis and after any

incident that could affect their safe use.

17. Single-rail ladders must not be used.

18. When ascending or descending a ladder, the worker must face the ladder.

19. Each worker must use at least one hand to grasp the ladder when climbing.


20. A worker on a ladder must not carry any object or load that could cause him/her to lose balance and fall.

21. Generally it is a good idea to tie off the top and base.

8.3 Access and Barrier Issues

Prior to coordinating the work for any project, the contractor/employer needs to determine what kind of access

and/or barrier issues exist that are pertinent to the installation of commercial windows and doors. This involves

determining the measures that are necessary to perform the work in a safe and effective manner for both the

installer and the general public.

8.3.1 Fall Protection

OSHA 3146-1998 Revised “Fall Protection in Construction” provides a host of guidelines relative to fall hazards

and protection from falling objects. This manual is not meant to cover all of the issues relative to fall protection,

but outlines the concerns so that installers are aware of the hazards.

OSHA reports that falls are the leading cause of worker fatalities. Each year, according to the OSHA report, an

average of between 150 and 200 workers are killed, while more than 100,000 are injured due to construction site

falls.

The provisions covered under the standard include:

• The duty to provide fall protection

• Criteria and practices for fall protection systems

• Hazard assessment

• Fall protection and safety monitoring systems

• Controlled access zones

• Safety nets and guardrails

• Personal fall arrest systems

• Warning lines and barriers

•

Train and educate yourself and your employees to protect themselves and others from possible injury due to falls

and falling objects. For more information on training, contact:

OSHA Training Institute

Office of Training and Education

2020 South Arlington Heights Road

Arlington Heights, Illinois 60005-4102

(847) 297-4810


8.3.2 Jobsite Access

Although typically not a safety issue, jobsite access can be a problem when it comes to material delivery.

Installers should check the perimeter of the building in order to determine parking and unloading constraints. This

is particularly important in cities where parking and access are at a premium, as it may determine when deliveries

can be made. The route taken to deliver is also critical. Check for height restrictions and overhead obstructions

that may cause problems for delivery.

Although parking is probably the last thing that might be thought about, it may be a critical factor to installers and

their ability to be effective. Always determine in advance where parking is permissible in order to avoid job costs

that were not considered during the bidding stages. As parking may change over the course of the job due to the

kind of work that is being performed, always stay in touch with the contractor for the latest requirements as they

relate to worker parking and delivery parking.

Elevator and hoist access is also a critical issue when unloading materials. Whenever possible, try to coordinate

these activities with the contractor in order to avoid jobsite delivery problems and delays. Also consider the

necessity of installing products in hoist bays at a later time, when equipment is removed, allowing access to the

openings.

Elevator access and size can play a critical role in determining how materials will be delivered. Many times the

elevator is designed to carry personnel, not materials or equipment. The size of the elevator and your access for

use may actually determine the shipping length of accessories, like subsills and receptors. As an example, if the

maximum diagonal dimension from corner to corner inside the elevator is 18 ft, a 20ft box of trim will have to be

hoisted another way. Determining these factors in advance of material delivery can be a critical factor in getting

the work started.

8.4 Pre-installation Inspection

A pre-installation inspection differs from a preliminary inspection in that all the materials and installation methods

have been decided upon based on the preliminary inspection. The pre-installation inspection usually occurs when

the installation crew arrives and involves an inspection of each opening. As part of the inspection:

1. Identify any unsafe building components, protruding nails and other structural hazards.

2. Check the structural soundness of the sill, head and jambs.

3. Check the opening for plumb, level, and square, and check rough opening dimensions.

4. Look for obvious signs of moisture (see Figure 8-6) before replacing windows and doors. Check doors,

windows and the adjacent walls for evidence of damage from condensation or water leakage, as indicated by:

• Water stains, mold or mildew. This can be evident by sight or by smell.

• Stains and/or flaking at head of the old window.

• Staining or loose finish on the window frame.

• Stains below the corner of the opening, on the wall.

• Wet carpet or stains on the floor below or to the side of the opening.


• Ceiling or upper wall stains from the floor level above the opening.

Figure 8-6 Signs of Water Penetration

8.4.1 Protecting Existing Materials

When replacing windows and doors, installers must take extra precautions to protect the customer's furnishings,

floors and wall treatments.

• Place clean plastic drop cloths or other suitable covering materials over furnishings and on the floor to avoid

damaging them.

• Do not remove windows or doors unless they can be replaced the same day. Inclement weather can be a

primary source of damage to the existing construction and interior furnishings; therefore, never leave the

interior of the building exposed for extended periods of time.

• In apartment buildings, be sure to coordinate the schedule for installation of the products with the building

occupants, or property manager, prior to entry.

Safety is also an important consideration when removing existing windows and doors.


• Erect barriers around exterior walkways, patios and other areas of potential harm to block them off from

harming occupants or visitors. This may include overhead protection as well as guardrails in accordance with

OSHA standards.

• Tape the existing glass panes so that in the event of breakage, shards of glass will be restricted from falling

out of the window.

• Whenever possible, use a safety line to tie off existing windows and the new windows to be installed to avoid

losing control and/or causing damage.

8.4.2 Reporting Construction Deficiencies

While inspecting the openings, whether new construction or replacement, check for construction deficiencies.

These may include the use of inappropriate construction practices, lack of required construction components, and

decaying materials.

If problems are detected, report the deficiencies to the approving authority in writing. This may be the building

owner on replacement projects, or the general contractor on new construction projects. If directed to continue, be

sure to get a written wavier of responsibility before proceeding.

8.4.3 Identifying and Removing Structural Components

Avoid removal of any structural components whenever possible. Where it is necessary to remove a structural

component of the building, consult with the proper authority before proceeding.Typically, it may be necessary to

consult with a licensed professional engineer, who is experienced in sizing framing materials before removal, and

replacement of structural components.

Whenever structural components must be removed, install a properly sized temporary support. For example, if the

existing opening is to be enlarged, install a temporary support to support the existing load before removing load-

bearing components.

8.4.3.1 Checking the Details

Prior to beginning any work, determine the specifics (details) about what will be removed (in the case of

replacement work), what will be installed, and how much clearance is necessary. Installers are encouraged to

review all construction documents and communicate on the specific needs of the job with the contractor prior to

installation of any materials.

It is not uncommon for problems to be overlooked and show up entirely too late in the installation phase. As an

example, suppose that the windows being installed are out-swinging-type casements. In this example, screens (if

desired) may interfere with the drywall returns that are supposed to butt up to the window at the jambs.


Another common problem occurs when there isn’t enough clearance at the sill condition to allow for operating the

rotating hardware handle. After the windows are installed and the finished sill is applied, it’s too late to discover

that the windows won’t operate because the handle hits the sill.

Although it is ordinarily the designer’s responsibility to catch these kinds of problems, they are often overlooked.

Many of these types of problems can be avoided if all parties involved in the work review the contract

documents/drawings carefully.

8.5 Quality Control Inspection

Quality control inspections are meant to take place periodically during installation (after a small percentage of the

windows are installed), and again after all the windows and doors are installed. It is to the installer’s benefit to

have the initial installation checked and approved as early as possible in order to avoid the potential for rework

later.

Communicate with the approving authority when the job is ready for the initial inspection. This is often

accomplished when the first few units are installed and anchored in place. It’s recommended that anchor

conditions are left exposed so a visual inspection can be performed. Take into consideration access to both the

interior and exterior side of the units that are installed, and gain access to them as soon as possible. As an

example, when working from the exterior on scaffolding, it would be much better to do a initial inspection before

installation, as opposed to when the job is completed and access to the exterior is limited, or other materials are

obstructing the view of critical areas.

Once the installation of all of the windows/doors and associated trim pieces is complete, the final quality control

inspection can be performed. See Chapter 23 for detailed information regarding this process.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

____


Sample Inspection Form (Replacement Work) (Page 1 of 2)

Window Location

Location of Windows and Doors

� North

� South

� East

� West

Accessibility of Existing Openings?

� First Story

� Second Story or Higher

� Obstructions

� Landscaping

� Structures

� Existing HVAC/Duct Work or

Plumbing

� Hoist Availability

� Elevator Availability

� Other ______________

Specific Location Notes

____________________________

____________________________

__________

Weather Barrier System

� Surface Barrier

� Membrane/Drainage System

� EIFS/GFRC Walls

� Obtained Project Details &

Documentation

Window Inspection

Existing Window Frame

� Aluminum

� Metal

� Wood

� Vinyl

� Steel

� Other ______________

Exterior Trim

� Wood

� Metal

� Other ______________

� None

� Historic Preservation of Trim is

Required

Wall Type

� Brick

� Block

� Concrete

� Stud

� Post

� Other ______________

Flashing

� Existing at Sill

� Existing at Head

� Not Existing

� Do Not Know

Interior Finish

� Drywall

� Plaster

� Wood Panel

� Removable

� Other ______________

Interior Trim

� Wood

� Marble/Stone

� Other ______________

Structural Inspection

Inspect for Structural Damage

� Deteriorating Foundation

� Walls Out of Square

� Head/Sill Not Level

� Unsound Head/Lintel

� Unsound Jambs

� Unsound Roof

� Unsound Ceiling

� Poor Anchorage

� Other Construction

Deficiencies (List)

Inspect for Moisture

� Water stains inside around

door/window

� Stains or flaking of paint at

head of old window

� Staining or loosened finish

on the window frame

� Stains below corner on

interior wall

� Wet carpet on floor below or

to the side of the window

� Ceiling or upper wall stains

from upstairs window

opening

� Mold/Mildew Present

Reason for Items Above

_________________________

___________________

Inspect for Lead

� Windows installed after

1978

� Windows installed before

1978

Inspect for asbestos

� Siding

� Joint Compound

� Other ______________

Job Site Inspection

Job Site Hazards

� Low Electrical Lines

� Broken Glass

� Insect Nests

� Building Occupied

� Trash and Debris


� Overhead Work

Other Potential Hazards

____________________________

________________


Sample Inspection Form (Replacement Work) (Page 2 of 2)

Planned Access

Needed To Access Openings

� Floor Work

� Scaffolding

� Ladders

� Scissor/Boom Lift

� Other_______________

Availability of Parking/ Delivery?

� No Known Problems

� Limited Worker Parking

� Limited Delivery Times

� Must Coordinate All Deliveries

� Other ______________

Specific Details for Above

____________________________

________________

Construction Integration

Coordinate Integration of Various

Products

� Flashing Materials

� Wall Weather Barrier

� Sealant Type, Selection, Use &

Compatibility

Reuse of Existing Treatments

� Must Not Disturb Interior

� Existing Window/Door

Treatments Are To Be Re-

used.

� Remove Treatments and Turn

Over to Client

� New Treatment Sizes Will

Match Existing

Specific Treatment Info.

_____________________________

_____________________________

________

New Windows/Doors

� Sightlines Must Match Existing

(Historical)

� Eyebrow at Head

� Arch Top

� Circle Top

� Equal Leg Frame

� Unequal Leg Frame

� Other_______________

New Exterior Trim/Pan


(Historical)

� Colonial Panning

� Historical Panning

� Preset Panning

� Wrap Around Panning

� Wood Mullion Covers

� Extenders/Expanders

� Formed Trim/Capping

� Other_______________

Interior Trim

� Reuse Existing

� Rectangular Trim

� Square Trim

� Special Shape Trim

� Curved Trim (Arch Top)

� New Extended Stool

� Other_______________

Anchorage Requirements

Window/Door Anchorage

� Steel Twist Anchor

� Through Wall Anchor

� Aluminum Clips

� Anchor Through Trim

� Steel Clips

� Receptors

� Subsills

� Other_______________

Mullion Anchorage

� None - Floating

� Clip Angle At Head And Sill

Of All Mullions

Special Considerations

Transitions

� Transition From Full Height

Opening to Partial Height

� 90º/135º Inside Corner

� 90º/135º Outside Corner

� Special Corners

� Horizontal Ribbons w/

Male/Female Mullions

� Vertical Stack Windows

Stack Mullions

� Parapet Wall Intersect.

� Fixed Sidelites

� Other_______________

Screens/Child Guards

� Full Screens

� Half Screens

� Fiberglass Mesh

� Aluminum Mesh

� Security Screens

� Existing Child Guards

� New Child Guards

� Other_______________

Hardware Requirements

� Limit Opening _____

� Pole Operating Hdw.

� Security Locks

� Roto Operators

� Stainless Steel Req’d.


Egress/ADA Requirements

� Allow for Egress (where

required)

� Allow for Ramps at SGD

� None Known

� Other ______________


Sample Inspection Form (New Construction) (Page 1 of 2)

Window Location

Location of Windows and Doors

� North

� South

� East

� West

Accessibility of Existing Openings

� First Story

� Second Story or Higher

� Obstructions

� Landscaping

� Structures

� Hoist Availability

� Elevator Availability

� Other ______________

Specific Location Notes

____________________________

____________________________

____________________________

____________________________

____________________

Weather Barrier System

� Surface Barrier

� Membrane/Drainage System

� EIFS/GFRC Walls

Opening Inspection

Existing Opening Cond.

� Plumb

� Level

� Square

� True

� Rough Opening Dimensions

Wall Type

� Brick

� Block

� Concrete

� Stone

� EIFS/Stucco

� Steel Stud

� Wood Stud

� Other ______________

Thru Wall Flashing

� Existing at Sill

� Existing at Head

Interior Finish

� Drywall

� Plaster

� Wood Panel

� Other ______________

� Removable

Interior Trim

� Wood

� Metal

� Marble

� Other ______________

Construction Integration

Coordinate Integration of Various

Products

� Flashing Materials

� Wall Weather Barrier

� Sealant Type, Selection, Use &

Compatibility

Structure Inspection

Inspect Openings for Structural

Problems

� Condition of Substrate

� Poor Anchorage or loose

conditions

� Framing Missing

� Other Construction

Deficiencies (List)

� Contractor Notified and

Documentation is On File

________________

Specify Problems

_________________________

_________________________

_________________________

_____________

Job Site Inspection

Job Site Hazards

� Low Electrical Lines

� Trash and Debris

� Overhead Work

� Openings in Floors

� Protected Walkway Will Be

Required

� Guardrails Required

Other Potential Hazards

_________________________

_________________________

_________________________

_____________

Planned Access

Used To Access Openings

� Floor Work

� Scaffolding

� Ladders

� Scissor/Boom Lift

� Hoist Use Permitted

� Elevator Use Permitted

� Other_______________

Availability of Parking/ Delivery?

� No Known Problems

� Limited Worker Parking

� Limited Delivery Times


� Must Coordinate All Deliveries

Specific Details for Above


Sample Inspection Form (New Construction) (Page 2 of 2)

New Windows/Doors

� Eyebrow at Head

� Arch Top

� Circle Top

� Equal Leg Frame

� Unequal Leg Frame

� Other______________

New Exterior Trim/Pan


(Historical)

� Colonial Panning

� Historical Panning

� Preset Panning

� Wrap Around Panning

� Three Piece Mullions

� Receptors

� Subsills

� Sill Member

� Other______________

Interior Trim

� Rectangular Trim

� Square Trim

� Special Shape Trim

� Curved Trim (Arch Top)

� Aluminum Stool

� Wood Stool

� Marble Stool

� Other______________

Anchorage Requirements

Window/Door Anchorage

� Steel Twist Anchor

� Through Wall Anchor

� Aluminum Clips

� Anchor Through Trim

� Steel Clips

� Receptors

� Subsills

� Other______________

Mullion Anchorage

� None – Floating

� Male/Female Combo

� Clip Angle At Head And Sill Of

All Mullions

Special Considerations

Transitions

� Transition From Full Height

Opening to Partial Height

� 90º/135º Inside Corner

� 90º/135º Outside Corner

� Special Corners

� Splay Wall

� Horizontal Ribbons w/

Male/Female Mullions

� Vertical Stack Windows Stack

Mullions

� Parapet Wall Intersect.

� Fixed Sidelites

� Overhead Transom

� Special Flashing/Coping

� Other______________

Screens/Child Guards

� Full Screens

� Half Screens

� Fiberglass Mesh

� Aluminum Mesh

� Security Screens

� Child Guards

� Other______________

Hardware Requirements

� Limit Opening _____

� Pole Operating Hdw.

� Security Locks

� Roto Operators

� Stainless Steel Req’d.

� Window Washer Bolts

� Multi Point Locks

� Heavy Duty Balances

� Stainless Stl. Door Track

� Alarm System

Egress/ADA Requirements

� Allow for Egress at Sleeping

Rooms

� Allow for Ramps at SGD

� None Known

� Other _____________

Special Glass Requirements

� Security Glass

� Tempered Glass Doors

� Tempered Glass Sidelites

� Tempered Glass Windows

At The Following Locations

______________________

______________________

_____________

� Breather Tubes Req’d.

� Spandrel Glass

� Panels for AC Units

� Between Glass Blinds

� Other ______________

Field Testing Required

� Testing By Lab/Consult.

� Testing By Manufacturer

Contract Documents

Governing Documents

� Job Specifications

� Architectural Drawings

� Detailed Shop Drawings

� Mfg. Install. Instructions

� Estimate/Contract


� Other _____________

Other Job Specific Notes:

____________________________

____________________________

____________________________

__________________________


Table of Contents

9.1 Building Codes ............................................................................................................................................2

9.1.1 Development of Codes .......................................................................................................................2

9.1.2 Regional Model Building Codes .........................................................................................................3

9.1.3 Model Energy Codes ..........................................................................................................................3

9.1.4 Standards............................................................................................................................................4

9.2 Home Rule Doctrine ...................................................................................................................................6

9.3 Accessibility ................................................................................................................................................6

9.3.1 Windows .............................................................................................................................................6

9.3.2 Doors ..................................................................................................................................................6

9.4 Emergency Escape Requirements .............................................................................................................7

9.5 Safety Glazing ............................................................................................................................................9

9.5.1 Types of Safety Glass .........................................................................................................................9

9.5.2 Safety Glass Labeling ...................................................................................................................... 10

9.5.3 IBC Safety Glass Standards ............................................................................................................ 10






9.0 Codes, Standards and Specifications

9.1 Building Codes

The construction industry is governed by a group of regulations and requirements. These rules and regulations

are designed to provide uniformity on minimum design and construction practices, thereby avoiding

inconsistencies arising from differing approaches of architects, builders and installers. Once national, state or

local codes are adopted by jurisdictions, they become law and must be followed.

9.1.1 Development of Codes

Regulations and requirements represent input from various interested groups. Because of the large number and

diversity of these groups, it is virtually impossible to develop one single set of criteria or standards to govern the

manufacture, selection, installation and maintenance of windows and doors.

Numerous standards, codes and ordinances have been developed. Installers must comply with the code that

relates to their work. However, overlap in requirements can be confusing without a basic understanding of their

development and enforceability.

Local government regulates the construction industry by means of building codes that are developed through an

arduous process. First, specifications are developed to clearly describe technical requirements for materials,

procedures and services. Specifications may state the requirements for a desired product and the process used

to produce it.

Standards are guidelines or principles that are agreed upon by a broad spectrum of the industry, typically working

through an association.

Once standards or requirements are published, they may become codes. Once that code is adopted by a

jurisdiction, it becomes law (see Figure 9-1).


Figure 9-1 Development of Codes

9.1.2 Regional Model Building Codes

In the past, there were three regional model building codes written by three separate organizations of building

officials. Each state, county and municipal jurisdiction typically adopted one of these regional codes. They were

known as the Uniform Building Code (UBC) published by ICBO, the BOCA National Building Code, and the

SBCCI Standard Building Code.

In order to try to create one uniform code used by all jurisdictions, an International Code Council (ICC) was

developed to replace the previous three. The code developed by the ICC to address commercial construction is

the International Building Code (IBC). An updated edition of the code is published every three years. This code

and its revisions don't become law until adopted by the local jurisdiction.

9.1.3 Model Energy Codes

About one-third of all energy in the United States is consumed in buildings. This high level of usage led to the

development of various energy standards and codes, with support from the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE).

Many states, such as California and Oregon, publish their own energy codes. Other states rely heavily on the

Model Energy Codes, or the International Energy Conservation Code, which replaced the Model Energy Code in

2000.

The Model Energy Codes were initially developed through a joint effort of the three model code agencies, BOCA,

ICBO and SBCCI, called CABO (Council of American Building Officials). This joint effort was superceded by the

formation of the International Code Council (ICC) by these same three agencies in 1995. Subsequently, the name

of the Model Energy Code was changed to the International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) to be consistent

with the other codes published by the ICC. See Table 9-1 for contact information.


ICC (International Code Council)

500 New Jersey Avenue, NW

6th Floor,

Washington, DC 20001-2070

Phone: 888/722-7233

Fax: 202/783-2348

Web: www.iccsafe.org

Table 9-1 Building Code Agencies

There are also several housing codes that may refer to window and door installation. They include the following:

• Basic Housing - Property Maintenance Code

• HUD Code

• ICC - International Building Code

• SCBBI SSTD 10, “Standard for Hurricane Resistance Residential Construction”

9.1.4 Standards

There are numerous groups that work diligently to develop standards for the window and door (see Table 9-2).

Agencies and departments within the federal government also develop standards to protect the health, safety,

and welfare of citizens. Many of their standards, which have been adopted as federal codes, address window and

door requirements and must be followed.

• ADA — Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) became law in 1990 and was implemented by the Department

of Justice on July 26, 1991. These regulations have had far-reaching effects upon the glazing trade,

especially regarding access to, and use of, buildings by the disabled.

• CPSC — Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is a federal agency that regulates product safety.

Safety glazing regulation 16 CFR Part 1201 became law on July 6, 1977, and mandates safety glazing in all

doors designed primarily for human passage.

• OSHA — Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) is a division of the U.S. Department of

Labor that develops and enforces safety requirements for the protection of employees in the workplace.


http://www.iccsafe.org/

AAMA (American Architectural Manufacturers Association)

1827 Walden Office Square

Suite 550

Schaumburg, IL 60173-4268

Phone: 847/303-5664

Fax: 847/303-5774

Web: www.aamanet.org

ANSI (American National Standards Institute, Inc.)

25 West 43rd Street, 4th Floor

New York, NY 10036

Phone: 212/642-4900

Fax: 212/398-0023

Web: www.ansi.org

ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials)

100 Barr Harbor Drive

PO Box C700

West Conshohocken, PA 19428

Phone: 610/832-9585

Fax: 610/832-9555

Web: www.astm.org

IGMA (Insulating Glass Manufacturers Alliance)

1500 Bank Street, Suite 300

Ottawa, Ontario K1H 1B8

CANADA Phone: 613/233-1510

Fax: 613/482-9436

Web: www.igmaonline.org

NFRC (National Fenestration Rating Council)

6305 Ivy Lane, Suite 140

Greenbelt, MD 20770

Phone: 301/589-1776

Fax: 301/589-3884

Web: www.nfrc.org


http://www.astm.org/

http://www.igmaonline.org/

http://www.nfrc.org/

WDMA (Window & Door Manufacturers Association)

1400 East Touhy Avenue, Suite 470

Des Plaines, IL 60018-3337

Phone: 847-299-5200

Fax: 847-299-1286

Web: www.wdma.com

Table 9-2 Agencies Developing Standards

9.2 Home Rule Doctrine

Because of the large number of specifications, codes and standards that affect the window and door industry,

conflicts between their requirements will inevitably arise. When a conflict occurs, one shall remember the concept

of "Home Rule Doctrine," which means, “the most stringent requirement applies." Our governmental structure

allows the lowest governing body to have final control, as long as their requirement is equal to, or more stringent

than, the state or federal requirement.

An example of "Home Rule Doctrine" might be maximum sill height for an egress window in an apartment building

(see Figure 9-2). The 2003 IBC allows a maximum of 44 in. A state code may reduce this to 42 in. The county

code may be 40 in, and the local code may be even lower, specifying a maximum of 38 in. In this case, the 38 in

maximum would be enforced because it is the most stringent. The Property Owners' Association's CC&Rs

(Covenants, Conditions and Restrictions) could reduce the sill height even more.

9.3 Accessibility

The Fair Housing Amendments Act of 1988 and the American Disabilities Act Access Guidelines (ADAAG)

require that public buildings and multifamily dwellings (generally considered to be buildings consisting of four or

more dwelling units) include certain features of accessible design. Therefore, installers of doors must have an

awareness of the Fair Housing Act and ADAAG design and construction requirements.

9.3.1 Windows

The Fair Housing Act Amendment requirement does not apply to windows; however, the ADAAG and ICC/ANSI

A117.1 do have requirements for accessible windows. These requirements are provided in Chapter 11 of the IBC.

9.3.2 Doors

The ADAAG and ANSI A117.1 require some doors to be accessible. The requirements can be found in Chapter

11 of the IBC. The requirements apply to all doors that are on an accessible path of egress in the building, which

includes accessible spaces or dwelling units, and most public areas in buildings where accessible spaces or

dwelling units are required. This includes most commercial buildings, and the common areas of multi-family

housing developments.

When installing exterior glass doors in multi-family dwelling units, consider this list of pointers and cautions:


http://www.wdma.com/

• Doors must be wide enough to enable a person in a wheelchair to maneuver through easily.

• Doors must have a minimum clear-opening width of 32” (measured from face of door to the stop with door

open 90 degrees) for wheelchair access.

• Exterior door thresholds and sliding door tracks typically are not to exceed 1/2” to 3/4" in height.

Thresholds and changes in level at these locations are to be beveled with a slope no greater than 1:2.

Consult with governing authorities for specific height dimensions.

• Minimum clear width for an accessible route inside the unit is 36”.

• All types of doors used for human egress are covered - hinged, sliding and folding. Overhead doors and

similar doors used for the movement of goods and equipment are not covered.

• Doors leading to any outdoor amenities that the accessible dwelling may have (e.g. balcony, patio, deck)

shall comply with these requirements. If a deck or patio has doorways leading into two or more separate

rooms, all these doors must be accessible. Requirements apply to:

- Public and common-use doors;

- Doors leading into an individual dwelling unit that is required to be accessible. The number of

accessible dwelling units required depends upon the total number of dwelling units provided, and is

given in tabular form in Chapter 11 of the International Building Code; and

- Most doors within the accessible dwelling unit itself. There are some exceptions for doors within the

accessible dwelling unit that are not normally considered egress doors, such as doors to small closets

or access doors for mechanical equipment.

• Doors in public or common-use areas, when installed, must be in conformance with ICC/ANSI A117.1.

• Hallways, passages and corridors must be wide enough to allow room to maneuver a wheelchair

throughout.

9.4 Emergency Escape Requirements

Emergency escape and rescue opening (previously called “emergency egress”) refers to a means of exiting a

building in the event of emergency, or defines the opening by which an emergency rescue can be performed. The

Model Codes (and the National Fire Protection Association NFPA 101) include specific requirements for

emergency escape and rescue for doors and windows.

This section briefly discusses emergency escape, which is titled "Emergency Escape and Rescue Openings" in

the 2006 IBC, Section 1026. Each sleeping room in buildings of four stories or less, above grade (some

exceptions may apply), is required to have at least one emergency escape and rescue door, window or skylight.

An emergency escape and rescue opening must conform to the following requirements (see Figure 9-2):

• A minimum net clear openable area of 5.7 square feet,

• A minimum net clear openable height dimension of 24",

• A minimum net clear openable width dimension of 20" and

• A finished sill height of not more than 44" above the floor.


• The required dimensions are to be achieved through the “normal operation” of the window without the use

of keys or tools. “Normal operation” of the window does not include removing a sash or removing a pin on

the casement hardware to swing it fully open.

When installing windows (new construction and replacement windows), the installer must be aware of the

emergency escape and rescue requirements enforced by the local jurisdiction. Often one type of window, such as

casement, will meet the requirement, but a slider or hung window of the same size would not.

The installer shall not install windows into residential sleeping rooms that do not meet emergency escape

requirements. This limitation includes retrofit windows installed into existing window frames that may significantly

reduce the emergency escape opening dimensions. Some jurisdictions have adopted special regulations that

dictate the amount the emergency escape and rescue opening can be reduced. This permitted reduction varies

from 3” to 6”, depending on the jurisdiction, and is generally permitted in both the vertical and horizontal direction.

To be safe, an installer shall always consult the local building official on the requirements in their particular area

before installing windows.

Some manufacturers offer windows or skylights that are designed specifically for emergency escape and rescue.

They might be used in areas that open up directly onto a roof or balcony. Windows of this nature are designed for

emergency escape and rescue only, and may incorporate a label that signifies “Emergency Escape Only.” This

typically means that the window is large enough to be used in an emergency, yet it’s not designed to be used to

provide typical everyday ventilation.

If emergency escape and rescue windows or skylights of this type are used for purposes other than emergency

escape and rescue, especially if they open to the exterior or are left open for extended periods of time, they may

pose a significant liability issue. Always caution building owners against allowing the use of these windows for

anything other than emergency escape and rescue, and insist that the warning labels not be removed.


Figure 9-2 Emergency Escape Requirements

9.5 Safety Glazing

The IBC, as well as the federal government and each of the three previous model codes, requires safety glass to

be installed in hazardous locations (locations subject to human impact). This requirement is intended to protect

occupants from injury caused by hitting the glass with a dynamic force, which may be caused by running, walking,

or falling into the glass.

The requirements discussed in this chapter are based on safety glazing requirements set forth by the 2003

International Building Code, Section 2406. The sections that follow provide an overview of the safety glass

requirements; however, the prevailing code must be reviewed for each specific locality. The most current version

of the International Building Code is the 2006 IBC.

9.5.1 Types of Safety Glass

The most common forms of safety glass used in commercial applications are tempered and laminated. Safety

glass can be plain, patterned, clear, tinted or translucent (such as "obscure" panels sometimes used adjacent to

entry doors).

All safety glass must be manufactured and tested to one, or both, of the following safety glass standards:

American National Standards Institute ANSI Z97.1-1984 (reaffirmed 1994), and the Code of Federal Regulations

CPSC 16 CFR 1201. The 2003 IBC Section 2406.1.2 permits compliance with ANSI Z97.1 instead of CPSC 16

CFR 1201, only for wired glass in assemblies that are required to be rated for fire resistance These assemblies

are not permitted in educational buildings (kindergarten through grade 12), or in the playing areas of athletic

facilities (gymnasiums, basketball and racquetball courts, etc.). The 2006 IBC does not reference this exception.

The IBC dictates which assemblies are required to be fire resistance rated.


9.5.2 Safety Glass Labeling

Each lite (pane) of safety glass must be permanently identified with a label etched or painted with a ceramic frit

fired into the glass. A permanent identification label, commonly called a "bug", must be present on each pane of

glass installed where safety glazing is required. The permanent label must identify the labeler (whether

manufacturer or installer) by name or logo, and state the ANSI or CPSC safety glazing standard it complies with.

In the IBC, the label is to be provided through participation in a third-party, quality control program that reviews

the testing of the product, and conducts periodic inspection of its production. There is no standard specifying the

location of permanent labels on safety glass; however, manufacturers most commonly place them in a bottom

corner.

Shown in Figure 9-3 are examples of three "bugs" and the information they typically contain.

Figure 9-3 Permanent Label "Bugs"

One of the first things any installer shall do is to check each window on the job for the safety glazing identification.

This will help installers recognize that there is a requirement for safety glazing on the job and assist them in

making the determination as to the correct location of the product.

9.5.3 IBC Safety Glass Standards

The most widely enforced safety glass requirements for windows and doors are based upon the 2000 or 2003

IBC. The following information is a summary of what is presented in Chapter 24 of the 2003 IBC. Always refer to

the latest version of the code for complete and up-to-date information as well as those items not covered in this

summary. The latest version of the International Building Code is the 2006 IBC.

Glazing in Operable Windows and Fixed Glazed Panels (Adjacent to Doors)

1. Safety glass is required in any operable window or fixed panel adjacent to a door (see Figure 9-4) where:


• The nearest exposed edge of the glazing is within a 24” arc of either vertical edge of the door in a closed

position; and

• Where the bottom exposed edge of the glazing is less than 60" above the walking surface.

Exceptions: Not required when there is an intervening wall or other permanent barrier between the door and the

glazing.

Not required for glazing in walls that are perpendicular (90°) to the plane of the wall the door is in.

Figure 9-4 Safety Glass for Operable Windows and Fixed Glazed Panels (Adjacent to Doors)

Glazing In Operable Windows and Individual Fixed Panels (Not Adjacent to Doors)

1. Safety glass is required in individual fixed or operable panels which meet all of the following conditions:

• The exposed area of an individual pane is greater than 9 ft2;

• The exposed bottom edge of the glazing is less than 18” above the floor;

• The exposed top edge of the glazing is greater than 36” above the floor; and

• One or more walking surface(s) is within 36” horizontally of the plane of glass (see Figure 9-5).

Exceptions: Not required when a protective bar 1½” or more in height, capable of withstanding a horizontal load of

50 pounds per linear foot without contacting the glass is installed on the accessible sides of the glazing 34” to 38”

above the floor.

Not required in the outboard lite in an insulating glass unit or multiple glazing where the bottom exposed edge of

the glass is 25” or more above any grade, roof, walking surface or other horizontal or sloped (within 45° of

horizontal) surface adjacent to the glass exterior.


Figure 9-5 Safety Glass in Fixed and Operable Panes (Not Adjacent to Doors)

Glazing In Guards and Railings or Walls and Fences Enclosing Swimming Pools, Hot Tubs and Spas, etc.

Glazing in special areas like those listed above is outside the scope of this manual; however, installers shall be

aware that special requirements may apply. Always refer to the governing code for special requirements.

Safety Glazing in Hazardous Locations (Swing and Sliding Glass Doors)

The following are considered specific hazardous locations and require safety glazing according to the IBC:

• Glazing in swing doors, except jalousies

• Glazing in fixed and sliding panels of sliding door assemblies

• Glazing in unframed swing doors.

Exceptions: Not required for glass in doors where a 3” sphere would be unable to pass through the glass opening.

Safety Glazing in Stairways, Ramps, Athletic Facilities and Glass in Floors and Sidewalks

The IBC specifically covers additional special areas requiring safety glazing, which are outside the scope of this

manual. Always consult the codes to determine safety glazing requirements for special areas on your particular

project.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________


Table of Contents

10.1 Manufacturer's Installation Instructions ..................................................................................................1

10.2 General Installation Guidelines ...............................................................................................................2

10.3 Following Shop Drawings .......................................................................................................................2

10.4 Special Circumstances ...........................................................................................................................2

10.5 When Conflicts Arise ..............................................................................................................................2

10.6 Common Cautions For Installers ............................................................................................................3






10.0 Manufacturer's Installation Instructions

There are numerous manufacturers of windows and glass doors across the country. Many manufacturers have

developed specific uses and installation procedures for their products, which are referred to as "manufacturer's

installation instructions."

These manufacturers provide installation instructions for guidance and direction in the proper installation of their

products. Never take action(s) inconsistent with the manufacturer’s installation instructions without consultation

with all appropriate parties.

Manufacturer's instructions shall be considered a requirement, not an option. At any time that the manufacturer's

instructions appear inconsistent with the job requirements, the installer must seek further information from the

responsible architect, builder, and manufacturer. Action(s) inconsistent with manufacturer instructions must never

be taken without consultation with all appropriate parties.

10.1 Manufacturer's Installation Instructions

Manufacturers develop and build products to meet industry standards. These products must meet specific

performance requirements when built and installed in a certain manner. It is not the intent of this manual to

override the manufacturer's recommendations on proper installation techniques. This manual is meant to provide

guidance and to reinforce the use of the manufacturer's installation instructions.

For example: Assume that there are no architectural drawings, specifications, or shop drawings. If a

manufacturer's installation instructions indicate that the products are to be installed with 1/4" diameter × 3" long

anchor bolts at 16” on center, those recommendations must be followed. The manufacturer is being specific

regarding the need to attach the product at certain locations. It is entirely possible that the manufacturer has

determined through testing and/or calculations that the product will perform better when attached in this manner.

If another source, such as this manual, indicates that products are to be attached at a minimum of 18” on center,

the manufacturer's instructions shall still be followed. Understanding this distinction is critical to an installer's

success in meeting his obligation to install the products in an appropriate manner.

To reduce the potential for confusion on the requirements of the project, carefully review the construction

documents listed below:

• Local, Regional and National Building Codes

• Contract Documents

• Architectural Specifications and Drawings

• Detailed Shop Drawings, Installation Instructions and Job Calculations


10.2 General Installation Guidelines

The guidelines and principles outlined in this manual are general installation guidelines and minimum

recommended project requirements. The manufacturer's instructions always take precedent over the guidelines

contained in this manual.

This manual does not offer recommendations specific to every manufacturer, but it does offer recommendations

for basic installation practices. The installation practices outlined in this manual have been developed by

consensus among industry experts in the field of building construction.

10.3 Following Shop Drawings

If installation instructions are not provided with the product, consult the contractor, manufacturer or dealer to

determine if detailed shop drawings are available before proceeding. Shop drawings are commonly provided, and

may include job specific applications based on architectural drawings, specifications and other contract

documents. Whenever job approved shop drawings are provided, follow the installation procedures specific to the

job. When no installation instructions or shop drawings are available, use the procedures outlined in this manual

as a minimum installation requirement.

10.4 Special Circumstances

Occasionally, the installation of windows and doors differs from the "norm." If the manufacturer's installation

instructions and the guidelines offered in this manual, do not address a special circumstance found on the job, the

installer is responsible for contacting the contractor or manufacturer for specific instructions relative to the job in

question. Many manufacturers have trained engineering personnel on staff who can assist with special

applications. Often the manufacturer provides products based on a specific order without knowing the intended

use of the products. Share detailed information with the manufacturer to correctly address the special

circumstances that arise.

10.5 When Conflicts Arise

There will be cases when conflicts arise between the installer and the approving authority. An installer may be told

to install a product in a certain manner, which is in direct conflict with the manufacturer's instructions, job

calculations, and/or the principles outlined in this manual. When this situation occurs, immediately contact the

responsible party about the situation. The responsible party shall handle and resolve any disputes and get a

written wavier of responsibility if the work is to proceed as instructed by the approving authority.

Full documentation of the situation including the conflicting instructions, specific details, photographs and the

actions taken by the installer must be done in writing as a matter of permanent record. Installers and their

management are encouraged to maintain these records for a period of not less than 10 years.


10.6 Common Cautions For Installers

Manufacturers report that a number of common problems are found in the field. The following list of cautions is

provided to help the installer avoid these problems:

• Always follow the installation instructions and/or shop drawings.

• When working from shop drawings or measurement sheets, make sure you have the latest version.

• Check the route for the manufacturer’s delivery vehicle making sure that it can meet the height

restrictions and deliver to the site, especially under bridges and viaducts.

• Upon arrival, make sure to account for all materials delivered at the job site. Place these materials in a

secure area to avoid damage and/or loss.

• Make sure to pinpoint where tempered, laminated, or obscure glass is required once the materials arrive

on site.

• To avoid damaging the corners of the frames, use a protective mat on the ground when offloading

products from the truck.

• Make sure that the condition you are anchoring to is of sufficient strength (especially on replacement

work). Upon investigation you may find that the condition is rotten or loose.

• Handle windows/doors with grids carefully in order to avoid damaging the grids.

• Always check screen quantities, locations and sizes. However, in order to avoid damage, leave the

screens off the product until the job is finished.

• Always check existing back seals that were applied in the factory. If the seal is damaged, contact the

factory on the proper materials/methods required for resealing.

• Always check the windows/doors for missing or damaged weep hole covers which may have occurred

during transport.

• In replacement applications always check for obstructions like columns, sheer walls, spandrel areas, etc.

to determine if special installation techniques will be required.

• Be careful when removing existing window treatments if they are to be reused. Find out if the treatments

are to be reused, and if they will still work based on the new window sizes and configurations.

• When sash must be removed, make sure to mark the sash and the corresponding frame (example: F-12

and S-12). Always place sash back in the correct frame; it may have been adjusted in the factory to

specifically fit that unit.

• Inspect the opening conditions not only for the correct size, but also for square, anchorage and sealant

adhesion.

• Don’t remove any windows until double-checking the openings to verify the correct fit.

• Check the drawings and the actual building conditions for hardware operation clearance. Raised stools,

blinds and window treatments often block the rotation and/or access to operable hardware handles.

• Make sure enough of the correct size and type fasteners and shims for installation are available.


• Non-corrosive hardware and fasteners are commonly provided as an upgrade to avoid corrosion in

coastal areas. If the project is in proximity of a coastline, make sure the manufacturer is informed at the

time of order.

• Make sure all accessories and the window/door frames are set plumb, level and square.

• Never block weep holes with sealant or any other materials that will keep water from draining properly.

• Check windows for hardware damage and proper operation. Operate and adjust hardware as required in

order to avoid future damage and/or accidents to those who might use them in the future.

• Don’t drill through window/door frames to apply alarm systems. Drilling through frames often allows water

into places where it can’t get out.

• To avoid sagging, use extra precautions when attaching the hinge jamb of casement windows and hinged

doors.

• Don’t apply films to the glass without first consulting with the window/door or glass manufacturer. Films

can often lead to heat buildup and glass breakage.

• Don’t block the drainage path (weep holes) at doors when used in conjunction with patios involving brick,

stone or concrete pavers. When necessary, use a starter sill, and/or shim the door high enough to clear

any obstructions.

• Don’t attach through the glazing cavity with fasteners. This may cause glass breakage in the future.

• Don’t apply field limit devices or other types of hardware without first consulting with the manufacturer.

Limit devices may cause additional clearance and/or operation problems, and may void the warranty or

violate ventilation codes.

• Don’t block breather holes with sealant on dual sash. Breather holes are meant to allow air circulation.

• Always seal metal-to-metal joints. Also make sure end dams are sealed properly on sub-sills.

• Be careful about stripping out the head of fasteners on hardware or other materials that may require

future removal or adjustment. If the head looks like it is starting to strip out, replace it with the same size

fastener.

• Use compatible sealants that are meant to allow for movement due to expansion/contraction and/or inter-

story displacement.

• Know the sealant manufacturer’s guidelines for maximum and minimum temperatures when applying

sealant.

• If a sealant will be used for purposes other than those specified or recommended, check with the window

and sealant manufacturers to ensure that the substituted sealant has adequate adhesion, and is

compatible with all contact surfaces.

• Check blind tilt control knobs to ensure they are not missing or damaged.

• Don’t use (or allow others to use) the finished window/door opening as an access for material delivery.

This often results in the build up of debris inside the frame and/or causes damage to window frames and

door thresholds.

• Make sure the framing surfaces are protected from corrosive materials such as mortar and sulfuric acid,

which are commonly found in most external cleaning solutions.


• Don’t leave adhesively applied covers on the finish for extended periods of time. Be sure to remove these

materials prior to the final perimeter seal.

• Be extremely careful about welding after installation. Shield the glass and frame from weld flash as

damage/breakage may occur.

• Use extreme caution when field applying items such as air conditioners, security screens, sun shades,

window guards, window treatments and others, as drilling and mounting to frames may cause water and

air infiltration and may have an effect on the operation of the units.

• When drilling through the frame to make attachments, make sure to seal the penetration.

