tallin in your pocket 2011

N°76 - €2.24 / 35.05krwww.inyourpocket.com

TALLInn

Hotels Restaurants Cafés nightlife Sightseeing events Maps

Most complete guide to the cityWe’ve got Tallinn covered

SaunasTake part in the hottest of Estonian pastimes

February - March 2011February - March 2011

THE OFFICIALTRAVEL GUIDE OF

THE OFFICIALTRAVEL GUIDE OF

Contents

3Contents

February - March 2011

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Arriving 6Getting here is half the fun

The Basics 7Helpful things everyone should know

History 10Learn it, or you’re doomed to repeat it

Culture & Events 12Concerts, art galleries, cinema and more

Saunas 22Hot times in the Old Town tonight

Where to stay 24A bed for every budget

Dining & NightlifeWhere to eat 32From sushi to sült

Cafés 50The hottest places in the caffeine scene

Nightlife 52Where to pick up or not pick ‘something’ up

Contents

SightseeingOld Town 62The medieval centre in a nutshell

Sightseeing tours 64By bus, by bike or on skates

Museums 66Covering city history, from mines to marzipan

Kadrirog 71Stroll in Tallinn’s most beautiful park

Participaction 72Take action

Transport & CommunicationGetting around 74Navigating Tallinn and travelling onward

Mail & Phones 79Phone home, log on or send a postcard

Shopping 80Cool souvenirs and fashion purchases

DirectoryBusiness 88Lifestyle 90Health 91Officials 92

Maps & index Street register 93Old Town map 95City map 96Index 98

Why did you throw my keys down there?

Get ready to sweat, read more on saunas from p. 22.

Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com

4 foreWord


E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Editorial Editor In Chief Nat A. SingerContributor Steve Roman Researcher Irja LuksLayout & Design Küllike Johannson-SingerPhotography Küllike Johannson-Singer, Nat A. Singer

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OÜ Linnajuht 1997-2011. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Tallinn In Your PocketVana-Viru 4, Tallinn 10111Estoniatel./fax +372 644 64 70advertising tel. +372 631 33 [email protected]

ISSN 1406-2690©OÜ Linnajuht

Printed by Reusner, TallinnPublished six times per year10,000 - 13,000 copies

Cover story

The cover photo of this edition of Tallinn In Your Pocket features the Holy Spirit Church (Püha Vaimu Kirik C-2/3) as a backdrop for a stylish Café sign. The photo was thoughtfully snapped by our very own Küllike Johannson-Singer using the Nikon D200.

Sales & Circulation General /Ad Manager Küllike Johannson SingerSales & Circulation Marek PärnAdvertising Sales Irja Luks, Marek Pärn

Publisher OÜ LinnajuhtCover Photo: Küllike Johannson-Singer © 2011

Even though the year has just begun, it’s already been quite an exciting beginning for Tallinn. January 1st saw not only the joining of Estonia to the common European currency (Euro), but also the gala kick-off of Tallinn as the European Capital of Culture 2011. There are loads of events and celebrations scheduled for this year and if you haven’t yet visited this beautiful and ancient city, there has never been a better time than now. This New Year has also been exciting for Tallinn In Your Pocket, we were chosen as the ‘Official Travel Guide of The European Capital of Culture Tallinn 2011’ and we also launched our increasingly popular iPhone/iTouch/iPad app, now available at the App Store. It’s the same handy guide that, for over 14 years, readers have come to trust - but has now gone mobile and the GPS maps will take you straight to all the best restaurants, hotels and nightspots around the city.

February in Tallinn is almost always a very wintry destination, but the ambiance of the snow dusted cobblestones and the warm glow of the shop and restaurant windows is somehow cosy and comforting. March brings with it the usual half thaw, a bit more sun and encouraging signs that spring is just around the corner.

No matter what your reason for coming to Tallinn in the next couple of months, you can be assured that this handy guide, in print form or as an iPhone app, will indeed point you in the right direction for all the best that the city has to offer. We’ve reviewed all the latest restaurants and nightspots in Old Town and have the most up-to-date information and listings out of any other guide to the city. We know that you’ll enjoy your stay in Tallinn and we trust that you’ll probably check out this fantastic city again.

In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Den Bosch, Utrecht), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Brac and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia (Nis) and in Switzerland (Zurich). A new guide to Minsk, Belarus, will be the next In Your Pocket to launch. We have also begun rolling out iPhone apps to all our cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket guides as apps throughout 2011: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Europe In Your Pocket

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NorthernIrelandIreland

foreWord

February - March 2011tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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International Herald Tribune

Press Box

In 2011 as the European Capital of Culture, Tallinn has an unparalleled opportunity to showcase the diversity and distinctiveness of Estonia’s folk and contemporary culture and the contribution we have made as a nation to Europe’s shared culture. We have been hard at work preparing for this opportunity, and will be using our stories of the seashore to present those with an interest in our culture with snapshots of Tallinn

– past, present and future. These stories have arisen from the words and actions of the people who live here, many of them passed down through the generations.

Telling these stories are not only leading figures from the Estonian cultural scene who have made a name for themselves in the world, but also those just setting out on their cultural journey. The very richness of culture is expressed by the ties between generations and the ability to maintain and reinforce them, after all.

We want people to take something away from their experiences during our year as Capital of Culture that will see them wanting to come back to Tallinn again and again, and discover more and more about Estonia each time. We might live in a small country, but it has a wealth of history and innovative ideas to offer.

Culture is constantly developing, and in that sense there is nothing finite about the Capital of Culture – 2011 is something of an ‘interim report’ on what Tallinn is doing to preserve and further Estonia’s cultural traditions and to create and develop a multicultural environment.

It is said that culture represents a ‘different way of being’. As such, it is ever-evolving, in much the same way as Tallinn itself. We’re sure that all of the initiatives that spread their wings in 2011 will take flight in the progressive cultural environment the year of culture creates, with all of the opportunities it presents. And the sustainability of culture is one of the cornerstones of a nation’s survival.

Culture is born through dialogue, which is why we hope that in addition to taking part in Capital of Culture events, our visitors, from near and far alike, will help to open up our cultural environment even more with their own ideas and actions, and bring with them to Tallinn their own experience in fostering culture.

See you in Tallinn!

Jaanus MutliMember of the management board of Tallinn 2011

Foundation Tallinn 2011 welcomes you to the city!


6 arriving

Tallinn In Your Pocket

BasiCs

By busBuses arrive at the bus station (autobussijaam), (H-4), just off the main highway from Tartu, but Eurolines passengers coming in from Riga or Vilnius should strongly consider hopping off at the much more central Viru väljak stop (ask other passengers where), rather than continuing on to the bus station itself. Once at the station, you'll find left lug-gage in the basement. The cash-only currency exchange takes all major currencies, including Russian roubles, but gives appallingly bad rates. The ATM by the main entrance is probably a better bet.

Getting to town The city centre is just 1km away, down Juhkentali tänav from behind the station. Buses N°17A, 23 and 23A leave directly from the coach area near platform 1, heading to Vabaduse väljak (4th stop) in the centre, while trams N°2 and 4 run from nearby Tartu maantee to Viru väljak (4th stop), also in the centre. A taxi to Old Town should cost about 5.75€.

By trainArriving by train at Tallinn's Balti Jaam (B-1) puts you just a couple hundred metres from the walls of Old Town. Since renovations the station itself is no longer a Soviet-era relic and now includes a nice restaurant and even a day spa, in case you need to unwind after your journey. Left luggage is in the back of the main hall, just off the breezeway that leads to the platforms. The exchange booth (across from left luggage) offers decent rates on all Scandinavian, Baltic and Russian currencies. ATMs are just next to the front doors.

Getting to town: Just cross the street at the underpass and walk up Nunne tänav into Old Town, or take trams N°1 or 2 from behind the station three stops to the Mere pst. stop. Avoid the taxis that wait here.

As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easy-access city. The passenger port and train station are both within shouting distance of the Old Town/centre, while the airport and bus station are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute taxi ride away.

By planeTallinn's airport may be a super-modern affair, but it's so small you're never in danger of getting lost. Once past the luggage receiving area, you'll find ATMs and currency exchange in the centre of the hall; toilets and car rental of-fices are downstairs.

Getting to townA taxi from the airport should cost roughly 8€. The more frugal can take bus N°2, which leaves every 20 - 30 minutes from in front of the arrivals hall, to the centre of town, i.e. the A. Laikmaa stop next to the Viru Hotel/shopping centre. A ticket from the driver costs 1.60€, and the ride takes nine minutes.

By shipMost ferries and catamarans arrive at the Passenger Port (reisisadam), terminals A, B and C. Left Luggage and a helpful tourist information booth can be found in the main hall of terminal A. Exchange offices are plentiful but not always economical. ATMs are just as easy to find. Terminal D, located just across the small neck of water, has similar services, but no tourist information. Lindaline's boats arrive at the neighbouring Linnahall Speedboat Harbour, where a currency exchange booth is open whenever boats are arriv-ing. Rates here are decent.

Getting to townYou can just head for the spires of Old Town on foot, but a taxi from the Passenger Port or the Linnahall should cover the short ride to town for 3.80 - 4.50€.

By carCrossing the border from Latvia is completely hassle-free now that the Baltics belong to Schengen. Getting over the border from Russia will take quite a bit longer. In both cases, be sure to bring your car's registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card. You can also buy insurance right at the border station. Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/h, in the cities 50 km/h, unless otherwise noted, and the headlights have to be always turned on. For fares and regulations on bringing a car by ship from Finland or Sweden, contact the ferry companies in the ‘Getting around' section of this guide.

Tallinn's taxis are notorious for overcharging - even the mayor got ripped off! (Granted, he was, pretending to be an Italian tourist at the time.) Drivers either set high mileage rates or fix their meters to run at light speed. There's no sure-fire way to avoid the cheats. but there are precautions you can take. Get to know the average rates, and try to order a taxi by phone, rather than getting one off the street. Turn to the ‘Getting around' section for phone numbers and fare details. Barring that, you can ask the driver for an estimate of how much the ride will be beforehand. Also see ‘Arriving' for estimates of how much rides should cost from the bus station, airport, etc. To report a cheat, call the 24-hour hotline, tel. 1345.

Taxi rip-offs

arriving


7BasiCs

Tallinn Population: 407,951 (as of 01.03.2010)Density: 2,518.4 inhabitants/km2Ethnic composition: Estonians 52.3%, Russians 38.5%, Ukrainians 3.9%, Others 5.3%

EstoniaPopulation: 1,340,021 (as of 01.01.2010) Density: 31 inhabitants/km2Ethnic composition: Estonians 71.8%, Russians 21.6%, Ukrainians 2.1%, Byelorussians 1.2%, Finns 0.8%, Others 2.5% Territory: 45,227km2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia (and the Baltics) is Suur Munamägi (318m) in Võru County Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa 2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2 Lakes: Lake Peipsi, on the Russian border, covers an area of 3,555km2, of which 1,529km2 is in Estonia. It also holds the title as the 4th largest lake in Europe. Rivers: Estonia’s longest rivers are the Võhandu 162km, Pärnu 144km, and Põltsamaa 135km. Other cities: Tartu 101,169, Narva 68,680, Kohtla-Järve 47,679, Pärnu 45,500 Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October.

Basic data

BordersUntil 1998, Estonia stood staunchly by the conviction that its border with Russia was set by the Tartu Peace Treaty of 1920. In reality however, border controls have been maintained along the line unilaterally set by Russia in 1991. Estonia and Russia initialled a border agreement on March 5, 1998, ceding the disputed territory to Russia and now that Estonia belongs to the European Union, its border with Russia is also the border between the EU and Russia. Schengen border zone - Estonia belongs to the Schengen visa area, which includes 22 EU countries, Norway and Iceland. It means that if you are travelling to Estonia from within the Schengen border control-free area, you will not be required to show any documentation when you arrive in Estonia, whether it be by ship, plane or by car. In fact you will not have to go through customs at all, but each individual country still maintains the right to perform intermittent checks. Of course if you arrive in Estonia from outside the Schengen zone you will still be re-quired to show your passport or EU identity card if applicable. For more information on Schengen and how it might apply to your trip to Estonia, logon to the Estonian Foreign Ministry's website at www.vm.ee.


8 BasiCs BasiCs

Study your geometry to avoid an embarrassing si tuation: A triangle pointing down signifies the men's room (M or Meeste), while the triangle pointing up is the women's room (N or Naiste).

Visi tors with pressing needs won't be left with their legs crossed, as there are qui te a few public toilets around the ci ty. Some can be found at the Viru Gate on Valli (C-3) and there's a Swedish-buil t automatic WC on Toompea Hill (C-1), nicknamed locall y the ‘million-crown toilet' due to the public outcry at i ts construction bill. I t can be found next to the Nevski Cathedral (C/D-1). There's also a few new high-tech, sel f-cleaning ones around the ci ty. The most central is right next to Tammsaare Park (C-3), and others can be found at; Toompark near Bal ti Jaam (B-1), Police Garden (H-3, on Gonsiori street), Kanuti Garden (B-4), Piiskopi Garden (C-1) and in Kadriorg next to the Roheline aas Street parking lot (H-4). However, the fear of being trapped inside may deter the more easil y frightened, no matter how badly they need to ‘pee'.

Public toilets

CustomsEuropean alcoholics rejoice! When you leave Estonia headed to another EU country, you can take out as much booze as you can carry (or convince inspectors is for your personal use). Coming into Estonia from another EU coun-try, each individual aged 18 and over may carry in duty-free 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer and 10 litres of hard alcohol (over 21%alc/vol), 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars and 1kg of pure tobacco. When leaving, beware of stricter tobacco restrictions if you're headed to the UK, Sweden or Finland. Relatively unlucky travellers from non-EU countries can carry in a measly 4 litres of wine (not exceeding 175€ in combined value), 2 litres of beverages up to 21%alc/vol and 1 litre of hard alcohol; 40 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 50g pure tobacco. How much booze and smokes you can take home depends on your own country's restrictions. For more information, contact the Customs Department, Narva mnt. 9j, tel. 880 08 14, [email protected], www.emta.ee.

Getting cashYou should have no problems filling your wallet in Tallinn - cash machines (ATMs) are never hard to find. Big banks are usually your best bet for exchanging currency. At night and on week-ends, however, decent exchanges are more elusive. Tavid at Aia 5 has good rates and also runs an all-night exchange window that will do in a pinch. Their night rates aren't as good as what they are during the daytime. Beware of bright blue and yellow Monex exchanges around town. These have convenient locations and working hours, but generally give unfavourable rates and even charge a 3.20 - 6.40€ commission on each transaction even thought they claim they don’t.

LanguageConfused? Join the crowd. Estonian is completely unre-lated to Russian, Latvian, Swedish, German or any other Indo-European tongue. Along with Finnish and Hungarian, Estonian belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages, thought to have originated somewhere beyond the Urals thousands of years ago. Luckily, the younger generation and those in the tourist industry speak English.

January 1 New Year’s DayFebruary 24 Independence Day (1918)March 21 (2011) Good Friday March 23 (2011) Easter Sunday May 1 May DayJune 23 Victory Day (1919 Battle of Võnnu - Cēsis)June 24 St. John’s Day (Midsummer)August 20 Day of Restoration of Independence (1991) December 24 Christmas EveDecember 25 Christmas DayDecember 26 Boxing Day

National holidays

MoneyTere Euro! As of January 1, 2011 Estonia joined the common European currency, good news for all of the tourists who visit Estonia from countries that already use the Euro. If you happen to come from a country that does not use the Euro, it should also be easier to change your money before you arrive as most banks around the world stock this currency. Standard Euro denominations are legal tender, however you may find it difficult to pay with any bills over 100. All ATMs operate on international systems. Credit cards are easy to use - major hotels, most restaurants and a pretty much all downtown shops accept Visa, Mastercard and EC. American Express, Globus and Diner's Club are less common.

ReligionSome locals will tell you that Estonians are all tree-worshiping pagans at heart, but the truth is that this isn't a very religious country at all. There is no state religion, and according to the 2000 census, only 31.8% of the population claims any religious affiliation. Of those that do, about 180,000 are Lutheran and 170,000 Russian Orthodox.

BasiCs


9BasiCs

Tallinn Traveller Info C-2, Vana-Posti 2, tel. (+372) 55 54 21 11, [email protected], www.traveller.ee. Just steps from the 'official' tourist information office, this alternative tourist information point is run by local young people for travellers of all ages. It has the inside scoop on what's happening each night on the entertainment scene, where the locals like to eat and which hostels have vacancies as well as some groovy, cheap tours (see 'Sightseeing' section). They've also got free internet access, a funky Tallinn map and can assist you in book-ing ferry passage, accommodations and so much more. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Tourist Information Centre in Old Town C-2, Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 645 77 77, fax (+372) 645 77 78, [email protected], www.tourism.tallinn.ee. The city's official tourist information point is the best equipped to answer any question. QO-pen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Tourist Information Centre in Viru Shopping Centre C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. (+372) 610 15 57/(+372) 610 15 58, fax (+372) 610 15 59, [email protected], www.tourism.tallinn.ee. A scaled-down version of the above, this one stays open later. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Tourist information points

The Tallinn First Aid hotline tel. 697 11 45, can provide treatment advice in English, and if need be, direct you to the appropriate hospital. If you need cough syrup at 03:00, try the round-the-clock Tõnismäe pharmacy (see pharmacies). For dramatic situations that require an ambulance, call tel. 112. Emergency operators speak English.

Urgent care

Tax free shopping'Tax-free' shopping is finally starting to gain popularity in Estonia and if you are a non-EU resident and plan to spend over 38€ on electronics, clothing or even souvenirs - it just might be worth trying to claim the tax back. When making a purchase just present your passport, ask for a tax-free stamp on your receipt and take receipts along with unused purchases to the customs office at the airport or border-crossings into Russia when you leave the country. At the airport, anything checked into luggage will need to be claimed at Customs before you enter the security gates, items in your hand luggage can be claimed from the Customs booth between gates 5 and 7. Visit www.globalrefund.com for more details.

VisasBecause Estonia is in the European Union, lucky citizens can conveniently enter the country with just a national ID card. All others need valid passports. You can enter Estonia visa-free and stay 90 days if you're a citizen of any EU country, Norway, Iceland, Switzerland, Canada, USA, Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Argentina, South Korea and a number of other coun-tries listed on the website below. All others, including South Africans, Russians, Byelorussians and Ukrainians do need a visa to come to Estonia. South Africans may enter Estonia if they hold a visa for Latvia or Lithuania. Anyone staying in Estonia for more than 90 days (180 days for UK citizens) needs either residents permit or a visa, though there are certain very specific exceptions for EU citizens. For all the details, contact the consular department of the Foreign Ministry, tel. 631 74 40, or check their website, www.vm.ee, which has more information than you'll ever need.

Well, the sky is not actually falling, but if you happen to find yourself in the wrong place at the wrong time you might just regret your visit to Old Town in the winter or spring. Due to the many slanted, old rooftops and combined with the fact that these hundred-year old structures have poor insula-tion compared to modern build-ings - snow, icy temperatures and thawing conditions do produce falling ice and snow on the sidewalks of Old Town. Many building owners do put out slanted wooden sticks against their buildings and sometimes even hazard tape as well - but some don’t, so be very careful to look up at the rooftops and check weather conditions before treading on the sidewalks. Your best bet is to walk in the middle of the cobblestone streets to avoid a trip to the hospital. Consider yourself warned, every year a few tourists get seriously injured because of the falling sky.

The sky is falling!

www.inyourpocket.com


10 history history

Estonia through the ages

3,000BCFinno-Ugric tribes arrive from the east and settle along the north Baltic coast, mixing with Neolithic tribes.

1st CenturyRoman historian Tacitus writes of a local tribe called Aestii.

12th CenturyIn 1154, Arab cartographer al-Idrisi marks Tallinn on his map as Koluvan, describing it as a seasonal stronghold - the first mention of the city in historic records.

13th CenturyIn 1202 the Pope calls for a crusade against the pagans around the Baltic Sea. Bishop Albert founds the Order of the Knights of the Sword. This leads to four decades of bloody battles and shifting alliances among the Germans (based in Riga), Danes, Swedes, Russians, Lithuanians and local tribes. In 1219 King Voldemar II of Denmark takes the stronghold of the north Estonian Rävala people as a base for his forces (hence the name Tallinn: Taani = Danish, linn = city). German merchants settle the town, and in 1248 are granted the right to use Lübeck Law, effectively making Tallinn an autonomous entity. In the 1280s, Tallinn joins the powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities.

14th CenturyEstonian towns become important trading links between East and West and grow in size and strength. Ethnic Estonians, however, remain serfs while German landowners reap the benefits. The bloody St George’s Night Uprising of 1343 convinces the Danish King to sell his provinces to the German Knights two years later.

16th CenturyEstonians suffer another bout of shifting borders and imposed military service during the Livonian War (1558-1583). Ivan the Terrible advances claims on Estonia. Denmark and Poland enter the fray, but Sweden quickly gains control of the territory. Intermittent warfare with Poland lasts into the next century.

17th CenturyThe Swedish period in Estonian history is marked by cultural advancement. Tartu University opens in 1632 and by the close of the century nearly every parish has a school. In 1645 Denmark cedes Saaremaa to Sweden, joining Estonia under a single force for the first time.

18th CenturySweden battles Russia, Denmark and Poland in the Northern War (1700-1721), losing Estonia to Russia in 1710. During the 200 years of tsarist rule that follow, Estonia’s peasants live in the same conditions of near-slavery as the serfs of Russia. In 1739 the Bible is published in Estonian.

19th CenturySo-called Estophiles study the local language and found consciousness-raising societies. Literacy spreads and Estonian-language periodicals appear. The second half of the century is marked by the National Awakening: the formation of a national consciousness among Estonians and an active period of scholarship and literary creation. The first song festival, held in Tartu in 1869, represents the first public demonstration of Estonian national identity. Tsar Alexander III stifles this when he comes to the throne in 1881, initiating a period of intense Russification.

The first republicEstonia takes advantage of the chaos in Russia caused by WWI and the Bolshevik Revolution, declaring independence on February 24, 1918. But by the end of February, Germany takes the infant country by force. When Germany capitulates in November Red forces move in. The War for Independence lasts 13 months. In the Tartu Peace Treaty, signed February 2, 1920, Soviet Russia renounces claims to the territory “for all time”. In 1921 the Republic of Estonia is accepted into the League of Nations. Reforms progress quickly and social welfare laws are on a par with those in Europe. A political crisis in the mid-1930s brings the young republic to the verge of authoritarianism. President Konstantin Päts bans political parties and restricts civil rights but maintains popular support.

World War II On August 23, 1939, the USSR and Germany sign the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact, in which secret protocols carve Eastern Europe into spheres of influence. On June 16, 1940, the USSR accuses the Baltic states of aggression and demands the right to occupy them. ‘Elections’ take place July 14 - 15, with Soviet-approved candidates. The phoney parliament applies for admittance to the USSR, which is granted August 6. WWII continues to rage across Europe and by the end of 1941 the Nazis win Estonia from the Soviets. The German occupation lasts three years. Soviet forces begin air attacks March 15, 1942, and cause serious damage in the infamous attack of March 9, 1944. By September the Germans have fled. Estonia is declared a Republic again on September 18, but Soviet forces reach Tallinn four days later.

Stick around Tallinn long enough and you’re bound to hear the name Kalev bandied about. There are countless Kalev sports teams and there’s even a Kalev brand of chocolate. But just who was this Kalev person?

Kalev is in fact a mythical giant from Tallinn’s distant past who is credited with founding the city. As the story goes, Kalev was sailing the seas looking for a spot to land and establish a kingdom. Eventually a prophecy led him to what is now Estonia’s capital. Upon Kalev’s death, his wife Linda was so stricken with grief that she over-did his burial mound, piling enough stones on his grave to form Toompea hill, which to this day looms over Old Town. When the contentious Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral was built on the hill at the beginning of the 20th century, a rumour was spread that Kalev’s ghost would haunt anyone who interfered with the construction. Nobody did.

Arguably an even more important figure in the Estonian tradition is Kalev’s son, Kalevipoeg. Tales of Kalevi-poeg’s adventures were set down in the form of an epic poem of the same name by Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald and published in 1857. At the time Estonia was undergo-ing a literary and cultural awakening, and Kalevipoeg became both a focal point for national identity and a major step in founding an Estonian literary tradition.

Tallinn‘s founding legend

history


11history

Hello TereGoodbye Head aegaPlease PalunThank you AitähExcuse me VabandustYes JahNo EiZero NullOne ÜksTwo KaksThree KolmFour Neli Five ViisSix Kuus Seven Seitse Eight KaheksaNine Üheksa Ten KümmeHundred SadaThousand TuhatPush (on a door) LükkaPull (on a door) TõmbaWhere is... ? Kus asub...?How much does ... cost? Kui palju maksab...Bon appetit! Head isu!One beer, please! Palun üks õlu!Cheers! Terviseks!What’s your name? Mis sinu nimi on?You have beautiful eyes. Sul on ilusad silmad.Will you marry me? Kas sa abielluks minuga?

Key phrases

Soviet occupationIn the first years of the renewed Soviet regime, 36,000 Estonians are arrested and accused of aiding the Nazis. At the same time 30,000 - 35,000 people flee to the woods to resist the regime as Forest Brothers. In the years following, Estonia endures political repression and isolation, while Estonians who had fled to the West try to keep their culture alive in exile. During the post-Stalin period, life in Estonia takes on a bureaucratic routine similar to that found elsewhere in the USSR. Over the coming decades, hundreds of thousands of ethnic Russians are sent to live in the Estonian territory. In the 1970s and 80s, Finnish TV broadcasts give Tallinn residents a glimpse of life in the West.

1956Surviving Estonians who had been deported to Siberia are allowed to return.

1977February 24 The blue-black-white flag rises illegally over the Vanemuine Theatre in Tartu to mark the 59th anniversary of the first Estonian Republic.

1980July 19-August 3 Moscow Olympic Games. Tallinn’s Olympic yachting centre, Pirita and Olümpia hotels and airport terminal are built for the occasion.

Road to independence1987What had started as a series of environmental protests quickly develops into a new National Awakening as demonstrations against the system become more open. 1988 June 10-14 Over 100,000 people a night pack the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds. The events of the summer are henceforth known as the Singing Revolution. September 11 More than 300,000 Estonians gather at the Song Grounds and hear Trivimi Velliste make the first public demand for independence.November 16 In a move known as the beginning of the end for the Soviet Union, the Supreme Soviet of the Estonian SSR passes a declaration of sovereignty.

1989February 24 The Estonian flag is raised over Tallinn, inciting protests and massive strikes. August 23 Two mill ion people join hands along the 600km road between Tallinn and Vilnius to mark the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. November 12 The Estonian Supreme Soviet nulli fies Estonia’s entry into the USSR.

1990March 23 The Estonian Communist Party declares independence from the central party.May 8 The ESSR is officially renamed the Republic of Estonia, despite not yet having declared independence.

1991March 3 78% of voters cast their vote for independence in a referendum.August 19 During the failed Moscow coup, additional Soviet military units are moved to Estonia from Pskov, Russia. August 20 Estonia declares independence. August 23 Lenin’s statue comes down in Tallinn.August 24 Russia recognises Estonian independence.

A new republic1992After prices rose by 629% in 1991, the government introduces ration coupons.June 20 The Estonian kroon becomes the first national currency introduced in the former Soviet Union.

1994September 28 852 people perish when the 15,000-tonne ferry Estonia sinks en route to Stockholm.

1998March 31 EU begins accession talks with Estonia.

1999November 13 Estonia becomes the 135th member of the World Trade Organization (WTO).

2004March 29 Estonia joins NATO. May 1 Estonia becomes an EU member as the bloc expands to encompass ten new states.

2007April 26 - 27 Street riots, mainly involving young, ethnic Russians, break out after protests over the relocation of a Soviet Army monument from the city centre. December 21 Estonia joins Schengen.

2009June 22 The Freedom Monument is unveiled.

2011January 1 Estonia joins the common European currency.


12 Culture & events Culture & events

Main events Starlight Cabaret: Glamour Express 20th Century World Tour Every Saturday between Feb 04 – April 30, 19:00, Sokos Hotel Viru (p.28), Restaurant Merineitsi, v i r u . r e s e r v a t i o n @sok.f i,w w w.piletilevi.ee. People are always looking for entertaining ways to spend an evening out and the Merineitsi’s production of ‘Starlight Cabaret Glamour Express certainly fits the bill. You’ll be treated to a full evening, which includes a complimentary glass of sparkling wine, a three-course meal, a cabaret show and even free entrance to the always fun, Café Amigo for some dancing. Tickets cost 39.94€ and if you ask us, it’s well worth the price.

Winter Jazz 2011 February 12 - March 18, various locations, [email protected], www.jazzkaar.ee. Jazzkaar, Autumn Jazz, Christmas Jazz and now Winter Jazz, you’d think by now that the organisers would be sick of all that Jazz, but we assure you, they are not. This event happens to be on a smaller scale than some of the other festivals that Jazzkaar puts on and it will feature some pretty talented Estonian vocals such

as Kadri Voorand, musicians the likes of the Tõnu Naissoo and a few foreign acts such as Donkey Monkey (Fr-Jp), Lucia Recio (Es), Didier Petit (Fr), Rouge Madame (Est-Fr) and Sergio Bastos with Raivo Tafenau Quartet (Bra-Est) which certainly lends this event a more international feeling this year.

Dogshow 2011 March 05-06, Saku Suurhall (p.20), www.sakusuurhall.ee, www.dogshow.ee. How much is that doggy in the window? Canines from all over Estonia will make their way to Saku Suurhall to try and prove that they are - well, top dog. Sanctioned for the first time ever by the Estonian Kennel Association, the local dogs have been practising all year and with their reputations and some serious trophies at stake they are all pretty nervous about it. We wish these pedigrees all the best in what is bound to be a pretty hairy competition.

While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London, Paris or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls. The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several interesting museums, galleries, and even a couple art-house cinemas. If you noticed that the events listed here are a little on the light side, that’s because so many events this year fall under the realm of the European Capital of Culture 2011 and so we’ve dedicated four pages to list events from the official Tal-linn 2011 programme, starting on page 14. If you’re still thirsting for more, an exhaustive calendar of culture is available at www.culture.ee.

Tickets to most major events are available from: Piletilevi C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 14 44, www.piletilevi.ee. Ticketpro, D/E-3/4, Solaris Centre, Estonia pst. 9, tel. 624 80 32, www.ticketpro.ee. Estonia's major concert organiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box office in Tallinn at E-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 00, fax 614 77 09, [email protected], www.concert.ee.

Tickets you say?

Cut Copy March 14, Rock Café (p.54), www.ticketpro.ee. What to say about Cut Copy... well, they are an electropop band from Australia started by a couple of friends, one of whom was a graphic designer and a DJ. The story is a little vague as to why they started such a

fringe musical group, but our theory is that they really liked the 80's not the 1880's, the 1980's. They probably yearned for those simpler times - times when they could wear skinny jeans, sport shirts with large geometric shapes, play Pacman on the Atari and hang out with girls who wear shoulder pads... wait, those things are all back in fashion. Well, good on them then, they picked a musical style that would give them all these things and still allow them to earn a bit of a living at it too. All jokes aside though, if you are into this genre these lads are quite decent.

Roxette March 18, Saku Suurhall (p.20), www.sakusuurhall.ee, www.ticketpro.ee. Roxette! You don't have to put on a red light... okay, wrong artist and it wasn't Roxette but Roxanne. With such a long-lived career behind them, chances are there are even several generations of fans who all might check out this show. Our mothers would certainly go see them, as would we and our daughters too - not sure what that says about us, but it certainly shows that Roxette appeals to a wide audience. They'll be performing songs from their new album 'Charm School' as well as a decent amount of hits from their glory days to be sure. Certainly a concert worth seeing, even if you no longer fit into your acid-washed jeans.

Fed Cup World Group II Estonia vs Spain February 05-06, Tere Tennishall (Marsi 4), w w w . t e r e t e n n i s . e e , www.piletilevi.ee. I know we don't normally list too many sporting events here at Tallinn In Your Pocket but just put this image in your head. Imagine for a moment that you are sitting in the bleachers of a tennis court and a bunch of hot blondes in short skirts come out and start hitting balls around with rackets, all the while grunting and groaning and the short skirts are flying everywhere - that's only one half of the story, now imagine a bunch of raven-haired, tanned skinned fiery Spanish women, also wearing the same kind of outfits, join the blondes and battle it out to advance to the next rounds - I think we made our point.

Lucia Recio

Photo: Ricky Diver

Culture & events


13Culture & events

Kylie Minogue - Aphrodite - Les folies Tour 2011 February 23, Saku Suurhall (p.20), www.sakusuurhall.ee, www.ticketpro.ee. Kylie Minogue has been entertaining, largly, teenage audiences for more years than she would like to admit. In fact, we had her LP given to us by a local DJ friend about a year before she made it really big - we were also teenagers then and really got a groove on to her hit 'Locomotion', we might have even secretly had a crush on her and her, then, big hair. Regardless of whether or not you would consider yourself a fan of the multi-platinum-selling artist who still looks pretty great in spandex, or less, at the age of 42, this is kind of one of those shows you just might have to go see if you happen to be hanging around in Tallinn on the 23rd of February. Her tracks are indeed catchy, her shows are full of lights and glitter and it might even be a good chance to do some research into youth culture if you know what we mean. Tickets cost between 50-160€ and were still available at press time, but if they do sell out before you get a chance to snatch some up you might be able to buy them outside the venue from a guy named Ivan - maybe.

Do the locomotion

Tallinn's cinemas are fairly central, and all films except kids' films are shown in their original language with Es-tonian subtitles. You can always find out what's playing by calling the 1182 infoline. Operators speak English.

Artis D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 663 13 80, [email protected], [email protected], www.kino.ee. Tallinn's two-theatre, art-house cinema has a full schedule of independent films, Estonian pro-ductions, shorts and kids' films. Tickets 4.15 - 4.79€. Q Show times vary, see website for details. J

Coca-Cola Plaza G-3, Hobujaama 5, tel. (+372) 1182, [email protected], www.forumcinemas.ee. This high-tech, 11-screen super cinema is most people's first stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Now even featuring a 3D theatre. Tickets for evening shows cost 4.10€, 3D - 5.70€.

Kosmos H-2, Pärnu mnt 45, tel. (+372) 1182, www.forumcinemas.ee. Run by the same company as Coca-Cola Plaza, this two-screen, Soviet-era cinema also has a strong Hollywood bent but is a more thrifty choice. Tickets for evening shows cost 2.80€. Q See website for show times.

Solaris Cinema D/E-3/4, Estonia pst 9, tel. (+372) 16105, [email protected], www.solariskino.ee. Located in the Solaris Centre, this is the most state of the art cinema in Tallinn. Tickets for evening shows cost 4.15€, 3D - 5.75€.

Cinemas

Photo: William Baker

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Here are the official events of the European Capital of Culture: Tallinn 2011. The sea will play a big role in this year's celebrations, therefore the distance to the Baltic Sea from the venue is mentioned in the contacts for each event.

PERFORMING ARTS AUDIO-VISUAL ARTS LITERATURE SPORTS FOLK CULTURE ART DESIGN MUSIC INTERDISCIPLINARY

Chinese New Year carnival traditional carnival / fi reworks / Oriental culturePlace: Freedom Square & Song Festival GroundsDate: 3–5 February 2011Creators and organisers : Tallinn’s Cultural Heritage Department in association with the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China & the Cultural Offi ce of the Beijing City GovernmentDistance from the sea: 500 - 1 kmwww.tallinn.ee/hiinauusaasta

3 February 2011 marks the start of the Year of the Rabbit in eastern calendars, and the event will be marked with a huge Chinese New Year festival. Events designed for the whole family will be running from � ursday to Saturday. � e festivities will feature guest artists from Beijing and include a dragon and lion dance, traditional dances with fans and lanterns by brightly-dressed young ladies, martial arts performances, a fi re circus and fi reworks displays. � ere will also be a market off ering Chinese goods and delicious food.

Object no. 2011: Innerworldpublic space / installation / inclusion / summerPlace: Freedom SquareDate: February - March 2011, opening 27 FebruaryCreator and organiser: NPO SiseilmDistance from the sea: 1 km

Life is a series of small problems. If it’s dark, how do you make it light? If it’s cramped, where do you fi nd space? If a person’s eyes are dull, how do you make them sparkle? If you’re sad, where do you draw happiness from? If it’s stuff y, where do you get some air? If you have form, where do you fi nd content? If you have yin, where does yang come from? And in the northern climes of Estonia, if it’s cold, how do you make yourself warm? Sometimes it seems as though it’s impossible to fi nd answers to these questions. But sometimes you need to put the impossible to the test, even though the result may be as suicidal as wearing nothing but a tie, however stylish, against the cold.� is work is presented as an installation. It is knowingly naïve and clearly wants to do the impossible: condense the entire Estonian art world into one work. � e installation focuses on people. It attempts to bring this living art as close to the people of the city as possible, in the most direct sense of the word – and at its deepest and most immediate level.

Simpel Session 11 skateboard / BMX / extreme sports / experience sports / street culture / youthPlace:Saku ArenaDate: 2–6 February 2011Creators and organisers: NPO ElamussportDistance from the sea: 600 mwww.session.ee

Over the years, Simpel Session has gone from a local competition to an internationally known and loved extreme sports event, drawing more and more foreign competitors and famous riders each year and reaching an audience of millions worldwide through the medium of video. Simpel Session 2011 is a weekend full of spectacular experiences from around 200 top cyclists and skateboarders from all over the world. Among other things, Simpel Session will allow onlookers to vicariously enjoy top-ranking international and Estonian skateboarding and BMX stars. As always, the competition will take place in an infectious and unbridled atmosphere. Besides the fi lm festival and various galas and banquets that also take place, the programme includes a number of surprises related to the Capital of Culture.

Perfect Silence Festival silence / beauty / ECM / chamber musicPlace: Kumu Art Museum (see p.18)Date: 10–13 February 2011Creators and organisers: Tallinn PhilharmonicDistance from the sea: 1 kmwww.fi lharmoonia.ee

� is festival, with its unique chamber-like atmosphere, presents works which are rarely heard in Estonia and which are largely connected with productions by the highly respected record company ECM. � e 2011 festival will feature not only the Tallinn Chamber Orchestra, but also Kayhan Kalhor, an extraordinary performer and improviser of Persian music, and Greek composer Eleni Karaindrou’s music from the fi lm Dust of Time. Following a screening of Peter Guyer and Norbert Wiedmer’s fi lm Sound of Silence there will also be a chance for the audience to meet ECM founder and director Manfred Eicher.

Youth Winds Fest – parade of youth orchestrasmusic / youth / wind orchestras / brass ensemblesPlace: Estonia Concert Hall (see p.20)Date: 13 February 2011Creators and organisers: Aavo Ots Music StudioDistance from the sea: 800 metres www.musicstudio.ee

Youth Winds Fest is a new festival aimed at young people and bringing together wind instrument performances. � e schedule melds the infl uences of musical styles and line-ups from various eras, as well as interesting venues: glamorous baroque in the Town Hall performed by a brass band and trumpet solo, spiritual music in churches, choral music and jazz in the Old Town, and joint performances with guest stars.Headliners include Estonia’s best young wind instrument orchestras, brass bands and soloists, as well as guests from Russia, Lithuania, Latvia, Finland and Spain. Local performers include the orchestra from Tallinn Music High School, the Estonian Youth Wind Orchestra, the South Estonian Youth Wind Orchestra, the Brass Academy band and Estonian Youth Brass.

Valentine’s Day song competition – Tallinn 2011song competition / family fun / Valentine’s DayPlace: Nokia Concert Hall Date: 14 February 2011Distance from the sea: 850 metres

� e Valentine’s Day song competition organised by Tallinn City Government invites composers from all over the country to create beautiful songs about love and friendship with lyrics in Estonian. � e jury’s top three selections and the public’s favourite will be announced at the song competition’s grand fi nale at Nokia Concert Hall on Valentine’s Day – 14 February 2011 – where all ten fi nalists will get to perform.

Jõhvi Ballet Festival ballet / dance artPlace: Tallinn, Jõhvi, RakvereDate: 25–27 February 2011Creators and organisers: Eesti Kontsert & Jõhvi Concert HallDistance from the sea: varieswww.concert.ee

Ida-Viru County, known as an old industrial region, will be playing host to a fairy tale-like ballet festival in February. � e art form is held in great regard by the large Russian-speaking community living in the region, and the festival represents an excellent opportunity to create a cultural bridge between the dance schools of the east and west.Flying the fl ag at this year’s event will be Scandinavian ballet, with a particular focus on Finland. Kuopio festival director Jorma Uotinen, celebrating his 60th birthday, and Estonia’s own Kaie Kõrb, celebrating her 50th, will be performing together for the fi rst time during the festival. ‘Solo for three’, a performance by a guest troupe from the Czech National � eatre, is an enthralling piece inspired by the lives and songs of three singing poets from the 1960s and 1970s – Jacques Brel, Vladimir Vysotsky and Karel Kryl.

Silent pictures go loud silent fi lm / contemporary music / world musicPlace: Kumu auditorium & Russian Cultural Centre Date: 19 February–5 March 2011Creators and organisers: Tallinn 2011, NPO PÖFF & NPO Rampa de OrgDistance from the sea: 200 - 1000 metreswww.ahhaa.ee

A long time ago, all fi lms were silent. Even after the soundtrack arrived, silent fi lms retained a certain charm and mystery – a diff erent backdrop makes the fi lm itself diff erent. In 2011, a year in which Tallinn will be telling seaside stories, Estonian and world classics meet acclaimed sound technicians representing diff erent styles and maritime countries. Five concert screenings will bring surprising soundscapes in which the silent fi lms are seen almost entirely in their original form – the only diff erent thing being the soundtracks, developed by talented and internationally acclaimed musicians over half a year. � e genres and themes fl ow into one another and the silent fi lms shout: “� e world is one and cultural boundaries exist only in outdated thoughts”.

� e multiculturalmerry-go-roundfolk culture / national cuisine / exhibition / master classes /music / dance / national minoritiesPlace: Blue pavilion of the Estonian Fair CentreDate: 23–27 February 2011Distance from the sea: 500 metres www.lyra.ee

� e organiser of this festival, Lyra, is one of the most important cultural organisations in Estonia related to national minorities. Over fi ve days it will be presenting a bright and colourful cultural programme representing the customs, dances, games and art of almost all of the nationalities living in Estonia and featuring almost 90 groups.

Naapurivisa festival rock music / sea / cruise / Finnish-Estonian tiesPlace: Rock CafeDate: 11 February 2011Organiser: OÜ Soovikontsert

� e Naapurivisa festival, which has been running since 2004, is designed to promote Finnish and Estonian rock culture. It has featured such performers as Ismo Alanko, Kotiteollisuus, Viikate, CMX, Maj Karma, Kauko Röyhkä, 22 Pistepirkko, Metsatöll, Kosmikud, J.M.K.E and Röövel Ööbik. � e main stage will welcome the hottest bands from Finland and Estonia among them Apulanta from Finland, while smaller stages will feature more alternative live artists and DJs.

Fourth world martial arts games martial arts / sport / culture / ethnic minorities / exotica /competition / demonstration events / show / internationalPlace: : Estonian Fair Centre (blue pavilion), Saku SuurhallDate: 23–27 February 2011, opening ceremony 25 February 2011Creators and organisers: Eesti Taekwon-do Union & Estonian Martial Arts AssociationDistance from the sea: 400 metreshttp://www.games2011.org/, www.games2011.org, www.tkd.ee

Tallinn has the honour of hosting the fi rst world martial arts championships to be held outside of Asia. Over 2500 participants from 60 countries are expected to attend this major international event. Over fi ve days, various duel-type tournaments as well as a martial arts and folklore festival will be held, along with a number of cultural events, and a creative exhibition featuring diff erent nationalities will be on display. � e opening ceremony will be the international martial arts and folklore festival, where various cultural traditions will be united using modern light and sound solutions, and a number of demonstration performances will be given by masters along with entertaining exotic creative groups. � e programme of course includes dizzying leaps, smashing of objects, exotic dances and a fi re show too!

