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Teodora Nicolae Marketing Manager – Fashion & Apparel

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Teodora NicolaeMarketing Manager – Fashion & Apparel

FROM SUPPY-CHAIN TO DEMAND-CHAIN: New Industry Opportunities and the Growing On-Demand + Personalization Trend

WHYCAREabout on-demandand personalization?

BECAUSEYOURCUSTOMERSCARE.

THE INDUSTRY IS….

C H A N G I N G S O P H I S T I C AT E D FA S T

U N D E R P R E S S U R E P E R S O N A L I Z E D T E C H & D ATA D R I V E N

THE NEWCONSUMER

DIGITAL, MOBILE, SOCIAL MEDIA

LOW BRAND LOYALTY

QUALITY vs QUANTITY

SEE NOW, BUY NOW

ULTIMATE EXPERIENCE

PERSONALIZED BRAND RELATIONSHIP

SUSTAINABILITY & ETHICS

UNIQUEPERSONALIZED

FAST

TRANSPARENT

HIGH QUALITY

MEANINGFUL

strictly confidential

The move towards more ethical and responsible consumption

C are f o r p rod uct

( o r i g i n )

C a re fo r p l a net

C are fo r p eop l e

( s u p p l y c h a i n t r a n s p a r e n c y )

C are fo r f ab r i c

C are fo r p r i ce

( l e s s b u t b e t t e r )

strictly confidential

E v e r y y e a r a r o u n d

1 00 b i l l i on i tems o f c l o t h i n g a r e b e i n g p r o d u c e d

A r o u n d 80 bi l l ion a r e

b e i n g p u r c h a s e d

M o r e t h a n 10% go stra ight to

landf i l l a f t e r e a c h s e a s o n

b e c a u s e w h a t i s m a d e i s n o t

t a i l o r e d t o w h a t c u s t o m e r s w a n t

T h e Av e r a g e U . S

c i t i z e n throws away 81

pounds o f c l o t h i n g e a c h y e a r.

O n l y 1 5 % g e t s d o n a t e d o r

r e c y c l e d

85% goes into landf i l l

Source: : Fung Business Intelligence; Greenpeace

SUPPLY-FIRST = SO. MUCH. WASTE.

A NEWWAY TODO BUSINESS

FROM "TAKE-MAKE-DISPOSE“TO TAILORED TO WHAT CONSUMERS WANT

1990B2B model

1998B2C model

NOWC2B model

P r o d u c t i o n

C r e a t i o n

C o c r e a t i o n

SUPPLY, THEN DEMAND

TRYING TO PREDICT THE UNPREDICTABLE…

RISKY

EXPENSIVE

WASTEFUL

STATIC

$300 billion= U.S. retail’s stock-out and overstock losses

40%= Brands’ losses in markdowns due to long lead times from offshore suppliers

SO WHO ARE THE RETAIL WINNERS?

THOSE WHO BUILD A FASTER, MORE FLEXIBLE SUPPLY CHAIN.

test model – for the riskiest products

read & react – for new and untested products

express cycle – for new in-season products

short-lead - for the core seasonal collection.

long-lead - for basics

SMALL BATCH PRODUCTION TECHNOLOGIES AND MORE PERSONALIZED MEDIA ARE CREATING AN

EXPECTATION FOR PERSONALIZATION

Source: Trends hunter “Mega trends” report

T h e m a r k e t

i s m a t u r e a n d d y n a m i c e n o u g h

T h e c o n s u m e r

v o i c e f o r f e e l i n g u n i q u e ,

c o l l a b o r a t e , c h a n g e t h i n g s i s l o u d e n o u g h

B r a n d s a n d R e t a i l e r s

n e e d t h e n e w b r e a t h t o s u r v i v e

( g a i n c u s t o m e r a c q u i s i t i o n ,

l o y a l t y , m o r e m a r g i n s )