• Don’t assume anything. If you need clarification, seek guidance.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

_______________________________________________


Table of Contents

11.0 Measuring and Ordering .....................................................................................................................................1

11.1 Taking Measurements ................................................................................................................................3

11.1.1 Following Manufacturer's Requirements ............................................................................................3

11.1.2 Vertical and Horizontal Measurements ...............................................................................................3

11.1.3 Measuring Spring Lines and Making Templates for Curves ...............................................................6

11.1.4 Wall Depth and Window Location .......................................................................................................9

11.1.5 Checking Wall for Plumb ....................................................................................................................9

11.1.6 Checking Level ................................................................................................................................ 10

11.2 Clearance Provisions ............................................................................................................................... 10

11.2.1 Allowing for Clearances ................................................................................................................... 10

11.2.2 Allowance for Out-of-Square ........................................................................................................... 10

11.2.3 Allowing for Accessories .................................................................................................................. 10

11.3 Installation Tolerances ............................................................................................................................. 16

11.4 Shipping Instructions ............................................................................................................................... 17






11.0 Measuring and Ordering

Many factors must be considered before ordering a window or door. Frequently, windows and doors arrive on site

and do not fit in the opening properly because the exact opening measurements were not taken. Additionally,

some errors occur when the proper allowance for clearance, sealant joints or accessory items are not taken into

consideration.

In addition to opening measurements, it is critical to determine the following factors prior to ordering a window or

door:

1. The Type of Wall

• Masonry or Concrete Block

• Pre-cast Concrete

• Wood Frame

• Steel Stud

2. The Frame Style (see Figure 11-1a)

• Equal Leg Frame

• Unequal Leg Frame

• Equal Leg Frame (with Receptor System)

• Equal Leg Frame (with Panning Trim)

• Extended Flange (Retro Flange)

• Welded Vinyl Frame (see Figure 11-1b)


Figure 11-1a Various Styles of Frames

Figure 11-1b Welded Vinyl Frame

3. Types of Windows or Doors and their related hardware (see Chapters 4 and 5)

4. Desired Thermal Factors (see Chapter 2, Sections 2.4 through 2.10)

5. Other Design Considerations (see Chapter 2, Sections 2.11 through 2.14)

6. Check for Obstructions and Other Special Conditions


• Build-ups at the head, sill, or jambs where the original detail has been covered with ceramic tile, Corian,

marble, mirrors, sheetrock or other materials that will affect the installation or anchorage of the new

window.

• Consider the presence and location of louvers, air-conditioners, electrical wire, and conduits and

determine whether these materials need to be removed and reinstalled

• Obstructions such as a drop ceiling, window treatments or sill conditions that will prevent the proper

operation of the window must be considered.

• Check the entire pathway, starting from where the trucks are to be unloaded to where the final installation

will take place for each opening. This must be done in order to determine if the windows and/or

accessories can be distributed without possible damage.

Most manufacturers build windows to order based on exact sizes provided by the customer. Others, as part of

their contract, determine the appropriate size based on field measurements. The process of establishing field

measurements for window/ door sizing is critical to the proper determination of the exact product size.

In new construction applications, the sizes are generally based on a set of architectural drawings and/or shop

drawings. In the case of retrofit construction, the window sizes are based on a set of field measurements taken by

professionals at the job site. Examples of "Field Measuring Sheets” are provided at the end of this chapter.

11.1 Taking Measurements

If the installer is the party responsible for ordering the window or door, he must first determine the exact

measurements of the opening. There are three critical opening measurements:

• Width (Exterior and Interior)

• Height (Exterior and Interior)

• Squareness (Diagonals)

An installer is required to practice the correct methods of taking measurements, and make allowances necessary

for any field problems or clearance requirements. Remember:

1. When replacing or installing more than one product in a building, measure each opening.

2. Use consistent measuring units for the project, either the inch-pound units of feet, inches, etc., or metric units,

but never mix two measuring systems on the same project.

3. Always show width dimension first.

11.1.1 Following Manufacturer's Requirements

Installation practices and measuring requirements may vary among manufacturers. It is important to check the

manufacturer's measuring requirements before measuring.

In the event that the manufacturer's measuring instructions provided with a product differ from the requirements of

this manual, the manufacturer's instructions shall prevail.

11.1.2 Vertical and Horizontal Measurements

Construction methods and/or building movement can alter the size of an opening from bottom to top and from

side to side. An opening may measure (from jamb to jamb) 4'-5" at the top of the opening and measure 4'-5½" at

the bottom. To eliminate the problem of inaccurate measuring, measure the opening at three different locations,

horizontally and vertically, to ensure he is using the proper dimensions.


Width

When ordering a product, the width measurement is given first. Measure the width from jamb to jamb for new

construction openings as well as for replacement products (see Figure 11-2).

1. Measure width at three locations:

• Top

• Middle

• Bottom

2. Record the three dimensions and use the smallest dimension for determining the new window size. For

existing steel frames that are to remain, measure to the smallest daylight opening.

Figure 11-2 Measuring Width

Height

The height of the window is calculated by measuring from the sill to the header. Replacement products are

sometimes measured from head jamb to finish sill (see Figure 11-3). Use the steps below to measure the height

of the opening:

1. Measure the height at three locations:

• Left side

• Center

• Right side

2. Record the three dimensions and use the smallest dimension. For existing steel frames that are to remain,

measure to the smallest daylight opening.


Figure 11-3 Measuring Height

Measuring for Square

Openings are seldom square. Always measure the diagonals for squareness before ordering a product (see

Figure 11-4).

Out-of-square openings can force a new product out-of-square during installation, resulting in seal failure, water

leaks and incorrect operation of locks.

Determine if the opening is square by:

1. Measuring from bottom left corner to top right corner

2. Measuring from bottom right corner to top left corner

• Record the two dimensions. If they are equal, the opening is square.

• If they are not, the opening is out-of-square.

Note: For more information on openings that are out-of-square, see Chapter 11, Section 11.2.2.


Figure 11-4 Measuring For Square

11.1.3 Measuring Spring Lines and Making Templates for Curves

Curve-top windows, or windows with other arches, require special measurements. When taking field

measurements for windows to be installed in arched openings, determine the spring line (the point at which the

arch starts) and provide accurate templates of the opening. Templates allow the windows, panning, and trim to be

made to the exact curvature of the opening. Providing physical templates with detailed dimension points is a great

way of reducing the chance for miscommunication or error.

To make a template, use the following steps to determine the location of the spring lines:

1. Perform a visual inspection of the opening.

2. Find the point on the opening at the jamb where the straight vertical wall intersects with the arched portion.

3. Place a straight edge across the full width of the opening (plus 6” or more), aligning one side with the

previously found spring line.

4. Next, use a carpenter’s level to move the straight edge to a level position while maintaining the original

starting point (see Figure 11-5).


Figure 11-5 Determine Spring Line and Center Line

5. Once the straight edge is level, it can be nailed in place on the wall using a small nail at each end.

6. After securing the straight edge in position, draw a 4” line (or apply a piece of tape) as a reference point on

each side of the opening. These lines represent the spring lines at the jambs.

To find the center of the arc, continue using the straight edge and follow these steps.

1. Measure the width of the opening and locate a mark on the straight edge corresponding to half the width.

2. Use a plumb line to transfer the center of the opening on the straight edge, 4” above the top of the opening.

3. You now have three marks on the opening corresponding to the spring line and centerline of the opening.

To make a template, use the following steps and the marks that were previously made.

Note: These instructions are for partial templates; for a full size template, cut the paper 6” larger than the full

height of the opening.

1. Cut a piece of cardboard or heavy paper 6” wider than the opening, and 6” taller than the opening at the

spring line (see Figure 11-6).


Figure 11-6 Prep Paper/Cardboard for Template

2. Draw a straight line 3” from the bottom edge of the paper along the full width of the template.

3. Determine the location of the center of the paper (horizontally), and then draw a line (perpendicular to the

bottom horizontal straight line) up the full height of the template.

4. Place the template paper on the wall and align the horizontal lines with the marks on either side of the

opening (see Figure 11-7).

Figure 11-7 Scribing the Template

5. Slide the paper from side to side until the centerline on the paper lines up with the centerline on the arch.


6. Tape the template to the wall. Stretch the template tight across the opening being sure to remove all wrinkles;

verify all marks line up.

7. Using a smooth piece of plywood or hardboard, cover the template on the inside; from the opposite side,

transcribe the arch onto the template.

8. Add any notes or dimensions that will be of help to the manufacturer in making the desired finished product.

11.1.4 Wall Depth and Window Location

Although walls are generally of standard thickness, wall thickness can vary in old or remodeled buildings (see

Figure 11-8). Wall depth will influence the type of product ordered, and the size of jamb extensions or interior trim,

when needed.

Observe the following steps when measuring wall depth and locating the product in the opening:

1. Measure wall depth from interior to exterior.

2. Determine the location of the product in the wall. (Where will it be positioned?)

3. Determine if jamb extensions or interior trim will be necessary. Take into consideration the projection

(extended depth) of the panning if it is being used.

4. Determine whether the manufacturer will provide the jamb extensions and/or trim, or whether it is necessary

to build them on site.

Figure 11-8 Check Wall Depth

11.1.5 Checking Wall for Plumb

Sometimes the settling of the foundation of a building will force a wall out-of-plumb. If the wall is out-of-plumb, it

may affect how the product will fit in an opening.

Check for plumb by placing a level against the wall on both sides of the opening. Be prepared to make

adjustments when installing the product if the wall is out-of-plumb.


11.1.6 Checking Level

When products rest on a rough sill, it is important that the sill be level. Out-of-level sills may distort the frame and

cause problems with the operation.

1. Determine if the opening is level by placing a level at the head and the sill.

2. If the opening is not level, placement of bottom shims can help to level the sill (see Chapter 13, Section 13.2,

"Shims").

11.2 Clearance Provisions

11.2.1 Allowing for Clearances

Always provide adequate clearance to prevent distortion of the frame. Some manufacturers build the frame to the

dimensions provided by the installer. Others take the net opening dimensions and undercut a specified amount.

Always follow the manufacturer's measuring and ordering procedures.

Proper clearances allow for installation clearance as well as building and installation tolerances. In proper

installation practices, installers provide clearance between the window/door and the opening. Remember the

following:

1. Clearances shall conform to the manufacturer's specifications.

2. Unless otherwise specified, provide at least 1/4" at the top and 1/8" clearance on each side in applications

where a sealant joint isn’t being applied between the window and the substrate. In applications where a

sealant joint is being used, allow for a 3/8” nominal joint (more if necessary, based on the frame size) around

the entire perimeter.

3. Large windows and doors may require more clearance. (See Chapter 17, Section 17.1.3 for expansion and

contraction guidelines.)

11.2.2 Allowance for Out-of-Square

Out-of-square openings require more clearance than square openings. It’s common to find openings out-of-

square, especially when doing replacement work.

When taking measurements to order products, it may be necessary to make adjustments to the product size for

out-of-square openings.

To determine if the opening is out-of-square, measure both diagonals from corner to corner of the rough opening

or existing window. To avoid interference with the rough opening or existing window frame, the installer should

strongly consider ordering a smaller product if the diagonal measurements differ by more than 1/4".

11.2.3 Allowing for Accessories

Some accessories may affect the clearance and the exact window size. Before ordering the product, determine

how much (if any) additional clearance (often called deducts) will be required to accommodate accessory items.

Establishing a deduct involves determining what dimension needs to be deducted from the opening size in order

to determine the window size, while allowing for the appropriate clearance to fit the window and accessories in

place. The following accessory items are commonly used in the field and may require specific deducts.

Panning Use

When planning to use panning, keep in mind that numerous styles, shapes and configurations are available.

Typically the type of panning selected is determined by making a sketch of the existing brick mold. If trying to


replicate the existing building trim (brick mold), the sketch will help the manufacturer find an existing shape within

their inventory that is suitable for use on the project.

Some manufacturers may agree to provide custom panning to match the configuration on the job (see Figure 11-9

for some examples of common panning shapes).

Figure 11-9 Examples of Common Panning Shapes

If an exact replication isn't necessary, or if the building owner desires to change the look of the existing window

trim, manufacturers typically have standard shapes that will meet the intended look.

A few important things to consider when deciding to use panning are:

• The amount of clearance between the existing window and the new window.

• The depth the new panning must reach in order to extend out and over the existing trim.

• The amount that the new panning must extend in order to cover over the existing trim and sealant while

allowing enough tolerance for field trimming.

• Whether the panning will have a contoured appearance often called historical panning, or whether the

panning will have a relatively flat profile. Historical (contoured) panning normally requires that the head and

jamb pieces be identical in shape, and that they be mitered together at the corners.

All of these factors will play an important part in determining what the new panning shape will look like, as well as

determine how much to deduct from the opening size in order to get the exact order size for the new window.

(See Figure 11-10 to see how two different types of panning will change the deductions made when determining

the exact window size.)


Figure 11-10 Panning Height and Projection

Determine Like Sizes

Ordering windows also involves grouping like sizes together in replacement applications. After determining all of

the opening sizes, group like sizes (openings within 1/4”) together. When doing this, group sizes together that are

less than (smaller than) the largest size in the group.

For example, assume there are openings that measure 28-1/2”, 28-3/8”, 28-5/16” and 28-1/4". Each of these

could be grouped together based on the smallest opening size of 28-1/4" and still fit nicely in the opening. When

deciding to group windows, always verify the acceptable tolerance for grouping with the manufacturer.

Trim Use

When using panning, trim is often used as a finished piece on the interior. Trim is also available in numerous

shapes, sizes and configurations (see Figure 11-11).

Because trim may be used to hold the window into position and is often a structural component, the design of the

trim must take into consideration the amount of overlap on the both the window and the existing condition.

The amount of overlap, the clearance provisions and the configuration of the existing trim (if it is to remain in

place) all have an impact on the size and profile of the new trim. (See Figure 11-12 for examples of how trim size

and shape are determined.)


Figure 11-11 Common Types of Trim

Figure 11-12 Determining Trim Requirements

Receptor and Subsill Use:

Receptors and subsills are often used in situations where more clearance is required due to field tolerances and

various types of movement. Custom shapes are often used in buildings where excessive movement is expected


from building live load, product expansion and seismic movement. (See Figure 11-13 for examples of various

receptors and subsills.)

The type of receptor and subsill used also has a bearing on the exact size of the window/door ordered. Often the

specifications and/or architectural drawings will dictate the amount of movement expected. Using this information,

and considering the amount of overlap between the receptor and the window, an exact window size can be

determined.

(See Figure 11-14 for an example of how to establish exact sizes based on the required overlap and the

allowance for movement.)

Other accessory items will have an impact on the exact sizing of the new windows and doors ordered for a

particular job. Always consult with the manufacturer for assistance in establishing the exact window size when

ordering the windows.

Regardless of who is responsible for placing the order, the installer is responsible for making sure the intent is

followed. This means a coordinated effort between the installer and the manufacturer to ensure that the design

intent, clearance provisions and allowance for movement are followed.

Caution: When using high performance subsills, consult with the owner about the overall sill height (as measured

from the floor) and the potential for a trip hazard. To reduce the potential for trip hazards, installers may want to

offer to build a suitable step or ramp in front of the door opening.


Figure 11-13 Common Receptors and Subsills


Figure 11-14 Example of Window Sizing Based on the Use of Receptor and Subsills

11.3 Installation Tolerances

The following chart provides guidelines for installers regarding installation tolerances for finished work. This chart

indicates acceptable deviations (plus or minus) from plumb, level and square as suggested by window

manufacturers. The manufacturer may dictate stricter tolerances; therefore consult with the manufacturer

regarding the specific requirements.


Unit Shimming Tolerance (+/-) Nominal

Inches/

Foot

Inches Maximu

m

Method of Measureme

nt Level

(Horizontal Measurement)

1/32" 1/8" Level and

steel rule or tape

Plumb (Vertical

Measurement) 1/32" 1/8"

Level or plumb-line and steel

rule or tape True

(In Plane Measurement)

1/32" 1/8"

Using strings across corners

Straight/True (Measure of Straightness)

1/64" 1/16"

Level or plumb-line and steel

rule or tape Square

(Diagonal Measurement)

NA 1/8" * 1/4" **

Steel rule or tape

* Openings up to 20 square feet

** Openings over 20 square feet

It would be impractical to assume every window/door unit would be installed perfectly plumb, level and square.

However, following these unit shimming tolerances is critical to the water performance integrity of the installed

unit. For this reason, AAMA recognizes that the expected results for field water performance tests are typically

less than that of a laboratory test.

Consult AAMA 502-02 for installed unit water performance test requirements and expectations.

11.4 Shipping Instructions

In addition to providing measurements and templates, critical information pertaining to shipping requirements is

also important. The person placing the order needs to communicate the desired load sequence and shipping

instructions to the manufacturer.

Shipping sequence/distribution is usually critical on larger projects with numerous phases, but may be important

to the installer on any job. Installation companies often are aware of specific project information of which the

manufacturer has no knowledge. As an example, there may be times when only the windows on the east side, or

just windows on floors 12-18, can be installed. Without this information, the manufacturer may ship the products

without regard for sequence, requiring storage on the job site.

This information will also help the manufacturer mark and load the windows and accessories on the truck so that

upon arrival at the job site, they can be unloaded and distributed to the proper place with much greater ease. At

the job site, coordination is necessary, but the task will be much easier if the correct information is provided upon

placement of the order.


Information such as building number, floor number, elevation number, opening number and unit number can all be

of assistance. Provide all job related requirements pertaining to labeling, shipping sequence and marking to the

manufacturer prior to the award of the contract.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

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Table of Contents

12.1 New Window and Door Inspection .............................................................................................................1

12.1.1 Verifying Proper Location ...................................................................................................................1

12.1.2 Inspection of New Products ................................................................................................................1

12.1.3 Verification of Size and Clearances ....................................................................................................1

12.2 Handling and Storage .................................................................................................................................2






12.0 Inspection and Storage of Windows and Doors

Conduct a thorough inspection of the product immediately after receipt. Be careful to store windows and doors

properly and in accordance with the guidelines of this manual or the manufacturer’s instructions when installation

will not take place immediately.

12.1 New Window and Door Inspection

When new windows and doors arrive on site, it is important to verify that they are the correct size and type.

Always inspect them for damage.

12.1.1 Verifying Proper Location

Prior to installation, the installer shall verify the proposed location of the new product by:

1. Checking the plans

2. Verifying the physical location of the installation such as floor, elevation and opening number

3. Checking the packaging for mark and location numbers, which are to be coordinated with the shop drawings

12.1.2 Inspection of New Products

Carefully inspect the new product for size, type, operability and damage. Observe the following steps when

inspecting new products:

1. Unwrap and thoroughly inspect the products. In replacement applications, do this prior to removing the

existing window. Be aware that some manufacturers include banding, spacers, shims or other packaging

items that are not to be removed until after the window or door is properly installed. Be sure to follow the

manufacturer's instructions for how and when to remove these items.

2. Check for shipping or material damages, seal fractures and racked corners. If found, file a freight claim.

• Inventory the miscellaneous parts, panning, trim, receptors, etc.

• Always count the material as it is unloaded, and document any missing or damaged materials.

3. If any component of the main frame is damaged, repair or replace it prior to demolition of the old product.

4. Some moving parts can be repaired after the product is installed:

• Locks

• Balances

• Glass

• Rails

5. If the window was opened during inspection, make sure it is closed and locked again prior to installation.

6. If the operable sash is to be removed prior to installation, make sure to mark the sash with the corresponding

frame so that it can be reinstalled in the original window frame.

7. Be aware of protective coverings that are applied to the frames. If present, make a determination as to when

they will be removed, but be sure to remove them before the final perimeter seal is done.

12.1.3 Verification of Size and Clearances

It is important to check the measurements of the new unit and compare them to the opening prior to installation.

Practice the following steps to verify size and clearance:

1. Determine the amount of clearance required for each product according to the manufacturer's

recommendations and/or shop drawings.

2. Place product in opening.


3. Check for adequate clearance.

12.2 Handling and Storage

When windows and doors are not installed immediately upon delivery, they must be properly stored and protected

until used.

The following recommendations will be useful when handling and storing windows and doors:

• Check manufacturer's instructions for:

- Recommendation for transporting, storing and handling products.

- Suggestions for extreme cold or hot weather use and handling.

• Unload products safely. Make sure the truck is not positioned such that the windows/doors are leaning and

could fall toward the installer (see Figure 12-1). If necessary, reposition the truck.

• Windows and doors shall be transported in an upright position with temporary bracing in place. Never stack

windows/doors on top of one another (flat) on the floor.

• Use special care when transporting heavy frames, being careful not to pull the sash or glass away from the

frame.

• Don’t use the banding to carry the window frames. Bands are not designed to support the weight of the frame

and may break due to the excessive load.

• Temporary cross-bracing shall be applied to maintain squareness. Diagonal braces or spacer strips, where

possible, shall not be removed until after the installation is complete.

• Wear clean gloves when handling new windows and doors. Always use caution when handling the

frames/glass in order to avoid material or finish damage

Figure 12-1 Safely Unloading Trucks

To properly store windows and doors, remember these tips:


1. Do not remove packaging except to verify dimensions and conditions of contents, until just prior to

installation.

2. Windows and doors shall be stored upright on a flat surface. Whenever possible, allow them to sit on their sill

(see Figure 12-2).

3. When storing materials at the job site, make sure they are in a secure location. Also, make sure they cannot

be blown over by the winds.

4. Store windows/doors so that the first in is the last out. Plan to store the products in the sequence they will be

installed.

5. Windows, doors and accessories shall be stored out of the weather in a clean, dry, low traffic area, off the

ground, not in direct sunlight, and not subject to damage. Don't stack products in a row against each other in

the sun as the glass units may experience excessive heat absorption.

6. If not fully packaged, use some type of cover to prevent damage from dust, dirt and moisture. Windows shall

be protected until the finish trim is installed to help protect from dust, and other materials and processes

employed on the site.

7. Block and secure the corners of windows and doors with relatively thin flanges to prevent damage to the

flanges prior to installation.

8. Sills shall be protected to prevent damage during construction.

Figure 12-2 Properly Storing Windows

To prepare for installation of accessories, make sure to distribute the correct pieces to the corresponding opening.

Use the following tips as a guide:

1. Check the shop drawings to determine the opening type and location.


2. Look for mark numbers on the drawings (per floor/elevation) which correspond to the mark numbers on the

packaging.

3. Check the shipping sheets and verify all materials were shipped and accounted for when they arrived on the

job site.

4. Make sure the job site is secure so the accessories don’t end up missing.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

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__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

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__________________________________


Table of Contents

13.1 Introduction .................................................................................................................................................1

13.2 Shims ..........................................................................................................................................................1

13.2.1 Purpose ...............................................................................................................................................1

13.2.2 Types of Shims ...................................................................................................................................1

13.2.3 Shim Application .................................................................................................................................2

13.3 Flashing ......................................................................................................................................................3

13.3.1 Purpose ...............................................................................................................................................3

13.3.2 Types of Flashing Materials ................................................................................................................4

13.3.3 Flashing Application ............................................................................................................................8

13.4 Fasteners ....................................................................................................................................................9

13.4.1 Purpose ...............................................................................................................................................9

13.4.2 Fastener Materials ..............................................................................................................................9

13.4.3 Fastener Application ........................................................................................................................ 10

13.5 Sealants ................................................................................................................................................... 12

13.5.1 Purpose ............................................................................................................................................ 12

13.5.2 Sealant Materials ............................................................................................................................. 13

13.5.3 Choosing the Proper Sealant .......................................................................................................... 13

13.5.4 Joint Movement and Sealant Movement Capability ........................................................................ 17

13.5.5 Sealant Adhesion ............................................................................................................................. 17

13.5.6 Sealant Compatibility ....................................................................................................................... 17






13.5.7 Joint and Sealant Dimensions ......................................................................................................... 18

13.5.8 Surface Preparation ......................................................................................................................... 18

13.5.9 Use of Back-Up Materials ................................................................................................................ 19

13.5.10 Sealant Application and Tooling .................................................................................................. 21

13.5.11 Final Sealing (Interior) ................................................................................................................. 22

13.6 Cavity Insulation ...................................................................................................................................... 22

13.6.1 Purpose ............................................................................................................................................ 22

13.6.2 Materials .......................................................................................................................................... 22

13.6.3 Installation ........................................................................................................................................ 23

13.6.4 Expanding Foam Product Precautions ............................................................................................ 23

13.7 Priming and Painting ................................................................................................................................ 24

13.7.1 Purpose ............................................................................................................................................ 24

13.7.2 Materials .......................................................................................................................................... 24

13.7.3 Application ....................................................................................................................................... 25

13.7.4 Separation from Incompatible Materials .......................................................................................... 25

AAMA CIM-XX, DRAFT #X, DATED X/X/15 PAGE 13-II

13.0 Material Selection and Use

13.1 Introduction

Various materials are required for installing windows and doors. Selecting shims, flashings, sealants and other

window or door installation materials can sometimes be complicated. Therefore, read this chapter carefully, and

remember that the manufacturer's instructions take priority and shall be followed when selecting and installing

materials.

13.2 Shims

13.2.1 Purpose

In commercial applications, shims are commonly thin, flat pieces of high-impact plastic or metal, used to level or

plumb a window or door frame during installation. They also help to prevent sagging, deflection, distortion and

rotation of the frame. Lateral shims are placed at the jambs, and setting shims are placed at the sill. Some

jurisdictions may require metal shims for fire resistance.

13.2.2 Types of Shims

Shims are often classified by material and/or style (see Figure 13-1). There are numerous variations of shims,

including:

• Flat

• Rectangular

• Horseshoe

• Single or stackable shims that come in packs

Figure 13-1 Types of Shims

Flat shims can be used singularly or stacked on top of one another. Rectangular shims, horseshoe shims and

shim packs are typically made of high-impact plastic. These shims can be used in all applications and often come

in a range of colors that indicate the thickness.


Plastic shims are sometimes manufactured in packs, which can measure up to an inch or more in thickness. To

use a shim pack, determine the thickness needed and then snap off what isn't necessary. After obtaining the right

thickness for the application, slide the shim pack under the frame.

Follow these guidelines when selecting shims for a specific use:

• Shim material must be adequate for each application.

• Shims for sill support require greater compressive strength. The high-impact plastic or metal shims shall be

capable of supporting a compressive load of 1100 psi. This capacity is particularly important for windows that

support their entire weight on a narrow ridge or flange.

13.2.3 Shim Application

The proper number and positioning of shims are important. Position them where support is needed (see Figure

13-2).

• Do not over or under shim; either can cause distortion of the frame.

• Position shims so that the edge of the window frame does not vary more than ±1/16" from being straight.

• Whenever possible, locate shims directly under the fastener. At the jambs, a horseshoe shim can easily be

placed over the shaft of the fastener so the shim will stay in place.

• Shims shall be installed to allow clearance for continuous bond breaker or backer rod and sealant, and permit

proper sealant joint depth and width.

• The outside surface of shims must be parallel and provide continuous contact and uniform support across the

entire depth of the window frame. When necessary, blocking can be added within the cavity of the frame to

help create a suitable support surface.


Figure 13-2 Typical Shim Application Prior to Trimming

Sides and Top

• "Lateral" shims are often placed between the side jambs and frame to square the window.

• Shims used to establish spacing at anchor points must be penetrated by the anchor. They are trimmed as

needed, but not removed.

• Temporary shims used in the leveling or squaring process are not required for permanent support, and may

be removed after the frame is securely anchored.

Bottom

• "Setting" shims and support blocks are installed between the window sill and the rough sill. When installing

replacement windows, shims may be placed between the new sill and old window sill.

• The sill must be supported in a straight and level position at a minimum of three points. In the absence of

manufacturer's instructions, place these shims shall be placed 3" from the ends and at the middle of the sill.

Support windows that are wider than 38" with shims located approximately 16" on center.

13.3 Flashing

13.3.1 Purpose

Flashing in commercial applications consists of a piece of waterproof material that bridges the joint between the

interior construction and the exterior building components. Flashing is used for the purpose of diverting any

moisture from above or below the opening back to the exterior.


Most wall leaks can be attributed to lack of flashing, poor flashing techniques, or deteriorated flashing. Flashing

actually helps drain water away from the window/door to the exterior.

There are two basic types of flashing products used in conjunction with the installation with windows and doors in

commercial applications:

• Flexible Flashing; and

• Rigid Flashing

13.3.2 Types of Flashing Materials

Flexible Flashing

Flexible flashing typically consists of a flexible, formable, water-proof sheet material. Flexible flashing materials

are typically applied to the condition prior to the window or door installation. As an example, flexible flashing is

often used above the head of the window on top of the steel lintel in brick or stone applications. Flexible flashing

must include an upturned leg on the interior to keep any residual water that is collected from running toward the

interior. Flashing must also be properly terminated with end dams and spliced to be waterproof and direct water

out and away from the opening.

Whenever attaching window or door components to the opening condition, consider whether the fasteners will

penetrate any flashing components. Always review the architectural drawings to determine where flashing may

occur and avoid penetrating the flashing with attachment fasteners.

When determining where to set the window within an opening, make sure to look for flashing at the head, and

avoid positioning and sealing the window in front of the flashing (see Figure 13-3). If the sealant line is positioned

in front of the flashing, water can be trapped behind the installation, causing water to drain on top of the window

or door.


Figure 13-3 Proper Placement of Window when used in Conjunction with Flashing

Rigid Flashing

Rigid flashing is typically galvanized metal, stainless steel, aluminum or copper sheet metal (see Table 13-1). It is

often custom made to fit a particular condition. Rigid flashing is typically used at the head and sill condition to

carry incidental water from the interior to the exterior of the opening.

While these materials are often not supplied or applied by the installer, the installer must use caution when

working in conjunction with these materials in order to keep from destroying their performance characteristics.

The installer should never penetrate the flashing components with fasteners unless they can be properly sealed to

keep them watertight.


RIGID FLASHING

Material Traits and Uses

Galvanized Metal and Stainless Steel

• Shall be no less than 26 gauge in thickness

• Sheet metal other than 300 series stainless steel shall be zinc coated on both sides, and the coatings can be hot dipped galvanized or electroplate.

• Can be surface-treated for painting by phosphatizing.

Aluminum/ Copper sheet or step flashing

• Rigid flashing shall be no less that 0.40" thick except for rigid head flashing made with 0.019" (min.) coil stock.

• Can be mill finish if totally concealed.

• If exposed, must be anodized or coated with appropriate paint.

• In all cases, aluminum sheet must be separated from dissimilar metals and/or masonry with:

1. Tape 2. Gaskets 3. Elastomeric sheets 4. A heavy coat of

bituminous paint 5. Other approved

separation materials

Terne Metal

• Must consist of copper bearing steel

• Coated both sides with lead-tin alloy

• Coating weights are typically 0.047 lb/sf

Table 13-1 Types of Rigid Flashing

Sill Pan Flashing

A sill pan is a piece of flashing where the interior leg and ends are bent up vertically (or panned) to prevent water

from flowing into the wall or interior finishes. When part of the contract, sill pans may be provided for the job and

installed by the installer.

When sill pans are provided:


• Sill flashing shall be sloped toward the exterior.

• Height of the pan must be appropriate for the windows and glass doors being installed.

• Always follow the manufacturer's instructions, or the advice of a professional architect or engineer.

• When flashing needs to be spliced due to length, follow the guidelines provided in the sealant section of this

chapter regarding joint types.

• Seal between the upturned leg of the sill pan and the interior face of the product in order to maintain the

air/water seal.

• Pan flashing materials by design extend through most of a wall's thickness. When fabricated from sheet

metal, pan flashing can act as a thermal bridge, transferring cold from exterior to interior. Where this poses a

problem, such as in cold-climate areas along with high indoor humidity, choose materials with a lower thermal

conductivity. The selection of the pan flashing material is the responsibility of the approving authority and/or

building designer, not the installer. The installer is encouraged to consult with these authorities when the sill

pan material is not specified.

Note: The interior leg (H1) of the sill pan flashing is based on the expected performance level of the window or

door being installed (see Figure 13-4). Table 13-2 can be used to determine the interior leg height if the water test

pressure (in psf) or the corresponding design pressure (in psf) is known.

Figure 13-4 Sill Pan Diagram

Determining Interior Leg Heights


WTP DP H1

Water Test Pressure

(PSF)

Design Pressure

(PSF)

Water Height and Minimum

Leg Height

4.50 30 1"

5.25 35 1-1/8"

6.00 40 1-5/16"

6.75 45 1-7/16"

7.50 50 1-5/8"

8.25 55 1-3/4"

9.00 60 1-7/8"

9.75 65 2"

10.50 70 2-3/16”

11.25 75 2-5/16”

12.00 80 2-7/16”

Table: 13-2 Pan Height

Example: The product being installed is rated to meet a 6.0 psf water test pressure. To make the sill pan flashing

meet the same level of performance, the height of the interior leg is required to be at least 1-5/16" tall from the

inside of the bend.

Note: Water height and minimum leg height calculations are approximate. To allow for field-installed tolerances,

1/8” was added to the figures before rounding up to the nearest 1/16”.

13.3.3 Flashing Application

The installation of flashing is critical to maintaining the water performance integrity of the completed installation.

Be cautious when applying flashing. Proper installation of flashing means four things:

1. Flashing is installed in "Weather-Board Fashion;" this means that each piece of flashing is logically applied

and integrated with other components. Always starting with the lowest section (if more than one piece is

used), overlapping the lower section with the next higher section.

2. Flashing must be protected from damage. Always take the steps necessary to secure the flashing into

position so that when the windows are installed, the flashing is still functional. When flashing has been

damaged, the material shall be replaced or repaired properly.

3. Flashing is subject to various types of damage throughout the construction process. Holes caused by screws,

nails and other fasteners penetrating the flashing can reduce the weather-shielding ability of the installation.

4. Be sure to use proper sealing and splicing techniques. Use appropriate sealant joint designs as outlined in

Section 13.5. The flashing must be properly integrated with any water resistant barrier being used on the job.


13.4 Fasteners

13.4.1 Purpose

For products to perform as indicated through testing, they must be installed as instructed by the manufacturer.

Fasteners must be selected and installed to secure the weight, wind load and temperature variations of the

product to meet the correct requirements.

Consult with the window/door manufacturer and/or a qualified structural engineer regarding fastening

requirements to ensure the units are installed to meet and/or exceed the expected performance criteria.

Manufacturers frequently are required to provide a complete set of calculations to pinpoint the fastener

requirements for projects. When provided, calculations will supply clear instructions as to what fasteners are to be

used in specific applications and conditions.

When calculations are not provided, the selection of the appropriate fastening method is the responsibility of the

approving authority in cooperation with the installer.

Always refer to the local codes, building official, window manufacturer and/or a qualified structural engineer for

fastener requirements in regions with special wind-loading considerations (e.g., special wind-load regions,

seismic-loading zones, hurricane prone areas, etc.).

The anchoring of mulled and/or multiple units will most certainly require different fastener spacing requirements.

Always consult with the manufacturer regarding the fastening requirements for mulled units.

See Chapter 17, Section 17.1.3 for more information on expansion, contraction and other movement when

attaching windows and doors.

13.4.2 Fastener Materials

Fasteners must be corrosion resistant and compatible with the materials contacted and/or penetrated. Table 13-3

is provided to show some of the recommended performance requirements based on anticipated fastener

exposure.


Fastener Selection Chart

Fastener Material

Fastener Exposure

Performance Requirement

Steel – Cadmium Plated

Not Visible after Installation

ASTM B766 (8 Microns Thick)

Visible after installation

Not Recommended

Steel – Zinc Plated


ASTM B633 (8 Microns Thick)


Not Recommended

Steel – Nickel/Chrome Plated


ASTM B 456 Type SC 2


Not Recommended

Magnetic Stainless Steel 400 Series Min. 16% Chrome

Not Visible after Installation Recommended

Visible after Installation

Not Recommended

Nonmagnetic Stainless Steel. 300 Series

Not Visible after Installation Recommended

Visible after Installation Recommended

Table 13-3 Fastener Selection Chart

13.4.3 Fastener Application

The type of fastener used will vary from job to job and may change numerous times according to your job specific

application and/or building conditions. As an example, the fastener used in a solid concrete wall condition will

typically not work in a hollow masonry wall.

Fastener manufacturers are very knowledgeable about fastener types and uses, and should be consulted

whenever there is a question about the type of fastener to be used and how it is applied. Many fasteners require

special application techniques and tools. The supplier of these fasteners will be able to assist the installer in

selecting and using the right tools for the job. Determine the type of substrate that you will be anchoring into first

(see Table 13-4), then make a selection as to the appropriate type of fastener to use.


Window/Door Anchor Types

Substrate Fastener Type

Concrete

Expansion Anchors

Epoxy or Acrylic Adhesive Set Threaded Rods

Tap-in Anchors

Stone

Tap-in Anchors


Solid Masonry

Expansion Anchors


Tap-in Anchors

Hollow Masonry

Toggle Anchors


Structural Steel

Powder Actuated Fasteners

Welding

Self Drilling Screws

Cold Formed Steel Self Drilling Screws

Wood Wood Screws

Table 13-4 Anchor Types

Consider the following cautions and general rules of thumb when installing fasteners:

• Always follow the fastener/anchor manufacturer’s guidelines for proper edge distance, load capacity and

installation techniques.

• Never place fasteners too close to the edge of a concrete or block wall , or too close together when applying

fasteners in pairs, as damage may occur to the concrete or block. (A general rule of thumb is to keep bolts at

least six times the diameter away from the edge, and 10 times the diameter away from an adjacent fastener.

Thus, the edge distance for a 1/4” diameter fastener would be 1-1/2”, while the center-to-center distance

would be 2-1/2”.)

• The embedment depth of an expansion bolt can also have an impact on edge distance. (A rule of thumb is

that the edge distance for an expansion bolt shall be no less than the embedded length. Thus, a 3” bolt with a

2-1/4” embedment would dictate that the edge distance be a minimum of 2-1/4”.)

• Many fastener manufacturers have specific guidelines available for each particular product type, and often

have service technicians available for field consultation.

• The fastener head must be wide enough to cover the pre-punched hole or slot in the frame or accessory.

When slotted connections are used, the fastener head may need to be backed up by washers to allow for

adjustment and expansion.


• Manufacturers may supply slots in their framing which are designed to be structurally adequate for the

fastener and anchor loads expected. Do not slot the framing or enlarge holes or slots provided by the

manufacturer without consulting the manufacturer or a licensed professional engineer.

• Fasteners must not cause warping or distortion of the frame/sash, and must not hinder proper operation of the

unit.

• Fastener length must allow for sufficient penetration into the substrate to comply with fastener installation

instructions and local code requirements.

• Avoid penetrating the sill tracks unless recommended by the manufacturer.

• If screws must be installed in the sill, inject sealant into the hole before installing the screw, and seal over the

head after seating the screw.

• Be careful not to over shim at fastener locations, as undue stress and bending of the fastener may result.

Always provide suitable support at fastener locations. (A good rule of thumb is to limit the shim pack height to

twice the diameter of the fastener. Thus, use a maximum of a 1/2” shim pack when using a 1/4” diameter

fastener.)

• When screws pass through the first layer of a hollow extrusion which is visible after installation, fill the holes

with compatible plugs or cover with trim.

• Make sure that fasteners are secure after installation. In block, brick or concrete applications, check each

fastener to ensure that it is properly grabbing the substrate.

• Follow the manufacturer's instructions when attaching window and door frames to the building condition,

especially at hinge points where loads may increase significantly.

• Always consult with the contractor when attaching into concrete masonry units (CMU). Determine if the cells

are filled with grout as this will have a bearing on what type of fastener is used.

• Another rule of thumb is that “bigger is not always better.” Due to edge distance requirements, bigger bolts

may actually create problems when substituted for a smaller fastener that was specified. Always consult with

a structural engineer when planning to make substitutions.

• When using self-tapping fasteners, make sure you follow the fastener manufacturer’s instructions. The type

and thickness of the material you are penetrating will have an impact on the type of fastener and the point

required. (Example: When the fastener specifications say, “appropriate for a maximum of 0.120” aluminum,”

don’t use it in 0.125” steel.)

• When using self-drilling fasteners, be sure to select fasteners that will not allow hydrogen embrittlement (see

AAMA TIR A9 for further information).

13.5 Sealants

13.5.1 Purpose

Sealants are used to prevent infiltration of air and water through joints between the opening and the window or

glass door, or accessories. When visible, sealants also contribute to the finished appearance of the installed

product.

The long-term continuity between the components of the building envelope relies on the proper sealant selection,

joint dimensions and sealant application.


Many windows and doors are installed adjacent to building materials such as brick, stone, concrete and numerous

others. When windows and doors are installed after these building materials are set in place a properly sized

perimeter joint must always be used.

Some substrate materials like stucco, EIFS and metal panels require a receiver (often J-shaped molding) that is

designed to be applied after window installation. Always seal the joint between the receiver and the window or

door, rather than sealing the product directly to the substrate material. Always follow the EIFS/Stucco

manufacturer's instructions for the proper method of sealing, and use receivers as required.

Proper joint size and sealing techniques outlined in the following sections must be followed. The building

contractor (or the installer if he is also the building contractor) is responsible for the proper integration and

coordination of this work in order to ensure the completion and quality of this seal; however, proper installation is

the responsibility of all parties.

13.5.2 Sealant Materials

Sealing requirements will vary from job to job. It is important that the installer select and use the proper sealant

based on the materials and design considerations (anticipated movement, locations where sealant will be used,

etc.) on each job.

Frequently, the architect, builder or window manufacturer will specify sealants to be used for installation. If not,

seek input from the approving authority and/or sealant manufacturer. If no other information is available, use

Tables 13-5 and 13-6 as a starting point in the selection process. All sealants have a shelf-life. Care should be

taken that sealant is used before the end of the shelf-life.

Sealant labels and technical data sheets from the sealant manufacturer provide some documentation of the basic

selection principles listed in the following section.

13.5.3 Choosing the Proper Sealant

It is important to properly select and apply sealants. ASTM standards C 1193 and C 1299 provide information on

sealant selection and use.

There are basic principles one must consider when selecting and/or installing sealants:

• Movement

• Adhesion

• Compatibility

• Surface preparation

• Joint and sealant dimensions

• Use of back-up materials

• Sealant application/tooling


Sealant Adhesion Guide

Silic

one

Poly

uret

hane

Late

x (m

eetin

g AS

TM C

920)

Solv

ent

Rel

ease

d

Aluminum Mill Finish Yes Yes Yes Yes

Aluminum Anodized Yes Yes Yes Yes

Asphalt Bldg. Paper Yes Yes Yes NR

Brick Yes Yes Yes Yes

Concrete Yes Yes Yes Some

Copper Yes Yes Some Yes

EIFS Yes Yes Some NR

Fiberglass Yes Yes Some Some

Galvanized Steel Yes Some Some Yes

Glass Yes Some Yes Yes

Painted Surfaces Yes Yes Yes Yes

Polyethylene Some Yes No Yes

Polystyrene Foam Board Yes Yes Yes NR

Stucco Yes Yes Yes Some

Bld’g. Wrap Some Some Some Some

Vinyl Some Yes

Yes Som

e

Yes Som

e Some

Wood Yes Yes Yes Yes

= Neutral Cure Silicone Only = Check Paint Individually = Check for Compatibility

NR = Not Recommended Some = Many Are Not Adequate

Yes = Majority Are Adequate

Table 13-5 Sealant Adhesion


All sealant make-ups (e.g. Silicone) are not equal – thus, one product may work while another product may not.

