team usa captures silver at the coupe...dried pears, toasted pecans and mesquite powder with 15%...

Volume 20 – Issue 1 spring 2012

In thIs Issue 2 Notes from the Chair

3 Guild News Editor's Note Departing Board Members New Board Members Formula Review Revisited

9 Baking Events WheatStalk 2012

10 International Events Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie Sigep Cup

24 Regional Events Asheville Bread Festival San Rafael Gathering

26 Technical Article New French Techniques

28 Grain & Milling Small Scale Milling Wheat Quality Local Grain Production in the Skagit Valley

39 Breadville USA Teaching Artisan Baking

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Team USA Captures Silver at the Coupe

The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the leading American educational resource for artisan bread bakers. Our mission: to shape the knowledge and skills of the artisan baking community through education. Bread Lines, the newsletter of The Bread Bakers Guild of America, is published four times per year.

Relying on bread basics, Bread Bakers Guild Team USA won second place in the prestigious 2012 Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in Paris. Japan placed first, and Taiwan earned third place in the competition held in conjunction with the Europain trade show, March 3–7.

Competition was intense: Although scoring points were not released when winners were announced, judges said only 4.98 (of 600) points separated the top two winners.

For team members Harry Peemoeller, Jeremey Gadouas, and Mike Zakowski, the 2012 Coupe signaled the end of a busy three years of planning, competition, and baking practices.

Guild Chairman of the Board and team coach Jeff Yankellow said “The Guild is very proud of not only what the team has achieved but at how these three bakers conducted themselves on an international stage.

By laRRy lowaRy Guild Member and Co-Owner

Tree-Top Bakery, Clinton, WA

Continued on page 10

Team USA and coach at the awards ceremony of the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, March 7, 2012. Left to right: Jeff Yankellow (coach), Jeremey Gadouas, Harry Peemoeller, and Mike Zakowski.

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”They represented The Guild with the highest level of skill, integrity, and diplomacy. Second place in the world is something to be very proud of. There were 12 teams competing in the Coupe, but there were actually over 30 teams involved in the entire process, starting with the qualifying rounds.

“This achievement is more evidence that The Guild’s mission and vision are at the forefront of artisan baking around the world. The Coupe is a great way for us to grow as an organization, and I am excited for the opportunities in the coming years for all three of the team members to share their experience and knowledge with all of our members.”

Team members Zakowski of Sonoma, CA, Gadouas of Bellevue, WA, and Peemoeller of Charlotte, NC, competed on the second day of the Coupe against bakers from Sweden, Senegal and South Korea. The team had arrived the previous week and spent four days practicing in Arras, 180 kilometers north of Paris.

During the eight-hour competition, which began at 4:50 a.m., Yankellow stood quietly watching from the sidelines, occasionally offering suggestions, admitting it was more nerve-wracking to watch than to participate.

Zakowski, who baked baguette and specialty breads, turned more than 200 pounds (92 kilograms) of dough into a wide range of products. His basic baguette, which was required to be made using a moulder, included a 20% poolish (made into four different shapes). His hand-shaped traditional baguette used type 65 flour and included 30% poolish and 5% levain. Zakowski made a pain de mie for the team’s savory sandwiches. Using 50% pre-fermented flour, it “had a lot of flavor,” he said.

Another compulsory bread was a levain he called Ryebatta – a ciabatta-style loaf made with 30% rye flour, 30% type 65 pre-fermented flour and an 80% hydration. The bread — made with dark and medium rye — also included 10% cracked rye and a small amount of honey for sweetness.

His other selections were: Yecora Rojo, a “nu-tritional” bread made with 75% stoneground

California wheat, 25% artisan bakers flour, a 90% hydration, toasted sunflower seeds, a millet overnight soaker, 15% levain, 15% biga with 40% of the flour autolysed; Pear Pequi, a combination of dried pears, toasted pecans and mesquite powder with 15% levain and 15% biga with an 82% hydra-tion; and Golden Corn Kamut, made with 20% stoneground kamut and 20% type 85 flour, both brought from California, and 60% type 65 flour from France. It included a 15% levain and 15% biga, hand-cracked kamut, 2% sugar and 2% butter.