Heliosphere 2011 festival music / visuals / ambient / experimental / psychedelicPlace: Von Krahl � eatreDate: 24–27 February 2011Creators and organisers: Talk Left-Handed concert agencyDistance from the sea: 1 kmwww.heliospherefestival.com, www.talklefthanded.com

With the Heliosphere festival, Talk Left-Handed off ers us a chance to step outside our everyday world and let ourselves be shaken by walls of noise and soothed by a matrix of sounds. � e festival is like the sea – stormy, with crashing waves, and then quiet, with a surface as smooth as glass. Introducing intensely emotional music and visuals that take you on a journey, Heliosphere puts festival-goers back in touch with their souls.Performing at the festival will be Circle (Finland), Nadja (Canada), Amenra (Belgium), Ben Frost (Iceland), MoHa! (Norway), Wiracki + Suka Off (Poland), Manifesto (Sweden), Five Seconds To Leave (Czech Republic), Esa Z Lesa (Czech Republic), Rovar17 (Hungary), Oyaarss (Latvia), Tesa (Latvia), Edgars Rubenis (Latvia) and Dark Buddha Rising (Finland).


Maslenitsa traditional culture / Shrove Tuesday / music / dance / traditions / partyPlace: Tallinn’s Song Festival GroundsDate: 5 March 2011Creator and organiser: NPO Minu LiinDistance from the sea: 500 m

Estonians have many interesting and unusual Shrovetide traditions, such as sledding to predict the length to which their fl ax will grow, eating pig’s trotters and buns with whipped cream, and making children’s tops out of pork bones! Other peoples living in Estonia have their own Shrovetide traditions. What is eaten on Shrove Tuesday in the Russian culture? What games are played? What kinds of dances are there? What is the secret of making gigantic pancakes? Why are hay-stuff ed scarecrows set on fi re at the end of the festivities? Maslenitsa is the best way to get acquainted with Russian Shrovetide customs and enjoy a fantastic carnival.

Today at the opera youth / theatre / music / artPlace: Schools all over Estonia & National Opera EstoniaDate: performances for the public 12–13 March 2011Creator and organiser: National Opera EstoniaDistance from the sea: Walkable and singablewww.opera.ee, junior.opera.ee

Nearly 500 children aged 10–16 from all over the country are preparing a programme truly their own, to be performed in March on the prestigious stage of the Estonia Opera. In this project, the children are creating an entire musical performance from beginning to end based on their own ideas – as an orchestra, singers, dancers, artists, set designers, technicians and costume designers. Two performances will be held on the Estonia stage where visitors can attend. � is event steps outside of the box of traditional theatre and will be a fun touchstone for everyone. In March, we will see and hear what surprises are in store from the largest number of young performers ever assembled on the Estonia stage.

Discover Estonia’s mythical creatures! exhibition / entertainment / science / education / history / literature / folklore / children / youth / families / touristsPlace: Energia discovery centre (Põhja pst 29)Date: February–May 2011Creators and organisers: Energy discovery centreDistance from the sea: 300 mwww.energiakeskus.ee

� is exhibition unites mythology and technology. Using technology and interactivity, Estonia’s old and new myths become a medium for visitors to experiment and discover. � e exhibition explores the specifi c eff ects of each entity and modern technology is brought in to demonstrate how the creatures operate. Visitors are able to study creatures of which little is spoken, or who are hidden and about which therefore little is known. Characters that visitors will encounter include mermaids, marsh trolls, the northern lights, the Tartu spirit and the Northern Toad. As for newer myths, visitors will also learn about nebulous creatures, bug monsters and others.


Classical Radio concert week devoted to Tallinn Capital of Culture 2011 on Euroradio music / concert / radio / EuropePlace: Estonia Concert Hall & St. Nicholas’ ChurchDate: 7–13 March 2011Creator and organiser: KlassikaraadioDistance from the sea:1 kmklassikaraadio.err.ee/klassik/tallinn2011.htm

Estonian Classical radio will broadcast a series of concerts introducing Tallinn’s music life to all of the countries in the European Broadcasting Union, reaching over a million listeners. Many Estonian and chamber musicians and groups will perform at the Estonia Concert Hall and St. Nicholas’ Church: the Estonian National Symphony Orchestra, the Nordic Symphony Orchestra, the National Opera Estonia, Estonian National Men’s Choir, the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir, Vox Clamantis and Hortus Musicus. Among others, the programme includes a premiere of a new work by Erkki-Sven Tüür, the Estonian National Men’s Choir’s programme dedicated to the anniversary of the March 1944 bombing of Tallinn, a Vox Clamantis programme, a gala evening devoted to Estonian performers, and a concert by Kadri Voorand from a jazz club and a folk music concert.

Shrovetide week at the Open Air Museumfamilies / international visitors / students / companies / folk culture / tradition / values / education / ethnography / history / folk dance / folk costume / folk games / traditional food / folk belief / theatre / workshops / folk handicraftPlace: Estonian Open Air MuseumDate: 5–8 March 2011Creator and organiser: Estonian Open Air MuseumDistance from the sea: 30 metres

In the Capital of Culture year, the motto of the Open Air Museum is ‘Time has a story’, and seven great events will be held. One of them is Shrove Tuesday – the last day of winter fun and feasting before the season of Lent and fasting. On this day, people eat pig’s trotters and rich pea soup, fashion tops out of bone, play Shrovetide games and slide over the snow as far as they can. It’s all part of ancient fertility rituals and making sure that the year ahead will be a good one. In the old days, Shrove Tuesday was a women’s holiday, and the fairer sex were forbidden from doing almost any work. Instead, they would go to the tavern, have a drink, dance and predict the future using the thigh bones of a pig. In 2011, Shrove Tuesday falls on 8 March – International Women’s Day – and thus it has particularly strong feminine power.

Erkki-Sven Tüür’s Awakeningcontemporary classical music / choir music / world premierePlace: Estonia Concert HallDate: Premiere on 10 March 2011Creators and organisers: Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir & Eesti KontsertDistance from the sea: 800 metreswww.epcc.eewww.concert.ee

Erkki-Sven Tüür, one of the best-known Estonian composers, is writing a new piece for the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir and Chamber Orchestra to mark Tallinn’s year as European Capital of Culture. � e composer says that the work examines the mystery of spring rebirth: “It is the meeting of the almost pantheistic-ancient Estonia and Christianity. It features some of the core liturgical texts related to Easter (in Latin), but also the poetry of Hölderlin (in German) and that of Juhan Liiv, Ernst Enno, Jaan Kaplinski and Doris Kareva (in Estonian).”Tüür’s piece is to be performed by the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir and Sinfonietta Riga, conducted by Daniel Reuss. � e concert will be broadcast on Klassikaraadio. Awakening, as a work carrying the message of the Capital of Culture, will not only be performed in Tallinn, but also in Tartu, Riga and Berlin in the spring.

Spring Strolls through the City Old Town / community / inclusion / springPlace: Tallinn’s Old TownDate: 20 March 2011 – vernal equinox Creators and organisers: Kodulinna MajaDistance from the sea: 800 metreswww.kodulinnamaja.ee

‘Spring Strolls through the City’ is a Kodulinna Maja tradition designed to mark the arrival of spring. It also reminds those taking part of just how cosy and culturally rich an environment the Old Town is. � e coming of spring will be celebrated in the Capital of Culture with a broad range of events, including concerts, performances and guided walks through the Old Town led by leading cultural fi gures.

Estonian Music Days 2011music / contemporary culturePlace: Various concert venues in TallinnDate: 21–26 March 2011Creators and organisers: Estonian Composers UnionDistance from the sea: Varieswww.helilooja.ee/emp

Representing a diff erent taste, but meant for listeners with fi nely-tuned ears, the Estonian Music Days have been one of the country’s most important festivals for over 30 years, focussing on local composers, but balancing home-grown and foreign and chamber music and more monumental work, and off ering more and more genres and styles each year. Gates in the capital of culture’s wall of sound: In 2011, EMP will be looking to expand the city’s cultural space outside the city centre. As part of the festival, all eight of Tallinn’s districts will have a composer in residence who will meet the public and introduce their work at local cultural centres. Also invited from the capitals of Estonia’s neighbouring countries will be composers with ensembles, so as to bring their own musical off erings and take home keepsakes from the Estonian music scene.

‘Max Moda 2011’ – 5th international children’s and youth fashion theatre festivalfashion / international / DIY art / competition / workshopsPlace: Salme Cultural CentreDate: 23–27 March 2011Creator and organiser: NPO Teater Ma x ModaOrganisers: Tallinn Song Festival Grounds & Nordecon Distance from the sea: 2 kmwww.maxmoda.ee

� e fi fth international children’s and youth fashion theatre, entitled ‘Sea Symphony’, is the only event in Europe meant exclusively for fashion theatres and novice artists (between the ages of 12 and 26). � e festival presents fashion theatre as a new, contemporary, forward-looking genre of art with all of its beauty and possibilities. Competitions, workshops and seminars will take place. � e festival is the brainchild of the Max Moda youth fashion theatre. � e festival’s president is Maksim Hlebnikov and the producer is Tatyana Hlebnikova. � e participants include fashion theatres from Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Finland, Ireland, Sweden, Germany, the Czech Republic, Russia, Belarus, Ukraine, Georgia and Kazakhstan.


Tallinn Music Weeknew Estonian music / music industry / showcase /creative industry / networking / music exportPlace: Concert venues around TallinnDate: 24–26 March 2011Distance from the sea: varieswww.tallinnmusicweek.eewww.musiccase.ee

Tallinn Music Week started in 2009 with a plan to introduce the entire world to Estonian music, from jazz and folk to punk and metal. A kind of crash course in Estonian music was born, which on one spring weekend in 2011 will fi ll all of Tallinn’s clubs, theatres and cellar bars with the freshest and most exciting Estonian music there is.Tallinn Music Week will be attended by close to a hundred infl uential forces in the world of music from around Europe. Invitees include festival directors, organisers, managers, agents, record companies, publishers and journalists from prestigious international media publications. Tallinn Music Week is a large-scale party for Estonians and foreign fans and an opportunity for talented Estonian musicians to get noticed outside the country’s borders.

International young pianists, violinists and cellists competition ‘Young musician’families / international visitors / students / companies / folk culture / tradition / values / education / ethnography / history / folk dance / folk costume / folk games / traditional food / folk belief / theatre / workshops / folk handicraftPlace: House of Blackheads, Teachers’ House, Kadriorg Palace & Estonia Concert HallDate: 31 March–4 April 2011Creator and organiser : NPO Noor MuusikDistance from the sea: 500 - 1000 metreswww.hot.ee/youngmusician

Nowadays, the road to great art begins in early youth. Aspiring violinists, cellists and pianists aged 7–13 will experience a baptism of fi re in the world of classical music at the Young Musician international competition, with youngsters from 20 countries taking part. At 6.00 pm on 2 April, violinists and cellists will perform at the House of Blackheads, while pianists will take to the stage at Kadriorg. On 4 April at 6.00 pm, the fi nal concert of the award winners will take place at the Estonia Concert Hall. � anks to Young Musician, the world is richer by a noteworthy amount of Estonian music and art. � e event provides a strong incentive for Estonia’s music students and their teachers and helps popularise high culture among the younger generation.

Urban Symphonies @ Kumu DokumentaalPlace: Kumu auditoriumDate: Wednesdays at 18:00 from March–May and in OctoberCreators and organisers : Kumu auditorium in association with the Black Nights Film FestivalDistance from the sea : 1 kmwww.poff .ee/kumuwww.ekm.ee/kumu

� e fi fth season of Kumu Dokumentaal will be dedicated to life in urban environments, since more than 50% of the world’s population already resides in urban areas, and this fi gure is expected to rise to 80% by 2050. � is process is occurring at an unstoppable pace, which is why it is a good idea to take a look at the state of the world today, so as to better grasp what the world of the future may be like. � e city provides storytellers with a broad range of thematic opportunities – it can be viewed as a social phenomenon, an architectural wonder, the information society, a topographical object, a tourist magnet, a crime scene, poetry and more. � e city has a thousand faces and a thousand ways of being seen – it is one of documentary makers’ most inspirational sources. Screenings will be preceded by talks and discussions.


18 Culture & events

The Solaris Centre D/E-3/4, Estonia pst 9, tel. (372) 615 51 00, [email protected], www.solaris.ee. Rising out of the ashes from a former soviet landmark, this all-in-one entertainment complex comes complete with a state of the art cinema, concert hall, shopping and dining facilities. Solaris even sports a decent amount of plant life, in fact the only thing it doesn't have is a hotel and if it did there would be really no reason to leave. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JULEKW

Cultural centre

Major art museumsKadriorg Palace - Art Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. (+372) 606 64 00/(+372) 606 64 03, [email protected], www.ekm.ee. You could easily say that Peter the Great's spectacular Northern Baroque palace is a work of art in and of itself, but the palace is also home to Estonia's museum of foreign art. Paintings by 16th- 18th-century Dutch, German, Italian and masters, as well as 18th - 19th-century Russian works make up most of what's on display. Intriguing examples of sculpture, porcelain and glass can also be found here. Through April 23, 2011: Unveiling masterpieces. Kadriorg Art Museum 10. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4.20€. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) 4.80€.

Kumu G-5, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. (+372) 602 60 00/(+372) 602 61 23, [email protected], www.ekm.ee. Winning the title 'European Museum of the Year 2008' , Estonia's largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonia's past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Through April 17: Mapping. Hits from the Ljubljana Biennal of Graphic Arts 15th Tallinn Print Trien-nial. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission to permanent exhibition 4.20€, contemporary art 2.60€, all exhibitions 5.50€.

Tallinn Art Hall & Gallery (Tallinna Kunstihoone) D-2, Vabaduse väljak 6, tel. (+372) 644 28 18, [email protected], www.kunstihoone.ee. Drop into this im-posing 1930s-era building on Vabaduse square to find some of the most daring and avant-garde temporary exhibitions from Estonia and abroad. The Art Hall's separate, smaller gallery (where admission is free) next door at Vabaduse väljak 8 hosts separate exhibitions. Through March 13: Ap-plied art exhibition Ragulka. Through April 03: Leonhard Lapin. March 19 - April 30: Andres Tali. April 08 - May 01: Enn Tegova. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2.24€.

Smaller museums/galleriesAdamson-Eric Museum C-1/2, Lühike jalg 3, tel. (+372) 644 58 38, [email protected], www.ekm.ee. The permanent collection of works by the world-renowned artist Adamson-Eric (1902 - 1968) is housed in a 16th-century building in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum of Estonia. Through March 20: Ernst Jõesaar. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 1.90€. J

Applied Art Museum (Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuu-seum) B-2, Lai 17, tel. (+372) 627 46 00/(+372) 627 46 11, [email protected], www.etdm.ee. Works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions are set off by irregular white walls. Through March 20: Mittens and gloves. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.50€. J

City Gallery (Linnagalerii) D-2, Harju 13, tel. (+372) 644 28 18, [email protected], www.kunstihoone.ee. A rapidly changing rotation of contemporary, and often boldly experimental, art exhibitions.Through June 05: Project Money, Money, Money. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.

Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia (Kaasaegse Kunsti Muuseum) Põhja pst 35, [email protected], ekkm-came.blogspot.com. Not all modern art is contemporary and contemporary art is not all modern - or something like that. Fed up with the fact that the Estonian caretakers of culture ie. The Ministry of Culture refuses to see these differences and also refuses to see that these separate forms of art should have their own separate venues, a group of rebellious artists took over an abandoned building and decided to evangelise contemporary art to those that might listen - or watch, as is often the case with art. Have a look for yourself to see if any of this actually makes sense. QOpen 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. E

Design & Architecture Gallery D-3, Pärnu mnt 6, tel. (+372) 511 14 45, [email protected]. Changing exhibition of Estonian product design. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Draakoni Gallery C-2, Pikk 18, tel. (+372) 646 41 10, [email protected], www.eaa.ee/draakon/dindex.htm. The famous Dragon gallery holds small, often strange exhibitions in its quaint, Old Town shop. Through February 12: Kaarel Eelmaa. February 14 - 26: Berit Teeäär. February 28 - March 12: Martin Kaares. March 14 - 26: Eva Sep-ping. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. J

Fankadelik Gallery C-3, Vana-Viru 6, [email protected], www.fankadelik.com. This tiny, funky shop-gallery-hair salon is dedicated to all things artsy. Displays from various local artists can be found here. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J

Gallery M C-2, Kinga 3, 3rd floor, tel. (+372) 644 00 92, [email protected], www.gallerym.ee. 'M' is for 'modern', and that's what you'll see at this small, progressive, commercial gallery. The focus here is on the inventive works of American artist Mitchell Shernoff, though Estonian artists are also featured. Q Open 'most days'. J

Haus Gallery B-3, Uus 17, tel. (+372) 641 94 71/(+372) 641 10 76, [email protected], www.haus.ee. A commercial gallery, Haus is also open to the public and has an active ex-hibition schedule. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Buzz to enter. J

Culture & events 19

Just a few steps from the Old Town of Tallinn you will find Solaris – the newest and most unique center of entertainment, shopping and culture.

Solaris has:• A variety of leisure and lifestyle shops for all tastes, including Apple,

Kolonna, Weplay, Extreme Sport, Harnn etc.• Food Court, including a café Komeet with the best view of Tallinn.• The most innovative food-store in the city.• The latest 3D multiplex cinema Solaris Kino with its 7 screens. • 2 screens for classic movies at Cinema Artis.• Nokia Concert Hall – the best equipped concert hall in Estonia.

Life here is beautiful!Estonia pst 9, 10143 Tallinn | www.solaris.ee


20 Culture & events

Hobusepea Gallery B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 627 67 77, [email protected], www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm. The Estonian Artists' Union operates this cosy, two-storey gallery. Through February 14: Andrus Joonas & Siram. February 16 - 28: Alver Linnamägi & Tõnu Tunnel. March 02 - 14: Britta Benno, Karin Link, Lauri Koppel, Martin Tõnts. March 16 - 28: Agur Kruusing. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free.

Kastellaanimaja Gallery H-4, Roheline aas 3, tel. (+372) 601 31 81, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum.ee/vilde. Exhibitions by local artists in the Eduard Vilde museum. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 1.92€. Free every last Friday of the month.

Kullo Children's Gallery (Kullo Lastegalerii) C-2, Kuninga 6, tel. (+372) 644 68 73, [email protected], www.kullo.ee. Located in a fascinating medieval dwelling house, Kullo hosts workshops for children and highlights works by the coming generation of Estonian artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 0.50€. J

Mart Sander's Art Gallery E-3, Sakala 18, tel. (+372) 53 03 20 93/(+372) 508 47 57, [email protected], www.maaligalerii.ee/english.html. QOpen 14:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

Mikkel Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 28, tel. (+372) 601 58 44, [email protected], www.ekm.ee. Housed in the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum is one of Estonia's most impressive private art collections. Johannes Mikkel donated his vast collection of European, Russian and Chinese paint-ings, prints, porcelain and icons to the Estonian Art Museum in 1994. Through April 2011: Simson and Delila - Story of Italian painting. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2.20€. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) 4.80€.

Museum of Estonian Architecture B-4, Ahtri 2, tel. (+372) 625 70 07, [email protected], www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. Tallinn's architecture museum is located in the port area and housed in the restored Roter-mann Salt Storage building, itself an architectural curiousity. The permanent exhibit on the main floor features architectural models from the museum's collection. Temporary exhibitions are held on the other floors. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission to full house 2.88€, first floor/gallery 0.96€, second floor 1.92€.

National Library of Estonia (Eesti Rahvusraama-tukogu) E-1, Tőnismägi 2, tel. (+372) 630 76 11, [email protected], www.nlib.ee. Local and international art exhibitions are held in this impressive building. The permanent exhibition of graphic artist Eduard Wiiralt's works is not to be missed. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Admission free, but you may have to buy a 0.32€ one-time reader's card.

Niguliste Museum - Concert hall C/D-2, Niguliste 3, tel. (+372) 631 43 30/(+372) 644 99 03, [email protected], www.ekm.ee. This 13th century Gothic church, now an affiliate of the Estonian Art Museum, houses a fascinating collection of medieval art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries and a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers. Not to be missed is the famous fragment of Bernt Notke's 15th-century masterpiece, Dance Macabre. Organ concerts Sat, Sun 16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.20€. J

Tallinn Town Hall (Tallinna Raekoda) C-2, Raekoja plats 1, tel. (+372) 645 79 00, [email protected], veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda. Exhibitions are occasionally held in the basement of Tallinn's medieval town hall. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From September to June visiting by appointment. Admission 3€.

US Art Gallery B-4, Roseni 8 (Rotermann Quarter), tel. (+372) 664 50 26, [email protected], www.usart.ee. Located in the historic and stylish Rotermann Quarter, The US has quite an excellent collection of works by Estonian artists such as Okas and Wiiralt and they also put on special exhibits by International artists. Many of the works are for sale, but if you're interested in something without a price tag just ask they will probably accommodate you. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 1.60€. JU

Estonia Concert Hall D-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. (+372) 614 77 60, [email protected], www.concert.ee. The premier venue for classical music and the home of national concert organiser Eesti Kontsert. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Sun open 1 hr before scheduled concerts.

Estonian National Opera D-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. (+372) 683 12 14/(+372) 683 12 15, [email protected], www.opera.ee. Tallinn's pride and joy hosts opera, ballet and frequent performances by internationally-re-nowned guests. Tickets cost up to 31.32€. Q Box office open 11:00 - 19:00.

Niguliste Museum-Concert Hall C-2, Niguliste 3, tel. (+372) 631 43 30, [email protected], www.ekm.ee. Organ music concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. For more on this 13th-century Gothic church, see What to see. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.20€.

Nokia Concert Hall D/E-3/4, Estonia pst.9, tel. (+372) 615 51 11, [email protected], www.tallinnconcerthall.com. Tallinn now has a world-class concert hall, complete with a stunning sound sys-tem and high-tech gadgetry. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Saku Suurhall Paldiski mnt 104b, tel. (+372) 626 11 11/(+372) 660 02 00, [email protected], www.sakusuurhall.ee. Famous as the venue for the 47th Eurovision Song Contest in 2002, this 7000-seat sports and concert arena hosts large concerts and major sporting events.

Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) F/G-5/6, Narva mnt 95, tel. (+372) 611 21 02, [email protected], www.lauluvaljak.ee. The birthplace of Estonia's Sing-ing Revolution in 1988, the Lauluväljak is made of both a gigantic outdoor arena and a modern, indoor concert hall.

Concert halls

Culture & events

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22 sauna Culture

Beer raises something of a sauna controversy. Aficionados will insist that alcohol and sauna don’t mix, while others will claim that beer is an essential part of the sauna experience. The mainstream view, however, is that consuming beer is fine, but that it should be done only after the sauna session. Sauna is a somewhat extreme experience, and lowering your heart rate further with alcohol can leave you feeling sluggish or worse.

To beer or not to beer?

The many faces of saunaFinnish Sauna What Estonians simply call an ordinary ‘sauna’ is also referred to here as ‘Finnish sauna’ for clarity’s sake. The most typical type of sauna, this one involves a wood-fired stove (or sometimes an electric heater, though purists scoff at this innovation) with a collection of fist-sized stones on top. When the stones are hot enough, the water poured over them instantly vaporises. Sauna interiors are almost always made of wood, which gives them a pleasant, distinct fragrance.

Smoke Sauna This older type of sauna is gaining a newfound popularity lately, and many people swear by it. It’s only found in the countryside, built into small huts usually made of logs. Here the stove is much larger and the benches higher than in an ordinary sauna. The idea of the smoke sauna is that, instead of having a chimney pipe, the stove lets all its smoke into the room. This smoke-out is actually an exercise in nostalgia, harkening back to the time before Estonians had chimney technology. To avoid an unfortunate carbon monoxide incident, a small window in the opposite wall is opened to let the air clear before people actually use the sauna.

Steam Sauna Much less common than the Finnish and smoke saunas, steam sauna is what most English speakers would refer to as a ‘Turkish bath.’ As the name implies, large amounts of steam are pumped into the room, which is usually lined with tile, rather than wood.

Infrared Sauna The very latest in sauna technology is a recent arrival in Estonia. In fact, there are only a handful of them at the country’s health resorts. Usually build into a smaller sauna booth, the infrared sauna uses heat lamps, rather than a stove, to warm up your flesh and get your sweat glands going. Tallinn In Your Pocket tried this one out and found it relaxing enough, but with the strange light you may feel like a rotisserie chicken in a restaurant window.

Some people insist they’re part of an important health ritual, a way to keep clean, or an unbeatable hangover cure. For most Estonians, however, saunas represent a way to relax, spend time with family and friends, and to warm up after a day out in the bone-chilling extremes of the Nordic winter.

Though Estonia’s northern neighbour, Finland, is the undisputed sauna capital of the world (the very word ‘sauna’ in English is actually borrowed straight from the Finnish), the practice of confining steam or heat to a confined area for bathing purposes is found in a number of world cultures. Japanese, Native Americans and Russians all have their versions of steam and sweat baths.

The Estonian saun is thought to come from a rural sauna tradition that extends from the Baltic region to the Urals, so it’s no surprise that the development of sauna culture and practices here has a lot in common with that of Estonia’s neighbours. The aforementioned Finns will find few differences between their sauna designs and the ones in Estonia. Since the tradition dates back before written records were kept, there’s no way of telling how long it has been going on in the country. The fact that there’s even a ‘Sauna’ street and a medieval ‘Sauna Tower’ in Tallinn’s Old Town is, however, a good indicator of the importance of saunas in centuries past.

These days, while saunas are often still used for bathing by country folk, it’s much more common to find them used for de-stressing, for warming up, and for parties. Because advances in technology mean that saunas are no longer confined to separate buildings or little huts in the woods, a lot of hotels and sports clubs have one or more saunas built in. Some inventive people even manage to squeeze two-person saunas into their tiny, Soviet-era apartments.If you’re a first-time visitor to Tallinn, or just someone who’s curious about this important part of Estonian life, you’ll definitely want to make at least one sauna stop while you’re here.

What follows are some tips to make your sauna experience more rewarding, and to point out some fascinating sauna possibilities that go way beyond what’s on offer in the average hotel. The most important thing to remember, however, is that the sauna is a social experience, so get together with some Estonian friends, pack up some bottles of beer, and head to where the steam is!

Typically, the Estonian countryside sauna consists of a separate building.


23sauna Culture

A ‘how-to’ guideFirst, get naked. Bathing suits in saunas are a rarity. Most public saunas will be single-sex or have times for men and women, though families and groups of friends often go in mixed groups. That said, if you’re in a large bathhouse or health club, check the signs before running out naked into the common pool area and having your photo taken by the tabloid press or Tallinn In Your Pocket.

Once you’re ready, step into the sauna. It’s good to bring a towel with you to sit on. Choose your bench carefully. Heat rises, and the top bench, especially when the ceiling is low, can be real scorcher. Though experts say 60 - 70 °C is the optimal temperature for sweating, Estonians typically heat their saunas to 80 - 100°C, sometimes as high as 110°C. If you’re a novice, start with the lower bench.

After you’ve gotten used to the heat, it's time for leil. You take the dipper and scoop some of the water from the bucket and pour it over the stones. The effect of even a little water on the stones is instantaneous, so take it slow. Under no circumstances should you pour the whole bucket onto the stones. Even if you survive the resulting heat, your companions will probably kill you.

When you’re nice and sweaty, and comfortable with the temperature, you can take the viht or birch branches (sometimes provided, sometimes sold separately) and gently swat your back, torso and limbs. Better still, go the traditional route and let your sauna companion give you a hand. This is a kind of massage, and will supposedly increase your circulation and make you perspire more, getting rid of all those nasty toxins.

The typical session, the time you sit in the sauna itself, lasts about ten minutes. By this time, you should be fairly well renched in your own perspiration, and ready to cool off. Of course, you should go at your own pace, and leave early if you feel dizzy or start to see mystical visions of Estonian folk dancers.

As in Finland, Estonians like run out into the snow or jump in a cold lake after a sauna session, but lakes and private snow banks simply aren’t as available here, so many people skip this step. A shower is usually available to help you clean up. A post sauna drink and snack are a must.

Sauna on Wheels tel. (+372) 50 87 600/(+372) 51 02 909, [email protected], www.matkad.ee. Why go to the sauna when the sauna can come to you? This eight-person sauna built into a trailer will meet you within 50km of Tallinn at no extra cost, and charges 0.26€/km beyond that. The basic rate to rent it for an evening is 230€.

Saunapunkt Nõuma farm, Vanamõisa village, Saue parish, tel. (+372) 509 66 19/(+372) 56 91 81 54, [email protected], www.saunapunkt.ee. Just a few short kilometres from Tallinn, here you’ll be able to experience a traditional country sauna. The Finnish sauna costs 25€/hr for the first five hours and the Russian sauna costs 40€/hr for the first five hours.

Fire Truck Sauna Pikk 30, Järva-Jaani, Järva county, tel. (+372) 386 32 86/(+372) 514 94 85, [email protected], www.jjts.ee. Some wacky voluteer firefighters built a sauna into a 1963-era Ford 600 fire truck! It belongs to a fire truck museum in Järva county, about 100km from Tallinn, but will travel wherever you need it for 0.96€/km + 31.95€/h.

Adventurous sauna options

Selected saunasAfrican Kitchen B-3, Uus 34, tel. (+372) 644 25 55, [email protected], www.africankitchen.ee. For something far funkier than average, reserve the private sauna in Tallinn's groovy, African-themed restaurant. It comes with colourful, exotic décor and its own sound system. You can hire it for 22.37€/hr; ask for details at the bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. J

Club 26 H-3, Liivalaia 33, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, tel. (+372) 631 55 85/(+372) 631 53 00, [email protected], www.club26.ee. On the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia. 20€/hr until 15:00, 40€/hr after. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

Kalev SPA Hotel B-3/4, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 00, [email protected], www.kalevspa.ee. Three VIP saunas 35 - 49€/hr. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.

Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel G-2, Toom-puiestee 27, tel. (+372) 667 71 00, [email protected], www.meritonhotels.com. This is a respectable, ten-person sauna with a Jacuzzi and they offer a ‘sauna menu' with a fruit plate, cheese plate, meat plate and fish plate, ranging 8.70 - 11.80€ per person. A 2-hour session costs 38.35€, extra hour 16€; after 17:00 it raises to 57.50€ and 19.17€ for the extra hour. QOpen 24hrs.

Park Inn Central Tallinn G-3, Narva mnt 7c, tel. (+372) 633 98 00, [email protected], www.tallinn.rezidorparkinn.com. Jacuzzi and catering available. 12.78€/hr until 15:00, 25.56€/hr after. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.

Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel G-3, Sadama 11a, tel. (+372) 630 10 00, [email protected], hotels.tallink.com. This stylish and comfortable Finnish-style sauna can be reserved for up to 12 guests and upon request you can also access the pools and public saunas of the Aqua Spa. QOpen 24hrs. An hour session on Mon- Fri from 08:00 - 16:00 costs 25.56€, after 16:00 and on weekends it raises to 38.35€.

Kalma A-1, Vana-Kalamaja 9a, tel. (+372) 627 18 11, www.kalmasaun.ee. Buil t in 1928, Kalma is Tallinn's oldest public sauna. I t was designed with pride and fea-tures a fantastic Ar t Deco façade and is filled with the ambience that only a historic public bath could have. In fact, their men's sauna is actually the only public sauna in town that uses the traditional method of wood heating. Two private saunas are also available for hourly rent, both have very cosy relaxation rooms and one has a small dipping pool. Kalma is truly an experience and is merely a five-minute walk away from the Old Town walls. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Men 8 - 9€/person, women 6.50 - 8€/person. N

Historic sauna


24 Where to stay Where to stay

Tallinn's hospitality industry has pretty much reached ca-pacity and the total number of rooms sits at about 7800. For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has never been better, and the room rates are also likely to drop. Depending on when you book, don't be surprised if you're able to get a room for below the prices we have listed in the guide. A fluctuating price system seems to be the trend at higher-end hotels. Prices listed below include VAT and breakfast, unless otherwise indicated.

N Payment in cash only H Conference facilities

U Facilities for disabled R LAN connection

L Guarded parking F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant

J Old Town location D Sauna

C Swimming pool I Fireplace

Z Anti-allergy 6 Pets allowedO Casino W WiFi connection

hhh Star rating

Symbol key

Cream of the crop Barons C/D-2/3, Suur-Karja 7/Väike-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 699 97 00, fax (+372) 699 97 18, [email protected], www.baronshotel.ee. Housed in a gor-geous Old Town bank building dating back to 1912, this business class beauty has managed to retain much of i ts architectural grandeur both inside and out. From the classy singles to the luxury suite, all rooms come complete with satelli te television and internet access for those who like to stay in touch. Among the added bonuses are a bar, restaurant and up-to-the-minute conference facili ties. Q33 rooms (singles €65, doubles €79, triples €106, suites €192). Extra bed 25.55€, pets 20€. ZJH6UILKDW hhhh

Merchant's House C-2, Dunkri 4/6, tel. (+372) 697 75 00, fax (+372) 697 75 01, [email protected], www.merchantshousehotel.com. This beauti ful structure is essentially a 14th-century merchant's house turned into a luxury, boutique-style hotel, so don't be surprised if you get lost in the twists and turns of its corridors. Each of its rooms and suites has been done up with cool, chic décor, tastefully fi tted to the historic building. Look for creature comforts like plasma TVs, high-speed internet and fluffy bathrobes. You'll also find a 'relax room', brasserie restaurant, café and an Ice Bar, where chilly drinks are served in ice-formed shot glasses. Q37 rooms (singles €64, doubles €83, triples €108, quads €134, suites €153, family room €109). Extra bed 25.55€. PJRIGKDW hhhh

My City Hotel D-2, Vana-Posti 11/13, tel. (+372) 622 09 00, fax (+372) 622 09 01, [email protected], www.mycityhotel.ee. In a refurbished 18th-century building next to Sőprus cinema, My City Hotel offers mar-blesque stylishness right in the heart of Old Town. Not only will you be right in the middle of Tallinn's entertainment district, you'll also find lots of extras right in the hotel, from the piano bar to room service with complimentary news-papers and breakfast served in-room. Business travellers will appreciate the conference room and the fact that every room has its own computer with internet connection. Pricier 'executive' rooms are more spacious and have better views. Kids under 12 stay free. Q68 rooms (singles €79 - 119, doubles €84 - 124, triples 2112kr). Extra bed €25. JHULGKDW hhhh

Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia H-3, Liivalaia 33, tel. (+372) 669 06 90, fax (+372) 669 06 91, [email protected], www.radissonblu.

com/olumpiahotel-tallinn. Originally buil t for the 1980 Olympics, this full y-modernized, 26-storey, downtown tower now belongs to the Radisson Blu chain. The long list of facilities here includes a gargantuan conference centre, a fitness centre with a spectacular view. The rooms won't disappoint either, but for an unforgettable experience, book the top-floor sauna that faces Old Town. Q390 rooms (singles €89 - 125, doubles €89 - 135, triples €175 - 220, suites €165 - 1150, family room €175 - 220). Extra bed 30€. PHRUFLGKDCW hhhh

Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn D-4, Rävala pst 3, tel. (+372) 682 30 00, fax (+372) 682 30 01, [email protected], www.tallinn.radissonblu.com. From the immaculate furnishings to li t tle touches like shoe buffers in the corridor, Radis-son never misses a beat, proving there's something to be said for painfully strict international standards of quality. Other perks here include sweeping views of the city and a free morning sauna. The hotel has a definite business bent with i ts 14 conference rooms and office services, but families will appreciate the fact that kids under 7 stay free. Q280 rooms (singles €119 - 129, doubles €119 - 129, suites €215 - 1022). Extra bed 25€. PHRUIFLGKDW

Savoy Boutique D-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel. (+372) 680 66 88, fax (+372) 680 66 89, [email protected], www.savoyhotel.ee. Every bi t as posh as the name implies, this Old Town establishment is a worthy addition to the growing boutique hotel mar-ket. Along with very tasteful rooms with old-fashioned touches (antique photos included), Savoy offers lots of li t tle comfor ts like bathrobes, slippers and free local calls. And if you don't have your own laptop, they'll lend you one. Beautiful lobby café. Q44 rooms (singles €90 - 141, doubles €90 - 167, suites €251 - 271). Extra bed 35€, pets 16€. JH6UIGKW hhhhh

Schlössle C-3, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 00, fax (+372) 699 77 77, [email protected], www.schlossle-hotels.com. The elegance, his-tory and warmth of its three attached Old Town buildings are a major part of Schlössle's five-star appeal. Over the past decade this luxury hotel has played host to musi-cians and heads of state, but even if you aren't rock or royalty, the helpful and friendly staff will treat you as such. A beautiful medieval lobby, a crackling fireplace and a world class restaurant invite you to linger and stay just one more night. Q23 rooms (singles €154 - 176, doubles €174 - 198, suites €284 - 710). Extra bed 30€, pets 32€. PJHRUILGKDW hhhhh

Where to stay


25Where to stay

Each of the spa hotels below offers accommodation as well as treatment packages and day spa services. Prices here are for accommodation only, check their websites for details on their package deals.

Kalev Spa Hotel B-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 00, fax (+372) 649 33 01, [email protected], www.kalevspa.ee. Opened in 2006, this enormous, state-of-the-art facility brings Estonia's spa phenomenon to the heart of the city. In addition to tidy guest rooms, complete spa packages are available, as are a health and wellness centre, a fitness centre and a restaurant with a view of the water park. The park includes three waterslides and a 50m swimming pool, Tallinn's largest and along with the gym is available free of charge for hotel guests. Q100 rooms (singles €55 - 86, doubles €61 - 96, suites €88 - 189, Family rooms €75 - 163). Extra bed 25.55€, pets 12.80€. JHR6UFLGKDCW hhh

Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel G-2, Paldsiki mnt 4, tel. (+372) 667 71 11, [email protected], www.meritonhotels.com. With some fantastic views onto Toompea, a full-service spa, several eateries and sprawling conference facilities, this hotel cer-tainly provides an 'all-inclusive' experience for its guests. The steel and glass structure houses some of the most state-of-the-art spa facilities in the city, including a salt chamber, low temperature sauna, heated beds and even something called a 'mushroom' for the kids. The confer-ence facilities can hold up to 380 attendees and are also decked out in the latest gadgetry to give presentations a lasting impression. Q465 rooms (singles €150, doubles €170, suites €280, Family room €175, Presidential suite €460). PTHUFLGKDCW

Spa hotels

St. Petersbourg C-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628 65 00, fax (+372) 628 65 65, [email protected], www.hotelstpetersbourg.com. Aristocrats in the 19th century would stay at the St. Petersbourg when visiting Tallinn, likewise 21st-century travellers looking for luxury Old Town accommodation can find it here at the city's oldest, continuously-running hotel. Completely renovated to keep pace with newer rivals, the hotel treats its guests with modern comforts like deluxe art-deco fur-nishing and plush bathrobes, all the while retaining a strong sense of old world charm. Q27 rooms (singles €80 - 107, doubles €95 - 130, suites €205 - 292). Extra bed 20€, pets 32€. H6UIFLGKDW hhhh

Swissôtel H-3, Tornimäe 3, tel. (+372) 624 00 00, fax (+372) 624 00 01, [email protected], www.tallinn.swissotel.com. This lavish hotel has bragging rights as Tallinn's tallest building and needless to say some of room-views are fabulous. Inside you'll find all the things you'd come to expect from the luxury chain, including conference facilities, a high-end spa, state-of-the-art technology and a highly trained staff catering to your every whim. Swissotel is all about the little extras such as special bathrobes and bedspreads for the kids, iPod docking stations in the executive rooms and Lavazza espresso machines in every room. Even if you don't have the pleasure of staying here, be sure to investigate some relaxing opportunities at the Amrita Spa or enjoy a de-lightful buffet in Café Swiss. Q238 rooms (doubles €125, suites €305). Extra bed restricted to grand rooms only 40€. PHRUFLGKDCW



UpmarketBaltic Hotel Imperial B/C-2, Nunne 14, tel. (+372) 627 48 00, fax (+372) 627 48 01, [email protected], www.imperial.ee. Part of the medieval Old Town wall runs right through this small, luxury hotel, and designers have wisely integrated it into the 21st-cen-tury interior to preserve the historical feel of the building. The Imperial's management have aimed for a four-star level of quality, and with its bright rooms, beautiful sauna hall and elegant cheese restaurant (Estonia's only), they got there. The size of the double rooms varies. Be sure to ask for one overlooking the neighbourhood's picturesque cobbled streets. Q32 rooms (singles €134, doubles €160, suites €205 - 390, family room €243). Extra bed 32€. PJHRUILGKDW hhhh

Baltic Hotel Vana Wiru C-3, Viru 11, tel. (+372) 669 15 00, fax (+372) 669 15 01, [email protected], www.vanawiru.ee. I t's hard to imagine that a five-storey hotel wi th such a grandiose marble lobby - complete with an elevated walking bridge and Italian restaurant - could be tucked into this bustling part of Old Town, but a quick peek at Vana Wiru will remove all doubt. In addition to offering guests an unbeatable location and pristine rooms, the hotel caters to business travellers with in-room WIFI connections. Find the main entrance around the corner off Müürivahe. Q82 rooms (singles €128, doubles €153 - 179, suites €237 - 288). Extra bed 32€. JHRUILGKDW hhhh

Bern C-3/4, Aia 10, tel. (+372) 680 66 30, [email protected], www.bern.ee. Hotel Bern, which is tucked into a courtyard that's conveniently across from a grocery store, aims to bring its guests the best in Swiss-style hospitality with its friendly and professional staff. Due to size restrictions the 50-room establishment hasn't got many perks, but it does have a 24- hour bar, and breakfast is served in their petite, in-house restaurant. Q50 rooms (singles €48 - 84, doubles €48 - 94, De Luxe €156). Extra bed 35€, pets 16€. PJ6UGKDW hhhh

Clarion Hotel Euroopa G-3, Paadi 5, tel. (+372) 669 97 77, fax (+372) 669 97 95, [email protected], www.euroopa.ee. Located in the port, they offer all the modern conveniences you'd expect from a four-star hotel with a few extras such as your very own guard-lamb on every bed. The 185 room hotel caters primarily to the business set, offering 6 conference rooms, wireless internet throughout the premises and includes a sauna and fi tness centre which are both complimentary for guests. The 41 business rooms also come equipped with balconies that have views overlooking the bustling por t area. Q185 rooms (singles €60, doubles €65, triples €85, sui tes €192). Extra bed 21€, pets 20€. PZH6UFLGKDW hhhh

L'Ermitage H-2, Toompuiestee 19, tel. (+372) 699 64 00, fax (+372) 699 64 01, [email protected], www.lermitagehotel.ee. A quiet, restful place to hermit yourself away - just as the French name implies - the centrally-located L'Ermitage pampers i ts guests with in-room creature comforts like minibars, flat pannel TVs and internet connections. Some rooms even have views of Toompea Castle, in case you lose yourself in introspection and forget what country you're in. For a truly gigantic bathroom, be sure to request a 'superior' double. Q90 rooms (singles €65, doubles €70, suites €130, superior €90). Extra bed 24€. ZJHRUIL�GKDW

Telegraaf C-3, Vene 9, tel. (+372) 600 06 00, fax (+372) 600 06 01, [email protected], www.telegraafhotel.com. This full-service hotel in a restored 19th-century former bank turned communications building has facilities that include a wellness spa, a Russian-style restaurant and an unheard-of Old Town luxury: underground parking! The ultra comfortable rooms are more spacious than typical for an Old Town hotel, you might however be tempted to spend a little bit too much time in the bathrooms decorated with ‘French' post cards'. Q86 rooms (singles €135 - 282, doubles €155 - 302, suites €375 - 899). Extra bed 40€. PJHRUILGKDCW hhhhh

Three Sisters Hotel A/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630 63 00, fax (+372) 630 63 01, [email protected], www.threesistershotel.com. This luxury hotel built into three famous medieval houses on the end of Pikk tänav provides the quintessential Tallinn experience. The top-notch establishment offers large rooms decorated in a striking blend of modern and antique styles. Flat-screen TVs can be found alongside old-fashioned bathtubs and hidden staircases. One suite even sports a grand piano. The library with fireplace, world-class restaurant and cosy wine cellar are just icing on the cake. Q23 rooms (singles €188 - 268, doubles €214 - 294, suites €508 - 946). Extra bed 51€, pets 19€. PJHR6UILGKW hhhhh

Viru Inn C-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 611 76 00, fax (+372) 641 83 57, [email protected], www.viruinn.ee. Set in a 15th-century house on Old Town's main shopping street, this intimate, boutique hotel offers the quintessential Tallinn accommodation experience - wooden beams, curvy stair-cases and all. Each of its rooms and suites is a bit different, but all come complete with antique-style furnishings and other old-fashioned touches. Its modern bonuses include an enormous Jacuzzi, two saunas (free in mornings), an Italian café, a wine cellar and free airport pick-ups. Children under 12 stay at no extra charge. Q15 rooms (singles €108, doubles €127, suites €191 - 280, Deluxe €165). Extra bed 35€. PJHRUGKDCW

Where to stay


27Where to stay

Make reservations online!www.inyourpocket.com

Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel B-2, Pikk 29/ Lai 24, tel. (+372) 667 71 11, fax (+372) 667 70 01, [email protected], www.meritonhotels.com. Tallinn's newest hotel has everything you could possibly want in an Old Town establishment - including two entrances on en-tirely different streets. The hotel blends perfectly together the charms of the old world with the conveniences we find handy in our modern times. In typical Old Town fashion, no two rooms are exactly the same, which just adds to the charm. You'll also find the mouth-watering cakes of the Mademoiselle café on the premises, as well as the Tapas Bar and a pretty nifty public toilet, complete with an ancient well. Q50 rooms (economy €90, standard €110, Bella Garden €130). PJHKW

Meriton Old Town Hotel A-3, Lai 49, tel. (+372) 614 13 00, fax (+372) 614 13 11, [email protected], www.meritonhotels.com. A nice combination of mod-ern comfort and historic surroundings are what's offered in this tourist-class hotel at the edge of Old Town. The main building with its zigzagging corridors dates from the 19th century and houses somewhat small, but cheerfully decorated guest rooms. More interesting is the lobby, which contains part of the old city wall and the round, outer edge of the neighbouring 15th-century horse mill. Try the café here for excellent cakes. Q41 rooms (singles €90 - 120, doubles €108 - 120). Extra bed 22€. JRUILGKW

Metropol B-4, Roseni 13, tel. (+372) 667 45 00/(+372) 667 46 68, fax (+372) 667 46 60, [email protected], www.metropol.ee. This eight-storey hotel in the hap-pening tourist area near the port has long been popular with Scandinavian weekenders. Rooms are respectably furnished in dark wood, and those from the fifth floor up have some decent views. Other pluses include the smart restaurant, karaoke bar, and many exciting packages, including the 'Ro-mance Package' - you'll have to bring someone along to have the romance with though, as we're pretty sure that's not part of the deal. Q149 rooms (doubles €39 - 92, suites €75 - 160). Extra bed 21€, pets 21€. ZH6ULGKDW

Nordic Hotel Forum C-4, Viru väljak 3, tel. (+372) 622 29 00/(+372) 622 29 99, fax (+372) 622 29 01, [email protected], www.nordichotels.eu. You certainly won't be able to miss this stylish, brass-flanked glass structure which has 137m of cedar trees lining the roof. The hotel's interior is thoughtfully designed, using natural materials, which ooze warmth and comfort throughout. The premises are outfitted with the latest in communication and entertainment technology, including Skype-enabled rooms. It also boasts a beautiful spa and excellent, Mediterranean restaurant. The Forum's friendly staff have been carefully selected to make sure travellers who pass through its doors are well looked after - and they certainly are. Q267 rooms (singles €95 - 150, doubles €95 - 150, suites €155 - 210, business class room €125 - 180, double delux €135 - 190). Extra bed 30€, pets 20€. PJH6UIFLGKDCW hhhh



Given the increasingly high standards of service in Tallinn’s hospitality industry, it’s very likely that your hotel receptionist speaks better English than you do. Still, your attempts to pronounce these Estonain phrases will no doubt amuse him or her to no end. Hotel hotellRoom numbritubaBreakfast hommikusöökDouble Bed kahene voodiDo you have a single room/double room?Kas Teil on üheseid/kaheseid tubasid?Can I pay by credit card?Kas ma saan krediitkaardiga maksta?What time do you serve breakfast?Mis kell on hommikusöök?Do you speak English?Kas Te räägite inglise keelt?