Make sure to verify the use of the sealant for the particular application with the sealant manufacturer.

Note: All sealant make-ups (e.g. Silicone) are not equal – thus, one product may work while another product may not. Make sure to verify the use of the sealant for the particular application with the sealant manufacturer.


Sealant Application Guide

Silic

one

Poly

uret

han

e

Late

x (m

eetin

g AS

TM

C92

0)

Solv

ent

Rel

ease

d

Header Expander Yes Yes Yes Some

Sill Expander Yes Yes Yes Some

Sill Angle Yes Some Yes Some

Blind Stop Yes Yes Yes Yes

Capping Yes Some Yes Some

Interior Trim and Stool NR Yes Yes NR

Mull Seal Yes Yes Some NR

Subsill End Cap and

Splice Joints Yes Yes Some Some

Receptor Yes Yes Yes Some

Exterior Perimeter Yes Yes Yes Some

Stack Mullion Yes Yes Yes Some

Panning Yes Yes Yes Some

Box Frame to Opening Yes Yes Yes Some

Under Flashing Yes Yes Some Some

Threshold Yes Yes Some Some

Sill Pan Yes Yes Some Some

= Match Sealant Movement Capability to Anticipated Joint Movement (See Table 13-6)

= Check Adhesion and Compatibility to Mating Surfaces

NR = Not Recommended

Some = Many Are Not Adequate

Yes = Majority Are Adequate

Table 13-6 Sealant Application


13.5.4 Joint Movement and Sealant Movement Capability

Sealant joints are designed to move with the expansion and contraction of different building materials. Joints in

commercial installations require an elastomeric sealant. The following specifications (see Table 13-7) apply to

joint movement:

Amount of Joint Movement

Sealant Specification

15% – 25% ASTM C920 Class 12.5

25% – 50% ASTM C920 Class 25

Table 13-7 Joint Movement

If joint movement is unknown and cannot be determined, use a sealant meeting ASTM C 920, Class 25 or better.

Note: Whenever there is a question about what sealant to use in a given application, do not hesitate to contact the

sealant supplier. They typically have a staff of technical representatives on hand to answer questions and perform

tests on job site materials to verify and approve sealant types and application methods.

13.5.5 Sealant Adhesion

Many kinds of materials are encountered in window and door installation. The variety of substrates, flashings,

framing materials and window materials is almost infinite. In addition, sealant products within any one sealant type

(polyurethane, silicone or acrylic) can vary considerably in adhesion to a given material. Therefore:

• Verify with the material or sealant manufacturer(s) that the sealant has acceptable adhesion to the specified

materials.

• Submit required sample materials to the sealant supplier for testing purposes.

• Obtain documentation of adhesion to specific materials.

Adhesion recommendations are based on:

• ASTM C 794 testing.

• Exposure to outdoor conditions for exterior applications.

See Section 23.1 for information about quality control and spot-checking for adhesion on the job site.

13.5.6 Sealant Compatibility

Compatibility with all surfaces in direct contact with the sealant is essential. The sealant(s) and other materials

must retain their properties without being affected by one another. Common indications of sealant incompatibility

are evident when the sealant shows signs of:

• Hardening

• Softening

• Tackiness

• Loss of adhesion

• Discoloration and bleeding

Always obtain documentation of compatibility between the various materials and the sealant from the sealant

manufacturer(s).


13.5.7 Joint and Sealant Dimensions

No matter how good the sealant's movement capability and adhesion, the sealed joint can still fail if proper joint

and sealant dimensions (joint geometry) are not incorporated into the installation. This is particularly critical in

joints where large amounts of movement occur, such as in perimeter joints. Refer to Chapter 17, Section 17.1.3,

for more information regarding the expansion and contraction of various materials when considering joint sizes.

Shop drawings and architectural blueprints shall be reviewed and followed for sealant joint details. If there are no

drawings or specified joint dimensions, the sealant manufacturer shall be contacted for recommendations on

minimum and maximum dimensions. Some guidelines can also be found in ASTM C 1193.

Unless otherwise specified by the sealant manufacturer, observe the following practices:

1. A minimum of 1/4" wide sealant bond to each contacting surface is necessary to ensure adequate adhesion.

• Only mechanically fixed joints with little or no movement can be sealed with less bond area.

• Never try to bond to a surface which is less than 1/4".

2. In butt joints, the width must be large enough so that there is sufficient sealant to accommodate joint

movement. The principle is that wider joints accommodate more movement than do narrow joints. Again, a

general rule of thumb is 3/8” nominal width. In butt joint applications, the sealant joint should be at least twice

the expected expansion.

• In butt joints 3/8" to 1/2" wide, the depth of the sealant shall be no less than 1/4", and in no case shall the

depth be greater than the width. For joints 1/2" to 1" wide, the depth shall be one-half the width.

13.5.8 Surface Preparation

Each joint surface (including the window/door) must be inspected and properly prepared to ensure that the

sealant will adhere properly. Surfaces must be:

1. Sound (Free of rotted wood, loose paint, mortar or concrete, corrosion, etc.)

2. Clean (Free of dirt, dust, oily substances, and/or old sealant.)

3. Dry and free of frost.

Follow sealant manufacturer's instruction for specific material and conditions. Some general guidelines are as

follows:

1. Removal by abrasive cleaning may be needed to obtain acceptable adhesion. Abrasive cleaning may involve:

− Sanding

− Wire brushing

− Grinding

− Saw cutting

− Sand or water blasting

− Mechanical abrading

− Combination of these methods

Note: Avoid breathing dust caused by any of these methods. Sealants and adjacent materials can contain

hazardous chemicals. Wear a NIOSH approved dust mask when performing this type of work. See Section 8.2.1

for more information.


2. Remove dust, dirt and other loose particles by brushing or wiping.

3. Remove oily substances with solvent dampened cloth. Change cloths frequently to prevent redepositing oily

residue. The solvent-cleaned surface must be immediately wiped dry with a clean cloth (solvent should not be

allowed to evaporate on the surface).

4. When working with irregular surfaces like stone aggregate, consider using a diamond cup grinding wheel to

grind a smooth surface for the sealant. Rough surfaces will often not allow the sealant to get into the crevices.

5. When resealing joints previously sealed with silicone sealants, use silicone sealant or remove all old sealant

residue to ensure adhesion of the new sealant.

• Completely remove all visible sealant by scraping the surface.

• Next, remove the thin layer of porous joint surface by sanding.

• If the surface is a nonporous material, wipe with solvent.

6. Consult with the sealant manufacturer to determine if primer is recommended. Follow instructions for primer

application very carefully.

13.5.9 Use of Back-Up Materials

Backer Rod

Backer rod (usually cylindrical in shape and compressible in structure) is used to limit joint depth and provide a

nonadherent (bond breaker) surface. A variety of backer rod materials are available. Compatibility with sealant

and primer should be confirmed by contacting the sealant manufacturer. Sealant shall not adhere to the backer

rod, thus allowing the sealant the freedom to move (expand/contract) within the joint.

• Backer rods are typically made of closed-cell polyethylene, urethane, neoprene, vinyl, butyl rubber or

polyvinyl chloride, and shall be compatible with the primers and sealants being used. ASTM C 1193 covers

the use of all types of backer rods in more detail. For specific recommendations, check with the sealant

manufacturer.

• In perimeter butt joints, use backer rods to control joint depth so the sealant thickness is in accordance with

guidelines in Section 13.5.7.

A closed-cell polyethylene backer rod is an ideal joint filler for several reasons:

• Most sealants do not adhere to it.

• It is resilient so it conforms to joint irregularities and responds to joint movement.

• It resists moisture absorption.

• It is typically a requirement in exterior insulation and finish systems.

For proper installation of this type of rod:

• The diameter of the rod shall be approximately 30% larger than the nominal width of the joint. (Rule of thumb:

rod diameter is at least 1/8" greater than joint width.) (See Figure 13-5).

• Backer rod should be inserted into the joint using a blunt probe or roller. Do not puncture, fold or crease the

backer rod as that could cause emission of gas and bubbling of the sealant.

• Do not apply joint primer to the backer rod.

Additional types of backer rods are available. See ASTM C 1193 for more information.


Figure 13-5 Perimeter Butt Joint

Bond Breaker

A bond breaker is usually a flat tape (e.g., polyethylene tape). It is used in butt and fillet joints to prevent sealant

adhesion to certain areas of the joint surfaces, thus preventing what is commonly referred to as "three-sided

adhesion" (see Figure 13-6). Three-sided adhesion restricts the sealant's ability to move with expansion and

contraction. It can cause premature cohesive failure of the seal.

• In butt joints that are too shallow for a backer rod, a bond breaker is installed over the bottom of the joint.

• In a butt joint, the sealant bead should adhere only to the ends of the two side surfaces. Failure to do so can

cause the bead to tear during joint expansion (see Figure 13-6). A bridge joint may also be applicable in this

condition. Bridge joints span over the joint and adhere to the exposed surfaces. Do not apply primer to a bond

breaker. Confirm compatibility of the bond breaker with the primer.

• In fillet (corner) joints, a bond breaker can be installed on one surface starting in the corner and extending out

only as far as needed to allow adequate bond area for the remaining surface contacted by sealant (see Figure

13-7).


Figure 13-6 Butt/Bridge Joint with Bond Breaker

Figure 13-7 Fillet Joint

13.5.10 Sealant Application and Tooling

All sealants have minimum and maximum application temperatures. If sealant is applied outside the

recommended temperature range, it may not develop adequate adhesion or physical properties. Contact the

sealant manufacturer for the recommended temperature range and any limitations due to inclement weather.

Several installation tips are listed below:

1. Cut the nozzle to the desired opening with a sharp knife. The angle of the cut should be approximately 45°.

2. For a smooth sealant bead, hold at a 45° angle and push the sealant in front of the nozzle.

3. Apply the sealant in a continuous bead.


4. Force sealants into the joint to ensure 100 percent contact with joint surfaces and in such a manner that will

not leave hidden voids below the sealant surface. The joint must be completely filled. Joints should be filled

from the bottom up to avoid entrapment of air pockets.

5. Tool the sealant surface to complete the filling of the joint and to provide a smooth surface.

6. Tool the sealant with light pressure before a skin forms (refer to the sealant manufacturer's product literature).

Tooling forces the sealant to fill the joint completely. Do not use liquid tooling aids, such as water, soap or

alcohol, because these materials may interfere with the curing process.

Sealant cure will be slowed in applications that significantly isolate the sealant from air. Examples of such

situations are bedding of flanges and flashing, and sealing under thresholds or panning (see Figure 13-8). Use

sealants recommended for these applications and confirm compatibility in these isolated situations.

Figure 13-8 Bedding Joint

13.5.11 Final Sealing (Interior)

Interior sealant is applied to the interior side of the rough opening. Observe the following steps when applying

interior sealant.

• Before sealing, check operation of the window/door.

• Use adequate ventilation and follow safety information supplied by the sealant manufacturer.

13.6 Cavity Insulation

13.6.1 Purpose

Cavity insulation is placed in the cavity between the new window unit and the sill, jambs and headers to reduce air

infiltration and heat transfer.

13.6.2 Materials

Recommended insulation materials include:

• Fiber insulation (e.g., fiberglass batting or other fiber insulation.)

• Other code and manufacturer approved materials, which may include gun injected low-pressure foam.


13.6.3 Installation

• After the window/door is shimmed, secured, and checked for proper operation (plumb, level and square), fill

gaps larger than 1/8" with insulation (see Figure 13-9).

Figure 13-9 Cavity Insulation

• Insulation is not required in small openings if they can be completely filled with sealant.

• Do not overly compress fiber insulation; press it loosely into small cavities with a putty knife or other tool.

• When using products with thermal barriers between the inboard and outboard portions of the metal frames

(i.e., thermally broken aluminum frames), be sure to insulate the space between the thermal barrier and the

inner-most portion of the frame. This will aid in protecting the interior side from the presence of exterior

ambient temperatures.

• When replacing wooden hung window frames, insulate cavities before enclosing them.

13.6.4 Expanding Foam Product Precautions

• Always follow foam and window manufacturers' instructions to avoid excessive expansion of the foam and

distortion of the window frame.

• Apply a single bead of foam, sufficient to provide an air seal, but yet allowing for movement of the header and

expansion/contraction of the frame.

• Install foam, allowing it to fully expand and become tack-free (approximately 20 minutes) before injecting

more material as needed (see Figure 13-10).

• After the foam is fully cured, trim away any excess to allow for proper installation of the trim.


Figure 13-10 Application of Foam

13.7 Priming and Painting

13.7.1 Purpose

Exposed steel can be damaged by exposure to the elements. All exposed steel on the exterior must be primed

and painted to avoid corrosion. This is not always the responsibility of the installer, but when necessary, the

installer can use the following tips.

13.7.2 Materials

For a durable finish and professional appearance, use only a high-grade coating that is compatible with the

surface to which it is applied.

• On the exterior, all primers and paints must be rated for exterior use. Begin with a primer coat and finish with

at least one coat of rust-resistant paint.

• On the interior, a primer is recommended. The finish coat should be rust-resistant.

Surfaces to be painted must be dry and free from dust, dirt, oil, grease, wax, chalk, mildew and other

contaminants.

• Remove dust and dirt with a brush, compressed air, or by washing, then drying.

• Remove oil, wax and grease with paint thinner or other recommended solvent.


• Remove mildew with a solution of bleach or commercial products intended for that purpose.

13.7.3 Application

Application practices and conditions, including temperature and relative humidity, are as important as the quality

of paint.

• Ideal temperature range of the product, surface, and air is 50°F to 90°F or as specified by the manufacturer.

• Relative humidity should be below 85 percent.

• Apply smooth, even coats.

• Allow adequate drying time between coats.

• Do not apply coating to weather-stripping, vinyl, plastic, cladding or other non-steel parts unless specifically

allowed by the manufacturer.

• Immediately remove any undesired coating from weather-stripping, etc.

13.7.4 Separation from Incompatible Materials

Appropriate paints may be used to provide separation from incompatible materials in lieu of plastic or elastomeric

tapes, vinyl liner, etc.

• An alkali-resistant coating may be used to separate aluminum surfaces from masonry materials and pressure-

treated wood. Paint may be applied to prevent direct contact of wood surfaces with incompatible materials.

• In all cases, aluminum must be protected from direct contact with steel, concrete or mortar with paint, non-

absorptive plastic, elastomeric tapes, gaskets or bituminous paint.

• Steel shall receive a sufficiently thick layer of protective coating (two coats).

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________


Table of Contents

14.1 Protect the Client's Property .......................................................................................................................1

14.2 Removal of Sash from Wooden Windows ..................................................................................................1

14.2.1 Removal of Sash from Single/Double Hung Windows (Inside Removal Method) ..............................4

14.2.2 Removal of Sash from Single/Double Hung Windows (Outside-Removal Method) ...........................6

14.3 Removal of Sash Only from Steel Windows ...............................................................................................6

14.4 Removal of Entire Frame: Aluminum or Steel Windows ...........................................................................7

14.4.1 Removal of Steel Window Frame by Unscrewing ...............................................................................7

14.4.2 Removal of Steel Window Frame by Cutting ......................................................................................8

14.5 Assessing the Opening .............................................................................................................................10

14.5.1 Determining Squareness of the Opening ..........................................................................................10

14.5.2 Check the Fit of the Replacement Window ......................................................................................10

14.5.3 Make Modifications for Out-of-Square .............................................................................................11

14.5.4 Verify the Structural Integrity of the Opening ....................................................................................11

14.5.5 Egress Requirements .......................................................................................................................11

14.6 Prepare the Opening .................................................................................................................................11

14.6.1 Protect Incompatible Materials..........................................................................................................11

14.6.2 Cleaning ............................................................................................................................................12






14.0 Preparing the Opening for Replacement

14.1 Protect the Client's Property

When removing and installing doors and windows, caution must be exercised to prevent workers and the elements

from damaging furnishings and interior finishes. Proper work-site preparation will not only protect furnishings and

finishes, but will also aid in the work process and facilitate cleanup when the job is finished. Items to be reviewed

and coordinated with the approving authority may include the following:

1. Make sure that the owners/occupants have removed and stored away all draperies and window treatments.

2. Check to see that furnishings have been moved far enough away from the work area to provide adequate

room to work safely and effectively. If possible, have the occupants do this before the workers arrive.

3. Suggest that any pictures/decorations attached to the walls around the work area be removed.

4. Using clean fabric drop cloths or new disposable plastic sheeting, cover all furnishings within the immediate

work area to prevent them from becoming soiled.

5. If a great deal of dust may be generated, completely cover all furnishings in the room.

6. Cover the floor around the window/door to be worked on with fabric drop cloth or plastic sheeting, and use

appropriate foot coverings. Tape the sheeting to the floor with appropriate tape to keep it from moving when

workers walk on it. Do not use tape to attach plastic sheeting to painted surfaces because it may pull off the

paint when it is removed.

7. Extend floor protection at least 6 feet from the wall.

14.2 Removal of Sash from

Wooden Windows

This section covers removal of the sash from existing wood window frames, and the preparation of the existing

window frame for the installation of the new window. The procedure followed will be determined based on the

method of installation and the accessories used.

For applications where the new window frame will be applied against the existing exterior stops, the interior set of

stops, sash, the parting bead and all existing hardware, are removed. Once these items are removed, exterior

capping and new interior trim will typically be used.

If the frame components are in good condition, the existing jambs, header and sill can remain in place. This will

allow the replacement unit to be inserted into the existing wooden frame and sealed against the exterior stop, as

described in Chapter 15 (see Figure 14-1). If the frame components are damaged or deteriorated, it may be

necessary to repair or replace them.

For window replacements using new panning and interior trim, the interior set of stops, sash, the parting bead, and

all related hardware must be removed prior to the new window installation. In this case, it may be desirable to

replace the interior stops/trim to provide a backup and support condition for the new interior trim (see Figure 14-2).

Job conditions vary, so these decisions need to be made prior to ordering the product.

Prior to removal of stops and sash, determine the most practical location from which to remove and replace the

window/door. There may be cases where a wall or other obstacle may force the installer to remove the sash from

the exterior and do the installation from the outside.

If it is easier to remove or replace the unit from inside the building, then the "inside-removal” procedure should be

followed (see Figure 14-3). The parting beads and interior stops are removed, but the blindstops and exterior


casing, if separate, remain intact. If it is more practical to remove or replace the window from the outside, use the

"outside-removal” method (see Figure 14-4). The blindstops and exterior casing, if separate, and the parting beads

are removed, but the interior stops and the stool remain intact.

Figure 14-1 Window Installation Using Exterior Stops and New Interior Trim


Figure 14-2 Window Installation Using New Panning and Trim

Figure 14-3 Inside Inside-Removal Method


Figure 14-4 Outside Outside-Removal Method

14.2.1 Removal of Sash from Single/Double Hung Windows (Inside Removal Method)

For the “Inside Inside-Removal Method,” use the following steps as a guide for removing the old sash and window

components:

1. Remove the interior trim casing/stops.

• If the wood is painted, carefully score the joints with a utility knife to break the bond before prying out the

stop.

• Pry the stop (trim) out by using a wide chisel. Be careful to avoid damaging, gouging or marking the stop

as it may be reused later (see Figure 14-5).


Figure 14-5 Pry Out Blindstops

2. Cut the sash cord or remove the sash balance, and pull the bottom sash out of the frame (see Figure 14-6).

Figure 14-6 Remove Old Sash

Caution: Some sash balance mechanisms may react when the weight of the sash is removed, so always

proceed with caution to avoid injury.

3. Pry out the parting stops, which typically will not be saved. Use pliers if necessary. If the stops are too heavily


painted and will not come out easily, chisel them flush with the surface of the head and side jambs.

4. After the parting stops have been removed, take out the upper sash.

5. Remove pulleys and sash weights if required. If mounting screws are corroded, it may be necessary to pry

out the pulleys.

6. If the existing window was installed with pre-formed aluminum tracks, it will usually contain a wooden parting

stop at the top, and aluminum tracks on the sides. For removal of this type of unit follow these steps:

• Remove the wooden parting stop and pull out the fasteners (staples or nails) securing the side tracks.

• Remove the small aluminum blocks located at the top and bottom of each track, then remove the two side

tracks and sash as one unit.

14.2.2 Removal of Sash from Single/Double Hung Windows (Outside Outside-Removal Method)

Although uncommon, with this method the interior stops and trim remain intact while the exterior casing is

removed. This procedure minimizes interior finish work and is often used when access to the interior is prohibited

because of an intervening wall. In order to use this method however, wraparound panning is typically used. Follow

these steps:

1. Remove the exterior casings and blindstops (casing may be blindstop).

• If painted, carefully score the joints with a utility knife to break the bond before prying out the stop.

• Pry with a wide chisel. Be careful to avoid damaging the stop and frame (see Figure 14-5).

2. Remove cords or sash balances if required, and pull the top sash out of the frame (see Figure 14-6).

3. Pry out the parting stops, which typically will not be saved. Use pliers if necessary. If the stops are too heavily

painted and will not come out easily, chisel them flush with the surface of the head and side jambs.

4. After the parting stops have been removed, take out the lower sash.

5. Remove pulleys and sash weights if required. If mounting screws are corroded, it may be necessary to pry

out the pulleys.

6. If the existing window was installed with preformed aluminum tracks, usually there is a wooden parting stop at

the top and aluminum tracks on the sides. To remove this type of unit follow the points outlined in Section

14.2.1.

14.3 Removal of Sash Only from Steel Windows

To remove steel window sash for replacement, do the following:

1. Remove the operable sash.

2. Remove the stationary sash.

3. Remove mullions, fasteners.

4. Remove any protruding metal, hinges and obstructions on the metal frames.

5. If the replacement unit is an emergency escape window, make sure the net clear opening of the new window

meets code requirements. This should have been done when the window was ordered; however, if frame

modifications are needed, cut away the frame as required in order to allow for the installation of a window

meeting emergency escape requirements (see Figure 14-7).


Figure 14-7 Cut Frame to Increase Size of Opening

6. Replace or repair damaged or deteriorated components, and remove mildew to prevent further degradation.

14.4 Removal of Entire Frame:

Aluminum or Steel Windows

In solid barrier wall applications, steel windows were either installed by attaching the window frame to the rough

frame with screws or by embedding the flange into the masonry. The installer should determine the appropriate

method of removal prior to proceeding.

14.4.1 Removal of Steel Window Frame by Unscrewing

To remove a steel window frame intact:

1. With operable sash open, remove accessible screws.

2. For fixed sash, locate screws and chip away any putty covering them (see Figure 14-8).


Figure 14-8 Remove Glazing Compound and Screws

Caution: Don’t forget that asbestos and lead may be found in and around old putty glazed windows. Be sure to

check for these materials and take all precautions necessary to eliminate health risks for you and the building

occupants.

3. Remove screws or drill them out.

4. After all screws are removed, pull out the entire window unit if possible.

14.4.2 Removal of Steel Window Frame by Cutting

When the frames of old steel windows are obstructed, or have embedded flanges or anchorages, the unit can be

removed as described below:

1. Remove operable window assemblies. Disassemble the hinges or cut through them with a reciprocating saw

or metal cutting tool.

2. Remove the glass from the fixed nonoperable windows.

3. Cut out the mullions and cut through the metal frame at the sill. Leave the sides and top of the frame

temporarily intact (see Figures 14-9 and 14-10).

4. Pull up on the severed halves of the frame bottom, thereby pulling the jambs away from the opening and

pulling the head down (see Figure 14-11). Because the flanges are usually narrow, it should be possible to

force the partially collapsed frame out of the opening (see Figure 14-12).

5. If the replacement unit is an egress window, make sure that the opening is properly sized.


Figure 14-9 Cut Out Center Bar – 1

Figure 14-10 Cut Through Bottom Rail – 2


Figure 14-11 Start Pulling Out Frame – 3 and 4

Figure 14-12 Pry Out Top of Frame – 5

14.5 Assessing the Opening

Before installing a new window, the rough opening must be assessed (see Chapter 8, Section 8.3, "Preinstallation

Inspection").

14.5.1 Determining Squareness of the Opening

Window openings are seldom perfectly square (see Chapter 11, "Measuring and Ordering.").

One way to determine the squareness of the opening is to measure the diagonal distances of the opening. (See

Chapter 11 for guidelines on measuring the opening.)

1. Measure from a bottom corner to the opposite top corner.

2. Measure the opposite diagonal the same way.

3. Compare the two measurements. If the diagonals are equal, the opening is square. If the measurements

differ by more than 1/4", modifications may be necessary (see Chapter 11, Section 11.2.2 for detailed

information).

14.5.2 Check the Fit of the Replacement Window


Verify that the new unit will fit properly into the existing opening by setting it in the opening and checking the

clearance around the window. If panning and trim are to be applied around the window prior to replacement, install

them prior to checking the fit (see Chapter 15 for instructions).

14.5.3 Make Modifications for

Out-of-Square

If the opening is out-of-square, unlevel or untrue, then the window may not fit properly. Make necessary

modifications to install the replacement unit properly.

• Because bottom supports must be flat, level the sill with blocking and bring it as close to level as possible.

• The sides of the opening should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the sill. Each should also be in

the same plane (true).

• If modifications or corrections severely affect the size of the opening, it may be necessary to order a smaller

window than originally planned. If this is the case, be sure to check the egress requirements.

14.5.4 Verify the Structural Integrity of the Opening

Check the existing window frame and/or rough frame to see if it is structurally adequate to allow the new window to

be properly anchored.

Check for the presence of decayed wood and rust on steel by poking or prodding with a punch or similar tool. If the

punch goes into the wood with little or no resistance, the wood is decayed.

Check masonry conditions to ensure that brick/block conditions are not cracked or deteriorated to the point that

they are no longer suitable for anchorage.

When deteriorated or damaged components are present, notify the appropriate party and repair as directed:

• Replace decayed wood or rusted steel with new materials as needed.

• Reinforce cracked and split wood and masonry conditions when possible.

• Patch and seal any cracks or holes.

Anchor the existing window or door frame to the wall system to adequately transfer loads. Use the anchor clips or

trim clips provided for this purpose and make sure they are properly secured to the existing conditions.

14.5.5 Egress Requirements

Before replacing a window, determine whether the window must meet building code requirements for egress and

safety glass (see Chapter 9).

14.6 Prepare the Opening

When preparing the opening for the replacement window, determine what accessories are needed. Complete the

application of accessories before installation of the window. Refer to Chapter 6 for more information about

accessories.

14.6.1 Protect Incompatible Materials

Direct contact of incompatible materials must be avoided. Over time, materials can degrade due to contact with

dissimilar materials. Examples of this include instances where unprotected aluminum comes into direct contact

with unprotected carbon steel, poured concrete or mortar. Galvanic corrosion will occur due to an electrochemical

reaction that takes place between the two materials (metals) while in the presence of moisture. In metal-to-metal

applications, both the aluminum and steel are to be protected.

Protect incompatible materials by following these recommendations:


Protect Aluminum with:

• Paint (Back painting as required)

• Caulks/sealants

• Non-absorptive plastic material

• Elastomeric tapes or gaskets

Protect Steel with:

• Cold galvanized coating (two coats)

• Rust-proof coatings (do not use a coating that contains lead)

• Corrosion resistant coatings and/or inhibitors

14.6.2 Cleaning

The rough opening must be clean, dry, dust free and frost free before installing the window or door, and/or

applying sealant.

Mold/Mildew Precautions

If mold or mildew is detected in, or around the window stop work on the installation and notify the responsible

party. Proper Material Disposal

Once materials are removed from the existing opening, it is the responsibility of the installer to dispose of them

properly and safely.

14.6.3 Proper Material Disposal

If hazardous waste will be generated, it must be disposed of properly. Typically, hazardous waste must be

transported in sealed, nonreturnable containers from which materials cannot escape. Containers used to transport

hazardous waste include:

• 6 mil plastic bags

• Cartons

• Drums

• Cans

Note: Before transporting hazardous waste, check the local Department of Transportation's hazardous waste

hauling requirements or with a waste management agency.

Most states limit hazardous waste disposal by individuals to 50 pounds of material, and require that the waste be

hauled to an approved treatment, storage or disposal facility.

Notes:______________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________________________________________

_________________________________________________________________________________


Table of Contents

15 Replacement Window Installation..........................................................................................................................2

15. 1 Installing Windows With Panning and Trim ............................................................................................2

15.1.1 Preset Panning Installation .............................................................................................................2

15.1.2 Wrap-Around Panning Installation ..................................................................................................7

15.1.3 Application of Trim and Clips ........................................................................................................10

15.1.4 Final Checking and Adjusting of Operable Sash ..........................................................................11

15.1.5 Seal and Finish the Interior ...........................................................................................................12

15.2 Extended Flange Replacement Installation ..........................................................................................12

15.2.1 Prior to Installing Extended Flange Replacement Windows .........................................................12

15.2.2 Install Window and Seal the Exterior ............................................................................................12

15.2.3 Finishing and Sealing the Interior .................................................................................................14

15.3 Installing Replacement Windows In Wood Hung Windows with Trim Only ..........................................15

15.3.1 Window Installation .......................................................................................................................15

15.3.2 Completion of the Installation ........................................................................................................16

15.1.3 Application of Trim and Clips ................................................................................................................17

15.3.3 Seal and Finish the Exterior ..........................................................................................................17

15.4 Installing Replacement Windows In Flat Conditions. ............................................................................17






15 Replacement Window Installation

There are too many possible replacement window scenarios to cover in one chapter; however, basic instructions

for installing the more common types are presented here.

Primary emphasis is placed on replacement of wooden double hung windows and steel casement windows using

preset or wraparound panning and trim. These techniques will serve as a foundation for approaching other types

of window and wall combinations.

Also covered are applications where a new window is installed into an existing opening (without the use of

panning) and sealed against the existing exterior blind stops, and applications where extended flange replacement

windows are used.

Remember, this manual provides general guidelines. Read and follow manufacturer's instructions, and always

install in conformance with federal, state, and local codes. Before replacing windows in bedrooms and near doors,

check the prevailing requirements pertaining to emergency escape windows and safety glass (see Chapter 9,

Sections 9.4 and 9.5).

The installer must decide which existing window components will be left intact, which will be removed and

reinstalled, and which will be removed and discarded. Window removal is discussed in Chapter 14.

Remove the old window sash in accordance with local code requirements, the manufacturer's recommendations,

and the guidelines presented in Chapter 14.

15. 1 Installing Windows With Panning and Trim

Generally, commercial window installations require accessories such as panning and trim. The assembly of these

components should be completed prior to installing the window.

Some of the more common accessories are defined in the following sections. The most common types are:

• Preset panning

• Wrap-around panning/Snap-on flanges

• Trim and clips

15.1.1 Preset Panning Installation

Preset panning is typically assembled, trimmed and installed before the window is installed. Complete the

assembly of these components prior to installing the window.

Since preset panning is first assembled together, then applied to the condition, the installer should gather all of the

appropriate materials before beginning.


• Head, jamb and sill panning pieces

• Pressure plates and mullion covers

• Assembly fasteners

• Anchor clips

• Corner clips

• Installation fasteners

• Gaskets

• Sealant

• Assembly tools

Whenever possible, work from a work bench/table. Lay all of the pieces on top of the table and prep them for

assembly.

1. First apply gaskets into the grooves on the panning.

Make sure to apply excess gasket material into the groove so that once normal shrinkage takes place, the gaskets

won't be too short. (Example: Cut the gasket 1/4” longer per foot than the extrusion length. Consult the gasket

supplier and/or window manufacturer for the recommended amount of excess.)

2. Attach the head, jamb and sill pieces together as directed by the manufacturer (see Figure 15-1).

Figure 15-1 Assembly of Preset Panning


3. After assembly of the main pieces, apply any anchor brackets or assembly clips in place that will be used to

facilitate installation later. Steel spring clips are often attached to the panning and will help hold the window

frame in position on a temporary basis until the trim and clips can be applied. The temporary clips are not

intended to be left in place overnight.

4. Once the preset panning is assembled, place the panning assembly into the opening to check the fit.

Trimming will typically be required, so dry fitting will help establish the amount of trimming necessary.

• Check the fit and mark the panning for trimming.

• Remove the panning and trim the flanges as required to create a good fit. Use caution when trimming,

being careful not to distort the frame or bend the corners.

• Cut/trim panning to allow for installation clearance and allow for the application of the specified sealant

joint.

5. After all the pieces are trimmed, back seal the assembly by applying sealant over the mechanical joints and

apply the corner reinforcing clips as needed.

• Make sure to clean all surfaces prior to sealing. Remove any residual oil, dust and moisture prior to

sealing.

• Always try to back seal neatly so that the sealant won't be seen later.

• If the sealant will be visible, use a clear sealant or a sealant color that closely matches the finish of the

panning.

• Only use sealant that is recommended for this type of application.

• Apply prescribed corner clips last, but be careful not to scrape off all of the sealant at the joints.

6. Reinstall the panning into the opening. Shim panning plumb, level and square, and attach according to the

manufacturer’s installation instructions or project shop drawings (see Figure 15-2).

• Make sure that the attachment fasteners penetrate a suitable condition providing the structural

support necessary to hold the assembly in position.

• Panning must be in line (parallel) from opening to opening and unit to unit.


Figure 15-2 Assembly of Panning Into the Opening

7. In openings where mullions must remain, apply the exterior pressure plate over the two opposing panning

pieces (see Figure 15-3).

Figure 15-3 Application of Pressure Plate and Cover over Existing Mullions and Panning


• Measure the finished height from the bottom of the panning to the top of the panning where it fits against

the building condition. Cut the pressure plate to the height dimension (less 1/4”) to allow for clearance.

Note: More clearance may be desirable if planning to use a backer rod under the panning where the panning has a

return leg for this purpose.

• Install gaskets into the grooves in the pressure plate when applicable.

• Apply the pressure plate into position using the screws recommended by the manufacturer. Seal between

the pressure plate and the panning as directed by the manufacturer.

8. Preset panning can be advantageous because the installer can apply the perimeter seal prior to installing the

new window.

• Apply backer rod or bond breaker tape around the perimeter, between the panning flange (and pressure

plate) and the building condition.

• Apply and tool the sealant into the joints. Be sure to push the sealant firmly in place to facilitate adhesion.

9. If pressure plates were previously applied, the snap on cover can be installed just prior to installation of the

window frame.

• Cut the cover to size as required and snap it in place, centering it on the pressure plate.

• Apply sealant over the joint between the cover and the panning if directed by the manufacturer.

10. Once the panning and mullion covers are secured and sealed in place, the window can be set into position.

This may require additional sealant at the panning/window interface.

• Apply sealant around the perimeter of the panning at the head, jamb and sill as directed by the

manufacturer.

• Sealant is usually placed in line with where the window frame will make contact with the panning and/or

gasket.

• Set the window into position at the sill, centering the window into the opening. Next, rotate the top towards

the exterior.

• Some panning designs include steel spring clips that will allow the window to be snapped into position.

• Press the window into position and secure it with temporary anchors (clips) as required.

11. Use full blocking and/or extra shims under the window frame at the sill condition in order to ensure that the

frame will not be racked or rotated out of position.

12. After the frame is secured in place, replace the corresponding sash (if they were removed) back in the frame.

• In hung windows, make sure sash stops are in the jambs. Always check the sash for proper operation

before moving on to the next opening.


15.1.2 Wrap-Around Panning Installation

The assembly method for wrap around panning is similar to the preset panning, except these materials are

wrapped around the window frame and assembled together prior to installation of the entire unit.

First check the shop drawings to determine the proper mark number and location of the panning for each opening

and window.

Gather all of the appropriate materials prior to assembly.

• Window (typically with sash removed)

• Pressure plates and mullion covers

• Head, jamb and sill panning pieces

• Assembly fasteners

• Installation fasteners

• Gaskets

• Sealant

• Assembly tools

Whenever possible, work from a work bench/table. Lay all of the pieces on top of the table and prep them for

assembly.

1. First consider removing the operable sash from the frame. This may make it a bit easier to assemble and

install the unit due to the reduced weight.

• Be sure to mark the sash and the frame with a corresponding number so they can be put back together in

the same opening later.

2. Apply the gasket into the grooves on the panning. In cases where gaskets are not required, sealant will

typically be required.

• Make sure to apply excess gasket material into the groove so that once normal shrinkage takes place, the

gaskets won't be too short. (Example: Cut the gasket 1/4” longer per foot than the extrusion length.

Consult the gasket supplier and/or window manufacturer for the recommended amount of excess.)

3. Place the head panning over the head of the window first, then apply the jamb pieces and finish with the sill

(see Figure 15-4).

• When directed by the manufacturer, apply sealant in the assembly grooves prior to installation.


Figure 15-4 Assembly of Wrap-around Panning

4. Attach the panning together at the corners as directed by the manufacturer.

5. Attach the panning to the window frame around the entire perimeter as directed by the manufacturer. For all

panning assembly and attachment, use only the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer.

6. After assembly of the main pieces, apply any anchor brackets or assembly clips in place that will be used to

facilitate installation later.

7. Once the wrap-around panning is assembled over the window and ready for installation, place the window

assembly into the opening to check the fit. Trimming will typically be required, so dry fitting will help establish

the amount of trimming necessary.

• Check the fit and mark the panning for trimming.

• Remove the assembly from the opening and trim the panning flanges as required to create a good fit.

Cut/trim panning to allow for installation clearance and allow for the application of the specified sealant

joint.

• Use caution when trimming, being careful not to distort the frame or bend the corners.

8. After the assembly is trimmed, back seal the assembly by applying sealant over the mechanical joints. Make

sure to clean all surfaces prior to sealing.

• Always try to back seal so that the sealant won't be seen later.


• If the sealant will be visible, use a clear sealant or a sealant color that closely matches the finish of

the panning and clean off excess.

• Only use sealant that is recommended for this type of application.

• Apply corner clips last, but make sure not to scrape off all of the sealant at the joints.

• Some manufacturers will also require that the perimeter of the window be sealed where it slips inside

the panning, if this step wasn't done prior to slipping the panning over the window frame.

9. Reinstall the assembly into the opening.

• It is often desirable to wrap the assembly with batt insulation at the head and jambs prior to final

installation.

• Set the assembly into position and shim plumb, level and square. Attach as directed by the project shop

drawings or manufacturer’s instructions (see Figure 15-5).

Figure 15-5 Assembly of Window into the Opening

• Use full blocking and/or multiple shims at the sill condition to restrict rotation or racking of the frame.

• Make sure that all frames are in line (parallel) with each other (in the same plane) from opening to

opening, and unit to unit.

• Make sure that the attachment fasteners penetrate a suitable condition that will provide the structural

support to hold the assembly in position.

10. In openings where existing mullions are to remain, the installer can now apply the exterior pressure plate over

the two opposing panning pieces (see Figure 15-3).

• Measure the finished height from the bottom of the panning to the top of the panning where it fits against

the building condition. Cut the pressure plate to the height dimension (less 1/4”) to allow for clearance.

• Install gaskets into the grooves in the pressure plate when applicable.


• Apply the pressure plate into position using the screws recommended by the manufacturer. Seal between

the pressure plate and the panning as directed by the manufacturer.

Note: More clearance may be desirable if planning to use a backer rod under the panning where the panning has a

return leg for this purpose.

11. If pressure plates were previously applied, the snap-on cover can be installed just prior to installation of the

perimeter seal.

• Cut the cover to size as required and snap it in place, centering it on the pressure plate.

• Apply sealant over the joint between the cover and the panning if directed by the manufacturer.

12. After installation of the panning/window assembly and the application of any pressure plates and mullion

covers, the perimeter joint can be sealed.

• Often (if not already removed) the removal of the sash is necessary to allow for access to the perimeter

joint. Be sure to mark the sash and frame so you can reinstall the sash back into the original window

frame.

• Apply backer rod or bond breaker tape around the perimeter, between the panning flange and the building

condition.

• Apply and tool the sealant into the joint. Be sure to push the sealant firmly in place to facilitate adhesion.

13. After the frame is secured in place, replace the corresponding sash back in the frame.

• In hung windows, make sure sash stops are in the jambs. Always check the sash for proper operation

before moving on to the next opening

15.1.3 Application of Trim and Clips

After the window is temporarily secured in place (and if not previously done) insulation can be applied at the head

and jambs. The type and amount of insulation will be dependent on the space available.

• Loosely apply 1” x 3” batt insulation at the head and jamb cavities with a putty knife or similar tool.

• For smaller joints, low or zero-pressure foam can be applied.

After the application of the required insulation, the remaining anchor clips and trim can be applied (see Figure 15-

6).

Some projects will involve continuous trim clips, while others will involve clips that are 3" to 4" in length. Make sure

to follow the manufacturer's installation instructions pertaining to the number, length and location of the trim clips.

PVC frames may have an integral accessory groove that allows for a specially designed trim to snap into place.

Trim clips typically are the only structural attachment between the window and the existing opening; therefore, it is

critical that they be installed properly.


1. Place trim clips tight against both the existing condition and the interior face of the new window.

2. Check the depth of the trim prior to installation to ensure that the proper coverage will be maintained over the

existing condition.

3. When attaching the trim clips to the existing condition, make sure to only use fasteners that are recommended

for the specific job application.

4. When attaching the trim clips to the new window, only use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer.

Note: Use caution when attaching the clips to the frame – be sure not to interrupt the travel of the sash by

penetrating the track.

5. Some projects will involve deeper trim at the jambs as compared to the head and sill. Others will have

contoured trim at the head and sill and straight trim at the jambs. Check the requirements and apply the

deeper trim first, then butt the shallow or contoured trim to it.

Figure 15-6 Application of Trim and Clips

15.1.4 Final Checking and Adjusting of Operable Sash

1. Make a final check of the installation. Check the sash to ensure they are set square and aligned within the

frame and that the latches are properly aligned and functioning.

Hung Windows

• Lift the bottom sash until it just clears the sill and check the gap. It will be even across the bottom of the sash if

the unit is square. If it is not, adjust the window frame in the opening until it is.

• Shim and attach the frame at the meeting rail, or use jamb adjustment clips to secure frames at the center.

• When installing double hung side load sash, be sure to fully engage the sash clips and guides on top of the

sash to ensure proper operation and sash alignment.

• When re-installing sash in tilt windows, be sure that the tilt triggers are fully engaged into the jambs, and that

the pivot bars are completely engaged into the balance shoes.


• Never allow installation screws to deter the proper operation of the product. Check each sash for proper

operation.

• Double check that the bottom and top sash stops have not fallen off during transportation, or were removed

from the jambs. If they have been removed for any reason, make sure that they are replaced.

Sliders

• Open each operable sash until it just clears the jamb and check the gap. It should be even along the vertical

edge of the sash if the unit is square.

• If the sash is not square, remove the sash to reduce the weight and adjust the rollers prior to placing the sash

back into the window frame. Continue to check and adjust until the sash is square in the frame.

• Make sure operable sliders are supported at the locking points so that if the sash is slammed shut, the frame

will resist damage.

Casements

• If the frame installation is square, the gap will be equal all the way around the sash.

• Adjust the hinge and install set screws to restrict movement later. Always fasten through the hinge into the

building condition on butt hinge applications. This is especially critical in panning applications where

anchorage may be limited.