Gadouas’ viennoiserie items were produced from two straight-doughs mixed during a one-hour prep session the day before the competition and retarded overnight. His croissant products were divided into three pieces. One was used to produce an apple cranberry croissant, a second was made into a huckleberry-lemon piece, and the third piece was used for the traditional croissant and pain au chocolat.

The basic brioche was split into four and had additional ingredients added to each: An apricot brioche (with apricot jam and pistachio marzipan filling) was made into the shape of a hexagon; a Hawaiian-inspired bread (with coconut financier filling and rum pastry cream and brown-sugar macerated pineapples); a chocolate brownie brioche (filled with a pre-baked pecan brownie topped with orange marmalade); and a brioche used to create savory mushroom sandwiches (with California havarti cheese and parsley) for the artistic pieces.

Peemoeller’s artistic design piece — “Wild, Wild West”— was an elaborate representation of America’s colorful past, made largely from live dough. It featured a cowboy hat, cactus, windmill, a wagon wheel, steam railroad engine with an elaborate cowcatcher and “Wanted: Dead or Alive” poster. The final product was displayed, as required, with sandwiches made by the team. Peemoeller said he wanted the piece to be instantly recognizable “as if John Wayne would ride in at any moment.”

Team USA’s second place finish automatically en-titles the American team to participate in the next Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in 2016. ✹

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Team USA Captures Silver at the CoupeContinued from cover

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TOP: Mike Zakowski with his mother, Marge Zakowski. CENTER: Harry Peemoeller with his wife, Alicia (Gigi), and his daughter, Nadia. BOTTOM: Jeremey Gadouas presenting a tray of his Honeycomb to the jury.

Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie

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4 Judge Brett Noy, a Guild member from Australia, converses with Jeff Yankellow. 5 Jeremey Gadouas arranges his viennoiserie. 6 Baked tribute to the Coupe du Monde. 7 Harry Peemoeller’s artistic design showpiece, "Wild, Wild West." See page 10 for detailed description. 8 Mike Zakowski (left) with Christian Vabret, the founder of the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie.

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1 Team USA and coach. Left to right: Harry Peemoeller, Jeremey Gadouas, Jeff Yankellow (coach), and Mike Zakowski. 2 Mike Zakowski checks a batch of loaves. 3 Harry Peemoeller explains the symbolism of his showpiece to the jury.

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7 Camaraderie at the Coupe. 8 Japan, USA, and Taiwan on the awards podium, Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie. 9 Japan’s artistic design showpiece. Stenciling on Coupe breads.

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1 International jury. 2 First place winners, Team Japan, jubilantly

hoist the Golden Miche. 3 Viennoiserie from

Team Japan. 4 Detail, Coupe viennoiserie.

5 This laughing Buddha was Taiwan's

entry in the Artistic Design category.

6 Team Senegal at work.

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Mike Zakowski and Team USA took home the silver medal in the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie this year in Paris. Colin Blackshear has captured the essence of the competition in his documentary, “The Baker Movie,” and will continue to edit and shape his film in the coming months.

But the film is not just about the competition. It also encompasses the full circle of the bread baking process, from the depth and quality of the simple ingredients that are carefully grown and nurtured into living dough, the alchemy that takes place between the skilled hands of an observant baker as it is guided toward the flames for its final act. It follows the path of the soil to seed, seed to grain, grain to baker and baker to table.

“The Baker Movie” is seeking additional financial support. Please help support this important project at www.thebejkr.com. ✹

By ANDY CLARK Guild Board Member and Whole Foods Market

BReAKiNg BReAD: “The Baker Movie”

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1 Mike Zakowski arranges his breads on the Team USA display stand. 2 Zakowski's breads. 3 Harry Peemoeller works on the wagon wheel. 4 Closeup view of reward poster in Harry Peemoeller’s artist design showpiece. 5 Loaves of Golden Corn Kamut, Mike Zakowski.6 Honeycomb, Jeremey Gadouas. Formula on page 14.5 6

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This beautiful brioche combines the flavors

of almonds, apricots, and honey. An orange

blossom-scented dough is layered with a

pistachio marzipan and apricot jam. An

almond and honey crunch provides a unique

texture to complement the soft brioche

underneath. People will swarm to eat it!

