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TECHNOLOGICAL TRENDS ON THE FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES SECTOR Authors: Camila Eller & Ricardo M Naveiro – Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro ABSTRACT The practice of technology foresight to keep track of technological advances is increasingly valued, and its systematic use is understood as essential to business in the new knowledge economy, allowing the identification of areas for strategic research & technology with the greatest economic and social benefit. The process of technology foresight has become a growing need for organizations to keep up with the significant and rapid changes of technology in their core business and to better understand its business impact in order to support their decision making process. This paper will focus on functional textiles, an emergent sector amongst the textiles industry with a high economic potential, in which there are several opportunities for the development of new products and the creation of added value based on multifunctional effects for new technical applications. This sector, also called smart textiles, offers a versatile framework for incorporating sensing, monitoring, and information processing devices that enables smart textiles to sense and react to environmental conditions or stimuli. This sector is a clear priority for the future of textiles and clothing in the developed countries. The functional textiles sector encompasses, the fiber itself, the fabric, the textile finishing and new materials applied in fiber of fabrics as well. Their applications are broad, such as in the aerospace industry, in the medical area, on sustainable construction, in the military equipment, on the sports goods, etc. A survey of the scientific and technological developments in functional textiles was carried out, using patents and scientific papers with the time frame from the beginning of 2010 to the end of 2014 in order to identify technological trends. This encompasses the right selection of databases, the establishment of the search strategy and keywords to be applied, the screening of the retrieved information and the analysis and consolidation of all data gathered. A list of emergent technologies was created based on the mentioned survey and used to generate a questionnaire that was assessed by a panel of Brazilian experts in a two round Delphi method approach. Experts were asked, among other questions, to judge the diffusion rate of each technology in Brazil in the next five years and in the next fifteen years, as well as to appraise the conditions of local production in the next fifteen years. This paper will present the preliminary results of this Delphi panel, aiming to create a basis for understanding how companies in this sector can explore more efficiently the technological opportunities, as well as identifying constraints and shortcomings to implement these technologies in Brazil. Keywords: Multifunctional Textiles, Technology foresight, Patents, Delphi INTRODUCTION Since the 1980s, profound and constant changes have occurred in the global competitive environment in which organizations operate. The historical movement of economic and trade integration, which emerged as a result of human innovation and technological progress, has required a constant process of improvement and adaptation from institutions, in order to ensure their vitality and competitiveness (International Monetary Fund, 2000). Innovation can International Association for Management of Technology IAMOT 2016 Conference Proceedings 1780

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Page 1: TECHNOLOGICAL TRENDS ON THE FUNCTIONAL …iamot2016.org/proceedings/papers/IAMOT_2016_paper_244.pdf · Among the proposed classification of methods and techniques used on forward-looking

TECHNOLOGICAL TRENDS ON THE FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES SECTOR

Authors: Camila Eller & Ricardo M Naveiro – Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro

ABSTRACT

The practice of technology foresight to keep track of technological advances is increasingly valued, and its systematic use is understood as essential to business in the new knowledge economy, allowing the identification of areas for strategic research & technology with the greatest economic and social benefit. The process of technology foresight has become a growing need for organizations to keep up with the significant and rapid changes of technology in their core business and to better understand its business impact in order to support their decision making process. This paper will focus on functional textiles, an emergent sector amongst the textiles industry with a high economic potential, in which there are several opportunities for the development of new products and the creation of added value based on multifunctional effects for new technical applications. This sector, also called smart textiles, offers a versatile framework for incorporating sensing, monitoring, and information processing devices that enables smart textiles to sense and react to environmental conditions or stimuli. This sector is a clear priority for the future of textiles and clothing in the developed countries. The functional textiles sector encompasses, the fiber itself, the fabric, the textile finishing and new materials applied in fiber of fabrics as well. Their applications are broad, such as in the aerospace industry, in the medical area, on sustainable construction, in the military equipment, on the sports goods, etc. A survey of the scientific and technological developments in functional textiles was carried out, using patents and scientific papers with the time frame from the beginning of 2010 to the end of 2014 in order to identify technological trends. This encompasses the right selection of databases, the establishment of the search strategy and keywords to be applied, the screening of the retrieved information and the analysis and consolidation of all data gathered. A list of emergent technologies was created based on the mentioned survey and used to generate a questionnaire that was assessed by a panel of Brazilian experts in a two round Delphi method approach. Experts were asked, among other questions, to judge the diffusion rate of each technology in Brazil in the next five years and in the next fifteen years, as well as to appraise the conditions of local production in the next fifteen years. This paper will present the preliminary results of this Delphi panel, aiming to create a basis for understanding how companies in this sector can explore more efficiently the technological opportunities, as well as identifying constraints and shortcomings to implement these technologies in Brazil. Keywords: Multifunctional Textiles, Technology foresight, Patents, Delphi INTRODUCTION Since the 1980s, profound and constant changes have occurred in the global competitive environment in which organizations operate. The historical movement of economic and trade integration, which emerged as a result of human innovation and technological progress, has required a constant process of improvement and adaptation from institutions, in order to ensure their vitality and competitiveness (International Monetary Fund, 2000). Innovation can