2. When the window is plumb, level and square, tighten all screws without distorting the frame. The frame must

be secure; however, it must not be twisted or warped by under- or over-shimming, or by improperly positioning

and over tightening fasteners.

15.1.5 Seal and Finish the Interior

To finish the interior on panning and trim installations, apply sealant to the joint between trim and the building

conditions (and any other areas) as required per job.

15.2 Extended Flange Replacement Installation

An extended flange replacement window can be installed without removing the existing window frame. The

primary seal in an extended flange installation is located between the exterior side of the extended flange and the

existing building condition. PVC frames may have an integral flange or accessory groove that allows for a specially

designed flange to snap into place.

15.2.1 Prior to Installing Extended Flange Replacement Windows

Removal practices vary with the type of window being replaced. For details on removing the existing sash, see

Chapter 14, Section 14.3.

15.2.2 Install Window and Seal the Exterior


After removal of existing sash and mullion, check the opening size and fit, and install the new window following

these steps:

1. Prior to installation, dry fit the extended flange window into the opening. Check the flange alignment with the

rough opening and mark any necessary trimming in order to allow a proper fit during installation.

2. After trimming the flange, recheck the fit and make sure to allow for a good fit between the edge of the flange

and the existing building condition (see Figure 15-7).

• Cut/trim the flange to allow for installation clearance and allow for the application of the specified sealant

joint.

• Don’t force the window in place. If necessary, trim again and re-insert into the opening.

Figure 15-7 Sill Detail – Extended Flange Window

3. Install shims and bottom support as needed or directed by the manufacturer, to ensure that the frame will be

well supported along its base.

4. Follow the manufacturer's instructions when securing the window into position. In some cases predrilled holes

are present in the frame. Use them as directed, or drill them as instructed.

• When fastening through the frame at the sill, seal the fastener hole, set the fastener, and then seal over

the head.

Note: Fasteners are sometimes installed through the head, jamb and sill frame, but never through the extended

flange.

5. In most many cases, trim clips and trim are used to secure the window into position. When trim is provided,

use the instructions outlined in Section 15.1.3 to secure the window.


6. After the replacement window is properly positioned and secured, install the primary seal around the perimeter

of the window between the extended flange and the building condition (see Figure 15-8). Also refer to Section

15.1.4 for final checking and adjustment.

Figure 15-8 Apply Primary Seal

15.2.3 Finishing and Sealing the Interior

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding finishing and sealing. The following are general guidelines.

Option #1: Existing Frame Cut Back

If the existing frame was cut back, make the gap between the replacement frame and the opening as small as

possible.

• With shims and bottom support in place, apply sealant to fill the joint between the replacement frame and the

opening.

• Install a backer rod and a continuous bead of sealant to fill any voids. Tool the sealant to ensure good

adhesion.

• Install low or zero-expansion pressure foam if allowed by manufacturer. Use precautions outlined in Chapter

13.

Option #2: Existing Frame Left in Place without Modification

If the existing frame is left in place and not trimmed back, fill the joint between the replacement frame and the

opening. To finish and seal the frame:

• Install cavity insulation, paying particular attention to the manufacturer's instructions when using injected foam

(use minimally expanding type only).

• Install finishing trim that spans the joint and mates neatly with the replacement frame (see Figure 15-9).

• When the interior edge of the replacement frame is recessed in the opening, jamb extensions may be

required.

• If required, apply a small bead of sealant along both edges of the trim and tool for a finished appearance.


Figure 15-9 Trim Installation - Extended Flange Window

15.3 Installing Replacement Windows In Wood Hung Windows with Trim Only

There are applications where the existing wood windows will remain in place and a new window frame will be

installed without the use of panning on the exterior. Although this is not as frequent an occurrence as projects

involving panning and trim, this application does occur. This application is often called an “inside-out installation

technique.”

When this occurs, use the procedures for removing the existing sash from the interior as outlined in Section

14.2.1. Once the removal procedures are completed, the installer can use the following practice for installation of

the new window.

15.3.1 Window Installation

1. Assess and prepare the opening, making sure it is ready for installation of the new window.

2. Generally, the replacement window will either include an extended flange on the sill or an applied sill

expander. This piece is designed to cover the gap between the existing window sill and the new window frame

(see Figure 15-10). Check the requirements of the particular job and apply as needed.


Figure 15-10 Sill Expander at Sill Condition

3. Dry-fit the window into the opening to ensure it will fit properly. This may require trimming of the sill expander.

4. Before installing the window on a permanent basis, apply a nominal 3/8” diameter bead of sealant to the

interior face of the exterior stops at the jambs and head, and to the exterior face of the stool (see Figure 15-

11).

Figure 15-11 Sealant Application

5. Place the window in the opening and push it against the exterior stops. Apply temporary blocking, shims

and/or clips as required to keep the window in place.

15.3.2 Completion of the Installation


After the window is temporarily secured in place, use techniques outlined in previous sections of this chapter for

completion of the installation. The sections that apply are as follows:

• 15.1.3 Application of Trim and Clips

• 15.1.4 Final Checking & Adjusting of Operable Sash

• 15.1.5 Seal and Finish the Interior

15.3.3 Seal and Finish the Exterior

Once the window is secured in place, the exterior finish work can be completed. The sash will typically either need

to be removed or fully opened to complete this process.

1. If an extended flange or sill expander is present at the bottom of the window, apply an appropriate backer rod

or bond breaker and a bead of sealant along the bottom edge where it butts to the existing window sill.

2. Determine whether the sealant applied to exterior stops is adequate. Remove excess where it squeezes out

and/or fill any voids. Tool the bead so that it is fillet shaped and ensures a weather-tight seal.

15.4 Installing Replacement Windows In Flat Conditions.

In barrier wall applications where the existing windows have been removed and relatively flat conditions are

remaining, the application may be more like a new construction installation (see Figure 15-12).

Figure 15-12 Replacement Opening w/ Flush Condition


Examples of replacement window application include cases where:

• Existing steel windows are completely removed, resulting in a flush condition.

• Existing windows are completely removed (regardless of the material) to allow for the largest replacement

window possible.

• Applications where a new wood buck is to be installed such as with unequal leg frames.

In these cases, the head, jamb and sill conditions remaining are relatively flat and do not require panning. These

types of installations typically will incorporate equal leg frame windows.

When this situation occurs, follow the installation practices outlined in the new construction installation methods

outlined in Chapter 16.

Notes:______________________________________________________________________________________

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Table of Contents

16.1 Equal Leg Frame Window Installations ......................................................................................................1

16.1.1 Equal Leg Frame Window Installation without Receptor Systems .....................................................1

16.1.2 Checking the Opening ........................................................................................................................1

16.1.3 Preparation of the Window Prior to Installation ..................................................................................3

16.1.4 Installation of the Window ...................................................................................................................4

16.1.5 Application of the Perimeter Seal .......................................................................................................6

16.2 Equal Leg Frame Window Installations With A Receptor System ..............................................................7

16.2.1 Preparation of the Receptor System Prior to Window Installation ......................................................7

16.2.2 Installation of the Receptor System Prior to Window Installation .................................................... 11

16.2.3 Application of the Perimeter Seal When Using Receptor Systems ................................................. 17

16.2.4 Preparation of the Window for Installation with a Receptor System................................................ 18

16.2.5 Installation of the Window in Openings with a Receptor System .................................................... 19

16.3 Horizontal Ribbon Window Installations With A Receptor System .......................................................... 23

16.3.1 Preparation of the Receptor System for Horizontal Ribbon Window Applications .......................... 23

16.3.2 Installation of the Receptor System in Horizontal Ribbon Window Applications ............................. 25

16.3.3 Installation of Windows and Mullions in Horizontal Ribbon Window Applications........................... 26

16.3.3.1 Male/Female Frames ................................................................................................................... 27

16.3.3.2 Independent Structural Mullions and Corner Mullions ................................................................. 29

Mullions Installed In Sequence ....................................................................................................................... 30

Mullions Installed Before the Window ............................................................................................................. 31






Corner Mullion Installation .............................................................................................................................. 32

Finish Mullion and Window Installation ........................................................................................................... 33

16.4 Vertical Stack Window Installations With A Receptor System ............................................................... 36

16.4.1 Preparation of the Receptor System for Vertical Stack Window Applications ................................. 36

16.4.2 Installation of the Receptor System in Vertical Stack Window Applications ................................... 36

16.4.3 Installation of Windows in Vertical Stack Window Applications ....................................................... 37

16.4.3.1 Horizontal Stack Mullions ............................................................................................................ 38

16.4.3.2 Independent Horizontally Floating Structural Mullions ................................................................ 40

16.5 Transoms / Transition Mullions and Knee Wall Applications ................................................................... 42

16.6 Checking Installation for Plumb, Level and square ................................................................................. 47

16.7 Final Checking and Adjustment ............................................................................................................... 48

16.8 Finishing the Exterior ............................................................................................................................... 49

16.8.1 Allowance for Moisture Escape ....................................................................................................... 50

16.9 Finishing the Interior ................................................................................................................................ 50

16.9.1 Cavity Insulation .............................................................................................................................. 50

16.9.2 Apply Backer Rod (Interior) ............................................................................................................. 50

16.9.3 Apply Sealant (Interior) .................................................................................................................... 50

16.9.4 Trim or Drywall Returns ................................................................................................................... 50


16.0 New construction Window Installation

This chapter contains basic guidelines for installing windows in new construction.

16.1 Equal Leg Frame Window Installations

Generally, equal leg frame windows (see Figure 16-1) are the most common type of window frame used in

commercial new construction. This term simply refers to the frame style of the frame being used.

Windows used in these applications typically do not include panning and trim, and don't include extended flanges

to facilitate installation over existing window frames and/or conditions, as they would be non-existent.

The installation process for these window types will vary depending on the type of opening, and whether receptor

systems will be used to help facilitate installation.

Figure 16-1 Equal Leg Frame Window

16.1.1 Equal Leg Frame Window Installation without Receptor Systems

Equal leg frame windows can be used in buildings that involve a surface barrier system or a membrane drainage

system (see Chapter 8, Section 8.1.3). Regardless, the installation of this product type depends on a sealant joint

between the window (or receptor) and the exterior building surface for shedding water away from the building.

When installing equal leg frame windows in applications that require receptors and subsills, follow the installation

practices outlined in Section 16.2. For equal leg frame installations without the use of receptors and subsills, use

the installation procedures in this section.

16.1.2 Checking the Opening

Prior to installation, check each opening to verify conformance to the architectural drawings, specifications and

the design intent. The installer shall:

1. Verify the opening size to ensure a proper fit and joint geometry. Check each opening to determine if it is

plumb, level and square.


2. Check the construction materials, verifying that they are structurally suitable for attachment of the window

frame.

3. Determine whether flashing materials are present at the head condition.

• If flashing is present, make sure that head attachment will not penetrate the flashing (see Figure 16-2).

• If flashing is present, determine where the window will be positioned to ensure that the perimeter seal is

inboard of the flashing so water drainage will occur outboard of the perimeter joint.

Figure 16-2 Checking Flashing at Head Condition

4. Make sure that the attachment fasteners specified for the condition will work as intended and that the

conditions are suitable for attachment.

Note: As an example, if the fasteners prescribed are self-drilling masonry anchors and the condition is not

masonry but steel stud, the fastener type will need to be changed for the application.

5. Determine where the window will set in the opening and verify that the conditions allow for a suitable sealant

joint (see Figure 16-3).

• Some conditions, such as brick veneer walls will incorporate an air space or cavity, which will dictate

where the frame will be placed to ensure proper joint back up.

• Depending on the location of the frame relative to the interior conditions, the location of the frame may

require interior trim and/or jamb extensions to finish off the interior.


Figure 16-3 Checking Sealant Condition

16.1.3 Preparation of the Window

Prior to Installation

Once the opening has been inspected and is ready for window installation, the window can be prepared. This

includes unpacking the window and making sure it is ready for installation.

Whenever possible, dry fit the window into the opening to verify the fit. Make sure to allow for a sealant joint

around the entire perimeter. This will require that the installer determine the amount of shimming necessary to

allow for a consistent perimeter joint of adequate width.

If mounting clips or brackets are to be used for window attachment, it may be appropriate to install them prior to

installation of the window (see Figure 16-4).

• Check the project shop drawings for the clip type and location, as they will vary from job to job.

• Use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer to attach the anchor clips to the frame.

• Apply any other accessories, like perimeter caulk returns or closure channels, around the perimeter of the

window as required for your specific job.

•


Figure 16-4 Attachment of Anchor Clips to Frame

16.1.4 Installation of the Window

Install the window using the following steps:

1. After checking the fit and making sure the conditions are level, the installer can pre-apply the shims to the sill

condition prior to installation of the window frame.

2. Manufacturers often require full support blocking under the window sill to help carry the glass weight. For

applications where the window frame requires full support, use blocking as directed by the manufacturer (see

Figure 16-5).

3. Set the window in place on top of the shims at the sill (see Figure 16-6). Shims are to be located under any

anchor clips or at fastener locations if they occur within the window frame.


Figure 16-5 Example of Full Sill Support Blocking

Figure 16-6 Installation of Window Assembly

4. Center the window within the opening, allowing for a consistent joint width around the entire perimeter.

5. Place a level on the window sill to verify that the sill is level. Adjust the shims as needed to ensure a level

condition.


6. Once the window is positioned in the opening, attach the frame to temporarily secure it in place. Apply shims

as needed at the head directly in line with the anchor clips. Attach the fasteners just tight enough to secure

the window in position, yet allow for adjustment in the next step.

7. Check the head, sill and jambs with a level again to make sure the window is setting plumb, level and square

within the opening. Measure across the diagonals to determine if the window is square.

8. Add shims and fasteners as required at the remaining anchor points. Be sure to attach the window frame

with clips/fasteners according to the product performance tests conducted by the manufacturer.

9. For casement windows, add blocking and anchors at the hinge locations as directed by the manufacturer.

For sliding windows, add support blocking behind the jamb condition at the locking point. This support

blocking may also be needed at the head condition directly above the meeting rail of a horizontal slider. Be

sure to fully block behind the hinges/locking points, and run fasteners through the hinge into a structural

jamb condition (see Figure 16-7, and refer to Section 16.8).

10. Tighten up each fastener around the perimeter until a plumb, level and square installation is achieved. Be

careful not to over tighten the fasteners in such a way that the frame is distorted.

11. Check the installed product to ensure that it operates properly and that the reveal is equal between the sash

and frame.

Figure 16-7 Blocking Behind Butt Hinge Anchor Points

16.1.5 Application of the Perimeter Seal

Once the window is securely attached in position, the installation is ready for the application of perimeter sealant.

1. If necessary, remove the sash or open the sash to gain access to the exterior.

• When removing sash, make sure to mark the sash so it will be placed back in the original window frame.

• In some instances, the perimeter joint is applied from the exterior side using scaffolding or work platforms.

2. Make sure the conditions are clean, dry and suitable for sealant application. Remove any loose debris and

wipe any dirt or dust off the condition and the window frame.

3. Apply primer to the perimeter condition and to the window framing if recommended by the sealant

manufacturer.

• Use only the primer recommended for the application.

• Do not apply primer to the backer rod, if present.


• Apply the proper amount of primer as prescribed by the sealant manufacturer. Do not apply an excessive

amount of primer.

4. Apply an appropriate size backer rod around the entire perimeter. Use a blunt probe or roller to install the

backer rod (see Figure 16-8).

• Do not puncture the rod as this may release gases that can affect the perimeter seal.

• Make sure to insert the rod at the correct depth so that the joint can be properly filled with sealant.

Figure 16-8 Application of Backer Rod and Sealant

5. Once the joint is ready, apply the perimeter sealant. Start at one corner and push the sealant into the joint.

• Pushing, as opposed to pulling, the sealant ensures that the joint is filled with sealant and that the amount

of air left behind the joint is minimal.

• Fill the joint completely around the entire perimeter, making sure to apply a continuous perimeter seal.

6. Once the joint is sealed, tool the sealant joint to remove any remaining air pockets and create a smooth joint

of the proper depth and geometry.

7. Clean any excess sealant off the condition and the window frame. Double check the entire joint, making sure

there are no voids left in the seal.

8. Reinstall the sash if it was removed in Step #1.

9. After installation of the sealant joint, recheck the operation of the sash to ensure proper operation and contact

with the weather stripping.

10. Follow the guidelines for finishing the interior as prescribed in Section 16.10.

16.2 Equal Leg Frame Window Installations With A Receptor System

The installation of equal leg frames often incorporates the use of receptors, subsills and flashing. The methods

outlined in the following sections describe the installation of receptor systems prior to the window frames.

16.2.1 Preparation of the Receptor System Prior to Window Installation

Prior to installation of the window frames, check each opening to verify conformance to the architectural drawings,

specifications and the design intent. This includes:


1. Verifying the opening size to ensure a proper fit and joint geometry. Check each opening to determine if it is


2. Checking the construction materials, verifying that they are structurally suitable for attachment of the

accessories.

3. Determining whether flashing materials are present at the head condition.

• If flashing is present, make sure that the attachment of the receptor at the head will not penetrate the

flashing.

• If flashing is present, determine where the window will be positioned to ensure that the perimeter seal is

inboard of the flashing so water drainage will occur outboard of the perimeter joint at the head receptor

(see Figure 16-9).


4. Make sure that the attachment fasteners specified for the condition will work as intended, and that the

conditions are suitable for attachment on all four sides.

Note: As an example, if the fasteners prescribed are self-drilling masonry anchors, and the condition is not


5. Distribute the receptor systems to the corresponding openings. Receptor systems are often shipped in

bundles and may be marked to correspond with the opening.

6. If flashing is required at the sill, be certain that any flashing used does not compromise the thermal barrier in

areas where cold temperatures can be expected.

7. Check the receptor system to determine if any field assembly or fabrication is required. Some receptor

systems will require field cutting, drilling and the application of end dams, gaskets, anchor clips, splice plates,

etc.

• If cutting is required, check the project shop drawings for sizing to ensure a proper fit. As an example, if

subsills are used, the cut size may be dictated by the shop drawings so the window frames can be

installed without interference.


• When cutting to length, such as in subsill applications, the installer will be required to apply the end dams

after any gaskets have been applied as indicated in step #8, (see Figure 16-10). In cases where the

subsill has previously been cut to length, the end dams and gaskets may already be applied.

Figure 16-10 Application of End Dams

• When applying end dams, make sure to properly clean off the ends of both the subsill and the end dam

with appropriate solvent to ensure a good seal. After applying solvent, immediately dry off the material.

Do not allow the solvent to air dry on the material.

Note: It is critical that this step not be overlooked as oil, grease and dirt deposited during the manufacturing

process can have a detrimental effect on the adhesion capability of the sealant.

• Apply and seal the end dams as directed by the manufacturer. Be sure to seal the joint between the end

dam and the subsill, and then tool the sealant to remove air bubbles and promote good adhesion.

8. Check the receptors and subsill for grooves, which may require the installation of the gaskets (see Figure 16-

11). If required, use the following steps before applying the end dams.

• Prior to installing the gaskets, remove the material from the roll and allow it to relax. Don't stretch the

gaskets.

• Cut the gasket long enough to allow for crowd in, or compress it so that if it shrinks, it won't be too short.

Example: Some gaskets are cut 1/4” per foot longer than the extrusion length. Check with the gasket

and/or window manufacturer to determine cutting requirements.


Figure 16-11 Application of Gaskets

9. Drill the accessories as indicated on the shop drawings. Make sure to drill the hole-sizes and locations

according to the drawings and/or any job calculations.

• Receptors may require expansion slots and subsills may require slip anchors to allow for expansion and

contraction.

• Check the installation instructions when locating fixed points and expansion points and make sure to

follow the recommended procedures for attachment of the receptor system to the substrate.

Note: When applying fasteners in an expansion slot, it is generally recommended that the fastener be

positioned in the center of the slot (see Figure 16-12). Check the shop drawings for specific instructions.

Figure 16-12 Attachment of Fasteners through Slots

10. If anchor clips are to be applied prior to installation, attach them now according to the manufacturer's

instruction (see Figure 16-13). Use the fasteners specified by the manufacturer.


Figure 16-13 Attach Anchor Clips

11. Determine where the receptor system will set in the opening and verify that the conditions allow for a suitable

sealant joint.

• Some conditions, such as brick veneer walls, will incorporate an air space or cavity that will dictate where

the receptor system will be placed to ensure proper joint back up.

• Depending on the location of the receptor system relative to the interior conditions, additional interior trim

and/or jamb extensions may be required and applied later to finish off the interior.

16.2.2 Installation of the Receptor System Prior to Window Installation

When the opening has been inspected and the receptor system has been properly prepared in accordance with

Section 16.2.1, the installation of the receptor system may begin. In some cases, the subsill will be installed first,

followed by the head and jamb receptor. In other cases, the head and jamb receptors will be installed first,

followed by the subill.

There may also be other instances where the interior of the windows is inaccessible. In this case, the installation

of windows must be done from the exterior, requiring the snap-on receptor clip to be on the exterior side of the

wall.

The job conditions and the design of the subsill/receptor (whether the jamb receptor is designed to be the

termination point for the subsill, or the subsill is designed to be the termination point for the jamb receptor) will be

the determining factors. Regardless of the design for the specific job condition, the following steps can be altered

in sequence to allow for the variations.

1. Start by placing a level at the sill condition. Determine if the sill is level and how much shimming will be

necessary to allow for the proper joint size.

• Check the shop drawings to determine the amount of shimming necessary to allow for normal field

tolerances, and the proper overlap between the window frame and the receptor.

• Depending on the live load and dead load design criteria for the project, the amount of overlap between

the receptor and the window frame can be critical.


• A story pole (a temporary measurement guide made by the installer) will generally be helpful to determine

if enough clearance will remain to allow for the installation of the receptor and the window frame (see

Figure 16-14).

Figure 16-14 Checking the Opening for Proper Fit

• If the minimum clearance shown on the shop drawings is not enough to allow for proper installation of the

receptor and window frame, some adjustment in the shim height or the opening size may be necessary.

• Never install the product into an opening where it doesn’t fit. Make sure to provide enough clearance to

allow for building movement, as well as expansion and contraction (see Chapter 17).

2. Set and shim the subsill within the opening. Place a level on the subsill and check to ensure it is level. Adjust

the shims as needed to create a level condition.

Note: For water performance and drainage, it is critical that all subsills be set level because the application of

the receptor and the window frame will follow. If the subsill is not set level, there is a good chance that the

receptors and the window will not be set level.

3. Attach the subsill into position. Make sure to set the subsill straight within the opening. Attach through the

subsill or through anchor clips according to the job specific application.

4. If applying fasteners through the subsill:

• Make sure to clean the subsill and fastener head/washers/nuts prior to the application of the sealant in

order to provide good contact and adhesion of the sealant.

• Be sure to first pump sealant into the hole and on top of the surface the fastener will penetrate.

• Next, apply the fastener, any washers, and the nut as required.

• Finally, seal over the fastener/nut and washer assembly making sure to fully encapsulate the assembly.


• Tool the sealant to fill any voids, remove air pockets, and to create a water tight installation.

5. Continue to make adjustments as required, re-checking and verifying that the minimum/maximum overlap

requirements between the window and the receptor system will be maintained (see Figure 16-14).

6. Once the subsill is set, apply a sealant bead between the end dam and the building condition. It is often

necessary to apply a backer rod into the joint to control the amount of sealant used (see Figure 16-15). If the

jamb receptor is going to be the termination point for the subsill, skip to Steps #8 and #9, then come back to

Step #7.

Figure 16-15 Sealing the End Dam to the Jamb Condition

7. Tool the sealant against the jamb condition, creating a wash that will allow any residual water that gets behind

the receptor to drain harmlessly into the subsill.

• If the subsill is set after the jamb receptor, seal the joint between the end dam and the jamb receptor,

creating a wash to divert water into the subsill (see Figure 16-16).

•


Figure 16-16 Sealing the Subsill End Dam to the Jamb Receptor

8. After installation of the subsill, the head receptor can be installed. Install the head receptor directly in line with

the subsill.

• First, check the specific type of receptor to determine if a foam block or back up plate will be required to

support the sealant joint at the ends of the receptor where the perimeter joint will occur (see Figure 16-

17).

Figure 16-17 Plugging the Ends of the Receptor

• If a foam block is used, install it in place and seal over the ends to essentially create an end plug.

• If a back up plate is used, it may be applied prior to installation of the head receptor, or it may be applied

after the head and jamb receptors are in place. Check the manufacturer's instructions for specific details.

• Use a laser or level to align the head receptor with the subsill below.


• Check the drawings to understand the relationship between where the window head will set within the

receptor and where the window sill will set within the subsill. The proper relationship will only occur when

the window frame is plumb within the opening after the receptor system is installed (see Figure 16-18).

Figure 16-18 Understanding Relationship between the Head and Sill Conditions

• Shim and attach the head receptor to the head condition using the fasteners specified for the condition.

Make sure to shim the head receptor so that it is both level along its length, and from front to back (not

rolled) within the opening.

• The installer is encouraged to use a story pole or a piece of the jamb receptor to line up the head with the

sill and to determine the exact height location of the head receptor.

• Fasten the head receptor in place by tightening the fasteners snug, yet still allowing for further

adjustment.

• Make sure the fasteners at the head will not interfere with the installation of the window frame.

9. Once the head receptor and subsill are in place, the jamb receptors can be installed. If the previous steps

were used, the installation of the jamb receptors should be relatively easy.

• The jamb receptor should fit between the bottom outside leg of the head receptor and the top outside

surface of the subsill, but will depend on your specific application (see Figure 16-19).

• In cases where extreme movement is expected, a sealant joint may be required between the head and

jamb receptors. In this case, use a back up plate with bond breaker applied to the exterior face of the

plate to bridge the gap (see Figure 16-20).

• Set the jamb receptor within the opening. Shim and fasten with the appropriate fasteners. Add blocking

behind the receptor at the locking points and hinge points for casement and sliding windows.

• Recheck the opening to verify that the window will set into a plumb, level and square condition. Make any

final adjustments that are needed.


Figure 16-19 Installation of Jamb Receptor

Figure 16-20 Splice between Jamb and Head Receptors at Moving Joints

10. Insert splice sleeve, bond breaker tape, and/or silicone splice sheet as required for joint backup at head/jamb

receptor intersection. Back seal all joints between the head receptor and the jamb receptor, and the jamb

receptor to the subsill. Tool the sealant to ensure good contact and adhesion.


11. Prior to window installation, check the subsill for any debris. Clean out any debris that will block the weep

holes or keep the subsill from draining.

• A method of field checking the water integrity of the subsill can be used by the installer to ensure it is

water tight. This simple field test method can help reduce the expensive call backs associated with water

penetration at the subsill.

- Use a suitable tape to cover over the weep holes.

- Fill the subsill with water and mark the high water point.

- Leave the water in the subsill for at least fifteen minutes. If no water leakage is evident, the subsill is

considered water tight.

- If leakage occurs, pinpoint the place of escape, drain the water from the subsill, then reseal the point

of leakage when the materials are dry.

• After checking the subsill for water penetration, make sure to remove the tape so the subsill can drain

freely later.

16.2.3 Application of the Perimeter Seal When Using Receptor Systems

Once the receptor system is securely attached in position, the installation is ready for the perimeter sealant

application.

1. Generally, the installer can work from the interior to apply the perimeter joint between the receptors/subsills

and the perimeter condition. In some cases, scaffolding and/or work platforms are provided to allow for easy

access.

2. Make sure the conditions are clean, dry and suitable for sealant application.

• Remove any loose debris and wipe any dirt or dust off from the condition and the receptor system.

3. Apply primer to the perimeter condition and to the receptor system if recommended by the sealant

manufacturer.



• Apply the proper amount of primer as prescribed by the sealant manufacturer. Do not apply an excessive

amount of primer.


backer rod.



5. Once the joint is ready, apply the perimeter sealant. Start at one corner and push the sealant into the joint

(see Figure 16-21).





Figure 16-21 Perimeter Seal Application

6. Once the joint is sealed, tool the sealant joint to remove any remaining air pockets, promote good adhesion,

and create a smooth joint of the proper depth and geometry.

7. Clean any excess sealant off the condition and the receptor system. Double check the entire joint, making

sure there are no voids left in the seal.

16.2.4 Preparation of the Window for Installation with a Receptor System

Once the receptor system has been installed and sealed to the opening, the installer can prepare for window

installation. This includes unpacking the window and making sure it is ready for installation.

Some projects require jamb reinforcement channels in the jambs of window frames for added strength. Check the

requirements for the job and apply reinforcement channels as directed, making sure they are the right size and in

the right location (see Figure 16-22).

Whenever possible, dry fit the window into the opening to verify the fit. Check the amount of overlap between the

head and jamb receptor and the window frame, making sure it is consistent and according to the design intent. If

the fit is good, the installer can remove the window and proceed with the following steps for window installation.


Figure 16-22 Application of Reinforcement Channel

16.2.5 Installation of the Window in Openings with a Receptor System

Install the window using the following steps:

1. After checking the fit and making sure the conditions are level, the installer can prepare for installation of the

window.

• In some cases, the installation will require a bead of sealant applied to the upturned leg of the subsill;

follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

• In other cases, gaskets are used as the air/water seal between the subsill and the window frame.

Depending on the design of the subsill, this gasket was either previously applied in the groove or will be

applied after window installation.

2. The installer may also be required to apply sealant to the head/jamb receptor prior to the installation of the

window. Check the drawings to determine the design intent and apply the bead as directed (see Figure 16-

23).


Figure 16-23 Sealing the Receptor or Subsill

3. The opening is now ready for window installation. Position the window as close to the opening as possible.

Lift the window and rotate the bottom out while holding the head inboard.

4. Before setting the window in place, try to get the window centered in the opening as much as possible.

• This is especially critical if sealant was applied at the subsill or receptor to avoid scraping the sealant off

when moving the window from side to side.

5. Set the window in place, positioning the bottom of the window on top of the subsill.

• When setting the window in place, use caution so that the bottom edge of the frame is not rubbed against

the exterior gasket at the jambs or head receptor. Doing so may pull the gasket out of the gasket pocket

(see Figure 16-24).


Figure 16-24 Verify Gasket is Secure

• Don’t shove the window too far into the jamb receptor. This could cause damage to the end dams.

6. Rotate the head of the window up and push it out toward the exterior until it hits the head receptor and

sealant.

7. Check the location of the window, making sure it is centered in the opening, allowing for a consistent overlap

around the entire perimeter.

• Double check the gasket, making sure the gasket has stayed in place and has not dropped down or

become dislodged.

• If the gasket has become dislodged, remove the window and reinsert the gasket; the gasket will not

function if it is not installed properly.

• Apply pressure down on the window frame to make sure it is seated as far as possible into the bottom of

the subsill.

8. Place a level on the window sill to verify that the sill is level. If the window is not level, remove it and

determine why. Then make adjustments as required, and reseal the receptor and subsill again prior to

reinstallation.

9. Typically, the window frame is not anchored to the receptor or subsill. This allows the window to float within

the opening, allowing for building movement and product expansion.

• When working with multiple windows within a single opening, follow the additional instructions in Section

16.3.

• When working with casement windows, it is often desirable to add an anchor at the hinge points (see

Figure 16-25). Check the shop drawings for specific requirements relative to the job application.


Figure 16-25 Attachment at Hinge and Lock Points

• Apply fasteners near or through the hinge points directly into the structural jamb condition as directed by

the manufacturer.

• When working with hung windows, apply blocking (wood and shims) at the meeting rails to help keep the

jambs straight.

• Apply blocking at sliding windows at the center of the vertical jamb to help resist the load when the sash

is shut and/or locked.

10. Once the window is positioned in the opening, temporary receptor clips can be applied to hold the window in

place.

• Do not leave temporary clips in place as they are not designed to support the full load.

11. If temporary receptor clips are not used, or if it is time to complete the installation, apply the finished receptor

clips as follows:

• Check the jamb receptor to subsill intersection. Prior to applying the jamb receptor clip, apply a bead of

sealant at the space between the edge of the window and the receptor (see Figure 16-26).


Figure 16-26 Application of Sealant at Receptor to Subsill Intersection

• There will not be a back-up surface for this sealant joint, but a blind seal (applied to the receptor clip later)

will allow the two seals to integrate.

• Make sure to install the gasket material into the grooves on the receptor as required. Do not cut the

gasket short. Cut it long enough (allowing for excess) so that if shrinkage occurs later, there will still be

enough to cover the entire length.

12. Apply a heavy bed of sealant to the back of the receptor clip where it overlaps the sill framing of the window

(see Figure 16-26). After applying the sealant, apply the receptor clip into position. Tool and clean any

excess sealant that appears on the finished surface.

13. Check the installed product to ensure that it operates properly and that the reveal is equal between the sash

and frame.

16.3 Horizontal Ribbon Window Installations With A Receptor System

The installation of multiple windows (often called ribbon windows) is very similar to the instructions outlined in

Section 16.2; however, additional preparations and steps will be necessary.

Two things must be considered when installing windows in horizontal ribbons using receptor systems. First is the

preparation and installation of the receptor system, which will often be spliced together in a single opening. The

second consideration is the use of mullions, and the need to properly anchor the mullions between the units to

handle the structural load.

16.3.1 Preparation of the Receptor System for Horizontal Ribbon Window Applications

When installing receptors and subsills in horizontal ribbon window applications, the amount of preparation needed

will be based on the width of the opening and whether splicing is necessary. The governing factor will be the

length of the receptor/subsill, which is often determined based on the shipping capabilities.

When preparing receptors and subsills, follow the procedures outlined below. The splicing requirements are

common to both receptors and subsills.

1. Distribute the materials to the correct opening.


2. Determine what field fabrication is necessary, such as cutting, drilling and the application of end dams,

gaskets and anchor clips as outlined in Section 16.2.1.

• Receptors may require expansion slots, and subsills may require slip anchors to allow for expansion and

contraction.

• Check the installation instructions when locating fixed points and expansion points, and make sure to


• When applying fasteners in an expansion slot, it is generally recommended that the fastener be

positioned in the center of the slot (see Figure 16-27).

Figure 16-27 Expansion Slots/Slip Anchors

3. In addition to the preparations outlined in Section 16.2.1, splice plates will need to be applied (see Figure 16-

28).

• Splices may be made of extrusions, formed from aluminum sheet or silicone compatible rubberized splice

sleeves.

• Typically, rigid splice plates will be attached to one end of the extrusion and allowed to float freely with the

opposing end of the mating piece, while flexible splices are sealed to both extrusions after installation.

• First, apply any bond breaker tape to the splice as indicated on the drawings. The application of bond

breaker tape is necessary to back up the sealant joint and allow for expansion and contraction, while

avoiding three-side adhesion.

• Once the bond breaker tape is applied, the splice can be installed. Attach the splice using the fasteners

indicated on the shop drawings.

• Check the design of the splice and determine if the receptor/subsill is designed to simply sit down or nest

with the opposing piece, or if the two pieces are to be slipped together prior to installation. The application

will vary based on the design of the extrusion and the splice.


Figure 16-28 Application of Splice Sleeve

16.3.2 Installation of the Receptor System in Horizontal Ribbon Window Applications

After preparation of the receptor system and assembly of the splice plates, the receptor/subsill can be installed

into position. Follow the installation procedures outlined in Section 16.2.2 and the perimeter sealing procedures in

Section 16.2.3, and use the additional following precautions.

1. Starting from one end of the opening, install the receptor system. The receptor system must be carefully

applied to ensure that all materials are properly lined up to allow for window installation later.

• It is a good idea to use strings or a laser to help locate the position of the receptors and subsill. Setting

string will help keep the accessories straight within the opening.

• As mentioned in previous sections, a story pole and laser will also help keep the receptor and subsill in

line with one another from top to bottom, and ensure that the amount of clearance between the head

receptor and subsill is correct.

2. Check the installation of each piece to ensure it is set plumb, level and square within the opening and in

relationship to each other.

3. Once all of the pieces are installed in the opening, seal the splice joint (see Figure 16-29).

• Apply the splice sleeve and sealant over the joint, and then tool it to ensure that all air pockets are

removed and to promote good adhesion.

• Use caution when applying the sealant. Make sure the amount of sealant will not create interference with

the installation of the window later.

Note: Installing too much sealant may cause the window to rest on top of the sealant, causing the window to sit

out of level.


Figure 16-29 Sealing Splice Joints

4. Prior to installation of the windows, re-check the installation of the receptor system and make sure all

adjustments are made prior to the application of the perimeter seal.

5. Apply the perimeter seal as outlined in Section 16.2.3. Re-check all joints to ensure that no voids are left in

the sealant around the perimeter or between the perimeter seal and the splice joints.

16.3.3 Installation of Windows and Mullions in Horizontal Ribbon Window Applications

The installation of multiple windows in horizontal ribbon applications can be classified into two basic categories.

These categories are defined as male/female frames, or frames with independent structural mullions (see Figure

16-30).

The differences between the two categories are relatively simple. Frames with male and female mullions are

designed to mate (slip) together during installation, and may or may not require additional anchor clips at the head

and sill depending on the height of the window opening.

Frames installed with independent structural mullions typically involve the attachment of the mullion to both the

receptor and the subsill.

Independent mullions are often required to support the structural load imposed on the jambs of the window

frames. The structural mullions carry the load to the extreme top and bottom, which in turn distributes the load to

anchor clips within the subsill and receptor.

Check the project shop drawings to determine the design intent and mullion type for the job application. Each job

is different. The shop drawings, installation instructions, and job calculations will dictate the requirements for the

application.


Figure 16-30 Variations in Mullion Types

16.3.3.1 Male/Female Frames

If male/female frames are used, the installation of the window frames is typically done in sequence, starting from

one end and working towards the opposing end.

The installation of each window sets up the position for the next window. This makes it very important to keep the

frames in the proper position so that when the opposing jamb is reached, there is enough clearance to get the last

window in place.

Use the following guidelines when installing male/female window combinations:

1. Check the first window frame to determine if the male/female jamb requires gaskets. If the gasket is not

already applied, install it now.

• Make sure to insert enough of the gasket (crowd-in-place) to allow for shrinkage and still provide the

necessary coverage.

• When required, back-seal between the male and female frame halves to create an air/water seal (see

Figure 16-31).


Figure 16-31 Installing Male/Female Frames

2. Set the window into position in the subsill, and then rotate the head toward the exterior pushing it against the

receptor.

3. Move the window horizontally until it nests with the jamb receptor. Don’t push it too far as that may cause

damage to the end dams.

• Check the horizontal dimension and make sure the window is in the proper position before proceeding.

• Put pressure on the bottom of the window to make sure it is seated as far as possible into the sill.

• Once the first window is installed, apply any additional anchor clips at the head and sill as directed by the

project shop drawings. This will help keep the frame from moving or shifting out of position.

• Attach the clips and/or fasteners recommended by the manufacturer for this application.

4. Apply temporary receptor clips in place along the head and/or jamb to secure the window into position until all

the windows are installed in the opening.

• Do not leave the temporary clips in place, as they are not designed to carry the full load.

5. Bring the next window over to the opening. Check the designed overlap, and position the window into the

subsill so it will just clear the window frame installed previously.

• Again, if the window frame requires a back-bead of sealant, apply it prior to setting the window in position.

6. After setting the next window in place, slide frame horizontally until it mates with the male/female frame of the

window set previously.

• The frame may need to be raised slightly to reduce interference or drag within the subsill.

• Check to ensure that the frames are properly aligned; then push the frame horizontally until the

male/female intersect with one another.

• From the interior, check the fit. Make sure the frames mate together according to the shop drawings.

• Some male/female combinations are designed to allow for expansion and contraction. Check the

drawings and be sure to leave the appropriate joint width.


7. Continue the installation process, setting each window in place, applying anchor clips as required until the last

window in the opening is reached.

8. The last window in a run is usually the trickiest. Check the opening clearance to ensure there is enough room

between the last window frame and the jamb receptor (see Figure 16-32).

Figure 16-32 Setting the Last Unit in a Ribbon

• In most cases, the clearance allowed for the last window will be enough to get it in place without

interference with the jamb receptor.

• In cases where there is slight interference, it might be necessary to raise the last window frame high

enough to clear the subsill (holding the window plumb), then rotate the male/female jamb into the

opposing window frame before setting the window down on the subsill.

9. Once the last window frame is set into the proper position, the finished receptor clips can be installed around

the perimeter and the final interior sealing work can be completed.

16.3.3.2 Independent Structural Mullions and Corner Mullions

The installation process for independent structural mullions will vary from job to job. Some applications will require

that the mullions are installed in sequence along with the window frame; however, the mullions are not an integral

part of the window frame.

Other applications will require that each mullion be installed independently of the window frame. This will involve

locating and attaching the mullions within the opening, then installing the window frames.

Regardless of which application is used, the attachment of the independent structural mullion is generally a

requirement. Special anchor clips are designed to carry the load imposed on the mullion from the adjacent

framing (see Figure 16-33).


Figure 16-33 Example Clip for Structural Mullions

Mullions Installed In Sequence

When mullions are installed in sequence (i.e., window frame, then mullion, then window frame), the practice is

very similar to the steps outlined in Section 16.3.3.1, the main difference is that a structural mullion (commonly

one piece) will be installed after each unit.

• The mullion will typically be a double male or double female so it easily mates with the opposing frames

(see Figure 16-34).

• Check the project shop drawings or installation instructions to determine if gaskets/sealant or both are to

be applied to the mullion or frame before installation.

• Determine if anchor clips are required at the frame and/or at the mullion interface with the head receptor

and subsill.


Figure 16-34 Mullions Installed In Sequence

Mullions Installed Before the Window

1. When mullions are installed first (before the windows), a three-piece type mullion is often used. Use the

following guidelines:

• Make sure the receptor and subsill are properly positioned and anchored.

• Use the shop drawings to determine the exact location of the mullions (where they are to be positioned in

the opening). Mark the points on the head receptor and subsill for use later.

• Special reinforcing plates and/or anchor clip receivers may be necessary. In some cases, anchor clip

receivers are pre-inserted into the subsill prior to installation. In other cases, the anchor clip receivers can

be dropped or slipped into the subsill and/or receptor, and are positioned by the installer as needed to

allow for mullion attachment (see Figure 16-35).

Figure 16-35 Reinforcing Plates in Subsill


2. In cases where the clip angle does not lock in place or integrate with a receiver, and attachment of the clip

involves penetration of the subsill, the installer must make sure the clip assembly is properly sealed in place

using the following guidelines:

• First determine the location of the clip in the subsill. Using the clip, find and drill the appropriate size hole

in the subsill.

• To seal the clip/fastener assembly, first pump sealant into the hole in the subsill.

• Apply a bed of sealant on top of the subsill over the entire area where the clip will rest (see Figure 16-36).

(This bed shall be 1/8” thick.)

Figure 16-36 Attaching Through Clip in Subsill

• Set the clip into position into the sealant, pressing it in place, causing the sealant to compress out and

around the clip perimeter.

• Install the fastener(s), any washers, and the nuts into the clip, placing sealant between each layer.

• Encapsulate the entire head of the fastener/washer/nut with sealant to ensure a water tight joint.

• Tool the sealant at the fastener and around the clip to remove any air pockets and help promote good

adhesion.