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Honeycomb

aPRICoT JaM

ToTal FormulaIngredients % kilograms

Fresh Apricots 100.00 1.000

Sugar 60.00 0.600

Lemon Juice 2.00 0.020

Pectin 2.50 0.025

Riesling Macerated Apricots 20.00 0.200

Totals 184.50 1.845

Total Weight 1.845 kg

aPRICoT JaM: Cook the fresh apricots, sugar and lemon

juice to a simmer. : Rest overnight, covered in fridge. : Next day, cook to 65 Brix. : Add pectin and dried apricots, bring

back to a boil. : Refrigerate again, overnight.

PISTaCHIo FIllING: Grind pistachios and almonds in food

processor until very fine. : Bring the rest of the ingredients to a boil

in a sauce pot. : Pour the boiled ingredients over nuts

with the food processor running. : Place in a bowl and refrigerate.

PISTaCHIo FIllING


Ground Pistachios 100.00 0.400

Almond Meal 25.00 0.100

Sugar 62.50 0.250

Honey 18.75 0.075

Water 31.25 0.125

Totals 237.50 0.950


MaCERaTED aPRICoTS


Dried Apricots 100.00 0.500

Riesling Wine 100.00 0.500

Totals 200.00 1.000


alMoND CRUNCH



Almond Meal 100.00 0.130

Sugar 53.85 0.070

Granulated Honey 12.31 0.016

Vegetable Oil 92.31 0.120

Cornstarch 6.15 0.008

Egg Whites 50.00 0.065

Vanilla Extract 3.85 0.005

Sliced Almonds 192.31 0.250

Totals 510.77 0.664

BRIoCHE FoR HoNEyCoMB

Total Dough Weight 1.235 kg


Bread Flour* 100.00 0.530

Salt 2.00 0.011

Instant Yeast 1.50 0.008

Egg 55.00 0.292

Butter 50.00 0.265

Sugar 12.00 0.064

Orange Blossom Water 6.70 0.036

Milk 5.00 0.027

Diastatic Malt 0.60 0.003

Powdered Sugar As Needed

Apricot Glaze As Needed

Sugar-Dipped Apricot As Needed

Ground Pistachio As Needed

Totals 232.80 1.235

* Bread Flour is hard winter wheat (11% - 11.5% protein)

MaCERaTED aPRICoTS: Chop the dried apricots into strips. : Cook in wine over low heat until wine is

absorbed.

alMoND CRUNCH: Reserve sliced almonds, ground

pistachios, and sugar-dipped apricots.: Mix other ingredients in a 5 qt. planetary

mixer with a paddle attachment. : Transfer into piping bag.

BRIoCHE: Hold back butter until after intensive

development. : After development is reached gradually

add butter and mix until combined.

FINal DoUGH: Sheet pistachio filling to 2.5 mm and

cut out pentagon inserts slightly smaller than pentagon mold below, about

10 - 15 g each.: Spread a layer of apricot filling on top of

pistachio inserts and freeze.

: Sheet brioche dough to 3.75 mm and cut with pentagon molds. Proof in molds for 1 hour.

: Push pistachio/apricot inserts into center of dough.

: Pipe almond crunch around outside edge (15 g) and top with reserved sliced almonds (10 g).

FINISHING: When cool dust with powdered sugar

around edge.: Apply apricot glaze to jam center.: Garnish with sugar-dipped apricots and

finally ground pistachio.