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be considered as a synonym for scientific and technological progress, in which technology plays the most important role in the economic development process. There is a link between economy and technological progress that should not be neglected. Industrialized societies have a vast technological field very closely shaped by economics incentives, which shapes, directs and even constrains scientific progress, determining the intensification of research in specific fields of science, encouraging promising technological innovations (Rosenberg, 2006). In this context, technological forecasting (TF) has been acknowledged as an effective tool in setting technology strategies. The practice of technology forecasting to keep track of technological advances is increasingly valued, and its systematic use is understood as essential to business in the new knowledge economy, allowing the identification of areas for strategic research & technology with the greatest economic and social benefit. The present article provides an example of technological forecasting of functional textiles, an emergent sector amongst the textiles industry with a high economic potential, in which there are several opportunities for the development of new products and the creation of added value based on multifunctional effects for new technical applications. For this purpose, a survey on patents and scientific papers was carried out, in order to identify technological trends followed by a Delphi Panel to obtain the diffusion rate of each technology in Brazil in a time frame of five and fifteen years, as well as to assess the potential of local production in the next fifteen years. Initially, the paper defines the functional textiles sector, followed by the methodology and the identification of technological trends for the case. Afterwards, it is presented the Delphi Panel results, the discussion and the paper conclusions. FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES Today, the Functional Textiles (also known as Technical Textiles - TT) has emerged as the most widely acceptable term for this expanding field of textile applications. These textiles are defined as materials “that may have multifunctional purposes, such as fashion and environmental protection, or rainwear, or those fabrics providing resistance to a plethora of threats, such as ballistic, chemical and flame protection” (Lewis, 2001). In recent years, there is a range of new terms used to designate textiles materials belonging to the Technical Textile (TT) segment, such as “smart, intelligent, interactive, responsive, adaptive” (Jocic, 2008), “eletro, e-textiles” (Cherenack; Pieterson, 2012). It can be remarked that these terms enhance some aspects linked to features or attributes of these materials. However, a great deal of these terms is used as synonyms, or even as sub classifications of broad categories. The expansion of this segment worldwide has started in the twentieth century, due to the discovery of artificial and synthetic fibers, which has encouraged the textile industry to seek for the development of new technologies and new materials in order to respond to emergent needs. Due to Technical Textiles multidisciplinary approach, “the economic scope and importance of technical textiles extends far beyond the textile industry itself and has an impact upon just about every sphere of human economic and social activity” (Byrne, 2000). The fact that TT is used either individually or as a part of another component product, expands the versatility of use of these materials, as well the intersections among other areas of knowledge.

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According Telasang (2015) technical textiles represent about 27 per cent of total textile production. The world market for technical textiles was US$250 bn in 2013 and the world market in techical textiles products is forecast to reach US$315 bn in 2020. In Brazil, information gathered from Instituto de Estudos e Marketing Industrial (2012) shows that the TT sector in 2012 had about 240 active companies. In the same year, the estimated production volume reached 605,000 tons, totaling US$ 5.5 billion. Exports totaled US$ 347 million, corresponding to 6.3% of production value. On the other hand, the sum of imports of TT in the same period was $ 457 million. Brazil is a growing market for technical textiles with emphasis on the nonwovens sector. Accordingly to the International Trade Administration (2015), the Brazilian nonwovens market will lead the South America region, with a growing rate of approximately 9% in the years 2015 and 2016. This data reinforces the opportunity of making a study on technology foresight applied to the segment of functional textiles in Brazil, aiming at create a framework to understand how companies in this sector can explore more efficiently the technological opportunities, as well as identifying constraints and shortcomings to implement these technologies in the country. IDENTIFYING TECHNOLOGY TRENDS The study of the future is a challenge present in the humankind existence, always aiming to gather information that minimizes the risk of taking decisions. Companies also have the same challenge, in order to anticipate future events in their decision making process.