• Randomly check installations with water after the clips are attached and the sealant has had time to

properly cure.

Corner Mullion Installation

When corner mullions are used, they may be the type that are installed in sequence with the window, or installed

before the window frame as outlined in the previous steps. Usually the corner mullion design will be similar to the

rest of the mullions on the project, so the same steps for installation and attachment can typically be used.

However, corner mullions are available in a number of configurations in order to allow for the various corner types

(e.g., 135º, 45º, 90º Inside and Outside Corners, see Figure 16-37).


Figure 16-37 Various Corner Mullions

Finish Mullion and Window Installation

1. Once the anchor clips have been installed into the head receptor and subsill, mullion installation can begin.

• Use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer to attach the mullion to the anchor clip.

• Check for slots in the clip at the head condition. Slots are designed to hold the frame in place, yet allow

for expansion/contraction and building movement. If slots are present, it’s best to locate the fasteners in

the center of the vertical slot.

• Make sure the fastener heads and the anchor clip will not cause interference with the installation of the

window frame later.

• Apply a bead of sealant at any metal-to-metal joints where the mullion will interface with the subsill or

receptor (see Figure 16-38). Check the project drawings for seal locations.

• After setting the mullions in place, tool the sealant on both the inboard and outboard side. Clean off any

excess sealant that will show on the exposed finish.

• It’s a good idea to dry fit a frame into place between two opposing mullions to ensure it will fit properly

prior to attaching the remaining mullions in place.

• Check the location of each mullion as the installation progresses. Make sure there will be enough room

for the last mullion and frame in the opening so that there will not be an interference problem.

• Check each installation to ensure that the mullion is plumb and leaves a square opening to receive the

next window (see Figure 16-39).


Figure 16-38 Application of Sealant for Mullion

Figure 16-39 Checking Opening for Plumb/Square

2. Once the mullions are secured in place and the opening is given a final check to ensure a good fit, the

installation of the window frames can begin (see Figure 16-40).

• Before setting the window frame in place, check to see if a bead of sealant is required in the subsill or

receptor. Check the shop drawings and apply sealant as required (see Figure 16-23).


Figure 16-40 Installing Windows between Mullions

3. Insert each window into the opening left by the mullions. Center the window between the mullions and set the

window frame in place. Also refer to Section 16.2.5 for typical instructions involving window frame installation.

• Never leave a frame unsecured in the opening. Use short temporary clips (pressure plates) to secure the

frame in place until continuous clips can be applied.

• Do not leave the temporary clips in place, as they are not designed to carry the full load.

• Always use the pressure plate fasteners recommended by the manufacturer – never substitute.

• When applying continuous pressure plates, make sure to leave enough clearance to apply the receptor

clips.

• Once the continuous pressure plates and receptor clips are applied, the finished covers can be snapped

on (see Figure 16-41).

Figure 16-41 Application of Pressure Plates and Covers


4. After all of the window frames are secured in place, complete the installation by applying any additional

sealant/insulation as required for this project. See Section 16.9 and 16.10 for information relative to finishing

the interior and exterior.

16.4 Vertical Stack Window Installations With A

Receptor System

The installation of vertical stack windows is similar to the instructions outlined in Section 16.3 for horizontal

ribbons; however, additional preparations and steps will be necessary.

Two things must be considered when installing windows in vertical stacks using receptor system. First is the

preparation and installation of the receptors, which will often be spliced together in a single opening. The second

is the use of horizontal stack mullions, and the need to properly anchor the mullions between the units to handle

expansion/contraction, dead load and building movement.

16.4.1 Preparation of the Receptor System for Vertical Stack Window Applications

When installing receptors and subsills in vertical stack window applications, the amount of preparation needed will

be based on the height of the opening and whether splicing of the receptors is necessary.

Typically, the width of the opening will be small enough to allow for the installation of a single piece (non-spliced)

subsill. The guidelines outlined in Section 16.2.1 and 16.2.2 are appropriate for the installation of the subsill.

When installing vertical stack windows, follow the procedures outlined below. Omit the splicing instructions if the

openings on the job are small enough to use a single piece of receptor at the jambs.

1. Distribute the materials to the proper opening.

2. Determine what field fabrication is necessary, such as cutting, drilling and applying gaskets as outlined in

Section 16.2.1.

3. In addition to the preparation outlined in Section 16.2.1, splice plates may need to be applied to the receptors

(see Figures 16-28 and 16-29).

• Splices may be extrusions formed from aluminum sheet, and/or silicone compatible rubberized splice

sleeves.

• Typically, rigid splice plates will be attached to one end of one extrusion (preferably the upper extrusion)

and allowed to float freely with the opposing end of the mating piece, while flexible splice sleeves are

sealed to each opposing extrusion.

• First apply any bond breaker tape to the splice as indicated on the drawings. The application of bond

breaker tape is necessary to back up the sealant joint and allow for expansion and contraction while



indicated on the project shop drawings or installation instructions.

• Check the design of the splice and determine if the receptor is designed to simply sit down or nest with

the opposing piece, or if the two pieces are to be slipped together prior to installation. The application will

vary based on the design of the extrusion and the splice.

16.4.2 Installation of the Receptor System in Vertical Stack Window Applications

After preparation of the receptor system and assembly of the splice plates, the receptor system can be installed

into position.


Follow the installation procedures outlined in Section 16.2.2 and the perimeter sealing procedures in Section

16.2.3, and use the following additional instructions:

1. Starting from either the top or the bottom of the opening, install the receptor. The receptor must be carefully

applied to ensure that all materials are properly lined up to allow for window installation later.

• It is a good idea to use strings or a laser to help keep the position of the receptors in line with the subsill.

Lasers will help keep the accessories straight within the opening.

• A story pole and laser will also help keep the accessories in line with one another from side to side. This

will ensure that the amount of clearance between the jambs is appropriate for horizontal mullion and

window installation, which will be done later.

2. Check the installation of each piece to ensure it is set plumb, level and square within the opening and in


3. Once all of the pieces are installed in the opening, seal the splice joints.

• Apply sealant into the joint, then tool it to ensure that all air pockets are removed, and to promote good

adhesion between the opposing ends of the extrusion.

• Use caution when applying the sealant. Make sure the amount of sealant will not create interference with

the installation of the window later.

Note: Installing too much sealant may cause the window to rest against sealant, causing the window to rack out

of plumb.

4. Prior to installation of the windows, re-check the installation of the accessories and make sure all adjustments

are made prior to the application of the perimeter seal.

5. Apply the perimeter seal as outlined in Section 16.2.3. Re-check all joints to ensure that no voids are left in

the sealant around the perimeter, or between the perimeter seal and the splice joints.

16.4.3 Installation of Windows in Vertical Stack Window Applications

The installation of multiple windows in vertical stack applications can be classified into two basic categories:

frames with stack mullions and/or frames with independent horizontally floating structural mullions. Frames with

horizontal stack mullions are designed to mate (slip) together during installation, and may or may not require

additional anchor clips at the jambs, depending on the height and weight of the window (see Figure 16-42).

Frames incorporating independent horizontally floating structural mullions typically involve the attachment of the

mullion to the receptor with anchor clips. Independent horizontally floating mullions are often required to support

the structural dead load imposed on the mullion from the frame above. This weight is then carried to the jambs

through dead load clips. Solid shimming at the anchor points, and between the receptor and structure, is very

important at these locations.


Figure 16-42 Examples of Horizontal Mullions

Note: The clips are designed to support the load, yet allow for free movement (expansion and contraction) of the

window below. Check the project shop drawings to determine the design intent and mullion type for the job

application. Every job is different, and both the shop drawings and job calculations will dictate the requirements

for each application.

16.4.3.1 Horizontal Stack Mullions

When horizontal stack mullions are used, installation of the windows is done in sequence, starting from the

bottom and working towards the top.

The installation of each window sets up the position for the next window, so it is important to keep the frames in

the proper position. This ensures that there is enough clearance to get the last window in place at the top.

Use the following guidelines when installing horizontal stack mullions in vertical stack window combinations:

1. Check the subsill and make sure it is ready for window installation.

2. Apply sealant into the subsill and receptor as directed by the manufacturer.

3. Set the window into position in the subsill. Rotate the head toward the exterior and push it against the

receptor at the jambs.

4. Move the window horizontally until it nests in the center of the jamb receptor opening. Check the horizontal

clearance, and make sure the window is in the proper position before proceeding.

5. Place pressure on the sill of the window to make sure it is seated into the subsill as far as possible.

6. Use a laser or level to check that the head of the window just installed is level before proceeding. Adjust if

necessary. If the head is not level it may cause the next window installed to be racked in the opening.

7. After installation of the first window, place the stack mullion on top of the frame at the head (see Figure 16-

43).

• Check the shop drawings and installation instructions to determine if sealant or a gasket is required.

• Frequently, a bead of sealant is required between the frame and the stack mullion; apply the sealant as

directed.

• Apply temporary receptor clips in place along the jamb to secure the window in position until all the

windows are installed in the opening.

• Do not leave temporary clips in place as they are not designed to carry the full load.

•


Figure 16-43 Install Horizontal Stack Mullion

8. Install the next window down on top of the horizontal stack mullion, pushing the frame against the jamb

receptors.

• Bring the window over to the opening. Raise the window into the opening and center it between the jambs

before setting it in place.

• After setting the next window in place, slide frame horizontally until it is centered within the opening.

• The frame may need to be raised to reduce interference or drag within the horizontal stack mullion.

9. From the interior, check the fit. Make sure the frame(s) is seated properly and mates together according to the

drawings.

10. Continue the installation process, setting each window in place until the last window is to be installed in a

vertical run.

11. The last window in a run is usually the trickiest. Double check the opening clearance to ensure there is

enough room between top of the window frame below and the head receptor (see Figure 16-44).

• In most cases, the clearance allowed for the last window will be enough to get it in place without

interference with the horizontal stack mullion.

• In cases where there is slight interference, you may need to pre-apply the stack mullion on the bottom of

the window frame prior to setting it on top of the window below.


Figure 16-44 Installation of the Last Unit

12. Once the last window frame is set into the proper position, the finished receptor clips can be installed around

the perimeter.

16.4.3.2 Independent Horizontally Floating Structural Mullions

The installation process for independent horizontally floating structural mullions is similar to the procedures

outlined in the previous section, but with one critical difference. When installing long runs of vertically stacked

windows, there must be an allowance for expansion and contraction while supporting the weight of the frame.

This is accomplished by using floating mullions, which are supported by dead load clips.

Typically, horizontally floating structural mullions are also installed in sequence, alternating window frame and

mullions one after another. The most important part of the sequence is to attach the dead load clip after the lower

window frame is installed, and just prior to the installation of the horizontal mullion (see Figure 16-45).


Figure 16-45 Installation of the Dead Load Clip

Use the following guidelines for installing window frames and independent horizontally floating structural mullions:

1. First check the opening and make sure the receptor and subsill are properly positioned and anchored.

2. Apply sealant into the subsill and receptor where directed, and install the first window frame into position.

3. Use the shop drawings to determine the exact location of the horizontal mullion (where it is to be positioned).

Mark the points on the jamb receptor using a level to locate both ends.

4. Attach the dead load clip into position within the jamb receptors.

• In some cases, the attachment of the dead load clip will go through the receptor, directly into the building

condition. This will transfer the load to a structural building element. In other cases, the anchor clip can

simply be attached to the receptor, as long as the load is not too significant for the application.

5. Once dead load clips are installed, the floating horizontal mullion can be positioned in place on top of the clip

and attached (see Figure 16-46).

• Use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer to attach the horizontal mullion to the dead load

clip.

• Check for slots in the clip or mullion. Slots are designed to hold the frame in place, yet allow for horizontal

expansion and contraction due to the width of the mullion. If slots are present, it is best to locate the

fasteners in the center of the slot to allow for this movement.

• Check each installation to ensure that the horizontal mullions are set level, and that a square opening

remains to receive the next window.


window frame later.

• Check the location of each mullion as the installation progresses. Make sure there will be enough room

for the last mullion and frame in the opening. This will ensure that there will not be an interference

problem later.


Figure 16-46 Installation of Floating Horizontal Mullion

6. Install the next window in place, centering the window between the receptors at the jambs.

• Never leave a frame unsecured in the opening. Use short temporary receptor clips and/or pressure plates

(when applicable) to secure the frame in place if continuous clips are to be applied later.

• When applying pressure plates, always use the screws recommended by the manufacturer; never

substitute.

• Once the continuous clips are applied, the finished covers can be snapped on over the pressure plates.

7. After all of the window frames are secured in place, complete the installation by applying the finished receptor

clips and sealant as directed by the manufacturer.

16.5 Transoms / Transition Mullions and Knee Wall Applications

Special circumstances and conditions frequently appear on jobs. When referring to transitions, there are too many

possible combinations to list in this section, but it is important to define a few of the more common conditions an

installer may experience. Some of the more common conditions involve transoms, transition mullions and knee

wall applications.

Transoms

Transoms typically involve the installation of a window unit (generally fixed) over or under another unit in a

separate master frame. An example of this might be a double horizontal slider with an 18” transom light above.

This is not to say that frames can’t be made with operable and fixed combinations in the same master frame; they

can, but when they are not in the same master frame, they are known as transoms (see Figure 16-47).

Transoms typically involve the application of a horizontal stack mullion, sealant, and a method of attachment

between the two frames. Many window and door transoms are built as combination units in the field before they

are installed. This is often done to facilitate the transportation to the job site without the worry of damage at the

horizontal stack.


The assembly practices used for transom units are very similar to those outlined in Section 16.4.3.1 involving

horizontal stack mullions. The biggest difference is the frequent need for additional fasteners, and reinforcing at

the horizontal stack mullion. However, the manufacturer will typically specify the fastener type and spacing, and

any reinforcement necessary (see Figure 16-48).

Figure 16-47 Example of a Transom Unit

Figure 16-48 Attachment of Horizontal Stack

Proper sealing is a critical element, and must be done such that water penetration is restricted. Any water that

does enter the horizontal stack mullion must be allowed to escape at the exterior joint.

Pay particular attention to the assembly and anchorage requirements of field assembled units, as the structural

requirements are critical to safety and the long-term performance of the assembly. Loads are transposed


differently in these kinds of units, and often require special reinforcing within the assembly, as well as unique

anchoring. The project shop drawings or a set of project calculations will typically define the requirements for a

given application.

Transition Mullions

Transition mullions involve the transition from one frame to another. This could include the transition from a 4”-

deep door frame section to a 3-1/4” window frame section (see Figure 16-49). Transition mullions may also

involve changes in height in a given opening like at a knee wall condition. An example of this would be where the

window opening goes from a full height window to a window sitting on a knee wall (see Figure 16-50).

Figure 16-49 Transition Mullion Between Frames

Figure 16-50 Transition Mullion at Knee Wall


The installation of a transition mullion is similar to a three-piece structural mullion as outlined in Section 16.3.3.2.

The biggest difference, however, occurs at the sill and head receptor and how they are terminated to

accommodate the difference in frame depth.

For transition mullion applications, use the following installation procedures in addition to those already defined in

Chapter 16.3.3.2:

1. Start by preparing the opening and setting the receptor and subsill.

• Generally this will require the installation of the subsill first, followed by the jamb and head receptors, then

the transition mullion (see Figure 16-51).

Figure 16-51 Installation Sequence for Knee Wall Applications

2. Prepare the transition mullion for installation. This may require closure channels in knee wall applications

where the mullion abuts the jamb condition.

• Install the closure channel on the lower half of the mullion. This will act as a back up for the sealant joint

as well as provide stability for the mullion.

• Seal the channel and attach it in place with fasteners as indicated by the project shop drawings.

• Anchor the mullion in place, using clip angles and attachment screws at the head and sill condition. Block

with shims and attach through the mullion into the knee wall when possible, to provide extra support (see

Figure 16-52). Seal all fastener penetrations.


Figure 16-52 Special Blocking and Anchoring At Knee Walls

3. Seal the joint between the mullion and the end dam on the subsill at the knee wall intersection (see Figure 16-

53).

• First apply a small backer rod into the joint between the mullion and the end dam.

• Apply sealant into the joint. Tool the sealant creating a wash, which will divert any residual moisture into

the subsill.

Once the transition mullion is in place and the sealant, fasteners and other accessories are applied, the typical

installation practices used for window installation as outlined in Section 16.3.3 may be followed


Figure 16-53 Special Sealing Requirements at Transition Mullions and Knee Walls

16.6 Checking Installation for Plumb, Level and square

Regardless of the installation practice used, all windows and accessories shall be installed plumb, level and

square within the opening.

To check for level and plumb the installer has a couple of very good options. The technique used for years has

been to place a level on the window frame at the head, sill and jambs (see Figure 16-54). Use caution to make

sure that the level is on the frame, not the sash, and that the frame is flat so you are not trying to put a level on an

irregular surface. Lasers can also be used with great accuracy, and are becoming more and more affordable.

The best way to check for square is to measure between the opposing corners (see Figure 16-54). When

checking for square, the measurements taken from corner to corner (on the diagonal) should be within 1/8” of one

another.

Checking for true, or making sure the frame isn’t racked within the opening (see Figure 16-55), is very important

as well. This can be accomplished by using two strings stretched from the opposing corners. By stretching two

strings tightly from corner to corner you can check to see if the strings touch at the center of an opening. If they

just barely touch, the frame is true within the opening; if they interfere with one another or they don’t touch at all,

the frame is racked within the opening.

Whenever the frame is not plumb, level and square within the opening, there is a great chance the window will not

operate properly. This can easily lead to both water penetration and air infiltration, and must be corrected before

proceeding.


Figure 16-54 Check for Plumb, Level and Square

Figure 16-55 Check for True (Racking)

16.7 Final Checking and Adjustment

Make a final check of the installation. Check the sash to ensure they are set square within the frame, and that the

latches are properly aligned and functioning.

Hung Windows

• Lift the bottom sash until it just clears the sill and check the gap. If the unit is square the gaps between

the frame and the sash will be equal.

• Shim and attach the frame at the meeting rail, or use jamb adjustment clips to secure frames at the

center.

• When installing double hung side load sash, be sure to fully engage the sash clips and guides on top of

the sash to ensure proper operation and sash alignment.


• When re-installing sash in tilt windows, be sure that the tilt triggers are fully engaged into the jambs and

that the pivot bars are completely engaged into the balance shoes.

• Never allow installation screws to deter the proper operation of the product. Check each sash for proper

operation.

• Check that the bottom and top sash stops have not fallen off during transportation, or were removed from

the jambs. If they have been removed for any reason, make sure that they are replaced.

Sliders

• Open each operable sash until it just clears the jamb and check the gap. It should be even along the

vertical edge of the sash if the unit is square.

• If the sash is not square, remove the sash to reduce the weight, and adjust the rollers prior to placing the

sash back into the window frame. Continue to check and adjust until the sash is square in the frame.

• Make sure that the frame of the operable slider is supported at the locking points so that if the sash is

slammed shut, the frame will resist damage.

Casements

• If the unit is square the gaps between the frame and the sash will be equal. Adjust the hinge and install

set screws to limit movement. When using butt hinges, always fasten through the hinge into the building

condition. This is especially critical in panning applications where anchorage may be limited. If the set

screw penetrates the window frame, set it in sealant.

All Window Types

• When the window is plumb, level and square, tighten all screws without distorting the frame. The frame

must be secure; however, it must not be twisted or warped by under- or over-shimming, or by improperly

positioning and over tightening fasteners.

16.8 Finishing the Exterior

The following guidelines are provided in addition to the instructions outlined in the previous sections regarding

finishing the exterior. These instructions relate to the application of a perimeter seal.

Select a backer rod with a diameter approximately 30% larger than the nominal width of the joint. (Rule of thumb:

the rod diameter should be at least 1/8" greater than the joint width.)

• Insert the backer rod into the joint using a blunt probe or roller. Do not puncture, fold or crease the backer

rod as that could cause emission of gas and bubbling of sealant. Do not apply joint primer directly to the

backer rod.

• Push the sealant into the joint over the backer rod in a continuous manner. The bead should be an even,

unbroken seal, sufficient to fill the gap between the window unit and the rough opening. Always follow the

manufacturer's instructions. (For detailed information on sealants see Chapter 13, Section 13.5.)

Remember, there are five basic steps for proper joint preparation and sealant application for windows and doors:

1. CLEAN – Joint surfaces must be clean, dry, dust free and frost free.

2. PRIME – If required, primer is applied to the clean surface(s).

3. PACK – Backer rod or bond breaker as required.

4. SHOOT – Sealant is applied by "pushing the bead" into the joint cavity.


5. TOOL – Dry tooling techniques are used to strike a flush joint and make certain the sealant has the proper

configuration and fully contacts the joint walls.

16.8.1 Allowance for Moisture Escape

Most windows are manufactured with weep holes to allow moisture to escape. The installer shall avoid covering

these weep holes with sealant, paint, or any other obstructive material. Remove any construction debris from the

drainage path to ensure proper drainage.

16.9 Finishing the Interior

16.9.1 Cavity Insulation

Whenever possible, place insulation in the cavity between the new window unit and the building components, or

between the receptor and the building components. This will help reduce air infiltration and thermal conductivity.

Use fiber insulation or low pressure foam (see Chapter 13, Section 13.6). Follow the manufacturer's guidelines.

Exception: Insulation is not required in small openings if they can be completely filled with sealant (see Chapter

13, Section 13.5 for sealant information).

16.9.2 Apply Backer Rod (Interior)

Like the exterior, backer rod should be placed over cavity insulation on the interior side of the window to control

sealant width and depth.

16.9.3 Apply Sealant (Interior)

On the interior of the window where exposed joints occur, place sealant over the backer rod in a continuous

manner. The sealant bead shall be even, unbroken and fill the gap between the window unit and the rough

opening. For detailed information on sealants, see Chapter 13, Section 13.5.

16.9.4 Trim or Drywall Returns

Buildings often involve cavities within the wall system. These cavities may introduce air at the joint between the

innermost surface of the window and the building condition. This air must be controlled in order to help reduce air

infiltration and reduce energy consumption.

If there are no open-air passages, the blockage of air becomes secondary, and the interior seal between the

drywall and the window frame becomes a cosmetic joint.

If the dry wall is intended to be a component of the air barrier system, the drywall J-channel shall be sealed to the

window (see Figure 16-56). This may or may not be a part of the installer's contract.

1. The responsible party shall coordinate the installation of the drywall and the J-Channel when abutting

against the window/accessory. Do not attach J-Channels to the window assembly or receptor unless

otherwise approved by the window manufacturer.

2. It is preferable that a 1/4” wide joint be left to allow for movement of the window due to wind load and/or live

load movement. If a properly sized joint is not left, cracking of the drywall may occur, or the sealant may tear,

requiring future maintenance.

3. If the window is installed toward the outside of the wall assembly, a drywall J-channel return shall be

installed in the recess, and the joint between the face of the window frame and the drywall J-channel shall be

sealed.


Figure 16-56 Trim and Drywall Returns

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Table of Contents

17.1 Expansion and Contraction ....................................................................................... 1

17.1.1 Installing Windows with Mullions/Expansion Joints............................................. 1

17.1.2 Structural Limitations .......................................................................................... 2

17.1.3 Allowance for Expansion and Contraction .......................................................... 2

17.1.4 Safety Precautions .............................................................................................. 3

17.2 Building Movement .................................................................................................... 4

17.2.1 Dead Load Movement ........................................................................................ 4

17.2.2 Live Load Movement .......................................................................................... 6

17.2.3 Seismic Movement ............................................................................................. 7

17.2.4 Inter-story Drift ......................................................................................................... 8

17.2.5 Putting It All Together ......................................................................................... 9






17.0 Expansion/Contraction and Building Movement

Allowing for expansion/contraction and building movement can present complex problems involving a number of

issues. Installers need to be aware of the different causes for movement as well as how to plan for these

movements when installing commercial windows and doors.

Section 17.1 addresses expansion and contraction of various materials due to temperature differences a product

may experience in the field. The impact of this temperature variation will vary, based on the coefficient of thermal

expansion of the materials being used.

Section 17.2 addresses live load, dead load, seismic movement and inter-story drift within the building. We will

explore what causes these types of movement and how to allow for them when installing commercial products.

17.1 Expansion and Contraction

Regardless of the type of product or the materials used, thermal expansion and contraction will occur. The

amount of movement that can be expected will be based on the length of a given piece of material, the coefficient

of thermal expansion, and the degree of temperature change it experiences.

One of the most important situations where expansion and contraction should be considered involves windows

that are installed in horizontal ribbons or vertically stacked. This may involve windows that are placed side by side

or stacked on top of one another, or both. Variations can include any combination of operable windows and fixed

windows used together. The assembly and installation of combination windows are discussed below.

17.1.1 Installing Windows with Mullions/Expansion Joints

Installers often mull units together in long runs, usually referred to as ribbon windows. This is usually done in the

field because if they were to be assembled in the factory, the units would be too large to ship and handle.

Products are usually assembled using male/female frames or supplementary profiles, independent structural

mullions or horizontal stack mullions

Male/female mullions (see Figure 17-1a) that are integral to the frame of the unit are used to "mull" frames

together side by side. Supplementary profiles (see Figure 17-1b) in a male/female configuration snapped onto the

adjacent frames perform the same function. Independent structural mullions (see Figure 17-2) are independent of

the master frame, yet are still used to "mull" the frames together in an opening. Horizontal stack mullions, or "H"

mullions, are used to stack one unit on top of another (see Figure 17-3).

Regardless of the mullion type used, special installation and sealing requirements are generally expected to

protect against water and air infiltration.

Always check the manufacturer's shop drawings for special requirements pertaining to attachment of the

mullions/framing, splice locations and special sealing/installation techniques.

Figure 17-1a Male/Female Frame Mullions


Figure 17-1b Supplementary Profiles Male/Female

Figure 17-2 Independent Structural Mullions

Figure 17-3 Horizontal Stack Mullion

17.1.2 Structural Limitations

There are structural limitations associated with combination windows, and they must never be assembled in

openings that exceed the manufacturer's recommendations.

To avoid problems, consult the manufacturer before starting each job. A professional engineering staff is usually

available to assist in making the proper decisions regarding the structural limitations of their products.

17.1.3 Allowance for Expansion and Contraction

Always consider and allow for thermal expansion and contraction. The materials used, the variations in

temperature, and the rate of expansion and contraction can vary greatly (see Table 17-1). Windows subject to


large amounts of movement can often result in loss of adhesion and sealant failure. Buckling and structural failure

is also possible in extreme cases.

Whenever the amount of expansion and contraction exceeds the recommended maximum joint movement or the

allowable clearance, consider dividing the units into smaller rough openings. Think about separating the units with

framing components, as opposed to stacking units on top of one another or mulling units.

As shown in Table 17-1, depending on the material, windows exceeding 16 feet in height could result in thermal

movement of up to 7/8" for Rigid PVC. This could cause excessive stress on the fasteners or the window

materials if the appropriate clearance is not provided.

Expansion and contraction rates shown in the table are based on the total amount of movement anticipated from

a specific length of material, based on a specific range in temperature. As an example, an aluminum extrusion

measuring 96" in length will typically move a total of 1/8" based on a temperature change of 100º F. As the type of

material, the material length or temperature range increases or decreases, so does the anticipated amount of

movement.

Manufacturers provide accessories that allow for movement, but they should be consulted regarding their

applications.

The color of the material and the product's exposure to sunlight will also have an effect on the amount of

movement, since darker materials absorb more heat from the sun's rays. This is important to consider when

installing products.

17.1.4 Safety Precautions

When working with multiple units, consider the weight of the assembly. Window and glass door frames can weigh

hundreds of pounds and can be extremely difficult to handle. Always use a sufficient number of people to set the

windows or glass doors in place.

Sometimes it may be more practical to set the units in place one at a time, as opposed to joining them together

prior to installation. Setting units into place individually requires a step-by-step process of setting the first unit,

APPROXIMATE THERMAL MOVEMENT FOR COMMON MATERIALS (Based on a 100°F Temperature Change Using an 8' Section of Material)

MATERIAL RANGE OF MOVEMENT DECIMAL FRACTION

*Rigid PVC .22" to .44"0.30” 79/32" to 7/16" Aluminum .130" 1/8"

Steel .065" 1/16" *Wood .017" to .025" 1/64" to 1/32" *Glass

Reinforced Polyester

.100" to .140" 3/32" to 5/32"

*Consult Manufacturer: Amount of movement will vary from these numbers depending on compound or species

used.

Table 17-1 Examples of Thermal Movement


sealing the mullion in place, then setting the next unit. This process requires careful planning. Chapter 16

addresses this in more detail.

17.2 Building Movement

An installer should be aware of four common types of building movement. They include:

• Dead load movement

• Live load movement

• Seismic movement

• Interstory drift

Each of these types of movement is independent of each other, yet they must all be considered where the

potential for such movement exists. Frequently, job specifications list the expected movement requirements for a

given building. In turn, the project shop drawings should show how the design of the product/installation would

allow for the movement specified.

17.2.1 Dead Load Movement

Dead load movement is the amount of movement that occurs due to the weight of the building components. This

includes the weight of the floor, the exterior façade, and the weight of the windows themselves. To simplify dead

load, just think of it as the weight of the materials that will not be removed or moved around in the building.

All buildings experience dead load movement, and all buildings are designed to accommodate this movement.

The steel or concrete structure is designed to flex. In other words, floors are designed to deflect based on a

specific amount of dead load per square foot of area. The steel or concrete structure itself is designed to move a

certain amount based on the strength of the structure.

How much the building is allowed to move and where this movement will take place are the questions that must

be asked. Buildings are typically designed on a grid pattern. That is, buildings are based on a vertical and

horizontal structural grid system, known as columns and beams.

As an example, a building may have columns that are spaced 20 feet on center. Between the columns are

beams, which carry the floor load to each column. The design of the beams is based on an expected amount of

movement or deflection (see Figure 17-4).


Figure 17-4 Example of Dead Load Movement

An example of this movement might be where the architect specifies the floor movement as L/360. This means

the amount of allowable movement can be determined by taking the column spacing/length, "L," (the length of the

beam in inches), and dividing it by the allowable deflection criteria (360). The result of this equation is the amount

of movement allowed at the center of the beam.

For an allowable deflection of L/360 between columns spaced at 20 feet on center, the equation would be

240"/360". The results of this formula would be .667" or just about 11/16”. Keep in mind that this movement may

be both plus and minus, meaning that the floor may raise 11/16" between columns or it may drop 11/16",

depending on the spacing and load between columns adjacent to the span in question.

With that in mind, imagine what would happen if windows were installed under the second floor incorporating a

1/4” joint. The results would be that in the middle of the beam, between the two columns, the floor would push

down on the top of the window by over 7/16", thereby destroying the sealant joint and potentially crushing the

window frames.

Design engineers can reduce the amount of movement by designing beams to deflect less, but this costs more in

terms of stronger beams. There is nothing a window manufacturer or an installer can do to avoid dead load

movement. They can only allow for this movement in the design and installation of their products.

To allow for movement, manufacturers offer receptor systems, which float with the floor. The receptor captures

the head of the window, while allowing for this movement without disrupting the sealant joint and/or placing the

weight on top of the window (see Figure 17-5).


Figure 17-5 Using a Receptor to Accommodate Dead Load Movement at the Head

Some buildings require a 1/4" or less movement, while others require 3/4" or more. This is a critical factor when

deciding which receptor system to use and designing the sealant joints around windows.

Always check the project shop drawings and the job specifications for both the design criteria (amount of

movement expected), and direction on how this movement is to be accommodated in the installation of the

window products.

17.2.2 Live Load Movement

Live load movement is similar to dead load with respect to how buildings move, but the loads that cause this

movement come from a different source. In simple terms, live load is the expected movement caused by things

that move, or may be expected to move, over the life of the building.

An example would be furnishings, like a grand piano. Another consideration might be a gathering of people, like in

a hotel where there may often be activities involving hundreds of people on a particular floor (see Figure 17-6).


Figure 17-6 Example of Live Load Movement

While the equation is expressed the same way, the loads are different. The loads are still based on an expected

amount of weight on a per square foot basis.

To understand this, just think about what would happen to the floor if a large weight were placed in the middle of a

span. The floor would deflect (drop) a certain amount, depending on the stiffness of the beam below. This is true

for all buildings; they are meant to move a given amount. Again, the use of receptor systems will allow the window

to remain stationary while the floor above or below moves.

This is not to say that a properly sized sealant joint won’t do the same job, but the combination of dead load and

live load movement on some buildings may be in excess of the capacity of any sealant joint.

17.2.3 Seismic Movement

Seismic movement is all together different from dead load and live load movement. An earthquake causes

seismic movement. Keep in mind that not all buildings are expected to experience this kind of movement, but

when they do, it is expected that the windows and doors will be required to accommodate the movement.

While some movement is expected vertically, most of the movement is horizontal. This can be in the plane of the

window frame (from side to side), or it may be perpendicular to the plane of the window, from inboard to outboard

of the opening. (See Figure 17-7 for examples of seismic movement.)

Allowing for seismic movement can again be accomplished by the use of receptors or expansion joints designed

specifically for this purpose (see Figure 17-8).

In the case of seismic movement, the idea is to allow the frame to move without causing serious glass breakage.

Receptors will allow the frame to move both horizontally and vertically, yet still give a great degree of protection

from glass breakage.


Figure 17-7 Example of Seismic Movement

Figure 17-8 Allowing for Seismic Movement

17.2.4 Inter-story Drift

Inter-story drift is the difference in displacement or movement between a floor and the roof/floor above or the floor

below whenever a building sways. The swaying is most pronounced during an earthquake but could occur from

high winds or live and dead loads as described earlier in this manual. Since inter-story drift is defined in terms of a

single story, in a multi-story building this term applies to a single story within the building frame. The differential

movement between the floors, when the building sways, must be accounted for in the building design (including


use of fenestration products). For example, a 10 foot story height that has a 0.10 story drift will experience a

differential movement between the floors of 1 foot.

Whatever the anticipated movement is must be addressed when designing for windows and doors. The inter-story

drift can be transferred to the frames resulting in racking from side to side. This could result in a number of

problems ranging from windows not opening to catastrophic failure. Also, some problems are so minor as to be

overlooked. These include rotation of glass within the frame or tears in perimeter seals. The impact of the

movement on windows or doors can be minimized or completely eliminated through proper design of the opening

and connections

The greater the drift, the greater the likelihood of damage. Typically, inter-story drift values larger than 0.025

indicate damage could be serious enough to threaten human safety. Values larger than 0.06 point to severe

damage, while values of 0.10 or larger mean probable building collapse.

17.2.5 Putting It All Together

It is safe to say that receptors can be designed to accommodate some or all of the movement indicated in the

previous sections. Putting all of these factors together is the responsibility of the design professional; yet it is the

installer's responsibility to recognize why receptors and special anchor clips (with vertical movement slots) are

used on a given project, that allows these materials to work as intended.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

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Table of Contents

18.1 Specially Shaped Window Construction .....................................................................................................1

18.2 Modifications to Standard Installation Instructions .....................................................................................2

18.3 Allowing for Additional Attachment Where Needed ....................................................................................3

18.4 Proper Shimming Techniques ....................................................................................................................3

18.5 Windows With Eyebrows ............................................................................................................................4






18.0 Specially Shaped Window Installation

Many manufacturers offer specially shaped window products and accessories to complement their standard

product offering (see Figure 18-1). These windows can add variety and beauty to any project. Specially shaped

windows, however, usually require more attention to detail. Some of the special considerations may include

preparation of the opening, panning and trim application, and special installation techniques. This chapter

addresses some of the more common requirements.

Figure 18-1 Specially Shaped Window Examples

18.1 Specially Shaped Window Construction

Specially shaped windows can be ordered on a custom basis in almost any shape and size. Circular, oval, gothic

style, elliptical, half round, quarter round, hexagon, octagon, triangular and any number of other shapes are

possible.

Framing for these windows is commonly fabricated and assembled by the manufacturer. In retrofit applications,

curved sections are usually custom made by the manufacturer using templates made in the field by the customer

during the field measuring process. Special shapes for new construction are typically made from templates based

on a set of architectural drawings.

Regardless of whether the windows are used for new construction or retrofit, there are limitations to what a

manufacturer can do when fabricating the window. For this reason, some windows will be fixed while others may

be operable.


18.2 Modifications to Standard Installation Instructions

The installation methods outlined in Chapters 15 and 16 for standard products are applicable to specially shaped

windows. However, the diagonal or curved components are generally the conditions that require special attention

(see Figure 18-2).

Figure 18-2 Modifications for Curved Windows

In cases where panning and trim are used, these components may also be custom fabricated to either wrap

around the window frame, or be preset in the opening.

Always consult with the manufacturer regarding the configuration of the opening and the plans for installation.

Manufacturers can assist in designing the panning and trim configuration to allow for proper installation.

As an example, a window with an arched top may be easier and more economical to manufacturer with the jambs

running through as opposed to stopping at the spring line (see Figure 18-3). The manufacturer can help make this

determination based on information gathered from the field. Always place information supplied by the

manufacturer or concerning the framing on the field measurement sheet or exact size form.

Figure 18-3 Determining Fabrication Requirements


Because of the nature and complexity of curved shapes, panning and trim will usually require a little extra care.

Depending on the construction tolerances of the existing building, curved openings are typically not exact and not

symmetrical; therefore, more attention to detail will be required when trimming and fitting the panning into the

opening.

Regardless of the type or shape of window, the installation methods for the anchors, attachment clips, and trim

will usually remain the same. Any special conditions requiring custom applications will typically be depicted on the

project shop drawings. If the shop drawings do not depict a condition evident on the project, consult the

manufacturer for further instructions.

18.3 Allowing for Additional Attachment Where Needed

Probably the most important thing to consider when installing a window in a specially shaped opening is to make

sure that structural support is provided. All window openings shall provide adequate anchorage around the entire

perimeter.

Although it may not be the installer's responsibility to build the opening, the installer should be able to recognize

when additional support/attachment is needed, and make a determination as to the proper means of anchorage.

In arched or circle top applications, trim is commonly provided on the interior for anchorage (see Figure 18-4).

Without the trim, the attachment of the new window frame to the building condition would pose some problems.

Figure 18-4 Attachment of Windows in Specially Shaped Openings

Specially shaped windows and glass doors may require fastener spacing which deviates from the manufacturer’s

typical fastener spacing for more standard products. If this information is not included on the project shop

drawings, consult the manufacturer for fastener locations.

18.4 Proper Shimming Techniques

Another important consideration when installing specially shaped windows is the shimming techniques used.

Curved windows and diagonal windows always present special problems, as shims cannot always be placed

along the entire length. It is important to shim the windows within the opening in such a way as to distribute the

load properly. Never place shims where all of the weight of the window frame will be applied over one point.


The examples shown (see Figure 18-5) indicated shimming methods used to help distribute the weight of the

frame to more than one point. This procedure is common to all windows that are made with curved or sloping sill

conditions.

Figure 18-5 Shimming for Specially Windows

Always follow the manufacturer's shop drawings and instructions, and remember:

• Shims placed on the diagonal may cause the window to shift. Place shims at the sill and at both opposing

jambs to prevent shifting (see Figure 18-5).

• Never place a shim where a point load will be applied at the tip or mitered end of a product. Move the shim to

where a larger bearing-surface area can support the weight of the window.

• Place shims at fastener locations, using the fastener to penetrate and hold the shim in position. Use caution

when applying shims. Do not distort the frame or cause it to rotate.

See Chapter 13, Section 13.2, for details on shimming.

18.5 Windows With Eyebrows

Windows involving eyebrows generally require the addition of a fixed panel along the head (see Figure 18-6). This

will depend on whether the intent is to replicate the existing window or not. In most cases, the window being

reinstalled into the existing opening will replicate the old window, therefore special design and installation

techniques will be required.


Figure 18-6 Window with Eyebrows

In retrofit applications, the eyebrow portion of the frame will be made up of the same contoured panning shape

used at the jamb. A panel (usually backed up by insulation) will run from the top of the rectangular portion of the

window frame to the head or curved section. Typically, the manufacturer will fabricate the window, and apply the

panel and panning based on a set of field measurements and templates taken during the field measurement

process.

The installation process will involve removing the eyebrow portion of the existing frame prior to installation of the

new window. Once the existing materials are removed, the installation process may begin involving pre-fitting the

window into place and trimming to ensure a good fit.

After the window is set in place, the normal installation procedures outlined earlier will be applicable.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

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Table of Contents

19.1 Replacement Hinged and Sliding Glass Door Installation ......................................................................1

19.1.1 Door Installation without Accessories .................................................................................................2


19.1.3 Preparation of the Door Frame for Installation ....................................................................................5

19.1.4 Installation of the Door Assembly .......................................................................................................8

19.1.5 Use of Fasteners at Door Hinges ....................................................................................................11

19.1.6 Installation of Door Panels (For Sliding Glass Doors) .....................................................................12

19.1.7 Application of the Perimeter Seal ..........................................................................................................13

19.2 Checking Installation for Plumb, Level and Square ..............................................................................14

19.3 Finishing the Exterior ................................................................................................................................16

19.3.1 Allowance for Moisture Escape .........................................................................................................17

19.4 Finishing the Interior .................................................................................................................................17

19.4.1 Cavity Insulation ................................................................................................................................17

19.4.2 Apply Backer Rod (Interior) ...............................................................................................................17

19.4.3 Apply Sealant (Interior) .....................................................................................................................17

19.4.4 Application of Trim Covers ................................................................................................................17

19.4.5 Trim or Drywall Returns ....................................................................................................................18






19.0 Hinged And Sliding Glass Door Installation (Replacement)

The installation of replacement doors in commercial construction involves “jumping over” the existing frame. This

chapter contains guidelines for installing exterior hinged and sliding glass doors in replacement applications.

Although the installation process for hinged doors is similar to the process for sliding glass doors, there are some

minor variations. Where these differences occur, special precautions are noted. This chapter does not address the

installation of commercial storefronts and entrances.

19.1 Replacement Hinged and Sliding Glass Door Installation

Generally, unequal leg frame doors (see Figure 19-1a) or equal leg frame doors with applied adaptors (see Figure

19-1b) are used in commercial replacement applications. The installation process will vary depending on the type

of opening, which portions of the existing frame remain, and the use of accessories for installation. This chapter

only addresses the installation of doors over existing frames. For other door types, the use of subsills/receptors

and other installation practices, see Chapter 20.

Figure 19-1a Unequal Leg Aluminum Frame Door


Figure 19-1b Equal Leg Vinyl Frame with Applied Adaptor

19.1.1 Door Installation without Accessories

Unequal leg frame doors can be used in buildings that involve a "Surface Barrier System" or a “Membrane

Drainage System” (The importance of locating the WRB for sealant purposes is further explained in Chapter 8,

Section 8.1.3). The installation of this product type often depends on a primary sealant joint between the new door

frame (or flange) and the existing door frame, along with a secondary seal between the new door frame and the

existing building condition, for shedding water away from the building.

In the following sections, the use of the terms door, assembly, frame and unit can be used interchangeably.


Prior to installation, check each opening to verify conformance to the architectural drawings, specifications and the

design intent. After checking the opening:


1. Check the existing framing materials to determine what materials (if any) are to be removed and which

remain, ensuring the end product will match the design intent.

2. Verify the opening size to ensure a proper fit and sealant joint geometry. Check each opening to determine if

it is plumb, level and square.

3. Check the construction materials, verifying that they are structurally suitable for attachment of the door

assembly.


• If flashing is present, make sure that the attachment at the head will not penetrate the flashing (see Figure

19-2).

• If flashing is present, determine where the door will be positioned to ensure that the perimeter seal is

inboard of the flashing, so water drainage will occur outboard of the perimeter sealant joint.




Note: As an example, if the fasteners prescribed are self-drilling masonry anchors, and the condition is not

masonry but an existing steel frame, the fastener type will need to be changed for the application. Consult the

manufacturer for selection of the proper fastener.

6. Determine where the door will set in the opening, and verify that the conditions allow for a suitable sealant joint

(see Figure 19-3).

• Since the existing frame typically remains, the existing frame will dictate where the new door frame can be

placed within the opening.


• In some cases, the existing frame will be removed at the sill condition (see Figure 19-4) and a sealant joint

will be positioned between the new frame and the existing condition. In other cases, the existing door

frame will remain (see Figure 19-5), and a sealant joint will be applied between the new door frame and

the existing frame. Make a determination as to where the sealant joints will occur based on the conditions

for each particular job.



Figure 19-4 Sealant Joint with Existing Condition

Figure 19-5 Sealant Joint with Existing Frame

19.1.3 Preparation of the Door Frame for Installation

Once the opening has been inspected and is ready for door installation, the door assembly needs to be prepared.

This includes unpacking the door and making sure it’s ready for installation. Hinged door panels are typically pre-

hung on the frame, and may require extra manpower to properly and safely lift the units into position. Sliding glass

doors may need to be assembled in the field.


1. Apply corner gaskets, weather-stripping and back-seal as directed by the manufacturer.

2. Attachment of the door

A. If anchor clips are to be used for attachment of the door, it may be appropriate to install them prior to

door installation (see Figure 19-6a).


• Use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer to attach the anchor clips to the door assembly.

Figure 19-6 Application Anchor Clips

B. If anchor straps are to be used for attachment of the door frame, it may be appropriate to install straps

prior to door installation (see Figure 19-6b)


Figure 19-6b Application of Anchor Straps

3. If the frame requires the application of an extended flange, the manufacturer may require that it be applied

before installation (see Figure 19-7). Check the manufacturer's installation details for more information and

apply sealant as required to ensure a water tight joint.


Figure 19-7 Application of Extended Flange

It is recommended that door sills always be field checked for water penetration (see Chapter 7.5) prior to

installation, ensuring that the sill is water tight before the door is set and anchored into position.

4. Whenever possible, dry fit the door assembly into the opening to verify the fit. Make sure to allow for a sealant

joint around the entire perimeter. This will require that the installer determine the amount of shimming

necessary to allow for a consistent perimeter joint of adequate width.

5. Apply any other accessories like closure channels, perimeter caulk returns and/or reinforcement channels

around the perimeter of the door frame, and any hardware or stainless steel sill tracks as required on the

specific job.

19.1.4 Installation of the Door Assembly

Install the door assembly (the entire unit consisting of the pre-hung door leaf and frame for hinged doors, or just

the frame assembly for sliding glass doors) using the following steps:


condition prior to installation of the door assembly.

2. Set the door frame in place on top of the shims at the sill. Shims are to be located under any anchor clips, or

at fastener locations if they occur within the door frame (see Figure 19-8).


Figure 19-8 Installation of the Door Assembly

3. Center the door assembly within the opening, allowing for a consistent joint width around the entire perimeter.

4. Place a level on the door sill to verify that the sill is level. Adjust the shims as needed to ensure a level

condition.

5. Some trimming of the applied flange may be required to allow for a good fit. If trimming is necessary, remove

the door, make the modifications, and check the fit again (see Figure 19-9). If the applied flange is adjustable

(see Figure 19-10), adjustments may be possible both before and after the installation of the frame.

Figure 19-9 Modification of Flange for Fit


Figure 19-10 Adjustment of Flange for Fit

6. Once the door assembly is positioned in the opening, attach the frame to temporarily secure it in place. Apply

shims as needed at the head directly in line with the anchor clips. Attach the fasteners just tight enough to

secure the assembly in position, yet allowing for adjustment in the next step.

7. Check the head, sill and jambs with a level again to make sure the assembly is setting plumb, level and

square within the opening. Measure across the diagonals to determine if the door assembly is square. If the

assembly is not square, make adjustments until it is.

8. Add shims and fasteners as required at the remaining anchor points. Add anchors directly at the lock and

hinge locations (see Figures 19-11a and 19-11b), in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation

instructions. Be sure to fully block behind locking points and hinges to help carry any loads directly to the

condition.


Figure 19-11a Attachment at Hinge/Lock Locations

Figure 19-11b Attachment at Hinge Location (Vinyl Door)

9. Tighten up each fastener around the perimeter until you reach a plumb, level and square installation. Be

careful not to over tighten the fasteners in such a way that the frame is distorted.

19.1.5 Use of Fasteners at Door Hinges

1. For hinge doors with butt hinges, complete the installation using the following steps:

• Remove one screw from each of the hinges along the jamb side of the frame (see Figure 19-11).

• Apply a new screw of an appropriate length (as may be specified per code) through each hinge directly

into the existing frame. This will help transfer the weight of the door directly to the structure.


• Close the door and check the fit between the locking jamb and the door edge. Check the reveal around

the door perimeter. If the reveal is equal the fit is good. If not, adjust according to manufacturer’s

instructions.

2. For hinge doors with flag hinges, an appropriate screw needs to be secure the frame at each hinge location

19.1.6 Installation of Door Panels

(For Sliding Glass Doors)

After installation of the door assembly, the door panels (fixed or operable) can be installed.

1. Install sliding door panels starting with the outboard panel (generally the fixed panel). To install the panel, use

the following steps:

• Raise the panel up and rotate the top out slightly towards the exterior. Insert the top of the door panel into

the exterior track in the head (see Figure 19-12).

Note: The location of the operable panel(s) on sliding glass doors may be on the inboard or outboard side,

depending on the manufacturer. Always check the manufacturer's installation instructions for clarification and

alternate these steps accordingly.

Figure 19-12 Installing the Fixed Door Panel

• Rotate the bottom of the panel out toward the exterior, placing it over the exterior sill track. Lower the door

panel into position on the sill track.

• Shift the fixed panel over to the fixed jamb, but don’t attach it until after the operable panel has been

installed and all adjustments have been made. After the operable panel is installed in the next step, lock

the operable panel and then shift the fixed panel into place, checking the interlock for proper overlap. Re-

check the reveal between fixed panel and fixed jamb to make sure the door is square in opening and

proper overlaps are maintained.

3. Install the inboard panel (generally operable) using the following steps:


• Raise the panel up and position the panel off-center such that the operable interlocking rail clears the fixed

panel interlock.

• Insert the top of the door panel into the interior track at the head (see Figure 19-13). Rotate the bottom of

the panel out toward the fixed panel, and lower the panel into position setting the bottom on the sliding

door track.

Figure 19-13 Installing the Operable Door Panel

• Check the operable panel to ensure that it operates properly, and that the reveal is equal between the

operable door panel and frame. Turn adjustment screws on the roller assembly to adjust the height of the

panel following the manufacturer’s instructions.

• Apply any door stops, anti-lift devices and/or air stops that are provided to restrict door movement and air

flow.

• Once all panels are fully adjusted, the final attachment of the fixed sash to the frame can be completed.

• Attach the fixed panel using the retainer clips and screws provided by the manufacturer. After final

assembly, cover over the exposed clip with any remaining trim.


Once the door assembly is securely attached in position, the installation is ready for the perimeter sealant

application.

1. Apply the perimeter joint from the exterior side.


• Remove any loose debris and wipe any dirt or dust off from the condition and the door assembly.

3. Apply primer to the perimeter condition and to the door framing as recommended by the sealant manufacturer.

• Use only the primer recommended for the application



• Do not apply an excessive amount of primer.

4. Apply an appropriate size backer rod (or bond breaker for fillet joints) around the entire perimeter. Use a blunt

probe or roller to install the backer rod (see Figure 19-14).



•


5. Once the joint is ready, apply the perimeter sealant. Start at one corner and push the sealant into the joint.




6. Once the joint is sealed, tool the sealant joint to remove any remaining air pockets, promote good adhesion


7. Clean any excess sealant off the condition and the door frame. Double check the entire joint, making sure


8. After installation of the sealant joint, recheck the operation of the door panel to ensure proper operation and

contact with the weather stripping.


19.2 Checking Installation for

Plumb, Level and Square

Regardless of the installation practice used, all doors and accessories shall be installed plumb, level and square

within the opening. The following illustrations show how to check the door assembly to ensure it is properly

installed.

For All Door Types

1. Check the door assembly to ensure it is set plumb, level and square in the opening (see Figure 19-15 and 19-

16) using the following tips:

• Make sure the door sill is level and not bowed or uneven.

• Install shims behind the jamb 4" to 6" from the sill and header.

• Adjust shims until the frame is square (diagonal measurements are within tolerance, based the door size).


• Plumb the frame and check for true (not racked) by using strings stretched from each corner to the

opposing corner.

Note: If the strings just barely touch, the unit is not racked out of alignment. If the strings are touching, reverse the

strings to determine if the unit is racked.



For All Hinged Door

Open the operable panel(s) and remove any shipping spacers. Adjust the shims, and move the top of one or both

sides of the frame slightly in, out or horizontally, until the following conditions are achieved:

1. The top of each panel is parallel to the frame at the head (the margin is even across the top of the door).

• The operable panel(s) makes even contact with the weatherstripping.

• The jambs are within 1/16" of being straight.

• The door operates properly and it remains stationary in any open position.

2. Install lockset(s) if not already in place.


3. Verify that the jambs are shimmed properly as follows:

• On each side there should be at least three shims, with shims installed behind each hinge (when hinged at

the jamb).

• Place shims behind the jamb strike plate.

• On the top, install at least three shims (within 4" to 6" of each corner, and at the center mullion position),

except when directed not to do so by the manufacturer.

4. Secure the shims at hinge and strike locations with a long screw that penetrates the structural framing.

• One hole in each hinge may have been left open for this step. If not, remove one standard screw and

install a screw of an appropriate length (sometimes dictated by code) through the hole in the hinge,

directly into the jamb condition.

• When installing the long screws, take care not to pull the frame out of square.

5. For units with multiple jamb-hinged panels, also shim and secure hinges on the inactive side.

6. Close the panel(s). Then re-check the margins between the panel(s) and the jamb, and between the panels of

a two-panel unit. Adjust the shims as needed to maintain margins that are equal from top to bottom.

• Make sure panels remain aligned (tops even with each other).

On Two-Panel Hinged Glass Doors

Make sure the following is achieved:

1. Both panels are in the same plane.

2. The top corners of the panel locking stiles are aligned and flush with each other, and the margin between

locking stiles is even from top to bottom.

For Sliding Glass Doors

Open the operable panel and check the fit, adjusting the rollers as needed, until the following is achieved:

1. Check the interlock to determine if the overlap is the same from top to bottom.

• Open each operable sash until it just clears the jamb, and check the gap. It will be even along the vertical

edge of the interlock if the door panel is square.

• If the door panel is not square, remove the panel to reduce the weight, and adjust the rollers prior to

placing the panel back into the door frame. Continue to check and adjust until the panel is square in the

frame.

• Make sure operable sliders are fully blocked and supported at the locking points so that if the sash is


2. Operate the door panel and check for a smooth operation. If the door does not move freely, check the sill

track for debris, and clean as needed.




1. Select a backer rod with a diameter approximately 30% larger than the nominal width of the joint. (Rule of

thumb: rod diameter at least 1/8" greater than joint width.)

2. Joint primer shall not be applied to the backer rod.


3. Backer rod should be inserted into the joint using a blunt probe or roller. Do not puncture, fold or crease the

backer rod as that could cause emission of gas and bubbling of the sealant.

4. Push the sealant into the joint over backer rod in a continuous manner.

5. Tool the sealant bead so that it is an even, unbroken seal, sufficient to fill the gap between the door unit and

the rough opening. Always follow manufacturer's instructions. (For detailed information on sealants, see

Chapter 13, Section 13.5.)

Remember, there are five basic steps for proper joint preparation and sealant application for doors:



3. PACK – Install backer rod or bond breaker as required.



configuration and fully contacts the joint walls.


Most doors are manufactured with weep holes to allow moisture to escape. Never cover these weep holes with

sealant, paint or any other obstructive material. Remove any construction debris from the drainage path to ensure

proper drainage.



Whenever possible, place insulation in the cavity between the new door assembly/receptor and the building

components.

1. Use fiber insulation (fiberglass batt insulation) or low pressure expanding foam (see Chapter 13, Section

13.6.4). Follow the manufacturer's guidelines.




Like the exterior, place backer rod over cavity insulation on the interior side of the door to control sealant width and

depth.


On the interior of the door where an exposed joint occurs (or where required per the contract drawings), place

sealant over the backer rod in a continuous manner. The sealant bead shall be even, unbroken, and fill the gap

between the door unit and the rough opening. For detailed information on sealants, see Chapter 13, Section 13.5.

19.4.4 Application of Trim Covers

Once any insulation and/or sealant have been applied, the finished trim covers can be snapped over the trim clips

that were used to anchor the door in place. Check the manufacturer's instructions to determine which trim cover

runs through to ensure the correct cut size and fit.




interior-most surface of the window and the building condition. This air must be controlled in order to help reduce

air infiltration and energy consumption.


drywall and the door assembly becomes a cosmetic joint.


door assembly (see Figure 19-17). This may or may not be a part of the installer's contract.


1. The responsible party should coordinate the installation of the drywall and the J-channel when abutting against

the door frame/accessory. Do not attach J-channels to the door assembly or receptor unless otherwise

approved by the door manufacturer.

2. It is preferable that a 1/4” wide joint be left to allow for movement of the door assembly due to wind load and/or

live load movement. If a properly sized joint is not left, cracking of the drywall may occur, or the sealant may

tear, requiring future maintenance.

3. If the door assembly is installed toward the outside of the wall assembly, a drywall J-channel return shall be

installed in the recess, and the joint between the face of the door frame and the drywall J-channel shall be

sealed.


Notes:__________________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________________________

_________________________________________________


Table of Contents

20.1 Hinged and Sliding Glass Door Installation .........................................................................................1

20.1.1 Door Installation without Receptor System .........................................................................................2


20.1.3 Preparation of the Door Frame for Installation ....................................................................................5

20.1.4 Installation of the Door Assembly .......................................................................................................8

20.1.5 Use of Fasteners at Door Hinges ....................................................................................................11

20.1.6 Installation of Door Panels (for Sliding Glass Doors) .......................................................................11

20.1.7 Application of the Perimeter Seal ......................................................................................................13

20.2 Door Installations With A Receptor System ......................................................................................14

20.2.1 Preparation of the Receptor System Prior to Door Installation .........................................................14

20.2.2 Installation of the Receptor System Prior to Door Installation ...........................................................18

20.2.3 Application of the Perimeter Seal When Using Receptor Systems ..................................................24

20.2.4 Preparation of the Door Assembly for Installation with Receptor Systems .......................................25

20.2.5 Installation of the Door Assembly in Openings with Receptor Systems ...........................................26

20.3 Multiple Door Installations With Receptor Systems ..........................................................................29

20.3.1 Preparation of the Receptor System for Multiple Door Applications in a Single Opening .................29

20.3.2 Installation of Receptor Systems in Multiple Door Applications ........................................................30

20.3.3 Installation of Doors in Multiple Door Applications ............................................................................31

20.3.3.1 Installation of Independent Structural Mullions .................................................................................31

20.4 Installation of Door Assembly with Transom Panels Above .............................................................37






20.4.1 Horizontal Stack Mullions Installed Prior to Door Installation ............................................................37

20.4.2 Horizontal Stack Mullions Installed After Door Installation ................................................................39

20.5 Checking Installation for Plumb, Level and Square ..........................................................................40

20.6 Finishing the Exterior ........................................................................................................................42

20.6.1 Allowance for Moisture Escape .........................................................................................................43

20.7 Finishing the Interior .........................................................................................................................43

20.7.1 Cavity Insulation ................................................................................................................................43

20.7.2 Apply Backer Rod (Interior) ...............................................................................................................43

20.7.3 Apply Sealant (Interior) .....................................................................................................................43

20.7.4 Trim or Drywall Returns ....................................................................................................................43


20.0 Hinged and Sliding Glass Door Installation (New Construction)

This chapter contains basic guidelines for installing equal leg frame exterior hinged and sliding glass doors in new

construction. Although the installation process for hinged and sliding glass doors is very similar, there are some

minor variations for each. Where these differences occur, special precautions are noted. This chapter does not

address the installation of commercial storefront and entrances.

20.1 Hinged and Sliding Glass Door Installation

Generally, equal leg frame doors (see Figures 20-1a and 20-1b) are the only classification of frame types used in

both metal and vinyl commercial new construction. The installation process will vary depending on the type of

opening and the use of accessories for installation. This chapter covers door frames that are shipped assembled,

frames that are assembled in the field, and sidelites and transoms that are mulled together in the field.

Figure 20-1a Equal Leg Frame Door


Figure 20-1b Equal Leg Frame Vinyl Door

20.1.1 Door Installation without Receptor System

Equal leg frame doors can be used in buildings that involve a "Surface Barrier System" or a “Membrane Drainage

System” (see Chapter 8, Section 8.1.3). Regardless, the installation of this product type depends on a sealant joint

between the door (or receptor) and the exterior building surface, for shedding water away from the building.

For equal leg frame installations without the use of receptor systems, use the installation procedures in Section

20.1. When installing equal leg frame doors in applications that require receptors and subsills, follow the

installation practices outlined in Section 20.2.

In the following sections, the use of the terms door, assembly, frame and unit can be used interchangeably.


Prior to installation, check each opening to verify conformance to the architectural drawings, specifications and the

design intent. After checking the opening:



2. Check the construction materials, verifying that they are structurally suitable for attachment of the door

assembly.


• If flashing is present, make sure that the attachment at the head will not penetrate the flashing (see Figure

20-2).



• If flashing is present, determine where the door will be positioned to ensure that the perimeter seal is

inboard of the flashing so water drainage will occur outboard of the perimeter sealant joint.

4. Make sure that the attachment fasteners specified for the condition will work as intended and that the



masonry but steel stud, the fastener type will need to be changed for the application. Consult the fastener

manufacturer for selection of the proper fastener.

5. Determine where the door will set in the opening and verify that the conditions allow for a suitable sealant joint

(see Figure 20-3).



• Some conditions, such as brick veneer walls, will incorporate an air space or cavity which will dictate

where the frame will be placed to ensure proper joint back up.

• In some cases, mortar is used at the sill as a setting bed in lieu of a sealant bead (see Figure 20-4a and

20-4b). Check the opening to determine whether the sill condition is level and how much mortar needs to

be applied under the door to prepare it for installation. When setting the door assembly in mortar, make

sure to first apply a protective coating of bituminous paint (and/or other suitable material) to the underside

of the sill extrusion.

Note: Setting a door in a bed of mortar is only recommended in recessed sill conditions.

Figure 20-4a Recessed Sill Condition in Aluminum


Figure 20-4b Recessed Sill Condition in Vinyl

• Depending on the location of the frame relative to the interior conditions, the location of the frame may

require interior trim and/or jamb extensions to finish off the interior.

20.1.3 Preparation of the Door Frame for Installation

Once the opening has been inspected and is ready for door installation, the door assembly needs to be prepared.

This includes unpacking the door and making sure it’s ready for installation. Hinged door panels are typically pre-

hung on the frame and may require extra manpower to properly and safely lift the units into position. Sliding glass

doors may need to be assembled in the field.

1. Apply corner gaskets, fasteners, weatherstripping and back-seal as directed by the manufacturer.

2. If anchor clips or straps are to be used for attachment of the door, it may be appropriate to attach them to the

door prior to installation (see Figure 20-5a and 20-5b).


• Use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer to attach the anchor clips to the door assembly.


Figure 20-5a Attachment of Anchor Clips to Aluminum Frame

Figure 20-5b Attachment of Anchor Straps to Vinyl Frame

3. Starter sills may also be required under the door to help facilitate anchorage (see Figure 20-6a and 20-6b).

Check the project shop drawings to determine if starter sills are required. Also, refer to Section 20.2 for the

installation of doors with accessories.


Figure 20-6a Application of Starter Sill

Figure 20-6b Application of Starter Sill


4. It is recommended that door sills and subsills always be field checked for water penetration (see Chapter 7.5)

prior to sill installation, ensuring that the sill is water tight before the door is set and anchored into position.

5. Whenever possible, dry fit the door assembly into the opening to verify the fit. Make sure to allow for a sealant

joint around the entire perimeter. This will require that the installer determine the amount of shimming

necessary to allow for a consistent perimeter joint of adequate width.

6. Apply any other accessories like closure channels, perimeter caulk sealant returns, and/or reinforcement

channels around the perimeter of the door frame, and any hardware or stainless steel sill tracks as required on

the specific job.

7. If mortar is used to level the door frame, apply the mortar just prior to installing the frame.

• Make sure to completely fill the void (see Figure 20-7).

Figure 20-7 Bed of Mortar in Recessed Sill Condition

• When setting the door assembly in mortar, make sure to first apply a coating of bituminous paint to the

underside of the sill extrusion.

• Check the height of the sill in the mortar bed to determine it is at the correct height for the door installation

and that it is level.

20.1.4 Installation of the Door Assembly

Install the door assembly (the entire unit consisting of the pre-hung door leaf and frame for hinged doors, or just

the frame assembly for sliding glass doors) using the following steps:


condition prior to installation of the door assembly.

2. Set the door frame in place on top of the shims at the sill. Shims are to be located under any anchor clips, or

at fastener locations if they occur within the door frame (see Figure 20-8).


Figure 20-8 Installation of the Door Assembly

3. When setting the door assembly directly into a bed of mortar, shims will not be used. In this case, apply

pressure to the sill extrusion to seat the assembly. Check the height of the sill in the mortar bed to determine it

is at the correct height for the door installation and that it is level.

4. Center the door assembly within the opening, allowing for a consistent joint width around the entire perimeter.

5. Place a level on the door sill to verify that the sill is level. Adjust the shims as needed to ensure a level

condition.

6. Once the door assembly is positioned in the opening, attach the frame to temporarily secure it in place. Apply

shims as needed at the head directly in line with the anchor clips. Attach the fasteners just tight enough to

secure the assembly in position, yet allow for adjustment in the next step.

7. Check the head, sill and jambs with a level again to make sure the assembly is setting plumb, level and

square within the opening. Measure across the diagonals to determine if the door assembly is square. If the

assembly is not square, make adjustments until it is.

8. Add shims and fasteners as required at the remaining anchor points. Add anchors directly at the lock and

hinge locations (see Figure 20-9a and 20-9b), according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Be

sure to fully block behind locking points and hinges to help carry any loads directly to the condition.


Figure 20-9a Attachment at Hinge/Lock Locations


Figure 20-9b Attachment at Hinge/Lock Locations

9. Tighten up each fastener around the perimeter until you reach a plumb, level and square installation. Be

careful not to over tighten the fasteners in such a way that you distort the frame.

20.1.5 Use of Fasteners at Door Hinges

1. For hinge doors with butt hinges, complete the installation using the following steps:

• Remove one screw from each of the hinges along the jamb side of the frame (see Figure 20-9).

• Apply a new screw of an appropriate length (as may be specified per code) through each hinge directly

into the building condition. This will help transfer the weight of the door directly to the structure.

• Close the door and check the fit between the locking jamb and the door edge. Check the reveal around

the door perimeter. If the reveal is equal, the fit is good; if not, adjust attachment screws as needed.

20.1.6 Installation of Door Panels

(for Sliding Glass Doors)

After installation of the door assembly, the door panels (fixed or operable) can be installed.

1. Install sliding door panels starting with the outboard panel (generally, the fixed panel). To install the panel, use

the following steps:


• Raise the panel up and rotate the top out slightly towards the exterior. Insert the top of the door panel into

the exterior track in the head (see Figure 20-10).

Note: The location of the operable panel(s) on sliding glass doors may be on the inboard or outboard side

depending on the manufacturer. Always check the manufacturer's installation instructions for clarification and

alternate these steps accordingly.

Figure 20-10 Installing the Fixed Door Panel

• Rotate the bottom of the panel out toward the exterior, placing it over the exterior sill track. Lower the door

panel into position on the sill track.

• Shift the fixed panel over to the fixed jamb but don’t attach until after the operable panel has been installed

and all adjustments have been made. After the operable panel is installed in the next step, lock the

operable panel and then shift the fixed panel into place checking the interlock for proper overlap. Re-

check the reveal between fixed panel and fixed jamb to make sure door is square in opening and proper

overlaps are maintained.

2. Install the inboard panel (generally operable) using the following steps:

• Raise the panel up and position the panel off-center such that the operable interlocking rail clears the fixed

panel interlock.

• Insert the top of the door panel into the interior track at the head (see Figure 20-11). Rotate the bottom of

the panel out toward the fixed panel, and lower the panel into position, setting the bottom on the sliding

door track.


Figure 20-11 Installing the Operable Door Panel

• Check the operable panel to ensure that it operates properly, and that the reveal is equal between the

operable door panel and frame. Turn adjustment screws on the roller assembly to adjust the height of the

panel following the manufacturer’s instructions.

• Apply any door stops, anti-lift devices and/or air stops that are provided to restrict door movement and air

flow.

• Once all panels are fully adjusted, the final attachment of the fixed sash to the frame can be completed.

• Attach the fixed panel using the retainer clips and screws provided by the manufacturer. After final

assembly, cover over the exposed clip with any remaining trim.


Once the door assembly is securely attached in position, the installation is ready for the perimeter sealant

application.

1. Apply Seal the perimeter joint from the exterior side working from the balcony or floor.


• Remove any loose debris and wipe any dirt or dust off from the condition and the door assembly.

3. Apply primer to the perimeter condition and to the door framing as recommended by the sealant manufacturer.





backer rod (see Figure 20-12).





5. Once the joint is ready, apply the a compatible perimeter sealant. Start at one corner and push the sealant into

the joint.

• Pushing, as opposed to pulling the sealant ensures that the joint is filled with sealant, and that the amount




and create a smooth sealant joint of the proper depth and geometry.

7. Clean any excess sealant off the condition and the door frame. Double check the entire joint, making sure


8. After installation of the sealant joint, recheck the operation of the door panel to ensure proper operation and

contact with the weather stripping.


20.2 Door Installations With A Receptor System

The installation of equal leg frame doors often incorporates to the use of receptors and subsills. The methods

outlined in the following sections describe the installation of receptors and sub sills prior to the installation of the

door assembly.

20.2.1 Preparation of the Receptor System Prior to Door Installation

Prior to installation of the door assembly, check each opening to verify conformance to the architectural drawings,

specifications and the design intent. The installer shall:



2. Check the construction materials, verifying that they are structurally suitable for attachment.


• If flashing is present, make sure that the attachment of the receptor at the head will not penetrate the

flashing.


• If flashing is present, determine where the receptor will be positioned to ensure that the perimeter seal is

inboard of the flashing so water drainage will occur outboard the perimeter joint at the head receptor (see

Figure 20-13).



conditions are suitable for attachment. Manufacturers may supply slots in their framing which are designed to

be structurally adequate for the fastener and anchor loads expected. Do not slot the framing or enlarge holes

or slots provided by the manufacturer without consulting the manufacturer or a licensed professional engineer.



5. Distribute the receptor system to the corresponding openings. Receptor systems are often shipped in bundles

and may be marked to correspond with the opening.

6. Check the receptor/subsill to determine if any field assembly or fabrication is required. Some accessories will

require field cutting, drilling and the application of end dams, gaskets, anchor clips, etc.

• If cutting is required, check the project shop drawings to ensure a proper fit. As an example, if subsills are

used, the cut size may be dictated by the shop drawings so the door assembly can be installed without

interference.

• When cutting subsills to length, the installer will be required to apply the end dams after any gaskets have

been applied as indicated in step #7 (see Figure 20-14). In cases where the subsill is cut to length, the end

dams and gaskets may already be applied.


Figure 20-14 Application of End Dams

• When applying end dams, make sure to clean off the ends of both the subsill and the end dam with

appropriate solvent to ensure a good seal. After applying solvent, immediately dry off the material; do not

allow the solvent to air dry on the material.

Note: It is critical that this step not be overlooked as oil, grease and dirt deposited during the manufacturing

process can have a detrimental effect on the adhesion capability of the sealant.

• Apply and seal the end dams as directed by the manufacturer. Be sure to seal the joint between the end

dam and the subsill, and then tool the sealant to promote good adhesion and remove air bubbles.

7. Check the receptors and subsill for grooves, which may require the installation of gaskets (see Figure 20-15).

If required, use the following steps before applying end dams:

• Prior to installing the gaskets, remove the material from the roll and allow it to relax. Don't stretch the

gaskets.

• Cut the gasket long enough to allow for crowd-in, or compress it so that if it shrinks, it won't be too short.

(Example: Some gaskets are cut 1/4” per foot longer than the extrusion length.) Check with the gasket

and/or window manufacturer to determine cutting requirements.


Figure 20-15 Application of Gaskets

8. Drill the receptor system as indicated on the shop drawings. Make sure to drill the hole sizes and locations

according to the drawings and/or any job calculations.


contraction.



Note: When applying fasteners in an expansion slot, it is generally recommended that the fastener be positioned

in the center of the slot (see Figure 20-16). Check the shop drawings for specific instructions.

Figure 20-16 Attachment of Fasteners through Slots

9. If anchor clips are to be applied to the receptor or subsill, attach them now in accordance with the

manufacturer's instructions (see Figure 20-17). Always use the fasteners specified by the manufacturer.


Figure 20-7 Attach Anchor Clips

10. Determine where the receptor system will set in the opening and verify that the conditions allow for a suitable

sealant joint.

• Some conditions, such as brick veneer walls, will incorporate an air space or cavity, which will dictate

where the receptor system will be placed to ensure the proper sealant joint back up.

• Depending on the location of the receptor system relative to the interior conditions, interior trim and/or

jamb extensions may be required to finish off the interior.

20.2.2 Installation of the Receptor System Prior to Door Installation

When the opening has been inspected and the receptor system has been properly prepared in accordance with

Section 20.2.1, the installation of the receptor system may begin. In some cases, the subsill will be installed first,

followed by the head and jamb receptor. In other cases, the head and jamb receptor will be installed first, followed

by the subsill.

The job conditions and the design of the subsill/receptor (whether the jamb receptor is designed to be the

termination point for the subsill, or whether the subsill is designed to be the termination point for the jamb receptor)

will be the determining factors in how the junction is accomplished. Regardless of the design for the specific job

condition, the following steps can be altered in sequence to allow for these variations.

1. Start by placing a level at the sill condition. Determine if the sill is level and how much shimming will be

necessary to allow for the proper joint size.

• Check the shop drawings to determine the amount of shimming necessary to allow for normal field

tolerances, and the proper overlap between the door assembly and the receptor.

• Depending on the live load and dead load design criteria for the project, the amount of overlap between

the receptor and the door assembly is critical.


• A story pole will generally be helpful to determine if enough clearance will remain to allow for the

installation of the receptor and the door assembly (see Figure 20-18).

Figure 20-18 Checking the Opening for Proper Fit

• If the minimum clearance shown on the shop drawings is not enough to allow for proper installation of the

receptor and door assembly, some adjustment in the shim height may be necessary.

2. Set and shim the subsill within the opening. Place a level in the subsill and check to ensure it is level. Adjust

the shims as needed to create a level condition.

Note: For water performance and drainage, it is critical that all subsills be set level because the application of the

receptor and the door frame will follow. If the subsill is not set level, there is a good chance that the receptors and

the door will not be set level.

3. Attach the subsill into position. Make sure to set the subsill straight within the opening. Attach through the

subsill or through anchor clips according to the job specific application.

4. If applying fasteners through the subsill:

• Make sure to clean the subsill and fastener head/washers/nut prior to the application of the a compatible

sealant in order to promote good contact and adhesion.

• Be sure to first pump sealant into the hole and on top of the surface the fastener will penetrate.

• Next, apply the fastener, any washers and the nut as required.

• Finally, seal over the fastener/nut and washer assembly, making sure to fully encapsulate the assembly.

• Once the joint is sealed, tool the sealant joint to remove any remaining air pockets, promote good

adhesion and create a smooth sealant joint of the proper depth and geometry.

5. Continue to make adjustments as required, re-checking and verifying that the minimum/maximum overlap

requirements between the door assembly and the receptor system are maintained (see Figure 20-18).


6. Once the subsill is set, apply a sealant bead between the end dam and the building condition. It is often

necessary to apply a backer rod into the joint to control the amount of sealant used (see Figure 20-19). If the

jamb receptor is going to be the termination point for the subsill, skip to Steps #8 & #9, then come back to

Step #7.

Figure 20-19 Sealing the Subsill End Dam to the Jamb Condition

7. Tool the sealant against the jamb condition, creating a wash that will allow any residual water that gets behind

the receptor to drain into the subsill.

• If the subsill is set after the jamb receptor, seal the joint between the end cap and the jamb receptor,

creating a wash to divert water into the subsill (see Figure 20-20).

Figure 20-20 Sealing the Subsill End Dam to the Jamb Receptor


8. After installation of the subsill, the head receptor can be installed. Install the head receptor directly in line with

the subsill.

• First, check the specific type of receptor to determine if a foam block or back-up plate will be required to

support the sealant joint at the ends of the receptor where the perimeter joint will occur (see Figure 20-21).

Figure 20-21 Plugging the Ends of the Receptor

• If a foam block is used, install it in place and seal over the ends to essentially create an end plug.

• If a back-up plate is used, it may be applied prior to installation of the head receptor, or it may be applied

after the head and jamb receptors are in place. Check the manufacturer's instructions for specific details.

• Use a laser or level to line up the head receptor with the subsill below.

• Check the drawings to understand the relationship between where the door head will set within the

receptor, and where the door sill will set within the subsill. The proper relationship will only occur when the

door assembly is plumb within the opening after the accessories are installed (see Figure 20-22).


Figure 20-22 Understanding the Relationship between the Head/Jamb Receptors and Subsill

• Shim and attach the head receptor to the head condition using the fasteners specified for the condition.

• Make sure to shim the head receptor so that it is level both along its length and from front to back (not

rolled) within the opening.

• The installer is encouraged to use a story pole or a piece of the jamb receptor to line up the head with the

sill, and to determine the exact height location of the head receptor.

• Fasten the head receptor in place by tightening the fasteners snug, yet still allowing for further adjustment

as needed.

• Make sure the fasteners at the head will not interfere with the installation of the door assembly.

9. Once the head receptor and subsill are in place, the jamb receptors can be installed. If the previous steps

were used, the installation of the jamb receptors will be relatively easy.

• The jamb receptor should easily fit between the bottom outside leg of the head receptor and the top

outside surface of the subsill, but will depend on the specific application (see Figure 20-23).


Figure 20-23 Installation of Jamb Receptor

• In cases where extreme movement is expected, a sealant joint may be required between the head and

jamb receptors. In this case, use a back-up splice plate with bond breaker applied to the exterior face to

bridge the gap and back up the joint (see Figure 20-24).

Figure 20-24 Splice between Jamb and Head Receptors at Moving Joints

• Set the jamb receptor within the opening. Shim and fasten with the appropriate fasteners. Add blocking

behind the receptor at locking points and at hinge points on swing and sliding glass doors. This support

blocking may also be needed at the head condition directly above the meeting rail of a sliding glass door.

• Re-check the opening to verify that the door will set into a plumb, level and square condition. If

adjustments are needed, make them now.


10. Insert splice sleeve, bond breaker tape and/or silicone splice sheet as required for joint backup at head/jamb

receptor intersection. Back seal all joints between the head receptor and the jamb receptor, and the jamb

receptor to the subsill. Tool the sealant to ensure good contact and adhesion.

11. Prior to door installation, check the subsill for any debris. Clean out any debris that will block the weep holes

or keep the subsill from draining.

• A method of field checking the water integrity of the subsill can be used by the installer to ensure it is

water tight. This simple field test method will reduce the expensive call backs associated with water

penetration at the subsill.

- Use a suitable tape to cover over the weep holes.

- Fill the subsill with water and mark the high water point.

- Leave the water in the subsill for at least fifteen minutes; if no water leakage is evident, the subsill is

considered water tight.

- If leakage occurs, pinpoint the place of escape, drain the water from the subsill, then reseal the point

of leakage when the conditions are dry.

- If leakage was detected after corrective actions, repeat the test to be sure the problem has been

corrected.

• After checking the subsill for water penetration, make sure to remove the tape so the subsill can drain

freely later.

20.2.3 Application of the Perimeter Seal When Using Receptor Systems

Once the receptor system is securely attached in position, the installation is ready for the perimeter sealant

application.


• Remove any loose debris and wipe any dirt or dust off from the condition and the perimeter accessories.

2. Apply primer to the perimeter condition and to the accessories as recommended by the sealant manufacturer.





backer rod.



4. Once the joint is ready, apply the perimeter sealant. Start at one corner and push the sealant into the joint (see

Figure 20-25).





Figure 20-25 Perimeter Seal Application



6. Clean any excess sealant off the condition and the accessories. Double check the entire joint, making sure


20.2.4 Preparation of the Door Assembly for Installation with Receptor Systems

Once the accessories have been installed and sealed to the opening, the installer can prepare for door installation.

See Section 20.1.3 for instructions relating to the preparation of the door for installation.

Some projects will require jamb reinforcement channels in the jambs of the door frames for added strength. Check

the requirements for the job and apply reinforcement channels as directed, making sure they are the right size and

in the right location (see Figure 20-26).

Figure 20-26 Application of Reinforcement Channel


Whenever possible, dry fit the door into the opening to verify the fit. Check the amount of overlap between the

head and jamb receptor and the door frame, making sure it is consistent and according to the design intent. If the

fit is good, the installer can remove the door and proceed with the following steps for door installation.

20.2.5 Installation of the Door Assembly in Openings with Receptor Systems

Install the door assembly using the following steps:

1. After checking the fit and making sure the conditions are level, the installer can prepare for installation of the

door.

• In some cases, the installation will require a bead of sealant applied to the upturned leg of the subsill.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

• In other cases, a gasket is used as the air/water seal between the subsill and the door assembly.

Depending on the design of the subsill, this gasket was either previously applied in the groove, or will be

applied after door installation.

2. The installer may also be required to apply a bead of sealant to the head/jamb receptor prior to the installation

of the door. Check the drawings to determine the design intent, and apply the bead as directed (see Figure 20-

27).

Figure 20-27 Sealing the Receptor or Subsill

3. The opening is now ready for the door assembly installation. Position the door as close to the opening as

possible. Lift the door assembly and rotate the bottom out while holding the head inboard.

4. Before setting the door in place, try to get the door centered in the opening as much as possible.

• This is especially critical if sealant was applied at the subsill or receptor, to avoid scraping the sealant off

when moving the door from side to side.

5. Set the door assembly in place, positioning the bottom of the door on top of the subsill.


• When setting the door assembly in place, use caution that the bottom edge of the frame is not rubbed

against the exterior gasket at the jambs or head receptor. Doing so may pull the gasket out of the gasket

pocket (see Figure 20-28).

Figure 20-28 Verify Gasket is Secure

6. Rotate the head up and push it out toward the exterior until it hits the head receptor.

7. Check the location of the door, making sure it is centered in the opening, allowing for a consistent overlap

around the entire perimeter.

• Double check the gasket, making sure the gasket has stayed in place and has not dropped down or

become disconnected.

• If the gasket has become dislodged, remove the door and reinsert the gasket. The gasket will not function

if it is not installed properly.

8. Place a level on the door sill to verify that the sill is level. If the door is not level, remove it and determine why,

then make adjustments as required and reseal the receptor and subsill again prior to reinstallation.

9. Typically, the door assembly is not anchored to the receptor or subsill. This allows the door to float within the

opening, allowing for building movement and product expansion.

• When working with multiple doors within a single opening, follow the additional instructions in Section

20.3.

• When doors are required to be attached, it is necessary to apply fully supported blocking and anchors at

the locking points and through each hinge point. (See Figure 20-29 and refer to Sections 20.1.5 and

20.1.6 for instructions.) Always check the manufacturer's shop drawings for specific requirements relative

to the job application.


Figure 20-29 Attachment at Hinge and Lock Points

10. Once the door assembly is positioned in the opening, temporary receptor clips can be applied to hold the

door in place. Do not leave temporary clips in place, as they are not designed to support the full load.

11. If temporary receptor clips are not used, or if it is time to complete the installation, apply the finished

receptor clips as follows:

• Check the jamb receptor to subsill intersection. Prior to applying the jamb receptor clip, apply a bead of

sealant at the space between the edge of the door assembly and the receptor (see Figure 20-30).

Figure 20-30 Application of Sealant at Receptor to Subsill Intersection

• There will not be a back-up surface for this sealant joint, but a blind seal (applied to the receptor clip

later) will allow the two seals to integrate together.

• Make sure to install gaskets into the grooves as required. Do not cut the gasket short; cut it long enough

to require crowd-in, or compression of, the excess so that if shrinkage occurs later, there will still be


enough to cover the entire length. (Example: Some gaskets are cut 1/4” extra per foot of extrusion

length.) Consult with the gasket supplier and/or manufacturer for suggested cutting formula.

12. Apply a heavy bed of sealant to the back of the receptor clip at the sill condition (see Figure 20-30). After

applying the sealant, apply the receptor clip into position. Tool any excess sealant that appears on the

finished surface.

13. For sliding glass doors, once the door assembly is installed, follow the procedures for installing the door

panels according to Section 20.1.6. Check the installed product to ensure that it operates properly, and that

the reveal is equal between the door panel and frame.

20.3 Multiple Door Installations With Receptor Systems

The installation of multiple doors in a single opening is very similar to the instructions outlined in Section 20.2;

however, additional preparations and steps will be necessary.

There are two significant differences when installing multiple doors in single openings using receptor systems.

First is the preparation and installation of the receptors/subsills, which will often be spliced together in a single

opening. The second difference is the use of mullions and the need to properly anchor the mullions between the

units to handle the structural load.

20.3.1 Preparation of the Receptor System for Multiple Door Applications in a Single Opening

When installing receptors and subsills in multiple door installations, the amount of preparation needed will be

based on the width of the opening and whether splicing is necessary. The governing factor will be the length of the

receptor/subsill, which will often be determined based on the shipping capabilities.

When preparing receptors and subsills for multiple door applications in a single opening, follow the procedures

outlined below. The splicing requirements are common to both receptors and subsills.

1. Distribute the materials to the correct opening.

2. Determine what field fabrication is necessary, such as cutting, drilling and the application of end dams,

gaskets and anchor clips as outlined in Section 20.2.1.


contraction.


follow the recommended procedures for attachment of the accessory to the substrate.

• When applying fasteners in an expansion slot, it is generally recommended that the fastener be positioned

in the center of the slot (see Figure 20-16).

3. In addition to the preparation outlined in Section 20.2.1, splice plates will need to be applied (see Figure 20-

31).

• Splice plates may be extrusions, formed from aluminum sheet or silicone compatible rubberized splice

sleeves.

• Typically, rigid splice plates will be attached to one end of one extrusion and allowed to float freely with the

opposing end of the mating piece, while flexible splices are sealed to both extrusions.

• First, apply any bond breaker tape to the splice as indicated on the drawings. The application of bond

breaker tape is necessary to back up the sealant joint and allow for expansion and contraction, while




indicated on the shop drawings. Keep in mind, some splice pieces are applied after the extrusions are

installed, as opposed to before.

• Check the design of the splice and determine if the receptor/subsill is designed to simply sit down, or nest,

with the opposing piece, or if the two pieces are to be slipped together prior to installation. The application

will vary based on the design of the extrusion and the splice.

Figure 20-31 Application of Splice Sleeves

20.3.2 Installation of Receptor Systems in Multiple Door Applications

After preparation of the receptor system and assembly of the splice plates, the receptor system can be installed

into position. Follow the installation procedures outlined in Section 20.2.2 along with the following precautions:

1. Starting from one end of the opening, install the receptor system. The receptor/subsill must be carefully

applied to ensure that all materials are properly lined up to allow for door installation later.

• It is a good idea to use strings to help locate the position of the receptors and subsill. Setting string will

help keep the receptors and subsills straight within the opening.

• A story pole and laser or plumb bob will also help keep the receptor and subsill in line with one another

from top to bottom, and ensure that the amount of clearance is correct.

2. Check the installation of each piece to ensure it is set plumb, level and square within the opening, and in


3. Once all of the pieces are installed in the opening, seal the splice joint (see Figure 20-32).

• Apply sealant over the joint and then tool it to ensure that all air pockets are removed, and to promote

good adhesion between the opposing ends of the extrusion.

• Use caution when applying the sealant; make sure the amount of sealant will not create interference with

the installation of the door later.

Note: Installing too much sealant may cause the door to rest on top of the sealant, causing the door to sit out of

level.


Figure 20-32 Sealing Splice Joints

4. Prior to installation of the door assembly, re-check the installation of the receptor system and make sure all

adjustments are made prior to the application of the perimeter seal.

5. Apply the perimeter seal as outlined in Section 20.2.3. Re-check all joints to ensure that no voids are left in the

sealant around the perimeter or between the perimeter seal and the splice joints.

20.3.3 Installation of Doors in Multiple Door Applications

The installation of doors in multiple door applications typically requires independent structural mullions.

Independent mullions are often required to support the structural load imposed on the jambs of the door assembly.

Frames incorporating independent structural mullions typically involve the attachment of the mullion to both the

receptor and subsill. The structural mullions carry the load to the extreme top and bottom, which in turn distributes

the load to anchor clips within the subsill and receptor. Check the manufacturer's shop drawings to determine the

design intent and mullion type for the job application. Each job is different and both the shop drawings and job

calculations will dictate the requirements for the application.

20.3.3.1 Installation of Independent Structural Mullions

The installation process for independent structural mullions will vary from job to job. Some applications will require

that the mullions be installed in sequence with the door assembly; however, the mullions are not integral to (part

of) the door.

Other applications will allow for each mullion to be installed independently of the door assembly. This will involve

locating and attaching the mullions within the opening, then installing the door assembly.

Regardless of which application is used, the attachment of the independent structural mullion is generally a

requirement. Special anchor clips are designed to carry the load imposed on the mullion from the adjacent framing

(see Figure 20-33).


Figure 20-33 Example Clip for Structural Mullion

In cases where the mullions are installed in sequence with the door assembly (i.e. door frame, then mullion, then

door frame), the practice is very similar to the steps outlined in this section, but the sequence is altered to allow

the door assembly to be inserted before the next mullion.

In situations where the mullions can be installed first (before the door frames are installed), follow these

guidelines:

1. First, check the opening and make sure the receptor and subsill are properly positioned and anchored.

2. Use the shop drawings to determine the exact location of the mullions (where they are to be positioned in the

opening). Mark the points on the head receptor and subsill for use later.

3. Special reinforcing plates and/or anchor clip receivers may be necessary. Check the shop drawings for their

location.

• In some cases, the anchor clip receivers are pre-inserted into the subsill prior to installation. In other

cases, the anchor clip receivers can be dropped into the subsill and/or receptor, and are positioned by the

installer to allow for mullion attachment (see Figure 20-34).


Figure 20-34 Reinforcing Plates in Subsill

4. In cases where the clip angle does not lock in place or integrate with a receiver, and attachment of the clip

involves penetration of the subsill, the installer must make sure the clip assembly is properly sealed in place

using the following guidelines.

• First determine the location of the clip in the subsill. Using the clip, find and drill the appropriate size hole

in the subsill.

• To seal the clip/fastener assembly, first pump sealant into the hole in the subsill.

• Apply a bed of sealant on top of the subsill over the entire area where the clip will rest (see Figure 20-35).

(The bed of sealant should be 1/8” thick.)

•


Figure 20-35 Application of the Anchor Clip Directly to Subsill

• Set the clip into position into the sealant, pressing it in place, causing the sealant to compress out and

around the clip perimeter.

• Install the fastener(s), any washers and the nuts into the clip, placing sealant between each layer.

• Encapsulate the entire head of the fastener/washer/nut with sealant to ensure a water tight joint.

• Tool the sealant at the fastener and around the clip to remove any air pockets, and to help promote good

adhesion.

• Randomly check installations with water (see Chapter 7.5) after the clips are attached and the sealant has

had time to properly cure.

5. Once the anchor clips have been installed into the head receptor and subsill, mullion installation can begin.

• Use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer to attach the mullion to the anchor clip.

• Check for slots in the clip at the head condition. Slots are designed to hold the frame in place, yet allow for

vertical expansion and contraction as well as building movement. If slots are present, it’s best to locate the

fasteners in the center of the vertical slot.

• Check each installation to ensure that the mullion is plumb and provides a square opening to receive the

door.


door assembly later.

• Apply a bead of sealant at any metal- to-metal joints where the mullion will interface with the subsill or

receptor (see Figure 20-36). Check the project shop drawings for seal locations.


Figure 20-36 Application of Sealant for Mullion

• After setting the mullions in place, tool the sealant on both the inboard and outboard side. Clean off any

excess sealant that will show on the exposed finish.

• It is a good idea to dry fit a frame into place to ensure it will fit properly between the two mullions prior to

attaching all of the mullions.

• Check the location of each mullion as the installation progresses. Make sure there will be enough room for

the last mullion and frame in the opening, and that there will not be an interference problem.

6. Once the mullions are secured in place and the opening is given a final check to ensure a good fit, the

installation of the door assembly and/or sidelights can begin (refer to Sections 20.1.3, 20.1.4, 20.1.5 and

20.1.6).

• Sidelights (fixed units adjacent to doors) are installed just like door assemblies, depending on whether

they are stacked in place horizontally or applied between mullions (see Figure 20-37).


Figure 20-37 Installation of Sidelights

7. Insert each door assembly (or sidelight) into the opening left by the mullions. Center the door between the

mullions and set the door in place.

• Make sure the frames are seated all the way down into the subsill.

• Never leave a frame unsecured in the opening. Use short temporary clips (pressure plates) to secure the

frame in place if continuous clips are to be applied later.

• Do not leave temporary clips in place, as they are not designed to support the full load.

• Always use the pressure plate fasteners recommended by the manufacturer.

• When applying continuous pressure plates, make sure to leave enough clearance to apply the receptor

clips.

• Once the continuous pressure plates are applied, the finished covers can be snapped on (see Figure 20-

38).


Figure 20-38 Apply Pressure Plates and Covers

8. After all of the door assemblies are secured in place, complete the installation by applying the finished

receptor clips and perimeter seal as required. See Sections 20.6 and 20.7 for finishing the interior and

exterior.

20.4 Installation of Door Assembly with Transom Panels Above

The installation of doors with fixed panels (transoms) above is similar to the instructions outlined in Section 20.3;

however, additional preparations and steps will be necessary. When installing transoms above doors, horizontal

stack mullions will typically be used, and need to be properly anchored to the frame below either prior to

installation, or after installation.

For applications where the horizontal stack mullion and transom are applied on top of the door assembly prior to

door installation, follow the guidelines provided in Section 20.4.1.

For applications where the transom is applied on top of the door assembly after door installation, follow the

guidelines provided in Section 20.4.2.

20.4.1 Horizontal Stack Mullions Installed Prior to Door Installation

If horizontal stack mullions are used, the installation of the door and transom is done in sequence, starting from

the bottom and working towards the top.

Use the following guidelines when installing transoms above doors using horizontal stack mullions:

1. After making sure the subsill and receptor are fully prepared, the assembly of the door and transom may

begin.

2. If possible, use a table to work from. Lay the door on top of the table and apply sealant to the horizontal stack

mullion as directed by the manufacturer, then set the horizontal stack mullion on top the door frame (see

Figure 20-39).

• Seal and attach the stack mullion with fasteners as indicated by the manufacturer. Make sure to seal all

fastener penetrations completely.


Figure 20-39 Assembly of the Stack Mullion

3. Apply an additional bead of sealant on top of the horizontal stack mullion in preparation for receipt of the

transom.

4. Set the transom in position over the door assembly. Slip the transom into the stack mullion, mating the male

and female sections together (see Figure 20-40).

Figure 20-40 Assembly of the Transom and Door Prior to Installation


5. Attach the transom to the stack mullion as directed by the manufacturer.

6. Set the door into position in the subsill, then rotate the head toward the exterior and push it against the

receptor at the jambs.

Note: If the assembly does not call for attachment fasteners, use caution when raising the frame into position so

the transom will not fall out of the horizontal stack mullion.

7. Move the door horizontally until it nests within the jamb receptor opening. Check the horizontal clearance, and

make sure the door is in the proper position before proceeding.

8. After installation of the door, apply the receptor clips to hold the door and fixed panel in place.

• Check the shop drawings to determine if gaskets need to be applied to the receptor clips prior to

installation.

• From the interior, check the fit; make sure the frames mate together according to the shop drawings.

20.4.2 Horizontal Stack Mullions Installed After Door Installation

If horizontal stack mullions are used and are to be applied after the doors are installed, use the following

guidelines:

1. After making sure the subsill and receptor are fully prepared, the installation of the door will occur first,

followed by the horizontal stack mullion, then the transom.

2. Set the door in place as indicated in the previous sections. Apply a bead of sealant to the bottom side of the

stack mullion.

3. Attach the mullion into position with fasteners as recommended by the manufacturer. Be sure to seal all

fastener penetrations.

4. Apply an additional bead of sealant on top of the horizontal stack mullion in preparation for receipt of the

transom.

5. Set the transom in position over the door assembly. This may require you to rotate the assembly into position,

starting with the bottom, and then rotate the head outboard against the receptor. Slip the transom into the

stack mullion, mating the male and female sections together (see Figure 20-41).

6. Move the transom horizontally until it nests within the center of the horizontal stack mullion. Check the

horizontal clearance, and make sure the door is in the proper position before proceeding.


Figure 20-41 Transom Installation after Door is Installed

7. Attach the transom to the stack mullion as directed by the manufacturer.

8. After installation of the fixed panel, apply the receptor clips to hold the door and fixed panel in place.

• Check the shop drawings to determine if gaskets need to be applied to the receptor clip prior to

installation.

20.5 Checking Installation for Plumb, Level and Square

Regardless of the installation practice used, all doors and accessories shall be installed plumb, level and square

within the opening. The following illustrations show how to check the door assembly to ensure it is properly

installed.

For All Door Types

1. Check the door assembly to ensure it is set plumb, level and square in the opening (see Figures 20-42 and

20-43), using the following tips:

• Make sure the door sill is level and not bowed or uneven.

• Install shims behind the jamb 4" to 6" from the sill and header.

• Adjust shims until the frame is square (diagonal measurements are within tolerance, based on the size of

the door).

• Plumb the frame and check for true (not racked) by using strings stretched from each corner to the

opposing corner.

Note: If the strings just barely touch, the unit is not racked out of alignment. If the strings are touching, reverse the

strings to determine if the unit is racked.




For All Hinged Doors

Open the operable panel(s) and remove any shipping spacers. Adjust the shims, and move the top of one or both

sides of the frame slightly in, out or horizontally, until the following conditions are achieved:

1. The top of each panel is parallel to the frame at the head (the margin is even across the top of the door).

• The operable panel(s) make even contact with the weather-stripping.

• The jambs are within 1/16" of being straight.

• The door operates properly and it remains stationary in any open position.


2. Install lockset(s) if not already in place.

3. Verify that the jambs are shimmed properly as follows:

• On each side there should be at least three shims, with shims installed behind each hinge (when hinged at

the jamb).

• Place shims behind the jamb strike plate.

• On the top, install at least three shims (within 4" to 6" of each corner and at the center mullion position),

except when directed not to do so by the manufacturer.

4. Secure the shims at hinge and strike locations with a long screw that penetrates the structural framing.

• One hole in each hinge may have been left open for this step. If not, remove one standard screw and

install a screw of an appropriate length (sometimes dictated by code) through the hole in the hinge,

directly into the jamb condition.

• When installing the long screws, take care not to pull the frame out of square.

5. For units with multiple jamb-hinged panels, also shim and secure hinges on the inactive side.

6. Close the panel(s). Then re-check the margins between the panel(s) and the jamb, and between the panels of

a two-panel unit. Adjust the shims as needed to maintain margins that are equal from top to bottom.

• Make sure panels remain aligned (tops even with each other).

On Two-Panel Hinged Glass Doors

1. Make sure the following is achieved:

• Both panels are in the same plane.

• The top corners of the panel locking stiles are aligned and flush with each other, and the margin between

locking stiles is even from top to bottom.

For Sliding Glass Doors

Open the operable panel and check the fit, adjusting the rollers as needed until the following is achieved:

1. Check the interlock to determine if the overlap is the same from top to bottom.

• Open each operable sash until it just clears the jamb and check the gap. It will be even along the vertical

edge of the interlock if the door panel is square.

• If the door panel is not square, remove the panel to reduce the weight, and adjust the rollers prior to

placing the panel back into the door frame. Continue to check and adjust until the panel is square in the

frame.

• Make sure operable sliders are fully blocked and supported at the locking points so that if the sash is


2. Operate the door panel and check for a smooth operation. If the door does not move freely, check the sill

track for debris and clean as needed.




Select a backer rod with a diameter approximately 30% larger than the nominal width of the joint. (Rule of thumb:

the rod diameter shall be at least 1/8" greater than joint width.)


• The backer rod should be inserted into the joint using a blunt probe or roller. It shall not be punctured, folded

or creased; this could cause emission of gas and bubbling of sealant. Joint primer shall not be applied to the

backer rod.

• Push the sealant into the joint over the backer rod in a continuous manner. Tool the sealant bead so that it is

an even, unbroken seal, sufficient to fill the gap between the door unit and the rough opening. Always follow

manufacturer's instructions. For detailed information on sealants, see Chapter 13, Section 13.5.

Remember, there are five basic steps for proper joint preparation and sealant application for doors:



3. PACK – Install backer rod or bond breaker as required.



configuration, and fully contacts the joint walls.


Most doors are manufactured with weep holes to allow moisture to escape. Never cover these weep holes with

sealant, paint or any other obstructive material. Remove any construction debris from the drainage path to ensure

proper drainage.



Whenever possible, place insulation in the cavity between the new door assembly/receptor and the building

components.

1. Use fiber insulation (fiberglass batt insulation) or low pressure expanding foam (see Chapter 13, Section

13.6.4). Follow the manufacturer's guidelines.




Like the exterior, place backer rod over cavity insulation on the interior side of the door to control sealant width and

depth.


On the interior of the door where an exposed joint occurs (or where required per the contract drawings), place

sealant over the backer rod in a continuous manner. The sealant bead shall be even, unbroken and fill the gap

between the door unit and the rough opening. For detailed information on sealants, see Chapter 13, Section 13.5.



inner-most surface of the door and the building condition. This air must be controlled in order to help reduce air

infiltration and energy consumption.


drywall and the door assembly becomes a cosmetic joint.



door assembly (see Figure 20-44). This may or may not be a part of the installer's contract.

1. The responsible party shall coordinate the installation of the drywall and the J-channel when abutting against

the door frame/accessory. Do not attach J-channels to the door assembly or receptor unless otherwise

approved by the door manufacturer.

2. It is preferable that a 1/4” wide joint be left to allow for movement of the door assembly due to wind load and/or

live load movement. If a properly sized joint is not left, cracking of the drywall may occur, or the sealant may

tear, requiring future maintenance.

3. If the door assembly is installed toward the outside of the wall assembly, a drywall J-channel return shall be

installed in the recess, and the joint between the face of the door frame and the drywall J-channel shall be

sealed.


Notes:______________________________________________________________________________________

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___________________________________________________________________________________________

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Table of Contents

21.1 Types of Screens .......................................................................................................... 1

21.2 Locating the Screen ...................................................................................................... 1

21.3 Stationary vs. Operable Screens .................................................................................. 2

21.4 Screen Access and Operation ................................................................................... 2

21.5 Installation of Screens .................................................................................................. 3

21.5.1 Installing a Screen with Compression Springs ....................................................... 3

21.5.2 Installing a Screen with Turn Tabs ......................................................................... 4

21.5.3 Installing a Sliding Screen Door ............................................................................. 5






21.0 Screen Installation

Screens can be installed after the window and/or door installation is complete. Screens for windows and sliding

glass doors are typically available as an option when ordering products.

It is often desirable to store screens in a protected area until the majority of the work is done, and then install the

screens later. Coordinate the screen installation with the approving authority.

21.1 Types of Screens

There are a variety of screen types, and each type is designed to accomplish a specific task. Insect screens are

used to simply protect against flying insects. Shade screens are used to offer some resistance to direct sunlight.

Security screens (protection screens) are used to provide a measure of security from intrusion into the building.

This chapter focuses primarily on screens and how they are used and installed.

Caution: Insect screens are intended to provide reasonable insect control. They are not for the purpose of

providing security or designed to provide retention of objects or persons on the interior. Screens are not retaining

devices for children.

Although not screens, child guards are often installed in multiple story buildings to help protect children from

falling from open windows. The installation of child guards is often not part of the window contract; however,

precautions are mentioned in this chapter to give some guidance to installers who may be asked to install child

guards.

When installing screens or child guards that are not part of the window/door system, installers are encouraged to

read and follow all of the manufacturer's installation instructions and precautions.

The following is a list of the different types of screens and child guards that are available:

1. Insect screens

• Fiberglass

• Aluminum

2. Shade screens

• Fiberglass

• Aluminum

3. Security screens (Protection Screens)

• Stainless Steel Mesh

• Steel Mesh

• Fiberglass Mesh (with sensor wire which activates alarm when cut)

4. Child Guards

• Metal

21.2 Locating the Screen

Screens can be installed inside or outside of the window or door. To install screens, follow the steps below:

1. First verify that the correct screen has been obtained. Usually the screen is tagged to correspond with the

window or glass door opening.

2. Determine whether the screen is to be installed on the interior or exterior. Check the manufacturer's

instructions for screen location. Some general hints for screen location are as follows:

• Insect screens


− Horizontal and vertical sliding windows typically mount screens on the outside.

− Casement, hopper, awning and dual action and projection windows usually mount screens opposite

the sash projection.

− Sliding glass doors and hinged doors typically have the screens on the outside, but can also have

screens on the inside depending on the product type and manufacturer.

• Shade screens

− Shade screens are generally installed on the exterior of the window for maximum efficiency.

• Security screens

− Metal security screens are generally installed on the exterior.

− Fiberglass security screens are frequently installed in the original screen location.

• Child guards

− Child guards are usually installed on the interior. They are designed to be adjustable for variations in

opening sizes so the guard can be attached to the interior framing.

3. Verify the size and fit of the screen. If the screen doesn’t fit, find out why.

Note: Never install a screen that may prevent or hamper emergency egress.

21.3 Stationary vs. Operable Screens

Consult the manufacturer's instructions to determine if the screen is a stationary (fixed) screen or an operable

screen.

• Window screens are often fixed.

• Screens for doors operate at the head or sill on sliding tracks, or swing from hinges.

• Protection screens are typically fixed.

• Child guards are typically operable, but are locked to protect against operation unless there is an emergency.

21.4 Screen Access and Operation

Stationary screens that are mounted on the interior may require a device (typically called wickets) that allow for

access and operation of the window locking hardware. The options available for interior screens are:

• Screens with hinged wickets

• Screens with sliding wickets

• Fully hinged screens

Screens with wickets require additional framing to support the wicket assembly (see Figure 21-1), while the fully

hinged screens do not. Fully hinged screens and screens with wickets, however, must be opened in order to close

and lock the window.


Figure 21-1 Access Options for Hardware

21.5 Installation of Screens

The installation of screens varies, and each manufacturer has its own installation method. Therefore, these

instructions can be used only as a general guideline for installing screens and are not intended as a substitute for

the manufacturer's instructions. Always install screens in windows and doors per the manufacturer's instructions.

21.5.1 Installing a Screen with Compression Springs

1. Install the portion of screen with compression springs into the deep pocket of the frame (this may be the

jamb or the head).

2. Push the screen into the pocket until the screen bottoms out in the window channel (see Figure 21-2). Use

caution not to bend the screen frame when you compress the springs.


Figure 21-2 Screen with Compression Springs

3. Swing the opposite end of the screen into the window frame and let it slip into the shallow pocket of the

track.

4. Release the screen and make sure it is secured and locked into position.

21.5.2 Installing a Screen with Turn Tabs

1. Place the screen over the window and align it in place.

2. Secure the screen in place by screwing a turn tab (see Figure 21-3)over the frame and into the window

frame or trim boards. Use caution to not over tighten the screws.

Figure 21-3 Screen with Turn Tabs


21.5.3 Installing a Sliding Screen Door

1. Retract the wheels on the screen door to their lowest position; this will allow for the most amount of

clearance when installing the screen (see Figure 21-34).

Figure 21-3 Installing Sliding Screen Door

2. Lift up the door into the top track far enough to provide clearance for the bottom of the door to swing in over

the bottom top of the track (see Figure 21-34).

3. Adjust the bottom wheels up to provide enough clearance for the door to slide smoothly. Align the screen

door to the jamb for an equal sightline by adjusting the lower wheels up and down.

4. Adjust the top wheels up until the wheels engage the top track. Turn the adjustment screw an additional turn.

This will put enough tension on the wheels to keep the door rolling smoothly and prevent it from jumping off

the track. For overhead sliding screens, similar adjustments can be made at the head. See the

manufacturer's instructions for adjustment instructions.

5. Install the latch and keeper. It is best to put the keeper on only after the final adjustments have been made to

the door.

6. Operate the screen to verify that it works properly.

7. Verify that the screen has proper clearance and coverage.

8. Open and close the screen door to check for smooth operation.

9. Check the latch to determine that it engages the keeper and holds the screen securely closed.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________


__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

______________


Table of Contents

22.1 Cleaning Finished Materials .......................................................................................................................1

22.1.1 Material Finishes .................................................................................................................................1

22.1.2 Use of Protective Coverings ...............................................................................................................1

22.1.3 Manufacturer's Instructions .................................................................................................................2

22.2 Cleaning Windows and Doors ....................................................................................................................2

22.2.1 General Cleaning of Light Surface Soil ..............................................................................................2

22.3 Washing Glass Surfaces ............................................................................................................................3

22.4 Cleaning of the Building Exterior ................................................................................................................4

22.5 Site Clean-up ..............................................................................................................................................4

22.5.1 Removal of Construction Debris .........................................................................................................4

22.5.2 Proper Disposal of Debris ...................................................................................................................4

22.6 Welding After Glass is in Place ..................................................................................................................5






22.0 Final Cleaning

To insure proper operation of the installed products and the longevity of the finish, proper selection and use of

cleaners is critical. The cleaning products many installers are accustomed to using may not be compatible with all

materials used in commercial applications. In some cases, damage to the finish and structural integrity of the

product may occur. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for proper cleaning methods and materials.

If the installer leaves the product cleaned and in good working condition, other trades that follow will be more

inclined to clean up after themselves. The following sections address cleaning finished products, regardless of the

responsible trade.

22.1 Cleaning Finished Materials

22.1.1 Material Finishes

When choosing a cleaning solution, consider the following:

• The actual finish applied to the material;

• The possibility of scratching the surface; and

• The possibility of damaging the finish using harsh chemicals

This chapter provides suggested general cleaning instructions for aluminum, vinyl, wood and fiberglass materials.

Read completely all cleaning instructions prior to starting any cleaning job.

Additional cleaning instruction/information regarding anodized and painted aluminum materials can be found in

AAMA 609, "Voluntary Guide Specification for Cleaning and Maintenance of Architectural Aluminum," and AAMA

610, "Voluntary Guide Specification for Cleaning and Maintenance of Painted Aluminum Extrusions and Curtain

Wall Panels." For vinyl products additional information can be found in AAMA PMB-1-11 “Caring for Your

Windows, Doors and Skylight.”

22.1.2 Use of Protective Coverings

Some products arrive at the job site with clear, white or blue-tinted adhesive vinyl protective coverings, which can

be peeled off after installation of the products. Sometimes these coverings are field applied to protect the finish.

While these materials protect the finish, they must not be allowed to remain on the product for an extended period

of time as they can also “bake on” and harm the finish.

Alkaline building products, such as wet plaster, stucco, mortar, concrete and lime can cause permanent stains

and corrosive damage to the finish of products. Additionally, harsh acidic cleaning agents, such as muriatic

(hydrochloric) acid, used to wash the building surface can also damage the finish.

Whenever possible, apply protective coverings over the entire finished surface to avoid contact. If the

manufacturer has applied protective coverings, they should remain in place until the work is complete. If a

protective covering is not provided, the responsible trade must protect the finish prior to starting their work.

Consider these tips:

• Never use high-pressure washers as they can damage the finish and sealant.

• Whenever there is a chance of harming the finish of windows and doors, protect them by masking them with

the appropriate materials.

• Masking tape should not be used on finished surfaces. Masking tape can, when heated by sunlight, bake onto

the finish causing damage when removed.


If the finished surface of a product happens to come into contact with muriatic acid, other acidic products or

alkaline substances, remove any residue before it dries. Wash and rinse the surface completely, then dry with a

clean towel. If these materials are allowed to remain, there is a strong possibility of finish damage.

Stucco or concrete left to cure on the frames of windows and doors and glazing materials may damage the

surfaces. Promptly remove and clean all such materials that come into contact with these surfaces before any

curing action takes place. Additionally, glass or aluminum surfaces exposed to water leaching from new concrete

or stucco must be rinsed immediately to prevent permanent damage.

22.1.3 Manufacturer's Instructions

Most manufacturers offer standard instructions regarding removal of the protective cover and final cleaning of

specific finishes. Final cleaning of all windows and doors shall be done in strict accordance with the

manufacturer's instructions, applicable codes and safety regulations. The information in this manual is offered to

the installer for use when information is not available from the manufacturer.

22.2 Cleaning Windows and Doors

22.2.1 General Cleaning of Light Surface Soil

Start cleaning the products by removing any visible residue. Use a vacuum cleaner to pick up any loose debris in

window or door tracks, as well as any loose drywall dust, mud and other materials on the face of the products.

Additionally, inspect and clean all weep holes to ensure proper drainage of the product. When the vacuum

cleaning is complete, clean the material finish by using the recommendations below.

Prior to washing the products, remove all light surface soil. Some testing is recommended to determine the

degree of cleaning actually necessary to accomplish the desired result. Use the following procedures, starting

with the gentlest process and working toward a more aggressive approach, as the need occurs.

For interior applications, the recommended cleaning process includes using warm water and a damp cloth.

Starting from the top and working toward the bottom, wash with a gentle, yet uniform pressure using a soft cloth.

First, clean in a horizontal direction, then in a vertical direction. Make sure the cloth is frequently rinsed in clean

water and does not contain grit, which can scratch the surface. Rinse the surface from the top down using clean

water, then, dry thoroughly with a clean cloth. If the soil is still present after drying, some surface agitation can be

introduced. Follow the same procedure indicated above using a wet soft sponge or soft brush to gently scrub

remaining dirt, while concurrently applying water to the surface.

For exterior applications, the methods above can be followed; however, a garden hose can be used to dislodge

any soil and perform the final rinse. Use caution because many operable windows and doors are not designed to

withstand direct, full-pressure, full-volume spray from a typical garden hose. Windows and doors may allow water

to penetrate into unwanted locations when subjected to such a spray. When using a garden hose, always apply

the water at a low volume, using moderate water pressure and an indirect spray. Always start with windows on

the upper floors and work down. Minimize the amount of water running over the lower portions of the building to

avoid other stains or damage.

If soil still adheres to the surface, a mild detergent cleaner can be used along with the soft sponge or brush, gently

scrubbing the surface. Mild soaps or detergents ruled safe for bare-hands will be safe for painted products.

Always use a uniform pressure when washing window and door components. First, clean with a horizontal motion

and then a vertical motion. The surface must be thoroughly rinsed by spraying with clean water, and then


thoroughly dried with a clean cloth before going to the next step. Do not allow cleaning solutions to collect, or

"puddle," on horizontal surfaces and crevices. Always flush these areas with water and dry thoroughly.

Refer to the manufacturer's instructions before using any type of solvent.

Caution: Never use abrasive pads to clean finished surfaces. Follow the cleaning instructions provided. Do not

use excessive abrasive rubbing to remove stubborn stains; this may adversely affect the finish and leave an even

more undesirable appearance.

Some Important Cautions Regarding Any Finish

• Never use paint removers, aggressive alkaline, acid or abrasive cleaners. Don't use cleaners containing

trisodium phosphate, highly alkaline cleaners or highly acidic cleaners. Do not use cleaners containing

aggressive organic solvents such as chlorine bleach, liquid grease remover, strong soaps or deter-gents

containing organic solvents, nail polish remover or furniture polish/cleaners.

• Do not attempt to clean sun-heated surfaces, because possible chemical reactions on hot surfaces may be

accelerated. Always work in shaded areas or in areas not exposed to direct sunlight. Also, avoid cleaning in

freezing temperatures, or when temperatures are low enough to cause condensation. Surfaces cleaned under

these adverse conditions can become streaked or tainted, and cannot be restored to their original

appearance.

• Use only mild detergents and non-etching cleaning agents on products. Never mix different cleaners as

adverse chemical reactions may occur. Always follow the cleaning material recommendations at the proper

concentration, and always test the cleaner in a small area prior to proceeding.

• Never use scouring pads, abrasive brushes, steel wool or other abrasives that will damage the finish. Do not

use excessive rubbing. Make sure sponges or cleaning cloths are free of dirt or grit.

22.3 Washing Glass Surfaces

Cleaning glass surfaces is much like cleaning framing materials. Any paint, plaster or sealant on the glass should

be removed immediately. Never clean glass with an abrasive material or strong organic solvents, which could

harm the glass surface or glazing sealant.

For extremely soiled conditions, remove excess residue with a mild soap solution and a clean damp cloth prior to

using any aggressive cleaning techniques. Removing excess residue will reduce the amount of cleaning required

and reduce the possibility of scratching the glass surface. Frequently rinse the cloth to remove grit.

Once the excess dirt and grime are re-moved, clean the glass with a mild soap or detergent, or glass cleaner.

Always start with a clean, grit-free, soft cloth or sponge. Wet the cloth or sponge with the cleaning solution and

gently wash the glass surface. Immediately rinse with a clean cloth using clean rinse water. Promptly remove

excess rinse water with a clean squeegee. Finally, dry any residual water on the surface of the glass and window

frame with a clean, dry cloth.

Clean glass with reflective coatings using extreme caution in order to avoid scratching the surface. Use the same

procedures outlined above, taking extra care to remove gritty dirt particles picked up by the cleaning cloth or

sponge.

Use the same precautions outlined above when cleaning Lexan or Polycarbonate products. Use extreme care, as

these surfaces may be damaged during the cleaning process if the proper measures are not taken.


Protect the glass from welding, cutting, sandblasting, fireproofing or other potentially damaging work. Never mark

glass with permanent markers, tape or other materials that may harm the surface.

Note: Masking tape should not be used on glass surfaces. Masking tape can, when heated by sunlight, bake onto

the glass and/or window frame, causing damage when removed.

Windows and doors often arrive at the job site with labels and stickers on the surface. Generally, all manufacturer

stickers can be removed during cleaning. Only remove temporary labels that do not indicate certification of the

products. Temporary labels are generally applied to the glass and obviously impede the view. Permanent labels

are not to be removed; they will generally be located in inconspicuous locations in the jamb track of windows and

doors, or can be seen only when the window or door is open.

Caution: Use extreme care when removing labels. Avoid scratching the glass with razor blades or other sharp

tools.

22.4 Cleaning of the Building Exterior

Final cleaning is a common occurrence on commercial buildings and should always be done by professionals

experienced in this type of work. Although final cleaning of the building exterior is often not the responsibility of

the window/door installer, coordination with the contractor is essential. Depending on the cleaning materials and

methods used, final cleaning can often lead to serious damage of the installed units. As an example, muriatic

acid, a chemical used to clean brick, can result in damage to the finish of the product as well as cause failure of

the sealant.

Installers are encouraged to communicate the problems associated with final cleaning with the contractor, and

help determine reasonable solutions to accomplish the final cleaning process while maintaining the integrity of the

finish and sealant joints. At a minimum, recommend that any final cleaning be done from the top of the building

down, one floor at a time. Insist that the cleaning agents be immediately rinsed off the finished product and wiped

dry before proceeding on to the floor below. This will help reduce the potential for damage due to the harsh

chemicals.

22.5 Site Clean-up

22.5.1 Removal of Construction Debris

During the installation of window and door products, a certain amount of construction debris will most likely

accumulate. The installer of the products is responsible for removing any debris accumulating during his/her work.

Debris may include, but is not limited to, cardboard, plastic, banding, shims, miscellaneous trim cutoffs, sealant

tubes, fasteners, broken glass, old windows, etc.

22.5.2 Proper Disposal of Debris

Always dispose of construction debris responsibly and appropriately. In new construction applications, a job-site

waste disposal container may be available. When working in replacement applications, remove all materials from

the job site. Some materials may be considered hazardous and shall be disposed of in accordance with local

ordinances. Always dispose of materials in such a way as to remove any potential for harm to the public.

Materials such as glass, steel, aluminum and vinyl can be taken to recycling centers and reclaimed.


22.6 Welding After Glass is in Place

Welding done after the glass is installed can cause significant damage to both the glass and the finished surface

of the installed unit. Whenever possible, it is best to make sure all welding of steel anchor clips, straps and plates

is complete before the glass is installed.

Understanding that this is not always possible and that there are many trades involved in the construction

process, there are occasions when welding must take place after the units are installed.

Welding involves intense heat and often results in large quantities of molten hot material flashing off the pieces

being welded. The material that flashes off can shatter glass, mark the finish on the glass surface and damage

the finish on the installed unit. The installer is encouraged to communicate the problems associated to welding

with the contractor. The contractor is responsible to communicate with any trades that follow so they will also

understand these concerns.

Whenever welding must be done after the units are installed, the window/door must be protected. This may

involve a number of different protective measures, but as a minimum, a canvas tarp should be hung to protect the

opening during the welding process.

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

_________________________________________________


Table of Contents

23.1 Using Quality Control Checklists ................................................................................................................1

23.2 Window and Glass Door Operation ............................................................................................................1

23.3 Occupant Safety .........................................................................................................................................3






23.0 Quality Control

Performing specific quality control procedures is a critical part of completing any installation. Installers perform

numerous tasks that are important to the overall quality and performance of the finished installation, and the most

efficient way to make sure each task is completed properly is to perform a quality control check.

Completing the quality control check via a checklist signifies that an installer has performed each step of the

installation process completely and correctly, and in accordance with the installation practices outlined in this

manual.

When an item on the quality control checklist is not part of the installer contract, the approving authority assumes

this responsibility.

23.1 Using Quality Control Checklists

The quality control checklist contains a number of items critical to installation, and includes checking for the

following:

• The opening is configured correctly and contains the appropriate materials.

• The products used are correct for the desired application and meet the code requirements.

• All windows and doors fit the openings based on the correct clearances for the product.

• The correct flashing has been used and installed properly.

• Appropriate sealant, shims and blocking have been used and applied correctly.

• Sealant joints have been spot checked for field adhesion per ASTM E C1521.

• The products have been installed plumb, level and square.

• Weep holes/slots are clear and free of any obstructions.

• Correct fastener selection and placement has been maintained, and additional fasteners have been used

where required, based on the type of product used.

• The products have been tested to ensure smooth and safe operation.

• Final cleaning has been done, and all debris has been removed from the job site.

• Any required maintenance has been performed to place the products in working order.

Use of the preprinted quality control checklists provided as part of this manual is an important part of a complete

and satisfactory installation.

23.2 Window and Glass Door Operation

As part of the final inspection performed by the installer, windows and doors are to be checked for operation.

Each window should be unlocked, opened, closed and locked to ensure smooth and safe operation. Make sure

limit-opening devices have been engaged and restrict operation when they are included on the job.

Check any product that does not operate correctly to determine the source or cause of the problem. Make any

necessary corrections or adjustments to correct any problems detected. If any minor adjustments can be made by

the installer to correct improper operation, they should be made. Before any major corrective work is done that

would result in a charge, the installer is encouraged to contact the manufacturer for proper maintenance

instructions and approval to proceed.


Sample of Field Quality Control Checklist Customer: _____________________________ Phone: _________________________ Address: _____________________________ Date Installed: _________________________ City & State: _____________________________ Lead Installer: _________________________ Zip Code: _____________________________ Phone: _________________________ Initial Product Review and Verification: Products were checked when they arrived at the job site and were in good condition. Products that included safety glazing were placed where required by code(s). Products involving high performance glazing were placed in the proper location. Problems pertaining to the existing windows and/or rough openings have been reported to the responsible party, and

have been resolved or documented. (See attached documentation.) All safety issues related to hazardous materials have been properly addressed and resolved. Other _____________________________________________________________________ Appropriate Installation Techniques Used and Quality Control Checks Performed: All openings are configured correctly and include the appropriate materials. Products used are appropriate for the application, and meet code requirements. Water resistive barrier and flashing requirements were coordinated with the contractor. Products were installed with proper clearances and checked for plumb, level and square. Products have been installed according to the manufacturer's instructions. Flashing/sealant, sealing, shims and shimming applications follow AAMA recommendations and ASTM Standards. Correct fastener placement has been followed as directed by the manufacturer. Periodically QC checks and field water penetration tests have been performed. Periodic field checks for sealant adhesion quality in accordance with ASTM C 1521 Other _____________________________________________________________________ Final Check of Installation: All products were checked for operation and function, safely and correctly. Screens have been checked and are in good condition. Any required adjustments or maintenance has been performed. Weep holes have been checked for obstructions and cleared where necessary. Final cleaning of frames and glass has been completed. All debris has been removed from the job site and disposed of properly. Operation of the product and standard maintenance requirements have been explained to the owner. Job has been turned over to the contractor or other responsible party with their approval. Other______________________________________________________________________ Installer's Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _____________ (Where applicable, each of the items checked above have been properly reviewed, verified and completed as part of my field quality control check prior to turning the job over to the responsible party/approving authority.) Responsible Party: __________________________________________ Date: _____________ (The items checked above were completed as part of the installer's quality control process. My signature indicates that the installation was completed to my satisfaction and/or direction.)


23.3 Occupant Safety

The safe operation of the windows and doors by future occupants is of critical importance. For this reason, any

products that are not in working order should be marked and restricted from use until repairs can be

accomplished or replacements installed. Never leave windows or doors that cannot be operated safely unmarked,

since job-site visitors may try to operate the windows, which could cause serious harm or injury.

It is important that the operation and maintenance requirements of the product be provided to the owner and/or

his representative. Copies of all operation manuals, maintenance manuals and documentation shall be provided

to the owner and/or his representatives at the conclusion of the installation.

Notes:

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________

COPYRIGHT © AAMA 2008 23-3 SIXTH EDITION

Table of Contents

24.1 Maintenance of Hung Windows ..............................................................................................................1

24.1.1 Tilt Latch Mechanism ......................................................................................................................1

24.1.2 Sash Lubrication .............................................................................................................................1

24.1.3 Balance Adjustment ........................................................................................................................1

24.2 Maintenance of Awning/Hopper, Casement and Dual Action Windows .................................................1

24.2.1 Locking Mechanism Adjustment .....................................................................................................1

24.2.2 Hinge Adjustment ...........................................................................................................................2

24.2.3 Limit Stop Engagement ..................................................................................................................2

24.3 Maintenance of Sliding Windows ............................................................................................................2

24.3.1 Removal of the Sash ......................................................................................................................2

24.3.2 Adjustment of the Rollers ................................................................................................................2

24.3.3 Cleaning of the Roller Track ...........................................................................................................2

24.4 Maintenance of Sliding Doors .................................................................................................................3


24.4.2 Screen Adjustment .........................................................................................................................3

24.5 Maintenance of Hinged Glass Doors ......................................................................................................3


24.5.2 Hinge Adjustment ...........................................................................................................................3

24.6 Field Re-Glazing Techniques .................................................................................................................3

24.6.1 Marine Glazing ................................................................................................................................4

24.6.2 Wet-Glazing/Tape-Glazing .............................................................................................................6

24.6.3 Dry Glazing .....................................................................................................................................8

24.6.4 Application of a Heel Bead .......................................................................................................... 11

24.6.5 Application of a Cap Bead ........................................................................................................... 12

24.7 Field Glass Cutting and Handling ........................................................................................................ 12

24.7.1 Measuring and Scoring ................................................................................................................ 12

24.7.2 Breaking the Glass ...................................................................................................................... 15






24.0 Final Adjustment and Product Maintenance

This chapter provides some basic final adjustment and maintenance tips for hung windows, awning/hopper,

casement, dual action and sliding windows, sliding doors, hinged doors and screens. Final adjustment and

maintenance instructions specific to each product can be found in the manufacturer's product literature. This

chapter also provides tips on field glass handling and cutting techniques, for those occasions where the installer

must replace a lite of glass.

24.1 Maintenance of Hung Windows

24.1.1 Tilt Latch Mechanism

Check tilt latches to ensure proper retraction and return required for window cleaning. If the tilt latch is too tight, it

may not function properly. Latches are designed in various ways. Some tilt latches can be adjusted.

If the latch can be adjusted, raise the bottom sash above the sill a minimum of 4". On double hung windows,

operate the bottom sash first; then lower the top sash a minimum of 4". Retract the tilt latch(es) and rotate the

sash inward until it reaches a flat, horizontal plane. The tilt latch can now be inspected to determine the cause of

failure. If the tilt latch will not perform properly after minor adjustment, contact the manufacturer for a replacement

or further instructions. If minor adjustments can be made, make the appropriate adjustments. Lift and shut the

sash and check for proper tilt latch return.

24.1.2 Sash Lubrication

Occasionally, the sash operates with difficulty and needs minor lubrication. Always lubricate tracks in accordance

with the manufacturer’s instructions. Tracks of wood windows should be lubricated only after the windows are

finished, since lubricant over-spray can adversely affect the bond between the wood and the finish.