Sleep smarts

Park Inn Central Tallinn G-3, Narva mnt 7c, tel. (+372) 669 06 90, fax (+372) 669 06 91, [email protected], www.parkinn.com/hotel-centraltallinn. This spiffy downtown hotel has a wide range of rooms and the same helpful services you'd expect from a hotel in its class. The spacious rooms come tastefully decorated with a modern flair. Children are well catered for in family rooms and the lobby café, which has an adjacent children's play area. The hotel also has a beauty salon. Q245 rooms (singles €39 - 96, doubles €39 - 96, triples €64 - 112, family room €64 - 96, executive room €64 - 115). Extra bed 20€, pets 10€. PH6UIGKDW hhh

Reval Park Hotel & Casino H-4, Kreutzwaldi 23, tel. (+372) 630 53 05, fax (+372) 630 53 15, [email protected], www.parkhotel.ee. The lobby of this hotel houses the flashy Olympic Casino, so the ground floor is a lot like a miniature Las Vegas. The hotel itself, about a 15-minute walk from Old Town, has spacious double rooms with great views of the nearby park. Other plusses are the restaurant, which offers up a fantastic all-day buffet. Q121 rooms (singles €54 - 105, doubles €54 - 120, suites €150 - 258). Extra bed 30€, pets 10€. POHR6ULGKW hhhh

Scandic Palace E-2, Vabaduse väljak 3, tel. (+372) 640 72 00, fax (+372) 640 72 99, [email protected], www.scandichotels.com. For that classic, brass-trimmed, bell-hopping hotel experience, it's hard to outdo the Scandic Palace. This old Tallinn standby manages to outclass many newer arrivals with little touches like wood-paneled elevators, trouser presses, and a nice, 1930s-style café next to the lobby. Ask for a room facing Old Town, overlooking the square. Q86 rooms (singles €41 - 73, doubles €48 - 83, triples €73 - 108, suites €123 - 301, family room €48 - 98). Extra bed 25€, pets 12.80€. PHR6UFGKDW hhhh

Sokos Hotel Viru C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 93 00, fax (+372) 680 92 36, [email protected], www.viru.ee. Occupying an enviable spot on what's generally considered the very centre of Tallinn, the large, Finnish-man-aged Sokos Hotel Viru offers an unbeatable combination of amenities and location. Aside from several classes of spiffy rooms, a conference centre, two respectable restaurants and a popular nightclub, the hotel also has direct access to the huge Viru shopping centre, which can satisfy even the deepest of retail cravings. Rooms are furnished in a colour-ful, friendly style. Q516 rooms (singles €58, doubles €68, suites €198, family rooms €78). Extra bed 20€, pets 10€. PJHR6ULGKDW

St. Barbara E-2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. (+372) 640 00 40, fax (+372) 640 00 41, [email protected], www.stbarbara.ee. More affordable than many other centrally located hotels in its class, the St. Barbara delivers the same high quality, but without certain extras like a lobby bar and sauna. The rooms here have been recently 'refreshed' and are quite comfortable, many featuring high ceilings and enormous windows. Be sure to ask about the interesting legend surround-ing the saint from which the hotel got its name. Q53 rooms (singles €47 - 55, doubles €55 - 75, family room €80 - 90). Extra bed 20€, pets 13€. JH6LGKW hhh

Taanilinna Hotell C-3, Uus 6, tel. (+372) 640 67 00, fax (+372) 646 43 06, [email protected], www.taanilinna.ee. Management have lent one of Tallinn's medieval names to this fittingly old-fashioned looking hotel in the heart of Old Town. The décor here sports deliberately quaint retro-touches, while all the fixtures are modern and even on the elegant side. Great location for the price. Q20 rooms (singles €47 - 72, doubles €47 - 86, suites €85 - 106). Extra bed 22€. Pets 16€. JH6LGW

Tallink City Hotel G-3, Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) 630 08 00, fax (+372) 630 08 10, [email protected], hotels.tallink.com. The Tallink ferry line made absolutely no compromises on quality when they installed their sparkling, mirrored hotel in downtown Tallinn. The full-service facility provides all the right touches, from conference rooms and chic restaurant to candies on the pillows. Finnish guests in particular will appreci-ate the nightclub and free morning sauna. Rooms are done up in a bright, sharp, contemporary style, with the higher priced 'de Luxe' doubles providing a lot more space. Q332 rooms (singles €69 - 157, doubles €94 - 211, suites €124 - 301, family room €94 - 211). Extra bed 25€. PHRUFLG�KDW hhhh

The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn G/H-2, Toom-puiestee 23, tel. (+372) 660 07 00, fax (+372) 661 61 76, [email protected], www.uniquestay.com. A trend setter with its too-cool style and creature comforts, The von Stacklberg Hotel Tallinn offers well-outfitted and comfortable rooms just steps away from Toompea. Standard rooms come with desktop computer terminals, while the larger 'Zen' rooms offer extra perks such as slippers, bathrobes and aromatherapy amenities to spoil your inner child. Q52 rooms (singles €190, doubles €200, Zen singles €210, Zen doubles €220). Extra bed 20€, pets 20€. PHR6UILKDW hhhh

Ülemiste I-5, Lennujaama tee 2, tel. (+372) 603 26 00, fax (+372) 603 26 01, [email protected], www.ylemistehotel.ee. This brilliantly modern hotel next to Tallinn's quiet airport has so many services you might not want to leave. Aside from the fitness centre, two saunas, European-style res-taurant and conference rooms, there's a comfortable night bar and a BBQ terrace. Rooms on upper floors have a magnificent view of the lake. Despite the airport-side location, it's a fairly convenient place to stay, since buses leave from the front of the hotel and bring you into town in about 10 minutes. Q128 rooms (singles €96 - 112, doubles €112 - 131, suites €166 - 339). Extra bed 25€. PZHRUIFLGKDW hhhh

Where to stay


29Where to stay

Mid-rangeBraavo B-3, Aia 20, tel. (+372) 699 97 77, fax (+372) 641 23 17, [email protected], www.braavo.ee. And now for something completely different! Located just at the edge of Old Town, this bright and colourful lodging is designed with families and youth in mind. The rooms are spacious, cheerful and come at an affordable price. Don't expect too many extras but if you're looking for a place to rest your head in a central location this hotel will certainly do. If you fancy a swim or a workout, the attached Reval Sport complex will facili tate you. Q27 rooms (singles €64, doubles €70, family room €83). Extra bed 17.90€. JRUFLGDCW

City Hotel Portus G-3, Uus-Sadama 23, tel. (+372) 680 66 00, fax (+372) 680 66 01, [email protected], www.portus.ee. A fairly new hotel just opposite the Passenger Port's D-Terminal, Portus is a boon for economical travellers, offering decent rooms and services at a no-nonsense price. The friendly, slightly goofy interior makes it inviting, as do its Café Retro and free internet ter-minal in the lobby. Q107 rooms (singles €32 - 54, doubles €32 - 59, family room €104). Extra bed 22€, pets 16€. H6ULGKDW hhh

Go Hotel Shnelli B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 01 02, fax (+372) 631 01 01, [email protected], www.gohotels.ee. This starkly modern, seven-storey hotel is attached to Tallinn's newly revamped railway station, which happens to have a great location just outside the Old Town walls. All rooms are done in a simple, no-nonsense style with a slight railroad theme. The 'superior class' rooms on the upper floors have beautiful views of Toompea hill. Train buffs should book a room in the slightly

cheaper 'standard class' rooms overlooking the tracks. Try the restaurant and day spa. Q124 rooms (singles €37, doubles €38, family rooms €98). Extra bed 21€, pets 13€. PJH6ULGKW

Tallink Express A-4, Sadama 9, tel. (+372) 667 87 00, fax (+372) 667 88 00, [email protected], www.hotels.tallink.com. The smart-looking structure 300m from the passenger port is home to a sparklingly modern and orderly hotel that caters to visitors who want easy access to both the Old Town and to Helsinki-bound ships. Guests are treated to free wireless internet, and should consider trying out the hotel's famed soup buffet. Q163 rooms (doubles €39 - 79). Extra bed 25€, pets 13€. HR6ULGKW hh

Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn H-2, Endla 23, tel. (+372) 666 48 00/(+372) 666 48 02, fax (+372) 666 48 88, [email protected], www.uniquestay.com. Within a brief walking distance from Old Town, the five-storey Unique Hotel Mihkli is a bright and modern hotel. All 'Standard Plus' rooms offer flat-screen, internet-connected computers and coffee/tea-making facilities. In addition to that, the 13 spa-cious 'Zen' rooms have Jacuzzis and mini-bars. Check out the smart lobby café with its lunch specials. Q85 rooms (singles €90 - 100, doubles €100 - 110, suites €116 - 126, Zen singles €110, Zen doubles €120). Extra bed 22.40€, pets 10€. PHR6UFLGKDW hhh



BudgetAlthough there are loads of hostels around town, the free-spirited often communal living feel of them is not for everyone - especially if you are looking for something a little more private. Here are some alternatives.

Bed & Breakfast Rex H-4, Tartu mnt 62, tel. (+372) 50 78 650, [email protected], www.hot.ee/allarp3. I f a bed and a shower are all you need, this absolutely-no-frills place near the bus station will do. Doubles have TVs, while all other rooms are set up as bunk-style triples, quads, etc. Each room has its own shower/WC and furniture, while plain, is new. Group rates are also available. Take tram N2 or 4 to the Autobussijaam stop. You can get there by bus no 17, 17A or 23, 23A to Bus Station and walk towards the tram lines on Tartu mnt. Q14 rooms (singles €13, doubles €22, triples €38). Breakfast 31.30€. ULG

City Hotel G-4, Narva mnt 24 (corner of Kreutz-waldi), tel. (+372) 640 04 05/(+372) 55 51 12 70, fax (+372) 640 04 04, [email protected], www.city-hotel.ee. Although technically a guest house by Estonian rules, City Hotel reminds more of an upscale-budget hotel, offering a wide range of services including sauna, pool and beauty parlour. The neat and modern rooms are decorated with a quirky Russian aesthetic and are com-fortable to say the least, most rooms come equipped with a WC and shower in-room, however you can opt for even cheaper accommodation that share these amenities. Q (singles €32, doubles €51, triples €77, quads €103, suites €77). Extra bed 10€. PTHLGKDW

City Hotel Tallinn G/H-2, Paldiski mnt 3, tel. (+372) 660 07 00, fax (+372) 661 61 76, [email protected], www.uniquestay.com. In what seems to be a new trend in the city, the Unique hotel has converted some of their rooms to a no-frills concept. You can expect the same quality and modern rooms as before, just without the costly extras, such as room-cleaning and towel chang-es. These of course can be purchased for an additional charge along with other services. We think it's a great option for those on a budget, who don't want a 'budget' room. Check-in is right next door at the von Stackelberg. Q17 rooms (singles €45, doubles €50). Extra bed 10€, pets 10€. 6ULGW hh

Dzingel Männiku tee 89, tel. (+372) 610 52 01/(+372) 610 53 00, fax (+372) 610 52 45, [email protected], www.dzingel.ee. This biggish hotel in the beautiful Nőmme district is a good budget option for any-one who doesn't mind a bit of a commute to the centre. Renovations have brought the rooms up-to-date, and the hotel comes fully outfi tted with restaurant, sauna, and respectable conference facili ties - eight meeting rooms in all. Take bus N°5 to the P. Kerese stop. Q285 rooms (singles €26, doubles €32, triples €45, suites €58). Extra bed 12.80€, pets 9.60€. H6ULGKDW

Hotel Economy B-1, Kopli 2c, tel. (+372) 667 83 00, fax (+372) 667 83 01, [email protected], www.economyhotel.ee. Restoration has brought the stylish, mint-coloured, 1920s look back to the hallways and common areas of this historic hotel that overlooks the busy train station market area. Rooms, by contrast, are 21st century all the way. The colourful, brightly-li t restaurant can be reserved for groups. Q38 rooms (singles €24, doubles €29, triples €46). Extra bed 19.80€. 6LGKW

HostelsThe Estonian Youth Hostel Association's website is www.hostels.ee.

16 Euro Hostel C-4, Roseni 9, tel. (+372) 501 30 46, [email protected], www.16eur.ee. If it's price and location you're after, then this recycled, former hotel turned hostel will probably suit you just fine. The furnishings are kind of mix and match, but it's overall quite clean, just don't expect to get a good nights sleep here on the weekend as it also sits smack dab in the middle of several bars, a nightclub and a gentlemen's club. We suggest wearing earplugs and that problem just might go away. Q (singles €16, doubles €25, triples €38, quads €50, Dorm bed €10). Extra bed 9.60€. Breakfast 5.75€. J6DW

Euphoria E-2, Roosikrantsi 4, tel. (+372) 58 37 36 02, [email protected], euphoria.traveller.ee. This hostel-esque happening, brought to you by the good folks over at the ‘Hostel With No Name', is one of the larger places in town. It's kind of a unique concept that centres around four apart-ments on different floors and a large common room where everyone can hang out, play the guitar, bang on bongos or if the spirit moves you, maybe even paint your own mural on the wall. Each floor has its own kitchen and toilet, one of them even has a bath! Light breakfast included. Q Prices 11.20 - 12.80€/person. RLW

Flying Kiwi Backpackers C-2, Nunne 1, tel. (+372) 58 21 32 92, [email protected], www.flyingkiwital-linn.com. Our research suggests that Kiwis lack the neces-sary wing structure to be able to fly. However, this hostel is so conveniently located you won't need to fly anywhere. The interior is surprisingly modern and has all of the amenities you'd expect from a hostel and more - fancy an evening sauna anyone? It offers up dorm-style rooms as well as more private ones and get this, a 10% discount on bike rentals from the folks over at City Bike Rentals & Tours. Q6 rooms (doubles €27 - 33, triples €35 - 50, dorm room €8 - 14, twin €23 - 30). No breakfast. JRGDW

GIDIC Hostel Tallinn H-3, Tartu mnt 31, tel. (+372) 646 60 16/(+372) 53 65 03 55, fax (+372) 653 52 18, [email protected], www.gidic.ee. A little bit of a hike from old Town, but not completely off the beaten track, this Australian owned and run hostel is pretty basic and hostel-like. That being said it's quite clean, offers a women's only dorm, private couples dorm, internet connected laptops, WIFI, excellent quality spring mattresses and free morning coffee or tea in the kitchen. Q (doubles €32 - 35, dorm €10 - 18). GW

OldHouse Hostel B-3, Uus 26, tel. (+372) 641 12 81/503 70 60, [email protected], www.oldhouse.ee. Bright, fluffy rooms make this nicely renovated, Old Town establishment almost too nice to be called a hostel. Com-mon areas like the hallways, TV room and guest kitchen are just as spiffy. For those without a laptop, there's access to an internet connected computer free of charge. Q Recep-tion open 24hrs.12 rooms (doubles €29, triples €39, quads €49, place in dorm €9, twin room €29). Breakfast 2.90€. JRLNGW

Where to stay


31Where to stay

Apartment rentalShort-term apartment rental is a good option for anyone staying more than a few days - you can often get a beauti-ful, Old Town apartment for the same price you'd pay for a cramped double room in a tourist class hotel. Apartments come fully outfitted with dishes, towels, etc. Prices are usually per apartment (not per person) and drop substantially the longer you stay. The prices we've listed here are for a single night and do not normally include breakfast unless stated otherwise. Check the individual apartments' websites for full details on their rates.

Briston Apartments D-2, Harju 7, tel. (+372) 699 96 70/(+372) 699 09 00, [email protected], www.briston-apartments.com. All Briston's apart-ments are conveniently nestled in the same great, Old Town building, which has its own reception desk and parking lot. The one- and two-room apartments still sparkle from their 2005 construction, though they're all decorated in a classy, old-fashioned style that gives them warmth. More expensive two-rooms have better views. Q 11 apartments 58 - 113€. Extra bed 22.35€. JRL

Rasastra Apartments C-4, Mere pst. 4, tel./fax (+372) 661 62 91, [email protected], www.bed-breakfast.ee. The same people who arrange bed and breakfast-style homestays also offer several centrally located apartments which can be rented anywhere from a few days to six months. All apartments are fully equipped with kitchens and TVs. Q 7 apartments 51 - 160€. LNG

RED Group Apartments C-3, Jõe 5, tel. (+372) 666 16 50, fax (+372) 666 16 51, [email protected], www.redgroup.ee. The Red Group's apartments are all fully renovated and mostly in Old Town, making this option a good choice for location, quality and price. Interiors have a warm look, and the staff are always ready to help guests out with information and arrange other services like airport pick-ups and drop-offs. Breakfast isn't included in the price, but an Old Town café is never far. Available for medium and long-term rentals also. Q 20 apartments from 73 - 143€. No breakfast. PRILGDW

Romeo Family Apartments D-2/3, Suur-Karja 18, 4th floor, apt 38, code 38, tel. (+372) 644 42 55, fax (+372) 660 95 88, [email protected], [email protected], www.romeofamily.ee. This family run establishment offers the same level of quality and personalised service as many of the luxury hotels in town. Apart from very convenient (mostly Old Town) locations, each of these 1-4 room apart-ments has fully-outfitted kitchens, bathrooms, etc. Some have internet connections. Most apartments are located in the same building. If you'd rather just have a room, these are available as well. Q12 rooms (singles €32 - 38, doubles €35 - 42, triples €48 - 58, suites €75 - 95, apartments €45 - 55, family room €48 - 58). Extra bed 16€. Breakfast at apartments 6€. JLGW

Sakala Residence E-3, Sakala 16, tel. (+372) 663 16 40/(+372) 524 80 99, fax (+372) 663 16 41, [email protected], www.sakalaresidence.ee. A grand, white edifice just outside Old Town is home to the state-of-the art apartments that make up Sakala Residence. Each of the spacious 2- 3- or 4-room apartments - some with saunas and balconies - comes with a kitchen and all the accoutrements. Ask for a 5th-floor room with a sea view. Management provide complimentary city transfer when you arrive. Q 11 apart-ments: standard class 59 - 141€, business class 189 - 236€. Extra bed 32€. Pets 32€. No breakfast. R6LGW

Old Town Backpackers C-3, Uus 14, tel. (+372) 53 83 50 95, [email protected]. Owners insist it's 'not for tourists, only for travellers', so put on your best hippy-back-packer attitude if you plan to stay here. The centrally-located hostel on Aia is basically ten bunks and some sofas crammed into two rooms, with a huge guest kitchen, sauna, laundry, internet-connected computer. Q 10 beds 14.40€/person, 12.80€ with HI card. Linen 1.60€. JD

Tallinn Backpackers B-3, Olevimägi 11-1, tel. (+372) 644 02 98, [email protected], www.tal-linnbackpackers.com. Hands down this hostel is Tallinn's best for that feeling of international traveller camaraderie. Basically a collection of open bunk rooms, it's cheap, central and friendly, and the foreign backpacker who staff it organise video screenings and the occasional spontaneous pub visits and some funky tours both in and out of Tallinn. Free sauna, kitchen, computer and WiFi. Laundry for a fee. Looking to stay in town a little longer? They've got rooms for that too. Q5 rooms (5 Total rooms ). 34 dorm beds 9.60€/bed. Extra bed 6.40€. No breakfast. JRIGW

The Monk's Bunk C-3, Viru 22, tel. (+372) 656 11 20/(+372) 644 02 98, [email protected], www.themonksbunk.com. The Monk's Bunk consists of several dorm-style rooms with bunk-beds to crash on. Certainly a bit more community oriented than some places, the 'Bunk' does however pride itself in being a place where you can get some peace and quiet - at least as much privacy as you can get in a room filled with snoring strangers. Q Dorm rooms 9.40 - 11.75€. JRW

Vana Tom C/D-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 620 92 66, [email protected], www.vanatom.ee. Having so many noisy bars nearby could either be a plus or a minus, depend-ing on what your looking for. Smack dab in the middle of Old Town, Vana Tom is a friendly place with a nice and brightly decorated interior. Various private and dorm rooms avail-able, and there's even a kitchen for guests' use. Just keep the location in mind if you value a peaceful rest. Q (doubles €35, triples €41, quads €48, place in dorm €8, 6-bed private room €60). Extra bed 10€. Pets 10€. Breakfast for groups upon prior notice. JR6GW

Viru Backpackers C-3, Viru 5-2, tel. (+372) 644 60 50, [email protected], www.tallinnbackpackers.com. Tallinn Backpackers' smaller Old Town facility has the same fun, backpacker-run feel as its main hostel, but it's built in a former office space where rooms offer more privacy. Computer, WiFi, kitchen and laundry are available, and guests are welcome to visit the Olevimägi location to groove with the folks there. Q7 rooms (singles €16, doubles €32, triples €38). Extra bed 12.80€. No breakfast. JRGW


32 restaurants restaurants

J Old Town location U Facilities for disabled

T Child friendly 6 Pets allowed

E Live music S Take away

X Smoking area W WiFi connection

I Fireplace L Parking available

N Payment in cash only P Air conditioning

Due to the current economic climate you may find that the occasional restaurant we have listed here has either closed its doors or reduced its hours of operation, but we've tried our best to have an accurate list by print time. Also be aware that in most cases you'll have to seat your-self, so don't wait around like a dummy - just grab an avail-able seat and you'll eventually be brought a menu. In pubs, you'll likely need to order and pay at the bar. Service in the centre is nearly always English-speaking and foreign-lan-guage menus are the rule, although the words may not always be spelled correctly. VAT (20%) is always included and service should never be added to the bill.

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African African Kitchen B-3, Uus 32/34, tel. (+372) 644 25 55, [email protected], www.africankitchen.ee. This highly funky African-themed establishment is the place to go for affordable, exotic meals and a trendy, lounge-like atmosphere. Traditional and contemporary cuisine from the continent is served in hip, colourful surroundings. Lounge tables in the main room are a bit low, so reserve a spot in the cosier ‘Cave Room' for more comfortable dining. Service slows considerably when crowded. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (9.60€). JLDXSW

American Baby Back Ribs & BBQ H-1, Endla 45 (Kristiine Centre), tel. (+372) 600 55 92, [email protected]@babyback.ee, www.babyback.ee. You will se-riously question what country you're in once you step into this authentically American-style ribs joint. Upholstered booths, bottles of Heinz 57 on the tables and a piped in radio station from Louisiana make it perhaps more American than any place in America. The long menu includes pizzas, milkshakes and burgers, but the steaks and ribs are the stars here. Order the full rack 'monster' and contemplate why Texans are so huge. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Also at: Kallaste Keskus 12, Tabasalu, tel 600 55 62, [email protected]. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (10.85€). T6ULSW

Mack Bar-B-Que H-4, Tartu mnt. 63, tel. (+372) 601 09 69, [email protected], www.americanfood.ee. In terms of American-style atmosphere and service, it's hard to get any more authentic than Mack. Designers of this combination sports bar/family-style restaurant went all the way, with red, vinyl booths, bottles of Heinz catsup, piped-in 80s hits and ‘no smoking' signs in Spanish. There's even free ice-water! Unfortunately the food quality doesn't really live up to expectations. The long menu includes nachos, pizza, burgers and milkshakes, but barbecued meats are the speciality. If you get stuck, just order a Dr. Pepper. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (10.85€). TVXS

Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina B-3, Pikk 43, tel. (+372) 631 17 55, [email protected], www.texas.ee. Beer ads, steer horns, cactus and rowdy conversation - this bar screams 'Texas' so loud you might think you've walked into one of those old roadhouse movies. Thankfully the ambience is more rock and blues than twangy two-step. The long menu is mostly U.S. -style Tex-Mex (Cadillac nachos, quesadillas, etc) with other things like hot wings, Texas potato salad and a decent selection of vegetarian items thrown in. Not all dishes are as authentic as the Alamo, but enough are to make this a decent destination for homesick Yanks. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (8€). J6IESW

Argentinian Argentiina H-2, Pärnu mnt 37, tel. (+372) 660 51 77, [email protected], www.argentiina.ee. Believe it or not, they actually played 'Don't cry for me Argentina' when we were here, but that's not why we recommend the place. The truth is it's actually a well-established, popular and slightly swank cellar restaurant where South American cooks grill slabs of steak and fish right in the centre of the dining room. The formalish look of the place is offset by some very quirky Mexican-style wall décor, as well as a lovably kitschy floor show on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (15€). ES

Asian Asian Aroma H-2, Süda 1, tel. (+372) 627 89 77/(+372) 53 31 15 63, [email protected], www.asianaro-ma.ee. This fast-food café was originally billed as pan-Asian, but just about everything on the menu seems to be Chinese, or at least Chinese-like. The spring rolls were great, and the sweet and sour fish was, well... let's say edible, though uninspired. On the plus side, the service is actually fast and friendly. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (5.75€). VS

Asian Wok & Grill H-2, Paldiski mnt 4 (Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 628 81 51, [email protected], www.meritonhotels.com. Other than the fact that it's pretty tasty food for a decent price, there's one more bonus - you can eat as much as you want for that same price! There are a couple of ways to get your food here. The first way is to load your plate full of hot and ready Asian cuisine, take it back to your table and dig in. The second option is to fill your plate full of meats and vegetables, choose a sauce and have the smiling chef 'wok' it up for you. Starters, sushi, soups, salad and a dessert are also included - in case you were worried. Drinks cost extra and there's also an à la carte menu for those with little imagination. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00. (9.59€). JUW

Chedi B-3, Sulevimägi 1, tel. (+372) 646 16 76, [email protected], www.chedi.ee. Call it a swank, upscale restaurant with an Asian menu, or an Asian restaurant done up to the nines. In either case, what you'll get at Chedi is a sleek, novel dining experience that fuses East Asian and Western trends. This is where Thai Pike Perch meets lamb chop in chocolate sauce, and the quality is always top-notch. The only hiccup here is the service, which can at times be sluggish. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (17€). JS

restaurants


33restaurants

Everest Kathmandu H-3, Liivalaia 19, tel. (+372) 644 20 68, www.kathmandu.ee. Set up like a casual, lunch café, this nominally Nepalese establishment is a contrast in styles, meaning the piped-in monks' chanting clashes a bit with the sexy Fashion TV models strutting on the corner set. The menu is divided into Indian and Chinese sections, and the food was passable. Be warned that if you opt to try the chef's own sauce, you'll want to suck on a fire extinguisher. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (6€). 6LVSW

Masala D-4, Maakri 19/21, tel. (+372) 610 84 40, [email protected], www.masala.ee. Masala, which in Hindi means a mixture of spices used in cooking, is the kind of place that's filled with warmth. We're pretty certain that at least one of the many Asian dishes on offer here will find a suitable home in your belly. The garlic Naan was perfect and the crispy lamb was quite succulent. Only one caveat, if you like it spicy ask for it, as the heat is tuned down a bit to reflect local preferences. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (175kr). VESW

Restoran Arcadia B-2, Pikk 33, tel. (+372) 646 61 54, [email protected], www.restoran-arcadia.ee. When one thinks of the name Arcadia, so many exotic and dreamy thoughts come to mind. It's also the case with this restaurant, furnished in exotic woods, oriental carpets, pillows and the like. In terms of cuisine to expect here, there are loads of spice-laden Asian dishes available, however, you're just as likely to find numerous fusion dishes on the menu. Two separate menus available, a less expensive daytime menu and a pricier but more elaborate evening menu. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (15€). PJSW

Balkan Admiral G-3, Lootsi 15, tel. (+372) 662 37 77, [email protected], www.aurulaev-admiral.ee. A meal at Admiral, a smart restaurant buil t into an old steam ship, has to be of the most unforgettable dining experiences in town. The service and atmosphere here harken back to times when a luxury sea voyage was the height of class. While waiting for your meal you are encouraged to check out the multi tude of old photos, model ships and seafaring memorabilia that grace the interior. The impressive view of Tallinn harbour through the por tholes is unquestionably 100% Estonian, but the menu here is actually Balkan, with Serbian beef and other lamb and fish dishes from that region. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12.80€). TLXS

Museum C-4, Vana-Viru 14, tel. (+372) 646 09 01, [email protected], www.museum.ee. Housed in a former fire-fighting museum, this sophisticated yet unpretentious establishment seems to be not quite as cool as it used to be. That being said, the last time we were in, we quite enjoyed our experience. The cuisine, with a heavy leaning towards Japanese and Mediterranean, was respectable and the prices, unlike many of those in the city centre, weren’t so high as to force us to sell one of our favourite internal organs. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (11.50€). J6UESW

nAnO B-3, Sulevimägi 5, tel. (+372) 55 52 25 22, [email protected], www.nanohouse.ee. The brainchild of an Estonian fashion icon and her DJ husband, nAnO is a quaint little bohemianesque place that's both warm and friendly. It's hard to pin down the exact style of food other than to say it's home-style, fresh and healthy. You won't find any heavy meat dishes here, nor will you find beer - there are enough places in Tallinn that serve those kind of things. This is more of a lunch place, so be sure to call ahead to make reservations if you'd like to eat dinner here. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TJ6NW

Novell G-3, Narva mnt 7c, tel. (+372) 633 98 91, [email protected], www.novell.ee. The Park Inn Central Tallinn's spiffy ground floor lounge restaurant makes its mark on Tallinn's culinary scene with an inventive menu. Items like duck leg confit with Gorgonzola potatoes, grilled beef with tomato and butter fish with potato cream can be enjoyed while sitting under a glass roof. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (14€). TULESW

Platz B-4, Roseni 7, tel. (+372) 66 45 086, [email protected], www.platz.ee. Everything old is new again - or at least in the Rotermanni Quarter it is. It's there you'll find this stylish yet elegant eatery nestled into an old, industrial limestone building. The cuisine, artfully prepared by a son of Naples, is an innovative and fresh fusion of world flavours. The service is equally crisp but not too starchy. We quite enjoyed the tempura and the decadent desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (10€). J6W

Ribe C-3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 30 84, [email protected], www.ribe.ee. We couldn't quite figure out what category this fine eatery should fall under, but that actually doesn't matter as the food and overall experience were excellent. The intriguing menu items are all artistically presented and the interior design is just pretty as punch. We found the portions a little on the slim side, nonetheless the ambience and friendly service made each of the small bites special. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12.80€). TJ6

Zebra Café G-3, Narva mnt 7, tel. (+372) 610 92 30, [email protected], www.zebracafe.ee. One of a new breed of high-quality, casual gourmet restaurants that have recently blossomed in Tallinn. Zebra offers à la carte dining with the option of a slightly cheaper cafeteria set-up, complete with freshly-baked pastries, desserts and a salad bar, all in one very slick, cool room. The service is excellent, and prices, while they might be a bit higher than elsewhere, are more than justified by the wonderful cooking. Dj's spin some hot tracks Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (14€). VSW

Trendy restaurants



Brazilian Ipanema Rodizio H-2, Endla 23, tel. (+372) 666 48 17/(+372) 666 48 00, [email protected], www.ipanemarodizio.ee. Perfect for groups or individuals looking for a unique experience, the Ipanema features a Brazilian-style buffet loaded with authentic and fresh dishes. Passadors (meat carvers) actually go from table to table and slice off as much meat as you can handle. We suggest you come on an empty stomach if you want the full experience. They also have a scaled down lunch rodizio for 130kr between 12:00 and 14:00 and an à la carte menu. Live music on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (27.50€). T6ULESW

CaucasianHearty cuisine from Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan became popular here during Soviet times and continues to leave its mark on the local culinary scene.

Must Lammas C-3, Sauna 2, tel. (+372) 644 20 31, [email protected], www.mustlammas.ee. Serving up a chic, gourmet take on Georgian cuisine - elsewhere a relatively casual affair - Black Sheep certainly stands out in the herd. Not that anyone's complaining. The restaurant's sharp interior is worthy of a design catalogue, and the excellent trout with raisins, plums and estragon we had was far more exciting than anything you'd find at the average shashlyk (kebab) stand. Rest assured though that shashlyk and other Georgian favourites are available here too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (9.60€). TJ6S

Pirosmani Üliőpilaste tee 1, Nőmme district, tel. (+372) 639 32 46, www.pirosmani.ee. This one is way off the map, but it's the only place we've found that makes Georgian food like they do in Georgia. The restaurant's cosy, country tavern interior gives it a kind of downmarket authenticity, and if you can't decipher the menu, just look at the pictures. In summer there is also an outside seating area with a small kids' playground. In the Nőmme suburb, take trolleybus N°3 about 30 minutes to the Ehitajate tee stop, then go left and pass the university. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (7.35€). L

Chinese China Inn C-3, Viru 9, tel. (+372) 648 45 85, www.chinainn.ee. Located smack dab in the middle of Viru street, this 100% Chinese cellar-restaurant has all the makings of a tourist trap, but isn't. The food is pretty decent, and certainly prepared from authentic recipes. Some of the dishes are a little on the expensive side, but you can still fill your belly and afford to have drinks with friends later. Check out the afford-able buffet too. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (18.80€). JS

Golden Dragon B-2/3, Pikk 37, tel. (+372) 631 35 06, [email protected], www.goldendragon.ee. A long-time favourite among Tallinn's experienced diners, this little cellar restaurant's food quality has suffered mixed reviews as of late. However, we quite liked it the last time we were here so we'll let you be the judge. The portions of spring rolls continue to be big enough to feed you and 1.3 billion of your closest friends. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (8.95€). TJIVS

Kathmandu Hill H-2, Pärnu mnt 36, tel. (+372) 631 42 12, [email protected], www.kathmanduhill.ee. Mainly catering to the local lunch crowd, this is a simple, brick-lined, café-like affair serving mainly Chinese and a bit of Indian cuisine to those coming in off the busy street outside. Because the food is fairly decent, it's developed its share of regulars. If you want spice, be sure to tell the cook. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (9€). VSW

Peking C-3, Müürivahe 52, tel. (+372) 51 91 66 16/(+372) 644 05 71, [email protected], www.peking.ee. One of the oldest restaurants of its kind in town, Peking, is in fact getting old. It does however offer a very interesting and creative menu featuring an Aphrodisiac selec-tion that includes ‘Fried bull eggs with sauce', among other supposed sexual enhancing delicacies. The atmosphere is a little tacky, albeit not surprising for a restaurant of the genre, but unfortunately we found the food to be mediocre. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (7.65€). J6IS

Express Café Soup Gallery A-4, Sadama 9, tel. (+372) 667 87 00, [email protected], www.hotels.tallink.com. On a cold day it's hard to go past an all you can eat soup buffet. There are always at least six tasty soups to choose from, so take your time and enjoy. If the soup doesn't fill you up, pig out on the bread selection, which is included in the set price. QOpen 11:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (4.15€). USW

Park Avenue H-4, Kreutzwaldi 23, Reval Park Hotel, tel. (+372) 630 53 42/(+372) 630 54 25, [email protected], www.parkhotel.ee. The Reval Park Hotel presents a hearty buffet, which is a marathon affair at that. There's a hot food option (7.60€), a cold buffet (7€), and the ‘sweet' buffet (4.15€). You can have all three for 14.65€. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Breakfast buffet 07:00 - 10:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 11:00. Daily buffet 12:00 - 16:00. PT6ULW

Turg C-2, Mündi 3, tel. (+372) 641 24 56, [email protected], www.turg.ee. Turg's hearty buffet is a hidden gem, tending towards the Eastern European style, and the people in the kitchen really seem to know what they're doing. Servings cost 0.95€ per 100g, coffee and water are included. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Lunch buffet 11:30 - 15.00. JS

Buffet express

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35restaurants

Estonian Kaerajaan C-2, Raekoja plats 17, tel. (+372) 615 54 00, [email protected], www.kaerajaan.ee. Named after a popular national folk dance, this is an Esto-nian-themed restaurant with a modern twist. It consists of a café on the main floor and a slightly more formal restaurant in the top floor. You won't find any of the traditional, national dishes on the menu, however you will be pleased to discover many Estonian ingredients sporting an haute cuisine style. Check out the upstairs toilet for a truly architectural experi-ence. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (11.80€). JW

Kuldse Notsu Kőrts C-2, Dunkri 8, tel. (+372) 628 65 67, [email protected], www.notsu.ee. Heaven for pork-lovers, at the ‘Golden Piglet Inn' the cooks even put bacon in the bread! This country-style Estonian restaurant undeniably caters to the tourist crowd, but we really liked the bright, folk-art motif. The menu is much more interest-ing than the heavy food however, offering such dishes as the 'Estonian sausage feast for two'… get your minds out of the gutter ladies, or the ever popular 'crisp pork knuckle with sauerkraut.' Despite the carnivorous theme, a selection of vegetarian dishes is available for those herbivores out there. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12.80€). JUISW

Liisu Juures C-2, Raekoja Plats 13, tel. (+372) 644 19 83, [email protected], www.liisujuures.com. Set in a historic cellar on Town Hall Square, you'll find authentic Estonian food presented in a gourmet fashion at Liisu's Place. Choices such as 'pork knuckle for 2', served with sweet and sour red cabbage and braised potatoes are on offer as are 'frisky sausages' for the kids, all of which can be enjoyed on the outdoor summer terrace, weather and season permitting. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (10.25€). JIS

Mekk D-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel. (+372) 680 66 88, [email protected], www.mekk.ee. For modern Estonian cuisine done right, make sure to pay a visit to the Savoy Boutique hotel's culinary gem that is Mekk. Although the portions are somewhat dietary, the fare is fresh, prepared imaginatively and the meals come complete with home-made artisan bread. The service was pleasantly welcoming, as were the prices for the overall experience. We highly recommend the to-die-for desserts, which in our opinion belong under glass in an art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (12.80€). TJ6USW

Ö B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 661 61 50, [email protected], www.restoran-o.ee. Despite being named for one of Estonia's hardest-to-pronounce vowels, Ö is well worth seeking out. The atmosphere of stylish, charcoal-co-loured furniture, with dove-wing chandeliers overhead add an artistic touch. The equally fashionable menu, prepared by one of Estonia's most decorated chefs, is inventive and modern with emphasis on the use of local ingredients. Here you can find mouth-watering moose dishes, home-made reductions and fresh seasonal fish. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (22.35€). LSW

Vanaema Juures C-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. (+372) 626 90 80, [email protected], vonkrahl.ee/et/toit/vanaemajuures. True to its name, Grandma's Place treats its guests to a warm welcome and a cosy dining room filled with antiques. Take heart that there's no sign of the big, bad wolf here, though wild boar is occasionally on the menu. Elk roast is a regular feature and the lamb with bleu cheese comes highly recommended. Reservations are a good idea for Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (9.60€). TJS

Kapten Tenkeš E-2, Pärnu mnt 30, tel. (+372) 644 56 30, [email protected], www.kap-tentenkes.ee. An old-time Tallinn favourite, this friendly, little restaurant sports wooden tables, garlic wreaths and lots of strange, little doilies, all shining a nostalgic light on the land of Estonia's Finno-Ugric cousins. The focus here is on tasty Hungarian favorites, prepared with your pocket-book in mind. We quite liked the pork snitzel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (9€). TSW

Hungarian



French Bonaparte B-3, Pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44, [email protected], www.bonaparte.ee. You'll be hard pressed to find a more elegant locale for French cuisine. Set in an amazingly restored 17th-century merchant's house, Bonaparte is a high-class affair all the way, from the compli-mentary elk carpaccio to the wine and cheese cellar. The portions seem small though - maybe it was the huge plates. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (19.15€). JSW

C'est La Vie C-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48, [email protected], www.cestlavie.ee. One of the most impressive restaurants we've had the pleasure of reviewing comes in the form of this snazzy cellar venue. From the black and gold 1920's motif to the friendly service and the heated floors, C'est La Vie gets top marks. The internationally infused menu contains just the right amount of Frenchness and the artfully prepared food is more than magnifique. We think it's the perfect spot for a romantic dinner or just a classy start to any evening out. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (14.50€). J6ESW

German Baieri Kelder E-2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. (+372) 640 00 45, www.stbarbara.ee. All the classic beer-hall elements are presented in the Hotel St. Barbara's cellar restaurant. It's got the vaulted stone ceilings, the heavy wooden tables and the obligatory, outrageously happy, piped-in schlager music. The brief menu offers things like Bavarian hunter sausages and Vienna schnitzel. Our pike perch came decently peppery, but was served with less-than-cohesive potato dumplings. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (10.55€). TILW

Beer House C-2, Dunkri 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 22, [email protected], www.beerhouse.ee. In keeping with its beer-drinking theme, the menu at Tallinn's only microbrewery lists six different kinds of sausages (pizza also available). The real reason to stop in though is the beer-hall ambience and the unpasteurised, home-made brew, which comes in seven variet-ies. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (10.55€). PJ6EXSW

Schnitzel Haus D-2, Rüütli 28/30, tel. (+372) 645 00 59, [email protected], www.schnitzel-haus.ee. Accordion-heavy pop hits, wooden beer hall tables and vaulted ceilings, come together to form this den of schnitzel. The menu consists mainly of... well - schnitzel and they will certainly have you yodelling. Just in case you're not in the mood for a pounded-flat, breaded and fried meal, they've also got a few other meaty mains to choose from and a 'Radler' on the drink menu was also a plus. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8.30€). PTJ6ILESW

Greek Artemis Souvlaki B-3, Pikk 35, tel. (+372) 644 11 14, [email protected], www.artemis.ee. Having Greek owners, who actually cook the food, puts Artemis far, far above the other 'Greek' restaurants in town. This is a tiny, but well-appointed restaurant where each table is named after an island, and plastic grapes dangle from the ceiling. Authentic items like moussaka, pasticcio and several feta dishes make up the menu. The meat platter was fantastic; in fact our mouths are still watering. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (10.20€). JS

Syrtaki Taverna C-1, Piiskopi 1, tel. (+372) 644 60 76, [email protected], www.syrtaki.ee/tavern. One of the very few eating establishments located on Toompea, this little Greek Tavern serves up hearty, meat and onion-laden dishes even Zorba could appreciate. Expect to find a plethora of Greek favourites prepared according to traditional recipes. Be warned though that portions here are rather large and the meals meant for two could almost feed an army. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (9.60€). JIS

Balthasar C-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 627 64 00, [email protected], www.balthasar.ee. Beauti-fully-restored dining rooms overlooking Town Hall Square provide Balthasar the perfect aristocratic setting for its refined establishment. The specialty of the house is garlic, and everything that can be made with it. The number of bulbs next to each menu item indicates the dent it will put in your evening's social prospects. Just when you thought you had enough garlic, a quick look at the dessert menu re-veals …garlic ice cream! Reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (17€). TJEW

Garlic

Saigon H-3, Pronksi 3, tel. (+372) 640 39 44, www.saigon.ee. The menu here offers both Vietnamese and Chinese dishes, and we (along with our waitress) had trouble working out which were which. Still, it's a pleasant enough little place, clean, casual and café-like and our food, whichever nation claims it, was highly edible. Ingredients are fresh and rice dishes are excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (7€). TULVSW

Vietnamese

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37restaurants

St. Michael Juusturestoran (St. Michael Cheese Restaurant) B-2, Nunne 14, tel. (+372) 627 48 45/(+372) 627 48 04, [email protected], www.juusturestoran.ee. Monks and cheese - always an unbeatable combination. The Imperial Hotel building was once part of the St. Michael Nunnery, so naturally waiters in monks' garb preside over its smart, medieval style restaurant. Choose from cheesy mains such as tournados with Roquefort, but be warned though that they're on the heavy side. There's also a cheese-free menu for the lactose wary. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 24:00. (19€). TJULESW

Say cheese!

Indian Café VS E-2, Pärnu mnt. 28, tel. (+372) 627 26 27, [email protected], www.cafevs.ee. After all these years Cafe VS is still a popular, cutting-edge bar rather than a traditional Indian restaurant. Nevertheless this is where Tallinn's expats, Indians included, end up when they crave a good Indian meal. A good pick for fantastic Tandoori cuisine without the formality (and price) of other Indian venues. The main courses can be quite large, but they do offer a half-portion not listed on the menu. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10.55€). USW

Chakra B-3, Bremeni käik 1, tel. (+372) 641 26 15, [email protected], www.chakra.ee. If there's one thing you should know about Chakra, it's that the people who envisioned it have a long and successful history bringing inno-vation and quality to the local dining scene. The atmosphere comes complete with authentic, often naughty, knick-knacks from India. The food is prepared with care, using top-notch ingredients and recipes, some of which only the best chefs from the home country can pull off. In short, we think that it probably won't be the last time we'll dine here. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (19.50€). JSW

Elevant C-2/3, Vene 5, tel. (+372) 631 31 32, [email protected], www.elevant.ee. This is an exceptional Old Town alternative to medieval theme restaurants. Beautiful décor from the entry foyer's antique wrought iron staircase to the sparse earthy sheik furnishings make it a place to linger over your meal. The sophisticated East meets West style also extends to the menu, offering a wide selection of innovative, carefully prepared Indian and fusion dishes. Adventurous diners should pay particular attention to the meat selection. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (9.60€). TJIS

Maharaja C-2, Raekoja plats 13, tel. (+372) 644 43 67, [email protected], www.maharaja.ee. Of all the Indian res-taurants in Tallinn, this old favourite on Town Hall Square is the most formal and the most involved - someone even greets you at the door and fusses over you until you're seated. The food here is absolutely amazing, so if you don't mind the fact that an order of rice here costs the same as a full meal elsewhere, it's a fine choice. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (13.75€). JS

Spice C-2, Mündi 4 / Pikk 14, tel. (+372) 644 18 18, [email protected], www.spicerestoran.ee. Looking for friendly service in Tallinn? It actually does exist at Spice, where they serve up a smile alongside fresh, flavourful and spicy Indian cuisine. If you can't handle the heat, you'll also find a decent selection of coco-nutty Thai dishes, a handful of European and some interesting vegetarian offerings. We hear that all the chefs here hail from India, so you're in for a real treat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (7€). JSW


38 restaurants

InternationalBossanova C-2, Kinga 1, tel. (+372) 644 65 05, [email protected], www.bossanova.ee. Apparently everybody in Tallinn is doing sushi now. Sitting right on Town Hall Square, this is a dark and swank establishment with several menus offering everything from pizza to... you guessed it - sushi. An army of staff buzzes about the place helping diners narrow their choices between calzones and nigiris. We just hope the sushi chefs won't be unhealthily inspired by the oversized aquarium and their pet shark named Eve. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (16€). PTJXSW

Café Palace E-2, Palace Hotel, Vabaduse väljak 3, tel. (+372) 640 73 00, [email protected], www.scandichotels.com. The airiness and frenetic lunchtime activity makes the Palace Hotel's restaurant feel like a busy train-station café at times, but if you happen to be in the area it's worth stopping by for a bite. The small selection of heavily Italian influenced mains (pastas, Caesar salad) is filled out by other items such as burgers and grilled dishes. Stay near the back if you want it quiet. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (7.70€). TW

Clazz C-2, Vana Turg 2, tel. (+372) 627 90 22, [email protected], www.clazz.ee. Occupying a prime, Old Town loca-tion, Clazz falls somewhere between trendy restaurant and a plush lounge bar with live music on most nights. Actually, the sprawling establishment has plenty of room to be both. The menu offers a medley of international favourites with an emphasis on jazzy dishes you'd expect to find only in the ‘Dirty South'. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. (11€). J6UEW

Dominic C-3, Vene 10, tel. (+372) 641 04 00, [email protected], www.restoran.ee. The historic Dominic has two different faces - an elegant 'black & white' café in the front and a luxurious French-style restaurant in the back. The café is a great place to nibble on a slice of cake while enjoying a rich espresso or to even indulge in one of the light bites on offer. For a more formal experience, table cloth napkins and all, the restaurant might just fit the bill - and cost a few too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (12.80€). J6ESW

Entrecôte Restaurant C-2, Dunkri 6, tel. (+372) 697 75 10, [email protected], www.merchant-shousehotel.com. Laid out in a warren of nicely spruced-up cellar rooms, the Merchant's House Hotel's restaurant wins our praise for friendly service and its quiet and romantic ambience. You can find several meaty favourites on the small, easy to navigate menu, but what really won our hearts was the finest Wiener Schnitzel we've ever had in Tallinn. For daytime diners, you can also savour the full menu from the comfortable leather seats in the upstairs lounge. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. (12.45€). JHISW

Kalle Kusta C-3, Viru 21, tel. (+372) 644 95 27, [email protected], www.kallekusta.ee. One of the oldest 'tour-ist traps' in all of Tallinn, somehow we missed listing them. But if we must be honest, they haven't really been missed too badly. The quality of the food is on par with most older pubs around town, but the price for food ratio is a little skewed with the 'don't-pay-much-attention-to-the-price tourist' in mind. Not that it was awful, just mediocre and pricey for what we got. The cellar atmosphere was also a little lacking and left us feeling - what's the opposite of cosy? Beware of the sketchy character standing outside trying to tempt you into dining here. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (10€). PJ6XSW

Karl Friedrich C-2, Raekoja plats 5, tel. (+372) 627 24 13, [email protected], www.karlfriedrich.ee. This restaurant overlooking Raekoja Plats serves up roast duck shank and all manner of chicken and pork fillets in its nicely carpeted, wood-panelled, second floor dining room. The food here is rather decent, though the prices seem to have the free-spending tourist in mind. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (16.60€). TJIW

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NEH G-3, Lootsi 4, tel. (+372) 602 22 22, [email protected], www.neh.ee. What began as a seasonal establishment on the Island of Muhu during the summer months, proved so popular among Estonians that they decided to pack up the kitchen and move to Tallinn during the colder season. A self-described - ‘winter retreat for foodies’ - truly is such a culinary experience that locals reserve far in advance just to get a table here. They offer a less expensive lunch menu and a pricier, albeit more involved, dinner menu. Regardless of when you plan on checking it out - reserva-tions are indeed recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. (13-22€). PUL

Old Estonia C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 641 21 83, [email protected], www.oldestonia.ee. Taking full advantage of its prime Raekoja Plats position with a ceiling to floor glass front, Old Estonia is perfect for dedicated people watchers. The simple stylish menu is complimented by an extensive wine list compiled from wine regions across the globe. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (16€). TJUSW

Reval Café Restaurant D-2, Müürivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 81 00, [email protected], www.revalcafe.ee. At-tached to a café of the same name, this is the first full-fledged restaurant in the popular Reval chain and we have to admit it's certainly worth a try. The interior is cosy with an old-worldly feel, and the menu is dominated by a large selection of rich pastas and a variety of fillets. Our duck was succulent, how-ever our rosemary potatoes didn't seem to have much to do with rosemary, perhaps they were prepared by a woman with the same name and oddly enough, they cost extra. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10.85€). TJLXSW

Senso H-3, Liivalaia 33, tel. (+372) 631 58 70, [email protected], www.restoransenso.ee. With loads more character and cutting-edge décor than your typical hotel restaurant, Senso pulls in a good number of business people and other civilians from around town. The huge range of cuisine on offer includes sandwiches, burgers, pastas, pizzas and grilled items, all served with a professional (but not over-starched) manner. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. (14.70€). TULSW

Sfäär C-4, Mere pst 6e, tel. (+372) 56 99 22 00/(+372) 56 99 22 25, [email protected], www.sfaar.ee. In terms of décor, this eatery/fashion and wine shop is kind of a cross between an old Soviet-era cafeteria and a stylishly retro second living room. The 'New Estonian' cuisine with Italian leanings and the artisan breads certainly had us impressed, as did the com-plimentary (before 4pm) cucumber and citrus infused pitchers of water. We've already been back for seconds. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (8.30€). TLW

restaurants



ItalianDue, perhaps in part, to the influx of Italian men who have seemingly migrated to Tallinn because of the rather endless supply of long-legged blondes, the city has a plethora eater-ies in this category. We're not complaining though, both the food and the blondes are bella.

al Sole C-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 611 76 00, [email protected], alsole.viruinn.ee. Almost guaranteed a flow of customers thanks to its prime location on Viru tänav, this busy place is made up of a funky, foyer café and a more staid rear dining room. Cakes spin around in a glass case in between. The menu concentrates on familiar pasta dishes and a whack of juicy pizzas, which have been pretty decent every time we've had one. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (8.30€). JSW

Basiilik G-3, Hobujaama 5, in Coca-Cola Plaza, tel. (+372) 56 50 99 91, [email protected], www.basiilik.ee. Truly an unexpected find. Though not quite rivaling the best Italian cuisine in town, for a restaurant that's in a giant cinema house, Basilik is surprisingly high-quality. Soups, pastas and other mains are served by friendly staff in a nicer-than-average dining room. Crowds ebb and flow according to the film schedule. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (7.65€). W

Bocca B-3, Olevimägi 9, tel. (+372) 611 72 90, [email protected], www.bocca.ee. A smart, slick estab-lishment where you'd expect to run into super-chic members of Tallinn's A-list, or maybe a supermodel or two. Bocca delivers formal, professional service and an inventive array of pastas and filletos (fillets), all under the watchful eye of award-winning chef Nicolo Tanda. The attached loungy bar is a swank place for a post meal cognac. Make reservations on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13.00 - 22:00. (15.65€). J6S

Buongiorno D-3, Müürivahe 17, tel. (+372) 627 76 13, [email protected], www.buongiorno.ee. Infused with the powerful fragrance of garlic and decked out with unmistakably Italian mementoes, this small café leaves no room for doubt that there's the hand of a native at work here. More casual and less expensive than Old Town's other Italian choices, Buongiorno will treat you to an authentic and friendly experience. Rumour has it that quality has been down as of late, we'll let you be the judge. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (10€). J6

Complemento D-3, Viru 11, tel. (+372) 669 15 10, [email protected], www.vanawiru.ee. Once you get over the location - in the lobby of the Baltic Vana Wiru Hotel - you'll be surprised by the wonderful quality-to-price ratio here. A small selection of delicious fettucine and ravioli is complimented by a range of 'roasts', all served with hot rolls and stiff formality. We found the food to be quite good. One hint: make sure you're seated to the left as you come in or you'll be given a pub menu. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (7€). TJUL

Controvento C-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. (+372) 644 04 70, [email protected], www.controvento.ee. Decorated in a cosy combination of medieval Estonian and rustic Italian, this stylish eatery has been a favourite of expats and locals for years, and deservedly so. The food here is absolutely top notch, with excellent pastas and beef dishes complemented by a good selection of Italian wine. It's featured in every tourist guidebook, so be sure to make reservations. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45. (8.30€). JI

Vana Toomas C-2, Raekoja plats 10, tel. (+372) 631 42 27, [email protected], www.vanatoomas.ee. Named after the famous Town Hall weather vane that can ac-tually be seen from some of the tables here, this international-style restaurant/café offers fresh baked goods, pizzas, salads and other hearty but healthy dishes. While nothing fancy, the food is quite decent and they even present respectable and inexpensive breakfast options from 08:30 - 11:30 every day. We dare you to try the chocolate cake, you may or may not regret it. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. (14€). JW

Von Krahli Aed C-2, Rataskaevu 8, tel. (+372) 626 90 88, [email protected], www.vonkrahl.ee/toit/restor-anaed. The 'Garden' is a highly chic establishment with plenty of opportunity to lounge while enjoying a fresh meal or light snack. The emphasis here is on healthier choices and you can choose from mains that involve spelt, hemp seeds and other intriguing additions. They even mark items on the menu that contain gluten, eggs and lactose. We thought the duck fillet cooked at a low temperature with roasted vegetables and Põltsamaa wine sauce seemed rather interesting. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (6€). J

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41restaurants

Da Vinci/Café Leonardo C-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 641 61 77, [email protected], www.davincifood.ee. This small restaurant's bright, ochre walls and cheerful oil paintings give it a somewhat refined look without crossing over into formality. Menu items are certainly inventive, with white fish in zucchini pastry and canneloni stuffed with duck on offer. The pizza (4.15 - 7.50€) is the real treasure here though - it has all the right accessories and a good amount of spice. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (13.40€). T6UVSW

Fellini C-2, Kinga 1 (Raekoja Plats), tel. (+372) 631 47 75, [email protected], www.fellini.ee. Distinguished by its location above Town Hall Square (definitely ask for a window table!), Fellini offers pastas, meat and fish dishes in a subdued ambience that skirts the edge of formality. Live piano music two nights a week adds a romantic touch. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (16€). PTJESW

Gianni G-3, Jőe 4a, tel. (+372) 626 36 84, [email protected], www.gianni.ee. Think candlelight, champagne buckets and soft, swank modernity. A sophisticated, Italian restaurant like Gianni could pass muster anywhere in the world - this one just happens to be in Tallinn, off Narva mnt. in the direction of the port. Our ricotta-filled ravioli was expertly-prepared. Those looking for a less involved experience can head to the attached Gianni Café, open 09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (19.15€). 6UILSW

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Kärme Küülik D-2, Harju 7, tel. (+372) 699 96 80, www.kyylik.ee. Service at this ‘Italian’ restaurant was certainly friendly. The atmosphere was also quite cosy and emanated a certain warmth. The food on the other hand fell short of excellent. Our pizza was raw and even after it had been remade came back soggy in the middle and slightly raw. The advertised prosciutto was also nothing more than ham and not of the Parma variety. When we offered some friendly hints on how to ‘improve’ their performance, the suggestions were met with scepticism and the owner went on the defensive. Overall not a bad place, but with so many authentic Italian locations in Old Town, you might be best to skip this one.Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. (8€). JW

La Bottega C-3, Vene 4, tel. (+372) 627 77 33, [email protected], www.labottega.ee. Dreamt up by the creative minds who brought you the likes of Bocca, Ö, Chedi and a host of other stylish eateries, the Bottega is certainly just as 'spar-kling'. In fact, this restaurant is styled just like an upscale Italian 'shop' with shelves of wine and other delicacies stacked all the way to the very high ceiling. The cuisine is equally fresh and the service was not disappointing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (12.80€). J6S

Limoncello C-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 682 58 67, [email protected], www.limoncello.ee. Fresh, elegant and deli-cious are just three words that describe this revitalised eatery on Vene street. The ingredients that go into the cuisine combine the best locally available items with certain special touches from Italy. There are a variety of exceptional wines on hand and, as the name would suggest, enough Limoncello and inspired creations to go around. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (9.60€). JSW

Ombra C-2, Kullasepa 4, tel. (+372) 641 52 21, [email protected], www.ombra.ee. The idea behind this Italian place is simple - to offer delicious, but simple Italian cuisine for af-fordable prices to people who like to relax and enjoy life. The atmosphere is stylish but equally relaxed and the friendly staff are also quite happy to make sure you feel at home. If you stop by later in the evening you may just wind up drinking wine until the wee hours. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (9.60€). JW

Fish & Wine C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 662 30 13, [email protected], www.fw.ee. With its polished design, this large restaurant looks more like a trendy lounge at first glance. The friendly table service, however, extends all the way to complimentary roll and olive oil. As the name implies, a selection of, mainly, fish dishes makes up the menu, and if you're stuck, the wines by the glass 'go with everything'. Be aware that the price to portion ratio is a little lopsided, thank-God for the free bread. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. (9.80€). PJ6SW

Seafood



Below you'll find a list of venues that specialise in pizza, however, if you're looking for a 'special' pizza you may visit some of the Italian restaurants in town, which usually make an even better ‘pie’.

Peetri Pizza B-4, Mere pst 6, tel. (+372) 661 61 81, [email protected], www.peetripizza.ee. A local favourite, Peetri offers pizzas that we find - well, passable. Apart from this fairly simple café, it has various branches and stands all over town just in case you need that cheesy fix. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (5€). S

Pizza Americana D-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. (+372) 644 88 37, [email protected], www.americana.ee. Try any of the 60 varieties of thick tasty pizza at this little corner pizzeria and you'll be immobilised for days. Lunch specials for 5.45€ and 8.65€. Delivery 4.50€. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. TJLVS

Pizza Grande C/D-2/3, Väike-Karja 6, tel. (+372) 641 87 18, [email protected], www.pizzagrande.ee. Grande's signboard proudly displays the flag of that great pizza-making nation - Norway. Huh? Anyhow, the pizza in this cellar café is fairly tasty, and comes in three sizes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (6.40€). JS

Pizzeria al Sole C-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 611 76 17, [email protected], www.viruinn.ee. The classy, little pizzeria attached to the Viru Inn's al Sole restaurant uses an authentic, wood-burning oven, and the result is fresh and tasty. Pizzas 5.10 - 9.60€. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. J

Pizza

Osteria di Bacco D-3, Väike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 682 50 00, [email protected]. If the usual 'bar scene' doesn't tickle your fancy, you could always consider a more leisurely option like sipping a large glass of Italian red and enjoying some of Italy's most popular ‘finger food' items while being serenaded by a violinist. Savoury and sweet pies, pizza, paninis, ciabattas, and lasagne are some of the other items available during the daylight hours as well. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (11.50€). TJ6ESW

new

Pulcinella C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 682 54 37/(+372) 56 22 96 91, [email protected], www.pulcinellaitalianfood.com. Certainly one of the few actual delights we’ve had the pleasure of reviewing as of late, this very authentic, Neapolitan cellar-restaurant pulls all the stops to give you the complete experience. From the native chefs and owner to the sprawling miniature scene complete with running water, we quite enjoyed the ambiance. The cuisine was also delightful and our pizza one of the best we’ve had in Tallinn. There are so many layers to explore at Pulcinella and we look forward to going back to discover them all.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (12€). Closed Mon. JXS

Vapiano B-3, Hobujaama 10, tel. (+372) 682 90 10, [email protected], www.vapiano.ee. Vapiano is a European chain of self-service, market concept restaurants where the tantalising food is prepared right before your very eyes. When you arrive at the door you're greeted and given a plastic card, then proceed to the area of your choice to place your order (pasta, salad/antipasti or pizza) and the items are charged to the card. The majority of mouth-watering food items and fresh, that's right - fresh, pastas are dispatched quite quickly, the pizza doesn't take too long either, but you'll be given a pager that vibrates and blinks when your pie is piping hot. The prices are delightfully affordable and the food - bella! QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Also at: D/E-3/4 Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. 628 59 99. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (6€). UW

Lido D/E-3/4, Estonia pst 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 609 33 64, [email protected], www.lido.ee. What is a Latvian restaurant anyway? Lido is an institution in Latvia and practically every Estonian and their mother has been to at least one of the locations in Riga at least once. With their first satellite location now open in Estonia, you too can see what all the fuss is about. The market concept is pretty simple and the food quite hearty. Just grab a tray, and point at what you want, the prices are all listed and the helpings are rather large. You certainly won't leave Lido hungry. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (6.40€). TUSW

Latvian

restaurants


43restaurants

Sushi is currently quite popular in Tallinn these days and the number of places that offer the Japanese street food have sky-rocketed. Here is a list of just some of the many places around town offering sushi these days.

Silk Sushi Bar C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, (first floor), tel. (+372) 610 15 81, [email protected], www.silk.ee. The newest addition to the Silk sushi family is located conveniently in a shopping centre. Eight-piece maki run 1.90 - 12.45€, nigiri 1.90 - 3.85€, and combos range 14 - 31.30€. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. USW

Sushi Cat H-3, Roosikrantsi 16, tel. (+372) 682 52 33, [email protected], www.sushicat.ee. The weird and wonderful world of Japanese pop culture roars at Sushi Cat, a bright, upbeat café where the décor, and even the waitresses, are done up like naughty/sexy manga characters. Settle into a pink seat and watch the bewilder-ing music videos. It's far more casual and affordable than its rivals - the sushi comes in sets ranging from 'kitten' (3.90€) to 'lion' (12.80€), all of which include green tea and miso soup. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. T6VSW

Sushihouse D-3, Estonia pst 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 682 57 77, [email protected], www.sushihouse.ee. Located in the sparkling Solaris centre and the recipient of a silver spoon gastronomy award, this sushi bar presents five-piece maki ranging from 1.80 - 4.15€, nigiri 0.77 - 2.25€, and combos 4.45 - 20.75€. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. JSW

Zebra Café G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. (+372) 610 92 30, [email protected], www.zebracafe.ee. A little on the pricey end of the chopstick but very professionally prepared, this trendy lounge restaurant offers up eight-piece maki for 6.70 - 15€, nigiri 1.90 - 4.15€ and combos 19.80 - 35.45€. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. VS

Sushi

Japanese Sakura E-3, Sakala 20, tel. (+372) 648 44 77, [email protected], www.restoransakura.ee. This rein-carnation of 'Sakura' was overall quite satisfactory. Although we did not see anyone working here of Japanese ancestry, the chefs that currently staff it probably learned a thing or two from a former head chef from the island of Nippon. You can find all manner of sashimi, nigiri, maki as well as some hot Japanese specialities to round it all out. We quite liked everything we had and the service, at least on that day, was efficient and came with a smile. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (5.40€). PT6LVSW

Silk C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 648 46 25, [email protected], www.silk.ee. Just off the square, this sleek and trendy sushi spot has made a big splash with those who are willing to spend. All varieties are available - maki sushi, baked sushi, spicy sushi, etc. Eight-piece maki dishes generally run1.60 - 6.07€, while larger assortments go from 14.70 - 31.30€. Other Japanese dishes are also available in the tasteful, black-lined restaurant. You can even order sushi online and have it delivered to your hotel. See www.silk.ee for more details. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 15, tel. 661 60 99. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (8.95€). JW


44 restaurants

Medieval Maikrahv C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 631 42 27/(+372) 55 51 45 17, [email protected], www.maikrahv.ee. Named for the 'May Count' of Tallinn's me-dieval days of yore, this respectable establishment hidden under Town Hall Square hints at old-style regality all the while providing a decidedly modern and down-to-earth din-ing experience that won't bust your budget. The menu is international, dominated by fillets with a couple of pastas thrown in for good measure. Delicately prepared food and professional service made the experience come off without a hitch. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (14.40€). TJES

Olde Hansa C-2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20, [email protected], www.oldehansa.ee. Many frequent travellers would say that you haven't really been to Tallinn unless you've visited Olde Hansa. This mecca of medievaldom in the heart of Old Town doesn't just serve historically authentic fare made from carefully-researched recipes, it provides guests with a whole experience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and waitresses in period costume and medieval background music. Cham-ber musicians round out the ambience every night of the week. Make sure to check out Olde Hansa's newest addition called the Waggehus located just around the corner at Vanaturu Kael 8. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (13€). J6UIES

Peppersack C-2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372) 646 68 00, [email protected], www.peppersack.ee. Peppersack makes wonderful use of the 15th-century building it calls home - both the vast main hall and the more intimate rooms further back exude comfy medieval-ness. The menu is European-based and fun-loving, with clever choices like Lady Margareta's weakness (chicken fillet) and Mansion Lord's contemplation (duck fillet). The fresh, hot rolls are a nice touch. From Tues-Sat at 20:00 there's a theatrical swordfight on the staircase, on Fridays and Saturdays followed by Oriental dancing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (10.85€). TJES

Meaty choices Grillhaus Daube D-2, Rüütli 11, tel. (+372) 645 55 31, [email protected], www.daube.ee. A huge step up from the typical throw-the-pork-on-the-fire grill house, Daube is a roomy, two-floor affair decorated in a warm style that's the very definition of 'smart casual'. Expect smiling service and happy tastebuds. Find it in a nicely redone little house just off Harju street. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (11.20€). JIS

Hopner C-2/3, Vanaturu kael 3, tel. (+372) 641 83 58, [email protected], www.hopner.ee. Given the tiny sign, it's easy to walk right by this historic little cellar restaurant just off Town Hall Square, but perhaps you shouldn't. The new owners have revived the place as a grill restaurant and the focus is meat, meat and more meat. Prices are still a little high compared with the overall pub-like quality of the dishes, but it's par for the course given the location. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (14.40€). J

Madissoni Grill & Baar D-4, Rävala pst. 3 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+372) 682 34 22, [email protected], www.madissoni.ee. The name rhymes with Radisson, as in Radis-son Blu, the towering hotel to which this two-storey grill-bar is attached. Gigantic windows, slick design and TVs tuned to sat-ellite channels give it that familiar international feel. In addition to pricier items from the grill, the menu includes a club sandwich and a bacon cheeseburger. On weekdays it also works as a breakfast café. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (12.80€). T6ULSW

Munga Kelder C-3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 46 14, [email protected], www.mungakelder.ee. Overtly geared toward tourists, the Monk's Cellar is essentially a basement bar turned upscale by the clever use of table linen and glasses. Meat and fish dishes are served up along with awful, saxophone versions of 70s hits. The salmon in foil was mediocre and the service indifferent. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (11.80€). JI

Oliver C-3, Viru 3, tel. (+372) 630 78 98/(+372) 53 47 47 41, [email protected], www.oliver.ee. A diligent, carved wooden waiter spends all day long on Viru tänav trying to en-tice people into this cellar restaurant, where meaty items like entrecote and steak dominate the menu. Other choices such as a vegetable wok are available to the less protein inclined. We've heard a few good reviews about the food and service as of late and the kids play area and eight-page children's menu certainly make this a good stop for families. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (13.75€). TJUIESW

Revalia Grill House C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 641 21 83, [email protected], www.restaurant-revalia.ee. With its enviable location right on Old Town's main square, Revalia is never wanting for customers. The interior décor makes it look a bit like an art shop, but there's no mistaking the menu - tenderloin steaks and other grill items of the type that are popular around this part of Europe. Crepes available too. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (16€). TJUSW

Steakhouse Liivi C-4, Narva mnt. 1 (ground floor of post office), tel. (+372) 617 70 55, [email protected], www.steakhouse.ee. The Steakhouse's odd location inside the Soviet-era Central Post Office building and its early nineties décor leaves a little to be desired, regardless of the fact that they have quite an extensive menu loaded with beef. The food, which reminded us more of a glorified pub meal is nothing fancy, nevertheless our steak was first-rate, even if we did pay through the nose for it. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (12.80€). PTUXSW

Clayhills Gastropub C-2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641 93 12, [email protected], www.clayhills.ee. The first of its kind in the Baltics, Clayhills Gas-tropub has raised the bar high. With executive chef Riho Heinmets (formerly of the Three Sisters) at the kitchen's helm, the fresh cuisine is more along the lines of a Michelin Star restaurant than that of a pub. Fortunately you won't have to pay Michelin level prices. The rich interior is heavily garnished with leather and the cellar is well stocked with quality beers and wines alike. The service also comes with a smile and the atmosphere is brimming with warmth. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (9.60€). J6EW

Gastropub

restaurants



Middle Eastern Bazar H-1, Tulika pőik 3/Madara 14, tel. (+372) 660 93 77, [email protected], www.bazar.ee. This restaurant provides just the right touch of exotic, but its enormous popularity is probably down to the sheik-sized portions of Arabian dishes and kebabs served here. It gets crowded on weekends, so make reservations and don't be surprised if flagging down a waitress takes a little effort. They've also got water pipes available for anyone wishing to complete the experience. The last time we popped by the menus were in Estonian only, however the staff did speak English. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (5€). LEX

Cubanita G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel. (+372) 664 04 22, [email protected], www.cubanita.ee. Given its size and snazzy decor you would expect this restaurant/café/lounge to provide one with a culinary experience worth telling friends about - it does not. Where it does shine though is in the nightlife genre. They have an extensive range of cocktails, Cuban and otherwise, some great Latin-oriented live music from Thursdays to Saturdays and some decent appetisers to go with your drinks. Be sure to check their website for performance schedules. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 00:00. 1st floor Deli&Cafe open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (7€). PEXSW

Latin American

Mediterranean Sisalik B-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 646 65 42, [email protected], www.sisaliku.ee. The lizard (Sisalik) indeed is crawling with the little scaly guys, well, most of the rep-tiles here are of the plastic persuasion, but they actually do have a terrarium in back with some living breathing representatives as well. Regardless of their fascination with scaly creepy crawlers, this Mediterranean-style cel-lar restaurant certainly aims to please - and they do on most counts. We do however have qualms with the fact that they charge extra for a side dish when the mains aren't exactly inexpensive. On the plus side, the service was excellent and they do offer ice-water and toasted flat bread at no charge. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (11.80€). TJ

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47restaurants

RussianBalalaika H-2, Paldiski mnt 4 (Meriton Grand Confer-ence & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 667 71 20, [email protected], www.meritonhotels.com/russian+restaurant/. This Russian restaurant located in the flagship Meriton hotel at the base of Toompea, offers up all the usual Russian fare you’d expect, such as caviar and blinis and the dishes are all prepared quite nicely. One thing though that sets Balalaika apart from the others is that they also offer a cold zakuska buffet, presented in an antique carriage from St. Petersburg - that, and the complimentary half-shot of vodka of course. Na Zdorovie!QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00. (15.50€). PULW

Café Pushkin C-4, Mere pst 5, tel. (+372) 631 37 65/(+372) 631 36 36, [email protected], www.cafepushkin.ee. While other Russian places are geared towards tourists, Café Pushkin is where the local Russians, including politicos and celebs, come to eat. The bliny (pan-cakes) are said to be the best in the city. A long list of other Russian favourites is on offer, including the triple ukha (fish soup) and the Boyar (rolled beef stuffed with cherries and walnuts). QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. JSW

Klafira C-3, Vene 4, tel. (+372) 58 37 73 33, [email protected], www.klafira.ee. If it's an aristocratic Russian experience you're after, Klafira, strategically located on Vene tänav (Russian Street) is the perfect place. Beautifully deco-rated to take you back to the wealth of 19th-century Russia, the cosy, old style atmosphere and friendly service more that make up for the pricey food. All the favourite Russian delights can be found on the menu and a few more exotic ones for adventurous diners. Live Russian music will keep you entertained if your company isn't doing the job. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (14€). J6ES

Nevskij C-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628 65 65, [email protected], www.nevskij.ee. Given the way the St. Petersbourg Hotel's high-class restaurant is decorated, it might very well be mistaken for Russian intellectual's sitting room, were it not for the fact that a smart waiter greets you at your table with a vodka and caviar menu. Classic aristocratic staples are on offer and are done in a way that shows a clever chef at work. We enjoyed our food, and the fact that the complimentary vodka shots seemed to keep coming. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (15.50€). PJIESW

Tchaikovsky C-3, Hotel Telegraaf, Vene 9, tel. (+372) 600 06 10, [email protected], www.telegraafhotel.com. Located in the beautifully renovated Telegraaf and much more opulent than most hotel restau-rants, the Tchaikovsky is a luxury Russian-French-fusion affair dedicated to preparing culinary delights reminiscent of fine cuisines from a whole other era. Here you'll find flaky pastry crusts, succulent shrimps and fine wines fit for the Tsar, and if you're lucky he'll offer to pay as well. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (17€). PJUILEW

Troika C-2, Raekoja plats 15, tel. (+372) 627 62 45, [email protected], www.troika.ee. One of Tallinn's must-see cellar restaurants, Troika wows its clientele with a cosy, old-style Russian décor and a singer who belts out folk songs from a balcony from time to time. (When choosing your table, you may want to consider just how close you want to be to this spectacle.) But the best thing about this place is the food - excellent bliny and pelmeni as well as a selection of traditional main courses. Great service. Book ahead. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (12.50€). JUIEX



Spanish Tapas Bar & Restaurant H-2, Paldiski mnt 4 (Meriton Grand Conference & Spa hotel), tel. (+372) 667 71 10, [email protected], www.meritonhotels.com. If you've ever been to Spain you'll know that tapas are a very important part of the easy going lifestyle there. Now, diners in Tallinn can also appreciate these little bite sized temptations (2.25 - 3.50€), alongside a full bodied Spanish red, accompanied by well endowed blonde or in the company of good friends. If you'd rather not fill up completely on tapas, they've got a decent selection of other Spanish delicacies. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Also at: Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel, B-3, Pikk 29, tel. 664 88 03. Open 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (6.40€). J6UILSW

Tex-Mex Amarillo C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 92 80, [email protected], www.amarillo.ee. Bright, friendly colours, hot (spicy) food, and a professional outlook set Ama-rillo a notch or two above most other Tex-Mex contenders. More Yankee choices like burgers and pizzas are as available as quesadillas and fajitas. The vast dining area and large kid's play corner, make this restaurant on the ground floor of the Sokos Viru Hotel a great choice for families, while two bars cater to an after-work crowd. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (11.50€). TULES

Cantina Carramba G-5, Weizenbergi 20a, tel. (+372) 601 34 31, [email protected], www.carramba.ee. Something this, well, Mexican is a surprise find out in the Kadriorg neighbourhood. One advantage Carramba has over its competitors, besides the inviting pueblo décor, is the spice level - Carramba doesn't skimp on the peppers, and even the otherwise innocent-looking rice is fiery. The enchiladas, burritos, fajitas, etc that make up the menu might not be up to expectations. Among the appetisers, go straight for the hot wings. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (10.55€). T6S

Taco Express D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 682 55 08, [email protected], www.tacoexpress.ee. Beware of the hot sauce! It's twice as hot coming out. Although not overly authentic, Express certainly does fill a niche in Tallinn. They've got loads of pseudo Mexican choices available, in different combinations and with varying degrees of heat. There are also pizzas available, a fair amount of vegetar-ian items and a few breakfast choices, including the ever popular breakfast burrito. All aboard the Taco Express, let's see where it takes us. QOpen 07:30 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. (6.50€). JSW

Thai Krua C-4, Vana-Viru 13, tel. (+372) 646 26 13, [email protected], www.krua.ee. One of the few truly Thai places in the city, Krua disappointed us. Don't get us wrong, the food that we finally managed to eat, after a frightfully long wait, was quite fresh and decent - but the service was a nightmare and it appeared that the waitress we had was in fact 'newer' than the restaurant itself. Even our beer took over half an hour to get to us and after a few false food deliveries we were told that they had run out of spring rolls that we had ordered. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (11.50€). JSW

Villa Thai G-4, J. Vilmsi 6, tel. (+372) 641 93 47, [email protected], www.villathai.ee. A well-established favourite in the Kadriorg district just outside the city centre, the Villa is a quiet, comfortable affair. Sit with the ceramic elephants and drapery of the dining room or head to the bamboo-filled atrium with its gurgling fountain. Interestingly, the menu goes well beyond Thailand, encompassing Viet-namese, Indonesian, Malaysian and Tandoor dishes. Some dishes are on the heavy side. We liked the fish cakes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (8€). TUSW

Theme restaurants Korsaar C-2, Dunkri 5 (Beer House), tel. (+372) 666 8064, [email protected], www.korsaar.ee. Avast mat-eys! If you've ever dreamed of running away to become a pirate or a wench, now's your chance. This stunning pirate-themed restaurant goes way beyond anything we've ever seen in terms of attention to detail and authenticity. From gangplanks to shark tanks, this subterranean grotto has everything covered. The international food is equally fantastic, with leanings on the creole and seafood side of the port bow. Please note that due to the sometimes frightening nature of pirate business, parents should think twice before bringing children younger than 12 to Korsaar. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (19.15€). PJXS

Le Château B-2, Lai 19, tel. (+372) 665 09 28, [email protected], www.chateau.ee. Elaborately done up in the style of old France (think musketeers, etc), Le Château is of Tallinn's best-kept secrets. Essentially it's an el-egant, candle-lit cellar full of heavy, wooden furniture and staff in 16th-century French garb. The real treat here though is the food - particularly the high-value lunch specials. If you come for dinner, be sure to try the soup, served in an enormous terrine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (10.55€). JL

Turg C-2, Mündi 3, tel. (+372) 641 24 56, [email protected], www.turg.ee. The name in Estonian means ‘market' and that's exactly what this theatricaly-decorated cellar restaurant looks like inside - a classic, outdoor market square, complete with overhanging eves, a tree, chirping birds and some faux produce. That doesn't mean you can haggle over menu prices though. The food on offer tends towards the Eastern European with a few Italian pizzas thrown in for good measure. For the frugal try the lunch buffet on offer Mon to Fri between 11:30 and 15:00. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (9.60€). JS

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49restaurants

UpscaleBordoo A/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630 63 55, [email protected], www.threesist-ershotel.com. Estonian for Bordeaux, the Three Sisters restaurant is in a class unto itself. The stylish interior combines a new world elegance with hints of its old world surroundings. Headed up by award-winning chef Tõnis Siigur and his energetic team, the focus here is on fresh local ingredients brought to life with creativity and flavour-ful ideas. To top it all off, they also create their very own artisan breads, scrumptious marmalades and to-die-for desserts. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22.35€). J

Egoist B-3, Vene 33, tel. (+372) 646 40 52, [email protected], www.egoist.ee. Take all trappings of an old-fashioned, high-class restaurant - the chandeliers, the antiques, the tie-clad diners - multiply the decadence by three, and you'll get some idea of what the award-winning Egoist is all about. The sister restaurant to Gloria, this exclusive establishment has an equally impressive menu, offering choices like lobster carpaccio, pan-fried foie gras and elk fillet noisettes. Book ahead, dress to impress and ring the bell to enter. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (25.55€). J

Gloria D-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. (+372) 640 68 00, [email protected], www.gloria.ee. Gloria has been syn-onymous with class and style since it opened in 1937, and once you get a look at the intricate, pre-war interior, you'll understand why this was the restaurant of choice for the Pope and several visiting heads of state. In case you need more convincing, Condé Nast named Gloria one of the world's 100 best. We found our meal here a relax-ing, well-orchistrated experience. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (21.70€). TJLSW

Kuninga Restoran C-2, Kuninga 3, tel. (+372) 646 60 08, [email protected], www.kuninga.eu. This sparkling new establishment in Old Town is a café slash restaurant and fills both needs quite nicely. The interior is a nice blend of antique and contemporary and the cuisine was also delightfully prepared - portion-wise perhaps more fitting for a supermodel than a hungry man though. Complimentary canapé, home-made roll, hand-crafted goat's milk butter and a decent wine selection round out the experience. Desserts looked quite tempting as well. QOpen 12:00 - 23.00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (19.15€). PTJSW

Restoran Margarita C-2/3, Suur-Karja 7/Väike-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 699 97 00/(+372) 699 97 15, www.barons.ee. Dress up a bit to feel in tune at this swank, 1930s-style hotel restaurant. I f the windows overlooking Old Town's busy pedestrian streets aren't reason enough to make Barons your dinner destination, the intriguing menu will be. Escargots and rabbit are on the appetiser list, while the main courses are clever creations based on fish, duck, lamb and boar. QOpen 07:00 - 11:00; 18:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 11:00; 18:00 - 20:00. (12.80€). JUXW

Stenhus C-3, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 80, [email protected], www.stenhus.ee. The Schlössle hotel's venerated cellar restaurant is an elegant refuge decorated with colourful swaths of cloth that bring to mind a fairytale castle. Everything on the menu is exquisitely prepared by a team of award-winning chefs, making it well worth the price. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (16€). J6IXSW


50 CafÉs CafÉs

Loads of little bakeries and cafés around town churn out tempting pastries and provide coffee and tables to let you indulge on the spot. Here we have listed just a few that specialise in baked goods.

Coco D-3, Estonia pst 9, (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 672 27 22. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. JS

Karja Café C-2, Suur-Karja 3, tel. (+372) 644 43 65, [email protected]. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. JSW

Mademoiselle B-3, Pikk 29 (Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 06, www.meriton-hotels.com. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. JS

Pagaripoisid C-2, Nunne 11, tel. (+372) 641 67 00, [email protected], www.pagaripoisid.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JS

Peppersack C-2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372) 646 69 95, [email protected], www.peppersack.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JS

Bakeries

Classic cafésThe staple formula of a bunch of little, round tables and a pastry counter has served Tallinn well for years. It's not that these places don't have ambience - they do, but they're more for grabbing a bite on the run than for settling in.

Anneli Viik Handmade Chocolates Café B-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 644 45 30, [email protected], www.anneliviik.ee. Chocoholics beware! This little, Old Town café features Anneli Viik's handmade chocolates, made on the spot and sold either by the box for take-away, or in smaller portions to accompany your coffee (or light food or cognac, etc). There's even a glass wall that lets you watch the chocolatiers do their stuff. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. J6USW

Café Rose C-2, Voorimehe 4, tel. (+372) 55 52 56 58/(+372) 56 66 76 89, [email protected]. Tucked into a side street, this Lilliputian-sized café kind of reminds you of Grandmas place, only they charge you for the tea and biscuits. We'd recommend it to anyone who either misses Grandma or is doing research for a book on older women that have more than three cats and garden a lot. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. J6USW

Kohvik Julius D-2, Harju 40a, tel. (+372) 55 51 57 36, [email protected]. With its perfect views onto the park and bustling Harju street, this little café serves up some great Vi-ennese coffee, pastries and some excellent people watching possibilities - both in summer and winter, thanks to being right next to the ice rink. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JB

Kohvituba B-2, Lai 26, tel. (+372) 508 60 68, [email protected], www.kohvituba.ee. The things that make this tiny café special are its minute proportions, its fresh cakes and ultra quaint and romantic atmosphere. It's the kind of place you'd want to bring Grandma after church or a friend you haven't seen in a while. The prices are quite reasonable and the sheer size of the coffee list is commendable. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JS

La Boheme G/H-2, Toompuiestee 23, tel. (+372) 660 07 11, [email protected], www.laboheme.ee. Nicely done up with stone walls and cheerful orange tables, this slick little café is a great stopping place for big, fresh, inexpensive pastries. More exotic items like passion fruit milkshakes and couscous salads are on offer, and the aquarium counter is an interesting addition. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (10€). TUSW

Mademoiselle B-3, Pikk 29 (Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 06, [email protected], www.meritonhotels.com. Considered for years to be one of Tallinn's best places to get a delectable dessert, this classic café still lives up to its reputation. Along with the many calorie-laden treats on offer, you can also find a few decent savoury meals and a couple of breakfast options at each of the four locations around town. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Also at: Meriton Old Town Hotel, A-3, Lai 49, tel. (+372) 614 13 50. Open 10:00 - 15:00. Also at: H-2, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski mnt 4, tel. (+372) 628 81 55. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (6.40€). TJSW

Maiasmokk C-2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 40 79, www.kalev.eu/maiasmokk/kohvik. Tallinn's oldest café, the Sweet Tooth has been serving marzipan and other treats since it opened way back in 1864. Drop in for elaborate cakes, cheap coffee, and an amazing, pre-war interior. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:30 - 17:00. J

Pikajala C-1, Pikk jalg 16, tel. (+372) 648 14 28. There aren't too many places to grab a bite or a coffee when you reach the top of the hill that is Toompea, but this is one of them. This reincarnation of an old tourist trap of the same name has actually gotten much better and although the menu isn't extensive, what they do serve is quite tasty and won't break the bank. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. J

Reval Café Vene 1 C-2/3, Vene 1, tel. (+372) 644 64 73, [email protected], www.revalcafe.ee. It's the one with the giant mocha pot. The atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable, the perfect spot to lounge out with a cup of joe and a friend. If you'd rather have a read with your cof-fee, head upstairs where there's less noise. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:30 - 21:00. (5.10€). J6UIESW

Saiakang C-2, Saiakang 3/5, tel. (+372) 644 30 55. One of the last of Old Town's simple and cheap cafés. Here you'll find plenty of salads, pastries and frugal, old folks. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J

CafÉs


51CafÉs

Up for a nostalgia trip? Without really trying, some cafés have retained the essence of the USSR in all its tacky glory.