Future Studies are a research category in which can be classified all kinds of studies that aim to anticipate, or build the future. Within this broad field there are the prospective studies, which can be understood as “a systematic attempt to look into the longer-term future of science, technology, the economy and society, with the aim of identifying the areas of strategic research and the emerging of generic technologies likely to yield the greatest economic and social benefits" (Martin, 1995 apud Culhs; Grupp, 2001, p.1). Accordingly to Santos (2004), it is common finding prospective studies using more than one tool or approach, normally combining qualitative and quantitative techniques. The literature suggests a multitude of techniques and methodologies applied to future studies. Among the proposed classification of methods and techniques used on forward-looking activities, stands out the one suggested by the Technology Futures Analysis Methods Working Group (2004), which classifies them into nine families: creativity, descriptive & matrices, statistical, expert opinion, monitoring & intelligence, modeling & simulation, scenarios, trend analyses & valuing/decision/economic. Together, these families enclose the theoretical knowledge comprised by the area entitled Technology Futures Analysis (TFA). Accordingly to Kupfer and Tigre (2004), these methodologies can be organized into three main groups: assessment, forecasting and foresight. Such groups include methodologies and techniques that are distinguished basically by the kind of future design approach, the time horizon, frequency, nature and origin of the data used in the different types of study. When considering the technological dimension of a prospective study, patents assume a prominent position, according the traits of their nature, form and content. Patents are public documents structured in a certain way that facilitate the retrieval of technical information related to the research and development (R&D) activities carried out by companies, institutions, government agencies or individual inventors. Patent analysis has been widely used as an effective technique to evaluate technological competence and potential, discover core technologies, measure research outputs, identify

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emerging technologies and predict technological trends in a field, institution, region, or nation (Pavitt, 1985; Zhang, 2011). The use of information contained in patents may also play a crucial role in promoting technical progress and strengthening of an existing technological leadership (Häusser, 1979). Patent information is considered a key element for knowledge management, in a way that data contained in patents should be understood as a source of strategic information, which contributes with important information for decision-making related to the effective management technology (Ernst, 2003). Considering the above statements, it is clear that doing a systematic monitoring of patent´s content contributes to the appropriation of technological knowledge, as well as it is a very effective tool in supporting decision-making. In this article the identification of technological trends in the Brazilian functional textiles sector has been done in two steps. The first one has established a preliminary list of emerging technologies based in a survey of the scientific and technological developments in functional textiles carried out in patents and scientific papers with the time frame from 2005 to 2014. In a second step a group of experts were invited to reason about the diffusion rate of each technology in Brazil in the next five and fifteen years, as well as to assess the potential of local production in the next fifteen years. Figure 1 outlines the methodological approach used to conduct the analysis proposed by this work.

Figure 1 - Process of technological trends identification Patent search strategy The survey was accomplished using data contained in patents available in electronic format and in databases that provided free access to the entire document. Considering that TT segment is multifunctional and has connections with different fields of knowledge, the survey was not constrained to the D code (textile, paper) of the he International Patent Classification (IPC). Among various options for systematic search, and taking into account the peculiarity of the subject of this article, the search strategy chosen has used keywords found in some specific fields of the patent. Accordingly with Xie and Miyazaki (2013), in the cases where the technology or the products investigated are emergent and integrated, chose patents classification as a primary search strategy seems not to work well, being more advantageous execute the search from keywords.