T h e Te c h n o l o g y

i s e v o l v i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y

S t i l l c h a l l e n g e d b y s c a l a b l e ,

t i m e l y p r o d u c t i o n

strictly confidential

cost per unit

COST PER UNIT SOLD.

strictly confidential

Ability to produce/test a larger variety of styles

Reduced risk of overstock and lower rates of markdowns

Eliminate inventory and lower cost of storage/warehousing

Lower up-front monetary investments, freed up cash flow

Faster replenishment / re-orders, ability to respond to consumer demand quickly

CLOSER RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CONSUMERS AND BRANDS

morecustomer

DATAbrand loyalty

meaningful products = less waste

The ability to create personalized products is becoming a source of differentiation.

Personal izat ion

t he a b i l i t y fo r b ra nds to de l i ve r

pe r s ona l i zed p roduc t s a t s ca l e i s

s e t as a ma j o r g row th d r i v e r a s w e l l a s a s t rong

comp et i t i v e ad v antag e

Source: Euromonitor International, 2018

strictly confidential

BENEFITS OFON-DEMAND +CUSTOMIZATION

WHATDOES THEINDUSTRY REALLY THINK?

Lanieri US Fashiontech Insights - 2017

CO

NS

UM

ER

S

YouGOV 2018: Made to Order: An analysis of US consumer perception towards personalization

CO

NS

UM

ER

S

CO

NS

UM

ER

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The Deloitte Consumer Review // Made-to-Order: The Rise of Mass Personalization

THE STATE OF FASHION 2019: ON-DEMAND

MC

KIN

SE

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BoF-McKinsey Global Fashion survey 2019

According to recent survey results published by McKinsey, The State of Fashion 2019,60% of apparel

procurement executives expect that over 20 percent of their sourcing volume will be from nearshore by 2025.

MC

KIN

SE

Y

BoF-McKinsey Global Fashion survey 2019

MC

KIN

SE

Y“Small-scale players will likely lead the way, while larger brands pilot in selected markets. We expect rising take up of on-demand will lead to a spike in personalization, and a new generation of customized clothing start-ups, creating a new definition of “made-to-measure.”

ES

TD

. B

RA

ND

S

ES

TD

. B

RA

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EW

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N “ The demand for and accessibility of made-to-measure brands has grown over the past few years, but the past 12 months have seen something of a boom. In fact, three new brands in this space — SuitKits, Careste and Red Thread — simultaneously launched in October (2018).”

- Fashionista, December 2018

LE

CT

RA

+ S

J

fashion brand (35%) supplier (19%) retailer (16%)

apparel (82%) accessories (40%) footwear (29%)

textiles (24%)

decision makers influencers44.5% 50%

In what ways is your company moving from a supply chain to a demand chain? (please select all that apply)

49.2% - Creating smaller production runs to read and react to the market

42.0% - Working with factories with quick turn capabilities

37.7% - Creating products closer to market

32.6% - Digitizing to shorter product development time

23.7% - Platforming raw materials

17.4% - Opting to air goods rather than ship

12.7% - None of the above / other

10.6% - Don’t know

If your company or your supplier(s) is planning to make investments or currently doing so, which areas are you/they focused on specifically? (please check all that apply)

61.9% - PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT TOOLS

42.0% - FACTORIES

35.8% - PLM

35.2% - NEW PRODUCTION SOFTWARE

34.7% - LOGISTICS

24.4% - CUTTING ROOM TOOLS

How would you characterize your factories’ ability to produce to demand and/or customize products?