Contributed by jeReMeY gADoUAS Bread Bakers Guild Team USA, Viennoiserie


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PRoCESS – HoneycombBrioche Doughmixing Type of mixer Spiral or planetary mix style Intensive 1st speed 3 mins 2nd speed 6 - 8 mins Dough temp 78°F - 80°F

Fermentation length of time 12 hours Temperature 40°F

Intermediate Sheeting Presheet 8 mm rest time 10 mins Temperature 0°F

Shaping Sheet 3.75 mm Weight 40 g Proofing device Pentagon mold

Intermediate Proof length of time 45 mins Temperature 82°F Humidity 85%

Final Proof & Bake Final proof time 30 mins Temperature 80°F oven type Convection Steam Yes Total bake 11 mins Temperature 350°F

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1 Jeremey dips apricots in sugar for Honeycomb. 2 Jeremey Gadouas’ Viennoiserie on the display stand. 3 Team USA in a rare moment together, checking in with each other on timing. 4 Harry Peemoeller fits the first piece of his artistic design showpiece into place. 5 Mike cuts a loaf of Yecora Roja. 6 Baguettes de tradition made by Mike Zakowski.

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Paris. I had been there once before. But with the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie as my motivation and a resolve to experience as much baking as my eyes, ears, mouth and stomach could take, I saw Paris in a whole new light on this trip.

On Saturday we went on a Guild-sponsored tour of two bakeries. We had no translator, but at the first bakery a customer volunteered his help, and at the second, the owner’s 12 year old son did his best to communicate with us. Although we couldn’t ask all of the hard-hitting questions we would have liked to, we got to see the inner workings of two French bakeries. What I took away from this experience was the knowledge that my little bakery can be proud of the products we create.

On Monday we arrived at the expo center early so we could take in as much as possible of the American team in action. As we made our way to the area where the competition was being held, the first

thing I noticed was blaring techno music. I thought it a little odd, but it made me smile because the music added to the excitement of the event. Once we had climbed up on the risers, we could see the frantic pace of our team. That scene, combined with the music, had all the action of a Paris nightclub! Watching them work in unison was a thing of beauty.

As we drifted back and forth among the four teams competing that day, we noted the different techniques and the speed with which they were being performed. I didn’t think it could be more exciting. But just then, over the top of the techno music, I heard a voice akin to a Telemundo soccer game yelling “USA! USA! USA! Come on, let’s hear it for your team!” followed by:

“Nippon! Nippon! Nippon!” The Japanese began waving their flags. While the judges ruled differently, I think our team had the strongest effort. After my Coupe experience, I feel invigorated and ready to try to step up my baking game. ✹

By SHANNoN TALTY Guild Member and Owner of Olde Hearth Bread, Casselberry, FL

World Cup - Techno to Telemundo

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1 Elegant displays of macarons were a common and tempting sight at Europain and in Parisian patisseries. 2 Parisian bakeries are famous for their breads. 3 Bread piglets add a touch of whimsy to this exhibit. 4 A large contingent from Vancouver Island University, led by Guild member Martin Barnett, made Canada’s presence known.


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1 & 3 These mottos - The Spirit of Bread and In Bread We Trust - express the feeling of Guild members. 2 A member of Jean-Michel Perruchon’s team works on a sugar sculpture. 4 Raspberry perfection. 5 Team Peru's fans were a colorful and musical group. They wore red and white T-shirts designed to look like the Peruvian flag and played flutes to show their support. 6 Petit fours like tiny pieces of art. 7 The Dutch company, Van de Leur, presented this moveable feast. 8 Chrysanthemum sugar sculpture.

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The time I spent at the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie 2012 in Paris was simply surreal. Meeting bakers from around the world, sharing and talking about the one thing that draws us all together was beyond my expectations. Exchanging knowledge and learning about different ingredients and techniques in bread making as well as viennoiserie from each country was inspiring.

I enjoyed the Coupe du Monde because it allowed the bakers to be traditional as well as creative and express their country through their artisan products. As a spectator I learned a lot about each country through the native ingredients they used, as well as their beautiful artistic pieces. Each country was connected through this long history of bread making, yet so diverse in their approach and their final product. The new techniques and the creation of flavor combinations that the bakers created due to the intensity and standards of the Coupe du Monde impressed me.