Identification of emerging

technologies

1st step

Literature / databases researched

2st step

First Delphi Round - questionnaire

4st step

Second Delphi Round - questionnaire

Technologies evaluation

3st step

Data compilation - feedback

Technological trends

5st step

Conclusions - preliminary results

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There is a great deal of data bases which offer access to electronic patent documents. In this work it was chosen the data base available at the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO). This choice was made due to some features offered by this base, such as the possibility of the search be made in the full document or in specific fields, access to an unlimited number of records, as well as access to the full text contained in the patent in English, which does not happen in some other bases. In addition, the US patent office is among the five largest databases in applications volume (World Intellectual Property Organization - WIPO, 2014). The search was conducted only on the basis that includes the granted patents, classified as utility patents. According to the USPTO a "utility patents may be granted to anyone who invents or discovers any new and useful process, machine, article of manufacture, or composition of matter, or any new and useful improvement thereof" (United States Patent and Trademark Office, 2014). The selected keywords are terms linked to the attributes of TT (which differentiates them from traditional textiles) rather than those related to the final applications. The main objective was to explore broadly the selected theme. Firstly, were used commonly words employed, in technical and academic community, for designation of the subject: "technical" and "textile", which resulted in 33 occurrences. To enlarge this selection, the words "smart", "multifunctional" and "fabric" were also used as were words found in some patents analysed. Considering the conclusions of Xie and Miyazaki (2013), that the most effective strategy for identifying patents from keywords is to use the information in the fields: title, abstract and claim; this search has adopted these fields, by the combination, two by two, of the five related words, which should appear simultaneously in any of the three selected fields (title, abstract or claim). This search considered a period of five years, from 01/01/2010 to 31/12/2014, and the results were summarized in Table 1.

Table 1 - Results of searches for keywords

Keywords Number of Occurrences

Technical + Textile$ 33 Technical + Fabric 39 Multifunctional + Textile$ 16 Multifunctional + Fabric 14 Smart + Textile$ 8 Smart + Fabric 30 Grand total: 140 Duplicates 20 Total analyzed: 120

The "$" trucantion symbol was used to allow recovery the terms "textile" and "textiles" at the time of search, however this same truncation symbol was not applied to the term "fabric", because in addition to the term "fabrics", allow recovery words such as "fabrication" and "fabricate", not desirable to this search. A survey using scientific papers, books and other publications related to the subject was also conducted.

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Emergent technologies At the end of the survey, it was possible to draw up a preliminary list of the main emergent technologies identified for the sector. Following are some main issues described from analysis.

Nanotechnology, biotechnology and surface technologies (laminating and coating) were the most discussed issues in this set of patents. In more recent documents there were some records about plasma, phase change materials (which store latent heat) and printing techniques used for modification of textile surfaces. In general, improvements were remarked in chemicals adhesion mechanisms to the textile substrates in order to make these features more attractive and durable, as well as economic and environmentally advantageous. As regards the textiles forming process, knitting was more prominent than weaving. Innovation in this area exploits the forming versatility of the knitted fabrics, such as: incorporation of multifunctional fibers, yarns, fabrics and devices and the different types of interlacing. There is a trend to thermal knitted fabrics production, in which patterning and composition aspects allow building a single layer fabric (which advantageously replaces those in several layers); thermal knitted fabrics using term sensitive materials to improve dynamic insulation performance and knitted fabrics both waterproof and breathable. Regarding the nonwoven forming processes, trends observed were concentrated in the resistant to flame and multilayer materials, such as spunbond and metlblow extrusion technologies for formation of the web by molten route, as well as spunlaced, hydroentangled or needlepunched technologies, for consolidation of the web by mechanical means. Trends in fibers and yarns forming processes included developments related to the electrically conductive composite yarns manufacturing; yarns composed by different types of fiber with multifunctional characteristics and the use of additives to change the properties of chemical fibers (as reduce pilling formation, microbicides fibers). Trends in apparatus and machines included the improvement of textile coating technologies such as aqueous jet systems, inkjet, thermal inkjet, piezoelectric inkjet. Trends in the field of devices were focused on electronics interface circuits to tactile fabrics (especially using piezoelectric materials, nanotubes, polymers and electro conductive fibers made from alloys with memory shape), and on remote monitoring of patients (telemetry) allowing the detection, measurement and recording their bioelectric signals. In the field of raw materials trends were diffused in a wide range of materials, with emphasis on: phase change, shape memory, chromic, conductive, piezoelectric, metamaterials, biodegradable, micro and nanomaterials. The analysis of this set of information generated a list containing 42 emerging technologies that were used to build a questionnaire which was assessed by a panel of Brazilian experts in a two round Delphi method approach. The list containing the description of emerging technologies is available in Appendix A. Delphi analysis The Delphi technique is based on structural surveys and makes use of personal information from participants, in majority experts in certain area of knowledge. As stated by (Okoli;

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Pawlowski, 2004) & Kulhs (2004) the main objective is to obtain the most reliable consensus of a group of experts. Delphi Panel is survey conducted with experts and done in two or more 'rounds' in which in the second and later rounds the results of the previous round are given as feedback. From the second round, the experts answer under the influence of their colleagues' opinions. There is no standard Delphi application; situations are diverse and this technique admits variations of its classic form. However, some features are essential such as controlled interaction (anonymity among experts), repeated interactions, controlled opinion feedback and avocation of refined opinion (Gupta; Clark, 1996; Linstone; Turoff, 1975). In this work, data was collected in two phases, through a questionnaire in which respondents indicate the degree of diffusion expected in Brazil for each technology. A total of 24 experts were invited directly via email. Details of the respondents are provided in Table 2.