Energia Kohvik D-4, Kaubamaja 4, tel. (+372) 660 47 06. This busy café next to a main trolleybus stop offers dim lighting, suspicious little sandwiches and a hideous interior. No wonder the Soviet Union was so feared. Bus your own tray. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Narva Kohvik G-3, Narva mnt. 10, tel. (+372) 660 17 86, www.kohviknarva.ee. The heavy and some-what overdone interior falls somewhere between cosy and ominous, but this old-timer's continued popularity is probably down to sticking to the same formula: keeping everything simple and cheap. Peruse the attached bakery or just slip into the long, dark salon and brood. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Soviet chic

FashionableTallinn's most en vogue cafés all offer full meals as well as the satisfaction that you're with the 'in' crowd.

Bonaparte Bistroo G-3, Narva mnt. 5 (The Foorum Centre), tel. (+372) 682 50 24, [email protected], bistroo.bonaparte.ee. This bright and cheerful establish-ment in the Foorum shopping centre brings with it all of the goodness you'd expect from the Estonian Bonaparte chain. Mouth-watering pastries, fresh daily dishes, delightful cakes and excellent coffee. Great place for a quiet chat or to hunker down with a book a just can't put down. Now featuring a vegan menu for those not in touch with their omnivorous ancestry. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. T6USW

Mosaiik D-2, Kaarli pst. 2, tel. (+372) 682 55 41, [email protected], www.mosaiikcafe.ee. Right next to the revived Vabaduse Väljak this full service café is functional and charming. It's a great place to stop by for a cake and coffee or even a bite or two of warm food and it won't blow the budget. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (5.75€). JUW

Spirit Café B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 661 61 51, [email protected], www.kohvikspirit.ee. Designers apparently couldn't decide if they were making a sushi bar or a living room, so this cushy café/restaurant ends up with a feel that's both exclusive and comfy. A small selection of soups, mains and pastas is available, but mostly it's sushi here, with combos from 95 to 230kr. The food is tasty, the crowd is chic and the entrance is in the back - it's always better through the back door isn't it? QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (11.80€). 6SW

Wabadus D-2, Vabaduse Väljak 10, tel. (+372) 644 42 32/(+372) 510 07 57, [email protected], www.wabadus.ee. The newest incarnation of this eatery, formerly known as Moskva and Kultus, just happens to hit the nail right on the head - so to speak. From the clean interior design and 1930's inspired outfits to the delightfully prepared dishes and the snappy service Wabadus will transport you back in time. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (10€). JEW

Stylish & CosyThese classy establishments are best for long chats with friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your next novel.

Bogapott C-1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. Tucked into part of a medieval town wall on Toom-pea, the family-run Bogapott is a cosy, otherworldly hideaway. Fresh, flaky pastries and sandwiches are the speciality in this combination café, art shop and ceramics studio. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JI

C'est La Vie C-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48, [email protected], www.cestlavie.ee. This swanky establishment's 1930's style interior will have you dancing the Charleston. The cuisine certainly has a French bent to it, and the romantic ambience makes this a great choice for a date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (14.50€). TJ6UESW

Josephine C-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 641 82 91, [email protected], www.pierre.ee. Brought to you by the same fine chocolatiers as Pierre located in the courtyard just down the street, the atmosphere at Josephine is quite a bit different a little swankier, and oh man, you have got to try the handmade chocolate. This is not a bad place to indulge your yourself in decadence. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JNW

Kehrwieder Chocolaterie C-2, Saiakang 1 (Raekoja Plats), tel. (+372) 55 54 74 36, [email protected], www.kohvik.ee. One of the best cafés in town for ambi-ence, Kehrweider is a snug warren of cave-like stone rooms filled with quirky, old furniture. Excellent gourmet coffees, handmade chocolates and the Town Hall Square location are other plusses, but be warned it can get crowded here. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. JSW

Kohvik Komeet D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 614 00 90, [email protected], www.koh-vikkomeet.ee. This gem of a café located in the sparkling new Solaris centre has great views, fresh foods and above all, killer desserts. Did we mention the awesome desserts? Because if you come here you should really try some of their excellent desserts. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (7€). PT6USW

Matilda C-2, Lühike jalg 4, tel. (+372) 681 65 90, [email protected], www.matilda.ee. A seething den of flowers and femininity, this cutesy little café was once home to the medieval artist Michel Sittow and specialises in delicious cakes, such as the Pavlova tort and Marnier biscuit roll, all made right on the spot. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. J6SW

Pierre Chocolaterie C-3, Vene 6 (in the courtyard), tel. (+372) 641 80 61, [email protected], www.pierre.ee. People squeeze into this quaint, frilly, 19th-century style café for two reasons: One is that it has its own master Chocolatier who cooks up truffles from scratch, and the other is the unbeatably cosy atmosphere. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. JW

Reval Café Müürivahe 14 D-2, Müürivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 81 00, [email protected], www.revalcafe.ee. The modish combination of jagged, medieval brick and cushy furnishings could only work in a place like Tallinn. Fine for intense philosophical debates or dessert. If debating has gotten you truly hungry, check out the restaurant in the back. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:30 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. (9.60€). TJ6UILXSW


52 nightlife nightlife

One could get the impression that Estonians are hopeless party animals. For a town its size, Tallinn has a suspi-ciously high number of bars and nightclubs. But for foreign visitors, this just means there’s more variety on offer. This section is designed to help you pick the nightspot that suits your mood, whatever that may be.

Expat hangoutsWhether or not you consider it a stamp of approval, these bars and pubs are where Tallinn's expats, and more than a few tourists, tend to congregate.

Cafe VS E-2, Pärnu mnt 28, tel. (+372) 627 26 27, [email protected], www.cafevs.ee. You will never be alone in this groovy well-established favourite bar of locals and expats alike, which interestingly doubles as an Indian restaurant. There's always a vibrant ambience which, depending on the time of day, will have you chilling on the comfy lounges or grooving when the DJs are in the house later in the evening. Head to the more intimate room downstairs for a bit of privacy. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. USW

Clayhills Gastropub C-2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641 93 12, [email protected], www.clayhills.ee. Gas-tronomical delights by day and a great place to hang out by night, Clayhills offers up a healthy selection of local and imported beers, heart-warming and creative pub cuisine and a healthy dose of live music on weekend evenings. You'll also be able to catch the latest football match on the big screens or watch Tallinn pass you by from the great outdoor terrace during the warmer months. This is the evolution of ‘the pub'. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. J6EW

Hell Hunt B-3, Pikk 39, tel. (+372) 681 83 33, [email protected], www.hellhunt.ee. If you just want to grab a beer with friends and avoid the tourist scene, Hell Hunt (The Gentle Wolf) is probably your best bet. An open, comfortable drinking establishment with a strong sense of style, it pulls in the locals by the droves with its no-nonsense atmosphere. While here, try the pub's own brand of light and dark beers (brewed in Viru Õlu). Good, cheap food too. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. Age restriction 18+. J6IEXW

Molly Malone's C-2, Mündi 2, tel. (+372) 631 30 16, www.mollymalones.ee. Right on Town Hall Square, this roomy Irish pub has become a popular meeting spot, particularly for male tourists and business travellers. In an effort to draw a younger crowd though, it has now been given a sports-bar makeover, with added TVs, etc. Live bands get the place buzzing on weekends, but you can find at least a small crowd here just about every night of the week. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. JEW

Nimeta Baar (The Pub with No Name) C/D-3, Suur-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 641 15 15/(+372) 56 49 14 91, [email protected], www.nimetabaar.ee. In case the flags hanging out front don't give it away, Nimeta is the quint-essential expat bar. At times it looks like something between a British stag party hangout and an expat boys' club, but a good number of locals and backpacker types make it more interesting, especially on weekends when DJs get people into the dancing mood. A good place to watch sports and/or eat pub food. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. Age restriction 18+. JUXW

Tonic D-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 680 76 17, www.tonic.ee. The pub formerly known as Nimega (The Bar With a Name), is still a very lively locale on Old Town's main bar street. This nightlife reincarnation hopes to attract a slightly more urbane crowd than those who used to come here for cheap drinks. The air here is still generally one of boy-meets-girl and on weekends, the little dance area in back sees plenty of action. QOpen , Mon, Tue 10:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 07:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. JXW

Puff to your heart's content in these highly urbane shop/lounges.

Chicago 1933 C-3, Aia 3, tel. (372) 627 12 66, [email protected], www.chicago.ee. This is hands-down, the best cigar lounge in the city. The lounge comprises the entire upstairs floor of the restaurant, contains a walk-in humidor, a copious amount of fine cigars and more cognac than could kill the entire line-up at the Kentucky Derby - that's horses and jockeys. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JUXSW

Sigari Maja (Davidoff) C-2, Raekoja plats 16, tel. (+372) 631 47 35, [email protected]. The quiet, old-fashioned luxury at the Cigar House extends to wood panelling, a fireplace and busts of ancient Greek philosophers. If you want to sink into a leather sofa and sip expensive brandy, this is the place. A wide selection of Cuban, Dominican and other cigars on offer. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Age restriction 21+. JIX

Cigar lounges

nightlife


53nightlife

I f you want to get in good with the locals, it never hurts to learn how to toast in the national language. Luckily it’s fairly simple here: Estonians toast by clinking their glasses and saying ‘Terviseks’ (health). It’s crucial, however, that you look your drinking companion in the eye just as your glasses are clinking. If you miss this step, the toast doesn’t count and you’ll have to start all over!

How to toast in EstonianEstonian styleIf you're looking for a bit of local flavour, try these.

Hellemani Kõrts C-3, Müürivahe 50, tel. (+372) 646 43 33/(+372) 56 67 43 65, [email protected], www.helleman.ee. For some good-old-fashioned hospitality, atten-tive service and a fantastic location, the Hellemani, which is tucked inside the base of a fortification tower, impressed us. Great for groups or just a couple of friends who want a beer and snacks, the home-style food was simple but fulfilling. Oh, and if you're looking for a modern rendition of a tin battle helmet it's yours for just 32€. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (6.40€). JSW

Karja Kelder C/D-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 644 10 08/(+372) 644 65 87, [email protected], www.kar-jakelder.ee. A well-loved Old Town pub with a more relaxed, local feel than its expat-oriented neighbours, Karja Kelder is definitely one to seek out. The variety of cheap beer (and food) makes it a hit, as do the occasional live bands. One caveat is that it gets crowded in the evening, necessitating a totalitarian coat-check policy. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. (5.10€). JESW

new

Kõrts Inn Krug C-2, Raekoja plats 1 (Town Hall), tel. (+372) 627 90 20. Tucked into the corner of Tallinn's famous Town Hall, this teensy-weensy tavern has both a historic ambience and an enviable location. Better still, it's owned by Olde Hansa so it's guaranteed to be a great locale to grab a soup, pastry or a pint of 'mead'. All drinks are 2€, food is 1€ and brine pickles in the barrel are FREE! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. J

Traveller's Pub and Club (Seiklusjutte maalt ja merelt) H-4, Tartu mnt. 44, tel. (+372) 601 07 62, [email protected], www.seiklusjutte.ee. Named for Estonia's favourite collection of adventure stories, this popular local has a warm, airy, lodge-like feel - a sharp contrast to the nearby market area. There are plenty of maps and globes here to help you plan your expedition to Danger Island, or the Centre of the Earth or wherever. Big-screen TV and comfy chairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (6€). IESW

Valli Baar D-2, Müürivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 83 79. The Valli is definitely one Tallinn establishment you need to check out. Let's just say that i t is so full of ‘local colour', it even had a documentary made about it recently. I t's also a well known fact that attractive blondes often head here for the house speciali ty 'Millimallikas' cocktail before trawling for men over at Club Hollywood. This bar undoubtedly makes it seem cool to be a dir ty old man. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JE



Bars & Pubsnew

Bayern&Böhmen Keller D-2, Suur-Karja 18, www.bbkeller.ee, tel. (+372) 644 47 33, [email protected]. Ah, Bavaria - the rolling hills, the great beer, the lederhosen, sturdy women with overflowing and abundant cleavage, the mouth-watering sausages and succulent schnitzels... we apologise for getting your hopes up, but you won’t find any of that here. What you will find is a, somewhat, nicely decorated cellar pub which belongs to a rather large chain of Estonian pubs that litter the country and serve very average pub cuisine to locals who have gotten used to greasy unimaginative food that is often heated up in the microwave and served with French fries covered in French fry seasoning. Und das ist nicht wunderbar.QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00. JSW

Beer House C-2, Dunkri 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 22, [email protected], www.beerhouse.ee. So, how much German oompah music can you stand? Just teasing, they do play other beer-drinking favorites as well. This enormous, old-fashioned, Bavarian-style beer hall is something of a landmark in Tallinn. That said, the sprawling restaurant just off Town Hall Square is also Tallinn's only microbrewery, serving seven very decent in-house varieties. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PJEXS

Drink Bar & Grill D-3, Väike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 644 94 33, [email protected], www.drinkbaar.ee. It's evident there's a passion for beer culture here, not only its name ‘Drink' but overall, offering natural beers, a special 'house brew', unusual imports, comedy nights and even organic ciders. On a typical evening you'll find a lively bunch of patrons from all over the world; backpackers, travellers, locals and ex-pats all seem to congregate here. Whatever category you might fit into, you'll be sure to have an enjoyable experience, drinking or otherwise. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. J6IXW

Karoliina D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 05. This quirky little bar shaped like a tunnel and dug into the hill heading up to Toompea is excellent option for a secluded, quiet catch up with friends. Stretched cow skins and fake rose vines along the walls make an odd decorative combination. Try the Karoliina special - hot wine spiked with spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. J

Kompressor C-2, Rataskaevu 3, tel. (+372) 646 42 10, [email protected]. Students in particular seem to be drawn to this simple, unassuming bar with oversized tables and cheap drinks. Kompressor is also locally famous for its excellent pancakes, which are both cheap and filling. Kitchen closes at 22:00. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. JN

O'Malleys C-3, Viru 24, tel. (+372) 631 31 36, www.omalleys.ee. Though strewn with off-the-shelf Irish décor, O'Malleys' character seems mostly derived from its high-traf-fic location at the foot of Viru tänav. It's often packed by a transient, motley crowd of tourists and locals, many drawn in by the karaoke or sports events shown on the large-screen TV. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. Age restriction in the evenings 18+. J6UXW

Shooters C-2, Suur-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 600 22 20, [email protected], www.shooters.ee. As the name quite obvi-ously implies, Shooters is pretty much all about the booze. Add to that its location on one of the busier bar streets in Old Town and the ongoing special of 5 shots for 5€ and ding-ding-ding, we have got ourselves a winner - or a lot of losers depending on your perspective. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. JEW

Lots of pubs have weekend bands, but some places in particular are known as venues for live music. Café Amigo (see clubs) also pulls in some of Estonia's best acts.

Chicago 1933 C-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66, [email protected], www.chicago.ee. For some of the finest live blues this side of... well - Chicago, you can check out this swinging establishment just around the corner from the Viru Gates. The interior is all decked out in rich, dark wood and filled with large booths just like they have in the 'Windy City'. There's a strict 'no firearms allowed' policy though, so make sure you check your guns at the door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (14€). PJUEXSW

Clazz C-2, Vana turg 2, tel. (+372) 627 90 22, [email protected], www.clazz.ee. Not only is Clazz a great place to grab a bite all hours of the day or night, it has quickly turned into one of the most happening spots in town for live music - practically every night of the week! Expect a wide variety of local and international perform-ers, with styles ranging from jazz to Latin and everything in between. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. JUEW

Rock Cafe H-4, Tartu mnt 80d, 3rd floor, [email protected], www.rockcafe.ee. Built into an old factory building just past the city's bus station, this minimalist, two-story rock club is decidedly raw and industrial. Live acts - mainly rock but sometimes blues or funk - are booked every weekend, and the place boasts one of the best sound systems of any club in Estonia. Enter the courtyard, go right and up the stairs. Please note that you may find them open only when there are live acts scheduled. See website for details. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Admission 3.20 - 9.60€. LEX

Scotland Yard B-4, Mere pst 6e, tel. (+372) 653 51 90, [email protected], www.scotland-yard.ee. An absolute monster of a pub just outside Old Town, Scotland Yard earns praise for its quaint Victorian-library/police-department interior, which even includes toilets done up like electric chairs! Sadly, people have died of old age waiting to get a drink at the bar. Rock-type bands take to the stage on weekends, and despite its gargantuan size, the place often fills to the brim. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. Admission free. LEW

Von Krahl C-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. (+372) 626 90 90, [email protected], www.vonkrahl.ee. The real name is 'Von Krahli Baar' but regulars just call it 'Krahl.' This down-to-earth pub attached to a local theatre is where Tallinn's alternative bands come to play, and naturally the crowd tends towards students, punks and artsy types. Come by during the day for good, cheap pub food. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JEW

Live entertainment

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In recent years, wine bars have emerged as a sophis-ticated, mature alternative in this overly beer-centric town.

Gloria Veinikelder D-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. (+372) 640 68 04, [email protected], www.gloria.ee. The shop section is charming enough, but wind your way to the back rooms to find one of the Tallinn's most elegant places to enjoy a good Merlot. An expert is always on hand to help you choose from the ca. 2000 wines, cognacs and whiskeys available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. JIS

Musi C-2, Niguliste 6, tel. (+372) 644 31 00, [email protected], www.musi.ee. A popular little haunt. This one offers a romantic, old-fashioned front room and an equally cosy, but more modern and colourful back lounge. There's also a menu of affordable light snacks, mains and delicate desserts. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. JEW

Negossiant B-3, Lai 42, tel. (+372) 642 40 37, [email protected], www.negossiant.ee. Offering a huge selection of fine and rare wines, Negossiant, which doubles as a wine shop, is the perfect place for a romantic rendezvous. The knowledgeable staff will help you find the perfect wine to please your palette. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JSW

Wine bars Artsy/undergroundThe raw underbelly of Tallinn's music and art scene will be appealing only to more adventurous travellers.

Art Café E-2, Pärnu mnt 18, tel. (+372) 501 91 87, [email protected], www.artcafetallinn.ee. Kind of like Andy Warhol's Factory only with less drugs, less sex and it will cost you a little something to get in. Art café is all about the music, about the art and the general creative energy that drives these genres. Expect live music, installations, interesting folks and fairly inexpensive drinks. QOpen , Wed, Thu 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon-Tue, Sun. Admission 3.20€. Age restriction 18+. 6ENW

Depeche Mode C-2, Voorimehe 4, tel. (+372) 631 43 08, [email protected], www.depechemode.ee. Vilnius has its Frank Zappa statue, so it's only fair that Tallinn has this bar dedicated to Depeche Mode. For normal humans, this is just a friendly dive bar stuffed with fan memorabilia. But if you're a true DM fan, this is all you ever wanted, all you ever needed. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. Age restriction 18+. JEXW

Juuksur B-3, Vaimu 1, juuksur.edicypages.com. Juuksur is a stone cellar full of mismatched furniture and art nerds. The bar's name means 'hairdresser's', so naturally some of the chairs have old-style salon drying helmets hovering above them. Expect live bands on some nights and bottled beer. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. During special events admission 3.20 - 4.80€. Age restriction 21+. J6ENX

Kohvik Noorus C-2, Lai 10, tel. (+372) 600 53 73, [email protected], www.kohviknoorus.ee. We promised some of our friends that we wouldn't give this place too good a review as we always seem to ruin a good thing by letting too many tourists in on it - but friends don't pay our bills. Cheap drinks, free flowing shooters and gorgeous girls who might even show you their boobs for a couple of shots, abound at this locale. This place is awesome. There - we said it, and only feel mildly bad about it. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. J

Levist väljas B-3, Olevimägi 12, tel. (+372) 50 46 048, [email protected]. Tallinn's most grotty, seedy and all-around diviest dive bar. Students, Rastafarians and rockers alike congregate in this medieval cellar bar known for cheap drinks and uninhibited fun. Levist is usually people's last stop of the night after drinking heavily elsewhere. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. J6ENXW

Protest B-4, Roseni 9a, tel. (+372) 660 29 50, [email protected], www.protest.ee. What started out as a temporary locale in a building due for demolition, has turned into a hotbed of artful dodgers, where the cheap drinks flow and the music is loud and poignant. The posters advertising upcoming events are hand-drawn, the floors are often sticky and the atmosphere is über relaxed. The party hangs on until you do and if you've ended up having one too many, you'll be happy to know that there's a cheap hostel right next-door. Q From 14:00 until the party is over. Admission 0 - 6€. Age restriction 18+. J6LW

Woodstock E-2, Tatari 6, tel. (+372) 660 49 15, [email protected], www.woodstock.ee. Although Woodstock does not have a whole lot to do with the fabled summer of love held on American farm land back in 1969, the natives here are quite friendly and into 'the rock' as it were. It is after all a dive-bar where the atmosphere is relaxed and the food hearty and inexpensive. On weekend evenings, head downstairs to Rockstars for some live music or some head-banging-good rock presented by long-haired DJs dressed in the traditional black. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. E

St. Patrick's C/D-2, Suur-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 641 81 73, [email protected], www.patricks.ee. The name and décor may be Irish, but the crowds in each of Tallinn's four St. Patrick's pubs are just about as Estonian as they come. The one here on Suur-Karja is the most famous, cleverly built into a spacious, medieval hall. All offer decent, cheap food, and every fourth Saku Originaal is always free. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. 631 48 01. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 04:00. J6W

Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina B-3, Pikk 43, tel. (+372) 631 17 55, [email protected], www.texas.ee. Respectably busy (but rarely packed) on a given Friday night, Tallinn's Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock back a corona while tapping your foot to the twangy country/rock or old blues played in the stereo. Monster portions of fries will kill even the worst munchies. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. J6IESW

The Dubliner D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 644 46 94, [email protected], www.dubliner.ee. Part of a large Estonian chain of mediocre pubs, the most Irish thing about the Dubliner is the Guinness beer on tap and the picture of Bono on the wall. The microwaved garlic cheese bread, lacklustre service and soggy schnitzel left us feeling a little limp. Needless to say, we were rather unimpressed with our overall experience, but we hear that it can be a fun place for drinks and an inexpensive lunch - we'll let you decide for yourself. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (7€). JSW

Vana Wiru Pub C-3, Viru 11, tel. (+372) 669 15 10, [email protected], www.vanawiru.ee. A no-nonsense, classic pub with hints of an Old Tallinn theme. Vana Wiru's ideal, Viru street location that makes it a convenient stopping place for families to hunker down with their drinks. Check out the interesting jukebox selections. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. TJUGS

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Trendy lounge barsDress to impress and mingle with Tallinn's trendy club types or upwardly mobile elite.

Butterfly Lounge C-4, Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, tel. (+372) 56 90 37 03, [email protected], www.kokteilibaar.ee. When we were last here we got the distinct feeling that this lounge was geared primarily towards the ladies. Perhaps it was the pink-clad waiters, overall butter-fly motif, frou-frou menu items and more cock... tails than you can shake a stick at that made us feel this way, but if you want to spend the evening hanging out with a harem of beautiful dames this just might be the perfect place. Excellent service. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. Age restriction 18+. J6EW

Deja Vu C-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 645 00 44, [email protected], www.dejavu.ee. A super-stylish café/lounge bar with tiny tables and multiple video screens ...wait, haven't we been here before? This one, at least, has a more exclusive feel than its rivals, and a famously long tea menu. Pop by for the many special events, often involving champagne or lingerie, on Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00, Wed, Thu 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Age restriction 21+. JEW

Embassy Lounge D-2, Väike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 641 22 02, [email protected], www.embassy.ee. Coming here is like spending time in your best friend's living room, only it's equipped with an extensive cocktail list. The large, wall-mounted television playing a fireplace clip and the decorative wood logs stacked below might not actually keep you warm, but we assume the throw blankets draped

over the comfortable leather couches are available for that purpose. For a more lively experience, stop by later in the night rather than earlier. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. JW

Kaheksa (Lounge 8) D-2, Vana-Posti 8 (entrance from Müürivahe), tel. (+372) 631 48 12, [email protected], www.lounge8.ee. A sophisticated establishment, Kaheksa is popular with Tallinn's young, movers and shakers who can often be caught taking advantage of the lounge's boxing-ring layout to compare fashion notes. A modern and comfort-able interior gives it the right touch of class. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JUXSW

Lounge 24 H-3, Rävala pst 3 (in Radisson Blu Hotel), tel. (+372) 682 34 24, [email protected], www.madissoni.ee. A full 90m above street level, the suave lounge on the Radisson's 24th floor is the place to come for drinks with a view. At night, the stylish, little bar turns its lights down low, letting the cityscape fill the windows and creating a romantic mood, but when the weather is warm, the outdoor terrace is the place to be. Cocktails and light meals on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. T

Shimo C-2, Kuninga 1, tel. (+372) 648 42 61/(+372) 55 61 16 11, www.shimo.eu. This old haunt in new clothing has somehow lost that love and feeling - not a bad place overall but somewhat pointless in our eyes. The last couple of times we popped in, it was only us and them and even though we heard music, there was an awkward silence. We hope it changes because we certainly like the location. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J6IEW



If you're looking for food and drink after the pubs close, don't expect much of quality. Here are some options.

Caravan Bistroo H-3, Maakri 19/21, tel. (+372) 6108 445, [email protected], www.caravangrill.ee. Located just a few steps from the Radisson Blu hotel, this is one of the very few places that offers a place to grab a seat and a nice warm bite at any hour of the night. They offer up a wide selection of pizzas, sandwiches and a few healthy selections too. Q Open 24hrs. (3.85€).

Istanbul Café D-4, Estonia pst 7, tel. (372) 55 59 79 15, [email protected], www.cafeistanbul.ee. Dying for some döners done right? This kebab place is actually owned by real Turks who as it turns out also prepare the food. Here you can find mouth watering pitas stuffed with loads of meat and veggies basted in several thick sauces. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. S

Potato Planet C-2, Suur-Karja 11, tel. (+372) 55 51 55 37, [email protected], www.potato.ee. Stum-bling out of a club at 3am, you might happen upon this eatery whose main claim to fame is its massive baked potatoes embellished with your choice of hot or cold toppings. Combos include a baked potato, Panini style sandwich and a beverage, but we recommend you stick to the potato, which should be more than enough to fill you. QOpen 24hrs. (5.10€). JS

Taco Express D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 682 55 08, [email protected], www.tacoexpress.ee. This little 'tacos'n'more' joint offers up some pretty spicy offerings alongside a few decent pizzas and is altogether centrally located enough that your newly acquired jello-legs will probably even manage to bring you here from most of the establishments offering up liquid courage in the area. QOpen 07:30 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. (3.20€). JSW

Midnight munchies

ClubsTallinn has quite a bit to offer on the club-scene. From tacky to cutting edge, you'll certainly find something that fits your needs. The regular admittance age to most clubs is 18+, exceptions are listed at the end of our review.

Astoria Palace D-2, Vabaduse väljak 5, tel. (+372) 642 20 00, [email protected], www.astoria.ee. A theatrical 1930s look and a cigar room are the main features of this event-packed little club that's aimed at an older, upscale crowd. Although not completely geared towards Russians, it certainly has gained notoriety for attracting a fair number of our Slavic friends, and hey, they do know how to party. We had a blast the last time we were here and we even discovered just how short a short skirt can get... but we're not complain-ing. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 4.80 - 6.40€. Age restriction 21+. LEX

Balou D-2, Rüütli 18, tel. (+372) 53 36 56 55/(+372) 56 20 34 04, [email protected], www.balou.ee. While traversing the cobblestones of Old Town sometimes you end up stumbling upon, or down into, as is the case with this cavernous cellar club, something just a little different. The oasis of cheap thrills that is Balou, might not be as glitzy or glamorous as some of its contemporaries but the crowd is sparkling and the beats spun here are cutting edge and highly danceable. Stay tuned for their café to open in the beautiful medieval courtyard during the warmer months. QOpen , Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Wed, Sun. Admission 3.20 - 6.40€. J

BonBon B-4, Mere pst 6e, tel. (+372) 661 60 80, [email protected], www.bonbon.ee. Often packed to the gills, the trendy BonBon is where you're most likely to find Tallinn's beautiful set. It's arguably the town's most exclusive club, thanks to a higher than average ticket price and a clubcard-holders-only regime at the door when it's crowded. The establishment sports a classically decadent look, with huge chandeliers and a portrait of Bacchus watching over the dance floor. Italians seem to like it, if that tells you anything. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 8€. Age restriction 21+. LXW

Café Amigo C-4, Viru väljak 4, (Sokos Hotel Viru), tel. (+372) 680 93 80, [email protected], www.amigo.ee. Surprisingly hip and happening for a hotel club, Amigo at-tracts a good mix of Finnish tourists and local party animals who tend to be slightly older than the typical club monkeys. The big draw here are the live rock and blues bands - the country's best-loved names - that play here almost nightly. Before bands come one, DJs spin all your favorite pop dance hits from the 70s-90s, and always manage to fill the floor with a cross-generational crowd. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission 4.80€, Fri-Sat 8€. Age restriction 21+. JULEXW

CatHouse C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (in Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 14 30, [email protected], www.cathouse.ee. Billed as the sexiest club in Tallinn, it just might be that. They have some pretty sexy events, which happen fairly regularly, including Playboy parties, topless DJs and the occasional sex show. The crowd is primarily Russian, but the Slavs often have a leg up on the Estonians in terms of the 'fun factor'. We had an all right time when we were last there, but for some reason couldn't keep our eyes off of the DJ - perhaps it had something to do with the breasts. QOpen , Wed, Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Tue, Sun. Admission 0 - 10€. LXW

Club 360º D-3, Müürivahe 22, tel. (+372) 641 16 07, [email protected], www.club360.ee. Beyond the gum-chewing doorman lies this fairly recent addition to the Old Town club scene - a tiny, basement club that seems to pull in gaggles of Finnish nerd girls plus a few cool trendoids who are wondering how the hell they ended up here. The music is pop and the decor is standard modern. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thurs, Sun. Admission 4.80€. JX

Club Privé D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 80, [email protected], www.clubprive.ee. Along with BonBon, the smaller Privé is considered one of Tallinn's two trendiest club destinations. Heading here is a bit of a gamble though. If you hit it on the right night, it can be a very cool scene where you'll hear the region's best DJs, but on the wrong night it's just another club full of fog and

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foreigners - to avoid disappointment make sure to check the web-site for list of events and the night's musical orientation. QOpen , Thu 23:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon-Wed, Sun. Admission 7 - 14€. Age restriction 20+. JEX

Hollywood D-2, Vana-Posti 8, [email protected], www.clubhol-lywood.ee. If there's one club in Tallinn that's guaranteed to be jumping, it's Hollywood, the mixing bowl for tourists and Tallinn's young (repeat, young) party crowd. The dance floor features three large overhead video screens and raised platforms where scantily-clad go-go dancers jiggle to the beat. Wednesday night is ladies night - free entrance for girls, hence a wall-to-wall meat market for the lads. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission 4.5 - 7€. LEX

Korter B-4, Roseni 9, tel. (+372) 509 43 39, [email protected], www.krtr.ee. There's not a whole lot that sets Korter apart from other clubs, but as far as the music goes, you'll be treated to something other than the typical club bunny, top 40, mainstream noise that's so prevalent at the majority of nightspots. The sound system is pretty decent, the bass is pretty bumpin' and at least if you go late enough in the night the Estonians who frequent it will be shakin' it the best they know how. Expect sparse furnishings, a whack of stencilled-on flies and urban modernism. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 4.80 - 8€. X

Panoraam G-3, Ahtri 10, tel. (+372) 611 61 44, [email protected], www.clubpanoraam.ee. Panoraam is a two story disco a short walk from Old Town that places a heavy emphasis on its schedule of Estonian pop acts. When a good concert is on, it can draw hundreds of teenagers and a few lost and drooling easyJet travellers. Otherwise it's about as exciting as a hotel lobby in Oslo. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 7-8€. ULEXW

Parlament H-3, Tartu mnt 17, tel. (+372) 666 29 00, [email protected], www.clubparla-ment.ee. It's like a slice of a Roman coliseum, meaning there's three levels from which you can watch bleached nineteen-year-olds in tight jeans jiggling around on the sticky dance floor. They'd look older if they weren't chewing gum. Overall, this is an enormous and popular club that frequently hosts bands and events. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 7 - 8€. ULEXW

Vabank D-2, Harju 13, tel. (+372) 660 52 99, [email protected], www.vabank.ee. The beauti ful people, the beautiful people. The answer to the question "What is Vabank?" can be summed up fairly easily. Vabank is a large nightclub at the edge of Old Town, housed in what is a former bank where, currently, Tallinn's beautiful people hang out listening to rather unimaganitive house music and sipping on pricey cocktails. If that is your idea of a good time, so be it. A couple of cool features of note though, the VIP bedrooms off to either side of the dance floor and the private room downstairs in the former vault. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 7.99€. From 23:00 - 23:30, ladies free. J

Venus C-4, Vana-Viru 14, tel. (+372) 551 99 99, [email protected], www.venusclub.ee. Rows of classical cherub statues added to an Arabian dessert motif may give the impression of a palace decorator gone mad, but the overriding mood at Venus is of serious partying and flirting by a mixed foreign and Estonian crowd. The last time we popped in it was just around midnight and Venus was already bumping and grinding to full capacity - let's just say that we'll certainly be back. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Admission 1.60 - 6.40€. Age restriction 21+. JXW


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Adult entertainmentDon't expect to partake from afar. If they perform on stage at all, dancers in Tallinn's striptease clubs typically visit the tables, get-ting up close and personal to collect tips, usually 1.60 - 6.40€. While between performances on the stage, other dancers will try to coax you into buying an expensive ‘ladies' cocktail', which is essentially a huge tip for sitting with you and making dull small talk. Gentlemen's clubs have recently been popping up everywhere in Old Town, here we have listed just a few.

Alcatraz Club A-4, Sadama 6/8, tel. (+372) 661 48 88, [email protected], www.alcatrazclub.ee. Although the name might not be the most original, the concept, at least as far as gentlemen's clubs go, is unique. Jail cages replace the traditional stripper pole, the space is larger than most and the dancers take turns wearing topless jailbird outfits to wait on the tables. The entrance fee is a little high, however, it does include a welcome drink. The booze is a reasonable price and from what we could see, the girls are certainly worth ‘spending' some time with. QOpen 12:00 - 07:00. Admission 19.15€. X

Burlesque Club C-3, Viru 18, tel. (+372) 642 00 42, [email protected], www.burlesqueclub.ee. Expensive, not enough exposed flesh unless you pay a hefty sum for an extended private dance and the drink prices are outrageous. We like the concept - burlesque outfits and overall Parisian motif - but it's just too much for too little and the dances that we saw were quite uninspired to say the least. If you have money to burn and something against seeing nipples, this could be the place for you. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 9.60€. JX

Lady's Shadow C-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 631 49 00/(+372) 56 69 57 71, [email protected], www.ladyshadow.ee. Probably one of the most beautifully designed

adult entertainment spots in Tallinn, Lady's Shadow is brilliantly decorated in an 'Arabian Nights' motif and certainly reminds one of a stylish harem. The rest of the details are pretty much the same as the majority of these kind of clubs in the city - if you're lucky though, you'll meet a girl who is a smart business woman and will offer to do a floor show even if there aren't any scheduled. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. JX

new

Sinferno C-3, Viru 24, 2nd floor, tel. (+372) 644 05 38, [email protected], www.infernoclub.ee. Owned by a Scottish expat and attached, for the moment, to the nightclub Inferno - this is by far the best strip club experience we’ve had in Tallinn - but what sets it apart you ask? Well, several things. The admission is FREE, the drinks are reason-ably priced, the dances are also relatively inexpensive and the girls are top-notch. In fact, the best pole-dancing show we’ve ever witnessed in Estonia happened here. There’s also a water stage in the middle of the floor, if you want to shell out the 40€ - and from what we hear it’s well worth it. They haven’t been open too long, but we expect it to get even bet-ter with age. Admission free. Happy Hour 21:00-22:00 every night. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue. JX

X Club D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 75/(+372) 631 05 74, fax (+372) 631 05 74, [email protected], www.xclub.ee. One of the more sophisticated clubs of this type in Tallinn, X Club is favoured by business types and high-end bachelor partiers. In addition to the main show room, an Oriental Room dazzles clients with belly-dancing and water-pipes. Even the medieval-style torture booth has nice décor. Friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere. A good place for group events like stag nights or political conventions. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Admission 12.80€. Age restriction 18+. JU

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62 What to see What to see

Toompea HillClimb Pikk jalg and you’ll find yourself on Castle Square (Lossi plats), smack-dab between the seat of the Estonian government at Toompea Castle and the 19th-century symbol of the Tsar’s power in Estonia, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. You are standing at the birthplace of Tallinn.

Viewing platforms (C-1/2) The Kohtuotsa and Patkuli viewing platforms are usually the first place that tourists want to see when they visit Tallinn. From here, sweeping views of the town, its red-tiled roofs,

its towers, its walls and all of its charm open up. Get your camera ready.

Toompea Castle D-1, Lossi plats 1. Built on the spot where the ancient Estonians’ wooden fortress stood before the 1219 Danish invasion, Tallinn’s castle served for seven centuries as the seat of power for the nation’s foreign mas-ters. Now it houses the Riigikogu, Estonia’s parliament. On one corner of the castle you can see Pikk Hermann tower with the blue, black and white tricolour flag waving above it. It’s com-monly recognised that whoever’s flag flies on top of this tower is the ruler of Estonia. The pink section you see in front is

actually a baroque structure added in the 18th Century. For a more castle-like view of this building, head behind it, down the opposite side of the hill. Q Admission only with a guided tour, Mon-Fri from 10:00 - 16:00. Call (+372) 631 63 45 for details

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral C/D-1, Lossi plats 10, tel./fax (+372) 644 34 84, [email protected], www.hot.ee/nsobor. Toompea’s dominat-ing landmark is the Russian Orthodox cathedral named for the duke who at-tacked southeastern Estonia and Pskov in the early 13th century. Tsar Alexander III ordered the cathedral designed in 1894 by St. Petersburg master Mikhail

Preobrazhensky and it was completed in 1900. According to legend, the cathedral was built on the grave of Estonian hero Kalev and has suffered structurally as a result. Be sure to duck inside for a glimpse of its fantastic interior. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Dome Church (Toomkirik) C-1, Toomkooli 6, tel. (+372) 644 41 40, [email protected], www.eelk.ee/tallinna.toom. Also called St. Mary's Church, what might be the oldest church in Estonia was founded in 1219 by the first wave of Danish forces. The Gothic exterior dates to the 14th century, but the interior was rebuil t after the 1684 fire. The Baroque pulpit (1686) and organ loft (1780) are worth a look. As you enter be sure to step on the tomb of Otto Johann Thuve, who asked that his grave be placed in this humbling location. Please be considerate and visit after the Sunday service. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00 and in Latvian every third Sunday of the month at 13:00. Organ music Sat 12:00. Admission free.

Kiek in de Kök (Peep into the Kitchen) D-1/2, Komandandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Built 1475 - 1481, this 45m, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV's cannonballs embedded in its walls to prove it. Medieval soldiers joked that from its top, they could see right into the kitchens

of the houses below - hence the odd name. The tower now operates as a museum. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 4.47€. Joint ticket with Bastion Tunnels 8.31€.

The Old TownDating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town.

Tallinn is a tourist’s dream. Just about all of the important sights, as well as the best restaurants, bars and cafés, are neatly packaged within the medieval walls of Old Town.

Tallinn Card www.tallinncard.ee. If you're trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn, consider picking up the city tourist office's discount card, the Tallinn Card, good for 6hrs (12€), 24hrs (24€), 48hrs (28€), or 72hrs (32€). For kids 6 - 14, the price is reduced by 50%. Cardholders get a number of free city tours, free admission to all the city's museums, unlimited use of public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and freebies, like chocolate-covered marzipan and admission to Club Hollywood. A very well written, fat booklet that comes with the card lists all the offers. There's also a six-hour version of the card (no sightseeing tour included) designed for cruise ship pas-sengers and anyone else blowing through town. It costs 12€. The card is sold in major hotels, at the Estravel office in the airport, at the harbour info desk, and at the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre (Kullassepa 4). For more details, consult the website at www.tallinncard.ee.

The Tallinn Card

View from Schnelli park (C-1)

What to see


63What to see

Dominican Monastery (Dominiiklaste klooster) C-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 644 46 06/(+372) 515 54 89, [email protected], www.kloostri.ee. One of Tallinn's oldest existing buildings is this monastery founded in 1246. The part of the monastery administered by the museum includes the courtyard and surrounding passageways, where fascinating 15th- and 16th-century stone carvings are on display. To see the inner rooms, visit the Claustrum, listed next. Inner rooms only open from May 01 through September, or upon a prearranged booking.

Dominican Monastery Claustrum C-3, Müürivahe 33, tel. (+372) 511 25 36, [email protected], www.mauritanum.edu.ee. Here you'll find the monastery's inner chambers such as the monk's dormitory, priory, library, etc. One of the most interesting spots may be the downstairs room that houses the 'energy pillar' purportedly the source of a mysterious power. Open from May 15th through September, other times only for prearranged group bookings. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3.20€.

Niguliste Church - Museum C-2, Nig-uliste 3, tel. (+372) 631 43 30/(+372) 644 99 03 tours, [email protected], www.ekm.ee. Tallinn's most famous work of art, a wall-sized fragment of Bernt Notke's spooky, 15th-century masterpiece Dance Macabre, has its home in this 13th-century Gothic church-turned art museum. Destroyed during World War II and rebuilt during Soviet times, the church now houses a fascinating collection of medieval religious

art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries, a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers, and a 'silver chamber.' The church is also known for its acoustics - organ concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.20€. J

St. Catherine's Passage (Kata-rina Käik) C-3. One of the prettiest little walkways in all of Old Town, the medieval St. Catherine's passage connects Vene and Müürivahe streets. On the northern portion of the passage you can find what's left of St. Catherine's Church (hence the passage name) and various large, ancient tombstones that used to line the inside of the sanctuary. On the southern portion of the passage, you'll find numerous artisan workshops, where you'll even get see them hard at work creating new items for you to buy. At any rate, we're sure you'll find Katarina Käik a pretty nice hike.

St. Olaf's Church (Oleviste Kirik) B-3, Lai 50, tel. (+372) 641 22 41, [email protected], www.oleviste.ee. St. Olaf's 124m spire is a Tallinn landmark, and was the tallest building in Europe between 1549 and 1625. An old legend claims that the church was built to attract more merchant ships to the town by a mysterious craftsman who promised to work for free if the townspeople discovered his name (Olev). In reality, the church took its name from the canonised Norwegian king, Olav Havaldsson. The first mention of the church dates to 1267, but the interior dates to 1840 and reflects that era's Historicist bent. Closed, except during services, from October through April. Q Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, 12:00, Thurs 18:30 (prayer). English service Sun 17:00. Admission free. J

Lower TownLower Town, the larger part of medieval Tallinn (or Reval as it was called back then), became a member of the Hanseatic League at the end of the 13th century. Goods from around the world came in through the port and were traded on the market on Town Hall Square. Reval operated autonomously from the rest of the Estonian territories right up until Tsarist Russian times. As in the rest of the country, the real movers and shakers in Reval society were the Baltic Germans, with Ethnic Estonians for most part second-class citizens. However, Esto-nian peasants from surrounding areas often escaped to the city, where they could eventually be considered free.