Before lubricating vinyl tracks, verify that the lubricant is compatible with the vinyl or plastic parts used in the

window assembly. When silicone aerosol sprays are used, prevent them from contacting plastic locking

mechanisms because the plastic may be made of impact-resistant polycarbonate materials that will begin to

dissolve from the solvents contained in these sprays.

24.1.3 Balance Adjustment

There are occasions when the sash lifts or settles improperly over a short time. This may require balance

adjustment, when that option is available. Adjust balances only when they have instructions from the

manufacturer explaining the process. Hung windows can be designed in a number of ways, and will include

balances from a number of different manufacturers. Adjust balances only with the proper tools, since bodily harm

may be caused if the work is done improperly.

24.2 Maintenance of Awning/Hopper, and Casement and Dual Action Windows

24.2.1 Locking Mechanism Adjustment

Awning/hopper and casement windows normally include cam locks and keepers. When the sash does not close

and lock properly, minor adjustments can be made. To adjust the keeper, simply unlock and open the window.

The release of limit devices may require special keys to gain visual access to the keeper. Generally, adjustment

to the keepers can be accomplished by simply unscrewing the fasteners a few turns. The keepers may have

elongated holes allowing for repositioning of the hardware. Once repositioned, the fasteners can be tightened. If

this procedure does not correct the problem, the hinges may need a minor adjustment. Tilt & turn hardware allows


the excentric cams mounted on the sash to be adjusted to increase or decrease the compression of the sales

between the frame and sash.

24.2.2 Hinge Adjustment

Hinges can be adjusted using the process mentioned for lock adjustment. Although numerous types of hinges are

available, simply loosening the attachment screws and repositioning the sash can adjust many of them. Once the

sash has been moved slightly, the fasteners can be tightened, and the sash can be checked for proper operation.

Minor lubrication of the hinges may be necessary if the hardware has collected dirt and dust during the

construction phase. A silicone spray can be used to lubricate the hinges, but should be used sparingly.

24.2.3 Limit Stop Engagement

Make sure limit opening devices have been engaged and restrict operation when they are included on the job.

24.3 Maintenance of Sliding Windows

24.3.1 Removal of the Sash

When the sash of a sliding window is not operating properly, the sash can be removed to check for problems.

Most sliding window sash sit on rollers in the sill track. To remove a sliding window sash, unlock and move the

sash to the open position about 6". Once the sash is open, the installer can lift the sash as high as possible into

the head member, and rotate the bottom of the sash toward the interior. This process will allow the sash to clear

the window track.

Some products are equipped with anti-lift devices that will restrict the sash from being raised. If the sash does not

lift easily out of the sill track, inspect the window for these devices and remove them as required. Never force or

pry on a sash to remove it from the frame.

Once the sash clears the sill track, the window can be lowered and removed from the head track. Turn the sash

over and check the roller housing to determine if the hardware is working properly. If the rollers are not working

properly and need adjustment, follow the instructions below. If the rollers cannot be adjusted, minor lubrication

may correct the problem. Always use lubrication materials sparingly. If the roller housing is plastic, consult the

manufacturer for the proper lubrication. Silicone sprays can degrade the housing material.

24.3.2 Adjustment of the Rollers

Adjustment of the rollers can usually be accomplished in one of two ways. Some roller housings are not

adjustable, but can be raised or lowered by placing or removing spacers under the housing. To remove or add

spacers, follow the directions above for sash removal. Then, remove the housing and make the necessary

adjustments.

Other rollers can be adjusted by a simple turn of a screw, which raises and lowers the sash. In many cases, the

sash does not have to be removed. Always check for an access hole, which allows for adjustment of the rollers

prior to removal of the sash. Holes will either be exposed to view or will be covered by a plastic hole plug. Hole-

plugs can be easily removed by gentle force, using your fingernails or a flat, thin spatula. Once you have gained

access to the adjustment screw, simply turn the screw to adjust the sash, either higher or lower.

24.3.3 Cleaning of the Roller Track

The roller track will often collect construction debris which will result in rough operation of the sash. If the sash

does not glide smoothly across the sill, check the sill track for debris. To clean the roller track, simply use a


vacuum cleaner to pick up the loose material; then use a cloth or sponge and soap and water to finish the

cleaning.

24.4 Maintenance of Sliding Doors


Sliding glass doors are very similar to sliding windows, with the exception of the locking mechanism provided.

Locking mechanisms can be adjusted by turning the adjustment screws. To make adjustments to the lock, unlock

and open the door until full access to the locking jamb is permitted. Inspect the lock for attachment and

adjustment screws. To adjust the amount of throw (reach) the lock cam will have, simply rotate the adjustment

screw, then close the door and throw the lock. Check the clearance again by trying to open the door while in the

locked position. A limited amount of clearance should be allowed between the lock and the keeper.

24.4.2 Screen Adjustment

Screens can be designed in a number of different ways. Regardless of whether the screen rolls on rollers at the

sill, or is mounted to a roller housing in the head, minor adjustments can be made. If the screen has rollers at the

sill, check the opposing ends of the screen frame for access holes, which will allow for adjustment of the screen. If

the screen is mounted with rollers at the head, screen adjustment should be accomplished either from the ends,

or from the face of the screen. By turning the adjustment screws, the screen will either raise or lower at each end

to insure smooth operation.

24.5 Maintenance of Hinged Glass Doors


Check hinged glass doors for proper operation. This includes the swing of the door and proper locking.

When the locking device does not operate smoothly, check to find out why and adjust the lock and/or keeper as

required. The lock should operate with little pressure applied against the door when being closed.

24.5.2 Hinge Adjustment

To check the hinge operation, open the door 90 degrees; and from a stationary position, swing the door closed

using little force. If the door shows evidence of resistance to closing, some minor adjustment may be necessary.

Depending on the type of hinge used, the installer may find room for adjustment in the hinge itself, or may need to

simply tighten up on the screws penetrating the jamb condition.

24.6 Field Re-Glazing Techniques

On occasion, the materials that are pre-glazed into the window or door units will get damaged. This may include

broken glass, scratched panels or any number of other problems.

As opposed to returning the entire frame for re-work, the installer may choose to re-glaze the unit. Always consult

with the manufacturer for any specific instructions relative to disassembly of the framing, the re-glazing

requirements, and the proper use of sealants, tapes and spacers, before initiating service work.

The following is an explanation of some of the terms and techniques used for re-glazing in the field. In these

examples, glass is used for explanation purposes; however, the same techniques apply to any smooth surface

infill material.

Note: Always use extreme caution when handling glass, as serious personal injury and damage can occur.

Always use safety glasses and glass-handling-gloves when performing this type of work.


24.6.1 Marine Glazing

Marine glazing is common in hung and sliding windows. Marine glazing consists of a channel-shaped gasket that

wraps completely around the glass unit (see Figure 24-1).

Figure 24-1 Marine Glazing

The way to tell if the product is marine glazed is to look for a gasket of consistent thickness on both the interior

and exterior sides. Additionally, a joint at the top center of the unit can often be seen. Another sign is the lack of a

glazing bead (i.e. the sash must be disassembled in order to remove the infill).

To re-glaze a marine glazed sash, use the following techniques:

1. Remove any loose particles of glass from the sash, and/or secure the glass in place.

• If broken glass remains in the sash, apply tape over the glass surface to help stabilize it during sash

removal.

2. Remove the operable sash. The method of removal will depend on the type of window. Consult with the

manufacturer for specific cautions regarding hardware and sash removal.

3. Place the sash on a worktable, and use a screwdriver to remove any screws that were used to assemble the

sash together. Generally, the screws will be at the top and bottom of each vertical member (see Figure 24-2).


Figure 24-2 Removing Screws and Gasket

4. Using a wood or nylon block and a rubber mallet, gently tap the rail off the marine glazing and glass.

• Remove the two vertical members first, then the horizontal members. Remember how these materials

came off, so they can be reinstalled over another piece of glass in the same manner.

• Once the frame is removed, the marine glazing gasket can be taken completely off the glass. Check the

marine glazing gasket for any remaining glass particles or debris that might be embedded in the gasket.

5. Re-install the same marine glazing gasket over the new piece of glass (must be the same size and thickness),

reversing the steps used to remove the gasket.

• Make sure to check the glass to determine which is the top/bottom and which is the interior/exterior

before reassembling the sash.

• Start at the top center of the glass, at the splice location, and complete installation around the entire

perimeter. Don’t over stretch the gasket.

• Check the horizontal members for weep holes, and make sure they are clear of any debris.

• Center the horizontal members in place and over the gasket/glass, and tap them into place with the

rubber mallet.

• Tap the vertical members in place, making sure the intersection with the coping of the horizontal lines up

properly.

• Secure the verticals in place and re-check the corner joinery to make sure everything lines up. Apply the

fasteners back into the assembly holes. Do not over tighten.

Note: Fastener lengths may vary; be sure to place them back into the correct hole.

6. Once the sash is re-assembled, check the marine glazing gasket to ensure it is lying flat, centered within the

frame and that there are no distortions in the gasket.

7. Examine the sash joinery and seal any excess gaps/joints with matching sealant.

8. Re-assemble the sash to the frame, making sure the hardware is applied properly, the sash is secured back

into position and that the sash works properly.


24.6.2 Wet-Glazing/Tape-Glazing

The term wet-glazing/tape-glazing has to do with the way the glass is glazed (or sealed) into the sash. Wet-

glazing typically involves the use of sealant on the exterior side of the sash, while tape-glazing uses a foam or

butyl tape. Both typically involve a gasket and glazing bead on the interior side (see Figure 24-3).

Figure 24-3 Wet Glazing System

The following procedures are relevant to interior glazed units. If the units are exterior glazed, reverse the process

(i.e. the position from which the work is performed).

Removal of a wet/tape glazed product will require access to the exterior in order to cut away the sealant or tape.

On fixed lites, this will require someone to go to the exterior, while another person stays on the interior to help

secure the glass.

Use the following procedures for removal and replacement of the glass:

1. First, remove the interior glazing beads from the sash. Start by removing the shorter pieces (typically the

pieces that butt against the opposing beads).

• Check the gasket in the glazing bead to find out if it is removable. If it is removable (wedge type), take all

of the gaskets out before proceeding. This will reduce the pressure against the glazing bead. If the gasket

is not removable (bulb type), you should be able to compress the glazing bead toward the exterior with

minimal effort.

• Use a putty knife and rubber mallet to remove the glazing bead. Try to pry in and up on the glazing bead

(directly at the metal to metal joint), while tapping the putty knife with the mallet.

• Use caution and avoid damaging the glazing beads and gaskets, as they will be reused to install the new

piece of glass.


2. If the glass has been sealed with a “heel bead” (see Section 24.6.4), cut through the bead with a utility knife

along the glass edge.

3. From the exterior, using a utility knife or other appropriate tool, cut through the wet/tape glazing material until

the glass is free around the entire perimeter.

• When cutting the seal, apply moderate pressure against the glass, pushing it toward the interior to help

ease the cutting process.

• Make sure there is an assistant on the interior to keep the glass from falling out of the opening on the

interior.

4. Once the glass is removed, re-check the opening and prepare it for the new piece of glass.

• Remove the setting blocks and make sure they are saved to put back in the same position when installing

the new glass.

• If a heel bead was used, remove all residual tape/sealant material on the exterior glazing leg and around

the perimeter.

• Clean the entire area with an approved solvent such as Isopropyl Alcohol or Mineral Spirits (consult the

sealant supplier before choosing a solvent) before applying any new glazing tape or sealant.

• Check to make sure the weep holes are clear of any debris.

5. Depending on whether the glass was “wet-glazed” or “tape-glazed,” use one of the following techniques for

re-glazing. Make sure the glass is properly cleaned before glazing it into the frame.

Wet Glazing (Gunnable Sealant)

• Apply spacers of an appropriate size and material on the exterior leg of the frame to keep the glass from

contacting the glazing leg (see Figure 24-4).

Figure 24-4 Spacer Application for Wet Glazing


• Apply a consistent bead of sealant to the glazing leg around the entire perimeter of the frame.

• Re-install the setting blocks and edge blocks back into the proper position. Consult the manufacturer,

IGMA or GANA standards for setting block locations if unsure where they go.

• Using a piece of glass that is the same size and thickness set the glass in place in the sealant. Make sure

the glass is evenly spaced into the opening.

• If a heel bead was previously used, reapply it now in accordance with the heel bead application

instructions in Section 24.6.4.

• If the glazing bead was applied with a wedge gasket, apply it after the glazing bead is installed. If a bulb

gasket was used, it should be pre-applied to the glazing bead.

• Re-apply the glazing beads starting with the longest pieces first, followed by the shorter pieces. Use a

rubber mallet to snap them into position.

Tape Glazing (Foam or Butyl)

• Apply the tape (with protective backing on) into position on the glazing leg around the entire perimeter of

the frame. Make sure the tape is parallel with the outside edge (exposed surface) of the glazing leg, and

positioned in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

• The protective backing is to remain on until after the glass is ready to be installed. Make sure that the

corners of the tape are squarely cut, and butt to each other completely. Do not overlap or stretch the tape

to make it fit.

Joints should occur at the corners only. Apply a compatible sealant (as recommended by the sealant supplier)

to the joints in the tape at the corners.

• Re-install the setting blocks and edge blocks back into the proper position. Consult the manufacturer,

IGMA or GANA standards for setting block locations if unsure where they go.

• Remove the protective backing and set the glass in place onto the tape. Make sure the glass is evenly

spaced in the opening before setting it into position.

• If a heel bead was previously used, re-apply it now in accordance with the heel bead application

instructions in Section 24.6.4.

• Re-apply the glazing beads starting with the longest pieces first, followed by the shorter pieces. Use a

rubber mallet to snap them into position.

• If the glazing bead was applied with a wedge gasket, apply it after the glazing bead is installed. If a bulb

gasket was used, it should be pre-applied to the glazing bead.

24.6.3 Dry Glazing

The term dry glazing typically involves the use of gaskets on both sides of the glass. In the case of dry glazing,

the exterior gasket is usually a pre-set gasket, while the interior gasket involves the use of glazing beads with co-

extruded fins orand a wedge gasket (see Figure 24-5).


Figure 24-5 Dry Glazing System for Aluminum (left) and Vinyl (right)

Removal of a dry glazed product can typically be done from the interior unless the system is exterior glazed,

which would require the installer to perform the work on the exterior.

The following procedures are relevant to interior glazed units. If the units are exterior glazed, reverse the process

(i.e., the position from which the work is performed).

Use the following procedures for removal and replacement of the glass:

1. Remove the interior glazing beads from the sash. Start by removing the shorter pieces (typically the pieces

that butt against the opposing beads).

• Check the gasket in the glazing bead to find out if it is removable. If it is removable (wedge type), take all

of the gaskets out before proceeding. This will reduce the pressure against the glazing bead. If the gasket

is not removable (bulb type), you should be able to compress the glazing bead toward the exterior with

minimal effort.

• Use a putty knife and rubber mallet to remove the glazing bead. Try to pry in and up on the glazing bead

(directly at the metal to metal or vinyl joint), while tapping the putty knife with the mallet.

• Use caution and avoid damaging the glazing beads and gaskets, as they will be re-used to install the new

piece of glass.

2. If the glass has been sealed with a “heel bead” (see Section 24.6.4), cut through the bead with a utility knife

along the glass edge.

3. If the glass is still in one piece, use a rigid/wide blade putty knife at the top of the unit to help pry the glass

free from the exterior gaskets. Glass suction cups can also be used to help release the glass. (Never apply a

suction cup to a broken piece of glass.)

4. With the glass removed, re-check the opening and prepare it for the new piece of glass.

• Remove the setting blocks and make sure they are saved to put back in the same position when installing

the new glass.


• Remove all residual sealant around the perimeter if a heel bead was used.

• Make sure any weep holes are clear of debris, which could restrict the drainage of moisture.

• Clean the entire area with an approved solvent such as Isopropyl Alcohol or Mineral Spirits (consult the

sealant supplier before choosing a solvent) before applying any new sealant.

• Re-check the exterior gasket and make sure it is ready for installation of the new piece of glass. Check

the gasket to make sure it is properly seated and that the corners are not deformed.

6. Re-install the setting blocks back into the proper position. Consult the manufacturer, IGMA or GANA

standards for setting block locations if unsure what to do.

7. Using a piece of glass that is the same size and thickness, re-set the glass into the sash. Make sure to center

the glass equally in the opening. Check the exterior gaskets to ensure they have not become displaced in the

process. If they have, remove the glass and try again.

8. If a heel bead was previously used, reapply it now according to the heel bead application instructions in

Section 24.6.4.

9. Re-apply the glazing beads starting with the longest pieces first, followed by the shorter pieces. Use a rubber

mallet if necessary to snap them into position.

10. If the glazing bead was applied with a wedge gasket, apply it after the glazing bead is installed. If a bulb

gasket was use, it should be pre-applied to the glazing bead.

• When applying a wedge gasket, use a wooden or nylon block and a rubber mallet to help wedge the

gasket between the glazing bead and the glass.

• Insert the longest pieces first, followed by the shorter pieces. Start by inserting each end into the corners,

then a section at the middle, followed by progressively inserting the remaining length a bit at a time until

the entire wedge gasket has been inserted (see Figure 24-6). When complete the wedge gasket should

be smooth and free of any waves.


Figure 24-6 Installation of Wedge Gasket

11. Check the corners to ensure they butt tight together. If any voids exist, use a matching sealant to seal the

joint.

24.6.4 Application of a Heel Bead

A “heel bead” is a line of sealant applied between the edge of a piece of glass or panel, and the frame of a

window or door (see Figure 24-7). There are two types of heel beads. A “partial heel bead” is typically found along

the bottom of the unit and up the jamb 6" to 12”. A “full heel bead” is found around the entire perimeter of the

glazing.

To reapply a heel bead, use the following steps:

1. First, make sure the surface to receive the new sealant is properly cleaned and prepared.

2. If there is enough space, apply a backer rod between the glass and the frame to help control the joint depth.

3. Apply the sealant into the joint, pushing the sealant into the joint.

4. Tool the sealant, compressing the sealant into the joint and against the glass and the frame, removing any air

bubbles.

5. Use caution not to over-seal the joint. Do not get sealant into any hooks or engagement legs that are used to

retain the glazing bead.


Figure 24-7 Application of a Heel Bead and

Cap Bead

24.6.5 Application of a Cap Bead

A “cap bead” is a line of sealant applied between the exterior face of the glass or panel and the frame of a window

or door (see Figure 24-7).

To re-apply a cap bead, use the following steps:

1. First, make sure the surface to receive the new sealant is properly cleaned and prepared.

2. Apply the sealant into the joint, pushing the sealant into the joint.

3. Tool the sealant, compressing the sealant into the joint and against the glass and the frame, removing any air

bubbles.

24.7 Field Glass Cutting and Handling

There may be an occasion where the installer needs to cut a new piece of glass for re-glazing into the frame.

Glass cutting and the sealing of insulating glass should always be done in the shop where quality control and

cleaning can be properly maintained. Cutting of single lite, annealed glass can be accomplished in the field using

the following recommendations.

When field cutting is required, the installer must work safely. This includes the use of safety glasses, proper glass

handling gloves and the correct tools. The installer should also understand the importance of properly disposing

of any remaining glass pieces (scraps), which may cause a safety issue to others around the job site.

The following tips for glass cutting and handling are offered to the installer:

24.7.1 Measuring and Scoring

Accurate measuring is critical to the job of replacing glass. This includes the length and width of the score

(sometimes called “cut”) as well as making sure the score is square when finished. Typically a pre-designed

clearance has been established between the glass cut size and the frame; therefore the finished cut should be

±1/16” of the desired size in order to maintain the proper clearance.


Prior to marking the replacement piece, accurately measure the existing piece of glass to determine the desired

size. Once the score is made on the glass, there is no opportunity to make a change, so pre-planning and

accuracy are critical.

Always use an appropriate straight edge to mark and score the glass. This may include a wood, rigid plastic or

metal straight edge of a sufficient length and strength. Glass handlers will often use a specially designed T-

Square or L-Square for this purpose (see Figure 24-8).

Figure 24-8 Glass Measuring/Marking Tools

When marking glass for scoring, use the appropriate tools. There are a variety of glass markers, pencils and felt

tip pens available to the installer. Whatever the choice for a marker, make sure that the marks can be easily seen

prior to scoring, yet easily removed with a damp cloth.

Set up a solid work surface (table) to measure and score the glass. If at all possible, use a piece of carpet or

padding over the table to provide a smooth surface to work on (see Figure 24-9). The use of carpet or padding will

also help avoid scratching the glass surface.

Tip: Cut the opposite side of the “tin” side of the glass, as the cutter will skip on the "tin" side. If not known,

consult the glass manufacturer to determine the "tin" side of the glass.


Figure 24-9 Setting Up a Work Table

Glass scoring tools available for use in the field are commonly hand-held wheel cutters. These cutters have been

used for years for this purpose. Some cutters work best when used in conjunction with cutting oil. Before

attempting to score a piece of glass, check the following:

• The cutter is clean and in good condition.

• The cutting edge is free of any damage and the wheel rotates freely.

• The glass surface is flat and smooth.

Note: It is also a good idea for the installer to make a few attempts to score the glass by using some scrap pieces

of a similar piece of material. This will ensure that the wheel is working properly and that the installer becomes

accustomed to the amount of pressure required to make a clean score.

• With the straight edge clamped in position along the marked line, start at the top, scoring the glass using the

cutter. Often, the cutter works best when rotated 5 degrees from vertical.

• Using a consistent amount of pressure, score the glass surface in a smooth stroke. The installer should

position himself in such a way as to be able to make as long a score as possible before stopping. Be firm, yet

do not apply excessive force.

Note: Listen for the sound of the glass being scored by the cutter. The sound should be consistent and the cutter

should score easily.

• If it is necessary to stop scoring before completing the first cut, be sure to start back at the point where the cut

ended; this is critical to making a clean break later.

• To finish the score, continue the scoring motion, running the cutter off the edge of the glass at the end of the

stroke.

• A good score can be seen as a very fine line along the glass surface. If the line is not smooth, the edges may

end up being rough when the glass is broken in the next step.


24.7.2 Breaking the Glass

Breaking the glass (or removing the portion to be discarded later) seems to be the most difficult part of the

process. This work requires a “feel” only gained through experience. The glass needs to be broken in one smooth

snapping process, although longer cut lengths may require more than one snap.

Prior to trying to snap the glass, the installer may wish to use the tapping ball (located on the end of the cutter) to

help complete the fracture. This is accomplished by consistently tapping along the score line on the backside of

the glass.

Once the glass is scored and ready for breaking, move the glass so that the unwanted portion hangs over the

edge of the table. Position the scored edge along the edge of the table (see Figure 24-10). Use the following

techniques to complete the break:

• Grasp the unwanted portion of the glass with both hands, while allowing the desired portion to remain laying

flat on the table. Place your thumbs along the score line on the topside, while applying pressure with the other

four fingers along the under side.

• Making a snapping motion should easily break the glass. Snap the glass by slightly raising the glass up off the

table and then snapping it back down over the edge of the table in one smooth action.

• Another method that can be used is to place a rod under the glass along the cut line; this will allow the glass

to come off the edge of the table. With this process, grasp the glass with both hands as instructed earlier, and

apply pressure downward in a smooth, deliberate, snapping action.

Figure 24-10 Breaking the Glass

Notes:_____________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________________

_________


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Acoustics

The science of sound and sound control.

Aerosol Foam Sealant

A sealant that is formed and expands in volume as it is dispensed under pressure from a container using a

propellant.

Air Barrier

The assembly of materials used in building construction to cut down on the passage of air in and out of the

building.

Air Leakage

In buildings, the passage of uncontrolled air through cracks or openings in the building envelope or its

components, such as ducts, due to air pressure or temperature difference. Also referred to as Air Infiltration. A

characteristic of a closed window that restricts air passage when the window is subjected to a differential in

pressure. The test pressure differential is intended to represent those pressures acting on a window as a

combination of wind, stack-effect, etc.

Airspace

The space between lites (panes) of insulating glass.

Anchor

Any device used to secure a building part or component to adjoining construction or a supporting member. See

also Floor Anchor and Jamb Anchor.

Annealed Glass

Raw glass used as a glazing product. Further processing is required to transform annealed glass into safety glass.

Anodic Finishes

Anodic coatings are composed of aluminum oxide and are an integral part of the aluminum substrate. Careful

control is essential to the electrolytic anodizing process, and it provides substantial improvement over the natural

oxide film due to the greater thickness, density and hardness of these factory-produced finishes. They may be

clear (natural) or colored. Color is electrolytically deposited or integral. Pre-anodic chemical treatments clean and

prepare the aluminum for the anodic finish. The Aluminum Association classifies architectural anodic coatings

depending on coating thickness and recommended use. Further detailed information and specifications on anodic

finishes are available from the American Architectural Manufacturers Association and the Aluminum Association.

AAMA CIM-XX, DRAFT #X, DATED X/X/15 PAGE A1-1

GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Backer Rod

A material placed into a joint, primarily to control the depth and shape of the sealant. Also serves as a bond

breaker.

Barrier Systems

The location of the weatherability is determined by the integrity of the first (exterior) surface of the wall and the first

surface of the window or door. The two surfaces are usually connected together by a sealant joint, effectively

creating a water barrier for the building.

Bead

A sealant after application in a joint, irrespective of the method of application, such as sealant bead, glazing bead,

etc. A strip of metal or wood used around the periphery of a lite of glass to secure it in place (also referred to as a

stop). A strip of sealant, glazing compound or putty.

Bite

Amount of overlap between the stop and the panel or lite. The distance that the surrounding member (rail or stile)

overlaps the glazing.

Bituminous

Describing cement, mastic or roofing, indicating a product in which asphalt is a major ingredient.

Blind Stop

A rectangular molding attached to the side and head of a window to serve as a stop for storm windows and

screens.

Bond Breaker

A material used to prevent three-sided adhesion in sealant joints.

Brake Shape

Sheet stock bent or “broken” to a desired shape, as required by specific job, on a power or manual brake machine.

This shape is often used to cover conditions which cannot be covered by a stock shape.

Brick Mold

An exterior trim molding forming a boundary between bricks or other siding and a window or door. It is sometimes

provided with a recess to receive a screen or storm door.

Buck

A rough wooden framework built into a window or door opening in a concrete or masonry wall, to which the window

or door frame is secured.


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Building Envelope

The outer elements of a building, both above and below ground, that divide the external from the internal

environments.

Butt Joint

A meeting of two members squarely end to end.

Buttering

Application of sealant compound to the flat surface of some member before placing the member in position, such

as the buttering of a removable stop before fastening the stop in place.

Cap Bead

A beveled seal applied to the top of the glazing rabbet to shed water away from the glazed infill.

Check Rail, Meeting Rail

A horizontal member that meets to fill the opening between the sash when the sash are closed.

Check Stile, Meeting Stile

A vertical member that meets to fill the opening between the sash when the sash are closed.

Cladding System

Material assembly applied to a building as a non-load-bearing wall, or attached to a wall surface as a protective

and ornamental covering.

Compatibility

The ability of two or more materials to exist in close association for an indefinite period with no adverse effect of

one on the other.

Complete Window Replacement

The installation of a replacement window, where the previously installed window is completely removed.

Composite Materials

Window and door members that are comprised of two or more materials. They are structurally combined or

connected so as to perform structurally as a singular material (e.g., poured and debridged aluminum shapes,

fiberglass, and man-made wood products).

Compound

A formulation of ingredients, usually grouped as vehicle or polymer pigment and fillers, to produce caulking

compound, elastomeric joint sealant, etc.


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Compression Gasket

A gasket designed to function under compression.

Condensation

The deposition of moisture (liquid or frost) on the surface of an object, caused by warm, moist air coming into

contact with a colder object.

Condensation Resistance Factor (CRF)

A rating number obtained under standard test conditions which allows the prediction, within reasonable accuracy,

of the ability of a window, door or glazed wall to resist the formation of condensation on interior surfaces.

Construction Documents

Architectural drawings, specifications, shop drawings, manufacturing details, test reports or contracts, building

permits, applicable codes.

Curing

Chemical process of developing ultimate properties of a finish or other material over a specified period of time.

Compare to Drying.

Curing Agent

One part of a two-part sealant, which, when added to the base, will cause the base to change its physical state by

chemical reaction between the two parts.

Dead Load

Load from the permanent parts of a building or structure; loads on glass from twist or camber in framing members

are dead loads.

Design Pressure (DP)

The wind load pressure a product is designed to withstand.

Deflection

A measurement of sash members or mullions bending under applied pressure or force.

Divider

A solid element other than a frame or sash that is used to create divided lites, including muntins as well as grilles

that lie between the indoor and outdoor glass layers.

Drainage Wall System

See Membrane/Drainage System.


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Dry Glazing

A flexible seal made from rubber, vinyl, etc., or other acceptable material that does not have adhesive properties.

Durometer

An instrument used to measure hardness of a material. Shore Hardness is a commonly used hardness

measurement scale.

Egress

A means of exiting. An egress window is one that is large enough for an adult to exit the room in case of an

emergency. The size will be defined by national or local building codes.

Elastomer

An elastic, rubber-like substance, such as natural or synthetic rubber.

Electrolysis

Chemical decomposition of metal surface by the action of dissimilar metals and moisture.

End Dam

Any means provided to stop the flow of water out from the ends of the sill, panning system or subsill and into the

wall cavity, such as, but not limited to, sealants, upstands, plates or gasketing.

Expansion Joint

A separation between building elements that allows independent movement without damage to the assembly.

Exposed Surfaces

Those surfaces which are visible when the coated product is installed. These may include both closed and open

positions of operating sash, ventilators, doors or panels.

Exterior Glazed

Glazing infills set from the exterior of the building.

Exterior Insulation and Finish System (EIFS)

A nonload-bearing outdoor wall finish system consisting of a thermal insulation board, an attachment system, a

reinforced base coat, exterior joint sealant and a compatible finish.

Fillet Bead

Caulking or sealant installed at the intersection of two surfaces which meet at an angle, often 90 degrees.

Fixed Window


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

A frame containing a fixed lite(s).

Flashing

Sheet material that bridges and protects the joint (gap) between the window or door frame members, and the

adjacent construction. Its purpose is to prevent water penetration by draining water away from the window or door

to the exterior. See also Through-Wall Flashing.

Flashing System

Integrated system of flashings intended to move incidental water to the building exterior.

Frame

The outside perimeter of a window or door consisting of two side jamb members, one head member and one sill

member. In a window, the frame will hold the glass lites or sash panels. An assembly of structural members that

surround and support the sash, ventilators, doors, panels or glazing that is installed into an opening in a building

envelope or wall.

Galvanic Corrosion

A form of deterioration of metal resulting from the electrochemical reaction that occurs when certain dissimilar

metals are in contact with each other in the presence of moisture.

Gasket

Preformed shapes (strips, grommets, etc.) of rubber or rubber-like composition, used to fill and seal a joint or

opening, either alone or in conjunction with a supplemental application of a sealant.

Gateway Performance Requirements

The requirements for minimum gateway test size, air leakage resistance, structural design load and overload

testing, water penetration testing, forced-entry resistance, and auxillary testing which are the conditions permitting

a product entry into a performance class. They are specifically indicated for each product operator type in

AAMA/WDMA/CSA 101/I.S. 2/A440.

Glass Fiber Reinforced Concrete (GFRC)

A specialty concrete wall system.

Glazing

Window sash and door panel infills that contain glass, or glass-like materials. A material installed in a sash,

ventilator or panel such as glass, plastic, etc.

Head

The horizontal member forming the top of the frame.


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Head Expander (Extender)

An inverted U-channel installation accessory that may be fitted to the head of a replacement window to

accommodate differences between rough opening and window heights.

Header

See Lintel.

Heel Bead

Sealant applied at the base of a channel, after setting the lite or panel, and before the removable stop is installed,

to prevent leakage past the stop. Sealant must bridge the gap between the glass and frame.

Inorganic

Designating or composed of matter that is not animal or vegetable; designating or composed of any chemical

compound not classified as organic. Most inorganic compounds do not contain carbon and are derived from

mineral sources.

Insulating Glass Unit

Two or more lites of glass spaced apart and hermetically sealed in a factory.

Jamb

A vertical member of a window or door frame; also called Side Jamb. The upright or vertical members forming the

side of the frame. The horizontal member across the top may be referred to as the Head Jamb.

Level

Having a horizontally flat, even surface with no irregularities and no vertical tilt. No part of the surface is higher or

lower than any other part.

Lift Rail

A horizontal member applied to the top or bottom of the glass, and used to operate the sash.

Lite

One piece of glazing (preferred term).Another term for a pane of glass used in a window.

Lintel

A horizontal structural member (beam) that supports the load over an opening, such as that of a door or window.

Also called a Header.

Live Loads

Loads from people and non-permanent parts of a building; loads from window washing and glazing rigs are live


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

loads.

Mastic

A material composition that, after application as a thin layer, is converted to a solid protective, decorative or

functional adherent film.

Mechanical Fastening

The method employed to join together two or more components of a window using a mechanical device such as a

screw, rivet, etc.

Meeting Rails

The horizontal members or rails of a pair of sash that meet when the sash are installed and in a closed position.

Meeting Stiles

The vertical members or stiles of a pair of sash that meet when the sash are installed and in a closed position.

Membrane/Drainage System

A wall design that utilizes a water resistive barrier as the weather barrier behind the exterior surface of the

assembly.

Mill Finishes

Uncoated aluminum that possesses a silvery, natural finish.

Mulled

Where two windows are joined together at a mullion.

Mullion

An intermediate connecting member used to "join" two or more windows or doors together in a single rough

opening.

Muntin

A vertical or horizontal sash member that separates two or more lights within a sash.

Organic

Designating or composed of any chemical compound containing carbon; derived from living organisms.

Organic Finishes

Organic coatings including paints, enamels and resins. A wide range of colors is achieved through the addition of

pigments. For further detailed information concerning organic coatings on aluminum, contact the American


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Architectural Manufacturers Association.

Pan/Panning

Cosmetic covering, usually found on the exterior of the window or door to achieve aesthetic sight lines, or to

integrate the window or door system into the building surface or weatherproofing system. If panning is being used

for weatherability, the panning is not considered cosmetic, but rather part of the window system.

Permanent Deformation

A change in shape or dimension that does not disappear when pressures are no longer applied.

Plumb

To make vertical.

Pressure Differential (∆P)

The difference between the absolute air pressure on the external surface of a window or glass door, and the

absolute air pressure on the internal surface of the same window or glass door. The difference is positive when

the external pressure is higher than the internal pressure. When the external pressure is lower than the internal

pressure, the difference is negative. This pressure differential is expressed in pounds per square foot (psf) or in

Pascals (Pa).

Primary Seal

The seal beyond which no water is allowed to pass. It is the location within the wall construction that is ultimately

responsible for maintaining water impermeability between the interior and exterior of a building envelope.

Prime Window (Primary Window)

The first window completely installed in a rough opening, which is designed to function as the sole window or door

(contrasted to a storm window, which serves as a secondary window in conjunction with a primary window).

Pultrusion

Fiberglass reinforced polymer (plastic) structural members having a constant cross-section. Pultruded window or

door members are typically polyester polymer reinforced by continuous fiberglass filaments.

Rail

The horizontal piece of sash or screen frame.

Relative Humidity

The amount of water vapor in the air as a percentage of the maximum amount the air could hold at the same

temperature.


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Remodel

To replace or improve a building or its components.

Replacement Installation

Installation of a window or door that is designed for replacement of existing like and type product(s), by either

destructive or nondestructive installation methods.

Replacement Window or Door

A window/door that is designed for, and subsequently installed after, removal of all, or part, of a previously

installed window.

Retrofit

To add new materials or equipment not provided at the time of original construction.

Rough Opening

The opening in a wall or roof into which a window or glass door is to be installed.

R-Value

Thermal Resistance = 1/U-value

Safety Glass

Annealed glass that undergoes further processing. The characteristic of safety glass is that it reduces the

possibility of severe injury upon accidental impact. There are two types of safety glass that meet the CPSC-federal

standard, 16 CFR 1201, Cat. II:

Tempered and Laminated

Tempered glass, through a heat strengthening process, becomes four times stronger than annealed glass and when

broken, separates into dice-like cubes approximately the thickness of the glass.

Laminated Glass

Two lites of glass sandwiched together with an interlayer of polyvinyl butyral (PVB) under heat and pressure.

Laminated glass when broken tends to remain intact.

Safety Glazing

The use of safety glass and certain plastics in hazardous locations. Building codes require safety glazing in two

broad types of hazardous locations: (1) Glazing subject to accidental human impact, such as in doors, sidelites

(glazing next to doors), other glazing that extends to or near the floor or walking surface, and glazing in the walls

and enclosures of bathing compartments. (2) Skylights or sloped glazing in walls and roofs greater than 15

degrees from the vertical. Laminated glass or certain plastics are required to reduce the possibility of any part of

the glazing from vacating the glazed opening when broken.


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Sash

An assembly of one or more lites of glazing, encompassed by surrounding edge members, which, when operable,

slides in the plane of the window. The term "sash" can be used regardless of the mode of operation.

Sealant

Any of a variety of compounds used to fill and seal joints or openings in wood, metal, masonry and other materials,

as contrasted to a sealer, which is a liquid used to seal a porous surface. Some common types of sealants are:

neoprene, polysulfide rubber, silicone, acrylic latex, butyl rubber and polyurethane.

Seismic Load

Building movement and forces caused by earthquake motion.

Setting Block

A small piece of neoprene or other suitable material used to position a piece of glass in its frame.

Shading Coefficient (SC)

The ratio of solar heat gain through a window, under a specific set of conditions, to the solar heat gain through a 3

mm sheet of clear, double-strength glass under the same conditions. Included is the directly transmitted solar

radiation, as well as the solar energy absorbed and then redirected to the indoor space.

Shim

A thin, flat or wedge-shaped piece of suitable material used to level or plumb a window or door frame during

installation. Lateral shims are placed at the jambs; setting shims are placed at the sill.

Sight-Line

The line defining the perimeter of the daylight opening of a window. It may be formed by the sash, spacer

assembly or the glazing stop.

Sill

A lower horizontal member of a window or sliding door frame. The main cross or horizontal member forming the

bottom of the frame.

Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC)

The ratio of solar heat gain through a window component to the solar radiation incident on it, for a given angle of

incidence, and for given environmental conditions (indoor temperature, outdoor temperature, wind speed and solar

radiation). Included is the directly transmitted solar radiation, as well as the solar energy absorbed and then

redirected to the indoor space.


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Spandrel

The opaque area of a building envelope which typically occur at locations of floor slabs, columns and immediately

below roof areas.

Square

Two construction members that meet at a right (90°) angle. In fenestration, the condition in which the jambs are

perpendicular to the head and sills.

Stile

The vertical piece of sash or screen frame.

Stool

Horizontal interior trim at the base of a single hung or double hung window (often mistakenly called the sill). The

flat, narrow shelf forming the top member of the interior trim at the bottom of a window.

Stop

In glazing, a strip of metal or wood used around the periphery of a pane of glass to secure it in place. Also defined

as the narrow trim along the jamb and head that limits the swing of a door or hinged windows, or creates a

channel for a sliding sash.

Storm Window

An exterior-mounted window intended for use in conjunction with a separate interior prime window.

Stucco

Cementitious mixture used for exterior plaster.

Subsill

A separate framing member that, when installed on the underside of a sill, becomes an integral part of the sill.

Terne (Metal)

An alloy of lead and tin applied to steel by dipping steel into molten terne metal. The alloy has a dull appearance

resulting from the high lead content.

Thermal Barrier

The insertion of a non-heat-conducting material between two conductive members, thus avoiding heat transfer.

Through-Wall Flashing

Flashing that extends completely underneath the sill, or over the head of a window, and has an upturned leg on

the interior side.


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Tooling

The operation of pressing in and striking sealant in a joint; to press the sealant against the sides of a joint and

secure good adhesion; the finishing off of the surface of a sealant in a joint so that it is flush with the surface.

Total Glass Thickness

The sum of the thicknesses of all layers of glass in the window, not including the thickness of any glazing cavities.

U-Factor

Indicates the rate heat flows through a product for each degree of temperature difference between one side and

the other. U-Factor is the inverse of R-Value. The lower the U-Factor, the greater a window’s resistance to heat

flow, and the better its insulating value.

Unit

Refers to a complete window, door or skylight assembly, including frame, sash (or door slab) and glass.

Upstand

The vertical portion of a panning, flashing or subsill system that prevents the migration of collected water behind

the membrane or into the wall cavity. Collected water is drained to the building exterior.

Vapor Retarder (Vapor Barrier)

Material used in the house envelope to retard the passage of water vapor or moisture.

Visible Light Transmission

The fraction of the visible portion of the solar spectrum that is transmitted through the glazing (VLTg) or window

(VLTw).

Wall

One of the sides of a room or building connecting floor and ceiling or foundation and roof.

Water Penetration

The penetration of water that would continuously, or repeatedly, wet parts of a building or components not

designed to be wetted.

Water Resistant Barrier (WRB)

The surface(s) of a wall responsible for preventing water infiltration into the building interior. In Surface Barrier

Systems, the exterior-most surface is the Water Resistant Barrier (WRB). In Membrane/Drainage Systems, the

membrane applied behind the exterior surface is the Water Resistant Barrier (WRB).


GLOSSARY APPENDIX 1

Weather-Stripping

Material around operating lites designed to reduce air leakage, water penetration, or both.

Wet Glazing

Glazing compounds (e.g., glazing tapes, sealants and adhesives) that are applied to the exterior, interior or both,

that interface between the glass and sash or glazing.

Window Cleaner Anchor

An anchor, either single or double headed, conforming to ASME A39.1 Standard Safety Requirements for Window

Cleaning, that will allow a window cleaner to safely access across a window for cleaning. Also known as a Davit.


ABBREVIATIONS AND ACRONYMNS APPENDIX 2

°F

Degrees Fahrenheit

AAMA

American Architectural Manufacturers Association

ALC

Air Leakage Control

ANSI

American National Standards Institute

ASME

American Society of Mechanical Engineers

ASTM

American Society for Testing Materials

BOCA

Building Officials and Code Administrators

BTU

British Thermal Unit

CABO

Council of American Building Officials

cfm

Cubic Feet per Minute (also CFM)

CFR

Code of Federal Regulations

CPSC

Consumer Products Safety Commission

CSA

Canadian Standards Association



DOE

(United States) Department of Energy

DP

Design Pressure

EIFS

Exterior Insulation and Finish System

EPA

Environmental Protection Agency

F.S.

Federal Specifications

GANA

Glass Association of North America

GFRC

Glass Fiber Reinforced Concrete

HVAC

Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning

IBC

International Building Code

IGMA

Insulating Glass Manufacturers Alliance

ICBO

International Conference of Building Officials

ICC

International Code Council

IWC

Inches of Water Column (also iwc)



NFPA

National Fire Protection Association

NFRC

National Fenestration Rating Council

O.C.

On Center

OSHA

Occupational Safety and Health Administration

Pa

Pascal (unit of pressure)

PG

Performance Grade

psf

Pounds per Square Foot

SBCCI

Southern Building Code Conference International

UBC

Uniform Building Code

UL

Underwriters Laboratories

UV

Ultraviolet

WDMA

Window and Door Manufacturers Association (formerly NWWDA)