Table 2 - Delphi respondent profile across the two phases

Characteristic Frequency Percent Round 1 Round 2 Round 1 Round 2

Gender Male 10 5 91 45 Female 1 0 9 0 Occupation Academic research 6 3 55 27 Public sector 4 2 36 18 Industrial sector 1 0 9 0

The list of 42 emergent technologies was subdivided into 5 groups:

(i) Raw materials and new materials applied to the textile production - with 14 topics; (ii) Spinning processes - with 6 topics; (iii) Weaving, knitting and nonwoven forming processes - with 6 topics; (iv) Chemical inputs and finishing processes - with 12 topics; (v) Technological macro trends - with 4 topics.

At the beginning of each technological block, respondents were asked to self-assess their level of knowledge on the subject. Graph 1 summarizes the distribution of respondents by their level of expertise in each of the blocks considered in the survey.

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Graph 1 - Distribution of respondents by level of knowledge

The technologies were evaluated by the experts in terms of feasibility and viability at the global level, and diffusion rate in the next five and fifteen years (2020 and 2030 respectively), at the Brazilian level, as well as the conditions of local production within the next fifteen years. At the end of the two Delphi rounds, the classification of technologies was done, sequentially and progressively, into one of the following descriptions:

• Technically feasible technologies - are viable emerging technologies to be produced on the current state of the art in the next 15 years in the world;

• Commercially viable technologies - are emerging technologies with commercially viable cost in a horizon of 15 years compared to competing technologies;

• Non-Attractive technologies - are emerging technologies, technically feasible and commercial viable in the world within 15 years, but with low potential diffusion in Brazil over the next 15 years;

• Attractive technologies - are the emerging technologies, technically feasible and commercial viable in the world within 15 years, and with high potential diffusion in Brazil over the next 15 years;

• Relevant technologies - are emerging technologies, technically feasible and commercial viable in the world within 15 years, and with high expected diffusion in Brazil over the next 5 and15 years.

Due to the potential for production and development, relevant and attractive technologies are subdivided into:

• Overriding technologies: relevant or attractive technologies with high potential for production in Brazil in a horizon of up to 15 years;

• Critical technologies: relevant or attractive technologies with low production potential of up to 15 years;

1

1

0

1

1

0

0

0

2

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4

2

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0 2 4 6 8 10 12

Raw materials and new materials applied to thetextile production

Spinning processes

Weaving, knitting and nonwoven formingprocesses

Chemical inputs and finishing processes

Technological macrotrends

Not Familiar Incidentally Acquired Familiar Well-Informed Expert

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RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Experts have evaluated the technologies in two rounds, with the possibility of changing opinion after taken in account their colleague´s opinion. Among the 42 emerging technologies, one (2%) was considered to be technically not feasible, five (12%) not commercially viable, four (10%) unattractive, seventeen (40%) attractive -overriding, teen (24%) attractive – critical, five (12%) relevant - overriding and no (0%) considered relevant critical, as illustrated by the graph 2.

Graph 2 - Distribution of technologies by classification Raw materials and new materials applied to the textile production The use of natural dyes, applied to electrical conductive elastomeric fibers in order to produce folding photovoltaic textiles was judged as a not viable commercially technology. Metamaterials used in textile products and manufacturing inputs, auxetic materials, piezoelectric materials, carbon nanotubes applied to the yarn coating and the biosynthesis of cellulose nanofibers were considered 'attractive - critical' technologies. This means that Brazil does not possess, in fifteen years, scientific, technological and industrial base expertise for its development and production. Phase change materials, chromic materials used in the production of fibers and chemical inputs and the biosynthesis of biodegradable / renewable textile fiber materials have been classified as 'attractive - overriding ' technologies (high diffusion and high production potential in the next fifteen years). Finally, memory shape, conductive and recycled materials were considered 'relevant - overriding ' technologies (with high expected diffusion in Brazil over the next 5 and15 years and high potential for production in Brazil in a horizon of up to 15 years). In general, it can be inferred that the use of new materials (in the form of fiber materials, additives and inputs) able to replace those more traditional with performance gains is considered relevant, proof of this is the absence of deliberately considered ‘non-attractive’ technologies.