Town Hall Square (Raekoja Plats) C/D-2. As a medieval mar-ket and a modern meeting place, Town Hall Square has been the heart of city life for eight centuries. With the Town Hall at your back, you

can survey some of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in Tallinn. Hunt for a circular stone in the centre of the square marked with a compass rose, you can see all five towers from there.

Town Hall (Raekoda) D-2, Raekoja plats 1, tel. (+372) 645 79 00, [email protected], veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda. The jewel in the crown of Old Town is unquestionably the Town Hall, the centre of civic rule from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. Though a previous town hall stood here at least as far back as 1322, the imposing Gothic building of today dates to 1404. Old Thomas, the weather vane who symbolises Tallinn, has been keeping watch since 1530.This time of year you need to call ahead to arrange for a glimpse of the vaulted halls and carved friezes of the historic interior. Q Admission 3€. J

Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) C-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 631 48 60, [email protected]. One of the oldest continuously running pharmacies in Europe is on Town Hall Square. No one knows exactly when it opened, but records show that the Raeapteek was already on its third owner in 1422. In Medieval times patients could buy mummy juice and burnt bees for treatment,

and healthy folks could even drop in for a glass of spiced wine. Keeping up with the times, the pharmacy sells the usual aspirin and condoms, but part of the shop is also a museum, displaying old medical instruments and other curiosities. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. J

Holy Spirit Church (Püha Vaimu kirik) C-2/3, Püh-avaimu 2, tel. (+372) 644 14 87/(+372) 646 44 30, [email protected], www.eelk.ee/tallinna.puhavaimu. This awe-inspiring, 13th-century church adjacent Town Hall Square sports an impressive Baroque tower as well as an ornate, outdoor clock that's said to be one of the most photographed objects in Tallinn. The real treasure however is the intricate, wood-carved interior, which includes Baroque pews and a Renaissance pulpit (the oldest in Tallinn). Founded by the Order of the Holy Spirit, the church was always close to the people - It was the most active in providing alms to the sick and poor, and it was here that the first sermons were given in Estonian after the Reformation. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Ser-vices in Estonian Sun 10:00, in English 15:00 and in sign language second and fourth Sunday of the month at 12:00. Classical music hour Mon 18:00. Admission 1€.



Sightseeing toursAudioguide Old Town Tour tel. (+372) 655 66 33, [email protected], www.audioguide.ee. On this self-guided tour, a specialised player provides customised narration (and sound effects!) on the history and architec-ture of key Old Town sights. Follow the map (provided) and set your own pace. There are also tours available for the Estonian Open Air Museum and the Tallinn City Museum. Q Available for rent at Tallinn Tourist Information Centre for 12.75€ and at some large hotels. Free with Tallinn Card at the Information Centre.

City Bike Tours B-3, Uus 33, tel. (+372) 511 18 19, [email protected], www.citybike.ee. Now more than just bikes, Citybike offers tours on wheels and by foot. There are tours available for pretty much any interesting sight in and around the city. These include excursions of Old Town,

including a visit to the tunnels, nature tours and trips to Pirita and Kadriorg. In addition to the daily 'Welcome Tours' of Tallinn, customised tours are also available. Tours leave from the City Bike office in Old Town, Uus 33. Hotel pick-up by arrangement. Ask about the cool and weird 'Conference Bike', it's an experience the whole gang can enjoy. Reserva-tions for all bikes and tours are a must during the summer. Rental of hand-held GPS devices are also an option. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. 16€ covers rental, tour and a refreshing drink. Free with Tallinn Card. J

Euroaudioguide [email protected], www.euroaudioguide.com. This audio guide allows the user to take themselves on a tour at their leisure, using an iPod, a map and their own two feet. The narration provides loads of interesting facts and exciting tales from Tallinn's past and it's available at many major hotels throughout the city and the Tourist information centre (see Basics section) Rent is 19.17€ for 24hrs, 21.73€ for 48hrs or free for 24hrs with the purchase of a Tallinn Card.

Hop-On Hop-Off City Tour C-4, Mere pst. in front of the souvenir market, tel. (+372) 627 90 80/(+372) 53 055 055, [email protected], www.citytour.ee. This tour uses bright red, London-style double-decker buses to take tourists on several different routes through Tallinn. There's a Red Line covering the town centre and Kadriorg, a Green Line connecting to Pirita, the TV Tower and the Botanic gardens, and a Blue Line that takes you to the Estonian Open Air Museum. Information for each location is provided in ten languages by Audioguide (see above), and riders can hop on and off at any stop. Q One-day ticket 16€; two-day ticket 20€, three-day ticket 23€. Free with 24h, 48h and 72h Tallinn Card.

What to see


65What to see

ChurchesTallinn's most famous churches have already been listed in the Old Town pages, but here are several more churches for readers with a special interest.

Church of Our Lady of Kazan (Kaasani Juma-laema Sündimise kirik) H-3, Liivalaia 38, tel. (+372) 660 79 90. Built in 1721, this small, cross-shaped Russian Orthodox church is the oldest wooden structure in Tallinn. Extensive repairs in the 19th century gave the building a Classicist facade and brought a Classicist feel to the interior. Plaques commemorate the casualties of the Napoleonic wars and the Russo-Japanese War. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00.

Church of the Transfiguration of Our Lord (Is-sanda Muutmise Kirik) B-2, Suur-Kloostri 14-1, tel. (+372) 646 40 03. Originally belonging to St. Michael's Convent of the Cistercian Order (located next door and now housing the Gustavus Adolphus School), the church was given to an Orthodox congregation in 1716. The church has retained its original form, save the addition of a Baroque spire in 1776 and exterior renovations in the early 1800s. The carved-wood iconostasis is one of the most impressive of its kind. Q Services in Estonian Sun 10:00. J

St Charles' Church (Kaarli Kirik) E-1, Toom-puiestee 4, tel. (+372) 611 91 00/(+372) 611 91 01, fax (+372) 631 13 63, [email protected], www.eelk.ee/tallinna.kaarli. Buil t in pseudo-Romanesque style on the site of a 17th-century wooden church, Kaarli is an excellent example of the use of one of Estonia's greatest resources - limestone. In all, construction took 20 years (1862 - 1882), but painter Johann Köler completed Estonia's largest mural here, Come to Me, in just ten days. The church is also home to Estonia's largest church organ. Q Services in Estonian Sun 10:00 and Mon 13:00. Classical music hour on Tue 17:00.

St. John's Church (Jaani kirik) D-2, Vabaduse väljak 1, tel. (+372) 644 62 06, [email protected], www.eelk.ee/tallinna.jaani/. This bright yellow landmark is one of two churches begun in 1862, testifying to Tallinn's population boom at that time. Built for a local congregation, St. John's boasts the first bell inscribed

in Estonian. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, service with music each Wed 13:30.

St. Michael's Swedish Lutheran Church (Rootsi-Mihkli Kirik) D-2, Rüütli 9, tel. (+372) 644 19 38, [email protected], www.stmikael.ee. Originally built as a hospital in the 16th century, St. Michael's also housed a spinning factory where 'fallen women' worked. Then it was transformed into a church for local Swedes. After serving as a weightlifting room under the Soviets, the church was returned in 1993 to the Swedish congregation, whose efforts to fund-raise for renovation of the church have paid off. Book in advance for museum tour. Q The office is open after the service and Mon - Thu 9:00 - 17:00, on Fri 9:00 - 15:00. Services in Swedish every Sunday 12:00 and in Finnish every Sunday 10:00. In German every 2nd and 4th Sunday.

St. Nicholas' Orthodox Church (Püha Nikolai Imetegija kirik) B-3, Vene 24, tel. (+372) 644 19 45. The present Classical building dates to the 1820s, but a Russian Orthodox church stood here in the early 1400s. The young church houses many objects of artistic value predating it, including 16th-century icons. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Services in Russian Fri 17:00, Sat 10:00, 17:00, Sun 10:00.

St. Peter and Paul Roman Catholic Church (Rooma Katoliku Kirik) C-3, Vene 18, tel. (+372) 644 63 67, [email protected], www.katoliku.ee. A relative newcomer as far as Tallinn's houses of worship go, this pseudo-Gothic church was built in on the former refectory of the Dominican Monastery from 1841 - 1844. Drop by to look at the interior. If the door is locked, go to the office and knock. QOpen 17:00 - 19:00, Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 10:00. Services in Estonian Mon - Fri 08:00, Mon - Wed & Fri 18:00, Sun 11:30; in Russian Sun 18:00; in Latin Sat 08:00; in Polish Thu 18:00, Sun 10:00; in English Sat 18:00.

Before you complain about the chalky taste of Tallinn’s tap water, you might want to stop to consider what the town’s Medieval residents had to put up with. This wheel well on the corner of Rataskaevu and Dunkri in the Old Town was once one of the main sources of water for the Tallinn. Ac-cording to legend, some of the locals got it into their heads that an evil water spirit lived in the well and threatened to make all the town’s wells run dry if it wasn’t given regular animal sacrifices. To keep the spirit happy, some cattle and sheep carcasses were thrown down the well, but the main victims were stray cats, who were rounded up and tossed, sometimes live, down the shaft. This practice was so common that the locals started calling this watering hole ‘Cat’s Well.’ In a sense, the sacrifices worked - the town’s wells never ran dry. But the practice of throwing animals down the well didn’t do much for the water quality, and the Cat’s Well had fallen into disuse by the mid 19th century. Rest assured that nowadays Tallinn’s water is much safer to drink, and the cats of Old Town no longer live in fear.

Cats’ WellThe Tallinn Free Tour C-2, Vana-Posti 2, tel. (+372) 55 54 21 11, [email protected], www.tallinnfreetour.com. During the colder months, the Traveller Information office organises ‘The Tallinn Free Tour'. Conducted by local youth, this walking tour includes exciting ghost stories, fun facts and history info all free of charge! They also offer a bunch of excellent and inexpensive tours that run regularly during the summer months but can also be booked in advance during the off-season. See www.traveller.ee for details. Q Tour lasts 2 hours and meets from Wed-Sat in front of the official Tourist Information office at Niguliste 2. Tour is of course, free of charge.

Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour E-2, Roosikrantsi 19, Reisiekspert, tel. (+372) 610 86 16, [email protected], www.travel2baltics.com/default.asp/ac/reisiinfot/id/177. The classic general tour of Tallinn, the Official Sightseeing Tour, is made up of two parts: a bus tour of the city that covers downtown and some of the more interesting outer areas, and then a walking tour of Old Town. The whole affair takes 2.5 hours. Two to three tours daily; see website for schedule. Pick-up at major hotels. Q The tour costs 20€. Free with Tallinn Card.



The Museum of Occupation and of the Fight for Freedom (Okupatsioonide Muuseum) D/E-1, Toompea 8, tel. (+372) 668 02 50, [email protected], www.okupatsioon.ee. In the period from 1940 to 1991, Estonia was occupied briefly by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half decades by the USSR. The history of this difficult period comes to life in this modern museum on the edge of Old Town. High-tech audio-visual displays and art installations add life to the museum's artefacts and texts. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 1.92€.

Occupation history

Speciality museums Bank of Estonia Museum (Eesti Panga muuseum) D-3, Estonia pst 13, tel. (+372) 668 07 60, [email protected], www.eestipank.info. The 20th Century was a turbulent one for Estonia's currencies. This modern museum displays every kind of banknote used here from Tsarist roubles to German occupation tender, and outlines the history of Estonia's national bank itself, founded in 1919. For anyone who's already forgotten what they look like, those now-extinct Euroland currencies are also showcased. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission free.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Meremuuseum) A-3, Fat Margaret Tower, Pikk 70, tel. (+372) 641 14 08/(+372) 641 14 10, fax (+372) 641 14 14, [email protected], www.meremuuseum.ee. Centuries of seafaring history, including models, charts and other arti-facts, are displayed in this multi-storied museum housed in the 16th-century Fat Margaret cannon tower. Don't miss the antique diving equipment or the view from the roof. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.20€.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Loodusmuu-seum) B-2, Lai 29a, tel. (+372) 641 17 39, [email protected], www.loodusmuuseum.ee. All your favourite taxidermied Estonian animals (not to mention dried plants and mollusks) are on display in this three-storey museum designed to introduce nature to youngsters. Don't miss the museum's mascot, the biggest fish ever caught in the Baltics. Wherever you don't see English-language placards, look for printed information sheets floating around. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2€, fam-ily ticket 4€. J

Kalev Marzipan Room C-2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 41 92. Estonia's famous candy factory operates a tiny museum in the Old Town building where the company started back in the 19th century. There isn't too much text, but visitors can get a look at the intricate, hand-painted

History museums Estonian History Museum - Maarjamäe Palace (Maarjamäe Loss) F-6, Pirita tee 56, tel. (+372) 622 86 10, fax (+372) 644 34 46, [email protected], www.eam.ee. The branch of the Estonian History Museum that covers the 19th and 20th centuries makes its home in this landmark house on the road to Pirita. Originally a summer house, this pseudo-Gothic 'palace' housed the Dutch consul-ate, a posh hotel, future pilots and the Soviet army, before being given to the History Museum in 1975. Excellent exhibitions on the War for Independence and the first Estonian Republic. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3€.

Estonian War Museum (General Laidoner Museum) Mõisa tee 1, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 621 74 10, [email protected], www.esm.ee. Housed in Viimsi Manor, the former home of general Johan Laidoner who was perhaps the most influential war hero in Estonian history, the Estonian War Museum is a great place to start if you’d like to learn more about this country’s history. Estonia has had troops fighting on its soil from Denmark, Sweden, Germany, Poland, Russia and has even witnessed Viking battles. Inside you’ll find all sorts of displays and info on the various wars Estonia has been involved in, as well as exhibits on the role the country’s armed forces currently play in the world of warfare. Getting there: Take bus nr.1A to Viimsi from the Viru Centre’s underground bus terminal (C-4) and get off at “Viimsi vallamaja” stop (should be about a 25min ride). Walk back to the main road and turn right, in another 50m and it will be the large pink building on your left. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

Kiek in de Kök (Peep into the Kitchen) D-1/2, Kom-andandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Now fully renovated, this tower/museum is an excellent introduction to the history of Tallinn's defences. Built 1475 - 1481, the 45m, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV's cannonballs embedded in its walls. The top floor houses a café with some excellent views. And where did the tower get its name? Check out the voyeur's view from the windows for yourself as you climb upward. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 4.47€. Joint ticket with the Bastion Tunnels 8.31€.

Tallinn City Museum (Linnamuuseum) C-3, Vene 17, tel. (+372) 615 51 80, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum.ee/linnamuuseum. By far, the most modern and complete introduction to Tallinn. Appropriately built into a 14th-century merchant house, the City Museum houses elaborate displays, with English captions, demonstrating various aspects of Tallinn life through the ages. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 3.20€.

L Marks the Spot. Look for two long cobblestones that make the letter ‘L’ in the corner of Town Hall Square nearest the Raeapteek. This spot marks one of the more bizarre tales from Tallinn’s medieval history. In the late 1600s, so the story goes, a priest named Panicke walked into an inn and or-dered an omelette. What he got was ‘hard as the sole of a shoe,’ so he sent it back. The next two that the waitress brought were even worse, and after an argument, the priest decided to make his point by killing the waitress with an axe. For this unusually violent crime, the priest was swiftly hauled out to the square and beheaded, and the spot was marked for the convenience of future tourguides.

The capital’s curiosities

What to see


67What to see

D-1/2, Komandandi 2 (Kiek in de Kök), tel. (+372) 644 66 86, [email protected], www.linnamuu-seum.ee/kok. Legends, secrets and underground passages, the tunnels aren't just for rats any more, now you can tour them, too! Built in the 17th-century by the Swedes to help protect the city, these tunnels are a fas-cinating relic of times past. Now having completed phase two of the renovations, visitors can ride the underground train into Tallinn's future or take a walk into the depths of the city's past. Watch your head though some of the passage ways can be a little 'hard' on you. Tours (by arrangement) run from 10:00 - 16:30, every day except Monday. For booking, contact Kiek in de Kök tel. (+372) 644 66 86. Admission 5.75€, children 3.20€. Joint ticket with the Kiek in de Kök 8.31€. Bring warm clothing as the tunnel temperatures are 6 to 8 degrees.

Tunnels under Tallinnmarzipan creations. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission free.

Museum of Estonian Photography (Fotomuuseum) C-2, City Prison, Raekoja 4/6, tel. (+372) 644 87 67, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum.ee/foto-muuseum/. Back in the 14th century this building behind the Town Hall served as the town prison (as a visit to the cellar will show). Now it houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian photography, mainly devoted to the 1840 - 1940 period. Drop in to peruse the old Tallinn photos, recreated studio and antique cameras on display. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admis-sion 1.92€. J

Theatre & Music Museum (Teatri- ja muusikamuu-seum) D-2, Müürivahe 12, tel. (+372) 644 64 07/(+372) 644 21 32, [email protected], www.tmm.ee. Housed in the medieval Assawe tower, the museum hosts a weird and won-derful collection of musical devices, from ancient horns to old clavicords. Splurge another 7€ to get them to crank up a the curious mechanical music machines. Theatre is covered very minimally and text is mostly in Estonian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Archives open Tue-Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sat - Sun. Admission 3€. English language tour available for 13€.

The Marzipan Museum C-3, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 06 26. The room of this little shop/museum has a few more creations than the Kalev Marzipan Room, but is not quite steeped in as much history. Visitors do however get the chance to build their own marzipan figurines and even receive a giftbox to house the sweet creation. The marzipan sculpturing experience will set you back 9.60€. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free. J



Doll Museum (Lastemuuseum) A-1, Kotzebue 16, tel. (+372) 641 34 91, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum.ee/lastemuuseum. Just as the name implies, this museum is a treasure trove of dolls, antique and modern. Small and geared toward kids, the museum proudly presents its permanent exhibition, Old Beloved Toys. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 1.92€.

Estonian Children's Literature Centre A-3, Pikk 73, tel. (+372) 646 64 88, [email protected], www.eltk.ee. This literature centre predominately features children's books in the Estonian language, but also has a good selection of books in other languages as well. The centre also has a few permanent and special exhibitions, including the Edgar Valter gallery, which is dedicated to the loved children's author and illustrator. Many of the displays are interesting for young and old alike, no matter what your Estonian language skills. Groups should book in advance by calling (+372) 617 72 35. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

Estonian Puppet Theatre (Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsoote-ater) C-2, Lai 1, tel. (+372) 667 95 55, [email protected], www.nuku.ee. The elaborate Puppet Theatre has been a staple of local entertainment since 1952. It also houses an extensive, high-tech museum that deals with puppet theatre history and pretty much anything else related to the 'pup-pet-verse'. Performances are in Estonian, but small children of any

language can still be wowed by the fun characters. They've also got something called ‘steampunk', which can be viewed from Nunne street 8 (C-2) every half an hour. This bit of animated madness, created by the brilliant Keith Newstead, is guaranteed to take the viewer to another world- “Puff, the Magic Dragon” anybody? QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Museum open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admis-sion 4.79€ or 14.06€ for a family ticket. J

Miia-Milla-Manda G-5, Koidula 21A, tel. (+372) 601 70 57, [email protected], www.linnamuu-seum.ee/miiamillamanda. This hands-on museum just for kids is located in the beautiful Kadriorg Park and is especially geared towards children between the ages of 3 and 11. The playful exhibits are constantly changing and with active themes the little ones are sure to be stimulated to the point of exhaustion - or so we hope. QOpen 12.00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Family ticket 5.11€.

Fun for the whole family Great outdoors Estonian Open Air Museum Vabaőhumuuseumi tee 12, tel. (+372) 654 91 00/(+372) 654 91 01, [email protected], www.evm.ee. Nearly 100 farm buildings nestle on 80ha of forest in Rocca al Mare, on the shore of the Kopli Gulf. Informative signs in Estonian, Russian, English and German guide you through 150 years of farming history. Sample the pea soup and other traditional foods at Kolu Tavern (Kolu Kőrts). Take bus N°21 or 21b from the train station to Vabaőhumuuseum stop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 3€. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is 10€.

Tallinn Botanical Garden (Tallinna Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, tel. (+372) 606 26 66, [email protected], www.tba.ee. With the richest collection of live plants in Estonia, the gardens are a well-kept secret. Around 8,000 species are arranged on 123ha of land, with large modern greenhouses where you can find displays of tropi-cal, subtropical and desert plants. Take bus N°34A or 38 to the Kloostrimetsa stop. January 29 - February 13: exhibi-tion World's endangered flora. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Greenhouses open 11:00 - 16:00. Call 606 26 66 for tours. Admission 2.88€.

Tallinn Zoo (Loomaaed) Paldiski mnt 145, tel. (+372) 694 33 00, [email protected], www.loomaaed.ee. Although not an overly large zoo, Tallinn's animal garden boasts one of the most impressive collections of exotic spe-cies in Northern Europe. Birds of prey are to the left, Siberian tigers and polar bears are straight ahead as you pass the indoor viewing areas. You can check out the newly reopened Elephant House or duck into the steamy, crocodile and chimp-filled Tropical House. Take bus N°22 or trolleybus N°6 from the Vabaduse väljak to the Zoo stop. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Indoor expositions (Tropic house, Elephant house) open Tue - Sun 10:00 - 16:00. You are allowed to wander the zoo 2 hours after the ticket office closes. Admission 3.20€. Family and children's prices available too. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is 10€.

One of Tallinn’s most recognised and legendary figures, the weathervane Vana Toomas (Old Thomas), can be seen guarding over Old Town from the top of the Town hall tower, rain or shine. Toomas wasn’t always as old as his current name suggests - you see, as a wee peasant lad he won an annual archery contest that was only reserved for the nobility. He expected to get into a fair amount of trouble for winning, as it had never been done by someone of his lowly stature, but his win would not be in ‘vain’ as he was invited to become an apprentice guard. The next few years would see much adventure for our young hero as he performed numerous heroic deeds during the Livonian war and went on to serve Tallinn well past the usual retirement age. At some point later the townsfolk noticed a similarity between the weathervane and their favorite soldier and decided to honor him by giving his name to the vane. He has since become a symbol of the city.

Vana Toomas

What to see


69What to see

Quirky museums Health Museum (Tervishoiumuuseum) B-2, Lai 28/30, tel. (+372) 641 17 30/(+372) 641 17 32, [email protected], www.tervishoiumuuseum.ee. Tallinn's school kids learn all about the human body at this old-fashioned and somewhat disturbing museum. On one floor, interactive displays teach younger kids all the systems in the human body (the gigantic model of a tongue is no doubt a big hit!), while the upper floor has photos and models designed to scare older kids away from ever using drugs or having children. Don't visit before, during, or after lunch. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 2.56€.

Patarei Prison F-2, Suur-Patarei, Kalaranna 2, tel. (+372) 504 65 36, [email protected], www.patarei.org. This imposing, seaside complex in the Kalamaja district is now one of the best places in the world to catch a glimpse of Soviet-era prison life in all its dreariness. Originally opened as a sea fortress in 1840, it housed inmates from 1919 until 2004, and has been left virtually untouched since. Visitors can explore the hallways to see cells, work areas, exercise yards and the like. There are also several tours available see website for details. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Closed from September until June except for groups by prior arrangement. See website for details. Admission 2€.

For art museum and gallery listings please check Culture section p.18

Museum ships Lembit and Suur Tőll F-2, Küti 17, tel. (+372) 641 14 08/(+372) 641 14 10, [email protected], www.meremuuseum.ee. Maritime buffs and anyone interested in history will want to seek out Tallinn's old sea-plane port (Lennusadam), home to the Maritime Museum's ships. One of the most fascinating is the Lembit submarine, launched in England in 1936, which served in Estonia's navy before the Soviet invasion. Its interior is original, and visitors can examine the torpedo tubes and cramped bunks. The Suur Tőll is the world's largest surviving steam-powered icebreaker and, since its launch in 1914, has spent decades keeping the Baltic waterways clear. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.10€.

Museum ships



Soviet TallinnThe first thing Tallinners did after regaining independence in August 1991 was to remove as many symbols of Soviet power as they could find, but a few humorously grotesque or sad reminders of that time are still with us.

Architectural Elements With the exception of the Officer's House near Stockmann, few visible sickles and hammers are left on Tallinn's buildings. There are a couple of places where you can still see some rather Soviet-looking stars though. One of them (pictured here) is on the corner of Suur-Karja and Vana-Posti, (D-3), in a building which used to house some offices of the Soviet navy. On the same square you can see the Sőprus cinema with more socialist design elements near the roof.

KGB Headquarters B-3, Pagari 1, at the corner of Pikk 59. Look for the building with the bricked-up cellar windows. It was here that perceived enemies of the regime were in-terrogated and either shot or sent to Siberian work camps. The plaque reads, ‘This building housed the headquarters of the organ of repression of the Soviet occupational power. Here began the road to suffering for thousands of Estonians.' Interestingly, the KGB used the tall spire of the nearby St. Olaf's Church to send radio transmissions.

new

KGB Museum in Viru Hotel C-4, Viru väljak 4 (Sokos Hotel Viru), tel. (+372) 680 93 00, [email protected], www.viru.ee. For years, stories have been circulating about how one side of the first foreign owned and operated hotel in Tal-linn during Soviet times was completely wired up so that the KGB could listen in on foreign and local guests’ conversations. When the iron curtain finally fell, those staffing the room destroyed or took with them what they could and high-tailed it back to 'Mother Russia'. Now the room is finally open to the public and exists exactly the way they left it, including an ashtray and Soviet-era cigarette butts. Sokos also fixed up another adjacent room which serves as a kind of time-capsule to Soviet hotel history. The museum, albeit small, is certainly worth a visit for both tour-ists and locals alike. Q Until May, tours run Sat-Sun, 10:00 and 11:30. Tours cost 5€ for hotel guests and 7€ for others. Groups of up to 25 people should book in advance. J

Linnahall F-3, Mere pst. 20. Built for the Olympics in 1980, this event centre and port is a perfect example of a much-criticised Soviet building practice - overuse of concrete. The hall can best be described as a cross between a parking garage and a somewhat flattened Mayan pyramid. Linnahall is easy to visit by foot since it's so close to the centre. We suggest you hurry though, it's crumbling rather fast.

The Bronze Soldier (Aljosha) I-3/4, Filtri 13, Es-tonian Defence Forces Cemetery. Erected in 1947, this world-famous monument was originally located in front of the National Library and commemorated Soviet soldiers who died fighting in WWII, and from the point of view of locals, oc-cupying Estonia. It served as a kind of ‘tomb of the unknown soldier,' at one point having an ‘eternal flame' burning in front. After the Soviet Union fell, the monument was one of the few of its kind to survive, mainly due to objections by the local Russian-speaking population. The plaques that now flank the soldier simply read ‘For those fallen in World War II' with no reference to nationality. Due to huge and destructive clashes between police and drunken demonstrators largely from Russia, the statue was relocated to the Defence Forces cemetery in the spring of 2007. Visitors to Tallinn can even find Bronze Soldier related t-shirts, DVDs and other memorabilia dedicated to these events.

Danebrog Tower Café & Art Gallery C-1/D-1, Danish King's Gar-den, [email protected], www.dannebrog.ee. Another of the commer-cially developed towers, this one has opened up as a café and an art gal-lery. For a small fee you'll be able to climb up to the top of the tower and also enjoy the views from the old wall section. Just like the knights did in the days of yore, only with Styrofoam cups instead of swords. Special art events are also held, including clay-sculpting classes with a nude model. See website for prices and details. The café seems to be closed at the moment, but you'll still be able to view the tower from the Danish King's Garden. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. J

Epping Tower B-2, Laboratooriumi 31, tel. (+372) 601 30 01, [email protected], www.eppingtower.info. The focus of the museum inside the Epping tower is an interactive exhibition that walks the visitor through the history and development of medieval defence systems. On display are items pertaining to the towers' history, including suits of armour and complete maps of how the town looked during the 15th-century. Make sure you climb all the way to the top, the view of Old Town is pretty cool. Q Open only on Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 3.83€. J

Hellemann Tower Gallery C-3, Müürivahe 48, [email protected], www.hellemann.ee. This medi-eval structure has been converted into an art gallery, but paying the small entrance fee will let you have a look at the inside of the tower and give you a chance to walk along a section of the original town wall where you'll get a pigeons-eye view of Old Town. Don't forget to check out the various exhibitions being held here as well. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 3€. J

Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala towers B-2, Güm-naasiumi 3, tel. (+372) 644 98 67, [email protected]. Three of the oldest towers are open to the public, entrance at this spot. QOpen 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Wed, Thu. Between October-May, hours may vary. Call ahead to make sure they are open. Admission 1.30€.

Viru Gates C-3 The main entrance into Old Town is marked by these beautiful twin gate towers, which are only a fraction of a previous gate structure. The gate entrance was composed of a large tower, walls and the existing two towers. Unfor tunatel y the larger inner gate towers were de-stroyed, but if you close your eyes we're sure that you can picture what they would have looked like.

Town Fortifications

What to see


71What to see

View from Pirita road (F-5)

KadriorgJust a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg is home to magnificent parks and gardens, the Presidential Palace and several art museums.

Kadriorg Palace G-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. (+372) 606 64 03, [email protected], www.ekm.ee. I talian master architect Niccolo Michetti designed this magnifi-cent, Northern Baroque palace in 1718 at the request of Russian Tsar Peter the Great, who intended to use it as a summer residence for the royal family. The emperor named the estate for his wife Catherine I ('Catherine' is 'Kadri' in Estonian), hence the name of the area. The palace is now home to the Kadriorg Art Museum. In addition to perusing the nation's collection of foreign art, visitors get to see the mind-bogglingly ornate Great Hall, and the room upstairs that served as president's office in the 1930s. Don't miss the lavish manicured gardens, out back. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4.20€.

Kadriorg Park Museum & Library G-5, Weizenbergi 26, tel. (+372) 601 31 83, [email protected], www.kadriorupark.ee. This small museum is dedicated to the park's history, as well as to the architecture of other parks around Estonia. Changing exhibits and a library. Q Open on Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Admisson free.

Park and Swan Pond G-4, . The entire leafy park north-east of Weizenbergi is criss-crossed with paths, perfect for a wandering visitor. The forest includes several horse chestnuts planted here in 1722 that were supposed to be replanted later in St. Petersburg, but never were. The most visited spot here is the recently renovated Swan Pond, an artificial, rectangular pond with a picturesque gazebo in the middle. It looks like something out of a Chekhov play, and is a required stop on any tour of Kadriorg. Bring plenty of film for the camera and food for the ducks and swans.

Peter The Great House Museum G-5, Mäekalda 2, tel. (+372) 601 31 36, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum.ee/peetrimaja. This humble little cottage's claim to fame is that this was where Russian Tsar Peter the Great stayed during his visits to Tallinn before his Kadriorg Palace was complete. In fact it's still filled with Peter's furniture, portraits and other artefacts from his interesting life. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 1.92€.

Presidential Palace G-5, Weizenbergi 39. For a few years during Estonia's first period of independence (1918 - 1940), the Estonian head of state worked out of the Kadriorg Palace, but in 1938, this purpose-built presidential palace was opened next to it, just up the hill. The Presidential Palace's style echoes the Kadriorg, albeit without quite so much flourish. Since the building once again serves as the President's office and residence, it's closed to visitors, but you can still wander into the parking area for a better view and, if your timing is lucky, you'll see the honour guards marching out front.

Russalka monument G-5, Across Narva mnt., by the shore. This striking sculpture of an angel facing out into the sea horizon is a memorial to the 177 men of the Russalka, a Russian military ship that tragically sunk while en route to Helsinki in 1893. Created by famed Estonian sculptor A.H. Adamson, the monument has become a Tallinn landmark and a traditional spot for Russian couples to lay flowers on their wedding day.

PiritaA bit further out from Kadriorg is another district that provides an escape from the city's bustle - Pirita. This historic district is actually within Tallinn city limits, only a 10 - 15 minute ride from the centre. When you get here though, you'll never believe you were in Tallinn; suddenly you're surrounded by lush forest, fresh air and, best of all - silence. Getting here is simple. Take bus number 1, 1A, 8, 34A or 38 from the underground stop at the Viru Centre. For the beach, convent or river area, get off at the Pirita stop, which is the first one after you cross the river.

Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) F/G-5/6, Narva mnt 95. Located directly between Kadriorg and Pirita, lies one of Estonia's most important pieces of real estate, the Song Festival Grounds. In June of 1988 these grounds played host to over 100,000 Estonians who raised their collective voices in songs of freedom that would ultimately lead to Estonia regaining her independence after more than 50 years of Soviet rule. Singing has always had an important place in the hearts of Estonians and the first song festival was held in Tartu back in 1869. Currently a Song Festival happens every couple of years, and still plays a huge part of the national identity. When there isn't a festival happening, the grounds host numerous other events and concerts. If you'd like to take a peek at the historic grounds and the massive bowl structure where the choirs sing, the park is open to the public without an admission fee during non-event times. At the top of the hill you will also see a large golden sculpture of Gustav Ernesaks, the famous conductor who also played a big role in the Singing Revolution.

St. Bridget's Convent Ruins (Pirita klooster) Kloostri tee 9, tel. (+372) 605 50 44/(+372) 58 17 35 60, [email protected], www.piritaklooster.ee. Rising up along the banks of the Pirita River, the spectacular ruins of this 15th-century convent make one of Tallinn's more fascinating his-toric sights. Founded in 1407 by the Bridgetine Order, the convent was unique in that it housed both monks and nuns. The convent crumbled in a siege by Ivan the Terrible in 1577 and its stones were later carted off to construction projects throughout Tallinn. What remains today are the towering Gothic gable and walls of the main hall, as well as some sur-rounding foundations and cellars. Take bus N°1, 8, 34A or 38 from Viru väljak to the Pirita stop. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Admission 1.28€.

72 partiCipaCtion

Adventure and travel360 degrees , tel. (+372) 56 22 29 96, [email protected], www.360.ee. At 360 degrees if adventure is the name then they've got the game. All sorts of adventures can be had from river rafting, canoeing, sea kayaking and skating. The type of adventure is only limited to the weather conditions. Also offering a number of scheduled tours. See website for complete details.

Airsport (Eesti Lennuklubi) , tel. (+372) 505 08 74/(+372) 512 37 63, [email protected], www.airsport.ee. In case seeing Estonia from the ground is not enough for you, you could always try seeing it from the air as you plummet thousands of feet to the ground with nothing but a flimsy piece of parachute to keep you from splattering your guts all over God's green earth. They swear it's safe though, we'll leave that up to you. Q Simple tandem jump with instructor and 15 minutes of instruction, 192€. Jump with a round parachute includes a 6hr course and 3 jumps, 160€. See website for directions and details.

Skydive Estonia (Eesti Langevarjuklubi) J-2, Türi 10C, tel. (+372) 54 54 55 44, [email protected], www.skydive.ee. The only way you would get us to jump out of an air plane is if it had experienced some sort of mechanical failure and it had started a collision course with the ground. That being said, I suppose the fear factor is what makes it so exciting. Q 30 minutes of instruction and tandem jump with an instructor, 192€. 4 hours of instruction and 3 instructor assisted deployment jumps, 288€.

XXXL Tours Rohuneeme tee 61C, tel. (+372) 55 53 18 88, [email protected], www.xxxltours.com. Pretty much the most extreme hen and stag party organiser in Tallinn, they provide such unique activities as anger packages with kalash-nikov shooting, go-karting, paintball, clay pigeon shooting, and pub crawling with a female guide... that's right, female guide. Perhaps they even offer machine gun shooting while riding on go-karts with a female guide, you can always ask.

Bowling & BilliardsBamba I-2, Pärnu mnt. 69, tel. (+372) 626 18 50, [email protected], www.bamba.ee. This popular pub is a hit with its 23 tables, highly comfortable atmosphere and decent menu. Games 1.85 - 3.12€/hr. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. X

Ku:lsa:l B-4, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 661 66 82, [email protected], www.kuulsaal.ee. This ultra-modern, ultra-cool, two-storey club offers the closest bowling to Old Town. Try their blacklight system for a cosmic effect. 12 lanes 10.90 - 17.90€/hr. They also offer seven pool tables, including snooker and Russian billiards for for 1.90 - 3.90€ per hour. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

Pepsi Piljard C-3, Aia 10, tel. (+372) 641 42 32, [email protected], www.pepsipiljard.ee. Friendly hall just next door to Hotel Bern. Pay by the hour or per game. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. J

Zelluloosi Bowling I-4, Tartu mnt. 80b, tel. (+372) 681 08 81/(+372) 53 07 27 32, [email protected], www.zbowling.ee. Mmmm, the smell of shoe disinfectant, the sound of pins crashing into each other and the sight of all those bums wiggling on the lanes. This 'friendly' bowling club with attached sauna has lanes for 10.20 - 16.90€/hr. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.

Family funEnergy Discovery Centre A-3, Pőhja pst. 29, tel. (+372) 715 26 50, [email protected], www.energiakeskus.ee. Science made fun, or at the very least, a nerd's paradise. Modelled after the famous Exploratorium in San Francisco, this hands-on museum is designed to demonstrate things like physics, optics and acoustics to the younger generation. There are also exhibits related to space exploration. Don't miss the see-and-do displays downstairs. The museum building is a former power station, in operation from 1913 to 1979. Ring the bell to enter. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3€, family ticket 8€. J

Juku Playland Paldiski mnt. 102, tel. (+372) 665 91 49/(+372) 56 93 31 30, [email protected], www.jukukeskus.ee. Playland offering ball pits, jungle gym, trampoline and inflatable attractions. Tickets start from 1.60€. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. W

Kalev Spa Water Park B-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 70, [email protected], www.kalevspa.ee. Located right downtown, this fully-equipped indoor water park provides a whole host of wet entertainment. Besides its three water slides, it has a 50m lap pool, an upstream swimming pool, kids' pool and play area, saunas, hot tubs and a café. For a 2.5hr visit, the price for children up to 5 years of age is 1€, adults 10.50€ and a family ticket (2 adults plus up to 3 chil-dren) is 29€. Daily and 1.5hr admission also available. QOpen 06:45 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:30. TJFLC

Nõmme Snow Park Vana-Mustamäe 16, tel. (+372) 56 15 91 60, [email protected], www.nomme-lumepark.ee. Skiing, snow tubing, and snowboarding abound at Tallinn's only organised snow hill. In case they wouldn't let you on the plane with your snow-tube, you'll be able to rent one along with skis and snowboards too. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Adult tickets cost between 5-14€, children up until 12 years, 3-10€ depending on the day of the week. See website for rental prices.

Puppet Museum (NUKU Muuseum) C-2, Nunne 8, tel. (+372) 667 95 55, [email protected], www.nuku.ee/est/museum. Who ever thought puppets could be so interesting. This museum, which showcases pretty much everything there is to about puppets and puppetry is an interactive experience the whole family can enjoy. From touch-screens, to a personalised experience via your very own code - the old caveat "look but don't touch" certainly does not apply here. If you're lucky you will even get a chance to see puppets being made in the workshop upstairs and you'll also be able to make your very own souvenir of the whole experience. This is the museum of the future. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. For group bookings call (+372) 667 95 09. Admission 4.79€. J

AHHAA - Science Centre D-2, Kaarli pst 2b (Vaba-duse Väljak), tel. (+372) 666 00 66, [email protected], www.ahhaa.ee. At the bottom of the newly redesigned Freedom Square, this interactive science ex-perience is truly amusing for the whole family. The concept started years ago in the university town of Tartu and now that we have a branch in Tallinn - we're richer for it. The hands-on exhibits will allow the user to become familiar with a fascinating array of scientific concepts, but perhaps the most exciting part of the science centre is the 4D cinema. The 9-seat, multi-sensory set-up allows the viewer to truly experience the films like never before. Who said science wasn't fun. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 5€, family ticket 12€, students and seniors 4.50€. Prearranged group ticket, 4€ per person. Ticket sales end one hour prior to closing. 4D cinema only, Mon-Fri 10:00 - 16:00 3.20€ and all other times 4.50€. For visitors of the centre, cinema ticket is half price. Through 2011 there

will be a special, "Invisible Exhibi-tion". Guests will only be able to ex-perience things in complete darkness and will have to rely on touch, smell and their sense of hear-ing. TJUL

Aah-haa!

Harju street ice rink D-2, Harju street, tel. (+372) 610 10 35, [email protected], www.uisu-plats.ee. Uisuplats, an outdoor skating rink in Old Town, provides a perfect opportunity for slippery, winter fun. It even has its own café and bar! The rink is located adjacent Harju street, next to the Niguliste Church and is open from 10:00 to 22:00 daily. For more details, see www.uisuplats.ee. Q Prices per hour are as follows: Monday to Thursday, children (4 to 15 years) 2.20€, adults (16 and older) 3.50€, Friday to Sunday, children 2.50€, adults 4.50€. Skate rental (1 hr) 1.50€. Note that using your own skates is also permitted. Toilets, lockers and café on site. J

Jeti Ice Hall I-6, Suur-Sőjamäe 14b (near Airport), tel. (+372) 610 10 35, [email protected], www.jeti.ee. Mostly used as a professional sports practice arena, it is open to the public at other times. See website for free-skate schedule. Ticket 3.50 - 4.50€/hr (children under sixteen 2.20 - 2.50€/hr). Skate rental 1.50€/hr. Café and sauna on site.

Premia Ice Hall Haabersti 3, tel. (+372) 660 05 00, [email protected], www.icearena.ee. See website for free-skate ice times. Tickets 5€/50min; children under sixteen 3€. Skate rental 2 - 3€. Q N

Skate away


73partiCipaCtion

CultureKalev Master's Chamber B-4, Roseni 7 (Rotermann Courtyard), tel. (+372) 54 55 58 86/(+372) 54 52 58 29, [email protected], www.kalev.eu. Located in the loft above the Kalev candy shop in the Rotermanni Quarter, the Master Chamber provides guests with the opportunity to create their own marzipan figurines or decorate their own fine chocolates. What could make a better memory of your time in Tallinn than something sweet, created by your own hands - of course, whether or not it ends up being a good memory probably depends on your artistic abilities or lack there of. Workshops are available for a minimum of four guests and arrangements should be made ahead of time by phone, by e-mail or even in person. Prices vary depending on how many people are in your group. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

Loovala (artist collective) B-4, Rotermann 5/ Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 677 52 62, [email protected], www.loov-ala.ee. On the second floor of the Rotermanni Kaubamaja you'll discover an art centre, art gallery, art supply store and art collective that is indeed something quite unique in Tallinn. At Loovala, which means creative space, you'll be able to buy art from the artists themselves, purchase supplies to create your own works, order custom framing, have discussions with creative minds and even attend hands-on workshops. You'll find works by textile artists, print makers, jewellers, multi-discipline artists and traditional painters. You may even be surprised to discover things and techniques you've never seen before. For a full list of all happenings, exhibitions and workshops make sure to pay their website a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Saku Brewery Tallinna mnt 2, Saku, tel. (+372) 650 83 38/(+372) 650 83 39, [email protected], www.pruulikoda.ee. Often considered Tallinn's beer as the factory is only about a 15 minute car ride from the centre, Saku (now fully owned by the Carlsberg Group) has been brewing beer since 1820, thus making it the oldest brewery in Estonia. Visi-tors are invited to check out the museum filled with interesting beer related relics from the days of yore, take the tour of the operational brewery and hoist a few back or grab a bite in Brewhouse Pub. Q You can book tours on weekdays from 9:00 - 17:00. Due to high demand they recommend you book at least three weeks in advance by email [email protected] or by telephone (+372) 53 02 68 58.

Vanalinna Klaasikoda Suur-Sõjamäe 8A, tel. (+372) 55 57 36 37, [email protected], www.vlklaasikoda.ee. Not at all in Old Town as the name would suggest, this house of glass, located right behind Ülemiste Shopping Cen-tre, offers up some unique souvenirs and the opportunity to learn about and indeed create your own glass-terpieces. See website for details. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.


74 getting around getting around

Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and next the Drama theatre just outside Old Town, but grabbing a taxi on the street, especially those parked in Old Town, is the best way to get ripped off. Always check the prices first, which should posted on the taxi's right rear window. These consist of a base fare of usually 2.20 - 2.90€ plus two per-kilometre rates (one for daytime, one for night) which should normally be around 0.32 - 0.70€. When in doubt, you can agree on a price to your destination with the driver before you get in. Ordering a taxi by phone is always the best strategy, as you'll avoid the dishonest taxis that prey on tourists. Here is a list of taxi companies along with their daytime base fares and per-kilometre rates. Night time rates can be about 20% more.