The social aspect of the competition envi-ronment was just as thrilling as watching

the teams compete. It was a great place to meet with former instructors, class-mates, friends and bakers because we were all there to support the growth and innovation of baking, regardless of which country’s flag we were holding.

The excitement of the competition was positively overwhelming. All the supporters for each country stood for hours, watching their team work quickly and efficiently until the eight hours of competition came to an end. The fans would chant their country’s name, sing songs and wave their flags high above their heads. Every so often one of the bakers in the kitchen would look up and smile at the fans who had traveled so far to support them. The connection and passion between the supporters and the bakers was incredible.

I am thankful I was able to experience an international competition supporting bak-ing and pastry. The diligent performance by Bread Bakers Guild Team USA and their enthusiastic interaction with their support-ers was thrilling to watch. ✹

By MoNiCA HoFFBeRg Guild Member, Baker at Bakery Nouveau, Seattle, WA

Connection and Passion at the Coupe du Monde

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1 Stephane Klein’s sugar work, Europain. 2 This edible chocolate and pastry creation mysteriously lost pieces over the five days of the show. 3 & 4 French bakeries and patisseries displayed their wares at Europain.


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When I began to think about going to Europain, I was excited for many reasons. Of course, being in the magnificent city of Paris, with its grand and historic architecture was reason enough. Having the opportunity to visit bakeries and pastry shops to see the latest trends in Europe was also exciting. I was excited to see Bread Bakers Guild Team USA compete in the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie and just watch and absorb the innovation from the 12 teams who came from all corners of the world. While at the Europain show, I could see new products, ideas and equipment and reconnect with friends and Guild members who would also be there.

I am happy to say that my eagerness and excitement about going to Europain was fulfilled on all accounts. Paris continues to be as beautiful and historic as ever. This trip I spent a great deal of time, more than ever, touring bakeries and pastry shops. Ladurée for their macaroons, Poilâne for being Poilâne, Fauchon for the magnificent work they do in presentation and merchandising their great products. Hermé, of course, for great pastries, but the greatest surprise was a raspberry filled croissant from Hermé which was excellent in both the flavor and the overall

quality of the laminated croissant. I visited many chocolate shops and boulangeries. What I came to realize was that in some ways Paris is no different from back home, there are great boulangeries and some sub-standard boulangeries, even in Paris.

The two bakeries we visited with The Guild quickly reminded me how much space we have in North America. In Paris, work areas are compartmentalized and bakers have limited space to prepare the prod-ucts, but nonetheless, many efficient pro-cesses are developed in such tight spaces.

The Europain show has changed from my last visit four years ago – it was, a bit smaller, and there were far fewer demon-strations. The competition area, however, was better. Previously, you had to walk to other areas of the exposition area to see the events, but this time they were all con-tained together in one huge cube.

Mike, Harry and Jeremey represented Team USA exceptionally well - special congratulations to them for winning the silver medal!

And finally, I had a great time connecting with other Guild members at the Guildhall Gathering. Who knew that California was such a big producer of wheat? ✹

By ALAN DUMoNCeAUx Guild Member, Baking Instructor, and Team Canada Member

Bakery excitement in Paris

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1 A good baguette should have a sweet aroma with the faint scent of toasted wheat. 2 The group of students from Kendall College in Chicago, led by Melina Kelson-Podolsky (center, in tan coat), put together their own Paris bakery itinerary. 3 The famous Poilâne Bakery was a popular stop. 4 Store Front, Michel Deschamps Bakery, Paris. 5 Chef Michel Deschamps shows a Guild tour group the baguette dough molder he uses for shaping. 6 Baker at Michel Deschamps, dusting, scoring and baking baguettes in the front of the store.

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On a rainy evening in March, over 140 Guild members and their guests gathered in the elegant Grand Salon of the Hôtel d’Aubusson on Paris’ Left Bank for a post-Coupe celebration.