2%

12%

10%

40%

24%

12%

0%

0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50%

Technically not feasible

Commercially not viable

Non-Attractive

Attractive - priority

Attractive - critical

Relevant - priority

Relevant - critical

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Spinning processes There was no relevant technology among the six selected technologies. The use of genetic engineering, applied to silkworm, to produce artificial silk filament with physical properties of spider silk significantly improved was considered technically not feasible. The use of gel spinning, in the next fifteen years, was considered not viable. Magnetospinning and co-extrusion process, applied to the manufacturing of multicomponent filaments were considered non-attractive technologies, i.e., it is expected a low diffusion of these technologies in Brazil within the next 15 years. Virtual simulation systems technologies were classified as “attractive – overriding” technology and electrospinning as "attractive – critical” technology, which indicates an expected high diffusion, but low potential for its development and production in Brazil. The Brazilian textile industry has strong competences in cotton products. This explains the low degree of diffusion of the evaluated technologies, which are mainly focused on the manufactured fibers production. In the segment of technical textiles there is a trend in the use of manufactured fibers. Therefore, the acquisition of skills and competences in this productive chain is required. Weaving, knitting and nonwoven forming processes The technologies considered either ‘non-attractive’, or ‘commercially not viable’ or ‘technically not feasible’. While 3D weaving technology (multilayer) applied to the production of textiles and the use of nanofibers applied to the production of fabrics and nonwovens were classified as “attractive – overriding” technology, 3D printer and Seamless technologies were classified as ‘attractive – critical’ due to the low potential for production of up to 15 years. The use of high-performance fibers, applied to the production of fabrics and nonwovens, in order to produce textile materials with advanced functional properties was considered a ‘relevant – overriding’ technology, i.e., with high degree of diffusion in Brazil over the next 5 and 15 years, and with high potential for production in Brazil in a horizon of up to 15 years. This technological opportunity area covers the nonwovens production technology, a class of materials with a growing consumption per capita. It is interesting to note that the consumption of high-performance fibers appears relevance, although the Brazilian potential to produce this type of material (eg.by electrospinning or co-extrusion spinning) has been appointed as low. This suggests that the national fiber consumption of this nature will remain very dependent on imports, if no investment is done for creation of scientific, technological and industrial base competences. Chemical inputs and finishing processes Here, the in situ polymer deposition technique and the use of lenticular effect technology were appointed as a not viable commercially technology. The ultrasound technology applied to finishing processes at the nanoscale (nanodyeing, nanoprint, nanofinishing) and the laser use, applied to the textile finishing process, were classified as 'non-attractive' technologies. The lamination technology was considered with high potential diffusion in Brazil over the next 15 years but with low potential for production – an ‘attractive -critical’ technology. According to the evaluation of experts, seven technologies were ‘attractive – overriding’ classified as coating, plasma, ink jet printing, microencapsulation methods, electrodeposition

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technique, use of functional nanomaterials applied to chemical inputs and use of electroluminescence, applied to textile dyes, to produce textiles with innovative light emission features. These are technologies with high potential diffusion in Brazil over the next 15 years and high potential for production in Brazil in a horizon of up to 15 years. In this group, the technologies with a high degree of diffusion are those employed in the production of composites, multifunctional and environmentally responsible materials (with reduced waste generation, consumption of natural resources and efficient use of inputs). Technological macro trends Among the technological macro trends, the use of biomimicry concept was considered a not viable commercially technology, i.e., without commercially viable cost in a horizon of 15 years. However, the use of nanotechnology and of Information and Communication Technology (ICT) were both classified as an ‘attractive – overriding’, due to their high diffusion and production potential over the next 15 years. The use of Ecodesign concepts applied to the development of solutions in the area of TT was considered with high expected diffusion in Brazil over the next 5 and 15 years. CONCLUSIONS The TT segment integrate the traditional textile and clothing industry, characterized by having a chain with high heterogeneity, low degree of integration and coordination between their productive links. (Agência Brasileira de Desenvolvimento Industrial, 2008).