Linnatakso tel. (+372) 1242/(+372) 644 24 42, [email protected], www.linnatakso.ee. 3.07€ + 0.70 - 0.86€/km. Also provides taxis for disabled passengers.Peretakso tel. (+372) 16111/(+372) 646 00 06, [email protected], www.peretakso.ee. 3.20€ + 0.77 - 0.96€/km. Q NSaksa Takso tel. (+372) 1316/(+372) 53 03 50 35, [email protected], saksatakso.edicypages.com/et. 2.17€ + 0.35€/km. Q NTulika Takso tel. (+372) 1200/(+372) 612 00 01, [email protected], www.tulikatakso.ee. 2.88€ + 0.55 - 0.70€/km, maxi taxi 5.75€ + 0.96€.

Taxis

I f you’re driving in Estonia for the first time, here’s what you need to know: traffic signs and laws follow general European standards. The law requires use of seatbelts and headlights at all times. Small children must sit in child seats. You must have a valid license (with photo), your car’s registration and proof of insurance with you in the car, as well as a letter of authorisation if you are not the owner of the vehicle. In pretty much all cases, your driver’s license from back home will work fine. Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/h and in the cities 50 km/h, unless otherwise noted.

For the motorist

ParkingTallinn is so centralised and pedestrian-friendly that there's absolutely no reason to bring a car. If you happen to be here with your own set of wheels though, keep in mind that find-ing parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during working hours, can be a real nightmare. Public parking on streets in the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old Town, costs 1.04 - 4.60€/hour, depending on the zone. Look for posted signs to tell you the price and the hours/days that paid park-ing is in effect. Some city centre areas require you to pay even at night. Buy per-hour parking passes from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be sure to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note) on your dashboard to mark the time that you first parked. If all this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following guarded central parking lots/garages:

EuroPark H-3, Narva mnt. 13, tel. (+372) 661 02 23, [email protected], www.europark.ee. 2.30€/hr. Q 24hrs.Kaarli parking D-1, Kaarli pst. 2, tel. (+372) 1669, [email protected], www.parkimine.ee. 1.53€/hr. QOpen 24hrs.Rävala Parking House D-4, Rävala pst 3, tel. (+372) 1669, [email protected], www.yhi-steenused.ee. 2.24€/hr. Q Open 24hrs.Rotermann parking B-4, Rotermanni 5/ Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 1669, [email protected], www.parkimine.ee. Entrance from Ahtri street. 1.28€/hr. QOpen 24hrs.Solaris parking D-3, Estonia pst 9, tel. (+372) 661 02 23, [email protected], www.solaris.ee. Entrance from Sakala street. 2.56€/hr. QOpen 24hrs.Vabaduse Väljak (Freedom Square) D-2, Vabaduse väljak, tel. (+372) 1669, [email protected], www.parkimine.ee. 1.92€/hr. Q Open 24hrs.Viru Centre C-4, Viru Väljak 4, tel. (+372) 1669, [email protected]., www.parkimine.ee. 1.92€/hr. Q Open 24hrs.

Public transportTallinn's public transportation system is a fairly straightforward network of buses, trollybuses and trams, all of which use the same tickets. Trams provide the simplest way to get around downtown areas, whereas buses are mainly for getting to outlying neighbourhoods. From the centre, most major bus routes leave from the new terminal under the Viru Keskus, or from Vabaduse Väljak. You can easily pick up trams in several places adjacent Old Town - check our handy transport map in the back of the guide. Routes and schedules are also listed in English on the www.tak.ee website, and detailed route maps are posted at most bus stops.When climbing on board, in 98% of cases, you can just hop on any door, i.e. you don't have to show your ticket to the driver. The rare exception is a few buses that have ‘no-entry' signs on their rear doors. If you see this sign and the door doesn't open, head to the front and punch your ticket/show your pass to the driver. Tickets are otherwise checked by inspectors who jump on at random stops. In our experience, inspectors appear very rarely, but in theory they could show up any time. In other words, don't blame us if you get nailed. The fine for 'riding like a rabbit' - as locals call it - is 51€.Tickets: The same tickets are good on all three systems. The simplest version is the single-ride ticket, or talong. Buy one from nearly any kiosk for 0.96€ (a book of ten tickets is only 6.39€) or from the driver for 1.60€. Once you're on board, punch your talong to validate it. Slide it into the green-topped ticket punch and pull the top towards you. Other types of tickets are good for specific periods of time and are only sold in kiosks. These include a 1hr (1.02€; a book of ten tickets 8.31€), 2hr (0.77€), 24hr (4.47€) and tourist-convenient 72hr (7.35€) ticket. These need to be validated the first time they're used - find the modern-looking ticket punch with digital time clock on board the vehicle (usually by the centre door). Long-term visitors can also opt for a 10-day (13.10€) or 30-day (26.84€) pass.

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75getting around

Eesti Autoklubi Laki 11, tel. (+372) 1888/(+372) 697 91 88, [email protected], www.autoclub.ee. For help in any kind of road emergency anywhere in Estonia. Q Open 24hrs.

Towing service

R-Rent J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tal-linn Airport, tel. (+372) 50 36 446 (24hrs), [email protected], www.rrent.ee. Prices starting from 25.55€/day... Car delivery free of charge.

Sir Autorent H-3, Juhkentali 11, tel. (+372) 661 43 53/(+372) 56 51 353 (24hrs), [email protected], www.sirrent.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.


AirportLennart Meri - Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, tel. (+372) 605 88 88 (24hr flight info), fax (+372) 605 84 33, [email protected], www.tallinn-airport.ee. Tallinn's airport is a modern affair, but still so small there's never a worry about getting lost. Officials recommend you arrive 1.5 hours before your flight. Estonian Air check-ins close 35 minutes before take-off. A taxi ride from the centre roughly costs 8€ and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. You can also take bus N°2 (marked Lennujaam - Mőigu) from the 'A. Laikmaa' stop, just outside to the downtown Viru Centre on its east side.

Airline officesAir Baltic D-3, Estonia pst. 1/3, tel. (+372) 630 66 66/(+371) 67 00 60 06, [email protected], www.airbaltic.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Czech Airlines D-4, Kaarli pst 5, tel. (+372) 630 93 97, fax (+372) 630 93 96, [email protected], www.czechairlines.com.Estonian Air I-5, Lennujaama tee 2, at the Airport, tel. (+372) 640 11 60, fax (+372) 640 11 61, [email protected], www.estonian-air.ee.Finnair , tel. (+372) 626 63 09/(+372) 626 63 10, fax (+372) 626 62 52, [email protected], www.finnair.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Lufthansa D-4, Lennujaama tee 2, tel. (+372) 605 81 85, fax (+372) 605 81 87, [email protected], www.lufthansa.ee.

Car rentalABC Autorent Paldiski mnt 105, tel. (+372) 503 31 74, [email protected], www.abcautorent.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Advantage Rent A Car J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 520 30 03 (24h), [email protected], www.advantage.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Bulvar H-3, Regati 1, tel. (+372) 503 02 22 (24hrs), [email protected], www.bulvar.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Europcar J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 605 80 31, [email protected], www.europcar.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Also at: G-3, Jõe 9, tel. 611 62 02. Open 09:00 - 17:00.Hansarent G-3, Ahtri 6, tel. (+372) 655 71 55/(+372) 53 04 40 55 (24hrs), [email protected], www.hansarent.ee. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.Hertz J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 605 89 23, [email protected], www.hertz.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Also at: G-3, Ahtri 12, tel. 611 63 33, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sat, Sun.


76 getting around getting around

Days Dep. Arrival Terminal Ship Terminal Dep. Arrival DaysTo Stockholm From Stockholm1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 10:00* D Baltic Queen/Victoria I (Tallink) Värtahamnen 17:45 10:00* 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Ferries to Stockholm

*arrival on next day.

From Tallinn Helsinki To TallinnDays Departure Arrival Terminal Ship Terminal Departure Arrival Days1 2 3 4 5 6 – 07:30 09:30 D Star/Superstar

(Tallink)Länsi 07:30 09:30 1 2 3 4 5 – –

1 2 3 4 5 – 7 11:00 13:00 D Star/Superstar (Tallink)

Länsi 10:30 12:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

– – – – – 6 – 11:30 13:30 D Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 08:30 10:30 – – – – – 6 –1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:00 16:30 D Baltic Princess

(Tallink)Länsi 18:30 22:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00 16:00 D Star/Superstar (Tallink)

Länsi 14:00 16:00 1 2 3 4 5 – 7


Länsi 17:30 19:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7


Länsi 21:30 23:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 14:30 16:30 – – – – – 6 –1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 10:30 A M/S Viking XPRS Katanajokka 11:30 14:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 71 2 3 4 5 6 – 18:00 20:30 A M/S Viking XPRS Katanajokka 21:30 00:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 –– – – – – – 7 16:30 19:00 A M/S Viking XPRS Katanajokka 20:00 22:30 – – – – – – 71 2 3 4 5 – – 17:00 20:30 A M/S Nordlandia

(Eckerö)Länsi 08:00 11:00 1 2 3 4 5 – –

– – – – – 6 – 17:30 21:00 A M/S Nordlandia (Eckerö)

Länsi 09:00 12:00 – – – – – 6 –

– – – – – – 7 16:00 19:30 A M/S Nordlandia (Eckerö)

Länsi 10:30 13:30 – – – – – – 7

A M/S Nordlandia (Eckerö)

Länsi 21:45 00:45 – 2 3 – 5 – –

– 2 3 4 5 6 – 01:30 07:00 A M/S Nordlandia (Eckerö)*

Länsi 21:45 00:45 1 2 3 4 5 – –

1 – – – – – – 00:30 06:40 A M/S Nordlandia (Eckerö)*

Länsi 20:30 23:30 – – – – – – 7

Ferries to Helsinki

* Scedule from March 03, 2011.

Ferry schedule valid as of January 11, 2011. Please note that “Tallinn In Your Pocket” does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.

FerriesThe vast majority of visitors travelling onward from Tallinn go by ship, and it's no wonder - the city has excellent, afford-able ferry connections to Helsinki and Stockholm. On the Tallinn-Helsinki route, you have the choice between large car ferries, which make the crossing in about two hours, and fast ferries (hydrofoils and catamarans), which usually take only 1.5 hours, but are seasonal and don't run in all weather conditions. Ferries leave from various terminals of the city's two passenger harbours, clustered just outside Old Town (see our map).

Linnahall (Linnahalli kiirlaevade sadam) F-3, Mere pst. 20, tel. (+372) 699 93 33, [email protected], www.lindaliini.ee. Only Lindaline hydrofoils, which operate exclu-sively in warmer months and in good weather conditions, leave from this Soviet-era concrete wonder. Q Ticket office open 1 hr before first departure until the last departure.

Passenger Port, Terminal A - D (Reisisadam) F-3, Sadama 25, tel. (+372) 631 85 50, [email protected], www.por-toftallinn.com. Nearly all ferry companies use the Passenger Port, which is divided into terminals A through D. All Tallink

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77getting around

Find your way atwww.inyourpocket.com

From Tallinn To TallinnDays Departure Arrival Destination Departure Arrival Days Price1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:49 09:50 TARTU 06:39 08:54 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 6.71-9.91€1 2 3 4 5 – – 07:56 10:15 TARTU 07:34 10:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 6.71-9.91€– – – – 5 – 7 14:07 16:26 TARTU 14:19 16:35 – – – – 5 – 7 6.71-9.91€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:51 17:56 TARTU 17:23 19:39 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 6.71-9.91€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:10 19:30 TARTU 18:15 21:19 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 6.71-9.91€– – – – 5 – 7 20:09 22:28 TARTU 19:54 22:10 – – – – 5 – 7 6.71-9.91€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:56 09:43 PÄRNU 07:17 09:54 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 5.43€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:25 20:03 PÄRNU 17:08 19:48 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 5.43€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:49 10:20 VILJANDI 06:36 09:08 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 6.39-7.67€– – – – 5 6 7 13:34 16:05 VILJANDI 13:21 15:52 – – – – 5 6 7 6.39-7.67€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:36 19:05 VILJANDI 16:19 18:51 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 6.39-7.67€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 17:45 RAKVERE 05:51 07:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 3.96€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:20 20:09 RAKVERE 08:17 09:58 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 3.96€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 19:30 NARVA 06:32 09:58 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7.35€

Domestic train schedule

Schedule valid as of January 11, 2011. Please note that “Tallinn In Your Pocket” does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.

From Tallinn To TallinnDays Deparure Arrival Destination Dep. Arr. Days PriceDaily 17:40 09:20* MOSCOW 18:05* 08:25 Daily 55 – 200€**

International train schedule

*Moscow time. ** Prices (one-way) valid as of January 11, 2011. Schedule valid as of January 11, 2011. Please note that “Tallinn In Your Pocket” does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.

TrainsTrain travel in Estonia has not gained the popularity it has elsewhere in Europe. The only real international connections are to points east ( Moscow and beyond), and forget about taking the train to Riga or Vilnius. It is, however, possible to get to Tartu and other Estonian cities by rail. Three separate companies cover Estonia's train system: GoRail (www.gorail.ee) handles international, Edelaraudtee's trains (www.edel.ee) are inter-city, and Elektriraudtee (www.elektriraudtee.ee) does the local electric trains.

Balti Jaam (Train Station) B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 00 23/(+372) 1447, [email protected], www.baltijaam.ee. Located just outside Old Town, Tallinn's newly-revamped train station boasts a trendy café, fountain and a day spa, but still has almost no information posted in English. Luckily, the system is not too confusing and there are information booths (open 07:10 - 11:30; 12:30 - 18:15, Sat - Sun 08:00 - 11:30; 12:30 - 18:15; Gorail info open 08:00 - 13:00; 14:30 - 19:00), usually staffed by someone multi-lingual. Tickets for all trains, including the Russia trains, are sold from windows in the main hall (take a number and wait). For domestic routes, you don't even have to bother with this process since the same tickets can always be purchased right on board the trains. A touch-screen vending machine in the centre of the hall also sells tickets for domestic routes (excluding the electric lines).

ships use D-Terminal. Q Information open in A-Terminal 06:30 - 18:30, in D-Terminal 24hrs administrator desk.

Ferry companiesEckerö Line F-3, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. (+372) 664 60 00, fax (+372) 664 60 01, [email protected], www.eckeroline.ee. Large car ferry Nordlandia. Adult single tickets starting at 19€. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 09:00 - 16:30. Reservations and information by phone 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 8:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:30.

Lindaline F-3, Mere pst 20e, tel. (+372) 699 93 33, fax (+372) 699 93 30, [email protected], www.lindaliini.ee. Hydrofoils. Adult single tickets starting from 26€ up to 46€, de-pending on class, hour and day of departure. Q Ticket office open 1 hr before first departure until the last departure.

Tallink G-3, A. Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) 640 98 08, fax (+372) 611 88 95, [email protected], www.tallink.ee. Large and fast car ferries. Adult single tickets start from 26€. To Stockholm from 122€. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: Tallinna Kaubamaja service street at Gonsiori 2 (H-3). Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Viking Line F-3, Terminal A, passenger Port, tel. (+372) 666 39 45/(+372) 666 39 66, fax (+372) 666 39 39, [email protected], www.vikingline.ee. Large car fer-ries Viking XPRS. Adult single tickets from 22€. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sun 06:30 - 16:30. Reservations and information by phone 07:30 - 21:00.


78 getting around Mail & phones

From Tallinn To TallinnDays Departure Arrival Destination Departure Arrival Days Price1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 10:30 RIGA* 08:00 12:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00 18:10 RIGA* 12:00 16:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:00 23:15 RIGA* 19:00 23:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13€1 2 3 – 5 – – 05:45 10:00 RIGA 17:00 21:25 1 2 3 – 5 – – 28.76€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 11:15 RIGA 12:30 16:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17.58€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:30 12:50 RIGA 14:30 18:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10.55€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 14:15 RIGA 16:00 20:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17.58€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:45 17:00 RIGA 18:30 22:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17.58€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:45 20:05 RIGA 10:00 14:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10.55€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:30 22:55 RIGA 07:00 11:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17.58-23.97€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 01:40 RIGA 01:55 06:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13.03€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 00:30 05:10 RIGA 21:00 01:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10.55€1 2 3 4 5 – 7 06:00 13:00 ST. PETERSBURG 18:00 23:20 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 47.93€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 03:50 12:25 ST. PETERSBURG 16:45 23:05 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15-18€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 15:10 ST. PETERSBURG 19:00 00:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 28.76€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:15 18:45 ST. PETERSBURG 23:00 06:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 23.01-24.29€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:00 20:15 ST. PETERSBURG 14:00 20:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 24.29-27.48€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:15 21:55 ST. PETERSBURG 09:00 14:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 28.76€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:30 22:55 ST. PETERSBURG 07:15 13:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15.90-22€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 23:00 07:05 ST. PETERSBURG 23:50 05:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 28.76€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 15:30 ST. PETERSBURG 24.93€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 23:59 08:30 ST. PETERSBURG 11:15 18:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 25.56-27.48€1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:30 14:40 VILNIUS* 07:00 16:15 1 – – – – – – 26€1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 06:25 VILNIUS 21:00 06:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 31.28€

International bus schedule

Schedule valid as of January 11, 2011. Please note that “Tallinn In Your Pocket” does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.

* Lines operated by Ecolines, others by Lux Express. Prices for Ecolines are valid for tickets bought from the internet (5% discount compared to rack price).

BusesIf you’re travelling city-to-city in the Baltics and you don’t have your own car, the bus is definitely the way to go. It’s also a good way to meet local students. Connections are frequent and cheap, allowing you to cross the country for the same money you might spend on a taxi in Tallinn.

Bus Station (Tallinna Bussiterminal) H-4, Last-ekodu 46, tel. (+372) 12 550, [email protected], www.bussireisid.ee. Tallinn's small bus station is a small, Soviet-era relic, but it has been renovated, services are fairly efficient and it's not as depressing as it used to be. Tickets are available inside the station or from the driver. (Let ticket-holders get on the bus first.) Ticket prices depend on the bus company and route. On international routes it is advisable to reserve or buy your ticket in advance. On internal routes this is generally not necessary, however there are exceptions: On Fridays and Sundays buses to popular weekend destinations like Pärnu or Tartu tend to fill up quickly, so buying your ticket earlier in the day will guarantee a spot. Get to the station by taking city trams N°2 or 4 from the centre to the Bussijaam stop. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00.

Ecolines I-4, Masina 22, tel. (+372) 614 36 00/(+372) 56 37 79 77, [email protected], www.ecolines.ee. A large bus company with routes throughout the Baltics and Europe. Ecolines is generally cheaper (in many senses of the term) than Eurolines. Conveniently you can book and pay for tickets via the internet then print out the ticket yourself, saving a trip to the ticket office. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. For the early birds, tickets can also be pur-chased here: ECOLINES Ticket Office, H-4, Lastekodu 46, tel. 56 37 79 97, [email protected], open 06:30 - 18:30.

Hansabuss Business Line Kadaka tee 62a, tel. (+372) 627 90 80/(+372) 53 05 50 55, [email protected], www.businessline.ee. By far the best way to get to Pärnu or Riga, other than flying, the Hansabuss business line really takes good care of its guests. They offer complimentary WIFI, comfortable seating and also have a bus attendant who will cater to your needs. For an additional fee you can purchase food and beverages on board. Tickets must be purchased through their website. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Lux Express H-4, Lastekodu 46, tel. (+372) 680 09 09, fax (+372) 680 09 01, [email protected], www.luxexpress.eu. Formerly known as Eurolines, Lux Express runs most international bus routes from Estonia. Seats on all routes can be reserved up to 24 hours in advance by calling ahead, though getting through to the office requires persistence. As with Ecolines, you can also buy tickets from the website and print them out. Find the office on the bus station's second floor. QOpen 06:30 - 21:30.

getting around


79Mail & phones

Stay in touchwww.inyourpocket.com

TelephoneCalling within EstoniaTo call any number within Estonia, either from a fixed line or a local mobile, just dial the number as it's written. There are no city codes in Estonia; these were phased out in early 2004. Beware of a few out-of-date ads and business cards that might still have numbers listed the old-fashioned way, with fewer than 7 digits. In this case, just tack the former city code onto the beginning of the number. For example, if you see a six-digit number for tartu, where the city code was '7', just add a '7' at the beginning.Mobile numbersEstonian mobile numbers all begin with '5'. Just dial the num-ber as is. If you have an old listing for a mobile number that begins with '05', just ignore the '0' and start with the '5'. RoamingTo call any telephone in Estonia from a foreign mobile account, dial +372 followed by the number, as outlined before.

Telephone All lines in Estonia are digital, so there's never a problem with quality. The only real annoyance is that Esto-nians have fallen in love with their mobiles, so getting a hold of someone on an old-fashioned fixed line, or ‘table phone' as it's called locally, is sometimes a challenge.

To get a new telephone line in Tallinn, call Elion on tel. 165 from inside Estonia. Alternatively, send them an email at [email protected] or see the website www.elion.ee for more information.

As of December 2010 there are no longer any public payphones in all of Estonia, see Prepaid mobile calling for some options.

Mobile service providersRest assured that the same GSM mobile you use in Eu-rope or the UK will also work here. To get the best deal on roaming charges, check with your provider at home to see which Estonian network they're partnered with, and set your network selection accordingly. Better still, you can avoid the roaming question entirely by getting a local Estonian number. All you have to do is buy a starter kit, (see Prepaid mobile calling). Alternatively, if you have an Estonian address, you can sign a contract with one of the networks listed here:

Diil C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, EMT box in Viru Centre, tel. (+372) 13 445, [email protected], www.diil.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at: D/E-3/4, Estonia pst 9, EMT box in Solaris Centre. Open 10:00 - 21:00Elisa C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 660 06 00, [email protected], www.elisa.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.EMT (Estonian Mobile Telephone) C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, Viru Centre, tel. (+372) 639 71 30, [email protected], www.emt.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Tele2 C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6, (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 686 68 66, [email protected], www.tele2.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.TeleYks C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 Elisa box in Viru Centre, tel. (+372) 56 123 123, www.teleyks.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

PostIf all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, there’s no need to visit a post office. Pretty much any kiosk will sell you stamps, just make sure they’re the right value for what you’re sending and where. The chart below explains the rates for both postcards and letters for the four pricing zones that Estonia uses. Once you’ve got your stamps licked and affixed, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small orange boxes attached to buildings around town. Don’t put your mail in the dark green boxes with round holes in the sides. Those are trash bins.

Central Post Office C-4, Narva mnt. 1, tel. (+372) 617 70 33/(+372) information tel. 661 66 16, fax (+372) 605 33 45, [email protected], www.post.ee. Tallinn's main post office is the charming cement block located just opposite the Viru Hotel. Packages , express mail and all other postal services are sent from the floor at ground level. Signs etc are in Estonian or Russian only, however, an English speak-ing person can always be found. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Old Town Post Office (Vanalinna postipood) C-3, Viru 20, tel. (+372) 627 64 45, www.post.ee. You'll be able to purchase and send post cards and other souvenirs and small items from this handy location. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Prepaid mobile callingNow that there aren't any more public payphones in Esto-nia, if you want to make a call inside the country or to back home you have a few options. You can use your own mobile carrier for some pretty hefty roaming rates, you can use the phone in your hotel room - also for a small fortune and not so convenient, or you can buy one of the many inexpensive, prepaid starter packages on the market. There are quite a few available in Estonia, here we have listed the major players. These kits are available in most supermarkets, R-Kiosk, Statoil fuelling stations, the post office, from the service provider themselves and can be topped-up online or at the point of purchase. Each listing also states the service provider. See individual websites for further information, SMS prices, web browsing etc.

Diil (EMT, Elion) , tel. (+372) 13445, www.diil.ee. Starter package costs 1.60€, includes a SIM card and the same amount of airtime. Top-up minimum 7.61€. Calls within Estonia, 0.05€/min. Calls within Europe, US and Canada 0.65€/min.Elisa , tel. (+372) 660 06 00, www.elisa.ee/konekaart/. Starter package costs 1.60€, includes a SIM card and the same amount of airtime. Calls within Estonia, 0.05€/min. Calls within Europe, 0.35-0.50€/min depending on the country, US and Canada, 0.50€/min.Simpel (EMT, Elion) , tel. (+372) 123, www.simpel.ee. Starter package costs 3.20€, includes a SIM card and the same amount of airtime. Top-up minimum 6.39€. Calls within Estonia, 0.06€/min. Calls within Europe, 0.35-0.70€/min depending on the country, US 0.49€/min and Canada 0.52€/min.Smart (Tele 2) , tel. (+372) 686 68 66, www.tele2.ee/konekaart.html. Starter package costs 2.88€, includes a SIM card and the same amount of airtime. Top-up minimum also 2.88€. Calls within Estonia, 0.03€/min. Calls within Europe and to the US and Canada, 0.60€/min.Zen (Elisa) , tel. (+372) 660 06 00, www.zen.ee. Starter package costs 3.20€, includes a SIM card and the same amount of airtime. Top-up minimum also 3.20€. Calls within Estonia, 0.11€/min if you top-up with 12.78€. Calls within Europe, 0.35-0.5€/min depending on the country, US and Canada cost 0.50€/min.


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Aarded D-2, Rüütli 13, tel. (+372) 56 66 66 11/(+372) 56 50 07 38, [email protected], www.aarded.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. JAigrette Antique C-3, Väike-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 641 15 67, [email protected], www.aigrette.ee. Q JAndry's Antiques & Collectibles C-3, Viru 9, tel. (+372) 631 42 63, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JAntiik C-2, Kinga 5, tel. (+372) 646 62 32, [email protected], www.antiqueshop.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.Antikvaar C-2, Rataskaevu 20, tel. (+372) 641 82 69. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.BalticAntiik B-3, Pikk 31, tel. (+372) 641 84 99/(+372) 631 27 51, [email protected], www.thebestantique.com. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JIdla Antiik B-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 646 40 60, [email protected], www.idla.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. .Old Times Antique C-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 529 35 41/(+372) 631 47 25, [email protected], www.oldtimes.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. JReval Antiik D-2, Harju 13 (entrance at Müürivahe 2), tel. (+372) 644 07 47, [email protected], www.reval-antique.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Shifara Gallery Antiques D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. (+372) 644 35 36, [email protected], www.shifara-antique.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Antiques

There are plenty of opportunities to spend moneyshopping in Tallinn. Old Town is literally lined with dozensof souvenir, antique and speciality stores. Within Old Townthe main shopping streets are Viru, Müürivahe, Suur-Karja,Väike-Karja and Kullassepa. The most central shoppingcentre is Viru Centre home also to the Kaubamajadepartment store. Kaubamaja and Stockmann offereverything from electronics to cosmetics as well as largeclothing sections. Other smaller malls include the FoorumCentre, the unique Rotermanni Kaubamaja and the SolarisCentre (see p.87 for listings).

Art shopsAllagallery C-2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 641 55 01, [email protected], www.allagallery.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.Bogapott C-1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JDomini Canes C-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. (+372) 644 52 86, [email protected], www.glassart.ee. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. NFortune Cookie (Õnneküpsis) C-3, Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10, [email protected], www.onnekyp-sis.eu. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JGalerii 2 C-1/2, Lühike jalg 1, tel. (+372) 641 83 08, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.Galerii 36 C-1/2, Lühike jalg 8, tel. (+372) 644 16 58, [email protected]. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Galerii-G D-2, Vabaduse väljak 6, tel. (+372) 644 89 71, [email protected], www.galeriig.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Hindricus anno 1393 C-2, Lühike jalg 2, tel. (+372) 660 52 03, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.Hobusepea Galerii B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 528 53 24/(+372) 627 67 77, [email protected], www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.Katariina Gild C-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, [email protected], katariinagild.eu. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. NKunstiaken C-3, Vene 20, tel. (+372) 646 42 09, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.Lühikese Jala Galerii C-1/2, Lühike jalg 6, tel. (+372) 631 47 20, [email protected], www.hot.ee/lgalerii. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.Myy Art Kunstigalerii C-3, Müürivahe 36, tel. (+372) 554 20 88, [email protected], www.piretkandler.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.Navitrolla Galerii B-3, Sulevimägi 1, tel. (+372) 631 37 16, [email protected], www.navitrolla.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

BookshopsYou won't find a great selection of books in English or other foreign languages in Tallinn, but you won't be left without any reading material either. Rahva Raamat has the widest selection of English language novels. Allecto has a good variety of speciality books and textbooks.

Allecto H-3, Juhkentali 8, tel. (+372) 627 72 30, [email protected]. This specialist in foreign language books is a good bet for all sorts of titles. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Apollo Raamatupood D/E-3/4, Estonia pst 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 633 60 00, [email protected], www.apollo.ee. The most central source for English-language novels and travel guides. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Raamatukoi C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 683 77 10, [email protected], www.raamatukoi.ee. Specialising in antique books. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Rahva Raamat C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 644 66 55, www.rahvaraamat.ee. Probably the best stocked in Estonia for English books, with titles through-out the store. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at: D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. 644 36 82. Open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

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Estonian Handicraft House C-2, Pikk 22, tel. (+372) 631 40 76, [email protected], www.crafts.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 15, tel. 631 33 93. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Also at: C-1, Lühike jalg 6, tel. 641 17 08. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, Viru Centre, tel. 610 13 32. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J

C-2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20, [email protected], www.oldehansa.ee. This great medieval shop, brought to us by the folks at Olde Hansa, features authentic wares such as hand-blown glass, hand-crafted

pottery, leather items and even spirits. All of the bits and pieces here have been recreated based on count-less hours of research and are replicas of items used by actual townsfolk in the days of yore. The items are even functional, which is pretty cool in our books. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Medieval wares

Gifts & SouvenirsThe difficult challenge of selecting souvenirs that actually possess some practical use is actually possible to achieve in Tallinn. However, just as in any town heavily reliant on tourism, you could also go poor buying useless crap or items that really have nothing to do with Estonia, such as the ever prevalent Russian nesting doll. Just like the nesting doll, Old Town is filled with souvenir shops, some even inside other souvenir shops. Here we have listed some of the more reputable ones.

Angel & Button Shop (Ingli ja Nööbi Pood) C-2, Pühavaimu 2, [email protected], www.puupank.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. JBaraka D-3, Pärnu mnt 4, [email protected], www.baraka.ee. Funky gifts for the 'cool' crowd. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

Estonian Craftsmen Shop C-3, Viru 23. This souvenir shop features different sections devoted to various handicrafts such as leather goods, local delicacies, wood items etc. The craftsmen sell their own wares and you won't find any 'Russian nesting dolls' or other non-Estonian souvenirs for sale here - a plus in our books. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. JFankadelik C-3, Vana-Viru 6, [email protected], www.fankadelik.com. Fresh designs by young and hip Estonian de-signers. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JFortuuna Medieval Butik G-3, Lootsi 3a, www.ker-aamika.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Handicraft World (Käsitöömaailm) C-3, Viru 13/15, on 0 floor, tel. (+327) 642 04 40. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JHelina Tilk C-2, Rataskaevu 6, tel. (+372) 646 42 80, [email protected], www.helinatilk.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Also at: D-2, Lühike jalg 5, tel 631 33 28. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Also at: B-3, Pikk 41. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Jardin C-2/3, Apteegi 3, tel. (+372) 631 46 25. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. JKalev Chocolate Shop B-4, Roseni 7 (in the inner yard of Rotermanni quarter), tel. (+372) 54 52 58 29, [email protected], www.kalev.eu. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 16 (in Kalev Marzipan Museum), tel. 646 41 92. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. JKinkepood C-2, Kuninga 2, tel. (+372) 631 47 57. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JLoomekombinaat G-3, Narva mnt 14, tel. (372) 672 09 07, [email protected], www.loomekombinaat.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Natural Style C-3, Viru 1, tel. (+372) 667 51 13, [email protected], www.horveit.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-3, Vene 2, tel. 667 52 00. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-3. JNukupood C-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 644 30 58, www.nukupood.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. JRaevangla Käsitöökelder C-2, Raekoja 4/6, behind Town Hall, tel. (+372) 644 64 88. QOpen 10:00 - 16:30, Sun 10:00 - 16.00. J

Saaremaa sepad C-2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 646 43 15, [email protected], www.sepad.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. JSepa Äri B-3, Olevimägi 11, tel. (+372) 680 09 71, [email protected], www.ross.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JSouvenirs (M. Villadisain) C-2, Vanaturu kael 10, tel. (+372) 641 89 03. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Also at: C-3, Viru 21, tel. 600 41 53. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Also at: C-2, Pikk 2, tel. 646 45 58. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-2, Rataskaevu 2, tel 642 05 14. Open 10:00 - 19:00. JTallinn Ceramic Factory C-3, Viru 13/15, on 0 floor, tel. (+372) 56 71 42 56. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.Wood & Bug Shop (Puu ja Putuka Pood) C-3, Vene 6, [email protected], www.puupank.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. J



Alcohol Booze of any type (cheap in Estonia) is a gi f t that never seems to go amiss, but the most Tal l innesque is def ini tel y Vana Tallinn, a 1960s concoction that’s considered the quintessential Es-tonian beverage. Buy the leather pouch that’s often sold with i t.

Amber Though all the petrified tree sap sold here is actually from Lithu-ania and Poland, i t’s still considered a sought-after gift for anyone visit-ing the Baltic countries. Ranging in shades from green to white to deep brown, i t’s made into all manner of jewellery and figurines.

Ceramics Sou-venir shops do a good trade in ceramic figures, especially li ttle ce-ramic buildings. Some are fairy-tale creations that have a hollow inside where you can put a candle. Others are amazingl y precise copies of specific buildings in Old Town.

Chocolate Anything by famous local confectioner, Kalev. Assort-ments with pictures of Tallinn are a hit. One of the big favorites to buy is their Maiasmokk chocolate candy box.

Knits Sweaters of all varieties, knit caps, gloves and mittens are traditional gifts that are sold just about everywhere in Old Town. The most interesting place to shop for knitwear is definitely the sweater market on Müürivahe, along the Old Town wall near McDonald’s.

Linen The traditional fabric from centuries gone by is still a popular handicraft items among the locals. Table coverings are the most obvi-ous use, but a linen shir t can also make a stylish gift for your favourite knight.

Marzipan Originally used for i ts medicinal proper ties, the sweet almond-flavoured confection has been produced and sold in Tallinn for at least 500 years and just might have become as popular as Lübeck Marzipan had it not been for those pesky Soviets.

Smithery wares Blacksmi ths have been whacking hot iron with hammers for many centuries in Tal-linn. You can find items ranging from ashtrays to curtain rods for sale at any given souvenir shop. After all nothing says “I love you” better than an iron-forged fireplace poker.

Wood Toys, dolls, beer mugs, kitchen utensils and anything else that can be carved out of juniper are popular, and gi ve sou venir shops their distinctive fragrance.

What to buy in Estonia

Claire Boutique C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 631 35 88, www.kristall.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Kristall C-3, Viru 16, tel. (+372) 644 91 85, [email protected], www.elmalin.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Crystal & Glass

Home designEne ja Anni C-3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 53 65. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.Kiika Kööki B-3, Uus 28, tel. (+372) 641 68 56, [email protected], www.kiikakooki.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.Laura Ashley D-3, Suur-Karja 23, tel. (+372) 627 01 65, [email protected]. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JMang Mustamäe tee 3A, tel. (+372) 656 73 92, [email protected], www.mang.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Muster J-2, Pärnu mnt. 139, tel. (+372) 679 17 46, [email protected], www.muster.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.Teaspon J-2, Türi 4, tel. (+372) 650 87 15, [email protected], www.teaspon.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Universaal Universum B-3, Olevimägi 16, tel. (372) 641 17 03, [email protected], www.eksootika.ee. QO-pen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.Villeroy & Boch C-3, Valli 4, tel. (+372) 644 04 89, [email protected], www.villeroy-boch.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JZizi C-3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 12 22, [email protected], www.zizi.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Also at: C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. 644 11 55. Open 10:00- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

JewelleryAurum C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 644 98 74, [email protected], www.aurum.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JGoldman C-3, Suur-Karja 9, tel. (+372) 641 93 33, [email protected], www.goldman.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JJuveel D-3, Pärnu mnt 8, tel. (+372) 644 42 16, [email protected], www.juveel.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Kuldgraal B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 646 42 01, www.kuldgraal.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Kuldsőrme Kullaäri D-3, Väike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 640 68 80, [email protected], www.goldfinger.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JRusskie Samotsvető D-3, Väike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 631 30 11. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JSangla juveelisalong C-2, Kullassepa 7, tel. (+372) 644 23 13, [email protected], www.sangla.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Sangla kullassepaäri C-2, Kullassepa 3, tel. (+372) 501 28 35, www.kuld.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Time & Diamonds C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 15 99, [email protected], www.royalboutique.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at: C-3, Viru 23, tel. 631 33 77. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

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Estonian fashion designersBaltman C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 660 14 69, www.baltman.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Bastion C-3, Viru 12, tel. (+372) 644 15 55, www.bastion.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Also at: C-4, Viru väljak 5/6 (Viru Centre), tel. 610 13 27. Open 09:00 - 21:00.HULA B-2/3, Pikk 41, tel. (+372) 646 43 69, [email protected], www.hula.ee. Q JIIDA - Estonian Textile, Design & Fashion C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 641 10 77, www.iidadesign.eu. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JIvo Nikkolo C-2, Suur-Karja 14, tel. (+372) 641 90 57/(+372) 641 90 58, [email protected], www.ivonikkolo.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.Kairi Vilderson C-3, Aia 3 (WW Passaaž), tel. (+372) 627 12 10, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.Lana Malysheva Boutique C-3, Uus 2, tel. (+372) 631 32 54/(+372) 518 26 74. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.Les Petites Disain H-3, Tartu mnt 28, [email protected], www.lespetites.ee. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Monton C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 660 18 47, www.montonfashion.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Mosaic I-5, Suur-Sõjamäe 4 (Ülemiste Centre), tel. (+372) 603 49 47, [email protected], www.mosaic-fashion.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.Namarie C-3/4, Aia 3 (WW Passaž), tel. (+372) 627 12 41/(+372) 53 43 07 56, [email protected]. Original works by young Estonian fashion designers. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.Nu Nordik D-2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. (+372) 644 93 92, [email protected], www.nunordik.ee. Clothes and more from young Estonian designers. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Make Up Store D-3, Pärnu mnt 10, tel. (+372) 648 14 88, [email protected], www.makeup-store.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Rosalind H-3, Tartu mnt 14, tel. (+372) 661 23 97, www.rosalind.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Cosmetics

Oma Asi C-2, Saiakang 1, tel. (+372) 633 50 25, [email protected], www.omaasi.com. This quaint little shop hous-es unique Estonian creations. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JPohjanheimo D-2, Rüütli 28, tel. (+372) 641 00 52/(+372) 509 05 67, www.pohjanheimo.com. Q JSaima Priks Galerii-stuudio E-3, Tatari 7-3, tel. (+372) 56 56 77 89, [email protected], www.hot.ee/saimapriks.Sangar H-1, Endla 45 (Kristiine Centre), tel. (+372) 730 73 09, [email protected], www.sangar.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.Süda Boutique C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 646 75 35, [email protected], www.suda.ee. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J

Bonbon lingerie E-2, Pärnu mnt 21, tel. (+372) 642 20 42, [email protected], www.bon.ee. Estonia's very own brand of stylish and sexy underwear oozes femininity. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.Intimo C-3, Viru 17, tel. (+372) 644 68 76, [email protected], www.intimo.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Also at: H-2, Pärnu mnt 38. Open 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun.La Perla Luxton Boutique E-2, Pärnu mnt 27, tel. (+372) 660 62 66, [email protected], www.laperla-eesti.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Linette D-3, Müürivahe 17, tel. (+372) 648 54 00, [email protected], www.linette.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at: C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel 610 13 76. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J

Lingerie



Bambini B-3, Pikk 48, tel. (+372) 646 43 94. Baby and children's clothes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JJacadi C-3, Väike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 601 02 31. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JJuku Toy Centre Mustamäe tee 3, tel. (+372) 652 55 50, [email protected], www.jukukeskus.ee. Toys. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.Laste Maailm D-3, Pärnu mnt. 6, tel. (+372) 644 93 80/(+372) 644 28 70, [email protected], www.lastemaailm.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.Nukupood C-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 644 30 58, www.nukupood.ee. Dolls and toys. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. JTaibula H/I-1, Endla 45 (Kristiine Centre), tel. (+372) 665 03 22, [email protected], www.taibula.ee. Educational and environmentally friendly toys.QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. T

Kids' stuff

Fashion storesBershka C-4, Rotermanni 12, tel. (+372) 664 50 05, [email protected], www.bershka.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.Denim Dream C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 15 90, [email protected], www.denimdream.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Don & Donna D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 641 42 92. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JElegance D-3, Väike-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 699 97 68. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JEmporio Armani D-3, Pärnu mnt 10, tel. (+372) 628 22 72. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.Esprit C-2, Raekoja plats 4, tel. (+372) 644 63 56. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: D-4, Melon Centre, Estonia pst 1/3, tel. 646 60 65. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 13 58. Open 09:00 - 21:00. JFashion Palace C-3, Uus 4b, tel. (+372) 648 54 42, [email protected], www.fashionpalace.ee. Wide variety of hot labels, including Yves Saint Laurent, Ermanno Scervino, Kiton, and Santoni. They also offer custom tailor-ing onsite. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JGant D-3, Pärnu mnt 10, tel. (+372) 628 22 11, [email protected], www.gant.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JG-Star Raw D-3, Pärnu mnt 8/Väike-Karja 9, tel. (+372) 641 01 16, [email protected], www.g-star.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JGuess C-4, Rotermanni 5 (Rotermanni quarter), tel. (+372) 666 77 62, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at: D-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 15 12. Open 09:00 - 21:00.Haust Collection D-3, Väike-Karja 7, tel. (+372) 553 90 16, www.haust.no. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Hugo Boss D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 06 10, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JJack & Jones C-3, Viru 13/15, De La Gardie shopping centre, tel. (+372) 631 47 66, www.jackjones.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JULacoste Boutique E-2, Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 664 50 09, [email protected], www.lacoste.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.Lindex C-3, Viru 13/15, De La Gardie shopping centre, tel. (+372) 615 55 40, www.lindex.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JUMarina Rinaldi C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 56 66 38 46, [email protected], www.marinarinaldi.com. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.MaxMara D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 14, [email protected]. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Nju Butiik D-2, Harju 5, tel. (+372) 55 69 28 69, [email protected], www.nju.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JNolita Vintage C-3, Uus 3, tel. (+372) 58 10 84 74, [email protected], www.nolitavintage.com. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Replay G-3, Narva mnt. 5, Foorum centre, tel. (+372) 664 04 31. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

SudioT C-4, Lai 36, tel. (+372) 641 19 46, www.studiot.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Versace E-2, Roosikrantsi 23, tel. (+372) 648 80 00, www.versace.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.Zara C-4, Viru Centre, Viru Väljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 13 66. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Sfäär Store B-4, Mere pst 6e, tel. (+372) 56 99 22 25, www.sfaar.ee/store/. This shop features brands such as; Acne Jeans, Nudie Jeans, Rubber Ducks, Vasuma Eyewear, Canada Goose, EMU and a good selection of fine

wines.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. JK

shopping


85shopping

Vivian Vau Shoe Salon C-2, Ratas-kaevu 2, tel. (+372) 641 64 40, [email protected], www.vivianvau.ee. The exquisite shoes at Vivian Vau are imported mainly from Italy and Spain and are crafted

from the finest materials and leathers. Sizes from 34 - 45. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Knits & LinenGlenfield C-3, Viru 10, tel. (+372) 631 39 02. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.Hansa Lina C-2, Dunkri 1, tel. (+372) 644 03 94. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. JJolleri Handicraft Chamber (Käsitöökamber) D-3, Müürivahe 11, tel. (+372) 648 45 88, [email protected], www.jollery-bunny.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. JKalliver C-3, Müürivahe 31, tel. (+372) 646 44 71. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. JLino C-2, Pikk 12, tel. (+372) 646 20 12. QOpen 10.00 - 18:00.Maret-M C-3, Viru 20, tel. (+372) 644 02 21. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JRewill C-3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 33 62, [email protected], www.rewill.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. JVeTa C-2, Pikk 6, tel. (+372) 646 41 40, www.veta.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. 644 02 82. Open 10:00 - 19:00. JVilla-Nella C-2, Kinga 6. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. J

Leather & FurDon & Donna D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 641 42 92. Leather and fur. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JLinda C-3, Väike-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 644 91 71. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JTunor C-3, Aia 10a, tel. (+372) 631 33 37. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Kroonu Ait H-4, Gonsiori 28, tel. (+372) 601 01 64, [email protected], www.kroonuait.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Military Antique C-2, Lai 4, tel. (+372) 641 26 06. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

Military memorabilia

Second handHumana G-3, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 669 13 23, www.humanae.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

ShoesABC King C-3, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 13 85, [email protected], www.abcking.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Galerii D-3, Väike-Karja 6, tel. (+372) 641 80 88. QO-pen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Rem King D-3, Väike-Karja 7, tel. (+372) 631 38 59, www.rem.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J



DelicatessensDaVinci's Italian wine shop and delicates-sen C-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 641 61 77, [email protected], www.davincifood.ee. Here you can find all the finest ingredients from the mother country as well as some fantastic coffees and wines. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. JIl Gallo Nero C-2, Rataskaevu 4, tel. (+372) 646 21 07, [email protected]. This place is so Ital-ian you may forget you're in Tallinn. Expect all the best Italian wares, wines and converstaion. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. J

GrocersKolmjalg (the Everything Store) C-2, Pikk 11, tel. (+372) 631 15 11. QOpen 24hrs.Rimi C-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 644 38 55, [email protected], www.rimi.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.Solaris Food Shop D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 663 13 30, [email protected], www.solaris.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.Stockmann H-3, Liivalaia 53, tel. (+372) 633 95 39, fax (+372) 633 95 56, www.stockmann.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. ULKTallinna Kaubamaja D-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 667 31 00, [email protected], www.kaubamaja.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.Westman E-2, Pärnu mnt 19, tel. (+372) 660 51 82. Q Open 24hrs.

FoodPlease note that alcohol sales in Tallinn are prohib-ited from 22:00 until 10:00.

Bakhos C-3, Aia 5b, tel. (+372) 55 62 56 05, www.bakhos.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.Drink Shop D-3, Müürivahe 15. QOpen 12:00 - 10:00. Closed Sun. JIn Vino Veritas C-2, Lai 6, tel. (+372) 641 84 40, [email protected], www.invinoveritas.ee. Wine shop. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.Liviko C-3, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 683 77 45, [email protected], www.alcostore.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 683 77 40, Open 10:00 - 20:00.R-Alko C-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. (+372) 641 98 70. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

Wine shopsBestwine C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 622 89 76, [email protected], www.bestwine.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JFinewine E-2, Pärnu mnt. 30, tel. (+372) 622 87 00, www.finewine.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Negossiant B-3, Lai 42, tel. (+372) 642 40 37, [email protected], www.negossiant.ee. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JOld Cognac B-2, Pikk 31 (inside antique shop), tel. (+372) 631 27 51, [email protected], www.old-cognac.com. Not only do they have old cognac as the name suggests, you can also find a wide selection of fine French wines as well. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Alcohol

MarketsBalti Jaama Turg B-1, Kopli 1, tel. (+372) 644 61 28. A throwback to the Soviet-era, the market area behind the train station is where locals go to get spare parts, used clothes and sides of beef. This is one of our favourites for local colour but enter at your own risk. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.Central Market (Keskturg) H-3/4, Keldrimäe 9, tel. (+372) 660 63 04. A popular destination for fresh food items. Also has clothing and other assorted 'treasures'. Take tram N°2 or N°4 from the centre towards Ülemiste, make sure to get off at the Keskturg stop. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00.Fish Market F-2, Kalaranna 1, www.tallinnakalaturg.ee. Located on the aptly named 'Fish Beach' street, this speciality fish market has everything from shark fins to monk fish. We don't suggest taking anything from this market home as a souvenir though - your fellow passengers thank-you in advance. Q Open only on Saturdays 10:00 - 16:00.Knit Market (Sweater Wall) C-3, corner of Viru and Müürivahe. Little old ladies sell their knitwear here along the Old Town wall. Shopping here is almost a tradition for visitors. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.Mere Art Market C-4, Mere pst. 1. Lots of knits on sale in the yard adjacent the tram stop. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.Merekeskus A-4, Mere pst 10, tel. (+372) 644 91 38, [email protected]. Cheap, tacky goods are sold here, mainly to Finnish day-trippers. Pick up some question-able underwear or 'genuine' CD. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00.Sadama Turg G-3, Sadama 25-4, [email protected], www.sadamaturg.ee. Various Estonian handi-crafts and food items can be found at this new market in the port area. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

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87shopping

Ülemiste Center I-5, Suur-Sőjamäe 4, next to Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 603 49 99, [email protected], www.ulemiste.ee. This gigantic, two-level shopping mall next to Tallinn's airport has hands-down the most retail space of any mall in town. For serious shoppers, it's worth the short trip from the centre. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Ülemiste Center

Viru Keskus (Viru Centre) C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 14 44, fax (+372) 610 14 01, [email protected],

www.virukeskus.com. This 30,000m2 shopping and dining complex a large, but very classy addition to down-town's commercial scene. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. JULFKW

Solaris D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (372) 615 51 00, [email protected], www.solaris.ee. Although more of an

all-in-one entertainment complex than purely a shopping centre, Solaris does have a reasonable amount of shops, often higher end, where you can leave your money in lieu of goods. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Shops open 10:00 - 21:00. Restaurants open 10:00 - 23:00. JUFLK

Stockmann H-3, Liivalaia 53, tel. 633 95 39, w w w . s t o c k -

mann.ee. The local branch of Finland's premiere depart-ment store is a somewhat high-end affair. Just about ev-erything you can imagine is sold in the five-storey complex. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. ULKW

Shopping centresDe La Gardie C-3, Viru 13, tel. (+372) 681 80 78, [email protected]. Centrally located with a variety of smaller shops and some bigger brand names too. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JUKristiine Keskus H-1, Endla 45, tel. (+372) 665 03 41, www.kristiinekeskus.ee. A large, modern mall just outside the city centre. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00. Prisma grocery store open 08:00 - 23:00. ULKWNorde Centrum G-3, Lootsi 7, tel. (+372) 669 89 00. A medium-sized place near the port, convenient if you're leaving by ship. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. LWRotermanni Kaubamaja B-4, Rotermanni 5/ Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 626 42 00, [email protected], www.rotermannikaubamaja.ee. Recently opened shopping centre in Tallinn's newly developed and renovated Rotermanni district houses mainly upscale international brands. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JULSadaMarket A-4, Sadama 6/8, tel. (+372) 661 45 50, [email protected], www.sadamarket.ee. Certainly the most tacky of shopping centres, this one stocks mainly Chinese or other Asian 'originals'. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.Sikupilli H-4, Tartu mnt 87, tel. (+372) 605 95 00, [email protected], www.sikupilli.ee. Located quite close to the airport, this small shopping centre has a food-store, electronics shops and just enough fashion outlets to keep you smar tly dressed. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Supermarket open 08:00 - 23:00. Restaurants 08:00 - 22:00. K

Tallinna Kaubamaja D-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 667 31 00, [email protected], www.kaubamaja.ee. Tallinn's giant, home-grown department store dates back to 1960, but has done a great job of keeping pace with the times. A glass gallery connects it to the Viru Keskus, where it has additional departments. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. JUKWThe Foorum Centre G-3, Narva mnt. 5, [email protected], www.foorumshopping.ee. A collection of high end shops, located at street level, in a beautifully designed building. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. JKWW Passaaž C-3/4, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 00. A three-storey cluster of mainly slightly odd fashion boutiques in Old Town. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JK


88 Business direCtory Business direCtory

Koopia Kolm C-3, Vana-Viru 3, tel. (+372) 627 51 60, [email protected], www.koopia3.ee. Pho-tocopying, office supplies and other services. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: Rävala pst 8, tel 660 4702, 50 31 720, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Office Supplies

AccountantsAudest H-2, Liivalaia 5-65, tel. (+372) 646 32 67, fax (+372) 646 14 25, [email protected], www.audest.ee.Deloitte E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel. (+372) 640 65 00, fax (+372) 640 65 03, [email protected], www.deloitte.ee.HansaConsult G-3, Ahtri 6, tel. (+372) 661 64 17, fax (+372) 661 64 20, [email protected], www.hansaconsult.ee.PricewaterhouseCoopers E-2, Pärnu mnt 15, tel. (+372) 614 18 00, fax (+372) 614 19 00, [email protected], www.pwc.ee.

BanksKrediidipank G-3, Narva mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 669 09 21, fax (+372) 669 09 54, [email protected], www.krediidipank.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Marfin Bank E-2, Pärnu mnt 12, tel. (+372) 680 25 00, fax (+372) 680 25 01, [email protected], www.marfinbank.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Nordea G-3, Hobujaama 4, tel. (+372) 628 33 00/1772, fax (+372) 628 32 01, [email protected], www.nordea.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Sampo Pank G-3, Narva mnt. 11, tel. (+372) 680 08 00, fax (+372) 675 31 01, [email protected], www.sampopank.ee. QOpen 09.00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.SEB H-3, Tornimäe 2, tel. (+372) 665 51 00, fax (+372) 665 51 03, [email protected], www.seb.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at: E-2, Roosi-krantsi 2, Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat-Sun.Swedbank H-2, Liivalaia 8, tel. (+372) 631 03 10, fax (+372) 631 04 10, [email protected], www.swedbank.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: H-3, Rävala pst 5. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun.Tallinn Business Bank (Tallinna Äripank) D-4, Estonia pst 5a, tel. (+372) 668 80 60, fax (+372) 668 80 65, [email protected], www.tbb.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at: C-3, Vana-Viru 7. Open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00.

Business connectionsAmerican Chamber of Commerce D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 22, fax (+372) 631 05 21, [email protected], www.amcham.ee.British Estonian Chamber of Commerce G-3, Ahtri 6A, tel. (+372) 56 622 623/(+44) 20 32 395 779, fax (+372) 611 69 54, [email protected], www.becc.ee.Enterprise Estonia H-4, Lasnamäe 2, tel. (+372) 627 97 00, fax (+372) 627 97 01, [email protected], www.eas.ee. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Estonian Chamber of Commerce C-1, Toom-Kooli 17, tel. (+372) 604 00 60, fax (+372) 604 00 61, [email protected], www.koda.ee.German Industry and Commerce in Estonia B-2, Suurtüki 4b, tel. (+372) 627 69 40, fax (+372) 627 69 50, [email protected], www.ahk-balt.org.Swedish Chamber of Commerce D-2, Rüütli 9 ( Swedish St. Michael's Church in Tallinn), tel. (+372) 501 98 13, [email protected], www.swedish-chamber.ee.

Conference centresEstonian National Library Conference Centre E-1, Tőnismägi 2, tel. (+372) 630 72 62/(+372) 631 14 16, fax (+372) 631 12 02, [email protected], www.nlib.ee/konverentsikeskus.Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia Conference Center E-4, Liivalaia 33, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, tel. (+372) 631 53 14, fax (+372) 669 06 91, [email protected], www.radissonblu.com/olumpiahotel-tallinn.Sokos Hotel Viru Conference Centre C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 93 00, fax (+372) 680 92 36, [email protected], www.sokoshotels.fi/ee.

Business direCtory


89Business direCtory

Danish Cultural Institute C-3, Vene 14, tel./fax (+372) 646 63 73, [email protected], www.dankultur.ee.Estonian Institute D-2, Suur-Karja 14, tel. (+372) 631 43 55, fax (+372) 631 43 56, [email protected], www.einst.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Finnish Institute C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 631 39 17, fax (+372) 631 39 52, [email protected], www.finst.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.French Cultural Centre C-2, Kuninga 4, tel. (+372) 627 11 91, fax (+372) 627 11 98, [email protected], www.ccf.ee. Library, resource centre and cultural events. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.German Cultural Institute/Goethe-Institute Tallinn B-2, Suurtüki 4b, tel. (+372) 627 69 60, fax (+372) 627 69 62, [email protected], www.goethe.de/ins/ee/tal/deindex.htm. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00; 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.GLIK (Gay and Lesbian Info Centre) , tel. (+372) 645 45 45, fax (+372) 645 45 50, [email protected], www.gay.ee. Centre is currently closed, however, they can field questions by e-mail or over the telephone.Hungarian Institute C-1, Piiskopi 2, tel./fax (+372) 644 08 17, [email protected], www.unginst.org.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Russian Cultural Centre C-4, Mere pst 5, tel. (+372) 644 58 65, fax (+372) 641 83 01, [email protected], www.venekeskus.ee.The British Council D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. (+372) 625 77 88, fax (+372) 625 77 99, [email protected], www.britishcouncil.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Cultural centres

In addition to internet services most of these com-panies also offer cable television and even land-line telephone.

Elion G-3, Endla 16, tel. (+372) 165/(+372) 631 33 22, [email protected], www.elion.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Elisa C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 660 06 00, [email protected], www.elisa.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Starman E-3, Rävala p st 19, tel. (+372) 1770/(+372) 677 99 00, [email protected], www.starman.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Tele2 C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 686 68 66, fax (+372) 686 68 77, [email protected], www.tele2.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Internet service providersLawyersLepik & Luhaäär C-2, Niguliste 4, tel. (+372) 630 64 60, fax (+372) 630 64 63, [email protected], www.lawin.ee.Raidla Lejins & Norcous E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel. (+372) 640 71 70, fax (+372) 640 71 71, [email protected], www.rln.ee.Sorainen E-2, Pärnu mnt 15, tel. (+372) 640 09 00, fax (+372) 640 09 01, [email protected], www.sorainen.ee.Tark & Co E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel. (+372) 611 09 00, fax (+372) 611 09 11, [email protected], www.tarkco.com.

NotariesAnne Saaber H-3, Maakri 23a, tel. (+372) 666 20 10, fax (+372) 666 20 11, [email protected], www.saaber.net. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Wed 09:30 - 18:00, Fri 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Heli Mőttus E-3, Estonia pst. 15, tel. (+372) 610 39 30, fax (+372) 610 39 34, [email protected], www.notar.ee/18383. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Piret Press G/H-3, Rotermanni 8, tel. (+372) 664 52 77, fax (+372) 664 52 66, [email protected], www.notar.ee/18383. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Mon, Wed 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Tiit Sepp H-3, Rävala pst. 3, tel. (+372) 699 63 00, fax (+372) 699 63 01, [email protected], www.notarnet.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estateArco Vara G-3, Jõe 2b, tel. (+372) 614 46 00, fax (+372) 614 46 01, [email protected], www.arcovara.ee.Baltic Property Expert G-3, Ahtri 6a, tel. (+372) 626 42 50/(+372) 626 42 51, [email protected], www.bpe.ee. QOpen 8:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Goodson & Red G-3, Jõe 5, tel. (+372) 666 16 50/(+44) 208 816 81 74, [email protected], www.goodsonandred.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.Majaekspert C-3, Viru 21, tel. (+372) 627 04 90, fax (+372) 646 62 12, [email protected], www.majaek-spert.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Ober-Haus G-4, Narva mnt. 53, tel. (+372) 665 97 00, fax (+372) 665 97 01, [email protected], www.ober-haus.com.Pindi Kinnisvara H-3, Tartu mnt. 16, tel. (+372) 610 39 00/(+372) 1918, fax (+372) 610 39 01, [email protected], www.pindi.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Rime Kinnisvara I-2, Tatari 64, tel. (+372) 683 77 77, fax (+372) 683 77 88, [email protected], www.rime.ee.

Translators & InterpretersConnectus G-3, Ahtri 8, tel. (+372) 641 18 00, fax (+372) 631 38 32, [email protected], www.connectus.ee.Interlex Translation Bureau D-4, P. Süda 14-2, tel. (+372) 630 96 60, fax (+372) 630 96 61, [email protected], www.interlex.ee.Luisa Tőlkebüroo H-3, Ahtri 6a, tel. (+372) 626 42 82/(+372) 626 42 84, fax (+372) 626 42 80, [email protected], www.luisa.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Pangloss H-4, Tartu mnt 61-10, tel. (+372) 603 17 70, fax (+372) 601 49 99, [email protected], www.pangloss.ee.

Premium Translation Agency I-2, Pärnu mnt 102, tel. (+372) 688 88 00, fax (+372) 688 88 01, [email protected], www.premium.ee.Technical Translation Centre E-2, Pärnu mnt 23, tel. (+372) 661 37 38, fax (+372) 661 37 39, english.translationco.eu, [email protected].


90 lifestyle direCtory health

Centre), tel. (+372) 56 68 45 20, [email protected], www.okosalong.ee. Offering ecological beauty treatments and natural beautycare products. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.

SpaLife (Shnelli Day Spa) B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 01 60, [email protected], www.spalife.ee. Hair & beauty salon and a spa. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Dry cleanersEcoclean H-3, Liivalaia 53 (Stockmann 5th floor), tel. (+372) 668 04 82, [email protected], www.ecoclean.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.Kati Koduabi OÜ C-3, Uus 9, tel. (+372) 631 45 66. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Sol Eesti H-3, Maakri 23, tel. (+372) 661 20 75, [email protected], www.sol.ee. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

LaundrettesSeebimull H-2, Liivalaia 7, tel. (+372) 643 33 33, www.alexpress.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Sol Eesti H-3, Maakri 23, tel. (+372) 661 20 75, [email protected], www.sol.ee. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Money transferMoneyGram (Monex Exchange) C-3, Viru 23, tel. (+372) 644 01 09, [email protected], www.monex-money.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JWestern Union (Tallinn Post Office) C-4, Narva mnt 1, tel. (+372) 617 70 33/(+372) 1661, [email protected], www.post.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at: C-3, Viru 20, tel. 627 64 45. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Photo servicesFotoluks C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 13 17, [email protected], www.fotoluks.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JFotomeister D-4, Rävala 8, tel. (+372) 660 45 38, [email protected], www.fotomeister.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J

Shoe repairFix-Serv C-3, Aia 3 (WW Passaz), tel. (+372) 627 12 34. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Beauty care

Day Spa D-2, Vana-Posti 4, tel. (+372) 641 87 01, [email protected], www.dayspa.ee. Beauty salon and spa. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.De la Gardie Beauty Parlour C-3, Viru 13/15, tel. (+372) 631 47 49, [email protected], www.dlg.ee. Hairstyling and facial treatments. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.Gersi Stiilistuudio G/H-3, Tartu mnt. 2 (City Plaza), tel. (+372) 681 80 80/(+372) 641 91 81, [email protected], www.gersi.ee. Personal styling service. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Meriton Wellness Spa G-2, Paldsiki mnt 4, tel. (+372) 628 82 21, [email protected], www.meriton-hotels.com. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. DOrganic Beauty & Natural Healing arts (Öko-salong) B-4, Rotermanni 5/ Roseni 10 (Rotermann

Kalev Spa Wellness Centre B-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 50, [email protected], www.kalevspa.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 17.00. JUFLDCW

Day Spa

Babor SPA G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel. (+372) 664 04 88, [email protected], www.baborspa.ee. Considered to be one of the top Day Spas in the city, Babor will pamper both the inner and outer you. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J

Roosikrantsi Beauty Salon H-3, Gonsiori 2 (Kaubamaja ground floor), tel. (+372) 669 13 00, [email protected], www.roosike.ee. This

beauty salon offers loads of refreshing and revitalising treatments for the weary traveller. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JL

lifestyle direCtory


91health

Need help now? The Tallinn First Aid hotline tel. 697 11 45, can provide treatment advice in English, and if need be, direct you to the appropriate hospital. If you need cough syrup at 03:00, try the round-the-clock Tõnismäe pharmacy (see pharmacies). For dramatic situations that require and ambulance, call tel. 112. Emergency opera-tors speak English.

Urgent care

Hedone C/D-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 631 34 04, [email protected], www.hedone.ee. A different kind of escape from

the brutal Baltic weather is this sophisticated, oriental massage club. Slip on a comfy robe, sink into a deep sofa, take a puff on the water pipe and get wet in the Jacuzzi that dominates the main room. Before you ask, here 'mas-sage' means just that, though the hands-on staff wear alluring belly-dancers' outfits. There are several varieties of massages available. Reservation is recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. JX

Massage clubMost travellers' biggest health concern is the quality of the water. Well, here in Estonia depending on the location, the taste can take some getting used to, but we've been drinking the water for years without any adverse effects. In most areas, however, the water is remarkably hard (i.e. high in mineral content), which means it takes a lot longer to rinse the shampoo out of your hair. Medical services are fairly cheap in Estonia. Though the quality of service has improved dramatically over the past decade, most Western residents still go to Finland or elsewhere when a major operation is needed. Interestingly, the number of foreigners coming to Estonia for cheaper cosmetic surgery and dental work is on the rise. For a less extreme - and less painful - type of bargain, you can consider getting your perscription glasses made here.

Clinics & HospitalsFertilitas Private Hospital Kaluri tee 5a, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 605 96 05/(+372) 605 96 00, fax (+372) 605 96 99, [email protected], www.fertilitas.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Also at: E-4, Kaupmehe 4, 660 40 72, 646 35 39. Open Mon-Fri 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Regional Hospital of North Estonia - Mustamäe block J.Sütiste tee 19, tel. (+372) 697 13 00/(+372) emergency 697 14 00, [email protected], www.regionaalhaigla.ee.Tallinn Central Hospital H-3, Ravi 18, tel. (+372) 1900/(+372) 622 70 70, 620 70 40 (emergency care), [email protected], www.itk.ee.Tallinn Children's Hospital H-3, Tervise 28, tel. (+372) 697 71 13/(+372) 697 72 00, fax (+372) 697 71 43, [email protected], www.lastehaigla.ee.Tallinn Magdaleena Hospital & Policlinics I-2, Pärnu mnt. 104, tel. (+372) 622 7070/(+372) 1900, www.itk.ee.

DentistsBaltic Medical Partners H-3, Tartu mnt 32, tel. (+372) 601 05 50, [email protected], www.bmp.ee. Private clinic.Biolase H-3, Tartu mnt 28, tel. (+372) 641 86 25/(+372) 56 49 36 96, [email protected], www.biolase.ee. Private clinic offering laser whitening.Eurodent G-3, Lootsi 3A, tel. (+372) 611 55 51, [email protected], www.eurodent.ee. Private clinic staffed by dentists trained in Turku, Finland. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Tallinna Hambapolikliinik E-1, Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 611 92 30/(+372) 611 91 87, [email protected], www.hambapol.ee. Large, state clinic. Call here in an emergency. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.Terve Hammas H-4, Faehlmanni 5, tel. (+372) 646 14 93, [email protected], www.terveham-mas.ee. English-speaking service.

MassageAurea Massage Studio G-3, Narva mnt 7d, tel. (+372) 669 67 73/(+372) 569 37 677, [email protected], www.aurea.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Kaarli Massaaži Keskus H-2, Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 611 91 14/(+372) 515 29 99, [email protected], www.kaarlimassaaz.ee. Q NTervisekeskus (Health Centre) C-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. (+372) 644 08 15. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.Thai Rose Spa C-4, Vana-Viru 13, tel. (+372) 625 89 10/(+372) 56 63 40 00, [email protected], www.thairose.ee. Thai massage performed by specialists from Thailand. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11.00 - 20:00.

OpticiansEagle Vision D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. (+372) 627 01 10, [email protected], www.eagle-vision.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Instrumentarium C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 610 13 61, [email protected], www.instru.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Lens Optika G-3, Narva mnt 5 (Foorum Centre), tel. (+372) 664 04 40, [email protected], www.lensoptika.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.Norman Optika H-3, Rävala pst 6, tel. (+372) 646 71 23, fax (+372) 646 71 25, [email protected], www.normanoptika.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Reval Optika G-3, Narva mnt 2, tel. (+372) 660 19 16, [email protected], www.revaloptika.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Tallinna Optika C-3, Aia 3/Vana-Viru 10 (WW Passaaž), tel. (+372) 627 12 09, [email protected], www.opti.ee. QO-pen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

PharmaciesKoduapteek Apteek 1 C-3/4, Aia 7 (Rimi supermar-ket), tel. (+372) 648 41 99, www.apteek1.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.Tőnismäe Apteek E-1, Tőnismägi 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 82, [email protected], www.farmacia.ee. Q Open 24hrs.Ülikooli apteek D-4, Kaubamaja 3 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 669 13 80, [email protected], www.ya.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.



92 offiCials street register

EmbassiesAustria H-3, Vambola 6, tel. (+372) 627 87 40/(+372) 627 87 45, fax (+372) 631 43 65, [email protected], www.austrianembassy.ee.Belarus J-2, Magdaleena 3, section b, tel. (+372) 651 55 00/(+372) 655 80 01, [email protected], www.estonia.belembassy.org.Belgium C-2, Rataskaevu 2, tel. (+372) 627 41 00, fax (+372) 644 01 22, [email protected], www.diplomatie.be/tallinn/.Canada C-1, Toomkooli 13, 2nd floor, tel. (+372) 627 33 11/(+372) 627 33 10 (Visas), fax (+372) 627 33 12, [email protected], www.canada.ee.China G-5, Narva mnt. 98, tel. (+372) 601 58 30/(+372) 601 58 31, fax (+372) 601 58 33, [email protected], www.chinaembassy.ee.Czech G-4, Lahe 4, tel. (+372) 627 44 00/(+372) 627 44 01, fax (+372) 631 47 16, [email protected], www.mzv.cz/tallinn.Denmark D-1, Wismari 5, tel. (+372) 630 64 00, fax (+372) 630 64 21, [email protected], www.ambtallinn.um.dk.Finland C-1, Kohtu 4, tel. (+372) 610 32 00, fax (+372) 610 32 81, [email protected], www.finland.ee.France H-2, Toom-Kuninga 20, tel. (+372) 616 16 10/(+372) 616 16 18 (Visas), fax (+372) 616 16 20, [email protected], www.ambafrance-ee.org.Georgia C-4, Viru väljak 2 (Metro Plaza), tel. (+372) 698 85 90, fax (+372) 641 30 00, [email protected], [email protected] H-2, Toom-Kuninga 11, tel. (+372) 627 53 00/(+372) 627 53 03 (Visas), fax (+372) 627 53 04, [email protected], www.tallinn.diplo.de.Greece D-3, Pärnu mnt 12, 2nd floor, tel. (+372) 640 35 60, fax (+372) 640 35 61, [email protected] G-5, Narva mnt 122, tel. (+372) 605 18 80, fax (+372) 605 40 88, [email protected], www.mfa.gov.hu/kulkepviselet/EE/ee/.Ireland C-3, Vene 2, 2nd floor, tel. (+372) 681 18 88, fax (+372) 681 18 89, [email protected], www.embas-syofireland.ee.Italy C-3, Vene 2, 3rd floor, tel. (+372) 627 61 60, fax (+372) 631 13 70, [email protected], www.ambtallinn.esteri.it.Japan D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 31/(+372) 631 05 32, fax (+372) 631 05 33, www.ee.emb-japan.go.jp.Latvia E-1, Tőnismägi 10, tel. (+372) 627 78 50/(+372) 627 78 65 (Visas), fax (+372) 627 78 55, [email protected], [email protected], [email protected] B-3, Uus 15, tel. (+372) 616 49 90/(+372) 616 49 92, fax (+372) 641 20 13, [email protected], ee.mfa.lt.Monaco C-4, Viru väljak 3 (Nordic Hotel Forum), tel. (+372) 503 88 85, [email protected] C-1, Rahukohtu 4 -I, tel. (+372) 680 55 00, fax (+372) 680 55 01, [email protected], www.netherlandsembassy.ee.Norway D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 627 10 00, fax (+372) 627 10 01, [email protected], www.norra.ee.Poland C-2, Suur-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 627 82 06/(+372) 627 82 08 (Visas), fax (+372) 644 52 21, [email protected], www.tallinn.polemb.net.Portugal C-1, Kohtu 10, tel. (+372) 611 74 68, fax (+372) 611 74 67, [email protected] C-2, Pikk 19, tel. (+372) 646 41 75/(+372) 646 41 69, fax (+372) 646 41 78, [email protected], www.rusemb.ee.Spain H-3, Liivalaia 13/15, 6th floor, tel. (+372) 667 66 51/(+372) 667 66 58, fax (+372) 631 37

67, [email protected], www.mae.es/embajadas/tallin.Sweden B-3, Pikk 28, tel. (+372) 640 56 00, fax (+372) 640 56 95, [email protected], [email protected], www.sweden.ee.Turkey G-4, Narva mnt. 30, tel. (+372) 627 28 80, fax (+372) 627 28 85, [email protected], tallinn.emb.mfa.gov.tr.UK H-2, Wismari 6, tel. (+372) 667 47 00, fax (+372) 667 47 55, [email protected], ukinestonia.fco.gov.uk.Ukraine G-4, Lahe 6, tel. (+372) 601 58 15/(+372) 601 58 35, fax (+372) 601 58 16, [email protected]/estonia, www.mfa.gov.ua/estonia.USA E-3/4, Kentmanni 20, tel. (+372) 668 81 00, fax (+372) 668 82 65, [email protected], www.usemb.ee.

Government & StateEstonian Foreign Ministry E-4, Islandi väljak 1, tel. (+372) 637 70 00, fax (+372) 637 70 99, [email protected], www.vm.ee.Government C-1, Rahukohtu 3, tel. (+372) 693 55 55, fax (+372) 693 55 54, [email protected], www.valitsus.ee.Parliament C/D-1, Lossi plats 1a, tel. (+372) 631 63 31, fax (+372) 631 63 34, [email protected], www.riigikogu.ee.President Toomas Hendrik Ilves G-5, Weizenbergi 39, tel. (+372) 631 62 02, fax (+372) 631 62 50, [email protected], www.president.ee.Prime Minister Andrus Ansip C-1, Rahukohtu 3, tel. (+372) 693 57 01/(+372) 693 55 55, fax (+372) 693 55 54, [email protected], www.peaminister.ee.

International organisationsEuropean Union Information Centre G-3, Rävala 4, 1st floor, entrance from Laikmaa str., tel. (+372) 626 44 00/(+372) 626 44 01, [email protected], www.euroopaliit.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.International Organisation for Migration (IOM) G-3, Jõe 9, tel. (+372) 611 63 66, fax (+372) 611 63 67, [email protected], www.iom.fi.Nordic Council of Ministers B-2, Lai 29, tel. (+372) 627 31 00, fax (+372) 627 31 10, [email protected], www.norden.ee.Open Estonia Foundation D-4, Estonia pst. 5a, tel. (+372) 631 37 91, fax (+372) 631 37 96, [email protected], www.oef.org.ee.UNICEF G-1, Auna 6, tel. (+372) 600 03 00, fax (+372) 600 03 05, [email protected], www.unicef.ee.World Health Organisation (WHO) H-4, Gonsiori 29, tel. (+372) 626 93 50, fax (+372) 626 93 53, [email protected], ee.euro.who.int.

MunicipalityCity Centre Government B-2, Nunne 18, tel. (+372) 645 72 00, fax (+372) 645 72 49, [email protected], www.tallinn.ee/kesklinn.Mayor Edgar Savisaar D-2, Vabaduse väljak 7, tel. (+372) 640 41 00, fax (+372) 640 43 27, [email protected], www.tallinn.ee.Tallinn City Council C-4, Vana-Viru 12, tel. (+372) 694 32 01, fax (+372) 694 32 59, [email protected], www.tallinn.ee.Tallinn City Government E-2, Vabaduse väljak 7, tel. (+372) 640 41 41, fax (+372) 640 43 27, [email protected], www.tallinn.ee.

offiCials


93street register

Aarde G-1Adamsoni H-2Ahtri G-3Aia C/D-4Aida B-2Alevi J-2Alle G-5Allika H-3Ao H-2Apteegi C-3Aru F/G-1Asula I/J-2Asunduse H-5Auli J-1/2Auna G-1Auru J-3Bensiini G-5Bremeni käik C-3Dunkri D-2Eha H-2Endla H-1/2Erika F-1Estonia pst E-3/4Faehlmanni H-4Falgi D-1Filmi G-5Filtri I-4Gildi H-4Gonsiori H-3/5Gümnaasiumi C-2Haigru I-1Hane J-1Haraka J-2Hariduse H-3Härjapea G-1Harju D/E-2Hauka I-2Heina F-1/G-2Hermanni H-4Herne I-3Hõbeda H-4Hobusepea C-2 Imanta H-4Inseneri C-4Invaliidi H/I-3Jahu F-3Jakobi H-4Jakobsoni H-4Järvevana I-4/J-3Joa G-6Jõe G-4Juhkentali H-3/I-4Kaarli pst E-1/2Käbliku I-1Kadri G-6Kadriorg G-5Kaera F-1Kai G-3Kajaka J-1Kalasadama F-3Kalevi F-2Kalju F-2

Kannikese H-1Kännu I/J-1Käo J-1/2Karjavärava D-3Karu G-4Kasvu H-1Katariina käik C-3Kauba I-2/J-3Kauka H-3Kauna I-3Kaupmehe H-3Kauri I-1Keemia H-1Keldrimäe H-4Kentmanni H-3K-Kalamaja B-1Kesk-Ameerika I-2Kesk-Sõjamäe J-6Kevade H-2Kibuvitsa H-1Killustiku H-5Kinga C-2Kiriku C/D-1Kiriku põik C-1Kiriku plats D-1Kivimurru I-5Kodu I-3Kohtu D-2Koidu H/I-2Koidula G-4/H-5Köie F-2Kolde G-1Köleri G-4/5Kollane H-4Komandandi E-1Komeedi H-2Kooli B-2Kopli B-1Koskla H/I-1Kotka I/J-2Kotkapoja I-2Kotzebue A-1/2Kreutzwaldi H-4Kristiina I-2Kuhlbarsi H-4Kullassepa D-2Kullerkupu H-1Kulli J-1Kunderi H-4Kungla F-2Kuninga D-2Kure J-1Kuristiku G-6Laagna G/H-6Laboratooriumi B-2Lagle I-2Lahe G-5Lai B-3/C-2Lasnamäe G/H-6Lastekodu H/I-4Laulupeo H-4Lauteri H-3

Lehe I/J-1Lembitu H-3Lennujaama I-5Lennuki H-3Liblika I-1Liivalaia H-3/4Liivamäe H-4Lille H-1Linda G-2Lindamägi H-2Linnu tee J-1Lootsi G-4Lõkke H-2Lõokese J-2Lubja H-4Luha I-2Luige I-1Luise H-2Luste F-1Lühike jalg D-2Madara H-1/2Mäekalda G/H-5Magasini H/I-3Magdaleena J-2Maisi G-1Majaka H/I-5Malmi G-2Maneezhi G-3Mardi H-4Mehaanika H/I-1Mere A/D-4Metalli H-1Mineraali H-1Mooni H/I-1Mulla G/H-1Mündi C-2Munga C-3Muti J-1Müürivahe C-3/D-2Nafta G-4Narva G-3/6Nepi I-2Nevski D-2Niguliste D-2Niine A-1/2Nisu F/G-1Nõmme I-2Nunne C-1/2Odra H-4Olevimägi B/C-3Oleviste B-3Orase G-1Oru G-6Otsa E-3Paavli F-1Pae H-6Paekaare H-6Paekivi I-5Pagari B-3Paide J-2/3Paldiski H-2Pärna H-4

Pärnu I-3/J-2Peterburi I-5/6Petrooleumi G-4/5Piiskopi D-1Pikk B-3/C-2Pikk jalg D-2Pirita F-6/G-5Planeedi I-2Põhja A-4/B-2Poska G-5Preesi G-1Pronksi G/H-4Punane H-6Pühavaimu C-3Raekoja D-2Raekoja plats D-2Rahukohtu C-1Rannamäe B-1/4Rapla J-2Rataskaevu C-2Raua G/H-4Rävala H-3Ravi H-3Reinvaldi H-4Roheline aas H-5Rohu G-2Roopa H-2Roosikrantsi H-3Roseni B-4Rotermanni C-4Rukki F-1Rutu C-1Rüütli D/E-2Sadama G-3Saiakang C-2Sakala E-3Saku J-2Salme F-2Saturni I-2Saue G-2Sauna D-3Sõle G/H-1Sõpruse pst I/J-1Spordi I/J-2Staadioni H-4Süda H-3Sügise G-2Suitsu J-3Sulevimägi B-3Suur Kloostri C-2Suur Rannavärav A-3Suur-Ameerika H-2Suur-Karja D-3Suur-Laagri F-2Suurgildi C-2Suurtüki B-2Tartu H-4/J-6Tatari H/I-3Teatri square E-4Tedre I-1/J-2Tehnika G/I-2Telliskivi G-2/H-1

Terase G/H-4Tihase I-1Tina G-4Tobiase H-4Tolli B-3Tondi J-2Tõnismägi H-2Toom-Kooli D-1Toom-Rüütli C-2Toompea E-1Toompuiestee C-1Toonela I-4Tööstuse A-1Tormi G-5Town Hall D-2Tuha H-5Tulbi H-1Tulika H-1/I-2Turba G-6Türi J-2/3Tuukri G-4Tuulemäe I-5Tüve J-1Tuvi H-2Türnpu H-4Ülemiste tee I-5Uue maailma I-2Uus B/D-3Uus turg D-3Uus-Kalamaja F-2Uus-Sadama G-4Vabaduse v. E-2Vabriku G-2Väike-Ameerika I-2Väike-Karja D-3Väike-Kloostri C-2Väike-Laagri F-2Väike-Sõjamäe J-6Vaimu B/C-3Valli D-3Vana-Kalamaja B-1Vana turg D-3Vana-Lõuna I-3Vana-Viru D-4Vana-Posti D-2Vanaturu kael D-2Vase G-4Veerenni I/J-3Veetorni H-2Vene C-3Vesivärava G-4Videviku I-2Vilmsi G-4Vineeri I-3Virmalise I-2Viru D-3/4Võidujooksu G-6Võistluse I-4Voorimehe C-2Weidemanni G-4Weizenbergi G-5Wismari E-1


98 index16 Euro Hostel 30Admiral 33African Kitchen 32Alcatraz Club 60al Sole 40Amarillo 48Anneli Viik Handmade Chocolates Café 50Architectural Elements 70Argentiina 32Art Café 56Artemis Souvlaki 36Asian Aroma 32Asian Wok & Grill 32Astoria Palace 58Audioguide Old Town Tour 64Baby Back Ribs & BBQ 32Baieri Kelder 36Balalaika 47Balou 58Balthasar 36Baltic Hotel Imperial 26Baltic Hotel Vana Wiru 26Barons 24Basiilik 40Bayern&Böhmen Keller 54Bazar 46Bed & Breakfast Rex 30Beer House 36, 54Bern 26Bocca 40Bogapott 51Bonaparte 36Bonaparte Bistroo 51BonBon 58Bordoo 49Bossanova 38Braavo 29Briston Apartments 31Buongiorno 40Burlesque Club 60Butterfly Lounge 57C'est La Vie 36, 51Café Amigo 58Café Palace 38Café Pushkin 47Café Rose 50Cafe VS 52Café VS 37Can-Can Room 60Cantina Carramba 48Caravan Bistroo 58CatHouse 58Chakra 37Chedi 32Chicago 1933 52, 54China Inn 34Church of Our Lady of Kazan 65Church of the Transfig. of Our Lord 65City Bike Tours 64City Hotel 30City Hotel Portus 29City Hotel Tallinn 30Clarion Hotel Euroopa 26Clayhills Gastropub 44, 52Clazz 38, 54Club 360º 58Club Privé 58Coco 50Complemento 40Controvento 40Cubanita 46Danebrog Tower Café & Art Gallery 70Da Vinci/Café Leonardo 41Deja Vu 57

Depeche Mode 56Doll Museum 68Dome Church 62Dominic 38Dominican Monastery 63Drink Bar & Grill 54Dzingel 30Egoist 49Elevant 37Embassy Lounge 57Energia Kohvik 51Entrecôte Restaurant 38Epping Tower 70Estonian History Museum- Maarjamäe Palace 66Estonian Maritime Museum 66Estonian Open Air Museum 68Estonian Puppet Theatre 68Estonian War Museum 66Euphoria 30Fellini 41Feniks 60Fish & Wine 41Flying Kiwi Backpackers 30Gianni 41GIDIC Hostel Tallinn 30Gloria 49Gloria Veinikelder 56GoHotel Shnelli 29Golden Dragon 34Grillhaus Daube 44Health Museum 69Hedone 91Hellemani Kõrts 53Hellemann Tower Gallery 70Hell Hunt 52Hollywood 59Holy Spirit Church 63Hop-On Hop-Off City Tour 64Hopner 44Horisont Restaurant & Bar 49Hotel Economy 30Ipanema Rodizio 34Istanbul Café 58Josephine 51Juuksur 56Kadriorg Palace 71Kadriorg Park Museum & Library 71Kaerajaan 35Kaheksa 57Kalev Marzipan Room 66Kalev Spa Hotel 25Kalle Kusta 38Kapten Tenkeš 35Karja Café 50Karja Kelder 53Karl Friedrich 38Kärme Küülik 41Karoliina 54Kathmandu Hill 34Kehrwieder Chocolaterie 51KGB Headquarters 70Kiek in de Kök 62, 66Klafira 47Kohvik Julius 50Kohvik Komeet 51Kompressor 54Korsaar 48Korter 59Kõrts Inn Krug 53Krua 48Kuldse Notsu Kőrts 35Kuninga Restoran 49L'Ermitage 26

La Boheme 50La Bottega 41Lady's Shadow 60Le Château 48Levist väljas 56Lido 42Liisu Juures 35Limoncello 41Linnahall 70Lounge 24 57Mack Bar-B-Que 32Mademoiselle 50Madissoni Grill & Baar 44Maharaja 37Maiasmokk 50Maikrahv 44Masala 33Matilda 51Mekk 35Merchant's House 24Meriton Grand Conf. & Spa Hotel 25Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel 27Meriton Old Town Hotel 27Metropol 27Metsakalmistu Cemetary 71Miia-Milla-Manda 68Molly Malone's 52Mosaiik 51Munga Kelder 44Museum 33Museum of Est. Photography 67Musi 56Must Lammas 34My City Hotel 24nAnO 33Narva Kohvik 51Negossiant 56NEH 38Nevskij 47Niguliste Church - Museum 63Nimeta Baar 52Nordic Hotel Forum 27Novell 33Ö 35O'Malleys 54Olde Hansa 44Old Estonia 38OldHouse Hostel 30Old Town Backpackers 31Oliver 44Ombra 41Osteria di Bacco 42Pagaripoisid 50Panoraam 59Park and Swan Pond 71Park Avenue 34Park Inn Central Tallinn 28Parlament 59Patarei Prison 69Peetri Pizza 42Peking 34Peppersack 44, 50Pierre Chocolaterie 51Pikajala 50Pirosmani 34Pizza Americana 42Pizza Grande 42Pizzeria al Sole 42Platz 33Presidential Palace 71Protest 56Pulcinella 42Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia 24Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn 24RED Group Apartments 31

Restoran Arcadia 33Restoran Margarita 49Reval Café Müürivahe 14 51Reval Café Restaurant 38Reval Café Vene 1 50Revalia Grill House 44Reval Park Hotel & Casino 28Ribe 33Rock Cafe 54Romeo Family Apartments 31Russalka monument 71Saiakang 50Saigon 36Sakala Residence 31Sakura 43Savoy Boutique 24Scandic Palace 28Schlössle 24Schnitzel Haus 36Scotland Yard 54Senso 38Sfäär 38Shimo 57Shooters 54Sigari Maja 52Silk 43Silk Sushi Bar 43Sinferno 60Sisalik 46Soho 60Sokos Hotel Viru 28Sossi Klubi 59Spice 37Spider 59Spirit Café 51St. Barbara 28St. Bridget's Convent Ruins 71St. John's Church 65St. Michael's Swedish Lutheran Church 65St. Michael Juusturestoran 37St.Nicholas' Orthodox Church 65St. Olaf's Church 63St. Patrick's 56St. Peter and Paul Roman Catholic Church 65St. Petersbourg 25St Charles' Church 65Steakhouse Liivi 44Stenhus 49Sushi Cat 43Sushihouse 43Swissôtel 25Syrtaki Taverna 36Taanilinna Hotell 28Taco Express 48, 58Tähetorni 29Tallink City Hotel 28Tallinn Backpackers 31Tallinn Botanical Garden 68Tallinn Card 62Tallinn City Museum 66Tallinn Traveller Info 9Tallinn Zoo 68Tapas Bar & Restaurant 48Tchaikovsky 47Telegraaf 26Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina 32Theatre & Music Museum 67The Bronze Soldier (Aljosha) 70The Dubliner 56The Marzipan Museum 67The Monk's Bunk 31The Museum of Occupation and of the Fight for Freedom 66

tallin in your pocket 2011

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