There was a fire blazing in the huge fireplace, the wine flowed, and wait staff circulated through the two rooms, offering trays of savory and sweet hors d’oeuvres. Bread Bakers Guild Team USA and their coach were applauded as they arrived, and glasses were raised to toast their silver medal achievement in the 2012 Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie. The volume of conversation and laughter confirmed that it was an enjoyable and memorable Guild event in the City of Lights. ✹

MARCH 7, 2012 Hôtel d’Aubusson 33 Rue Dauphine, 750 Paris, France

Paris guildhall gathering

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1 2 4 6 Guild members and their guests, Paris Guildhall Gathering. 3 Sweets from the Hôtel d'Aubusson. 5 Cherry Embon of Vancouver Island University and Jeff Yankellow, Chair of the Guild Board. 7 Savory hors d’oeuvres.


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BAKeRieSAu 140Au Levain d’AntanBoulangerie JulienDeschamps MichelDu Pain et des IdéesJean Pierre CohierL’Autre BoulangeLa TraditionLaurent DucheneLe Boulanger de MongeLe Moulin de la ViergeReglait SarlVoiriot Christian

BAKeRY ToUR LeADeRS AND TRANSLAToRSNeale CreamerMarie-Claude Duytschaever (MC Farine)Nas SalamatiPatricia RothMarie-Edith Wikina

BReAD BAKeRS gUiLD TeAM USAJeremey GadouasHarry PeemoellerMichael Zakowski

BReAD BAKeRS gUiLD TeAM USA CoACHeSJeff YankellowJory DownerCiril Hitz

BReAD BAKeRS gUiLD TeAM USA - PRACTiCe VeNUeSJohnson & Wales University Charlotte, NCJohnson & Wales University, Providence, RI

Culinary Institute of America – Greystone, St. Helena, CAGeneral Mills, Minneapolis, MNKeith Giusto Bakery Supply Petaluma, CAZingerman’s Bakeshop, Ann Arbor, MIKendall College, Chicago, ILFrench Pastry School, Chicago, ILBit of Swiss, Stevensville, MIScottsdale Culinary Institute Scottsdale, AZBennison’s Bakery, Evanston, ILSan Francisco Baking Institute South San Francisco, CA

BReAD BAKeRS gUiLD TeAM USA TeCHNiCAL ADViSoR, FRANCe Nigel Saunders, Lesaffre

BReAD BAKeRS gUiLD TeAM USA – TeAM BooKSSolveig TofteOrton Tofte, Park Printing Minneapolis, MN

DoNoRSPlease see page 3

gUiLDHALL gATHeRiNg Lyse Faure, L’Hôtel d’Aubusson

gUiLD STAFFLaverne Mau DickerJill Valavanis

iNTeRNATioNAL eVeNTS CoMMiTTee Melina Kelson-Podolsky, ChairPhyllis EnloeCathy Wayne

L’ÉCoLe FRANçAiSe De BoULANgeRie AURiLLAC (eFBA)Christian VabretNathalie Breuil

LeSAFFRe iNTeRNATioNALNadine DebailMonique SeryCorinne Wallaert

PHoTogRAPHeRSPaul AboudJustine AtwoodGerry BetzAlly BradburyRyan ChoiAshley ChuPaul ConroyLaverne Mau DickerCherry EmbonJosie FranzenKelsey LaRoseSandie MattRachelle McKinneyKim MontelloSamantha NewportChristy PowerSamantha RingTaina SeibertShannon Talty

TRAVeL AgeNTPatricia Daury, Premier Travel

WRiTeRSAlan DumonceauxMonica HoffbergLarry LowaryShannon Talty

AcknowledgementsOur thanks to the many people who paved the way for the 2012 Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie: the planners who handled the myriad details and headaches, the schools who hosted team practices, the bakeries who opened their doors to tour groups, the donors who gave us the resources to send a team to Paris, the attendees who shared their photographs and reflections for this issue of Bread Lines.

We would also like to express our special appreciation to the people on the firing line: the members of Bread Bakers Guild Team USA, their coaches and families, who soldiered through two years of preparation and a nerve-wracking competition to bring home the silver medal.

Mille fois merci à tous - all of you helped to make The Guild’s Paris experience a memorable one!

team usa captures silver at the coupe...dried pears, toasted pecans and mesquite powder with 15%...

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