It can be remarked that some of these structural characteristics may prevent the diffusion of a set of technologies considered attractive, due to the lack of scientific, technological and industrial base skills to ensure the creation of a national potential for development and production. It is important to have technological upgrading and knowledge for the quick response to changes in consumer preferences. In particular, nanotechnology and biotechnology are valued aspects that depend on investments to ensure their proper development potential and domestic production in order to exploit the diffusion potential envisioned for the next 15 years. The development trends of sustainable product that do not harm the environment and the health of consumers will be strengthened by expanding the base of conscious consumers. This data has indicated that the technologies related to this issue (for example the use of recycled materials and Ecodesign concept) will be widely diffused in Brazil and that the country will have high potential for production and development. It is expected that a large survey on TT be done in the next few months with the support of the Textiles Association and Agência Brasileira de Desenvolvimento Industrial reinforcing these preliminary results and bringing new insights for the development of this sector in Brazil. REFERENCES Agência Brasileira de Desenvolvimento Industrial (2008). Relatório de acompanhamento setorial têxtil e confecção/ http://www.abdi.com.br/Estudo/textil%20e%20confeccao%20junho%2008.pdf [13 December 2015].

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Byrne, C (2000). Technical textile markets: an overview. In: HORROCKS, A.R.; ANAND, S.C. (Eds.). Handbook of Technical Textiles, pp. 1-23. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC.

Cherenak, K and van Pieterson, L (2012). Smart textiles: challenges and opportunities. Journal of Applied Physics, vol. 112, 2012/ http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.4742728 [23 December 2014].

Cuhls, K and Grupp, H (2001). Status and prospects of technology foresight in Germany after ten years/ http://www.nistep.go.jp/achiev/ftx/eng/mat077e/html/mat077ae.html [18 September 2014].

Ernst, H (2003). Patent information for strategic technology management. World Patent Information, 25, 233-242.

Gupta, UG and Clarke, RE (1996). Theory and applications of the Delphi technique: a bibliography (1975-1994). Technological Forecasting & Social Change, vol 53, p. 185-211.

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APPENDIX A

RAW MATERIALS AND NEW MATERIALS APPLIED TO THE TEXTILE PRODUCTION 1) Phase change materials applied to the fibers / filament / wire, aimed to confer to the textile materials the ability to absorb, store and release large amounts of energy in the form of latent heat (thermal management). 2) Use of shape memory materials applied to the fibers / filaments / yarns, fabrics and nonwovens, in order to impart the textile materials ability to recover its original shape after suffering a temporary deformation process. 3) Use of chromic materials applied to the fibers / filaments / yarns, fabrics and nonwovens, aiming to give textiles a reversible change in ownership of color. 4) Use of chromic materials, applied to the production of dyes and pigments, in order to assign textiles reversible change in ownership of color. 5) Use of conductive materials applied to the fibers / filaments / yarns, woven and nonwoven fabrics, in order to produce electrically conductive textile materials. 6) Use of piezoelectric material applied to the fibers / filaments / yarns, fabrics and nonwovens, aiming at producing capable textiles of generating an electrical signal due to a mechanical stimulus and vice versa (piezoactive). 7) Use of auxetics materials applied to the fibers / filaments / yarns, fabrics and nonwovens, in order to impart textile materials, the property of expanding its cross section when pulled lengthwise (negative Poisson's ratio). 8) Use of metamaterials applied to the fibers / filaments / yarns, fabrics and nonwovens, aiming at giving to the textile materials to camouflage property, invisibility and microscopy super-resolution (Negative Refractive Index). 9) Use of metamaterials, applied to chemical inputs, aiming at giving to the textile materials to camouflage property, invisibility and microscopy super-resolution (Negative Refractive Index). 10) Use of recycled materials, applied to the production of fibers / filaments / yarns, fabrics and nonwovens, aimed at recovery and reuse of discarded materials as a source of raw material for the manufacture of differentiated and innovative textiles. 11) Use of Biotechnology applied to the biosynthesis of plant and animal biomass, aimed at producing biodegradable and renewable fibers. 12) Use of Biotechnology (fermentation), applied to the cultivation of cellulose nanofibers, in order to produce leather or vegetal textile, flexible and biodegradable with technical applications. 13) Use of carbon nanotubes applied to the yarn coating, in order to make them materials able to store, carry and generate energy. 14) Use of natural dyes, applied to electrical conductive elastomeric fibers in order to produce folding photovoltaic textiles (organic solar cells that convert the photon energy into electrical energy). SPINNING PROCESSES 15) Use of electrospinning, applied to the manufacture of nanofibers order to produce functional textile material (such as affinity membranes, filtration media, dressings, drug delivery, chemical / biological protective clothing, sensors, composite reinforcement). 16) Use of gel spinning, applied to the production of fibers with high levels of macromolecular orientation, aiming at giving high performance properties. 17) Use of magnetospinning, applied to the manufacture of nanofibers in order to produce functional textile material (such as affinity membranes, filtration media, bandages, drug delivery, chemical / biological protective clothing, sensors). 18) Use of Genetic Engineering, applied to Bombyx Mori (silkworm), to produce artificial silk filament with physical properties of spider silk significantly improved (artificial spider web production). 19) Use of co-extrusion, applied to the manufacture of multicomponent filaments to promote combined functional properties (due to the combination of the properties of their base polymers). 20) Use of virtual simulation systems, applied to the yarns forming processes to simulate its physical and mechanical properties and guide the quick setup of the machines involved in the manufacture of such products. WEAVING, KNITTING AND NONWOVEN FORMING PROCESSES 21) Use of nanofibers, applied to the production of fabrics and nonwovens, in order to produce textile materials with advanced functional properties (such as controlled release of drugs, chemical and biological protection, electrical conductivity, thermal regulation, etc.). 22) Use of high-performance fibers, applied to the production of fabrics and nonwovens, in order to produce textile materials with advanced functional properties. 23) Use of 3D weaving technology (multilayer), applied to the production of textiles, to manufacture three-

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dimensional textile structures used as preforms for the production of composite materials. 24) 3D printer use, applied to the production of textile structures, aiming to use new materials for the manufacture of technical fabrics. 25) Use of Technology Seamless, applied to the design and manufacture of knitted fabrics, in order to produce faster garments with different performance in various dimensions and ready for use. 26) Use of virtual simulation systems, applied to woven and nonwoven forming processes, aiming to simulate the physical and mechanical properties of multifunctional textile structures and guide the quick setup of the machines involved in the manufacture of such products. CHEMICAL INPUTS AND FINISHING PROCESSES 27) Use of functional nanomaterials applied to chemical inputs, aiming to give specific features to textile materials. 28) Use of the plasma applied to the textile surface finishing process, to change the physical properties of the textile material surface (hyperfunctional surfaces). 29) Use of lamination technology, applied to the production of two-dimensional textile laminated, to impart specific features to textile materials (from the combination of one or more textile substrates with a preformed polymeric film). 30) Use of coating technology applied to the processing of textiles, in order to confer specific features to textile materials (from the direct application of viscous polymeric liquid). 31) Use of microencapsulation methods, applied to the production of chemical inputs, aiming to functionalize textile substrates for controlled release of substances with lasting effect. 32) Use of the electrodeposition technique, applied to the finishing process to apply functionalization textile agents in localized areas and efficiently. 33) Use in situ polymer deposition technique, in the finishing process to apply more evenly and accurately textile functionalization agents. 34) Use ultrasound technology, applied to finishing processes at the nanoscale (nanodyeing, nanoprint, nanofinishing), to impart specific features to textile materials. 35) Use of laser, applied to the textile finishing process to expand and improve the functionalization processes of textile surfaces. 36) Use of inkjet printing technology, applied to the finishing process, to improve the hability of applying a variety of functional fluids in discrete amounts of one side of the fabric. 37) Use of lenticular effect technology, applied to textile finishing, in order to produce textiles with optical effects (zoom effect, 3D and motion picture). 38) Use of electroluminescence, applied to textile dyes, aimed at producing textiles with innovative light emission features. TECHNOLOGICAL MACRO TRENDS 39) Use of Information and Communication Technology (ICT) applied to the development of flexible devices, to obtain smart textiles (capable of responding to environmental stimuli and interact with their users). 40) Use of nanotechnology applied to materials / processes / textile products in order to obtain products with advanced features and various applications. 41) Use of biomimicry concept, applied to the development of solutions in the area of TT in order to obtain products with differentiated performance. 42) Use of Ecodesign concept, applied to the development of solutions in the area of TT, to obtain products and processes that impact less the environment.

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