36.0% - THEY ARE EXPLORING WAYS TO UPDATE THEIR OPERATIONS

28.8% - WE HAVE NO INDICATION THAT IT IS ON THEIR RADAR

17.8% - THEY OFFER THIS CAPABILITY CURRENTLY

11.9% - THEY ARE NOT CAPABLE OF WORKING THIS WAY AND LIKELY NEVER WILL BE

5.5% - THEY ARE BRINGING THE NECESSARY MACHINERY AND TOOLS ONLINE SOON

Mass customization is:

42.7% - Necessary but only for certain product categories

29.7% - Essential in order to remain competitive in the future

14.3% - Nice to have but not essential to business

13.3% - The direction the industry is headed in

57.8% - 2 to 5 YEARS

37.0% - 4 to 5 YEARS

22.4% - 6 to 9 YEARS

20.8% - 2 to 3 YEARS

15.9% - 6 to 7 YEARS

6.5% - 8 to 9 YEARS

12.7% - 10 or more YEARS

Mass customization and made-to-measure will be mainstream, common offerings in the next:

Which area would need the most innovation in order to deliver on mass customization and made-to-measure?

45.4% - Production / assembly

25.5% - Patternmaking

10.3% - Sampling

13.3% - Other

5.0% - Cutting

2.1% - Order tracking

What has your company done so far to implement a mass customization business model?

34.9% - We have identified manufacturing facilities that are set up to work in this manner

27.1% - We are investing in product development software

24.0% - We have determined how to make this a profitable part of our business

14.0% - We are investing in our factory partners to get them up to speed

What is keeping your company from being more agile in its product development and production processes?

“Factory partners with true experience and highly skilled workers to accomplish on demand customized production. This is because we are focused on US production too. “

“Factory capabilities, re-orderable trim and fabric, financial investments in logistics and product development.”

“Business habits that were once profitable.”

“Our domestic (USA) production does not have the expertise.”

“Factories attitude towards change from bulk production to cutting/making small runs. Jeans & Tees are the easier ones to make. Factory attitude has to change first.”

“Factories set in their ways”

“Access to manufacturing.”

“Finding a manufacturer who will create MTM garments.”

What is keeping your company from being more agile in its product development and production processes?

“Factories in Los Angeles struggle to compete on cost against offshore factories. So having a more agile system, where they can easily make small runs and customized products, would give them a strong competitive advantage. But good luck getting them to believe this or adapt!”

“Most factories struggle with the changing demands of smaller units quicker turn not to mention one off units.”

“This is all about Mass styles and Small Production.”

The factories have to develop the flexible sample lines in order to be flexible on the variety of the products with small volume.”

“We follow what the manufacturing industry dictates. There is no investment into modernizing factories when it comes to a new approach - other than regarding the topic of sustainability.”

“Priorities & finding the right manufacturing partner to reach scalbility”

TAP INTOOPPORTUNITY

OFFER VALUE ADDED SERVICES THAT ALLOW BRANDS & RETAILERS TO:

be more agile be more responsive (read & react) balance supply with real demand reduce returns improve quality become more sustainable improve cash flow scale current made-to-measure and custom offers

strictly confidential

START A NEW LINE

TEST NEWBUSINESS MODEL

SMALL SERIES

SAMPLING

TEST NEW STYLES

LOCAL-TO-LOCALQUICK REPLENISHMENT

SUSTAINABILITY

and more…

NOT JUST PERSONALIZATION…

TECHNOLOGYIS MAKINGTHIS POSSIBLE.

HOW? Through true, end-to-end process automation and removal of non-value added manual tasks.

PROFITABLE & FASTON-DEMAND / PERSONALIZED PRODUCT

strictly confidential

AUTOMATION

CLOUD TECHNOLOGY

and more…

VISIBILITY

STREAMLINED DATA FLOW

COLLABORATION

CUSTOMERORDER

(shop/online)

APIAUTOMATIC

ORDER PROCESSING

AUTOMATION OF

PRODUCTION RULES

AUTOMATIC MARKER

MAKING

AUTOMATIC NESTING

AUTOMATIC CUTTING JOB

PROCESSING

AUTOMATED EXECUTION of

CUTTING

EMBEDDED KNOW-HOW

Q&A

TEODORA NICOLAEMarketing Manager – Fashion & Apparel

[email protected]

For more information on how Lectra can help with on-demand and personalization, please get in touch: